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Comments
Now, issue a TSB on my left pull & I'll be the happiest camper.
I started driving w/ECO on and twice I've run a 125 mile loop through the hills at 55-65 w/cruise control as well for 34 & 34.3 puter trip MPG averages.
First 1K I was averaging 26 MPG from playing w/TS turbo, bringing the car up to speed fast, wide open passing and running 80 MPH when open road allowed.
I reset the MPG on the last tank, I'm still two bars over half way and I've logged 270 miles. I ran the loop twice and a couple of runs to the store.
The TS unleashes all the torque by 1800 RPM moving the car seemingly effortlessly giving the illusion of having a bigger block under the hood.
Elegance in movement that borders on Lexusesque refinement
Seriously, once I quit playing w/turbo I was amazed at how well behaved the 2.0T moved the car through hills and traffic.
The twin scroll makes the difference down low on power, so you don't feel the need to keep your foot stuck in it all the time.
The passenger seat needs eight way power and they could add a few more pounds on front seat cushion/comfort and road noise sound deadening/isolation.
The Limited is fairly quiet, but if the turbo Regal had a few more ponies I would've been sorely tempted.
Top of the line limited 2.0T should have eight way power passenger seat and the front seats should be a little more substantial.
Maybe they need to build a Sonata luxury coupe...
Now, if only Hyundai would take the 2.4 mill, perform the same magic and drop it into the Genesis coupe.
--------
NHTSA Campaign ID number: 10V426000
Vehicle Make / Model:
Model Year(s):
HYUNDAI / SONATA
2011
Manufacturer:
HYUNDAI MOTOR COMPANY
Mfr's Report Date:
SEP 23, 2010
Component:
STEERING:GEAR BOX:SHAFT SECTOR
Potential Number of Units Affected:
138,354
Summary:
HYUNDAI IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2011 SONATA VEHICLES MANUFACTURED FROM DECEMBER 11, 2009, THROUGH SEPTEMBER 10, 2010. ON SOME OF THESE VEHICLES THE STEERING COLUMN INTERMEDIATE SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT CONNECTIONS MAY HAVE BEEN EITHER IMPROPERLY ASSEMBLED OR INSUFFICIENTLY TIGHTENED.
Consequence:
IMPROPER ASSEMBLY OR INSUFFICIENT TIGHTENING OF THE CONNECTIONS COULD RESULT IN A COMPLETE SEPARATION OR COMPROMISED ATTACHMENT OF THE CONNECTIONS, SUCH THAT THE DRIVER COULD EXPERIENCE A LOSS OF, OR REDUCTION IN, STEERING CAPABILITY INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE STEERING COLUMN INTERMEDIATE SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT CONNECTIONS FOR PROPER ASSEMBLY AND TORQUE. IN ADDITION DEALERS WILL UPDATE THE POWER STEERING SOFTWARE FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING OCTOBER 2010. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HYUNDAI CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE CENTER AT 1-800-633-5151.
Notes:
HYUNDAI'S SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN NUMBER IS 097. OWNERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV .
NHTSA Campaign ID number: 10V457000
Vehicle Make / Model:
Model Year(s):
We have had ours (purchased Dec 2010) back to the dealer three times, with latest visit being prompted by call to us from Hyundai Consumer Affairs, who worked with our dealer on a replacement of the steering column assembly as well as a realignment due to the steering wheel being off center, and re-set the electronic steering control. Net result: still drifts.
Love the car; dealer has been extremely respectful/accommodating; wish they could fix the problem. If not, we will file "lemon" claim with the state.
My car was purchased 3 days ago and I did notice it pulling to the left at highway speeds. The other posts seemed to talk about a misaligned/misdrilled strut issue being traced to the Alabama assembly plant as the source of the drift problem.
I've just sent an email to Hyundai asking for their official position on the matter and whether they can lend assistance. We shall see...
Mine doesn't pull all the time and more so on heavily crowned roads, so I've changed my vote from the magic strut to the EPS/software.
It appears to me that the steering unit is attempting to correct for the crown and overcompensating sending the car always left, over the crown, the river, through the woods to grandmothers house we go.
It's as if there's a leveling sensor telling the car to lean/list left on roads w/pronounced crown.
I filled up, same station, same pump, facing the same direction after 545 miles and required 17.5 gallons.
1700+ miles on the odometer and I'm anxious to see how the gal behaves after 8K...
Unfortunately, most manufacturers are still pretending that they don't have a clue..or that the driver is imagining the problem.
As mentioned in my previous post, this is not a mechanical defect..it is a programming problem, in terms of the algorithms that control torque etc with EPS systems. The following PDF from Ford explains it very well.
Take this to Hyundai corporate, and tell them the party is over...if Ford can do it, so can Hyundai...and every other manufacturer that has manufactured cars with pull challenged EPS systems.
Our 2011 Sonata SE, manufactured July 28 2011, tracks straight as an arrow...even without hands on the wheel. If ours can do that, so should each and every one...no excuses.
Ask them if you could go to Ford on their dime to get the problem resolved...since Hyundai can't seem to figure out how to get the EPS to function as it should.
Kudos to Ford on this one.
Link:
http://media.ford.com/images/10031/EPS.pdf
Pull-Drift Compensation is a software-based technology enabled by Ford’s shift to uel-efficient Electric Power Steering (EPS) systems.
• The technology detects road
conditions – such as a crowned
road surface or crosswinds – and
adjusts the EPS steering system
to help the driver compensate for
pulling and drifting.
• For drivers, Pull-Drift Compensation
is designed to be unnoticeable
as the system adjusts to help
with pulling or drifting conditions.
• Because EPS uses an electric
motor to provide steering
assistance, its control can be
precisely programmed to enable
technologies such as Pull-Drift
Compensation or Active Park
Assist – a new option debuting
on several 2010 Ford, Lincoln
and Mercury vehicles – that help
or take over steering.
• Pull-Drift Compensation starts with
EPS technology, which replaces the
traditional hydraulic-assist powersteering
pump with an electric motor.
This increases fuel economy because
the electric motor operates only when
steering assistance is required.
• Sensors constantly measure steeringwheel
torque applied by the driver to
maintain the vehicle’s path. Continuous
adjustments are made as the system
resets to adapt to changing road
conditions or maneuvers, such as the
vehicle turning a corner.
• When the system detects a pulling or
drifting condition, such as a crowned
road surface, it provides torque
assistance to help make steering easier.
