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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    What about smoothness and amount of noise generated? Was there any discernible difference in those areas? Like, did you feel less vibration in the floor at idle or was it quieter when you revved it? I was hoping the 105 horse engine would solve the lack of off-the-line power when using the AC. Most of those things probably wouldn't show up in a quick test drive though. I guess I will just have to see for myself. Is that 42mpg achieved with the AC on or off?? Thats some excellent fuel economy.
  • okie53okie53 Posts: 10
    In evaluating the two engines, I noticed no difference in noise, vibration or smoothness. I wasn't using A/C during the test drives.

    Except for the defrost setting, I haven't used the A/C yet. The mileage I've been getting is the result of driving between 55-65 mph on the highway; most people drive a lot faster so will get lower mpg figures.

    If I could've found a 5-speed GS model in the color I wanted (red), I might have bought it instead of the L. The only things I really miss though are the tach and the clock. Otherwise mine suits me just fine.
  • thanks alot for the info on my car....I talked to some other guy on the Hyundai Connection and he said the same thing about the valve in my filler neck! The last time a filled up, I did it myself and the nozzle clicked off at 11 gallons...when I took the nozzle out, I could see the gas was filled up almost all the way till the hole! So it MUST be that valve!
    As for the engines, I test drove the 2000 GL Automatic, the 2001 GS manual, and finally the 2001 GS auto. The 92 HP engine (auto)was DEFINETELY much slower and noiser than the 105 HP (auto). I also test drove the 5 speed 105HP, but i didnt like the fact that I was grinding so much and the engine revs higher in 5th gear (3,300 RPM @ 70MPH) than the automatic OD (2,900 RPM @ 70MPH)I opted for the auto tranny because my commute of 100mi. per day was killing my legs, back, and the road rage was increasing with the manual...So I wanted a car to shift for me, at the time, the MPG were only 2 off form the manual so I thought it was a good idea..but I agree about the lengthy break in...Im at 3,300 miles already. I have to admit, this is a cool car for the money...Im sure I'll like it even more when I get it fixed.
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    senduo, your post #296 above has been hidden because it contains a copyright violation. Please post a link to the article you are citing. Thanks!

  • I have 16k miles on my 2k Accent Hatch 5sp. I never even get close to 40mpg. Recently the mileage dropped to 32mpg. Would anyone be able to come up with an explanation? I live in MidWest, the temperature dropped to ~32 F and a bit lower recently.
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    It has also been colder here in Connecticut and my 2000 Accent mileage has likewise dropped. I believe this is due to the extended period of higher idle speeds during engine warmup, which uses more gas. Also, in the morning, I have been letting the car warm up for 3 or 4 minutes before attempting to drive, since the windows are frequently coated with ice and I want some warm air to defrost the windows before driving, and that uses more gas. Living close to the water, just scrapping the ice off of the windows is fruitless without heating the windshield, as the ice on the windshield reforms just as quickly as it is scrapped off. So some extra time is required in the morning before attempting to drive.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I am requesting some help from those with the 1.5 liter 12 valve engine. Could you guys look at the water temp gauge sensor mounting for me? It is located directly underneath where the top radiator hose goes into the engine. When doing my underhood check after changing the oil, I noticed some odd crusty yellow buildup all around the water temp sensor. It looks exactly like the corrosion that forms on a battery terminal. I have never seen it form anywhere but on a battery. My first thought was a possible slow leak around the sensor, but that wouldn't cause a yellow crust. I find this build-up very odd and was wondering whether anyone else has seen this. Should I be concerned at all? Would appreciate your help. Thanks.
  • Purchased a salvaged '97 Accent GS today for $1100, needs a hatch and a windshield and lots of interior work. It's that ugly lavender metallic color and has been well beat up. We'll see how far past its current 95K I can take it. Wish me luck finding parts, the guy said the reason damaged Hyundai's sell so cheap is because of high demand, low supply, and junkyards that overcharge for small parts. He told me he once paid $400 for a used Elantra hood that could have been had for $365 new.

