2010 VW Golf

124

Comments

  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    I have 5spd and go from 3rd to fifth or second to fourth.
    I get at least 25 to 26 in town especially when I get to forty.On the Hiway I get 31 -32 @ 60mph w/o Cruise Control the engine going up hill on CC burns gas according to the MFD.
    I didn't think I'd like this car but it's fun to drive,.corners greatand no noise from road or weather elements. Why , its insulated under whell wells alot quicker and quieter than my 2008 Mazda. I tried a Mini but bougt the Tht dub.
  • rte2commuterrte2commuter Member Posts: 9
    I'm trading my 2001 Jetta TDI (225,000 miles) in for a new Golf TDI which is due to arrive on the lot next week (you have to grab these before they arrive or you'll never get one around here). I never put much time into non-essential car care before because of work, kids, a long commute, and about 100 other things I'd rather be doing. But now my kids are all out of the nest, I'll be the sole driver, I'll have more time on my hands (I may retire in another year or two), and I'm thinking I want to keep this new car in tip-top condition. If this one lasts as long as my Jetta did, I owe it to myself to keep it looking nice. So aside from following the scheduled maintenance milestones religiously, what else can I be doing to keep this car sweet? Is Rain-X a good idea or a bad idea for the windshield? Should the dash be treated with one of those dashboard "sun screen" products? I don't have a garage and I live in a snow-belt state. What can I do to protect the finish? Is there a good online "Car Preservation for Dummies" article? Maybe there's nothing specific to VWs I need to know - or maybe there is? I love my old Jetta and I expect I'll love my new Golf as well. How do you show a car you really love it?
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    I put a Dash-Mat on my Golf when it was new, because the Saab I owned before that had big cracks in the dash. The Dash-Mat is not for everyone but i've been happy with it.

    You might look at the Invisible Bra, I think it uses 3M material. Somewhat expensive, but if you protect the leading edges of the hood, bumper, and maybe the rearview mirrors, they will look as good as the rest of the car after 200k or 300k miles.

    Do not buy any aftermarket product paint sealant from the dealership. They will try to sell you something, can't remember what it's called but it's like throwing away $300-500.

    You will love the Golf. Mine has almost 310k miles and it's still a wonderful car, as much fun to drive as when it was new -- or maybe better, I've added a few extras over the years.

    If you have not joined the TDI Club, you should ASAP. www.tdiclub.com
  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    edited March 2010
    I always put them on . I just had 1 put on $225.00 gauge is thicker than on our BMW and Lexus. You can't see it espescially on silver.This stuff is use on airplane propellars to protect blades.
    Don't buy anythinything from dealer is right.($ 500.00)they said they give it back when I buy again and I never have to wax again.
    When I bought a 2002 RSX type S that was my first clear mask I did it myself with baby schampoo and a hair dryer, but if I was u go to some tint shop or ask some kid who does it.I did buy from weather tech a cargo liner and front floor mats and saved alot.
    Never ever thought I get a V dub again,because of the problems they have had.
    However, the TDI has been a good car and it's solid. I tried a Mazda way too noisy and not insulated like the TDI or Golf.We got the Dub for trips to home depot and the thin air in the Rockies as soon as the continental dive and Loveland pass opens again. We are really going to test it. Oh, I forgot 2 of my cars came with clear 3m already on front and rear bumpers. So I sent the Extra back to Texas. :shades:
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Puffin: when you are climbing a steep grade, like on the approach to the Eisenhower Tunnel, keep your revs up even if this means downshifting. Low revs and a heavy engine load put extreme stress on the TDI's turbo, and probably on all turbo-charged cars. I would recommend selecting a gear that puts the engine speed at 2500 rpm or higher.
  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    I think you're right on there.I went to New Mexico,Taos and coming up @ down the the switchbacks I was down shifting.When it's spring time to be honest with you or summer you get caught in CO on top of a mountain in the rain and that red clay is worse than snow. I've told my wife to get out and walk until i get down to her.
    The TDI is just right though weight and HP. VW has gotten it right. They do go fast off the lot.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The torque-peak (thus most efficent engine speed) on my TDI is 1800 RPM. This is why I can get the best MPG at 1800 RPM. Obviously, 1800 RPM would be the best engine-speed for climbing hill too.

    I am not privvy to the specific torque-curve for your TDI engine... but I have to assume that 2500 RPM seems WAYYY too high for a TDI engine efficency... sure, it wont hurt the engine, but you would be near the "empty revs" portion of the RPM range.

