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2010 Mitsubishi Outlander



  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    I read about the mud flap issue. I don't generally drive much on overly muddy or gravel roads so it may not matter to me. I don't think area was significantly redesigned, though, so extended flaps might be necessary for some. I'll take a wait-and-see stance for now.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Does your GT have that rubber (inserts) line on the car’s roof that runs parallel on both sides? The side rail roof rack on the XLS has these rubber lines and it is there where the side rails are fitted. Reading the Maintenance CD (Removal and Installation of the Side Rail Roof) in the Outlander the rubber gives way (equidistant little spaces) where bolts can be screwed and therefore the side rail roof can be fit on it.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    The rubber trim piece is there as it is on a lot of cars nowadays. I'll have to look for bolt holes. I have a hard time believing Mitsu would engineer a different roof panel just for the GT, but perhaps they have other reasons for disallowing a roof rack.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    Very nice on days like today (it was 2 above this morning).

    That's about what it was here and I had mine on this morning when running errands. I wish my office chair had 'em. :-)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    All the Australian 2010 Outlander comes with side rails roof rack + the sportier steering wheel (EVO Evolution). The Mazda CX-90 which is similar to the GT, with exception of the engine power and better third row of seats, it offers as an option “side rail roof rack” for the top of the range. Perhaps the Australian dollar is much better than our dollar or MMNA is taking us for a ride.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    Perhaps it was a styling cue Mitsu wanted to use to differentiate the GT from less expensive trims. Cheaper to delete something than add an effects kit or moldings.

    Maybe the Aussies are more demanding about on-roof storage.

    I like the steering wheel as it is. Nicely leather-wrapped; it's a good size and comfortable to grip.

    Given our economy, it could well be that the Aussie dollar is doing better than ours. :sick:
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    What's on your list today?

    "Now through February 1st, 2010, members of Sam's Club are eligible for 0% financing, for up to 60 months, on the 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Lancer and Outlander and the 2010 Endeavor and Galant. This offer is in lieu of any cash offer that may be available.

    There are also special lease rates on the 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander."

    Deal of the Week: Mitsubishi and Sam's Club 0% Financing Offer (Edmunds Daily)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,602
    If I wanted a Mitz product, I would look for an ex rental or one a couple of years old.

    People don't seem to know what they are, at least around here and as used cars, they can be a lot of car for the money because of steep depreciation.
  • You should be able to order roof rack from a dealer. The Mitsu USA site does not list all accessories which could be ordered. When I bought my Outlander 3 year ago, my dealer said that backup camera, parking sensors, OEM wood trim,byke rack are available to order, though at that time these were not listed on site.

    This is sample a Japanese catalog, but dealer should have less colorful one in English. This one should give us the idea. There is a picture of roof rack wich do not require roof rails. This is old 2009 catalog.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I have seen the Japanese catalogue and indeed I examined the cross roof rack for the Outlander without the two side rail roof rack. What worry me is that the 2010 Outlander GT may not have holes on the rubber lines where usually the side rail roof rack seat in the XLS. If there is not holes beneath of the rubber lines on the roof the 4-small towers of the Japanese accessory cannot be bolted and then the whole approach will fail.

    This reasoning is also valid if two side rail roof racks are ordered from a dealer. The left and the right side rail roof rack installation will require at least 12 bolts, according to a quotation of a dealer. If the 2010 Outlander GT doesn’t have the holes beneath the rubber lines then the whole process fail.

    Yakima and Thule provide equipment for two types of naked roof. One is called “raingutters” (where clamps grab raingutters) and the other is called “Q towers” (where clips clip into the door frame and the tower rest on the roof). These two approaches don’t use bolts and don’t need holes on the roof.
  • I just found out from multiple dealers here in the US, that although Mitsubishi’s website lets you build a 2010 Outlander GT in blue, white or brown with Beige interior, Japan does not make them. Nationwide, there are only GTs with black interior. And the XLS does not come with a sunroof, so if you want a 6 cyl. with sunroof now, you’re stuck with a black interior. Unless of course, they make them later in the year like they did the 2007 Red Outlanders.

    My lease is up in October (July if I wanted another mitsu) but I may have to consider some other manufacturer. A beige interior is available for lesser models, but not the top of the line? Does that make sense? You would think top of the line means a pick of all the available options. I mean, it’s not like they are custom making a new interior, just installing one that is currently available on the XLS or SE. What could the costs be? They could even charge a premium for the color like a few other manufacturers do, but no. Wow, I think Mitsubishi has really outdone themselves this year to screw this up.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    Have you talked to a dealer about ordering one with the beige interior? You have enough lead time that the unit could be built & shipped in advance of your lease expiration.

    I bought a '10 GT last month and so far have very few nits to pick. The black interior was not my first choice either, coming from a Galant with a beige interior. But I'm hoping the tinted windows are adequate to keep the seats from hating up too much in summer. If not, well, mine is garage-kept at home & I can get partial shade at work so it won't heat up all the time.

