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Ford Aerostar



  • Hello! I've got a 93 Aerostar with 200,000 miles on it, still going strong!
    I bought the van brand new, but I've been driving it since last year, when I bought my wife a brand new Toyota Sienna. Now, the Sienna runs great, believe me, but I'm starting to think that I should have just bought a newer used Aerostar for her, instead of a new car!

    Anyway, my question is: Does anyone else have trouble changing out their alternator serpentine belts on their Aerostars? I've changed mine out 4 times, and each time it's been an extremely tight fit. In fact, I have to take out the idler wheel bolts and let it hang down in order to get the belt around it. I then tighten the three bolts one at a time. Does anyone else have this problem?
  • if you put a socket on the tentioner,the nut in the center of the pully,turning right(tight), the spring tentioner loosens the belt..
    ..a new belt can be tricky,as it's gonna be tight.
    follow the serpentine belt guide under the hood,i've had no trouble!..sounds like you're dissasembling the tentioner,where ,all ya gotta do is release the tention..
    ALSO.. after you remove the snorkel hose to the air filter(two clamps,one plug for the m.a.s.,)
    it's fairly easy to get to the belt..
    the plugs and wires are the most difficult ones i've ever replaced!!the only way to change the passenger side one's was to remove the wheel,and go in through the wheel wheel..another tip,get a stubby(one inch) wobble extention ,..i think the engineers do stuff like that on pourpose,but,just a socket and ratchet are just a hair short..??
    my -91 w/a 3.0 with 210,000 still flashes the "check engine" light..maybe it's the o-2 sensor..but,whitch one?? at $40 bucks each,i'd rather know than guess..guess i'm just cheap..
    guess i'm drivin the right truck!! it keeps starting and running!!luck to all with their's!!
  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    My flashing check engine light was an O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe. Cost me $21 and took about 10 min to change out. First came on only going through mtns and under load. Then came on steady. Ditto, the no problems starting/running.

    Only set of wires leading into plug on your exhaust near rt front wheel, as I recall. I did have to put a cheater on the wrench to break it loose, though. Easier if you can get it up in the air on a rack.
  • I've seen a 1996 Aerostar van that I'm thinking of buying. I'll be getting the VIN number from the owner and will do a Carfax check on it. The van has 115k on the clock...owner says she's had a new transmission put in it, but can't remember when that occurred (owner out of town right now and all paperwork is at her house). The van appears in great shape - everything seems to work properly and there's never been any bodywork, never in an accident - it looks clean! Does anyone have any thoughts/comments about things I should look out for? Potential nightmares waiting to happen? Any ideas on how much it should cost to replace timing chain and major belts and pulleys? Owner says high mileage is due to her regular trips between NYC and Miami - lots of highway driving. It's been a family van, used to haul kids, skiing and camping equip. Does not appear to have suffered any abuse! I really like it, but I don't want to buy myself a headache.
    BTW, I will have a full pre-purchase check done by my regular car mechanic, but your comments & suggestions will be most welcome! Thanks!
  • dougd7dougd7 Posts: 71
    I have a 93 Aerostar that now has 180,000 miles on it. Which engine does it have? The 3.0L V6 get better mpg but strains when really loaded up. THe 4.0L is good for power but the mpg is lower. We've had to replace the water pump twice in the past two years. Guess it was bad luck. This is not an easy vehicle to work on. Changing belts, oil changes are a pain. If you can you are better off letting a garage do the normal maintenance (tune-ups, oil changes, changing belts, hoses, etc).