    That coolant sensor is of course electric, so any leaks in the area could cause corrosion. A flooded car gets corrosion in every exposed terminal. So if you have even the slightest leak, if it hits a wire, it will cause corrosion. Get yourself a $2 can of battery terminal cleaner and a battery brush and clean that connection up. Then you can wrap it to keep any water out and check it later. If it still corrodes, the leak is from inside the sensor and the sensor may need replaced or resealed.
  • I just want to post a progress report about my hatchback 99 Accent. Over the time I owned it, there were a couple of problems: faulty alternator, and whistling noise from the exhaust (faulty exhaust resonator). Both problems were promtly fixed by the dealer under warranty. Overall, I believe, the car is worth every penny, and more. It feels just as well built as a Civic, and I love the lumber support adjustment on the driver's seat. As to 5 grand I saved over buying a Civic, I am happily spending that on travel.
  • I love happy car owners!

  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Got over 37,000 miles on my 99 Accent sedan. It's been a great car so far. Only two problems, a noisy power steering pump and my radio got zapped with a lightning strike. Both problems were fixed under warranty. I spend over 3 hours a day in my Accent and it is quite comfortable for such a small car. The new 2001's are even nicer. I would definitely reccomend this car for anyone who wants a reliable economy car.
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    I finally got a chance to take a close look at the water temperature sensor mentioned earlier by lngtonge18. It appears to me that there is a sparing amount of orange stuff which was applied to the thread of the sensor before the sensor was installed. I believe this to be some form of sealant used to prevent leaks from around the threads, like industrial Locktite, or teflon tape, which would be used for the same purpose. Nothing to worry about, in fact, something good, because it means that Hyundai was paying attention to the details...
  • I just started my 2001 Accent GS after it hasn't been started in 30 hours... Right after it started, the car emitted "smoke" with a strange smell but went away after a couple of seconds... It was dark out so I dont really know if it had a color to it. I only have 4,500 miles on it...was the smoke "normal" or should I be worried? I am bringing the car in on the 26th to get the brakes fixed and a fuel valve replaced. Should I mention this? I only noticed the smoke this one time.
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    Smoke doesn't sound good, smoke might mean oil got into a cylinder somehow. I have nearly 10,000 miles on my 2000 Accent, but I have never seen smoke. Have you done your first oil change yet? I changed the oil at about 3500 miles, and it was a good thing too, because there was noticeable metal particles from the breakin mixed with the oil. The second oil change was devoid of such breakin particles. What is wrong with your brakes? How do you know that you need a fuel valve, what is the symptom? I have been lucky so far, no problems at all, and very economical....
  • I did the first oil change at exactly 2,000 miles...I put in pennzoil 5W-30.... I am going to do the second oils change at 5,000 but im trying to decide whether or not to use 5W or 10W. My engines seemes louder when I changed the oil so I am attributing it to the weight of the oil...maybe the thicker oil will quiet the engine a bit... My car jerks and pulsates when I come to a stop indicating warped rotors or drums...I dont stop rough at all so I really dont know why this is happening with only 4,500 miles on the car. This problem began around 1,500 miles and I have been waiting to see if it may go away, but it hasnt, its gotten much worse. My fuel problem has been occurring since the first fill-up. I realized I had a problem when I filled up 11.5 gallons when my gauge was above Empty. When it fills up, the pump doesnt shut off in time and fuel spills out of the neck. I havent been able to "fill" my tank completely...I can only add like $10 worth which is annoying cause I cant check my MPG's. I asked around and several people had the same problem and mentioned the fuel cut valve. So, those are my problems with my BRAND new car. Im starting to dislike Hyundai...
  • For some reason my last few posts in here and other topics were lost during the changeover to the new software. I'd like to say that I like the Accent a lot. Except I wrecked it and blew the airbags. But that's OK because nothing was damaged except the left front fender and the bumper cover. The bumper is fine, it is just moved about an inch, and the fender is pushed back far enough to interfere with the door. The lights are all good. I'll continue to drive the car and hopefully the other lady's insurance will cover me some money. The airbag shattered the passenger window but not the driver's window. So I'm out $95 for a window and $2.25 in vacuuming. I also found out although this car was wrecked and rebuilt previously, it was never issued a salvage title. So I now have a clear title Accent. The air works, it drives fine, and once I replace this fender it will be hard to tell it was wrecked. I saw airbags on sale on eBay for $25 each, they're gone now, but I am sure I will see more. The guy I bought it from can activate the airbags cheaply so I'll buy them, take them to him, and save my $400. Whatever I get in insurance will probably go to buy tires, the fender, and the rest to savings. I got an estimate from a body shop at $1360 to repair the car like new, including all the other dents about the car (like the ones on the right rear quarter and hatch), but the way he wrote it it looks like only accident repairs. Might be nice to get it fixed up like new.

