We have an updated look. Click here for information on how to manage your settings. If you run into any issues, please email [email protected]

New Member Thread Mazda CX-9

MazdaTechieMazdaTechie Posts: 14
edited July 2014 in Mazda
Hi all,

I was invited by a fellow poster on Mazdaforum.com that goes by "howardru" back in early January. I'm a Mazda certified technician and I'm ASE certified. I'm not a master yet, but I know some stuff and have access to a lot of resources. Let me know if I can help and I'll pitch in where I can. =>


  • steverstever Posts: 52,457

    The Mazda CX-9 Maintenance and Repair discussion would probably be a good one to add to your "watch" list.
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    Hey Mazda Techie....that be me. Thanks so much.

    Your knowledge and professional advice is sorely needed. Glad you could join.

  • mapa87mapa87 Posts: 25
    Hi, I've been trying to get the overall dimensions of the dockable DVD entertainment system for the CX-9. I just like to know how much space it take up on the headliner. My dealer does not have one in stock and says he can not find that info. I was able to get the install instructions but that does not have the dimensions referenced in it. Hope you can help
    Thank you
  • I don't know the exact dimensions. If it's the same one I've dealt with installing before (this was early last year, so it's been awhile), there's actually a pre-made jig that's used to cut out the space in the headliner. From memory though if I had to guess, it's positioned over the floorboards for the 2nd row seats, and the base that stays in the headliner might be about ~12 inches by ~10 inches. With the player in the base and the screen open and hanging down, the bottom of the screen is down maybe around 8 to 10 inches total from the headliner. When the screen is folded shut, probably only about 1 to 1.5 inches. Again, those are estimates from memory, but I hope that helps.
  • mapa87mapa87 Posts: 25
    That does help. Thanks for responding.
  • eroc2eroc2 Posts: 4
    Every time I ride on a rough road - there is a crackling noise coming from the drivers side passanger in the vicinity of the post where the air bag is located. Any Ideas. I've checked seat belt and it appears not to be the problem
  • "drivers side passenger"--which seat are you referring to exactly? Do you mean the rear passenger seat on the drivers side? 2nd or 3rd row? Do you mean the post that's on the left side of your head? Can you be more specific? So far it doesn't sound like a noise I've dealt with before.
  • I have just recently purchased a 2008 Mazda CX9. Is there any way to have SIRIUS AND Aux output for the I POD?
  • To be truthful yet still friendly to all of you on the subject of noises:

    With any noise concerns, unless the description matches something I've dealt with before, I'm unable to pinpoint it over the internet, or offer much of anything that it might be. Even though I may know how everything is basically put together in an area described in/on the vehicle, it could still be literally anything in that region causing it. The truth is that for any noise for which prior research does not yet exist, I have to be able to personally drive or ride in the vehicle, hear the noise, and follow necessary troubleshooting procedures to be able to track it down.

    I've seen small trim pieces, frames of center consoles, cowl grilles, wheel well liners, wheels, brake pads, backing shields, loose spark plug wires, variable valve timing actuators, glove boxes, door lock actuators, weather seals, brake booster hose brackets, bumpers, loose power steering pumps, fuel pumps, shock mounts, hubcaps, convertible latch top covers, failed sway bar bushings, customer accessories (radar detectors suctioned to windshields), wheel bearings, window sill insulation, radio brackets, electric steering lock connectors, and other things all causing various kinds of noises from squeaks to wind noise to rattles to squeaks to clunks to rubbing noises to you name it on various different Mazdas. That doesn't mean all those things always make noise. You see 100 cars, and one of them comes in with a noise on X part that all the others like it are quiet on.

    My point is that unless I've dealt with it before (and sometimes even then), it's pretty critical for me to hear the noise myself and trace it down at least somewhat if I'm to offer any advice on it's source.

    I'm not asking anyone to refrain from asking about noises they encounter--you don't know what I've dealt with before, and I may have encountered your noise in the past. I just want you to be aware of the circumstances that surround the question. I hope I've created no ill will. =>
  • Well from what I can find, it kind of depends on what you're wanting to do. If you mean using the factory auxiliary port for your iPod, they used to offer a "switching box" so you could keep that and have Sirius satellite. I believe now they've built them from the factory so you don't have to get that additionally.

    If you're wanting to get Sirius and get the iPod integration module (allows iPod control from the radio), I believe there's a harness kit you can order that will allow you to effectively "daisy chain" the two so you can switch between either.