    "empty revs" is a technical-term which means you are spinning the engine faster but not getting any more power out of it. (based on HP and torque curves of the engine)

    I am not advocating "lugging" an engine... "lugging" below engine-speed where the turbocharger is stable is not a good thing. However, overrevving beyond the torque-peak is unnecessarry - especially on a TDI engine.

    Perhpas you should learn more about the torque-curve of your TDI engine. Using that data, you can adjust your driving-style to acheive best MPG. (Try to stay in the "fat" part of the torque-curve)
  • puffin1puffin1 Member Posts: 276
    edited March 2010
    I go to the dealer next week. I never drove a diesal unless the Peouget I drove the gunbarrell to Denver was. I was on the pro tour now, it's has Jeep as a sponsor, we had Peouget, Audi sponsor us to.
    I have 2 gassers and the bombTDI. I always look at the tach to check my speed and freewheeling on the road. 35rpm =about 70 on highway.When I down shifted I just try to keep it out of the red.That"s wifes car and mineThe TDI does get the best mpg @ 1800 but it must have a limiter doesn't it? I'll tell you something about that Audi, and we had 3 on the East Coast and 3 in the west, toughest car I ever drove.
    Thanks I'll check with service next week. Oh, how many miles a year would you have to drive in justifying the purchase of the TDI? I was ask that, and told my friend I didn't know ,I just bought it cause it suited our needs. We are coming East in 3 weeks and I'm storing the VW until next Oct. thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You asked " how many miles a year would you have to drive in justifying the purchase of the TDI? "

    ANSWER: Why does your friend feel that "miles per year" would be a suitable metric for justifying the purchase of the TDI?

    I think your answer to him was just right!

    I am not sure I have ever met anyone that can "justify" why they purchsed a specific vehicle. (using raw numbers as an answer) I beleive this is because everyones definition of "justify" may be different. One person may like how the seats feel on their [non-permissible content removed]... the next person may like the smell of the exhaust.

    If one wishes to use raw numbers... Being an engineer, I have a spreadsheet showing every drop of fuel ever pumped into my TDI. I can give you all kinds of "metrics"... but for me, the SINGLE most useful number is "Cost Per Mile". This is because "Cost Per Mile" can be used to compare ANY 2 vehicles reguardless of fuel-type. (Propane, electricty, gasoline, diesel...etc)

    BTW: The "Cost Per Mile" for my 2003 TDI is $0.05 per mile averaged over 100,000 miles. You would be hard-pressed to find another vehicle which comes close to that!!

    As a comparison, my 2006 Subaru Baja "Cost Per Mile" is $0.12 per mile. (over double!)
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZMember Posts: 5,218
    your number (0.05/mi) adds up to $5000 over the 100K miles, I'm guessing you're talking operating cost (fuel & oil) only -- no depreciation, no insurance, no nothing. Sounds like you've had zero maintenance beyond oil & filters, but where I live, as a minimum I'd have gone through a couple sets of tires (@$300-500 per), windshield wipers, brakes, etc, even with zero parts actually breaking. Since you appear to have driven a VW well over 100K miles with nothing requiring repair, I'll submit that that's somewhat unusual.

    Possibly the point the earlier poster was trying to make was that over 100K miles, that $5K premium for the diesel will add up to 0.05/mile all by itself.

    I agree with you that cost/mile is a terrific way to evaluate one car against another, but ALL the costs have to be included to make it a fair comparison. As you pointed out, the relative value one places on CPM vs. having a 700 mile range & bags of torque, vs. driving the flavor of-the-month Pious instead of a sturdy diesel vehicle, etc. is all over the map.

    As they say, WMMV.

    To each their own. :shades:
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Generally speaking, the more miles you drive each year, the better suited you are for a TDI. If you drive under 10k miles annually, then you use so little fuel that it really doesn't matter what you drive -- and it rarely makes sense to buy a new car anyway. OTOH, if you're driving 25k or 35k or 50k miles each year, then there is no better car than a VW TDI.

    Lastly, the extra price at purchase for a VW with a TDI engine is not really a cost of ownership, since the resale value after 3 years or 5 years is equally high. At least in the past, the gas-engine models lost more value than the diesel-engine one. And if you go back around 8-10 years, the gas-engine models are so cheap that they are rarely worth fixing if something serious goes wrong; but the 1998-1999 TDI Jettas, Golf,and NBs, and the 1996-1997 Passat TDIs, are all still worth fixing and owning.
  • gagricegagrice Pahrump, NevadaMember Posts: 31,450
    that $5K premium for the diesel will add up to 0.05/mile all by itself.

