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Comments
Thanks,
Sven
1993 Ford Aerostar 2 Dr XL Passenger Van Extended
You'll have to add in all the accessories to get a close estimation of the price.
Hope this helps!
KarenS/Vans host
recall relative to problem under the dashboard. supposedly requires removal of dashboard to correct an electrical problem. anyone with info please advise.
Check out this site for information on recalls.
http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/recalls.html
Hope this helps!
KarenS/Vans host
thanks
Kim
I own a '92 Aerostar XL with electronic 4WD. It's got 99,500 miles on it and it just keeps going. It was our first experience with a minivan (if you can call all that room mini!) and we've virtually been problem free. It now needs new rollers for the slider door, but with 3 growing boys what can you expect? We are just now thinking of selling it and going to another 4WD van, obviously not a Ford, they don't make one! We are considering a Chevy/GMC Astro/Safari. The mileage per gallon isn't as good, we get about 20-22 with the Aerostar, but we're ready for something new(er). We're asking $5000 if anyone is interested...sticker value is $6200. Thanks Edmunds by the way, your sticker is in my window!
That was 3 wks ago. Tomorrow we pick up our new Odessey EX! The wait was only 2 months. The Aerostar I'll give to charity for the tax writeoff. I'll never do business with Ford again.
The Accord I expect to sell for a profit. For all you suckers that buy WindStars, I truly feel sorry.
Ok, I have to pay for $5000 in dealer installed options above the MSRP to get it but it's worth the price. Leather Interior, full floor carpeted mats, 6-CD changer, Towbar and Xmssn cooler, security system, roof rack crossbars, misc trim and leather steering wheel cover etc, etc. All stuf I wanted but wouldn't splurge for if they didn't make me!
My experience has been just the opposite. 1993 extended, rear wheel drive, 4.0L engine. The first 75K miles were business, I purchased it for personal use after the lease was up. Currently it has 117,000 miles with no major problems. Had a front brake job at about 90K, flex pipe on the exhaust ($100) about the same time. Still on the original plugs, battery and belts and hoses. I did change the trans fluid every 40K. I tow a 18ft. boat in the summer and two snowmobiles in the winter. I broke the plastic driver's door handle once while forcing it open after an ice/snow storm and the rear hatch mechanism rusted out and had to be replaced. I've been very pleased with the Aerostar and apparently very lucky as well.
I have noticed that it is running hotter this summer while towing with the air running than it did last summer. I recently had the cooling system flushed and filled, hopefully that will cure that potential problem.
Went to change the water pump (blew out the weep hole diaphragm), and decided to change the belts and hoses too.
Problem: The alternator, A/C, fan belt that is recommended by any parts store is at least 4 or 5 inches too long!! This is based on the "proper' routing of the belt in the Haynes manual. If you're familiar with this Aerostar, it shows to have the belt go around the alternator, around THE TOP of the idler pulley (V-grooves down), and around the fan pulley down to the A/C.
Using this routing, it will leave at least 3 inches too much belt with the alternator adjusted out as far as it will go. I got a belt 2 inches shorter, routed the belt UNDER the idler pulley (V-grooves up), and promptly fractured my water pump housing all around the shaft. (I suspect from the added stress of belt being wrapped around approximately 250 degrees of the water pump/fan pulley). Well, I've got my new water pump, a belt that is 5 inches shorter, and I'm going to route it as the manual shows. Wish me luck, or ADVICE FREELY ACCEPTED.
Notes: Haynes calls for a 64 inch belt.
I used a 62 inch belt to trash my water pump.
I'm using a 59 inch belt now.
62 inch belt episode wouldn't allow the A/C pulley to turn, lot's of slippage.
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
1. Thermostat needs to be replaced.
2. AC failure sometimes.
3. The car starting to shake when we start the car.
That's all. It needs to be tow to a repair shop. It only have 54,000 miles in it. Anybody has that kind of problem like I have.
Anyone had experience with diagnosing / repairing this problem? It is likely to be the gauge itself, the wiring, or the sender unit? Or, is it that the float in the sender unit may have developed a leak and has sunk to the bottom of the fuel tank?
Believe it or not,I have not had any ac. problems with the dual front/read ac. system. In the heat of the summer the interior of the van will actually get brrrr cold. Now that I've bragged about it, watch the damned thing go south tomorrow.