    If you want the iPod integration module, last I've known you can only get it if you don't have the factory optional navigation system. That may have changed. Ask your service department (Do NOT ask sales--they'll try to sell it to you before they do any research on the matter) to be sure.

    If you don't want the integration module, and just want to use your auxiliary port, just pay attention to the first paragraph in this post hehe. =>
  • eroc2eroc2 Posts: 4
    Rear passenger seat -drivers side- post behind second row -were the seat belt is attached and air bag is located

  • I haven't encountered noises in that area before, so I wouldn't know what to tell you for a cause. If your vehicle is still under warranty, you might see if your dealer can take a crack at it. Or if you're anywhere near my dealer, set an appointment and I'll be happy to track it down hehe. => My dealer's in Denton, TX.

    I'm sorry I can't be of more help to you on this one. :/
  • just came back from the mazda dealer today... the f&I guy says that on average
    on the cx 9 the struts wear out at about 60,000 miles so i better buy the extended warrenty plan for 2,200 dollars 7/100,000 or all preventive maintaince plan for
    2,100 6/100,000 or both for 3,300 dollars!!!! Any and all advice accepted!!!!
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    There are several discussion threads on extended warranties and I've put up a few so go search for them. I think my AAA plan was $1600 for 7/100,000 or something close to that.

    Struts are normal wear and tear (like tires, oil, filters etc) and are not covered by extended warranty plans. I've never hard of a preventitive maintance plan.
  • thank you what is the web site for AAA plan????
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    I would sriously doubt that f&l guy.
    How many CX9s out there do you think have 60K miles on them?
    Hint: CX9 came out at the end of 2006 as 2007 model.
    On average, Americans drive 12-15K per year. Most 2007 CX9 would have about 25-35K on them.

    Besides, you have 3 years to consider buying ext. warranty. (before your OM warranty expries)
    As said, struts are not covered (most suspension elements aren't).
    f7l guys love to scare you into buying warranty. That is nothing new.
  • melanjianmelanjian Posts: 31
    thank you ceric... by the way if i wait till the end of the 3/36 warrenty to buy say
    a 7 /100,000 mile extended warrenty ,does that mean i will have a total of 10 years coverage..?? or still a total of 7 years from original date of purchase?? in effect an additional 4 years???
  • vikefan7vikefan7 Posts: 8
    It means you're covered for 7 years or 100,000 miles total.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    vikefan7 is correct.
    A 7yr/100K warranty is misleading. It includes the 3yr/36K from factory. Therefore, you are buying the 4yr/64K extra.

    Ext warranty may not be a good investment if you MIGHT sell your CX9 before the said period (say, 7yr). Yes, they are usually transferable, but some ext warranty will ask you to sing and dance and pay $100 or more for check-up before they will let you transfer (the so-call fine-prints). I once had ext warranty on my BMW (so problematic).

    To me, buying ext warranty or not is a matter of financial planning. Transfer case, transmission and MFD (multi-function display) are probably some of the most expensive items in CX9 (other than the engine). Each costs $3000 or more. When that happens, can your financial situation handles that? If yes, then, you don't need the ext warranty. If no, you could consider it. Other may argue that why not opening a CD account and put the $1700 in there to help you fix CX9 in subsequent years. Chances are that would be enough (if no major items as I listed fails).
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    Contact your local AAA office. Their plans are regional.

    You have to be a member too.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    A reporter is looking to speak to consumers who purchased a Mazda CX-9 and decided to drive versus fly when vacationing. Please send your daytime phone number and the vehicle you own to [email protected] by Friday, April 10, 2009.
  • Several times after shutting car off, 07 Sport, the HVAC fan blows full speed. I have to turn car on & off again to get it to shut off. Have you seen this problem or have any suggestions. Thanks.
  • If you're referring to the blower motor (fan for air coming out of the dash vents--front blower, or fan for air coming out of the vents on back of center console--rear blower), TSB 07-008/09 addresses that issue. If you haven't driven 36,000 miles yet, take your vehicle into your nearest dealer and mention the TSB number listed above.

    However if you're referring to a radiator/condenser fan under the hood, that may run to cool the motor when you turn the car off.
  • Just got cx9 today...
    the windshield haze does not seem to go.
    Used to my toyota...just putting full a/c on windshield removes the haze.
    But not working in cx9...any suggestions ?

  • Inside or outside? The entire windshield? a/c on defrost should defog if it's just moisture. If you bought it from a dealer I would expect them to fully detail the vehicle, including cleaning inside and outside of all glass, but you might try cleaning both sides with a good glass cleaner. If there is a strip of tint that was added to the top of the windshield, be sure the glass cleaner is ammonia free. If not, don't worry about it.

