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New Member Thread Mazda CX-9
MazdaTechie
Member Posts: 14
Hi all,
I was invited by a fellow poster on Mazdaforum.com that goes by "howardru" back in early January. I'm a Mazda certified technician and I'm ASE certified. I'm not a master yet, but I know some stuff and have access to a lot of resources. Let me know if I can help and I'll pitch in where I can. =>
I was invited by a fellow poster on Mazdaforum.com that goes by "howardru" back in early January. I'm a Mazda certified technician and I'm ASE certified. I'm not a master yet, but I know some stuff and have access to a lot of resources. Let me know if I can help and I'll pitch in where I can. =>
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The Mazda CX-9 Maintenance and Repair discussion would probably be a good one to add to your "watch" list.
Your knowledge and professional advice is sorely needed. Glad you could join.
Cheers
Howard
Thank you
With any noise concerns, unless the description matches something I've dealt with before, I'm unable to pinpoint it over the internet, or offer much of anything that it might be. Even though I may know how everything is basically put together in an area described in/on the vehicle, it could still be literally anything in that region causing it. The truth is that for any noise for which prior research does not yet exist, I have to be able to personally drive or ride in the vehicle, hear the noise, and follow necessary troubleshooting procedures to be able to track it down.
I've seen small trim pieces, frames of center consoles, cowl grilles, wheel well liners, wheels, brake pads, backing shields, loose spark plug wires, variable valve timing actuators, glove boxes, door lock actuators, weather seals, brake booster hose brackets, bumpers, loose power steering pumps, fuel pumps, shock mounts, hubcaps, convertible latch top covers, failed sway bar bushings, customer accessories (radar detectors suctioned to windshields), wheel bearings, window sill insulation, radio brackets, electric steering lock connectors, and other things all causing various kinds of noises from squeaks to wind noise to rattles to squeaks to clunks to rubbing noises to you name it on various different Mazdas. That doesn't mean all those things always make noise. You see 100 cars, and one of them comes in with a noise on X part that all the others like it are quiet on.
My point is that unless I've dealt with it before (and sometimes even then), it's pretty critical for me to hear the noise myself and trace it down at least somewhat if I'm to offer any advice on it's source.
I'm not asking anyone to refrain from asking about noises they encounter--you don't know what I've dealt with before, and I may have encountered your noise in the past. I just want you to be aware of the circumstances that surround the question. I hope I've created no ill will. =>
If you're wanting to get Sirius and get the iPod integration module (allows iPod control from the radio), I believe there's a harness kit you can order that will allow you to effectively "daisy chain" the two so you can switch between either.
If you want the iPod integration module, last I've known you can only get it if you don't have the factory optional navigation system. That may have changed. Ask your service department (Do NOT ask sales--they'll try to sell it to you before they do any research on the matter) to be sure.
If you don't want the integration module, and just want to use your auxiliary port, just pay attention to the first paragraph in this post hehe. =>
Thanks
I'm sorry I can't be of more help to you on this one.
on the cx 9 the struts wear out at about 60,000 miles so i better buy the extended warrenty plan for 2,200 dollars 7/100,000 or all preventive maintaince plan for
2,100 6/100,000 or both for 3,300 dollars!!!! Any and all advice accepted!!!!
Struts are normal wear and tear (like tires, oil, filters etc) and are not covered by extended warranty plans. I've never hard of a preventitive maintance plan.
How many CX9s out there do you think have 60K miles on them?
Hint: CX9 came out at the end of 2006 as 2007 model.
On average, Americans drive 12-15K per year. Most 2007 CX9 would have about 25-35K on them.
Besides, you have 3 years to consider buying ext. warranty. (before your OM warranty expries)
As said, struts are not covered (most suspension elements aren't).
f7l guys love to scare you into buying warranty. That is nothing new.
a 7 /100,000 mile extended warrenty ,does that mean i will have a total of 10 years coverage..?? or still a total of 7 years from original date of purchase?? in effect an additional 4 years???
A 7yr/100K warranty is misleading. It includes the 3yr/36K from factory. Therefore, you are buying the 4yr/64K extra.