    I spent some time about the car yesterday. The engine compartment is clean and dry, no leaks around the coolant sensor like lngtnge18 described. I put in an air filter. Fram makes the CA7775 for $12.89 but it is not carried in stock in the majority of auto parts stores. I found a Wix filter for $8.29 at O'Reilly. I'll bet Hyundai charges $15-$20 for the same filter. The filter I removed from the car was a Hyundai filter, very dirty, wonder how long it's been in there...

    Before the accident I was having a tough time opening the passenger door from the inside or out. Now the the window is gone, it opens fine! I hope when the new window is installed I can still open the door from inside and out. I'll be tinting it myself ($6) because the rest of the car has cheap tint and I see no reason to spend $30 to tint one window with nice 3M smoke tint when the other windows are bluish-purple.

    Before the accident the car ran perfect. It still does, but vibrates a little harder at idle. I'll have to check the motor mounts.

    So now I am searching for parts...a passenger door panel in tan with the cloth trim piece and map pocket...a dash vent (center right)...a back cushion for the back seat (60/40 split)...and the plastic thing that holds the passenger visor to the headliner. There are NO Accents at the self-service yards. There are some at the nice yards but they want $150 for the door panel, $100 for the whole back seat (won't sell just the back cushion), and they won't sell me the other parts because they are "too small to waste their time on".
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I have been so pissed at this site because I couldn't post anything. Now, it is finally up and running again!! It's time to catch up on what I was trying to post earlier.

    Clarkemode, you have nothing to worry about! The small amount of "smoke" you saw was probably nothing more than water evaporating from inside the tailpipe. When a car sits for long periods of time, water condenses inside the tailpipe. When the hot exhaust air hits the water droplets, it evaporates it. Than, when the hot moisture filled air hits cooler drier air outside, the water condenses to form a white cloud. It is the same effect as when your warm breath hits cold air. That's why you tend to see the cloud more when it is cold out. Seeing as the cloud disappeared rapidly, I'm willing to bet that is all you saw. As for the exhaust smell, exhaust always smells funny when you first start a car. The engine is producing the most emissions at that time and therefore smells strange. The smell goes away once the catalytic converter has warmed up. At any rate, I think you are looking too hard to find problems with your new car. Just relax and enjoy it!!
  • My niece will be returning from England soon after a short-term post grad job. During her senior year I "loaned" her a surplus SC2 company car to drive. She was just so-so in her opinion of that vehicle (I personally think it's just barely OK for what it cost)I had promised her a "new" car upon her return. In your opinions do you think a Hyundai Accent GL H/B would be a improvement over the Saturn ? I really would like to give her a "new" vehicle and from what I've seen of the Accent (have not driven one myself)as to fit and finish,the price, taking into account the level of equipment,makes it look like a real bargain. What do all you OWNERS think ?

  • but my car is getting worse. Turned 98000 today, noticed more of an oil smell so I checked under the hood and under the car. No leaks. It was still idling so I stood on the gas for a second, revving it to 4000 and back, and nice blue clouds hit the air from the tailpipe. So I've got an oil burner. Well, I changed the oil at 97000 and the dipstick still shows full. Must be valve guides because it also puffs out a cloud at startup. So the valve seals/guides have failed. I'm not concerned because it isn't consuming enough oil to need to add anything but at the 103000 change I'll know if I had to add any. The previous owner leased this car and ran WAY over on his miles, racking up 95238 on a 36000 mile lease. It was repossessed because he could not afford to pay the $8900-some mileage fee (15 cents a mile) nor refinance the gracious $6500 residual, because the bank would not loan him $6500 on a Hyundai with 95K.