    Our Aerostar has served us well but has always seem to have some little problems along the way. Biggest disappointment is the interior. Several of the screws holding the interior covering on the sliding door have come off (despite constantly retightening them). That is probably my biggest pet peave. The engine and tranny have held up well. Caution on tune ups - Almost everytime I've had to replace the sparkplug wires as well as the sparkplugs because the the boot is on the plug so tight that the wire or boot ends up getting torn trying to get it off. Even my local mechanic has had this problem. They are just hard to get to. Otherwise our van has done its job well hauling two adults, two teenagers and two younger ones (5 & 8). Good luck!
  • I am not a Ford guy, but I have a '92 Aerostar that has been in our family since new, via In-Laws and now mine and I really like this vehicle. Recently I had the rack&pinion replaced, steering column bearings and shaft replaced and all was fine. Last week I had the intermediate steering shaft replaced because of a clicking and popping in the steering column but this work didn't help. Ford says they find no reason for the noise, and it's okay to go down the highway at 75 mph. Not willing to bet the farm on that statement. Anyone had this clicking/popping problem? Thanks
  • 68torino68torino Posts: 4
    A good trick when changing plugs and wires is to add a little dab of neverseize to the plug's threads before installing. Add a little dab of spark plug wire grease(pick up at parts store) or silicone grease to the inside of the boot that goes over the plug. Next time these will be easier to remove. Doesn't help the first hard time but after will be easier.
  • 68torino68torino Posts: 4
    Also check the exhuast system. I had a rattle that drove me nuts till I found the heat sheild for the cat was loose. I also had a rattle once that ended up being a loose caliper. So when looking for rattles check everything. Right now I've got a click that ends up being a bad shock.
  • 68torino68torino Posts: 4
    I noticed a post from Canada that mentioned oiling their Aerostar to prevent rusting. Could I get more details on this? Currently if I have a vehicle I like I undercoat the wheel wells but I'm always interested in new or different methods of rust control.
  • we have our Aerostar oil sprayed each year by

    their product is the only rust protection method endorsed by the Automobile Protection Association of Canada (a consumer support group)

    when they did the initial application on our 97 Aerosport, the guy showed me the area that is most likely to rust on the vehicle, it is the boxed in area that runs along the bottom 1/4 of vehicle.

    They actually pump/spray their oil onto the inner surfaces of this area.

    At the shop where my vehicle is treated, they have recent pictures on the wall of 10-15 yr old Aerostars, with NO rust...which is remarkable, considering that we have all seen old Aerostars on the road with their rocker panels and/or the bottoms of their doors flapping in the breeze.
  • My dad currently drives the 1996 Ford Aerostar extended-length XLT 4.0L V6 RWD. Purchased it new in September 28, 1996. It now has 110,000 miles and, besides the general maintanence, it has been a very reliable van. Here are all the repairs needed since 1996:

    1. In 1997, cruise control failed.

    2. In 1998, air-conditioner failed.

    3. In 1999, air-conditioner failed again.

    4. In 1999, thermostat needed to be replaced.

    5. In 2000, none.

    6. In 2001, brakes needed work.

    7. In 2002, none.

    8. In 2003, none so far.

    If anybody is considering a used Aerostar, I highly recommend the 1996 model year because, according to Consumer Reports, 1996 is the most reliable Aerostar ever made in history since 1986. 1997 was the last year but the reliability isn't as good as 1996. 1995 isn't as good as 1996. I have heard fewer problems coming from 4.0 Aerostar engine than 3.0. Our Aerostar is still currently on its original engine and transmission.

    The only weak point I can think of is that Aerostar RWD doesn't do well in snow. One time my dad drove on a snowy road, the Aerostar slipped or skidded many times if turning right or left. He almost nearly got an accident. So I do not recommend the Aerostar for snow drive. The Aerostar has no problem on rain drive.

                       Walter Chan
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Would get my vote for the best of the series. Digital dash, 4 captains chairs, leather, etc.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    Our '94XLT is at 167,000 miles and still going strong. A/C is broken for the first time. It's the compressor. Will get it fixed this spring.

    Major repairs include 3 rear ends (don't know what was up with that - 2 done under warranty, the last one was a salvage yard item and has lasted longer than the other two. The steering assembly was replaced at about 85,000 miles.

    Ours has a possessed radio. The volume increases and decreases by itself.

    The weather stripping around both back side windows has been replaced due to leaks.

    This vehicle has been extremely reliable and will likely be part of our stable until the motor gives up. And where else can you carry a sofa or a washer and dryer under cover like you can in the Aerostar? Wrestle those back seats out and the XLT has an amazing carrying capacity.
  • Anyone have any experience with Power Steering on a '95 Aerostar? I have 3.0 liter model XLT. I think the pump went on me. Any idea what a new pump will run? I live in Atlanta, GA

    Thanks in advance.
  • I put some PS fluid in this AM. Seems to have stopped the squealing and it's not such a bear to steer. I'll keep an eye on it for awhile to insure I don't have any leaks.