    The other thought is that perhaps sales experience favors black interiors much like it favors automatics over manuals. I don't know.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • Wow, good luck with your new GT and I hope you're right. I'm sending off a letter to MMNA to see if that district sales manager was wrong and that a beige interior GT can be had. Man, and I was really getting excited. But that new brown color with a ??black?? interior instead of beige reminds me more of something else instead of chocolate cream mousse. I'm going for the blue myself. What's your, black or white?

    How's the new GT? I was told, not that I believe it, that they added more sound deadening. Is it quieter than the previous years and do the doors sound less tinny when you slam them? (I kick the tires too, by the way). Less torque steer around slippery corners??
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    Mine is red; I put a profile pic on my CarSpace page.

    I had only test-driven the '09 once back in July so I can't say for sure if it's quieter. But it's quiet to me. The 6 cyl is really smooth and there's very little wind noise. A little road noise now and again but nothing obtrusive. I don't think the doors sound tinny at all. There's a little noise freom the cargo area; I think it's the 3rd row seats not fully down, but I haven't bothered yet to isolate it.

    I bough on December 5 and have already made use of the AWD (Chicago area snow storms), expanded cargo capacity (hauling lots of xmas presents & luggage to the airport), and increased seating (6 adults). With 1100 miles I'm getting about 20MPG overall on winter blend gas so fuel economy is about where I'd expect it to be, especially since I'm leaving the climate control on full auto and that runs the AC for defogging.

    You might just want to call Mitsu @ 1-888-MITSU2010. It should net you a faster response than writing a letter.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • Thanks. I made the call and they have a case opened for my question. Should find out in a day or so.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I bought my 2010 Outlander GT the 14th of December. At the moment it has 3,500 miles. I traveled to Glen Canyon (Utah) where I had to cope with temperatures of -12 degree centigrade. It was so cold that I decided to head to Los Angeles to enjoy warmer weather. To my misfortune LA was flooded with torrential rains and snows and highways closed. My GPS direct me to the East of LA in order to reach the north of California and avoid the closed roads. I found myself in the middle of mountains with heavy rain first and after torrential snow, with boulders on the roads and some tarmac washed away by dirty water. I drove through these roads for more than 60 miles until reaching the highway, which was still covered in snow, that eventually brought me to San Francisco.

    I did use the “snow” mode and together with my Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S tires the driven was more than impressive. Some parts of the road had more than 2’ of snow and the car never skidded or behaved unpredictably. The entire event was a rewarding experience indeed. The heated seats were great. The automatic screen wiper was great, and the xenon lights were great.

    A couple of times I heard some short strange noises when the vehicle was brought to still when braking unexpectedly when in “snow” mode (automatic). It appears that the action of braking was faster than the automatic to down grade the gears to cope with the action of braking.

    Although the stalk switch (steering lighting) has a scribble/icon to indicate that the facility of headlight (low beam) exist in the vehicle the dashboard doesn’t show any illuminated icon to show that the headlight (low beam) is indeed ON. The low beam is only obvious when the xenon light illuminates the road. The dashboard only show when activated the following 3-icons are visible: High beam indicator (blue), front fog light, and position indicator. The stalk switch has 4-icons scribbled on it.

    I am also getting 20 miles per gallon. Road noises are similar to those reached in the Outlander XLS. The Outlander is perhaps above average road noise. However, when the engine is warm and still the engine noise hardly can be heard. I haven’t noticed any vibration.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    On the dash there should be a green icon with something in the middle and three whiskers/lightwaves on either side to indicate the lo-beams are on. I put my headlights on Auto and have left them there the entire time. The DRLs switch to lo-beams when I drive into my garage. :)

    Sounds like you picked a less-than-stellar time to travel but at least you got to test the Outlander's capabilities.

    I've also found snow mode to be very handy so far.

    With a couple of bass-heavy songs I've had the stereo up to 42; any more and I'm not sure my ears could take it.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    My 2010 Outlander GT (3,500 miles) started to show more frequently some kind of bumpy automatic change of gear (Tarmac mode) especially at low speed (usually when the vehicle starts moving). When the car is moving from steady speed to higher speed sometimes the change of gear can be felt as a noticeable step. On many other occasions I am unable to feel these patchy or bumpy automatic speed controls but when these happen it can be felt and heard. I wonder if other 2010 Outlander GT owners have experienced a similar situation.

    I remember with my previous 2008 Outlander XLS with more than 10,000 miles the vehicle had a similar infrequent and not synchronized automatic behavior (which I thought was normal). In spite of the fact that the accelerator was pressed down the automatic didn’t change the gear up and it took a relatively long time to change until a technician from a Mitsubishi garage in New York identified it and said that he needed to load some of the latest software (or patch) into the vehicle computer so it could regain normality (i.e. smooth automatic) which he did. The problem was solved.

    I think I have also got a slight warp tire noise at slow speed. I have had the tires rebalanced and rotated with the intention that the warp noises may eventually go. No success. I wonder if the new Yokohama tires start to develop this phenomenon. I don’t think -when I tested the brand new vehicle with the Good Year stock tires- I felt this slightly distorted (up/down) noise.

    Comments appreciate it.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    Well, I can notice the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts but pretty much all shifting after that is so smooth I can't tell what gear it's in without going to manual mode. I will keep an eye on it, though.