No trans. work on the 4 sp.auto w/od. I've never changed the trans fluid. Still nice and red, no trace of burning. In "96" I towed a 2000# pop up camping trailer every other weekend from Massachusetts to New Hampshire; a total of 3 hours each way, from May to October. Van never even hiccuped. Still have the plugs, rotor, wires etc. that were in it when I bought it.
No oil leaks, no tranny leaks. Change the oil and filter every 5K to 6K miles. Use nothing but Mobil 1, 5W30. I use regular gas and add a quality gas treatment every 3K to 4K miles.
I replaced the front brake pads with premium pads about a year ago. They are still working great. Didn't bother cutting the rotors. They looked good, and I have had trouble in the past with brake jobs on other vehicles when I cut the rotors.
I replaced the exhaust system about 2 months ago because the expansion joint had failed. I put on a new Ford factory welded system because it was cheaper than a quality aftermarket component system.
I replaced the tie rod ends and aligned the front end about 6 months ago.
About the only real problem I have had is with water pumps. So far I have replaced 3 pumps.
I was going to trade the van in this fall, but hey it's paid for, I like driving it, so I have decided to drive it at least through the winter and clock 100,000 miles on it.
this along with the valve cover gaskets was $325.
I can't imagine what the dealer would have charged for all of this work, maybe $3,000 plus. The one nagging problem I do have is a vibration that nobody can pinpoint, so far I have eliminated the Tires, wheels, driveshaft,front suspension, it is a total mystery, anybody have any ideas? Anyway I do like the van the AWD is great in the snow, but it seems to have big ticket repairs more often than I would like. also I never bring a vehicle to the dealer after the warrenty runs out, way to expensive, also you can get some real hacks at the dealerships, try and find a good (honest) local mechanic and bring it there, and save 40-50% over the dealerships. Example: last week a coworker had a leak in in his heater core ( 93Taurus wagon), He called the dealer they wanted $800, he called a mechanic he knew the price was $425 for the same job, i have had similar experiences.
Samiam3, a good tire dealer could answer that for you. Many times Michelins have a lot of road noise, I have heard that. You can type "tire" in the search box, and see if anyone can help in the topics about tires.
Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
miles and still looks and runs good. It has been in the transmission shop 4weeks of the last 5. Seems not to want to shift into 2nd periodically.
The shop is fixing to put another rebuilt trans in as it is under warranty and they can't locate problem to fix it. Any suggestions? Anybody out there exceeded 200,000 miles on this model?
How is the condition of the radiator? Can they test the water pump also?
Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
Two examples are pretty important, because what seemed like major problems were solved pretty easily, at least temporarily.
1. At about 60k I had the trans fluid changed, maybe for the first time. The next day the trans started slipping badly. The shop fiddled with it but no success. THEN,after a few months, I took it to one of those places that do a 100% fluid change. It has not slipped again in 40k miles. It is a bit slow shifting in cold weather, but that is a different problem and not a big deal yet.
2. For a couple years we had another problem of front end chatter. I could not find the problem but I knew it was mostly when turning and breaking at the same time. I never did find the problem, but when I needed new tires I thought I would try switching to smaller tires in hopes of helping a real tendency for the engine to ping. It did not help the pinging at all, but the front end has not chattered since (a few thousand miles).
3. I still wish I could solve the pinging problems. I use at least 92 octane and it is okay, but still pings sometimes even on that.
Anyone have any luck with solving a pinging problem?
Terry
My experience with the Ford 3.0 liters is that they will start to ping under moderate load unless you periodically add a HIGH QUALITY fuel system treatment, and follow the mfg. directions with the product. If engine is mechanically OK you should be able to go back to using regular gas after the treatments. Hope this helps.
We would have to shift to neutral to clear. After spending $1300 for a rebuilt transmission by a reputable mechanic, we still have the same problem. Mechanic has had it for 4 weeks now, supposedly going thru trans with fine tooth comb. Last guess was copper shavings in the governor area. Anything this mechanic might not be aware of that would put an end to transmission problem?
Other problems were:
2 new heater cores,
pinhole leaks in A/C and steering hoses,
tranny vaccuum modulator,
power window buttons falling off,
one exploding battery,
distributor cap carbon-tracked to oblivion.
(the last 2 problems were due to neglect).
Overall it's been a great vehicle, and people always seem surprised that we are "Still" driving that same car.
Currently has 140K miles and its used every day as a truck and family hauler, and it still looks good enough to drive to church on Sunday!
Sure wish Ford was still making these, we need to replace ours at some point and I can't stand the thought of a "car-like" minivan!!!
Thanks!