    I may need new seals if I have a leak.
  • psasakpsasak Posts: 1
    I just wish they still made these vans. Ours has about 120,000 miles on it and it still goes strong with no oil burning. We bought it new in Tucson, and have had it in Ohio since 1998. No rust yet - every spring I have to scrub it down to get the pin-spots of rust off the body.

    We just put about $1500 into it last year for front-end bushings. It clanked like an old truck over bumps - the bushings were metal-to-metal. the tie rod ends went a few years ago, why Ford made them out of plastic is a mystery. New brakes, rotors, bearings, 2 water pumps - the usual replacements over it's life. the major components have stayed together very well.

    Like I said, I just wish they still made 'em.

    It's time for a new van soon... looking at a Toyota Sienna (I wish it was a Ford). This new Freestar is going to go down in flames like the Windstar, I think. Ford does not do front-wheel drives very well, I think.
  • 446pack446pack Posts: 7
    Well, the wife and I bought our '92 Aerostar new in March of '92. XLT extended 2WD with all available options + L/S axle. It was white with red interior. It's lived all of it's life in Western NY (Buffalo). It never let us down at all. With the 3.0 we averaged 30+MPG on the highway all its life. Never had a problem hauling heavy loads for long distances either. Other than normal tires, brakes, plugs, wires, rotor, 1 exhaust system, 1 battery and 1 starter it has been a great vehicle. We tried to sell it for 3 years. However, every time we went to sell it we needed it so took it off the market. Well we fianlly sold it last June with 245,000 miles on it. No rust on it (due to running boards), but do know about those darn loose interior screws. I solved mine with a dab of lock-tite on them. The folks that bought it live in NC and love it. Still great on fuel at over 265,000 miles on it. They haven't put anything into it as of yet. I ran AMSOIL in everything on it (oil, great, tranny fluid and such). Flushed the cooling system out completely with new fluid every 2 years. Also wished they still made them. Just purchased a new Freestar LIMITED. Have a whole 207 miles on it as of today. Like it better than the Windstar. You set up in it more like the Aerostar than the Windstar. Right now it's running about 22MPG highway. Hopefully it'll climb higher.
  • mhoodzmhoodz Posts: 2
    I'm thinking of buying this vehicle but it has one weird problem..the headlights radio and dashlights only work when you hold the high beam switch in the on postition. hold it on in low and I get lowbeam headlights - hold it on in high and I then get high beam plus dashlights and the radio. Is there a simple fix for this or is this a sign of an unending electrical nightmare?
    It has 252,000 kilometers or 150,000 miles on it.
    Everything else seems good on it except the heater fan but I think that is tied into the electrical trouble.
  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    Believe your headlight problem is a bad headlight switch. It is about a $50 part at the cost me $300 to get it replaced at a dealer including labor...but I didn't have to tear the dash apart to get to it.

    We too had the demon radio problem, which is definately a wiring problem, because it seemed to come/go with temp changes.

    Our '92 Aerostar finally died with 123,800 miles on it. After installing the second new air conditioning compressor in 3 yrs,and spending $1k, the transmission seals gave out in the mtns of VA. enroute to a new home in WI.

    Tranny guy wanted $1800 and 2 weeks to fix it, which would necessitate 4 day round trip to retrieve it. Alas, Aerostar, we knew you well.
  • duckiedduckied Posts: 52
    I currently own a 1990 Ford Aerostar XLT with about 154,000 miles. Within the past few months, the whole exterior of the van is rusting and breaking off. For example, part of the van under the driver's side door fell off because of rust. Is anyone else having rust trouble?

    The rear sliding door has not been closing completely shut. When you shut the door, it is slightly ajar. This problem has been occuring for many years. The only way to resolve this issue is to place your hand on the rear of the sliding door and apply the correct amount of pressure while closing it.