For drivers, this assistance is seamless
and imperceptible.
• EPS technology can be fine-tuned by
engineers to fit the driving characteristics
of varying products, whether it’s a luxury
sedan or sporty compact SUV.
• EPS with Pull-Drift Compensation is
designed to help reduce a source of
annoyance for many motorists faced
with uneven roads or crosswinds.
• EPS with Pull-Drift Compensation is
projected to significantly improve customer
satisfaction with steering in these situations.
• The 2008 Ford Escape, one of the first
vehicles to feature this technology,
reduced the rate of customer steering
complaints by 50 percent.
• EPS is a demonstrative example of
technology that increases fuel economy
while enabling innovation to aid drivers
Excellent point. Our Sonata tracks dead straight as well.
Question is...WHY won't Hyundai...and the other manufacturer's...fix the problem on those cars that DO have the problem?
They spend time and money on alignments..changing tires...steering assemblies..struts...when they have to knwo that the problem is with some aspect of the EPS.
So...any ideas out there?
Is there a reference for this info? I'd like to show it to my dealer...
I've never posted there, but there's about 28 pages or so on left pull issue.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=54868&st=100&#entry376474
Post #118
Mine is set dead on factory "preferred" spec, I know this because I set it myself, and I have absolutely no pulling issues. I completely agree with you about just saying "It's in spec" being total BS. "Spec" can have a wide variation in side to side measurements that can and will cause problems. Side to side variation must be kept to a minimum for the car to track true.
*From hmaservice.com website, TSB 10-SS-008-1 11/5/2010
Alignment Specs 2011
Sonata (YF) 2.4 GDI (Note: I could find no other/different specs for Turbo models)
Front Camber -0.5° ± 0.5°
Caster 4.44° ± 0.5°
Front Toe, total 0.16° ± 0.2°
Front Toe, individual 0.08° ± 0.1°
Rear Camber -1.0° ± 0.5°
Rear Toe, total 0.17° ± 0.2°
Rear Toe, individual .085° ± 0.1°
For instance:
Front camber preferred spec is -0.5º but anywhere from 0º to -1.0º is "within spec". If the left front camber is on 0º and the right front is -1.0º, it would technically be "within spec", however, the car would most likely pull very noticeably to the left. Same with caster. If left front caster was 4.00º and right front was 5.90º, it would pull to the left but be within spec. Maximum side-to-side difference should be less than .5º in both cases with 0º being preferred. Incorrect toe settings can cause wandering, possible pulling, and extremely accelerated tire wear.
------------------------------------
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t54868-st-360-pulling-problem.htm
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=56918
-------------------
http://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8267&page=17
I did pretty much what you are doing now multiple trips to the dealer alignments tire rotation computer reset etc
I purchased the from was Lester Glenn In NJ. I also called the Hyundai 800 number opened a compliant and when the dealership did a called to see how I like the car I got a hold of the owner and told him what was happening. I guess between speaking to him and the call to Hyundai consumer a few days latter I got a call from Hyundai Regional Headquarters that they are going to send someone out to see what is happening. I had to bring my car back for a third time where the a field rep from the office met me and we test drove the car to prove the problem was real (not in my head)....I am sure they already new the problem existed but had to go through the motions.
They kept the car another day to get some additional details and they also had two other 2.0T at the dealership owned by their own sales people with the same problem....It was clear to me hey new all along something was wrong did not want to let on at first but you would have to be a complete idiot not to realize it. No matter what they had to pull me along because this is the process !
Hyundai last Monday sent a team of 5 engineers (including 3 from Korea) to make a test case out my car along with several others in the area to try and resolve the issue. They had sent several batches of parts to the dealer one of which was a new strut assembly. I was told that they installed the new strut with an adjustable camber bolt and then re-aligned the car which seem to do the trick. The other two cars at the dealer were also done that day or next and that also seemed to resolve their problem.
The set of engineers were making rounds at other dealers in the NY/PA area to try the fix on several more cars. One other person who said he had his car fixed with the new strut is not sure if it really resolved the problem and wants to drive the car for a few more days before deciding if it is really fixed or not.
I too want to drive my car a few more weeks over different roads and conditions to be sure that it is really fixed...I do have a 2011 Sonata SE non turbo so I use the two to compare
From what another person was told on the other Hyundai Message board is that Hyundai believes they had a bad batch of struts which is causing the issue, but one would think the same struts would have be used in the non Turbo SEs built around the same time and I have not seem many complaints but who knows this is speculation at this time
So I would call the Hyundai 800 number, and insist someone from the regional office send someone out to see the car. If not I would begin the lemon law process to at least indicate that you are serious...You can also open a complaint on the NHTSA web site I did and so did others who have been having a the same issue...here is the link to another forum where the problem has also be talked about
----------
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index....c=54868&st=280
----------
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=54868&st=140
There are only so many things that can make a car pull to the left. I am betting the EPS is not sensing the correct center point of the steering wheel so it is constantly trying to get back to what it thinks as center, but in reality is slightly left of center.
IF THIS IS THE CASE THEN THE CAR SHOULD TRACK W/eps OFF.
-------------------
NHSTA
Your Complaint Information is successfully submitted.
Your Confirmation number (ODI Number) is: 10375228
---------------
Now the next thing he told me was somthing that I had actually thought about before hand, he explained how the steering on this car is sensitive and relies on feedback. That its not designed like the older car of past. He said that this car always requires you to have your hand on the wheel, and that you can control it with just one finger or two (which is how I dirve also, two fingers on the lower steering wheel). That if you take your hand of the steering wheel, the system is really sensitive to all the divations on the road, and will try to adjust itself and when it does it feels where your pressue is being put/ or held, and that way it is able to stay in line. If the car feels no sort of pressue even a small one from a finger, then the car will just start drifting to one side.
And since this car does have a steering wheel that also adjusts how tight it is based on your speed, this seems like a logical answer ( I tried to explain it like he did, not sure if I did).
