Full Sized Vans

xfiles

Haven't heard from yu in a while.....Happy Easter!

How's things with your van? So far I am impressed by the lack of any mechanical defects in my Savana. Usually within the first 2 weeks of delivery I can hear or feel that something is not right and in need of repair. I doubt Toyota can match it (my other vehicles always had a few mechanical defects on delivery). Of course now that I mentioned it the whole vehicle will likely become unglued by tomorrow....LOL.

Love the seats, good support and they don't wobble in their tracks (when stopping and going) like I noticed with the 2001 Rams....hate that!

Good luck!

vguard

Just enjoying my full size van!

I just finished installing a cargo area floor tray. The company I buy from (Husky), did not make one "Econoline specific", so I purchased the new '00 Suburban version and trimmed it a little on the back side (it was 4" longer than I needed, but the width was perfect). Then I "tucked" the cut edge under the regular carpet trim piece and it looks like it was sold that way! Now my carpet in the cargo area is protected from the dogs, dirt, oil, kids, etc.

Have you figured out an easy way to wax the top of your van yet? I am leaning towards the "Nu-Finish" product just for use on the top. It is supposed to last almost a year (with 2 coats).

I have already waxed my van 3 times and only have 1600 miles on it. Boy does the water bead....lol

I know we discussed using synthetic oil, but what are your feelings on the synthetic transmission fluid from Mobile ?

Hope your enjoying your new toy...

xfiles

Your going to wear out that paint job with all that waxing, and likely your elbows. I mentioned in post #544 the easiest way I found to wash/wax the roof using an attachment on a broom handle. I don't mind washing the roof, but I don't think I will wax at all. I have never waxed any vehicle I have owned in at least 20 years. I prefer to take care of my body with oil spraying and I worry more about rust, and if the vehicle is a keeper after many years of driving I prefer a paint job. By then you have your share of door dings, scratches, etc and the vehicle is beyond waxing and in need of fresh paint to make it look good again. I might this time try it once, especially since you already did it 3 times (I figure I better not get to lazy). I've never been much on waxing, but I will make sure those chrome bumpers stay nice and new. Hey, did you get popeye forearms from all that waxing? If you really want to protect that vehicle get a lawn pesticide sprayer and fill it with "hydraulic oil" (add some WD-40 to thin it a bit if you need to). Then spray all around your wheel wells and lower areas of your body including the underside (cover the ground with cheap plastic sheeting from Home Depot). Also spray inside any tiny holes in doors and remove any plugs (or air vent covers found on insides of door pillars) to really soak the lower body interior panels with rust inhibiting agents found in this oil. Your body will look a lot better then wax alone will ever do for you. My 83 Tercel still has zero rust on it. I oil 2x per year (once per year is not enough I found). I had a small area with no paint along the lower body and even it never advanced (the metal just stays black ...meaning no rust advancement). Besides oil spraying is faster and a lot easier then waxing. Try it, your vehicles will last forever (don't park it on your concrete/asphalt driveway the first night as oil will be dripping out of the body panel holes).

I think the idea of synthetic oils for the tranny is a good one. The worse enemy for a tranny is heat, and regular oils break down quicker under heat. So if your towing I think it is especially good. More important though is not the type of oil used, but rather frequency of oil changes. Lot of people still believe you do not need to change tranny oil, and will drive it for the life of the vehicle without a tranny oil change. Guess that is why we have as many tranny shops as donut shops in my area. Change your oil at least somewhere in the 15-25,000 mile range, whatever you prefer (including filter). Likely with synthetic oil having reduced friction properties and having it in both the tranny and engine should improve mileage a bit I would think. I myself doubt I will use either since I have been able to get enough engine/tranny life on regular oil for the vehicles I have owned. I don't think oil alone will make a big difference in life of a vehicle (some but not a lot). More important issues in extending the life of a vehicle I have found are doing things like adjusting valves, timing to avoid pre-ignition (older engines), and correcting any pinging noises, bad hesitation problems,etc which produces a lot of stress and wear on an engine. My point is making sure the mechanical stuff is working right is more important then just the type of oil (although it is essential to have good oil and keep it full).

