Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Car_Man
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What is the depreciation and money factor for a 2002 Jetta GLS 4DR w/Automatic for 4 years and 15,000 miles a year?
Thanks Car_Man
Anyone heard of a program like this? I would assume you would have to stay with a Toyota so there's one catch, but wouldn't you have to pay all the early term fees and pay off the lease???
Also, anyone have the 2002 Sequoia SR5 2WD money factors and residuals? (That's what I had been inquiring about)
Thanks in advance.
Leasing for 5 years is just nuts. The point of leasing is that you get new cars all the time, and are never out of warranty.
Can you please run 36 month/15k miles numbers on the A4 1.8T, without quattro. Looking for numbers on both the 2001 and 2002 models. Thanks.
1) Last lease we got into we were unsure of the itemization which was the following
Gross Cap - 19,496.99 I understood this
Cap Cost Reduc - 1,800.00 My "down payment"
Adj Cap - 17,696.99 OK so far
Resid Value - 13,315.20 OK
Deprec and any Amortized Amounts - 4,381.79 OK
Then there is RENT CHARGE of 3,070.20 Car Man, was this the money rate factor amount?
Finally, Total of Base Mo Payments - 7,452.00
Lease Payment for 36 mo was $207.00
This for a $20,500 MSRP 99 Accord LX 4door 4cyl
Was I hosed?
On a different note, lease is up and we are looking at a 2002 Nissan Xterra V6 4wd XE MSRP around $27K. Looking at a Cap Reduc around $1,500 and lets say I get the dealer at a Capitalized Cost of $25,500.00. Do you then add tax onto this and that is you Final Cap cost? Any idea on what a 36 mo lease payment would be?
Finally, if we plan to buy the truck at the end of 36 months, are we fools and it would be best to just buy and finance the vehicle. I would rather use the large downpayment to knock out some CC debt. Thanks in advance.
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Car_Man - thanks for the info and I will let you know if I see anything different.
Do you have any information on Money Factors and Residuals for a 48 month lease on a Jaguar 3.0 X-Type.
Thanks in advance for your help!
-SSB
Also, as far as negotiating a lease, I know that we should negotiate the price of the car as if we were paying cash for it and then tell the dealer we are leasing. Is the dealer then supposed to determine the money factor and residual value from the agreed-upon purchase price? It seems as if the dealers are non-negotiable on lease rates and both the GMC dealer that we spoke to about a Yukon and the Toyota dealer (Sequoia) were speaking in terms of 48-month leases. How would we negotiate an extended warranty to cover the full 48 months if we were to go with a 48 month lease?
Is there any advantage to financing separately through a bank rather than the manufacturer/dealership financing?
And, lastly, could you please tell me what the money factors and residual values are for the GMC Yukon and the Toyota Sequoia? Thank you so much!
more research on leasing. I love the pathfinder. Could you give me a very basic "watered-down" sample for a 2001 or 2002 Pathfinder. If I was to buy, I do have $9000 from the sale of my 96 accord. Here's my thought; I can bank my profit and get a better suv for less p/month. Thanks for any info! PS--I'm not sure what some of figures for leasing mean--Is there a FAQ section? thanks again, Maureen
1) Toyota Motor Credit generally bases their residuals on BASE MSRPs, not TOTAL MSRPs.
If it helps, they often have pretty high residuals... They dont residualize options for some pretty good reasons. There are many expensive options that simply add next to nothing to a car's actual lease-end worth onthe wholesale market (CHrome Wheels, Navigation, Premium Stereos, Roof Racks, etc..).
2) TMCC Does not include GAP in their leases. However, they have an acquisition fee that's usually hundreds lower than other captive finance companies. GAP shouldnt cost much over $250 or so.
Sort of like one dealer being at $19,000 on a car with a $500 Dealer Prep fee, and another being at $19,500 without a dealer prep fee.
Same difference.
Bill
He's a finance mgr at a Toyota store and is a straight shooter.
Also, its not to the dealer's benefit to reduce the resiual.. nothing in it for us, also, they cant change residuals.
Bill
Here's another data point for you. As it happens, I signed Highlander lease yesterday (LA area). MSRP of $29,638 (4x2 V6 w/DR SR TO AG CQ HE CF RF). Agreed-to price was about $3K off MSRP. 3 yr lease/15,000 miles per year. Mo. pymt is about $460/mo, w/o tax; pymt includes GAP. Driveoffs included 1st payment and $250 acquisition fee. No down, of course. I think we did OK. (I didn't do as well as your quoted money factor, for example...but it wasn't a deal-breaker, given the vehicle price.)