----------------------
Updated on update...Dealer called me back the Hyundai field rep programed the alignment rack to be consistent with the TSB. Tech realigned the car based on the correct spec in the TSB and zeroed out the EPS they also checked tires/rims for any radial issues they were ok from what I was told....The car drives better but as they say no cigar the still drifts to the left but not as pronounced as before. I did ask for the specs of the alignment before/after so here is what we have (see below)...They still are claiming that they will be coming back with a team of en
FRONT END
Before/ After Before / after SPEC
Left Camber Right Camber
-0.4 / -.03 -0.3 / -0.3 -0.5 +/- 0.5
Left Caster Right Caster
4.6 / 4.6 4.6 / 4.7 4.44 +/- 0.5
Left Toe Right Toe
.25 / .10 .19 / .09 0.08 +/- 0.10
Toe Total
0.44 / 0.19 0.16 +/- 0.2
REAR END
Before/After Before/After SPEC
Left Camber Right Camber
-1.2 / -1.2 -1.3 / -1.3 -1.0 +/- 0.5
Left Toe Right Toe
0.12 / 0.11 .01 / .02 0.08 +/- .10
Toe, total
0.13 / 0.13 0.17 +/- 0.2
---------------------------------------
Well, we picked up the car..................AND...............it still pulls left. What a surprise! I should point out that it seems to be a bit better than before, but there is still generally a bit of effort involved in keeping the wheel centered. What I don't get is if they tried disconnecting the electronic assist and it was perfect, then we've found the problem...right? So fix the electonic steering. Instead, apparently they've just messed around with everything else.
I did not get any paperwork yet as the service manager is out of town until saturday. I will be driving it more to develop better thoughts on it, but it is slightly improved. I knew before even test driving this car, that the steering would be something I'd probably complain about as every magazine has pointed out that there's little feedback and artificially heavy....with which I agree.
Basically, I'm still not happy with it, but I'm not sure there's a lot else that they'll be able to do. Do I demand satisfaction and tell Hyundai to trade us for a different one that hopefully drives straight? Do I just suck it up and fight the wheel all the time? There's plenty of things I like about this car with only a few minor gripes, but this one big gripe really takes away from the joy of driving it and has instead become a frustration every time you're behind the wheel.
------------------------
Latest update on my Turbo SE.. I got called this morning from the dealer if I can bring my car in they had assembled a team from Hyundai (including Engineers from Korea) to figure out what is going on. From what I was told I was the "test case" for the problem being reported to corporate and to see what /how the problem needs to be resolved. Please do not construe this to be the end all final answer they plan to work on several more cars at my dealer with similar problem and then head to some other dealers as well who have cars that need to be looked at as well before making declaring success.
What fixed my car was the replacement of the left strut assembly. The new strut assembly allows for an adjustable camber bolt to be installed. The strut was installed with adjustable camber bolt aligned to specs and that seemed to do the trick. I have the final alignment specs that I will send out later. just my observation based on how quicky they had this new strut assembly leads me to believe that Hyundai "may" have known something was up for some period of time. Looks like the new part will have the ability to accommodate an adjustable camber bolt.... I do not know what/when or if Hyundai will publish a TSB they still have further analysis to do to see if it impacts certain model/VINS etc...So for the rest of you sensitive to your cars not driving straight a solution is on its way...Again this worked for my car I suspect it will for rest of the cars with the same issue...
Please stay in touch and keep us informed, I would be curious if we all end up with the same fix or some deviations...!
-----------------
However the final spec on the alignment are within what the TSB calls for. It seems that the car needed a little more negative camber then what what the existing part allowed for it to run true. So the strut and new bolt allowed for the camber to be adjusted a little more neg (still within spec) then the existing part. Like I said it worked for me, I can't say this will be what Hyundai will recommend for everyone else. My car is running straight, feels just like my other Sonata at this point. I was provided the print out from the alignment machine before and after verified the results are all within spec and I now have a drift left free car.... I guess only time will tell at this point what Hyundai finally comes up with as the "fix". Maybe they will come out with something else don't know.
So hypothetically lets say Hyundai started to include the new strut and camber bolt adjustment in all cars going forward. You (meaning anyone) purchases the car and had no issues had no idea the car had this camber adjustment capability would that make it wrong or bad design ? I am no expert on suspension geometry I don't build or design cars I can only go by what the spec states and how my car drives now and I am OK with what was done. I am sure Hyundai is figuring out what the best fix/solution is for existing cars and future production...I may eat my words but for now I am satisfied.
Below is what the result of the "fix" made to the car with respect to camber...note the caster values remained unchanged after the fix ..So from my perspective it seems that the additional neg camber was all that was needed. As long as the alignment is in spec and I have no drift I have nothing to challenge Hyundai with at this point.
Alignment before and after (the specs in the rear changed but insignificant)
Camber Spec is: -0.5 +/- 0.5 (range -1.0 to 0.0)
note: difference should not exceed 0.5 between left and right camber
Prior
Camber left -0.4
Camber right -0.3
After
Camber Right -0.8
Camber Left -0.3
Total Toe before 0.29 (spec .16 +/- .2)
Total Toe After 0.23
Caster both left and Right 4.5 before and after fix
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The strut is not "bad" it seem Hyundai has a new strut assembly has the the ability to accept a camber adjustment bolt that will allow them to tweak the camber on the cars that are drifting left. The existing strut assembly do not allow for camber adjustments it is fixed at the time of manufacture (within some tolerance). What looks like is happening that some cars need a little more neg camber at least in my case then others after assembly and the new strut and camber bolt allows for that minor adjustment to be made, as long as the specs are maintained I am OK with it.
And yes it is likely the same engineers who were at my dealer here in Toms River NJ will be making the rounds. They had several parts shipped out to my dealer prior t
It is an easy fix, maybe 1 hour for the strut another 1/2 hour for alignment. The fact they already had these new strut assemblies leas me to believe they new something might be up they had the camber adjustment bolt and strut assembly already available. The engineers had my car all day they drove it over 100 miles convincing themselves that they were satisfied the problem was fixed. When arrived to pick up the car I had 3 of the engineers and the Hyundai regional rep all go with me for a test drive. Hyundai was dead serious that I was going to leave happy today ! The Hyundai engineering team was still there when I left at 4:30pm, they were going to work on two more cars this eve. I also understand they were going to visit other dealers in the south Jersey, Philly area over the next few days.
As I mentioned they are going to work on multiple cars in the area to make sure the "fix" works for all the before they make a final call. As of now my car was the "test vehicle" and until they see what the other cars need as far as adjustment no final/official recommendation will be made by Hyundai...However, I can say it looks promising at least from my perspective your cars will be fixed it may be exactly the same changes made to mine...