    If it's not the whole windshield, and you're experiencing spots of fog at the very base of the windshield while driving in the evening that can be removed w/the wipers, there's not too much you can do about that.

    Can you be more specific about this haze on your windshield?
  • Thanks for the reply mazdatechie.

    It's spots of fog at the very base ..which was not going away .
    Yes...I did use wipers..but I thought blowing full a/c on windshield should make it go away? (it happens in my toyota).
    But did not.
    May be i've to get used to some of the things in new car :)
  • Alright. I've got the exact explanation for you.

    That can happen in any vehicle with a working a/c, as long as you have the temperature blend set to cold. Here's what's going on:

    You know why condensation builds up on the outside of a cold Dr Pepper/Coke/soda of your choice when it's in a warm environment? If so, you might know where I'm going with this. If not, here's why. Moisture is present in the air around us--water vapor, humidity, whatever you wish to call it. It stays as vapor in the air because the air is hot enough to keep it that way. Enter the cold soda. The temperature of the outside of the can is much much colder than the air around. As the air passes around the can, the water vapor in the air comes into contact with the can--the temperature of that water vapor is HEAVILY reduced, forcing it to turn back into a liquid--and just as with anything else, that small amount of water clings to the can.

    Keep that principle in mind, and apply it to the very base of your windshield. Even when your a/c is set to blow out of the front vents at you, nothing is perfect, and most cars still let out a tiiiiny flow of air from the defrost vent at the back of the dash. As such, your a/c is essentially refrigerating the very base of your windshield. Eventually, that part of the glass can get very cold, just like the icy cold Dr Pepper can. Now while inside the car, the a/c is removing moisture from the air, it's obviously not doing that to the air outside the car. So as you're going down the road, water vapor in the outside air hits the base of your windshield. When the base of your windshield gets really cold, the water vapor hitting it converts back to a liquid, leaving condensation on the outside of the glass in the coldest areas.

    Long explanation, but basically, the only way to get rid of it is to use your wipers or turn on the heat. It's just one of those things that some find annoying and others don't, but you can't really do anything about because it's just physics at work. I can assure you though, it's nothing wrong with the vehicle.

    Hope that helps!
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    good writeup...every vehicle i've ever owned does this...living down here in TX it happens quite a bit in the spring/fall when the humidity is higher...in the summer, the 100 plus degrees usually keeps em fog free (but the a/c does have a hernia trying to keep up) :D
  • Right there with ya! I'm near DFW in Denton.
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    small world eh...I actually live over near Richardson (I got it at Town North just off 75) but they brought it over from the Hurst dealer as they had the model/build we wanted (forget the name...Wiley maybe?).
  • Great write up Mazdatechie !..Thanks a lot :)
    It surely helps.
    I did not face it since then..so it was the weather that day..just got too concerned I guess since it was first day with my cx-9.
  • Never hurts to ask. Now you're armed with that knowledge for any vehicle you get in the future. It'll show up most commonly on more humid evenings. I'm sure people in the dust bowl of west Texas don't know what the hell you're talking about if you describe it lol.
  • Ahh--Hiley. They call it a 'dealer trade'. Basically Town North found that Hiley had the one you wanted--so instead of losing your business, they swapped one of the cars they had with the one at Hiley so they could still sell you one instead of saying "Go visit Hiley". Made it easy for you eh?