    Also, the A/C and heat have not worked correctly for about five years. I have taken it into the Ford dealer to be checked, but they did not fix the problem. It sounds like the fan is running, but no air is blowing out of the vents.
  • samnoesamnoe Posts: 731
    I had all of your problems and more. It was a '92. For 2 years ago, I gave up and decided to lease a new Windstar, and the difference was incredible! (At that time ('02) there still wasn't the '04 Sienna and Quest, just the Odyssey to pay top dollar and wait 5-6 months).

    1990 MY is almost 15 (!) years old, and 154,000 miles is pretty much, although many Aerostars are running great for more than 200K miles. (OK, not great, but still acceptable!)

    Maybe it's time to think of a new(er) one!
  • duckiedduckied Posts: 52
    Thanks for your response. A new van definitely sounds like a good idea, with all the problems the old Aerostar van has. I'm thinking of the new Freestar or the Odyssey. I might go with the Odyssey, because it has more that I want and can be cheaper than the Freestar. I rented a Freestar SEL van a few weeks ago, which MSRP is $30,140, and I still can't figure why it's cost is so high. Thanks again for your suggestions.
  • samnoesamnoe Posts: 731
    If you get an '04 Odyssey now (the next month) you can have a steal deal, they're very cheap now, since the new '05 models arrive in September. And they have better reliability than Ford, plus more refined engine with more power and better fuel economy.

    On the other hand, the Freestar is much better than any Ford van, and most customers confirms that. But since sales are very slow, you can get very big rebates - up to $7,000 at many dealers!

    So if you like that SEL model which have a MSRP of $30K, you can take advantage of these large rebate deals and have it (at some dealers) for just about $23K.

    The main advantage I can see to go with Ford, is that you're used to Ford style. For many people it does not make a big difference, but for many other people it could. If you're used to a column shifter, headlights on the dashboard, and wiper controls at the stalk on the left side of the steering wheel, you'll like the Freestar. On most imported models, the wiper controls is on the right side, and headlamps on the left stalk.
  • From what I've heard from my bud's son who assembles the FreeStar, it is a piece of junk. He works for Visteon in Detroit and said a lot of the parts did not fit together.

    The Odyssey's are good but have transmission issues that Honda is currently addressing. I have a '99 that had the tranny replaced at 78K with a rebuilt. Fortunately Honda picked up the cost in full. The transmissions have been warrantied to 100K. So if my new one goes bad I'm SOL.
  • I bought my 89 Aerostar new and it has 172,000 miles on it. The only thing that ever went wrong was a stuck thermostat. Changed the oil every 3K with Mobil 1 Oil. And transmission every 30K. Aside from brakes and tires, no problems. It's always been garaged. And it does not burn oil...yet.
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    Ford F-150 BEST selling vehicle in America. The Aerostar was a truck whereas Windstar was Taurus based (with all the problems of the Taurus).
         Ford FWD vehicles are about as bad as Ford trucks are good. If you buy a Ford, make sure it is a truck.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Anyone know or have experience with having to have the rear differential, an LSD, repaired or rebuilt?
  • I am having my tranny rebuilt on my '95 Aerostar. I am having a rebuilt Ford tranny installed comes with 36K mileage warranty (so I should be good for 2 years).


    My mileage is about 176K.


    Is this typical of the '95s (mileage wise)? The mechanic said the pump was bad (transmission). Am also getting the rear brakes and new master cylinder (I think its the original??). Have to bring my car to another shop, recently put on a new rack and pinion and there is PS fluid all over the place (mechanic said the Rack and pinion was binding and showed me where the leak was). I will give the other shop a hard time (I am not paying a dime since it's supposed to be under warranty,12 month/12000).


    I just got my alternator replaced last Thanksgiving and have been good on the maintenance. I just hope nothing else needs repaired as I am putting some major money into the vehicle, but I figure it beats car payments for the next 4 - 5 years.


    Please post your opinions.