-------------------------
QUOTE (Alphacar Dec 14 2010, 01:39 PM)
Glad to hear a solution appears to be here with the strut and camber bolt fix. Update on my end and I don't know if my information is helpful to any of you guys with car/suspension knowledge. I own a 2011 Sonata SE model, which drifted very niticeably to the left. I posted earlier I place winter package (tire / rims) 17 inch from the standard 18inch on the SE model and my left driff/ pull is gone. I don't know what to make of it? Maybe some of you guys with car knowledge can draw some conclusions or ideas that would explain it. Just sharing, incase this information might turn out to be helpful.
I was curious what doing this would do. We are not hearing of any GLS or 2.4L limited left pull issues. Only on the 2.4L SE and both turbo models. Common factor between the left pullers would be the wheels/tires. Could there really be an issue with the wheels or tires or both and now this new strut assembly is just masking the problem? Seems awfully strange that only the cars with the 18" wheels on them pull left.
------------------
Just note that you may be within spec but still have a drift so don't let them shrug it off....I was at my dealer a few moments ago to pick up Motor Vehicle Reg spoke to the sale manager the two other Sonatas at this dealership were fixed the same way, changed strut and camber bolt...Looks like the value the camber coming out of the factory although in spec needs to be a little more negative to keep the car from drifting. In my case mine was -0.4 it was increased to -0.8 still in spec and that fixed the problem. So saying it is in spec does not really matter, if what is need is a slight increase in neg camber (still within spec) they need to make the change that allows the camber to be increased...So right now I am aware of 3 cars all fixed with the same method.
------------------------
Could be right that but I have a Sonata SE (non Turbo no problem)...Given that the car has to support 3 tire sizes 16,17,18 depending on the trim maybe the camber that is set/specified at the factory does not work for every variant as well as they thoughy...It does seem that there is enough spread in the spec to allow for the variances but the current design does not allow for tweaking if that is what is truly needed to compensate for any slight variation that some cars may require...So kinda goes back to what I suspect Hyundai may be doing by adding the ability to tweak the camber as needed..Or they may just decide to modify the spec slightly and build the cars with a greater camber to begin with don't know....Just speculation on my part but if I was a betting person I would just replace the existing strut with the new part and allow the camber to be adjusted on cars as needed it seems like it would only cost pennies per car it is the essentially the same part I believe all that was changed was the diameter of the whole bored where the camber bolt would go vs. the existing part. This would give them the ability to make the adjustment if needed...I guess we will have to see what Hyundai decides to do with on going production and what happens to the folks who purchased the car already.
---------------------
QUOTE (Plasma George Dec 16 2010, 10:07 AM)
Also, the mechanical fix is a new strut with the adjustable camber. The steering computer (EPS?) is just reset, not replaced.
They actually ordered a new electronic steering module and overnight it to the dealer. It's not just a reset. So apparently they are aware of something otherwise they would not just send a new unit to replace mine. I'll should know more today when I pick it up but hopefully they get to me soon before I head out to work and have to pick up on Friday instead. I want to drive to work and see if it's a real fix.
----------------
QUOTE (inurescue Dec 16 2010, 12:11 PM)
Plasma George, did anyone show up at your dealership (Hyundai engineers) and try the same fix they did with my car ?
As far as did we get a bad batch of struts, I doubt it since it would seem all the cars that are pulling left seem to be in spec. My guess is Hyundai did not account for the certain variations in the design maybe between models base/se/limited different tire sizes and that fixed camber as coming at the factory does not work for all cars coming off the line...So they maybe recalibrating to a new value on the cars coming out of production or allowing the camber to be adjusted as needed with the new strut assembly and bolt
YES, 5 guys from Korea were at the Dealer on Tuesday, they fixed mine yesterday, the other Turbo today. I posted that earlier.
So it's the GLS/Limited suspension combined with the SE tires/wheels that's causing this ? Funny thing is, I'll be posting/looking for someone who has the 17" Limited wheels/tires to trade with me.
-------------------------
This is the part listed on my work order, I have not had the opportunity to drive the car to determine if the fix worked, but hope to do so soon..
5465OROO Strut Assy LH RE This was for the Entire Left Front Strut Assembly. Inurescue do the numbers on this workorder match the work done on your vehicle.
----------------
I do not have any part #'s listed on my repair order...All they stated was replace strut assembly and camber bolt and re-alignment. I know they played around with tires again did the strut loosening as was me
I am impressed that they did get engineers on the problem in less then 2 weeks after complaining about it. Maybe it was coincidental and they were already getting a team together based on other complaints and I just got lucky or unlucky my car was the first test victim !
So far it has been a whole 4 days with my new strut and bolt and still going straight ! A real shame, nice car but has it faults like every other car on the road no car is perfect. My initial compliant was the some lower end plastic interior parts but to me that was minor and I had to factor in what I paid for the car.
I really hope you get to enjoy the car eventually, I hope we we all do.
-----------------------
I'm happy to report my Turbo is perfect ! Gotta say, it feels GREAT not having the left pull, what a relief, and what a very nice ride. It is dead on straight all the time like a brand new car in perfect balance/alignment should be. I'm starting to fall in love with it again ! I drove the Red GLS more than my Turbo ! I only drove it a couple trips, so it's still so new to me/us. Most of my family/friends haven't seen it so the new feeling is still 100% there. I'm looking forward to letting my Dad drive it this weekend, he has a Lexxus 350.
The reason I was delaying posting cause I wanted to get the part# of the new strut, and clarification. What the Service Manager explained to me yesterday was....it was a bad strut, manufactured wrong. He showed me a picture of the 5 Korean guys hovering over my car....funny, and amazing the attention they're giving this. He said one of the mounting locations for the strut was about a millimeter "off". My writeup doesn't have a part # either, it just says "replaced with updated strut" and "alignment". I haven't heard back yet, but I asked him if it was the identical strut replaced or a new/updated version, which may have this camber bolt.
I'm not overly concerned, but if my car is not "factory", then I want to know the modifications, especially for the future and down the road say 80,000 miles later I need an alignment, something needs replacement, etc.
EDIT, I just talked to the SM, he honestly doesn't think there's any "camber bolt". He said the upper mounting holes were moved 1.3mm and lower mounting holes were moved 1mm on the new one.