    What premium? Here in CA the largest auto market diesel is less than RUG for about half the year. Currently at my local Shell station, RUG is $3.12 and ULSD is $2.99. The highest priced RUG is $3.89 and the highest price for ULSD is $3.39. That makes the RUG burning Golf about 40% more expensive just for gas. For me I would get the GTI if I was to buy a gas burner. That would make the TDI even better against premium. Over the last year ULSD has never been more than Premium gas here in So CA.

    As far as initial cost, and depreciation. You will most certainly get a higher rate of depreciation with the Golf gasser. Plus selling the TDI yourself is a lot easier. The demand for used VW oil burners is always high.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZMember Posts: 5,218
    edited March 2010
    . . .that $5K premium for the diesel will add up to 0.05/mile all by itself.

    What premium?


    I was referring to an earlier-referenced premium for the vehicle/engine, not the fuel. Maybe the diesel in the Golf is the same price as the gas engine, but in some vehicles it's hard to get the diesel without significant additional cost, part of which is often an upgraded accessory/feature package.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Driving 50k miles each year would probably mean spending something like 1000 hours per year behind the wheel. Unless all that driving is actually a job, I can not imagine why anyone would drive anywhere near that much.
  • gagricegagrice Pahrump, NevadaMember Posts: 31,450
    Amazingly there are a lot of people that live in San Diego and work in Orange County and Los Angeles. That is 200+ miles a day. Over 50K miles per year. I would hate it. Better in a Golf TDI than a Prius. Even better if you pull the seats out of a GTI and put in your Golf TDI.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    here's one example. i drove about 60k miles per year for a few years recently..
    that was with a 35x2 mile commute, plus lots of kid-shuttling on weekdays & weekends. multiply by 2, because kids' mama was doing almost the same miles/year.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited March 2010
    You are correct. My spreadsheet only has fuel-costs on it. Since ALL vehilces need tires, brakes, insurance and occasional maintenance... one can consider that a "wash" and do not need to figure that in to the equasion when comparing vehicles in "cost per mile" comparisons.

    If you really feel the need to factor in the scheduled maintenance... The TDI costs LESS than gasser due to longer OCI and no ignition system to maintain.

    If you really feel the need to factor in resale-cost... the TDI ALWAYS holds it value over gasser. I drive my vehicles into the ground till there is very little value left because this is the most economical way to own a vehicle. Hence, I dont give a $%$# about resale value. I simply bank what I would have paid in monthy car-payments. When the time comes, I pay cash for my next Diesel-hybred!!

    Heck, I have not even run thru the 12Year/Unlimited milage warrante on my 2003 TDI yet.
  • 10golftdi10golftdi Member Posts: 2
    I finally found a 2010 Golf TDI 4 door last week and bought it. I drove the first 125 miles around Phoenix, then hit the highway to Vegas before ending my trip in Pahrump, NV where I filled up for the first time. 545 miles and just under 14 gallons.

    The car rides very well, is very quiet, climbed the mountain pass (about 2500 ft) between Vegas and Pahrump without a down shift or drop in speed on cruse, and left me quite satisfied with my choice of this vehicle.

    The TDI and DSG auto work well together, keeping the revs low while the torque brings smiles leaving the lights. I haven't used the sport mode yet, but will after another 1000 miles or so.

    No complaints. A good, comfortable, sporty vehicle that performs very well and is very economical. I expect to see 50+ mpg highway mileage as the engine breaks in.

    Why doesn't everyone drive one of these? :shades:
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I expect to see 50+ mpg highway mileage as the engine breaks in.

    50 mpg may be achieved by steady cruising for long periods of time when the speed is kept 55 mph to 63 mph. Don't expect 50 mpg, you will likely be disappointed with current TDI as they typically will deliver 40 to 45 mpg highway, even after break in.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    During this early break-in period, you should not drive to maximize fuel economy. Instead you should work the engine harder, change engine speeds frequently, accelerate more briskly from stoplights and on freeway onramps, etc. Gradually use more of the RPM band -- up to about 4000 RPM now, later on around 4400, the redline is 5100 but you may never rev that high with stock tuning.