If you think you need to worry about oil think again, worry more about your gas. I was regularly going to Sunoca for my gas in my neighbourhood and coulnd't figure why I was always having a hesitation problem (didn't believe water could be the only cause). Finally I started seeing blue smoke coming out of my rear, and thought I needed another engine. Well, my friend brought his motorcycle in to the same place and on leaving noticed the same problem. SO I switched stations and the hesitation went away, and so did the blue smoke. In other words there was water, and that water I think likely caused enough rusting in the combustion chamber to cause a ring to stick and so it never was sealing right. Well, changing to another gas company with dry fuel helped that ring unseize and things returned to normal. The change was fast and obvious.

My point is worry less about the oil you use and more about the mechanical aspect. If the suspension has a unusual noise then fix it before it gets worse (eg- a bad ball joint will eventually put more stress and wear on other suspension components). If the engine hesitates badly, then fix it promptly before this added stress reduces rapidly the life of other engine components (rings, etc). Flush your cooling system yourself more frequently before you have a failing radiator or heater core from calcification(up to $1000 to replace if you want heat...lucky I did myself). So I feel any oil will do, but it will not replace taking care of the vehicle if you want to really extend it's life (mechanically and body if you oil it). By the way, I always add ONLY DISTILLED WATER to my coolant, the less calcification occuring inside the engine block, the better the transfer of heat away from the the engine block to the coolant to the radiator fan and to the air. The calcification on the block walls acts like insulation and the transfer of heat is reduced. It sure extends the life of the accessory components around the engine (like rad and heater core).

Well, thats my 2 cents worth on how to extend the life of Vguards full size passeneger van and mine which were not cheap to buy (LOL). Since they do not go through frequent model changes, it would be nice to extend the life of our vehicles....and worrying about type of oil used won't make a big difference how it will look or run 10 years from now.

Yup, sure am enjoying that new toy Vguard. Love the added space with the extended model. I liked what one friend of mine called it.....The U.S.S Savana , like a ship!

tdehoff1

I need advice. I am considering two Vans. One is a Chevy G20 with a 5.7 Liter and the other is a Ford E150 with a 5.0 liter. The reason I ask is that I pull a pop-up camper and a boat. The camper weighs around 2700lbs and the boat is 3500-4000lbs. I have always considered the 5.7 liter a necessary item to pull these two items. However, the Ford has 44,000 less miles on it and is in a little better condition. The burning question I have is this? Will I regret having a 5 liter engine in the Ford? I currently own a Chevy with a 5.7 liter but its wore out and its time to trade.

jtm2127

I have a 1991 E350 club wagon - no air in the back, just heat. Does anyone know how much it would be to add it? Is there an alternative that is cheaper such as a roof mount third party product. all info appreciated.

xfiles

That sounds like an expensive upgrade. Adding air later is never easy, and adding rear air will be tougher. Your talking adding rear vents, a larger alternator (with rear air they come with 130 amp alternators on my GMC 2001). To supply the rear with cold air your going to also need a larger compressor (bet there not cheap), larger evaporator coils (ripping out dash), etc. Your then going to have to consider extra controls to seperate the front from the rear air ....sounds like a lot of trouble for an older van. Worse yet, you better hope the wiring harnesses are available (mine wasn't for the Tercel) and hope you take into account every other little thing. Read the factory shop manual from the dealer to make sure you know what your getting into.

Considering the tight space under the hood of a full size van, adding all the a/c lines will be labour intensive and costly. It's one thing to add it at the factory, quite another to do it later on. I tried adding air to my tercel many years ago, and got nailed by a lack of a wiring harness and a vacuum bracket (hard to find). This is one option you want from the factory, not later as a add on. I doubt there are after market units for the rear either (front yes), and I hear they are never as good. Ask the dealer, bet he says forget it. If it's a cargo van, adding the rear unit may be a bit easier (no vent problems), but all the other problems still exist.

The option of adding a roof a/c unit would be a LOT easier because it is entirely self contained. I have talked to RV dealers before and they all said back then that all Coleman and other brands run off electricity only. HOwever in my research I had found a company that allowed their unit to run off electricity OR propane. Can't remember the brand name, but it sure would make life a lot easier.