    I work as a tech at Classic Mazda in Denton.
  • Hello all, just trade it in my 2006 Mazda5 for a used 2007 Galaxy Gray Mica CX-9 Touring...WOW! what an upgrade..we love this vehicle! It is quiet, comfortable, powerful and very luxurious..at least from what we were driving. Don't get me wrong our Mazda5 was nice and really fun as well, but this crossover is really awesome and a definate upgrade. We can't wait to take it on a long trip....our yearly anniversary get away is coming up in September so my wife and I will definately enjoy our little trip/vacation. Cheers!
  • Good deal! Just remember on that trip--I'd expect you'd just take your wife for the anniversary trip, but if you do take any kids you have, and they're sitting in the 2nd row and complain of no leg room, tell 'em to move their own seat! hahaha.
  • Thanks for your warm welcome MazdaTechie. I have been lurking and I see that you are a Mazda Technician. I also work for a dealership (Auto Group) in the wholesale parts department but we do not work the Mazda brand, so I would say I am adequately technically inclined but not to a technician level. So I am sure that i will be bothering you with questions from time to time. Thanks again, and no...the boys will be staying with Grandma. It is only the wifee and I in our anniversary getaways! LOL!
  • Yes, it is the blower fan I was referring to. I have the 100K warranty so I will take it back and mention the TSB. Thanks again. :)
  • pwr1pwr1 Posts: 5
    God I hate to get inolved in "the noise" issue... but if you really prowl around on this forum and talk to other drivers - the right, front knocking noise at low speeds, over bumps seems to be extraordinarily consistent. Noises come in all different frequencies and volumes and can also be transmitted differently, so it's a tricky issue - always. BUT - the descriptions of this low frequency, non metallic knocking noise is very very consistent on all the forums - which leads me to believe that there really is a source for this noise. Do thousand and thousands of car owners have to go for a ride with the tech, for the noise to not appear, and then we just go on like this for years? The last time I heard a noise like this was from a Ford Explorer that kept eating up the front torsion bar bushings and spitting them out, bit by bit. It took Ford two years to come up with a solution, but once they did it was fixed properly. Where are we going with this clunk/knocking suspension noise issue? Strut tower bearings/brake booster plate/cv joints... WE NEED HELP! :cry:
  • I believe you. By all means, I know in my heart you're telling 100% truth, and the noise is happening. However, consider a competent technician's point of view, whether it be mine or someone else's:

    If you're experiencing an abnormal noise, whether it be this or something else, I as a technician simply MUST be able to hear the noise as well, and be able to hear it at least somewhat consistently. If it's intermittent and I have to drive for a little while or try different road qualities, or do something totally out of the ordinary to make it happen, that's fine. But if it doesn't happen at all, or only happens once, there is NOTHING for me to go by in order to fix it.

    The sad truth is that sometimes, the problem has to get worse in order for me to track it down.

    Example: A wonderful customer of mine has a 2006 Tribute. He's been experiencing a buzzing noise somewhere in the steering column. The first time he came in for it, we rode together and could not duplicate it. I explained to him in my typical fashion the same ideas I've expressed above. He understood. I took care of his other maintenance and issues on that visit, and sent him on his way. The next time he came in, he stated the noise had become more consistent. We rode again, and I, albeit faintly and intermittently, could hear it. But it was enough to begin the chase. After a day and a half of digging, turns out it was literally in the steering column itself--not anything attached to it, and nothing else transferring the noise into it.

    The point is, I'm only able to troubleshoot a problem I can reproduce, and that goes the same for every technician out there. If you find an auto technician that promises to fix a problem he can't duplicate, except for VERY few exceptions, he's lying to you, or overconfident.

    I say very few exceptions. These exceptions come in the form of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). In the case of a TSB, even then the manufacturer typically asks the technician to duplicate the problem first. But there are some where it will not be possible. For example, we've had issues with the occasional A/C freezing up on long trips. Mazda is aware that a technician cannot test drive the customer's vehicle in a "long trip" fashion to duplicate an A/C freeze-up. However they released a TSB to address the issue, and literally said to perform the repair based on the customer's description of the problem (but still stating 'if system operates normally').

    I just searched for TSBs with the symptoms you described. The closest one refers to a low pitch squeak/chirp heard from the front suspension or dashboard, and instructs to replace the strut top mounting rubber on the offending side. However nothing came up for a knocking noise.

    I know this reply is lengthy, but I'm hoping I can at least be clear. The truth is, rare/almost non-existent are the noises that never get worse with time and use of the vehicle. If you come in and you can't make the noise happen for the tech one time, just come in again when it gets more consistent, or on a day where it's just happening like crazy. In other words, KEEP TRYING, and any good, honest technician will KEEP TRYING WITH YOU. Every Mazda dealer technician has several resources (people and in print) at his disposal in addition to his skill to fix the issue if he can duplicate it. If you continue to come in, eventually (and if it's something serious, probably sooner than you think), you and the technician WILL be able to duplicate it, and he/she WILL be able to chase it down. As that time approaches, you'll also learn more and more on how to specifically duplicate it. Hot weather/cold weather, warmed up vehicle or dead cold first thing in the morning, the description you gave, etc. And the more specific descriptors you give, the better off you and the dealer will be. Your service advisor should be probing for details, but my advice to you is to provide them without being asked, and try to ensure he/she acknowledges you and notes them down. Not all service advisors will make the effort on their own, unfortunately.