  • Just got my vehicle back last night. So far so good with the transmission. The shifting is smoth (nice). Brought it back to the other shop for the rack and pinion to be fixed (mechanic said a clip broke). I said I don't care what you have to do just make it right (no money out of my pocket). I'll bring some PS with me just to make sure as the other mechanic said to get it fixed ASAP otherwise the PS pump would go due to lack of PS fluid. Will have to watch the Master cylinder (maybe next week get it replaced, will get pricing).
  • dougd7dougd7 Posts: 71
    Not sure about the 95's but we had a 93 3.0L that had 203K miles when we traded it. However it had developed several issues. It had some coolant weapage around the timing cover - estimated cost to repair - $500 (local mechanic). The vacum modulator was leaking resulting in the tranny fluid being sucked into the fuel injection and burned. I was going through 2 qts of tranny fluid every 8-10 weeks or so. The thing that forced us to trade was when the ABS sort of failed. Light came on, had hard pedal. Wife limped it home to local mechanic. Heres' the interesting part - once you turned off the engine the entire system reset and seemed normal. Mechanic said to drive it again 'til it fails and then bring it in so he could look at it. As this was the wife's primary driver and we could not simply wait for the system to fail again we decided to traded it.


    One other thing. I serviced the transmission once and the fluid that came out was black. I installed a new filter and fresh fluid and really had no problems with the tranny other than when the vacum modulator blew.
  • edoedo Posts: 1
    I need assistance in changing the radiator fan from my wife's van. The fan is cranked in numerous places on the base. I bought a new one and tried to remove the old one but ran across this problem. According to the Chilton manual (8057) 26100 covering Aerostar from '86-96 the fan clutch is attached to the water pump with left-hand threads meaning that I must turn the large nut clockwise as viewed from the front to remove. I have the special tools to hold the fan clutch while loosening the nut. I tried turning the nut clockwise, but the wrench spread, slipped and took some metal off the nut. Then, I noticed that the fan cover has big letters that reads "Right hand threads on Fan Clutch." I tried loosening the nut by hitting on the wrench counter-clockwise, but still not able to break loose. What threads are on this fan clutch to the water pump nut? Is it usually very hard to break loose. Please help before the fan comes apart and causes secondary damage to the engine, radiator, tranny line and other.
    Thanks in advance for any help you may provide.
    Ed Ortiz
  • Hi
    I have a Aerostar 3.0 (130bhp) commercial van with 66k miles. I would like to know what the maximum towing capacity is for my vehicle. The trailer I plan to tow weighs 950lbs and will have a 1100lbs load in it. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Many Thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    You didn't say what year, but I'm guessing they are all the same. The 1996 Aerostar is rated to tow 4400 lbs.

    Steve, Host
  • Thanks, that's a great help. Actually it's a 1995 but I guess the engine/transmission are the same. Anyone had any towing related issues?

    Thanks again
  • japejape Posts: 2
    My brother has a 94 Ford Aerostar that won't start when it rains or snows. It has a lot of miles on it. He put a new distributor cap on it last year.
  • rummerrummer Posts: 2
    I have a 97 aerostar with about 350,000 miles and I have no problems all I do is regular mentainance
  • rummerrummer Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where i can the driver seat to buy?
  • rapprapp Posts: 3
    My 96 Aerostar with 119K miles has been very good since new.In the last week I can press the peddle to the floor and it hardly accelerates or revs. The dealer diagnosed no faults found - suspect trany at fault. It wasn't the transmission per trany shop. Catalytic converter tests OK. Anyone know of any problems that may cause this condition. Several repair shops are stumped.
  • rapprapp Posts: 3
    I found a good mechanic who found the harmonic balancer had come loose. The key then wore to the side. It would idle OK but with acceration the timing went out. Ironically the last shop to remove the hb was the same dealer (7 years earlier) that did an OK diagnostic on the timing etc this time. In fairness, I returned to the dealer with the damaged part for a full refund of their 2 hr of diagnosis. The Van now runs with the spunk of a new one or better.
  • i have a '95 aerostar with 265,000 miles on it. i do regular maintenance on it and do not have a problem until the other day when i was checking the front brakes and wheel bearings. when i pulled it out of the garage the abs light came on and the back wheels are locking up. i have taken the front and back wheels off to see if anything was on wrong and everything was all right. does anyone know something else i can try to correct this prolem or even know what the problem is.
  • rapprapp Posts: 3
    The ABS light coming on can be something as simple as the brake fluid being low, possibly from opening your front calipers and the tank over flowing. This happened to me a couple of days ago and corrected by topping up the fluid. Locking rear brakes??
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    Check your local wrecking yard or go to Ebay
  • joavejrjoavejr Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1993 Aerostar. The radio/tape player's volume will go up or down when ever it feels like it. This happens using the tape player as well. Does anyone know if this is something that can be repaired or do I need to replace the unit? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
  • hi ive recently aquired my motehrs 1992 ford aerostar. I love it, lots of room, great for road trips (im 20 in college), 150000+ miles. we just got the transmission replaced, runs great though.

