Buick LeSabre Engine help

livingfree

I have a 1998 buick lesabre body style k. It has a 3.8v.3800 series 2 engine in it.Wondering if i could put a 3800 series 2 with supercharged in. To replace the old one.If so do i need to change anything like trans or anything eals to fit the 3800 spercharged.Any help would be good.

macksugar

I bought a 1976 LeSare two years ago from my grandpa....it was wrecked with frame damage so i decided to pull engine and transplant it into another LaSabre. I want it to be original but can't seem to figure out what size engine it is. Can someone help me?

imidazol97

I assume it's a V8. I think the V6 showed up 1977.
LeSabre Custom had 350 standard and 455 optional.

dewc3

I have a 1997 Buick lasabre Limited and I took it to get the oil changed, and the tech came to get me and showed me some oil on the bolts of the intake manifold and he wasnt completely sure if the oil was coming from the intake or the valve covers. The valve cover bolts are also oily and I have lost a little more than a quart of oil over a longgggg period of time. I was also told by another source that If my intake was leaking then the car would not run very well, is this true? The car runs like a scalded cat...lol runs very well...So I figure I would use degreaser on these areas before I go into any major work on it myself. Does anyone have instructions to taking the intake manifiold off if it ends out to be that, I have never taken one off this car and I am determined not to pay the 400 labor these idiots want, so I need help on how to get this off if anyone has instructions. But I also need feedback on whether the car would run right or not if the intake manifold was leaking :mad:

imidazol97

If there is oil in the low spots it comes up the threads of certain bolts after aging. I'd have to research just which and where, but it is common. Dry it out with paper towels and see if it's all oil or contains coolant. If it is coolant, I'd still not worry. I have two sitting out there and both have seeped a little oil into those areas. If you're using a quart of oil in 1500 miles or longer, you're fine. A little seeps around the valve cover seals on some cars and a little seeps on the oil pan gasket after aging on some cars. Not worth trying to fix.

What's the mileage on the car and whether you've owned it since new. If the DexCool was changed out after two years or 36000 miles all through its life, you're in better shape than if ANY coolant were left in to age.

If the coolant hasn't been changed, drain it now and refill with DexCool or Prestone Mixes with any color type coolant. If you are not losing coolant more than a trivial amount in a couple weeks or month of driving hundreds of miles, there's no problem. The upper intake can be replaced easily by someone with mechanical skills. You have to keep track of bolts and screws. Many shops have done enough that they are rather quick and the price is not near $400 labor. I'd guess at $250 for a 5-hour job to do upper only with $99 for a quality, APN replacement including new gaskets.

I can give you more info if you're interested, but don't let the slight amount of coolant over years scare you without definite indications of internal or external leaks.

dewc3

Thank you for your reply but actually I am not losing any coolant at all. Its only oil on the valve cover on backside of firewall and the front valve cover. I had a new intake manifold put on several months back and maybe thats why the bolts look like something was leaking, prob after they put it on. I keep a check on radiator and I am full to the rim since the intake was fixed, so maybe I just have valve cover gasket leaking up front and backside.
I also have another problem going on if you can give me feedback on it also. several months back I replaced my rotors and put on new brakes because when I would brake, the front left tire would shake like it was coming off. After I put on the brakes and rotors it seem to stop alot compared to what it was doing, but then that same crap started again. Now the car shakes and shimmies when I am coming to a stop. I have inspected the front end parts and everything seems to be the way it suppose to be, nothing is loose and looks good so I am stumped. Can calipers if they are bad cause this kind of shaking? I know this is a double question and I respect what info I can get.....thankyou....Joey :confuse:

imidazol97

My suggestion is don't try to tighten the valve covers. I read about people having trouble with leaks and wanting to stop it. They remove the covers and put on new gaskets. On one version of the motor there's something that blocks one bolt on the back cover IIRC.