Good luck!

llamero

I've got an 83 Dodge Ram beast and would love to either squeeze in a 3rd seat in front or put in a bench with 3 belts. Any suggestions about where to find a seat? I haven't found a shop that does this in the Seattle area. Any ideas?

sreidvt

Husky, Weathertech, etc. don't seem to make HD floor mats for the full-sized dodge vans. I'm looking for a front mat set for a 2000 RAM 3500. Please e-mail any suggestions to me directly at sreid@sover.net

Thanks

ryaj12

This may help sreidvt, and anyone else interested in van floor mats. It's what I did for my 2001 E-350 7-passenger Chateau (gray interior).

First I went to Pep Boys and bought seven small 13-3/4 by 16-1/4 inch generic black rubber floor mats that have carpet rippers on the bottom. I think they were 3.99 each. I placed two on the driver's floor, two on the front passenger's floor, one each between the front and 2nd row bucket seats, and the seventh adjacent to the 3rd row bench seat at the entry way. There was no cutting involved. They are pliable enough to arrange them in front on the floor and up where your feet rest.

For the 2nd and 3rd row seats floors, I went to Home Depot and bought four charcoal Apache Mills brand "Gatekeeper" 18 by 27 inch carpeted rubber door mats, #76-080-7003. They also have carpet rippers on the bottom. They are an exact fit and no cutting is involved. They cost 9.95 each.

For the rear cargo area, also at Home Depot, I bought 4 lineal feet of charcoal Apache Mills "Scrape & Fri" commercial carpeted vinyl backed runner, SKI #357-140, from a 4-foot-wide roll. It costs 5.69 per LF. It does not have carpet rippers.

I have about 95% coverage, it looks very professional, and suits my needs exactly. It may not work for muddy off-road users. However, everything can be taken out, washed and dried.

ryaj12

The spell check didn't do what I thought it did.

jtm2127

Hi - I have a 91 e350 and would like to retrofit the ac and can't seem to find the low-end port. The high is very obvious (right side under hood) Please help

5happycampers

I have come accross a nifty plastic "box" which is attached onto a metal plate which in turn slips into an installed trailer hitch. They look like they would be fine for my problem of too much stuff in my Ram 1500 conversion. Camping gear would go into this box.
Anyone had experince with these? Safe? Robust? I know that some telescop and swing out of the way of the rear doors. Does it really work? Your help is much appreciated for our trip across the USA!!

THanks and happy trails.

drew_

Hey guys, did you see this post?
vivhoward "Full-size conversion vans" Jun 7, 2001 12:30pm


Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

xfiles

That is what you call one major roof leak!

A photo of it should be sent in to the manufacturer, and another placed in here. Maybe then they will start manufacturing quality vehicles.

mrnimmo

I've never even heard of anything like that. In fact, I am a bit skeptical. Wonder how all the mounting screws came out, and why it happened when it did.

In my younger days when I was a paramedic, I saw two vans that had rolled: another ambulance and a hightop conversion van. Both hightops survived the rolling, but, admittedly, and ambulance top is much more reinforced than a cheapo conversion. I guess those were mounted better than this guys "Quality" conversion top.

Still don't like hightops, much though. Higher cost, less safe, real ugly.

vivhoward

Well, my sentiments exactly. My family have had conversion vans (3 Dodge, this is the first GM), for the past 15 years and never have we heard or seen the roof come off. This is a situation where freak' is the word. I am just thankful that even though it was the Memorial Day weekend, the traffic on 295 was light. Can you imagine what would have happen if that roof had hit another vehicle? The sad thing is we didn't even have a leak before this incident. My neighbor owns a Ford high top and it was leaking around the seals. I am just trying to understand this, because it has traumatized my children. How will I be able to get them to ride in this vehicle again without the fear of the roof coming off?

vguard

vguard

drew_

xfiles

So far got 2160 miles on it, and the oil consumption seems good.....at least it is not a lemon (less then 1/3 liter used so far).

Interesting information though on break-in from the GMC manuals I bought from the dealer (about 8 inches high....yikes) for the Savana. From the Shop Manual>>

OIL CONSUMPTION DIAGNOSIS:
"Excessive oil consumption (not due to leaks)
is the use of 1 liter (1 quart) of engine oil
within 2000 miles. However, during initial
engine break-in periods (3000-4000 miles), oil
consupmtion may exceed 1 liter or more."

Souce: GMC 2001 Savana/Express Shop Manual, Book
1 of 3, Chapter 6, pg 365.