This post has been edited by Plasma George: Dec 17 2010, 05:19 PM
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Well I just got my car back and drove it 40 miles to work and notices a huge improvement. I don't have to struggle to keep my car straight any longer. It still tracks left sometimes but it actually could be the road this time. There is a storm and there were lots of traffic today so I couldn't let loose but it seems alot better from before. I'll have to drive it a few more times to call it fixed though. This is exactly what was stated in my work order.
Cust states there is a very noticeable pull when driving freeway speeds. Road tested with foreman. Road test w/ cust on freeway, car drifts to the left and when holding steering wheel straight it's heavy to the left. Put on align. Rack all readings OK in the green. See attached printout. Performed fix-it-right steering drift procedure. Road tested still drifts to the left. Called Tech line, Randy at Tech suggest replaced MDPS unit and recalibrate SAS Sensor. Ordered MDPS unit and recalibrate sas sensor. Road tested OK.
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My Service Manager expained he was told it was a bad batch of struts that made it to the production line. How many cars got this installed, noone knows. That's for Hyundai to figure out. What we/they do know is it was it appears ot be a bunch of Turbos that were being built at that time. The other Turbo on their lot that had the Left pull, VIN# shows it was built the same day as mine. If you don't have the Left pull, you're in the clear.
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QUOTE (bstronger Dec 24 2010, 12:54 PM)
I have my 2T at the dealer service dept now and they are installing/adjusting with the adjustable camber bolts they received from Hyundai tech.
After my drive home I'll share results. The service manager asked me to come right over so maybe I am their test case. In any case I am leaving for a drive to Canada 12/27 so am happy to have at least a shot at a remedy. B
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Well, Sorta worked out. This fix has not yet matured into a TSB but 'they expect a TSB' shortly. This fix is apparantly some adjustable camber bolts they were able to scavange out of Hyundai inventory and it seems to fix the problem for me at highway speeds but at low speed I still see some drift left. I was told that service has now adjusted to the limit of the available parts and only the TSB will provide the final fix. I surmise from that comment that the fix will include more than camber bolts and that the plate that the camber bolts insert to will need a bigger 'slot' to provide more adjustment latitude. But maybe more is needed. In any case no question that Hyundai is going to get this right. Sorry no measurements or observations as that is above my paygrade. B
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Well I guess we will wait for a TSB. Like TR said seems we are getting multiple solutions from new left strut and adjustable camber bolts to just needing a adjustable camber bolts which what I think is what they are aiming for. Very cheap fix for Hyundai maybe five dollars Hyundai's cost for parts 15 minutes to install the bolts and maybe 1/2 hour to do the alignment and all fixed ! That would be great for Hyundai and if it really fixes the majority of the cars that would be great news for us as well. Then there could be some cars that have issues beyond a simple camber adjustment bolt which Hyundai will have to deal with on a case by case basis
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Guys,
I'm not sure if you guys notice this but the drift goes away with the car fully loaded. I just got back from a 300 mile trip, 600 both ways and did not have any pull what so ever. This is the first time my car has been loaded with 5 people in it. I'm usually the only one in my car when I drive to work. The car tracked perfect. I let go of my steering wheels on all the lanes and it tracked straight. Drove today to work by myself and it tracked left again. I'm tired of bringing it in and having them tell me its fixed but it's not. I'm just going to wait for the official fix.
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http://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8267
04-27-2010, 05:54 PM
Sonata2011
Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 12
2011 Sonata SE Steering Problem
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The dealership diagnosed it as needing an alignment adjustment. Adjusted it and returned it three days later. I returned the vehicle one week later with the same problem --- still pulling left. This time the dealership kept the vehicle for TWO weeks.
The dealership couldn't resolve the problem. The dealership had to contact Hyundai Technical Support. Hyundai Technical Support exhausted their recommendations to the dealership; thus, couldn't help the dealership to resolve the problem. The dealership had to contact Hyundai and Hyundai assigned a Hyundai Factory Engineer --- all this is documented. The Hyundai Factory Engineer couldn't resolve the problem. To this day, the vehicle still pulls left.
The Hyundai Engineer Factory Engineer says that "it is the nature of the beast" --- meaning was or is determined as a inherent flaw of the vehicle, but that the is OK/safe to drive and shouldn't wear the tires as the vehicle is properly aligned.
Email from dealership:
Here's what we came up with. In re-inspecting the car and the alignment the engineer figured out that the caster was off about .2 degrees to one side. In order to correct this we did adjust the sub frame and got the alignment in better spec. After driving the car again you can still feel a very slight pull. The engineer, my technician, and myself drove the vehicle and compared it to another vehicle that we had on the lot. Your car feels better than the other car actually. Basically the engineer said the vehicle naturally will have some pull, it's a lot better than it was originally and ultimately even if it does still have a minor pull it will not wear your tires because the car is in alignment. Basically he was saying that "it's the nature of the beast."
I know this may have been a frustrating experience to be without your brand new car, but I needed a factory representative to look at the vehicle just to confirm everything.
Yes, it sure seems as though the Hyundai Factory Engineer has determined that it is a inherent design flaw of the NEW 2011 SONATA. Now, does this mean that ALL 2011 Sonata's are going to have a similar problem? To be determined ...
Just to know ... to keep this vehicle straight on the highway I have to keep the steering wheel positioned slightly off center (right); otherwise, the vehicle wants/will pull to the left. In addition, the dealership service manager, dealership service tech and the Hyundai Factory Engineer all drove another 2011 Hyundai Sonata from the dealership inventory and confirmed that another vehicle had a similar pull, BUT my vehicle "feels better than the other car." Keep in mind the "other car" is/was in dealership inventory to be sold.
This brand new 2011 Sonata SE has had: 1) Alignment by the dealership, 2) The Steering System computer replaced (temporarily, actually swapped with one off a new vehicle for test purposes --- still had same problem), 3) Alignment by the Hyundai Factory Engineer, 4) The sub-frame aligned, 5) and other numerous tests. All resulting in NOTHING correcting the pull to the left problem.
Bottom line, no one can correct the vehicle from pulling to the left!! Very disappointed!!! What else can one do???
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Last edited by Sonata2011; 04-28-2010 at 02:17 PM.
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I already called Hyundai Consumer Affairs once and they recommended the dealer to do the following adjustments but still no improvement.
1) check tire pressure
2) Align the car
3) Perform relearn procedure for steering angle
4) Reset the electronic motor driven power steering
I did install the solid strut tower brace on my car. Purchased it from shark racing. I do feel the car is a little tighter with the strut tower brace.