Calipers give more trouble. They drag. Heat up the rotor then when you step on the brake it's already hot and warping. If you don't mind spending a little, get rebuilt calipers and put them on both sides and be done. Otherwise you have to try to clean up and figure out what's dragging, the piston or the bolt slides. The bolt slides have rubber sleeves that go inside the ears of the calipers. The inside of the caliper ears corrode and shrink which squeezes the rubber which makes them drag. You can replace calipers without new pads and without new rotors. You might find your rotor isn't damaged.

mrsjudkins

I have a 1991 Buick LeSabre and I have to put water in the radiator several times a day, but the engine never runs hot. When you start the car you can see the water leaking out of the side of the engine where the plugs are. I haven't been able to get anyone to tell me exactly what the problem is. Is there anyone here that can help me?

stephen987

There are several possibilities. Without being able to see exactly where the water is coming from, I can't really tell you for sure. Can you describe exactly where it seems to be leaking?

bob252

OK.But the one thing a lot of people seem to miss is actualy the front BRAKE HOSE.for some reason there is a condition caused by the brake fluid which deteriorates the hose only allowing one direction of the fluid, and that is a lock up, it won't return and causes the caliper to remain in the pressure position, it is easy to tell by grabbing the hose at the caliper, you will feel the resistance. Another way to check this is to have someone step on the pedal while observing the caliper for retraction after it is released. This should not require a lot of work, the only problem potential here is the bleeder.Hopefully it isn't frozen. This situation has fooled a lot of people. hope this helps.

imidazol97

When you say it's where the plugs are, I assume that's the spark plugs you're talking about. It could be one of the core plugs which some people call freeze plugs. They are metal discs that are forced fitted into the hole in the block where the machining was done. They can rust away and start leaking. They can be removed and a replacement fitted in but driving the new metal plug in.

There are some that are not solid metal like the original but are rubber edges and are put in place and then tightened which swells them out to make a force fit sealing the hole.

livingfree

can anyone help me with the organial question.or do we keep adding on nothing to do with it.

stephen987

We've been trying to help you, but since you haven't answered any of our questions we haven't been able to narrow the problem down.

bob252

Hello, I hoe that this comes to you, yesterday I posted a solutionfor the $1600 Brake job, don't know how it came to you...but, look at the reply in this section if it is your question about a water leak..is that yours? if so his reply is correct, hopefully you will be able to access the expansion plug and use his advice, if that is the situation...Bob.

bob252

I am sorry this situation is being redirected to me, not to this post! the individual is responding to me, I posted a reply for a brake problem yesterday, not to this post.AGAIN I DID NOT REQUEST < I replied to assist..hope he or she is reading. Bob.

imidazol97

First I've not heard of someone doing this.
Second the 3800 supercharged never came in the LeSabre so I suspect it would be a real problem to put one it.
You'd be better buying a Park Avenue or Bonneville with the supercharged motor in it already.

That's my opinion.

You could look at the motor mounts on a supercharged Park Avenue or Bonneville and see if they appear to be the same as the 98 leSabre. I would assume a change in computer would be required for the PCM and some other controls may need to be added for the supercharger portion.

The transmission is different for the supercharger version. I don't know exactly what those are but I recall one is related to the stovepipe connector engaging 4th gear. I believe they said in 03 all got the sturdier piece.

I assume the transmission includes the final gearing pieces which may be different for the standard leSabre than the supercharger versions (higher ratio for more power rather than cruising and economy).

I apologize that I didn't realize your question hadn't been answered. I recall reading it and thinking I don't have much if any direct knowledge.

If you send an email to my carspace account from your carspace email account (carspace is in the upper left corner where it says "my carspace") and I'll link you to some pages where enthusiasts have done such things and you can ask questions and search for previous posts.

17thabn

If your overflow flucuates and you are adding coolant and see none on the ground,your intake EGR tube has burned thru the plastic plenum and releasing
coolant into your cylinders and will cause hydrostatic lock,ruin of main bearings,total destruction of engine if not fixed.Mechanics charge $800-1400 to fix.You can do it for less than $100.You will find directions on KenCo.com.I bought
replacement plenum from RockAuto.com(best price anywhere).1 footnote when
you get the black plenum off you will be looking at the top of the intake manifold,
you will see a piece of 5/8 pipe sticking out about 2 inches tall.This has to come
out,you will get a new one in the kit,take a large pair of locking pliers,lock on from the top and rock forward and back and it will come out.After that follow directions included in the kit.Took my time(slow)16 hrs.Saved Big Money.Wish you luck,and this is not hard.

imidazol97

The loss of coolant may be due to other causes than the intakes. The intake problem was helped in 1999 when the size of the EGR tube was reduced leaving more airspace between it and the ABS plastic around it.