So comments like "what break-in"?, and 700 miles per quart is "normal" is incorrect, at least with the GMC full size vans. If you got a problem, I think purchasing a manual to confirm things is in order. This can be useful in court if your unfortunate enough to get a bad vehicle.

I have one problem developing (rotational type grind) when I make left and right turns. So far too infrequent to be able to diagnose it, even the dealer was not lucky to reproduce it. So I will wait till it fails a little more or falls off...LOL! I don't expect a perfect vehicle, just a good tranny/engine....the rest are no big deal to fix.

I packed it with two Trojan 105 true deep cell Golf Cart batteries, TV/VCR, Coleman fridge, and some other toys. I got enough juice to last me about 7-9 nights camping in my steel leakproof tent(3-4 hours per night of TV viewing). So it will be great on short/med photo trips. Later I will be doing more extensive work adding more goodies to the rear space. That 12 feet of rear space is going fast (2500 extended), might just want a trailer soon or a "add a trunk" supported by the trailer hitch. LOL! A travel trailer would be nice, but then how do you tow a boat?

Hey, how is your oil consumption? Wheels not falling off, eh? Just kiddin! Also how is your gas mileage?

So far I took the average over several tanks of gas and computed an average of 17 miles per gallon (Cdn) averaging city and hiway on the 5.7L engine, 3.73 axle. That computes to about 15mpg US, which is about what I expected. From all my readings most averaged 17 mpg (US gal) on hiway.
After break in I expect 20 mpg CDN(hiway),and the window sticker had said 22 mpg CDN.....so I am satisfied there are no major problems. One person in here was getting 13 mpg US for hiway driving! I feel fortunate.

Well, See yu soon, I'm off on a 2 week trip, and will see how it holds up. The rear air sure is NICE!~

drew_

Did you all check out Edmunds' review of the '01 GMC Savana SLT? It does explain why most auto magazines don't have reviews of full-size vans. They're not in the press fleet!

http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/spin/46527/article.html

Enjoy!

Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

voytec

Hi, I am a newbie in full size vans world, as well as in US - I just "accidentally" anchored in midwest due to a recent marriage with a charming Yank Girl. In last 5 years I was living on yachts and sailed around the world. To continue a bit of the old life style while being "anchored/grounded/married" I decided to have a yacht on wheels - a full size van. This always was unimaginable dream in Europe for me - extra taxes for big engines and gasoline prices of $3.20 to $4.20 per gallon were the reason.
I am in love in driving along American side roads since 98 when I did Seattle - San Diego - Seattle trip. Over 6000 miles and no more than 10% of it on highways. Big country with big cars and looooong roads... For an European with an explorers soul it is like playing Columbus. My wife loves to travel around with me so having our own bedroom on wheels will cut down our hotel bills.
After checking and seeing many (~20)used converted vans in our price range I am ready to buy 1991 Ford E150 conversion van with 91000 miles on it. Price: $4900. I checked Carfax record - clean, two previous owners, I had 30 miles test drive, I had it checked by independent mechanic and it is the best looking and driving vehicle from all I have seen.
It is white (what I wanted, does not overheat in the sun).
It is a high top conversion (wanted it too we are both quite tall).
It has a big V8 351 engine - I believe it is longer lasting than small V6.
It has a rear A/C, TV/VCR, Captain chairs, power bed, locks, windows and very clean interior.
It has almost no exterior rust.
It has wide alloy wheels with wide "sporty" tires - I don't like that.
It has almost brand new looking brake system - including drums, and front discs.
Exhaust system looks very good.
The water pump looks almost new - nice and shiny.
Shocks are still good and not leaking but they may be still original ones.
The only points I found suspicious - a small leak from the rear end shaft seal at the differential and corroded oil pan (a future danger) are just being corrected by the dealer at his cost.

THE BIG QUESTION to Experienced FSV users : is it a sound deal? What I had overlooked? This is my first car purchase in US... I read most of the posts in this message board and I don't think that there is any BIG difference between main 3 van producers... It is like a discussion between Volvo, Mercedes and BMW users in Europe... they are all OK but appeal to different tastes.