As for the actual struts. Will have to wait and see if there is any improvement once I get them replaced.
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http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2010/02/whos-afraid-of-electric-power-steering/-
Repairable? Yes. But the repair may not be as straightforward as one might expect, and the dealer/manufacturer (of any product, any brand) will want to both accurately identify and correct the problem to make any subsequent occurrences more efficiently handled.
Yeah, it's a bummer being one of the "chosen" owners with a pulling issue, but this is one very complex piece of machinery we are talking about. I run into the same issue when asked to fix a computer that is acting up. Do you realize that in addition to the hardware issues that occur, a typical Windows 7 based consumer desk top computer is running well over 100,000 pieces of software?
The world just isn't that simple anymore.
There is the common thread, whateveah the cause(s). I expect a solution for a permanent fix not any of this shade tree hocus-pocus incorporating different tire PSI to encourage a rolling anchor.
That's crap. I didn't skin my knee and I don't need a coating of Mercurochrome and a band aid slapped on top.
As a man that's walked terra firma for over a half a century, fixing a mechanical problem or two along the way, it insults my intelligence for a service manager to drive my car and state that he can make it go right or left.
I have no interest in what he can make it do if he can't make it track in a neutral straight line, of its own accord, then he can't make it do doodly-squat. I expect the new car purchased to go in straight line w/o having to make it/force it one way or the other.
I'm not interested and I'm already weary of their Abbott and Costello routine of, "Who's on first?"
A different dealership's service department tells me Hyundai has told them that a TSB is in the works and coming down the pike.
Since when did they start giving out pre-press releases of an impending TSB issue? They don't; it's more BS taking a company stand.
They've been informed of the looming TSB, but haven't a clue about the fix. Yeah, right.
Consumer Reports has a left pull Sonata in their possession and they acknowledged on 12/28/2010 that thay are looking into the problem.
I'm all ears.
My take on it... too much "it's in specs" BS... too much dependence on the line is between the 2 ends of the extremes, it good... those doing align need to be able to "read" the numbers and know what will happen..
When I was doing align at previous dealer, I set the car up for a purpose,, that was make sure cambers were balanced and the toe was minimal, and the car was straight and had good road/steering feel.
The YF has seen a total front parts change at the 9/2010 production.. cannot use new parts on old chassis. If you put the 2 side by side, you should see the differences -- I have not seen the difference my self.
For the first run up to 9/2010, they is supposed to be supplying a bolt kit (2 bolts) to allow pivot of strut mount on steering knucle to provide some slop to allow camber to be adjusted (TOYOTA did this some 20yr ago, used bolts with reduced shoulder, I still have a couple here for my car somewhere)... then they will tweak the camber at both side, to push the front to right slightly, and maintinan minimal spread for cross camber... I think the number was somthing like -0.5 at left, and -0.2 or -0.3 at right.... well balanced and square, and well within spec.
For the after 9/2010 production, they have strut with elongated hole on the lower metal mounting to knuckle to allow some angle change. then you is supposed to adjsut the camber.
This all that I have heard in class, I have seen the new strut, it will be a left side part.
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Balanced and square... no excessive cross cambers front or rear.. Caster is fairly balanced/even. run what you got there.. Usual allowance for cross camber and caster is 0.5... star getting more spread, and things might start to happen.. Toyota Suspension I sat through say camber will win out over caster.. Hyundai did not bring this up..
Specs in my opinion is a crock of bull... what are specs for a custombuilt tube chassis for racing (NASCAR//sheet metal and composite sports like what run ROLEX 24 at Daytona yestreday into today) ?? There is none.. they are set up to either turn left, go straight, or road coarse..
Every day auto is no different.. I prefer to see front camber at 0.0 to -0.5, fairly even both sides.. get over 0.5 degree spread, the heavier negative will start pushing.
Toe, definitely not an an "its in specs thing",,, that got to be minimal toe to keep tight feeling, I think toe out is a problem for FWD, just my opinion, toe out gives car a loose stupid feel I think.
Rear sould have minimal toe in also, and camber of 0.0 to -0.5 camber maximum.
Sonata has 4 wheel capability.. doing just the front and letting the rear have its' way is a waste of alignment time.
Person doing align needs to be able to understand the actual current measures taken from car and see what them numbers mean as far as how the car is acting based on customer complaint
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I traded it in for a 2011 Turbo Limited. Right from pulling out of the driveway it pulled left, unlike the demo I test drove. The next day, an alignment, still pulled. Few days later a ride with the Service Manager, aligned again, still pulled. Few days later, Camber Bolt fix, aligned, still pulled. Almost two weeks later, ride with the Regional Manager, no pull with me, him and the Service Manager. Seems the added weight negates the pull. Had the Regional Mgr take it on his own, he found the pull and had a new strut ordered. New strut installed, according to the tech, the car still pulled. So they had the tech loosen the mounts to the front subframe, shifted it a bit to try to force the car to go straight. It was realigned with a left wheel camber angle of -0.7 and right at 0.0 degrees.
Thier own TSB on pulling 10-ss-008-1 states that the cross camber only be 0.5 degrees, here its 0.7. On all by the greatest crowns the car still pulls left. On the greater crowns it will pull left then right, following the crown only the right most lane. Get into a middle or left lane and the left pull reappears with vigor.
Now I'm back and forth with Hyundai's Consumer Affairs, I'll post the results. I simply stated that I want either a new car, same color, same specs that doesn't pull to MY satifaction not some Service Manager who's eager to say it's perfect. To me, perfect actually means it goes at least straight when it's supposed to or give me my money back. I'll post follow ups.
How much gas in the tank for these test rides after repair? 18.5 gl At 6.25 lb a gl comes in nipping on the heels of a hundred lbs. This weight, if similar to other vechicles, is beyond/behind the rear suspension which would seem to have a greater mechanical advantage as a lever if the rear axle was solid.
Think pulling a small utility trailer w/ATV solid axle vs rear independant. Solid axle supports tongue weight while independant squats.
Yet that squat is what makes the independant ride smoother, maintain an even keel, especially on hills.
So, on an ATV, independant rear suspension, on the side of a hill sloping left to right the ride is better coz the left side spring will squat while the right side spring will stretch trying to equalize the load on an uneven surface as opposed to a solid axle staying more or less parallel w/slope.
Now, apply weight in a liquid, that like electricity will follow the path of least resistance, behind the rear suspension.