There are several things that can leak coolant. There are angled tubes connecting the LIM to the tensioner pulley bracket that carries coolant to the heater. The water pump can leak without showing a dribble until it gets bad. You can have leaks around the seals between the UIM and LIM which seal the tubes carrying coolant into the UIM and to the throttle body. There also are leaks at the gasket with the throttle body. The radiator hoses can seep. The radiator itself can seep. The tube connecting the reservoir to the radiator can seep. The reservoirs develop cracks and leak.

The loss of coolant requires troubleshooting. One thing to watch is for large amounts of water on the oil cap. Small amounts occur normally. Another is to check the gallery under the oil filler while it's off. Change of color in the oil on the dipstick right after driving to a milky look indicates moisture in coolant.

The treatment of the cooling system early in the car's life is a factor. Not changing DexCool very 2 - 3 years causes more problems, especially if the car were not driven often and heating the coolant above 140 def. F.

One tip is clean off the underside of the radiator cap so the one way check valve works correctly. It often gets gooped up.

The 2000 on motors have a much lower problem rate with intake leaks.

17thabn

I agree with your assesment of the cooling system,but for those whose EGR tube
has burned thru and looking at a good size bill,this was the way to go.That was an
inherent design flaw from GM and they didn't start putting on the redisigned plenum and tube till 2005.Even now there is a class action suit against GM.Still from 2000-2005 they are still burning thru.Even on the plenum you can read when
it was made from day,month,year.Look at the coin size circle on the plenum,the arrow points to 1-31days,95-?year-and 1-12Month it was made.

cfd110

I have a 1991 Lesabre on the drivers side of the engine is a black plunger with a cable running to it also on the side is 2 hoses the one on top is smaller than the one on top. The cable is broken off along with the larger hose. The engine will turn over but not start. I need to replace the plunger part what is the name of this part.

imidazol97

> and they didn't start putting on the redisigned plenum and tube till 2005

That is wrong. The LIM and EGR metal tube that came with it were reduced in 1999/2000 from GM. Other suppliers of intake manifold uppers shipped with their replacement uppers a metal tube that replaced the one in the lower intake manifold that had a reduced diameter allowing more air space around it for the incoming air to flow and keep things cooler. There are failures of EGR areas after that but they are fewer. It's sort of like Honda's problems with transmissions and toyota's with engine/transmission shifting problems, they never get completely cured. It is a design weakness.

I think you may be confusing the Series III motor which had a metal UIM which has been used for a few years, perhaps it started in 2005.

People still confuse the issues. There are NO suits re the upper intake manifold deterioration of which I'm aware. If you have a link, please supply it. There WAS a class suit re DexCool which ended in October IIRC. The DexCool allegedly deteriorated gasket materials allowing seeps. This is NOT the EGR area leaking through the crystallized ABS. The DexCool is an improved coolant and provides excellent protection in systems with multiple metals and the electromotive force they may generate leading to corrosion. However some people believed the 5-year and 100,000 mi meant they could add green antifreeze (old formula) and not change out the DexCool. Also the DexCool apparently underwent forumula changes early in it's life. That improved the protection of the gaskets. Earlier DexCool had an antioxidant that deteriorated when the coolant was abused which allowed bacteria or chemistry to deteriorate the nylon-66 gasket material. Hence the apparent success of the DexCool class action lawyers--who will make more on the deal than any GM owners will make.

Plenums from other manufacturers do not use the circle method for dating their manifold. I'm not sure where, if any, date appears on replacement from the various companies.

17thabn

The issue of the class action suit,if there wasn't one there should have been one
because of the millions of cars from GM fron 95-98 didn't have the "Redesigned"
plenum and smaller tube.That took anywhere from 4 to 6 years to show up.What about all the cost to the owners of those cars??If the plenum on your car is the ORGINAL, it has the month,date,and year on it when it was made.The new plenums do no have the date of manufacture on them. So if it was made 95-98 you got a burner.The only thing I was trying to do was to inform the little guy about repairing his car without getting shafted by cost of this repair.So you acknowledge it was a design flaw.Great.Have you changed yours yet??Or do you work for GM??