I can sign a deal for Service contract with PWI www.warrantys.com 24month/30000 miles is extra $800 at the moment of purchase. It sounds to good to be true, almost like a new car warranty in "Plus" plan. Anybody here with experience hoe to interpret a clause " ...service contract does not cover repairs or replacements resulting from defects, damage or deterioration due to normal use, wear and tear..."
I am (like anybody else in the world) always afraid os small print clauses - on the other hand even a small repair in a van can be costly. Please advice me about purchasing the extra service contract.

I will be very obliged for any opinions. This is the only messageboard for full size vans I can find on the Web. There are many for trucks but vans seem to be less popular.

Voytec

suvshopper4

Normal wear and tear items would be belts, tires, etc. You should be covered if your engine or transmissions quits on you. $800 for 2 years coverage sounded high to me, but then I remembered it is a 10-year-old van. I have had 4 full-size Dodge vans, and I think that the Fords are good too (both better than GM).

$4,900 does not seem like a lot for a full-size van with 91k miles, if everything is presentable and in working order (like the rear a/c). I am guessing that the dealer was asking more; if not, he may come down. I don't think there is a lot of demand for a conversion van that is over 50k miles and, say, $3,000. I sold mine last year, and it was difficult.

If you and your mechanic like the vehicle, and the $800 service contract seems reasonable to you, go for it. It is always a bit of a risk buying a used vehicle, no way around that.

Good luck. Happy highway yachting.

ejp

wrainey

I bought the subject van when we adopted 5 foster siblings who joined our existing family of 4. I have had several serious problems with the van and have since written to Daimler-Chrysler and sworn that neither I or my children would ever spend another penny on anything from them. At 35,000 miles the A/I compressor failed which they said would be fixed under warranty. Well, by the time the part was available on back-order (6 months later), the vehicle had 50,000 miles and they insisted that I pay a $100 deductible on the A/I work. At the same time the right wheel hub assembly failed which cost me $475 for both sides. Then 2 months later the right Control Arm failed which cost me $1100.00 for both sides to be replaced ($377 parts). I have been told by 2 local garages that the A/I and Control Arm problems are common for the larger Dodge RAM Vans, and that the A/I compressor problem is so prevalent that they don't have the parts available. I notice that the A/I compressor problem seems to be commonly reference in the Town Hall as well.

vguard

When I began my search for a full size van in January, I could not get a Dodge salesman interested in dealing with me. When I said "full-size van", you would have thought I said "I have no money".....Since they did not stock the full-size van, they had no interest in helping me buy one.

I ended up with a Ford full-size van, and even then, I suspect it is only because I found a Ford dealer with one on the lot.

I am glad I ended up with the Ford however. I really enjoy the room it gives my family of 5.

Perhaps you should consider trading...

vguard

pogito

My friend bought Ford Eco. 150 1994 Van with 7 passengers seat. It has now about 60k miles. We wonder if this van has timing belt or timing chain.
Also what is the proper octane rating for this vehicle. It has a v 8 engine, my friend drove it to I 95 to my home and filled the tank with 87 regular unleaded. On the highway the van showed hesitation and lack of power. His other friend said that this van needed a 93 premium gas. Is this true? Also when he bought it, there is no owner manual to refer to. So, does anyone know where to purchase an owner manual for this vehicle?? Please respond...

suvshopper4

pogito - Just a couple thoughts from a non-expert:

Change the air filter (dirty ones cause bucking and hesitation), then use Regular 87 octane. Could be all you need. A full tune-up never hurts (including new plug wires), either. Try it before you spend the extra .20/gal for Premium.

And I don't think any of the American 8-cylinder engines used timing belts - all chains (I think).

Good luck.
ejp

mrnimmo

Fuel filter also. Actually, with 60k I'd probably start here. Fuel injection cleaner too. (They were FI then, right?) PCV. O2 sensor maybe.

reezteez

I was wondering how the Ford E-150 Chateau van handles in snow? Being rear wheel drive, does the weight make it handle better? I'm seriously looking at a '99 Chateau in FL, but I live in CT where the snow is. Either respond here or to me, reezteez@aol.com Thanks!