Ext warranty may not be a good investment if you MIGHT sell your CX9 before the said period (say, 7yr). Yes, they are usually transferable, but some ext warranty will ask you to sing and dance and pay $100 or more for check-up before they will let you transfer (the so-call fine-prints). I once had ext warranty on my BMW (so problematic).
To me, buying ext warranty or not is a matter of financial planning. Transfer case, transmission and MFD (multi-function display) are probably some of the most expensive items in CX9 (other than the engine). Each costs $3000 or more. When that happens, can your financial situation handles that? If yes, then, you don't need the ext warranty. If no, you could consider it. Other may argue that why not opening a CD account and put the $1700 in there to help you fix CX9 in subsequent years. Chances are that would be enough (if no major items as I listed fails).
You have to be a member too.
However if you're referring to a radiator/condenser fan under the hood, that may run to cool the motor when you turn the car off.
the windshield haze does not seem to go.
Used to my toyota...just putting full a/c on windshield removes the haze.
But not working in cx9...any suggestions ?
Thanks!
If it's not the whole windshield, and you're experiencing spots of fog at the very base of the windshield while driving in the evening that can be removed w/the wipers, there's not too much you can do about that.
Can you be more specific about this haze on your windshield?
It's spots of fog at the very base ..which was not going away .
Yes...I did use wipers..but I thought blowing full a/c on windshield should make it go away? (it happens in my toyota).
But did not.
May be i've to get used to some of the things in new car
That can happen in any vehicle with a working a/c, as long as you have the temperature blend set to cold. Here's what's going on:
You know why condensation builds up on the outside of a cold Dr Pepper/Coke/soda of your choice when it's in a warm environment? If so, you might know where I'm going with this. If not, here's why. Moisture is present in the air around us--water vapor, humidity, whatever you wish to call it. It stays as vapor in the air because the air is hot enough to keep it that way. Enter the cold soda. The temperature of the outside of the can is much much colder than the air around. As the air passes around the can, the water vapor in the air comes into contact with the can--the temperature of that water vapor is HEAVILY reduced, forcing it to turn back into a liquid--and just as with anything else, that small amount of water clings to the can.
Keep that principle in mind, and apply it to the very base of your windshield. Even when your a/c is set to blow out of the front vents at you, nothing is perfect, and most cars still let out a tiiiiny flow of air from the defrost vent at the back of the dash. As such, your a/c is essentially refrigerating the very base of your windshield. Eventually, that part of the glass can get very cold, just like the icy cold Dr Pepper can. Now while inside the car, the a/c is removing moisture from the air, it's obviously not doing that to the air outside the car. So as you're going down the road, water vapor in the outside air hits the base of your windshield. When the base of your windshield gets really cold, the water vapor hitting it converts back to a liquid, leaving condensation on the outside of the glass in the coldest areas.
Long explanation, but basically, the only way to get rid of it is to use your wipers or turn on the heat. It's just one of those things that some find annoying and others don't, but you can't really do anything about because it's just physics at work. I can assure you though, it's nothing wrong with the vehicle.
Hope that helps!
It surely helps.
I did not face it since then..so it was the weather that day..just got too concerned I guess since it was first day with my cx-9.
I work as a tech at Classic Mazda in Denton.
Thanks
If you're experiencing an abnormal noise, whether it be this or something else, I as a technician simply MUST be able to hear the noise as well, and be able to hear it at least somewhat consistently. If it's intermittent and I have to drive for a little while or try different road qualities, or do something totally out of the ordinary to make it happen, that's fine. But if it doesn't happen at all, or only happens once, there is NOTHING for me to go by in order to fix it.
The sad truth is that sometimes, the problem has to get worse in order for me to track it down.
Example: A wonderful customer of mine has a 2006 Tribute. He's been experiencing a buzzing noise somewhere in the steering column. The first time he came in for it, we rode together and could not duplicate it. I explained to him in my typical fashion the same ideas I've expressed above. He understood. I took care of his other maintenance and issues on that visit, and sent him on his way. The next time he came in, he stated the noise had become more consistent. We rode again, and I, albeit faintly and intermittently, could hear it. But it was enough to begin the chase. After a day and a half of digging, turns out it was literally in the steering column itself--not anything attached to it, and nothing else transferring the noise into it.