    the problem im having is that a few years back we knocked the rear whiper fluid nozzle thing off, and that allowed water into the van during a rain storm, well we go that fixed and cleaned the water out... last week i found out we didnt get all the water out and proceded to rip out the back of my van. upon removal of the carpet i set it out to dry, the cardboard under that was gone for good, and the soundboard under that was lifted from the frame and there were puddles under it. keep in mind this is like 4 years later and im finding puddles.

    in the process of me getting the carpet and such out i kinda had to break some of the molding around the bench seat attachmehts, and the step from the side door. there not horribly borken but along with some other parts i would like to replace i figure i might as well replace them.

    problem is i cant find anywhere to get the interior parts i need, ive got a 1992 blue xlt, and would like to keep it that way, i only need the interior in good condition, donesnt need to be running, just need the interior. but alas im having no luck thus far, i did find replacement carpet for $250, but im not looking to drop that much on carpet and that just the beginning of th parts i need.

    any advice for a poor college studnet like my self

    thnks (and if any one has comptuer problems feel free to email me, im very knowlegable)
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    We prefer to keep the discussions here v. in email so that everyone can benefit. Please do not encourage or request people to email you when the topic should be kept and discussed here.

  • scooby2scooby2 Posts: 1
    I also have a aerostar but its a 91 it has real high mileage, here lately it wont start running if it is the least bit cold but as soon as it warms up it starts up, I have already changed the fuel pump,battery and distributer, I dont know what else to change did your brother find out what was wrong with his?
  • I have a 91 Eddie Bauer with 131,000 miles. Best vehicle i have ever owned by a country mile.The only reason I am getting rid of it is due to corrosion which is now unsightly. Interestingly enough, I had an expensive rust proofing done which appears to have been a waste of money. In fact, I have been told that you should stay away from rustproofing since they plug up the venting that dries up the nooks and crannies. I understand that Ford put a lot of effort into this area and you will rarely see a rusty Windstar/Freestar. Roomy for large and tall drivers, great high ride height, sturdy construction, rear wheel drive, and in Eddie Bauer trim, one of the most handsome vans ever built. I would buy another if the rust issue was solved.

    This year had rear ABS and this has happened to me before with the light coming on. The sensor gets corroded and stays on and locks up the rear brakes for the first several stops. My shop took it out, cleaned it up and put it back in. Lasted 3 years, now it is doing it again.

    I have the reg. length 3.0 and I had the tranny fluid changed and flushed at 60,000. Never have had a problem. So far, I have had a steering rack, alternator, ball joint, blower motor, water pump, and issues with the radio. I feel this has stood up pretty good as I am up in central Canada where the winters are severe. Always starts, biggest problem is lack of traction on snow and ice. I am trading it in on a Freestar Limited.
  • conkoconko Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Aerostar AWD. When driving slowly, there is a definite "pull-to-the- right-then-return-to-the -left" action that is very pronounced in the steering wheel. It feels as though the wheel lug bolts are actually loose (however they are tight. As I increase speed that action seem to smooth out but a slight vibration is felt.

    Could the Trans Axle cause this because I also hear a "growling" of the front end when I turn sharply to the right!
  • sfrensfren Posts: 8
    After having my 93 Aerostar (3.0) in the shop replacing front pads and rear wheel cylinders the Rear ABS light and the other dash warning light for the brakes (emergency brake warning light) are lit and do not go out. I took it back to the shop but they were of no help. Live in the Bahamas so it is hard to find a good shop. Are there any ways to reset these warning lights?
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