campman

I own a 99, E-150. Barely any traction on snow. Better if there's a full tank of gas (more weight in rear). Also, I've put 2 bags of sand in rear (I think they weigh 50# each), and that helps. Tires, of course will make a difference. Start with all-season and figure out how much snow you'll be treading--maybe you'll need snow tires in the winter. As far as braking on snow and ice, the ABS system on the E150 is good on dry pavement but lets you go on snow and ice (like slipping into a truck in a parking lot on a crawl). Spoke with a service tech I know at a GM dealer and he said common problem with ABS. The ABS even slips on sand on pavement. Not a good feeling when you feel like you can't stop. Please don't get this confused with going too fast for conditions--a non-registered speed on the speedometer shouldn't be enough to slide into a parked vehicle.

vguard

When I purchased my 2000 E-150 Chateau, I had a choice between one with a limited slip rear axle and one without. Having the memory of getting stuck on a flat wet field with my old F-150 pickup (that did NOT have limited slip), I chose the van with the limited slip rear end.

However, having said that, I still think extra weight is the answer for snow conditions (just as it is with a pickup).

The great thing about rear wheel drive is it's advantages when towing, but for ice and snow, nothing will ever beat a front wheel drive vehicle (in my opinion, anyway).

Of course, also keep in mind that for many years, people survived the snow with nothing but rear wheel drive vehicles, so it can be done.

vguard

campman

My 1999 E150 went in the shop on 7/26 for a routine 45,000 mile maintenance and concerns over a pulsating feeling in streering column when braking (front brakes) and pulling to left when braking or not. The shop replaced the pads and rotors and everything was cool per the shop. Just b4 we went on vacation (8/3), the van begins to veer to the left (when braking or not--more severe when braking). Got it in the shop hours b4 we left for vacation--shop says, "oops, the pads are out of whack" and they spent several hours adjusted/cleaning/testing (no charge). They took it out for a test drive and said everything works fine. My wife brought it home and I took it out--no pulsating felt in the steering wheel but it still veered to the left, but not too bad when braking. So, with no time left for going back to the garage, we left on vacation. About 1,000 miles into the trip, the pulsating is back and lotsa brake dust on both wheels (this is a standard color on our van wheels!). I talked to a couple of E150 owners during the trip relaying my concerns and frustrations with the front brakes--they said they hadn't experienced such problems and these folks lived in the mountain areas of Wyoming & Montana (lots of braking going down mountain grades). So, I relayed my displeasure, once again, to the Ford service manager and he said, once again, "Bring it in and we'll look at it." I like the van very much, fits our family size fine and is a great road trip vehicle, but the front brakes leave much to be desired. The service manager blames the problem(s) on the size/weight of the vehicle, e.g., there's so much weight on the front end and with braking, especially in cities (stop-n-go), it wears the brakes down. But I hardly expect to feel the pulsating and see the brake dust after a 2500 mile trip. Advice anyone?

vguard

Because my E-150 only has 5500 miles on it, I have yet to wear out the original set of brake pads. However, I have read from many people that the front brake problem is widespread with the E-150 (the only real complaint anyone ever has with the E-150).

I can't remember exactly where, but I do remember reading one post where the writer suggested using a "high performance" brake pad (vs Ford OEM).

The impression I got was the "high performance" brake pad is not as soft as the OEM version, which means less brake dust and longer life.

I will search for more specific information (since I will be in the same boat soon), and post what I find.

vguard

rsmmac

I was sideswiped by a Nissan Maxima today driving my 2001 GMC Savana 3500 155" wheelbase van. The gentleman who hit me swerved to miss another vehicle in his path; his side doors impacted with my front bumper, wheel and passenger door. Aside from sheet metal damage, and perhaps a front wheel alignment shift (I can't tell, it still drives straight) due to the impact and subsequent travel over the center median curb and shrubs, not much happened to the van or us (passenger/driver). The Maxima did not fare as well, with significant body damage and the driver complaining of general aches and pains.

Despite all the attention paid a few months back to the roll over propensity of these big vans when fully loaded, I still believe it is safer to be in this vehicle than many others. The vehicle's stability and mass helped me stay in control of the vehicle, and avoid sliding over into opposing traffic, which would have been an unwanted test of my offset-impact survivability at about 70 - 80 mph (35 - 40 mph both directions). Had I been in a smaller vehicle, the impact would have probably easily pushed me into opposing traffic.

vguard

Your story reinforces my decision to purchase our Ford E-150 "full size" van, last March.