There's more weight on the right rear and that will tend to pull the front end to the left.
The roll bar attempts to even out the pressure, akin to a solid axle, and results in the lever mechanics, weight behind the axle, that lifts the front end.
The heavy liquid rolls to the right on a heavy crown when in the right lane.
The independant rear suspension should counter this by squat left/stretch right except for the roll bar exerting force to keep the car level w/road that's on a slight slope.
Big guy in the passenger seat would help fight/anchor the front up and left lift. A guy in the left rear seat would help balance the gasoline that's settled to the right.
I guess if you didn't have much gas in the tank that he guy in the back seat would be to more advantage sitting in the right seat loading the right side between the axles
This is similar to changing the psi in the tires allowing the lower pressure right side to be a rolling anchor.
The more weight between the axles, the less the weight outside of the axles can influence the entire car.
However, this doesn't explain the left drift from the left side of the crown unless we conclude that the driver's weight, front left, offsets the gasoline weight.
All things being equal; We would need a right side steering car on the left of a crown to see if it would pull to the right.
Yet, this offers a hypothosis on why my car sometimes, on flat/slight crown two lane doesn't pull/drift to the left and why loaded cars seem to stop pulling.
The wild card to me is still the EPS unit combined w/18" low profile tires.
I'm curious how a 205/70/15 wheel would track. It's basically the same overall diameter w/lots of sidewall to flex.
Since I drive myself to work, my 153 lbs is behind the wheel in most instances, the pull is apparent then and when my girlfriend a svelt 112 lbs in the passenger seat, gas tank approx 1/2 full.
My old '06 Sonata w/ 17" wheels tracked straight as an arrow and my rickety 2000 cherokee with a lift kit installed and aligned in my driveway with an angle finder and tape measure tracks almost a good and it has 31" tires. I'm sure the suspensions of these vehicles differ greatly from the 2011 Sonata as well as the steering systems, the older models being hydraulic and the new one EPS. So what makes this car pull?
Mechanically, the fixes Hyundai performed have failed, while the left pull has been lessened so a small extent, the issue still exists. Their shifting of the sub-frame was a last ditch effort in my eyes. The camber on the left front leaning towards the passenger side at a -0.7 degrees is an ineffective way of forcing the steering straight. The vehicle just does not track well and Hyundai may or may not know the root cause. It would be hard for me to imagine that though given they engineered the car and not all them display the pull. I truley do wonder what the differences between the pull and non-pull models are.
I think it will come out eventually that it will be a bad batch of assembly parts at the factory level. Earlier I pondered that a few thousand cars might be affected. Someone said they basically thought I was crazy suggesting there was that many. As it turns out, i have read that apparently there hundreds of thousands that are affected. That one shocked me. You would think they would discover a bad batch of components before producing that many cars.
This will take some of the shine off they have been enjoying lately in the spotlight. Let's hope something of similar seriousness doesn't show up on the new Elantra, or it will give the impression that looks and style aside, they are rushing these to market perhaps not only a bit too speedily, but also maybe with a too restrictive price point, which leaves suppliers cutting corners. These are usually mistakes that only really new vehicle companies make in their very first years.
I believe that Toyota also have fallen into the same trap of recent years. Trying to offer too much car for too little money and have done it by outsourcing to the lowest bidder of parts, with the mindset that "we will deal with issues if and when they surface". Hyundai with content.... (bells and whistles, and people do soak up that kind of thing...I can't tell you how many times shoppers here, refer back to Hyundai and/or Kia and say, "but they have USB and iPod etc etc as standard equipment"). And with Toyota it is not so much bells and whistles, as it is with their old reputation of perceived quality.
Their 6 speed in the camry is a gear hunter from what I understand. And when I test drove one, that's exactly what it did. Why would I want to give up a 10 YO car that runs better..?
Would you really wish to go back to points, bias-ply and carburetors?
I think the problem possibly lies in the extra torque of the turbo as this problem seemed to mushroom/coincide w/building of the turbos. Speaking of, that could be a contributing factor to the use of low profile tires.
I'm going to guess that torque steer would pull the car to the right, so they engineered a little counter pull to the left.
The short/non-flexing sidewall doesn't contribute to the torque steer by flexing and because of that stiffness tracks left unforgivingly.
I've read enough to know that I don't want to waste time having the service department go through every little thing trying to isolate a problem when a TSB should be out surely within the next sixty days.
It's still annoying, but maybe after the magic strut all will be kosher in unday land.
Never was a fan of FWD and if the Genesis coupe had this motor I would've bought it instead.
However, I do like the twin scroll motor w/six speed slush box even if it does need a limited slip differential to lay the power to the pavement.
That would've allowed more boost in the lower gears and better 0-60 times if the Korean proprietary A/T would hold up under the additional strain.
Some of them replaced the standard turbo 18" ones with 16" snow tires and the pull disappeared.
In mine, I had what I would call a slight left "tug" which was completely fixed with a front end alignment. The dealer claimed that some of them get misaligned during transport. However, I don't believe I had the same problem with which others are struggling.
All the talk on replacement parts to fix the problem have, for the most part, been adjustable camber bolt for the left strut and the new, magic left strut.
You have four points on the car and all wheels are alignment adjustable, yet only on side, one end is obtaining new parts.
Three sides are pointing straight and the front left is listing left. W/short, stiff sidewalls there's not enough play and it's pulling the front end.
The faster you go the more force that's applied by the road to the slightly askew left tyre.
The pull isn't enough at low speeds to cause a drift, but at higher speeds it's plenty for the left tyre to pull the steering linkage enough to influence the right front tyre. Then it's Katy bar the door, look out left lane.
The pull didn't go away w/new, 16" wheels. The left pull is still there it's just that w/more sidewall to flex the gyroscopic forces overcome the slight misalignment.
The higher sidewall tyres are more forgiving as their path is not as affected by virtue of the sidewall flex helping to find common ground/happy medium/sweet spot.
The car doesn't handle that great, so they slap some performance style 225 X 18 X 45s on the car to help along w/beefier roll bars on the SE.
I'm not sure if the LTD and the GSL have the same thickness roll/sway bars.
I do not know the electric system Hyundai is using, but if they use an electric motor to run a hydraulic pump, then it will be prone to engine rpms, and then have to rely on some form of electronic control or software to lower its boost at highway speeds. Of course they engineered in a counter-pull to address crown. (they should not have done that if it's true...too much complexity for such a varying environment...huge mistake) So when you consider the varying crowns, weight placement in car, speeds, suspension/steering geometry etc etc it is no wonder some input is having an affect on pull.