    Summary: No matter what the noise is, if it can't be reproduced on your service visit (be it driving it, revving the motor, hitting the area it's coming from, or whatever method works), there's no humanly possible way for a technician to even know where to begin to try to fix it, much less find the source of it. But if you work with the dealer (and in turn the technician) by returning again whenever you can make it happen best, or when it gets worse, or what have you, I/we/they WILL fix your car.

    And if you come in during your warranty for the noise, but we can't reproduce it until your warranty has expired, I've seen it happen multiple times where that issue will still be honored under warranty simply because you experienced it during that time.

    So please, don't lose hope. :)
  • rthebrtheb Posts: 2
    I'm new to this forum but have a question I have yet to see addressed directly. I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a 2010 CX-9, but am debating on getting a AWD vs a FWD. I live in Ohio where the winters (usually) are more slushy, slippery driving than heavy snow. I have never owned an AWD and with comments on the decreased gas mileage and increased buy-in cost, I'm wondering if it is worth the extra money. I've driven both but it was on dry pavement and didn't notice any real difference. One other thing, I have learned the value of snow tires and will either buy them and extra rims or try the Yokohama Spec-X tires. I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this as I want to buy soon.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    I guess it boils down to the question that if you have $2K to spend, what will you spend it on?
    AWD + Yoko-Spec-X tires
    FWD + extra set of snow tires

    IMHO, it boils down to which one you value?

    AWD helps you to get going, snow tires help stopping.
    The choice is very personally.

    Of course, you you have the money, AWD + snow tires is the best combo.
    AWD gives you 1-2mpg less, and probably more problems down the road with shaft, transfer case, coupling device, etc.

    Yoko-Spec-X is the best AS (all-season) tires for CX9. No doubt about that.
    The users' top rating on tirerack.com cannot be overlooked.
  • rthebrtheb Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response. You make a good point about stopping. I white-knuckled it several winters before buying snow tires for my Maxima. It was stupid to wait that long! I guess my indecision boils down to being close to my purchase limit. Get the GT with AWD and no extras or FWD and the Bose/moonroof, Powered lift gate. It's pretty much one or the other. I'll likely go with the Yoko's regardless as I am a big fan of the brand already. I 'm just hesitant to put down this kind of money and realize I made a poor choice, especially with no personal AWD experience to draw on. I also wonder about gas mileage as I had rationalized 1 mpg less, but then read something in another post that it would likely be closer to three! That doesn't help the AWD cause. Thanks again, and I'll let you know what I decide and what I paid.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    edited February 2010
    The AWD on CX9 is very "behind-the-scene".
    Unlike the one I experienced on Pilot (which gives a clutch feel when it engadges - thought bearly noticeable, but it was there). Personally, I cannot tell whether my AWD is working on not, though I have taken it up for skiing twice already up in Sierra Mts.
    Anyhow, this is not the full-time 4WD, which is on all the time (such as older Lexus RX). The AWD is on-demand. The proportion of torque sent to the rear keeps on changing in various conditions. On highway cruising, it is FWD only.
    Up to 50% torque can be sent to the rear when called for. Again, it is very hard to tell as a driver.
    (no light blinking)

    If I lived in where you live, I would spend my $$$ on snow tires first.
    Having fun in the ditch is no fun at all ... ;)
  • Help. My wife just bought a new 2010 CX-9 GT and of course we love the car. On the 2nd day she plugged her cell phone power cord into the dashboard AUX outlet an it will not come out. I have pulled it as hard as I dare but to no avail. Also, I am unable to rotate it (thought that might help). I have read elsewhere that someone recommended spraying a small amount of WD-40 into it to see if that will loosen it but I have not tried that. Should I sacrifice the charge and try to disassemble it? What happens if I pull too hard and yank out the AUX socket? Anyone have any ideas?
  • steveeaststeveeast Posts: 158
    Take it in to the Mazda dealer, looks like it might be a fairly common problem:

    http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f436/cell-phone-charger-stuck-12v-outlet-3- 6358/#post328363

  • We have the same problem but with the aux charger outlet between the front seats. We have used it before with diff phone chargers - we've had the CX9 2010 since December 24th, and this weekend was the first time we had a problem.

    The power cord is plugged in and wont come out or rotate either! And I tried for 15 minutes to get it out.

    My wife called Mazda delearship and they say they have had the issue from 4 other customers. They have to order a new part. They say that the charger will come out without damage, but they will have to replace the outlet in the car.

    Seems like this is an issue in both the outlet between the seats, and the one in the dash if you are having the same issue with the dash power outlet.
This discussion has been closed.