When I started my search for a new vehicle, my first stop was State Farms (my insurance provider) "25 safest vehicles" list, which included the Ford E-150.

vguard

ghulet

A friend of mine, a musician, currently has a 1986 Ford Club Wagon with 217,000 miles that has served her well, but needs to be replaced. She has about $6,000 to spend. Today we drove three hours to look at a 96 Dodge 15-passenger van with 104k miles, non-working radio and windshield wipers, and a slightly beat up, dirty and cigarette burned interior. This gem was priced at $8450, from which the dealer would not reduce by more than $200, so no dice.
Can anyone here recommend a big van (reliability is important, the band tours frequently). She needs something that can hold 5 or more people (so probably two benches) and lots of equipment. Is the Ford, Chevy and Dodge best? Anyone know which engines from these manufacturers are best? Thanks.

suvshopper4

ghulet: You might do well to look at a used conversion van, especially from a private seller, and especially at this time of year. They tend to go pretty cheap, compared to their original sticker prices, and especially compared to work-type vehicles.
The conversion vans vary in size (length), and some have "Hi-Tops" that mean less stooping over (but don't fit in some parking garages). You could always take out the 3rd bench seat/bed if you want to make more room. Usually the first 2 rows of seats are captain's chairs, though, so that would only leave seating for 4. If you are handy, you might move the bench/bed to the middle position and have plenty of room behind for equipment.
I've had 4 full-sized vans (all Dodges, and I can recommend them), 3 of them work-type; the one conversion van I bought (with 131k miles on it!) worked out real well.
Good luck. Rock (?) on.
ejp

ghulet

Part of the problem is that she doesn't know what exactly it is she wants (insert wishy-washy female joke here, I know).
She doesn't want a conversion van because she has to install a 'loft' in the back, under which the band will lock and store their equipment (the band tours big cities like NY and Chicago, where break-ins are a fact of life). We looked at a 15 passenger extended van, which tend to be expensive and two of the four seats would get pitched. Now she's considering buying a cargo van and putting in one seat, which I think is goofy. The only advantage I can see to a cargo van is that they're cheap. I personally wouldn't want to ride in a vehicle with no insulation (sound or weather) for 1000 miles, and most of them don't have rear heat and lots of them don't have air at all. I've seen everything in the papers and on-line from higher mileage newer models to older ones with low miles. She's considering everything from 88s to as new as she can afford. Personally I'd rather have something newer (like after the body change in 92), well kept with a few more miles. So far here in Chicago, Fords tend to be far more numerous than Dodges or Chevys, and she's had good luck with Fords, but she's considering all brands. I just found a 94 Ford Club Wagon 7 passenger with 78k for $6500 negotiable, we may have a winner.......

suvshopper4

Good luck. Keep me posted. I love talking cars and vans.
ejp

richcolo

You might consider buying a college motor pool van at auction. I did that at CSU in Fort Collins, to get a 15 passenger van for our church. They tend to be about 4 years old with about 120,000 miles and some really dumb problems...the one we bought had rear air, but not heat, serious front alignment issues, load range C (instead of E) tires and a couple broken seat backs. We also got complete maintenance records. We inspected 4 and drove 2 vans the day prior to the auction. We paid $6,000 for the van and about $1,200 more for tires, new brakes, shocks, front end parts and seat repairs. For $7,200 we got a 3 year old van with 122,000 miles, with a book value over $12,000.

creid

I have been looking at the 2001 Gmc Savana LT. I was wondering how most out here are doing with gas mileage? I currently have a GMC Safari AWD & the gas mileage is very disturbing. I get about 13 in the city & the last trip was about 17 hwy. Does the full size get much better over my Safari. Or should I just keep the Safari & possibly their is not much of an advantage with the Savana. It just seems with the 4.3L V6 it is terribly underpowered for the Safari & on hwy driving with any type of hill the van constantly has to downshift, also have 3.73 rearend in the van. Thanks in advance for any input.

xfiles

I also spent a lot of time trying to find out what others got for gas mileage. Problem was many forgot to mention is it calculated fo U.S. or Cdn gallons. Or they forgot to mention other important information. I was under the impression from other readings in here that 17MPG U.S. is about normal for hiway driving.