Residual in my contract is same as quoted to you to the penny: $16,051. Like you, I was surprised that it was lower than stated here by car man. But, after pressing the point, I was satisfied with the dealer's explanation, and we knew from other leases that, as Bill says, there's no incentive or benefit to dealer to use lower residuals. So, since we were happy with the deal, we went for it.
Hope this helps.
Depending on the area .. JM and the rest of the world ..l..o..l.. most of the options are actually - dealer accesories- .. things like roof racks, fog lamps , keyless, carpets, cd swith-outs etc. .. and on most of the Corolla CE's ..cruise.
So by the time things are added, they just don't "residualize".. and the dealer is actually losing money ...
Terry.
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Thanks for your response. I called the dealer over the weekend and he quoted the same money factor you gave me, but a residual of 51% (not 54%) for the 4 year, 10K mile/yr option. The numbers on the 15K were the same as yours.
Do you think he is playing games with me?
Thanks again for your help!
-SSB
The price that you agree to for your new truck should have absolutely nothing to do with its lease money factors and residual values. Of course, if you negotiate a skinny deal on your vehicle's price your dealer may try to mark up your lease money factor to bake additional profit into your deal. If that happens though and you are aware of it, you can usually get them to use the base rate by threatening to take your business elsewhere. You can lease your next vehicle for 48 months if you would like, but 36 month leases are usually the best deals from the standpoint that this is where most manufacturers usually provide lease support if there is any and the fact that your vehicle will be fully covered by your manufacturer's warranty for the duration of your term. If you want an extended warranty to cover you for the duration of your 4 year lease, that can be negotiated as a separate transaction. Manufacturers' captive finance companies usually provide the most attractive leases on supported vehicles. However, on unsupported models, like the Sequoia, it is entirely possible that some independent banks out there have better programs running on it than Toyota Financial Services. I would be happy to provide you with detailed information on what the lease programs for the GMC Yukon and the Toyota Sequoia should be like right now, but first I am going to need a little additional information from you, such as the length of the lease that you would like, the number of miles per year that you will need, and these vehicle's exact trim levels.
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Professorsnape, I wish you great luck and lots of fun with your new truck! Thanks for your help.
Is it always a good idea to put down as much as possible in the case of a lease? For a purchase I can see you might want to put down as much as possible since you basically increase your equity in the car but in the case of a lease...? Say I am leasing a $22000 car and I sell my current one for $4000. Is it wise to put all $4K as cap reduction (meaning that this money is now gone forever) or is it best to just pay drive off costs and put the rest in a mutual fund?
If it makes a difference, the car I am looking for is an '02 VW Passat - 48mos / 15km lease - 54% residual - .0020 money factor
Any help would be appreciated.
If I simply let my lease run out, I am concerned that if I lease a VW and not another Honda, that I will have to pay for every little thing wrong with the Honda at lease end. The car is low mileage and is in good condition, but it's still something I think about. (I didn't have to pay for anything on my '97 Civic, but I leased another one.) If I do the trade-in, will I have to worry about that sort of thing?
Could you please find out what the residual and money factor is on the following vehicles for 36 months/12,000 miles per year and 48 months/12,000 miles per year:
GMC Yukon 2WD and 4WDSLT with third-row seat and running boards.
Toyota Sequoia SR5 2WD and 4WD with preferred package, alloy wheel package, remote keyless entry, roof rack, side&head airbags.
I'm in Central Ohio if this matters.
Thank you so much!
Also, what is the current residual and money factor offered by DC for an '02 Dodge Caravan (SWB) Sport, for 48 months and 12k miles?
Thanks.
I know there have been quite a few Passat requests lately, but I wanted to get the latest data from you.
I'm comparing the following variants of Passat Sedans for a 3 year/15k lease.
2002 GLS-1.8T (Lux. pkg, Leather, Tip)
2002 GLS V6 (Lux. pkg, Tip)
2002 GLX
Could you please provide your latest November residuals/money factors for these vehicles.
Also, I've noticed VW's money factor has been up/down on this vehicle the last 2 months (anywhere from .00164-.00225 based on earlier posts. Is it your belief that the money factor will drop after the recent Fed cut in rates, or do you believe the November rates will be fairly stable for the next 2 months?