djc7

The car has been dying; it spent 4 days at one garag & he could not find anything he suggested another garage with more computer technology. Spent 5 days there they replaced the Mass air flow sensor picked up car drove it about 20 miles and the car started dying again. It will start back up may run a little while or may die immediately. It kind of back fires when it starts back up. Of course this happened after the garage had closed and it is closed on Saturdays. A new fuel pump has been put on the car; new plugs etc. Can someone give me an idea what this could be. It cost $311. today and the car and I will be there first thing Monday morning.
thanks,
DC

17thabn

I would replace the fuel filter and then the fuel pressure regulator.Probably $150.

bob252

Hi, I am concerned that there is something wrong at this site, I have had many replies to someone else's question, and that is not helping them! somehow due to my posting a "helpful" reply about $1600 Brake job...well from there I get replies about fuel, engine, etc. and they are accurate...but I did not reqest anything...Hope people are reading this.there is some kind of misdirection at this site. But thank the helpful people here..they are great..Bob.

djc7

Thanks, but the fuel regulartor and fuel filter has replaced twice; the regulator was under warranty so made them replace it since it was acting like it was not getting gas and then replaced the filter again but it was not stopped up that time either.

imidazol97

I don't know much about the earlier engines before 1992. I do recall MAF sensor problems caused many difficulties or something like that. I believe a test was tapping ont he MAF sensor with a screwdriver handle and if it made the engine skip or be uneven, the MAF was a problem.

Yours could be connections to the spark system and coils Could be fuel pressure.

You need to have a test spark plug and when it kicks out put a spark plug on one wire and lay it on the metal part of the motor. Have someone crank the motor and see if it has spark at the beginning before it fires.

If you can put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and drive it and watch to see if the fuel pressure drops when it stalls would be a big help. Duct tape the gauge to the windshield. The replacement fuel pump may be giving problems. The Delco replacements are best. My garage would only use a Delco because they had many return problems with other brands.

Crankshaft position sensors are a popular replacement item--not that we like doing things just because they're popular, but it's something to watch. The fact the car starts right back up after stalling makes it a problem to troubleshoot. The backfire doesn't help me much.

Karen_S

If you enabled the "watch this discussion" with the email alert option, you will receive an email whenever any new comments are added to the discussion. They may not be directed to you personally.

vanderbar

I have a 93 LeSabre, 3.8, 145K miles. Yesterday I just took a look to the oil level, and found fresh, more or less concentric oil leak signs under the cylinder head, forward cylinder line...I guess it is bad...The car is in good shape, runs well no sign of any problem and like it.
Just I would ask for your opinion.
What should I expect?
Thanks

imidazol97

I don't quit follow what you mean by under the cylinder head. I do know that valve covers do start leaking more with age. Do some cleaning and then rechecking with good lighting to see where the oil is coming from.

The valve covers are problematic as far as resealing. You might tighten lightly, but it's not going to cure it most likely. Removing, cleaning, new gaskets, probably are required.

You didn't happen to run synthetic oil in it? That often supposedly opens seeps and causes leaking.

vanderbar

imidazol97, I rechecked as you mentioned. It is not under the cylinder head, but from the inlet manifold itself. Hm. Plus, the two trans hoses going from the trans to the cooler, they seep/leak...
I run it with mineral oil, no synthetic.

imidazol97

If it's under the bottom ends of the lower, metal, intake manifold, I believe those have some seeps around the seals that go across the ends if not installed right or after lots of age. If it's not bad, I'd sure just live with it.

Where are the trans lines leaking? Through the rubber? AT the ends with the metal parts? Where they screw onto the radiator? Is it transmission fluid on them for sure and not oil from the upper part of the motor?

vanderbar

I opened the clamps from the lines, cleaned the hoses, repositioned, clamps and after some days of driving, looks good... :-) Thank you.

gds52383

Hi I have a 98 Lesabre with 120k on it. Recently the check engine light came on and started flashing. I took it to advance auto where it was tested and it came back misfire on cylinder 4. I decided to get a new set of spark plugs and change them. I found out it had the original plugs in it. It runs alot better and the check engine light has went off, however, it still hesitates on acceleration and sometimes jerks around 55 mph. I don't think that the problem has been completley solved although it runs alot better. The wires look fine. Could it be the high voltage distributor caps? Any ideas on what I should check? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

~Greg

imidazol97

I responded in the other discussion to this question.