As for my results here goes. I have the 2001 Savana 2500 extended van, 5.7L engine with 3.73 axle, andthe test is during the break in period (it returned with 4100 miles on it after 1800 miles of driving). Of the 1800 miles the first 1000 miles was flat driving and the remainder was a mix of city and mountain driving on hiways through New Hampshire. The results are (the entire time the A/C was on) based on a combined hiway and city average of 14.6 mpg (U.S) which is approximately 17 mpg Cdn.With A/C off I expect perhaps about 19-20mpg Cdn (and for the U.S. people the 17mpg average I read about for hiway driving is about right in my opinion). I drove with a light foot, averaging 55-65mph which perhaps explains the better then average mileage from what I expected. However, on the window sticker it did give the EPA rating of 22mpg Cdn.

This puppy has plenty of power, and you won't find it downshifting in the hills. The vehicle is extremely quite, rattle free and solid, and towing most things should be a breeze. My guess is the AWD drive effects gas mileage a bit in your case. For the huge space available, I am not complaining on my longer trips. I don't care about city mileage, since usually you don't travel very far anyways. On the open road it is nice to have all that room, easy access to the back for a beer (oops....did I say that...orange juice...just kiddin about the beer).

Good luck.

ghulet

My friend just bought a van, as described in posts 586-588. She found a 96 Ford Club Wagon XLT 15 passenger, loaded (power windows, locks, cassette, rear heat and air, tilt, cruise, etc.) with 80k miles for $6500 (guy was asking $8500, asked how much she had to spend). She had it checked out by a mechanic, everything was AOK (van has some scratches and a cracked windshield, but otherwise good). It was owned by a summer camp. I think she did really well, I hadn't seen anything newer than 94 in that price range.

xfiles

I forgot to mention that this vehicle was driven empty except for myself driving. What can I say, I like lots of room....LOL!

Good luck

xfiles

How's your van been, your not holding it together with crazy glue are yu? (just kidding). Actually the GMC vans are more likely the ones needing glue to hold together interior trim along the windows (although mine are still okay). Those clips they use I hear could be better.

I have 4200 miles on mine so far, and so far it looks like were both pleased with our vehicles (thumbsup). The reliability issue will be interesting in the future I bet. How is your gas mileage? Have you bumped any smaller vehicles to confirm our opinions regarding safety yet? (LOL). I hope not! LOL!

creid

I am in the U.S. located in the Cincinnati area. Seems if I did get the full size I wouldn't really average any worse gas mileage as I presently get. Thanks for the information I will have to inquire at a dealer & test drive one of there babies.

monkunashi

Did anyone notice that the ugly 1970's look conversions are the only vans available on dealer lots? OK, so maybe I am going overboard with the "ugly" statement, but the pinstripes!! Noooo!

I have searched and searched for a "base" GMC or Chevy van, new, on dealer lots, but all I can find are commercial vans.

So I ordered one....
a Pewter Metallic base level w/1SB convenience package, 8 speaker sound system and Locking rear differential.

I still have yet to see one on the road -- I will be stand out with the base level headlights, grill, and *no white paint*!!

rsmmac

Ouch - I thought white was easier to keep clean and cooler in the hot sun. I KNEW I should have chosen pewter metallic.

All kidding aside, I too disliked the conversion options on the dealer lots (not to mention the outrageous markup), so I got a 2001 GMC 3500 15 passenger (ext. wheelbase) SLE, locking diff, 8.1L, all the options I could chose (I had to order it through the dealer; I have some earlier posts regarding this van & my experiences). Then I went to El Kapitan and had them install a fiberglass "bubble top"(?) roof with a normal headliner (= no disco lights), giving about 5' 8" of room inside + I added a TV & VCR.

I am extremely happy with my van (and so are my kids) and even more so after post #584 above.

monkunashi

How long did it take to get your ordered GMC? I suppose I could easily get a contractor-type 3500 and convert it through an aftermarket converter.... I ordered my van in Onyx Black, and was told it would take longer, so after waiting a few weeks with no progress, I changed it to Pewter, which I know at least they use on the SLTs in the showrooms. Anyway, I hope to get it soon - esp. with the great financing GM is offering now.

xfiles

...for my 2001 GMC Savana 2500 extended passenger van to come in. I have read others state similar figures. With trucking problems at the Canadian border, it may take longer now. There are layoffs everywhere due to shortages of parts. Good luck!

rsmmac

I ordered it in September when the 2001 model was just rolled out, and the dealer received it mid-December.