    TDI engines take a long time to break-in completely; even after 20k miles there will still be gradual improvements in engine performance and fuel economy. If you baby the engine now, it will take longer to achieve all the potential it has to offer. So for at least the first 3k-4k miles, keep track of your fuel mileage but do not drive so as to maximize fuel mileage.

    Lastly, the use of cruise control is not recommended with a new TDI engine. On long trips this is unreasonable. So what you can do is, about every 10-15 minutes, when the traffic is clear, drop down a gear, let the car slow, let's say from 70 to 55, then accelerate briskly to 75 or so before putting it back in top gear and resuming cruise control at 70. If you really want to accelerate the break-in process, then there is a method but it will only work if you're traveling alone since it will drive your passenger(s) crazy with constant speed changes.
  • 10golftdi10golftdi Member Posts: 2
    On flat roads at 70, no wind, my instant mileage is 65 - 68. I have noticed the average mpg reads a few mpg high as compared to manual calculation at fill up. It follows that the instant mpg reading on the trip computer would be ambitious as well.

    Real world hills and wind will pull these numbers down, but if you look at the euro spec models mileage ratings, these vehicles are capable of 50+ mpg on the highway.

    I'll update in a few weeks... :shades:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    CR (march 2010 issue) measured 49 mpg hwy. Their test, unlike EPA's, is, I believe, based on freeway type driving at a steady 65 mph.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited March 2010
    yes.... but their test is NOT on a well broken-in engine. It takes many miles of deliberate driving habits to nurture an engine that will return optimum MPG. (Highway-driving at a constant speed is perhaps the WORST way to break-in an engine.)

    The MPG numbers you see from EPA and most magazines are NOT reflective of real-world acheivement. Instead, they are based on engines which are still "tight" and worse, may have been poorly broken-in.

    Spend some time reading about the high-MPG folks at TDIclub. com and you will start to understand what I am saying here.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    edited April 2010
    Don't have a TDI (just helped my mom get one though) but I have no problem crushing the CR mpg numbers with my 2007 Accord I4 5MT. Bump up the tire pressure, 0w-20 synthetic oil, well broken in engine (80k miles now) and I have no problem getting well over 40 mpg at 65 mph (closer to 45 mpg actually). I have gone over 630 miles on a tank that included some city driving and still got 43.5 mpg for the tank. I have averaged over 50 mpg on 200 mile trips (from my calibrated scangauge) if I keep the speed just under 60 mph and conditions are good (this is on rural two lane roads).

    I am extremely confident that I could get 60 mpg with a TDI. It may be my next purchase, but still a lot of life in the Accord so it could be a while.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Tailgating semis, perhaps?
  • rte2commuterrte2commuter Member Posts: 9
    I just picked up my new 2010 Golf TDI (manual, 2-door) on Thursday (April Fool's Day) and I took it for a 124 mile road trip on Saturday. Mostly fast highways, some hill climbing. It showed 44.2 mpg for that trip. I did some around-town driving on Friday, so I've logged a total of 306 miles now with an overall 41.4 mpg (around town for me is a lot of country roads).

    I couldn't be happier with this car. The ride is quiet and solid with fast pick-up, it feels right at home doing 70, and the sound system is fantastic. My only problem is - I will probably never make it into 6th gear - 5th gear was cruising at 70 mph with plenty of room to spare. :)
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    You should be in 6th gear way before 70 mph.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you truly want your engine to be long-lived with maximum MPG... do not forget to apply the tried-n-true break-in process as written up over at tdiclub.com

    Long highway trips should NOT be undertaken with new engine. Instead, take the back roads with lots of stop-n-go so you can apply the crutial accelleration / decelleration process that seats the rings before the piston-walls glaze.

    Expect well above 55 MPG on the highway once the engine is properly toned.
  • rte2commuterrte2commuter Member Posts: 9
    I'm going to minimize the highway driving now for the rest of the break-in. I just had to take it out for one early weekend trip.