The point is, I'm only able to troubleshoot a problem I can reproduce, and that goes the same for every technician out there. If you find an auto technician that promises to fix a problem he can't duplicate, except for VERY few exceptions, he's lying to you, or overconfident.
I say very few exceptions. These exceptions come in the form of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). In the case of a TSB, even then the manufacturer typically asks the technician to duplicate the problem first. But there are some where it will not be possible. For example, we've had issues with the occasional A/C freezing up on long trips. Mazda is aware that a technician cannot test drive the customer's vehicle in a "long trip" fashion to duplicate an A/C freeze-up. However they released a TSB to address the issue, and literally said to perform the repair based on the customer's description of the problem (but still stating 'if system operates normally').
I just searched for TSBs with the symptoms you described. The closest one refers to a low pitch squeak/chirp heard from the front suspension or dashboard, and instructs to replace the strut top mounting rubber on the offending side. However nothing came up for a knocking noise.
I know this reply is lengthy, but I'm hoping I can at least be clear. The truth is, rare/almost non-existent are the noises that never get worse with time and use of the vehicle. If you come in and you can't make the noise happen for the tech one time, just come in again when it gets more consistent, or on a day where it's just happening like crazy. In other words, KEEP TRYING, and any good, honest technician will KEEP TRYING WITH YOU. Every Mazda dealer technician has several resources (people and in print) at his disposal in addition to his skill to fix the issue if he can duplicate it. If you continue to come in, eventually (and if it's something serious, probably sooner than you think), you and the technician WILL be able to duplicate it, and he/she WILL be able to chase it down. As that time approaches, you'll also learn more and more on how to specifically duplicate it. Hot weather/cold weather, warmed up vehicle or dead cold first thing in the morning, the description you gave, etc. And the more specific descriptors you give, the better off you and the dealer will be. Your service advisor should be probing for details, but my advice to you is to provide them without being asked, and try to ensure he/she acknowledges you and notes them down. Not all service advisors will make the effort on their own, unfortunately.
Summary: No matter what the noise is, if it can't be reproduced on your service visit (be it driving it, revving the motor, hitting the area it's coming from, or whatever method works), there's no humanly possible way for a technician to even know where to begin to try to fix it, much less find the source of it. But if you work with the dealer (and in turn the technician) by returning again whenever you can make it happen best, or when it gets worse, or what have you, I/we/they WILL fix your car.
And if you come in during your warranty for the noise, but we can't reproduce it until your warranty has expired, I've seen it happen multiple times where that issue will still be honored under warranty simply because you experienced it during that time.
So please, don't lose hope.
AWD + Yoko-Spec-X tires
FWD + extra set of snow tires
IMHO, it boils down to which one you value?
Fun?
Safety?
AWD helps you to get going, snow tires help stopping.
The choice is very personally.
Of course, you you have the money, AWD + snow tires is the best combo.
AWD gives you 1-2mpg less, and probably more problems down the road with shaft, transfer case, coupling device, etc.
Yoko-Spec-X is the best AS (all-season) tires for CX9. No doubt about that.
The users' top rating on tirerack.com cannot be overlooked.
Unlike the one I experienced on Pilot (which gives a clutch feel when it engadges - thought bearly noticeable, but it was there). Personally, I cannot tell whether my AWD is working on not, though I have taken it up for skiing twice already up in Sierra Mts.
Anyhow, this is not the full-time 4WD, which is on all the time (such as older Lexus RX). The AWD is on-demand. The proportion of torque sent to the rear keeps on changing in various conditions. On highway cruising, it is FWD only.
Up to 50% torque can be sent to the rear when called for. Again, it is very hard to tell as a driver.
(no light blinking)
If I lived in where you live, I would spend my $$$ on snow tires first.
Having fun in the ditch is no fun at all ...
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f436/cell-phone-charger-stuck-12v-outlet-3- 6358/#post328363
Steve.
The power cord is plugged in and wont come out or rotate either! And I tried for 15 minutes to get it out.
My wife called Mazda delearship and they say they have had the issue from 4 other customers. They have to order a new part. They say that the charger will come out without damage, but they will have to replace the outlet in the car.
Seems like this is an issue in both the outlet between the seats, and the one in the dash if you are having the same issue with the dash power outlet.