    I already found this car's replacement. A clean white 1996 Elantra automatic with 75K and some vandalism damage for $2000. I won't repeat the words painted on the car in this family-oriented forum. Funny thing is, it was misspelled.

    Hopefully this lady's insurance will not deny my claim. She had the gall to make a claim on my insurance which was promptly denied. So we'll see how much they're willing to pay. I got a $2320 estimate from Hyundai, $1885 from Service King, and the one I'll keep to myself, $1148 from Earl Scheib. I don't think it's worth putting the money in the car. I'll drive it until it won't start, because whether it runs or not, it is worth the same $400 to the junkyard.
  • okie53okie53 Posts: 10
    I purchased an Accent L hatchback last month after test driving Hondas and Saturns (BTW
    there is no "GL" hatchback, only the L or the GS). The Saturn I drove was the entry level SL. I
    liked some things about it (particularly the dent-proof side panels) but overall, I felt that the
    Accent was the better vehicle, especially for the price (about $3k more for comparably
    equipped Saturn). The Accent handled and accelerated better, was more comfortable,
    had an unbeatable warranty, and although its highway mileage rating was lower (36 vs. 40
    for the Saturn), I consistently get 40 mpg on the highway. In addition, the Accent is a better
    looking car than the Saturn and has many more available colors. For about $1200-1500 more
    than the L, you can get the GS hatchback with a bigger engine, nicer interior and a few other
    amenities. Either way, you get an excellent vehicle for under $11,000.

  • okie53: Thanks for your input. Since that posting my niece "thinks" the ZX2 Ford is nice too. They are really dealing on them. $1500 cash back,dealers selling at near invoice also. At present Hyundai has $500 cash back on the Accent but the dealers are not willing to budge too much off the MSRP. I'll just have to go drive both and see which one impresses me and her.

  • Several dealers in the Dallas-Fort Worth area are advertising the $10,184 MSRP Accent (base hatchback with air and cassette I believe package #1?) for $7,995. Another dealer is asking $8,134, another is advertising the automatic version for $8,934. These prices do not include taxes, but they do include air and cassette and rebates. It seems the $10,184 Accent is the cheapest a dealer is willing to order here. I noticed all the Kia Rios at the dealers were $12,199 or $10,594, there were no $8,495 (sale price $6,995) Rios, although they were advertised. Eckert Hyundai-Suzuki is my favorite local dealer, they don't have much of a parts or service department but they are only 10 minutes away. The guy there had a 1997 GS like mine (but in silver) for $3695; it only had 25K on it. Makes me wonder if I will ever sell mine for a decent price even if I choose to fix it up.