dewc3

I was wondering how difficult it is to replace the oil pan gasket on a 1997 buick lasabre limited? I have looked at the oil pan and it seems that all I have to do is take off the bolts without having to jack the motor up . Just want to make sure it comes off that easy since nothing on this year is easy to replace...lol :shades:

bob252

OK..This is hopefuly helping you, I have done this and you are correct (simple) #1 remove the plastic shield at the starter (don't remove any more bolts there) (don't forget to drain the oil first HA HA) then remove the bolts on the pan and carefully spin the pan around to #2 remove the bolts from the oil pickup from the oil pump, (2 of them) pull it out and the pan will fall down...I have no idea of why you should have to remove the pan as my 95 had a really thick 1/3 in. plastic gasket on it and I reused it. (225000 mi. preventative maintanance rod bearings) I had an oil leak prior to this but it was from the oil pressure sending unit, another easy job. Sold the car w/ 250000 miles on it with the factory exhaust transmission axles etc. still working fine...How much can they go before something does break? I sold it for $200 to a happy home without any feeling of guilt.

donicar

I have a 92 LeSabre 3.8 that has the rear freeze plug missing. I guess someone else replaced it and didn't get it in right. How can I put a new one in without pulling the engine or tranny? If I use a rubber one, how long will it last?
donicar

polara60

Over a year ago I was given a 95 Le Sabre for free. Not in bad shape and has a solid repair history and 147,000mi. The AC has never worked. Now it clear the AC compressor is dying...noise and metal shavings below on the frame..clutch issue I am guessing. I really do not want to buy a new compressor and would rather just bypass the AC. In searching the internet there have been several posts saying that its possible with a 70.5" belt v. the standard 102" belt. Another more sensible option is an bypass pulley and remove the AC compressor

I would really value some expert perspective and any experiences other owners might share.

My sincere thanks in advance!

Bob

bob252

OK These posts are difficult to respond to...due mostly IE 6..(my second attempt).In regard to dismantling the belt forget it...know that the clutch is the problem. There is at the rear part of the belt at the top of the compressor, a plug there, undo it. Then start the engine to see if the clutch is still engaged, if not you are all done. If it still is trying to engage then let it finish tearing itself up untill it cannot engage. I had the same problem with my 95 at 201000, I replaced the complete compressor as it was a lot more cost effective. Do not attempt removing the compressor and attempt a belt resizing it will firstly set a computer code (the light on the dash-"check engine") and try to figure the belt routing???? Really the only real worry you have is the bearing inside of that clutch assembly..if it seizes then you have a problem..Hope this helps.

polara60

bob252,

Thanks for your thoughts and IE6 struggles! So got the idea that rerouting the belt makes the engine timing unhappy. So first see if I can unplug the AC Compressor to disengage the clutch with the AC compressor becoming a stand-in pulley. I am concerned about the possibility of seizing. Something in the clutch assembly is creating metal shavings and dropping on the frame below.

Have you ever installed a bypass AC pulley like this as option B?...

AC Bypass Pulley

Thanks so much!

bob252

Hi..I will hope that in this forum that the Buick area will acknowlege this. As pertaining to the A/C clutch assembly and the clutch BEARING they are 2 different situations...the bearing will make a "rod rap" from where it is...then it can continue for a whole lot of miles...the sound can continue to many areas of confusion...do not Junk the car for this reason, but be aware of the situation..that sound is confusing , but, it is the last noise that will continue to confuse the knowlegeable tech. and also been there done that....If the clutch wants to engage due to the low refrigeret level...(due to the age of the vehicle) Then it will not disengage...guess what happens?...no more clutch!..Then it attempts to PERMANENTLY stay engaged...End result...yeah metal shavings below the fan belt on the frame below it. I have an Olds doing the same thing...Mileage is important...Knowlege is supportive...Junkyard low milage parts are cheaper than the replacement clutch assembly. (You Still Have to Recharge anyway) there is no other way..hope this helps.....

bob252

If you see this again go direct to my E-Mail...save everybody...

imidazol97

Check here for a tutorial on changing out the compressor and getting a bypass pulley in. The job looks doable if you have the right tools. As for a shorter belt shortcutting the AC compressor, I don't understand why it would turn on a check engine light. I suspect something else got affected in the work, like sometimes happens.