But there are some very basic points that should be original base points of reference that shouldn't have to be messed with, IMO. One is having to change tire sizes, and at least another would be changing the allowable parameters of original factory spec tolerances of alignment. If they do a TSB to change those tolerances even the slightest bit, then I suggest all owners watch their tire wear very carefully and see that they aren't paying the price somewhere else.
As for turbo and torque-steer being the culprit, I don't think I agree on this. Torque steer is not really noticeable on a flat highway at a sustained speed. In order to blame TS, you would have to find that it does not pull at a sustained speed, but instantly pulls when you accelerate, and the harder you accelerate, the more aggressive the pull. Now, it might do that now, but the key part of this is that it also pulls at a sustained speed.
Does anyone know the type of steering rack is being used? Is it a conventional rack and pinion hydraulic type? Or some heavy duty potentiometer type of electric system?
There's far more complaints w/left pull than w/steering recall.
Remain vigilant expecting your new car to operate as a new car.
My case has now been escalated by Hyundai Consumer Services to their "so called" team of experts.
Second time I am at the dealer and like many others before me have experienced, service manager drove the car, technician drove the car and they of course see no pull and steering is behaving properly.
This is what surprises me, service manager & Hyundai Consumer Services expert that I talked to say that is how the car is built and basically just deal with it. They cannot do anything about the problem. They actually want me to test drive other new sonata's and see if they are pulling to the left. Don’t know what good that will do.
At this time basically stuck with this dangerous car. Only hope is if Hyundai has the decency and any clean bone in them to step up to the plate and acknowledge the issue and send out a recall to correct it.
Note: I have reported the issue to NHTSA.
They told me the same story about my HD radio."All the cars do it". I now went right ot the service mgr of the dealership to see if I can get somewhere.
p.s. my 2011 sonata ltd does NOT have your problem, but it is not a turbo. Good luck!!
I encourage everyone to register at:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?showforum=129
That link is for the YF Turbo models and they have a poll for those w/pull to participate.
Mine pulls solo and w/passanger, but I've never had anyone in the back seats.
I think Hyundai is dragging their feet. I've talked numerous times w/Customer Service and twice some top dog was supposed to call, yet I've spoken w/no regional gomer to date.
Some folks claim to have had the magic left strut installed and say it still pulls.
I'm starting to get a whiff of a class action suit swirling in the divine wind.
I expect a TSB to be issued this month.
Me thinks something is rotten in the state of Denmark.
Sayonara Sonata is not going to be brushed off w/BS...
but that have a pull issue mentioned on Jan. 9 but not mentioned since. I wonder if Edmunds is having the same problem having the situation resolved?
Needless to say I am TOTALLY dissatisfied with the car. Love the 35-36 MPG on the highway, the drivetrain is exceptional as is the absence of any wind noise in the cabin. On the other hand, the road noise in the cabin has reached 98 decibals with the Tech on board with proper equipment to measure the noise level. The Engineers have REALLY missed the acoustical design of the car, mis designed the steering of the car and the ergonomics truly leave something to be desired.
I have filed a " Lemon Law" grievance with the State Attorney General for either an exchange for a DIFFERENT Hyundai or a FULL refund of the monies spent. Anyone pursued these issues to the FULLEST extent of the Consumer Protection Laws? This tracking issue is a SAFETY issue and as of this writing, Hyundai has NOT replied to the feedback nor have they done ANYTHING to really address the potential recall issues.
If anyone is considering a 2011 Sonata, I'd wait until the 2012's are out WITH these items corrected. The problem is, I do not think Hyundai is prepared to do anything about it! SO, Buyer BEWARE! This IS not a Benz or Audi of any sort, but seems to be a "kiddie car" for driving around town and looking "cool"...at least in my experience of 7500 miles in the car. What a TOTAL dissapointment...
The Turbo Sonata I am in now is absolutely bullet proof. Comfortable seats, drives straight with a lot of power when needed.
I feel for the people who got problematic models, but I just wanted to stand up a little bit for Hyundai here. Our family has owned 4, and we have never spent a dime on them other than for routine maintenance.
I've posted that I'm seeing less than .05% as having this left pull phenomenon.
However, I will remain vigilant because I want my top of the line 2.0T LTD to drive straight as well.
When Hyundai fixes my car I will continue in their praise, yet until that time I'm going to raise a little hell...
The only problem we have had is the burgler alarm connection wasn't tight. There is no steering problem, it has great power. 37.5 mpg, comfy, good radio sound. I live in the north California mountains at the 3200 foot level. I have a 5000 foot mountain pass I have to travel over to get to the nearest large town which is Redding,Ca. My 37.5 mpg was on freeway from Redding to Chico, Ca. I only get 27mpg in the mountains.
My 2011 Limited Turbo purchased in Nov. also pulls left. After three visits to the dealer, and a fruitless call from Chet, I filed a Lemon Law suit thru the BBB as well.
I also live in Ohio, so I would love to compare notes or hear the outcome of your arbitration if it has happened.
Good luck.
I've had my 2011 Sonata Ltd. for 1 1/2 weeks (650 mi). The brake light just came on. When I tap the brakes it goes away but comes back on after a stop at an intersection. It feels likes a sticky caliper. Has anyone else experienced this? I plan on bringing into the dealership to have it checked out.
You were on the right track. I brought it in this morning. After inspection, the service manager told me that it was a leak in the brake lining. He said that this is the first time that he has experieced this with an '11 Sonata. Thinks that maybe it was missed on final inspection at the factory. Got a rental car (dealership will pick up cost) and my car should be ready on Monday. Don't know if anyone else has experienced this. I have previously owned 2 Santa Fe's (have an '05 now). that had zero factory defects. Hope that this is not a sign of things to come.
Wish we all got a bullet proof sonata like yours since we all paid for a brand new trouble free sonata.
No one is looking for issues in a new car and no one enjoy's visiting the dealer multiple times to get issues fixed like pulling to the left.
I did and they found car is pulling to the left. To correct the problem, they decided to replace the front drivers side strut and do a front end alignment.
This did help to reduce the pressure off the streering.
However car is still pulling to the left. Again, I sincerly hope that Hyundai will take this issue seriously and come up with a solution ASAP.