    New Accents for $7,995 in stock, New Rios for $6,995 not available and none have been ordered. Wonder why? Maybe because the Accent is a sure seller while the Rios just sit. I don't know.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    The car swallowed two bookcases, a Gateway computer box, and several dozen hangers of clothes helping my fiance move her things over to my apartment. The big moment is only 5 days and 40 minutes away. Not having a back seat back cushion allowed me to fit it all AND close the hatch without breaking anything. And she and I fit up front with plenty of room. I looked at the new Accents and a new car with air for $8,000 would be nice, but I can't afford it. The insurance company representing the lady I hit will probably total it and leave me shopping for another car. I'll buy a Metro before anything else, but if I can't find one, the Accent is higher on my list than Tercels and Aspires. This car is doing OK.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Hey everyone, I just got back from a very long trip and really wracked up some miles on my '00 Accent, now at 11,100. I put about 2000 miles on her in just one week; most of that mileage was accumulated in just one day (drove from West Palm Beach, Fl to New Orleans). I was very impressed with the front seats. They kept me comfortable even though I was stuck in the car for 12 hours with only short bathroom and food breaks. I couldn't believe how little my back hurt with being stuck in the car for so long. Hyundai did an awesome job designing seats that stay comfortable for hours, at least for small people like me. I never once had to use the lumbar support provided for the driver. However, they could make the headrests a bit softer. They are hard as a rock and not too comfortable to lean your head back on to go to sleep. I also hit a new top speed in my car, 107 mph and it was still accelerating. It felt very stable at that speed and I was not scared at all driving that fast. My mileage fluctuated quite a bit (between 27-34 mpg), mostly due to some strong winds that I encountered and also the long periods driving at a steady 80-90 mph. Anyway, she continues to be solid and trouble free and I remain a very happy customer. I have even gotten numerous compliments from friends on how nice my car looks. Hyundai has made itself a return customer for sure. Driving is believing..........
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    I now have about 10,300 miles on the Accent, which means lngtonge18 has pulled ahead of me, at least temporarily :-) We have been having very cold weather in Connecticut. I like the way the car starts after a deep cold soak, it fires up immediately. That is a sign of good design planning. I once had a Toyota Corona that was awful in cold weather, but that was years ago. Anyway, we have had lots of ice and snow here, and so far, the car has handled the slippery conditions well. I have a hill to get up into my parking lot, and we get a lot of ice on the hill. Some cars just won't make it up the hill, but so far, no problems with the Accent. Having the manual shift and clutch helps, too....
  • ken127ken127 Posts: 5
    I have 5 spd 2000 accent (16000) which, until the cold weather came was getting 39 mpg. It dropped like a rock to 30 mpg ( I know 30 mpg isn't bad)when it is 15 degrees outside. I love my accent but I did buy it for the gas mileage. Can someone tell me the reason for the large dropoff, I can understand a drop of a few mpg's in winter driving, but 9 mpg seems like alot. I called the local dealer and they never heard of this problem. Please pass along anything you folks know.
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    ken127, in answer to your question, I am not an expert, but I have noticed a dropoff in gas mileage with the cold weather we have been having (although not as pronounced as what you observed). I believe the excellent start characteristics and cold running characteristics are obtained by running the mixture rich until the car heats up. This uses more gas and would be more noticeable with short trips with may warm up cycles as opposed to longer trips with fewer warm up cycles. That's my theory anyway. You might just check your temperature gauge to insure that the car heats up fully. A defective thermostat might let the car run cooler than normal, and then the mixture would be richer for a longer period of time, cutting the gas mileage. My Accent temp gauge always goes to the center in about five minutes of running or so...
  • i know most of you are not concerned with air conditioning this time of the year, but i live in the southwest where it gets to 110 degrees daily in the summer months.
    i was going to buy my wife an echo, but the air conditioner is very weak. it never seems to cool down in the summer.
    does anyone live in the south where it's very hot and humid or where the temperature goes over 100 regularly?
    i'd like some input on the air conditioner in the accent.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I live in northern Florida where 100 degrees is quite common during the summer, in addition to humidity levels in the 80-100% area. My AC handled those temperatures reasonably well, especially after I got the windows tinted (the base L hatchback does not even come with factory tint). Before the windows were tinted, it had trouble cooling the interior if the trips were less than 10 minutes, and the fan needed to stay at the 4th speed to be adequate at city speeds. After the tint was added, the AC could cool down the interior to the point of it being comfortable at the 3rd fan speed setting when idling and driving in the city. Once highway speeds have been achieved, the AC works perfect with fan speeds at the 1-2 level. Recirculation mode should be used after the initial "sitting in the sun heat" has worn off, as it produces much cooler temperatures than the fresh air setting. Overall, I think my factory AC unit works pretty good; it keeps me plenty comfortable and thats what matters. Just about every newer car nowadays has trouble putting out cold air in 100+ temperatures if all the driving is done in the city. It has to do with the R134a CFC-free refrigerant. However, it should work better for you than for me as dry desert heat is nowhere near as hard on an AC system as a hot AND humid environment. The only way to tell for sure is to go test drive the car in those temperatures before you buy it. Hope my insight helps.
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