I believe yours is a Series II which requires opening the stud spacer on the motor mount... lots of folks in Bonnevilles have done lots of things with their cars.

goesman

Hi,
I have a 1997 Buick LeSabre (3.8L) with 187K miles. I've changed the oil & oil filter religiously every 4-5K miles. I recently had an oil leak fixed. The oil sending unit was the culprit and was replaced. So no more oil leak. However, now I see a symptom I've never seem before. The oil pressure will fall nearly into the red at idle after car has been driven for awhile and is nice and warm. Was wondering if this condition points to the recently replaced oil sending unit or could it be the oil pump on its way out? I am going to change the oil and oil filter again (I did it just before I had the leak fixed). I thought maybe something clogged up the oil filter. Any other ideas and/or suggestions. Thanks.

no_car_note

Ok my in take gasket warped and water ended up on my spark plugs. The car stalled out and shut down. Oh check engine light came on before the car died.

The water was drained from the engine and new plugs were put in as well as wires. It was hard to start the car and it tried to shut off on me as it sputters and shutters.

New the problems. I though was cared for after the vac line was changed, plugs and wires rechecked and a gas line cleaning as well as a TPS censor.

Now the car does not want to take hills, it surges when I put on breaks, the car pulls funny at 50 to 53 miles an hour and it shutters a nod sputters still as if it wants to cut off on me and finally the engine made a strange revving up noise when I went to shut it off after driving 20 miles to work

imidazol97

What caused your intake gasket problem? Are you meaning a head gasket leaked? That usually comes from overheating the car.

Are you saying the upper intake manifold gasket leaked? You need to tell us what year car and how many miles are on it and what has been done in the way of repairs in the past.

If water got into the cylinders, then it will do that again. The coolant will hurt the bearings in the motor so driving it without fixing it is asking for an early trip the junkyard with a blown or ruined motor.

no_car_note

The intake gasket had warped and water was on spark plugs.The car did not over heat the gasket, filter and intake. I can not describe it anymore because the autoshop did not provide me with any more information than what I gave you. After this was taken care of the car cranks and runns but it does not like to take hills and it shutters and sputters from time to time like it wants to stall out. It pulls hard when the car get to 51 to 53 miles per hour. and some times it rvveis up really hard befor it hits 30 miles per hour.

I hade thing ran for codes and I got a po102 MAf or VAf check low air intake. PO121 Throttle Pedal

and a PO122

bob252

Hi, If you ignore the intake manifold replacement, you are doomed...the plastic unit that comes from the factory has a flaw...which is corrected by replacement after market part (yes I would look for that at Autozone...if there is one nearby, I did that for my current car ( the part is about $128) There is 2 scenerios here, #1, is really death to the engine, as it will (at highway speed) attempt to compress water that it sucks into the intake, (and liquids cannot be compressed) and in second the engine will self destruct...like explde..(not like an explosion) but,you can kiss the engine goodbye...#2 is less problematic, but not your situation, it results in so much oil under the intake that it causes loss of oil (unidentified)..it can be observerd when the intake is removed..(a whole lot of oil on the underneath of the plenum) which is the part that you are replacing., and in that instance there will be alittle smoke when you start your car.So in the end you need either to be competant enough to perform this removal, or to find a certified tech to do the job, (if that person knows how to perform this it really takes about 2-3 hours) In reality, if unknowlegable 2-3 Days...really due to all of the nuts and bolt involved depending on all of the really necessary and unecessary bolts that either do or not need to be removed...I guess that you get the idea???? Other than that if the vehicle has had good care and it is otherwise in good condition...go for it...Hope this HELPS

no_car_note

The intake gasket, and filter were changed whether the person had a clue as to what they were doing is beyond me. How do I check to see if the job was completed correctly?

no_car_note

Ok I have my bill this is what each shop did.

Shop one:Replaced Intake, gasket, filter, and thermostat

The car still ran bad it acted like it wanted to stall. It sputtered and spat and shuttered
So I went to a second shop.
Shop 2 replaced: TPS, plugs and wires, cleaned fuel injection system, RR Vac line and oil change.

The Check engine light came on about 30min after I left the shop. The car does not like to take hills and it pulls when I get up too about 51 to 53 miles an hour.

Is there a dummy check I can do, to catch something that might be simple?