    Now about driving in 6th - I'm in the habit of downshifting when the rpms drop below 2000. When I was doing 70 it was running at 2300 in 5th gear. So it sounds like I should be running at lower rpms to get into 6th. What's your lower range of rpms for highway cruising?
  • rte2commuterrte2commuter Member Posts: 9
    Can anyone recommend a good source for side moldings to protect the doors in parking lots? My VW dealer tells me they have side moldings for the 4-door Golf, but not the 2-door Golf ... :confuse:
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Cruising on level ground the TDI should be fine between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm. No need to cruise at 2300.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Dudley, that is true... but the key workds are "cruise" and "level ground". If you are putting a load on the engine, then you put an unnecessary stress on the turbo when you drive at low RPM in one of the higher gears. If you are climbing hills, just because your TDI can make it all the way to the top at 2000 RPM in 6th, while every else is slowing down or downshifting, does not mean you should drive that way.

    The engine computer will put your TDI engine into "limp mode" if you try to do something that will damage the turbo. This is more likely to happen if you stomp on the accelerator at 1500-1800 RPM in a high gear, or try to accelerate briskly if your engine is already under a heavy load at low RPM.

    In case of "limp mode", you have to do an engine restart. I have done this a couple times over the years by just pushing in the clutch and doing a quick restart; but of course it is much safer to pull off the road first.

    The advice I give here applies for the life of the car. During the break-in period, the driver should not be babying the engine or at least not babying it all the time.
  • us1us1 Member Posts: 1
    As the previous owner of a number of VWs I was contemplating the purchase of the new clean TDI until I found out that VW is clinging to the rubber cam belt set up for the TDI. I had presumed that all of their engines now used chain driven cams as does the 2.5 but the TDI continues with the rubber belts, a cost saving measure. You pay more up front for the TDI and then will have a thousand dollar maintence bill to replace the belts somewhere between 40 and 80K miles. I will wait for the gasoline Polo to appear to evaluate.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    edited May 2010
    Interesting and in 80K miles you'd save about 1000 gallons of gasoline with the TDI over the 2.5. Between the price difference and the extra maintenance cost, it is probably pretty close to a wash between the two assuming that the other extra standard features on the TDI are worth, say, $2000.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited May 2010
    I do not beleive using belt for cam is a "cost saving measure".

    An engine-designer needs to consider a large number of variables when developing a new design. Sure, one of them may be cost... but that is often near the bottom of the list.

    A belt-driven cam has a lot of advantages over chain.
    *)Less Weight
    *)no lubrication required
    *) Power-pulses of diesel engine can tear a chain up pretty quick while belt is more forgiving.
    *)Belt replacement is 100,000 miles on my TDI...not a big deal.

    A chain DOES wear out and WILL need to be replaced at some point. With the beating from a diesel-engine, it may be LESS than 100,000 miles. (even gear-driven may not stand up to the beating.)

    Why do you think that Harley Davenson motorcycles use BELT DRIVE to rear wheel instaead of chain?... because the belt lasts longer than chain with a big , pulsing, engine. (the belt soaks up the pulses...a chain would break prematurley)

    If the presense of a belt-driven cam is the ONLY reason you are staying away... then I feel your reasoning is flawed.

    Let me ask you these things....
    Are you aware that the pully on the TDI alternator is specially designed specifically because the diesel engine can decellerate faster than the alternator rotor?

    Are you aware that the teeth on the clean-diesel timing-belt pullies have variable-spacing specifically to compensate for the power-pulses from the crankshaft?

    Bottom line... you are making a mistake when you second-guess the German engineers who designed the engine. (they know what they are doing)
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Since the 2002 model year, all TDIs have had either an 80k-mile or 100k-mile timing belt replacement interval. As for the cost of replacement, there are TDI experts in most states who will do the work for well under $1000, and this includes replacing not just the TB and tensioner but also the roller/idlers, the water pump, the serpentine belt, and any of the various torque-to-yield bolts which should not be replaced. Typically, if you have this job done at a VW dealership, it will cost MORE than $1000 and the only new parts you get are the TB and tensioner, and MAYBE the water pump.

    So visit www.tdiclub.com and check out the "recommended TDI mechanics" sticky thread for a TDI expert near your location. Then ask for a review of the nearby mechanics from club members who have used their services. VW dealerships should be avoided after the warranty period -- this is not just my opinion, despite the efforts of Stefan Jacoby (the president of VWoA) the dealership service departments still suck.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZMember Posts: 5,218
    Very helpful post.

    Thanks! :D
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    I meant to say that the torque-to-yield bolts which should ALWAYS be replaced. But VW dealerships never do, most do not even stock those special bolts. If they are reused, if they are torqued incorrectly, the bolts can break and the engine can come loose from the engine mount on the passenger-side end. It has happened lots of times. Sometimes the bolt rips out of the engine block and the block itself cannot be repaired but must be replaced. Lots of expensive damage that can be prevented by replacing these $2 bolts every 100k miles.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    It may be that the timing belt on the TDI is a perfectly reasonable design, but I do not buy the arguments that it is superior to a properly designed chain drive system. I would guess that there are diesel engines that do have a chain and that the chain typically never requires replacement.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    edited May 2010
    Timing belts are superior when precise timing is required, because they do not stretch as they age. As the links in a chain wear, the chain becomes more "sloppy". Usually an expert mechanic can warn the owner when a chain needs to be replaced, but if a chain fails there is even more damage than when a belt fails. I had a timing chain fail in a Saab 2-liter gas engine once and it threw a chunk of metal through the valve cover. I should have just replaced the engine, it would have cost about as much as the repairs.

    Chains and gear-driven valve-timing systems tend to be found in the more-expensive engines -- not only because they are more expensive to design and manufacture, but because they are more expensive to maintain. The typical middle-class driver cannot afford to buy or maintain the high-priced cars with chain-driven timing systems. That does not mean timing belts are an inferior solution to the problem, however,
    Porsche timing belt
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    edited May 2010
    Chains and gear-driven valve-timing systems tend to be found in the more-expensive engines...

    I assume you referring only to diesel engines with that comment and this one:

    The typical middle-class driver cannot afford to buy or maintain the high-priced cars with chain-driven timing systems.

    :confuse:
  • bodidbodid Member Posts: 87
    Does anyone know if the you can purchase the Golf TDI with the GTI's leather seats? I love these seats (friend has them on his GTI) and they're 10 way adjustable instead of 8.

    I've got short legs and need to lower the seat more than I currently can in the Golf. the adjustability of the GTI autobahn seats really work for me and are about the most comfortable seats I've ever driven in.

    Any comments, advice?

    Thanks,

    Bo.
  • nwngnwng Member Posts: 663
    you guys are lucky in CA. I've been paying attention to ulsd prices in my town and they are usually at least $.20 more than 93. And I don't drive cars that requires premium. Oil companies playing games again......
  • gagricegagrice Pahrump, NevadaMember Posts: 31,450
    I love those GTI seats also. They should fit if you could get a dealer to upgrade them.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I'm in search of a reliable hatchback. I've never owned a Volkswagen and was wondering if you all could please post your experience if it has been a good car or in the garage for repairs and how well it handles in the snow. I live where we get a lot of snow and use snow tires on my Subaru. I haven't driven a front wheel drive in 15 years. I'm looking at the 2010 Golf base model automatic. How is the gas mileage, have you gotten better than the posted mpg? Thank you.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    very reliable; I've ~500K miles on TDIs so far.
    >>40 mpg with TDI no matter what kind of driving I do.
    (the passat TDI only got 37 mpg tank after tank).

    they amazing/unstoppable in snow/ice with blizzaks, until
    the snow gets too deep for the ground clearance.

    you haven't driven fwd in 15 years?
    you'll probably like FWD in snow but aside from that you might not like it so much!
  • raiderinnyraiderinny Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Sorry, but I see no threads regarding this. There's one in my local dealership:
    2010 Volkswagen Golf 4dr HB Auto PZEV - listed at $20,929. What's a fair reasonable price I can get it at?

    Invoice is $19,262.00, correct? I'm just trying to find out what deals others have gotten and what is a realistic target price to really counter them with and stand pat on.

    Thanks in advance, I apologize if its on the wrong forum, but I've looked around and couldnt find a "I paid this much for my Golf...," thread.

    Regards,
    Vic
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    A salesman I know at a VW dealership has two 2011 Golf TDIs en route, one at the port and the other still on the boat. So no more 2010s. And even if you find one, I'm not sure they are discounting.
  • gagricegagrice Pahrump, NevadaMember Posts: 31,450
    Are there any changes from the 2010 Golf to the 2011?
  • jbaustianjbaustian Member Posts: 78
    Good question. Probably nothing major, possibly something that was an option is now standard equipment, or maybe vice-versa but that typically doesn't happen.

    But I remember when the Mk5 Jetta came out, halfway through the 2005 model year, and was designated as the 2005.5 Jetta. The TDI version had lots of extra features which were then made extra-cost options on the 2006 model. So there are some 2005.5's with a particular trim level that are highly sought-after, by those who pay attention to the minutiae.
This discussion has been closed.