    My '99 Galant, which I replaced with the '10 GT, had the occasional 1-2 shift flare but it never developed into a daily problem or led to a major issue. That car had a couple of recalls but IIRC none were powertrain-related.

    If the tire balancing doesn't work, you can consider rotating the tires to see if the problem sound follows it. If it does then you've a bad tire. If not, there could be a suspension piece that's gotten bent (perhaps from hitting a bad pothole).

    The only technical issue I've got so far is the headlights .. not really a problem for me but the default setting of 0 on the load leveler has them very close to intruding on the interior of cars in front of me. I'm debating making 1 my normal setting to be polite to others.

    I'm in the Chicago suburbs so I've been using a mix of Tarmac & Snow modes. Snow proved it's worth in my first week of ownership.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    That sounds like typical "drive-by-wire" sensation. You may notice it more easily with sudden acceleration or on a cold engine. I think this is common for all new vehicles with this feature. It sometimes feels like small turbo lag. I have my (07 XLS) computer "flashed" too, it fills better now, but only marginally. In normal driving, I don't feel any gear changes, and the re-programming was to fix slow acceleration from second gear (after making a turn for example). Original programming was geared more toward fuel economy, than spirited driving.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    On the stock alloy wheels that come with the vehicle Outlander 2010, the transversal surface (the edges which are utilized to attach the wheel weights) is practically flat which allows attaching wheel weight circumferentially or transversely.

    I ordered through my local Mitsubishi an extra alloy wheel Part# 4250B368 for my Outlander GT and to my very disappointment the wheel although it looks the same as the Japanese original the transverse surface has circumferential grooves. These circumferential cross sections of the wheel (where wheel weight are attached) don’t allow attaching wheel weight transversally because the area is not flat. The dealer explained that after querying to MMNA he was told that few parts are manufactured for the Japanese market only, e.g. wheels, oil filter, jacks, etc. The final result of this is that the 5th alloy wheel doesn’t have flat transversal surface (where wheal weights are attached) and indeed it is not equal to its other 4-siblings. Some of my friend has criticized for buying a alloy wheel (extra) but I have my personal reasons.

    The curious thing of the whole occasion was that the technician that put the Yokohama tire on this wheel attached 16 wheel weights of ¼ ounces each circumferentially (15-pieces in one edge and 1 piece in the other edge). This was weird. This was the first time in my life I saw so many wheel weights in only one wheel. The dealer charged me $25 per each wheel tire assembly.

    Talking with other tire specialists they told me that the number of wheel weights can be reduce significantly if the tire/rubber is rotate in relation to the wheel that sustains it. So this is what I am going to do next.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    GT off-road video. Cross-posted from Mitsu's FaceBook page.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    But where's the off-roading? :confuse:
    (It's an interesting introduction, but is there a followup where they actually try to get stuck?) Gotta be a part 2 that's coming. I understand that it 's probably difficult to show the new S-AWC is better while not making the older system look bad, but I'll be curious to see what they demo comparing the 2.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    Yeah, that's the gist of the comment I left for Mitsu on Facebook. OK video but it needed to actually show more off-roading, sand-slinging, crawling over a few rocks, etc.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Oscillating tire noise

    I have inflated the 4-tires (Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S) to 37 psi from 32 psi (recommended by the manufacturer) and to my happy surprise the fluctuating tire noise simply has gone.

    The ride now is pleasant. I thought that increasing the tire pressure the ride would become a bit harsh and I will be able to feel all the imperfection of the road but this didn’t occur.

    The solution has worked for me but it may depend on the make and manufacture of the tire.
  • Hi Same problem here. The shift is noisy when cold but does seem to go away when warm. I took it to dealer for another problem. Bad injector turned out to be bad wiring harness. Had it replaced and shifting seems to have improved. Not sure if it is the fix or a fluke.

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    My Outlander GT has 5,500 miles at the moment and I have been driving 100% only on Tarmac and I haven’t adventure to drive on any other road that this.

    After washing my car a few weeks ago I felt nauseous when I saw 100 to 200 little paint chips (spots) caused by a combination of little stones flying from the front tires to the rear of the car and the little stones flying in opposite direction from the rear tires. The result was paint chips precisely located at the bottom of both rear doors and back panels (next message will follow with photo).

    My previous 2008 Outlander XLS came with some transparent protection film exactly located in the same place where my GT got the paint chips. Mitsubishi engineers got it wrong again by thinking that a wider mud guard in the front tires and extra chrome extension than runs just under the doors (front and rear) will prevent paint chips on the car. Yes it prevented paint chips at the bottom of the front doors but unfortunately they didn’t put on the protective transparent plastic film on the bottom of the rear doors close to the rear wheel arches.

    I wonder if I can put a claim (warranty) for re-painting both areas. Reading previous forum members complaints it appears some dealers were willing to repaint it and others refused to do it. Will some members comment on this? I was told that the District manager or Mitsubishi District (Zone or Area) manager usually visits dealerships only one time per month and that I have to wait 20-days because the manager was in this particular dealership one week ago for his monthly visit! I have also been told that a reputable body shop will commonly charge $3000 to $4000 for a re-paint to eliminate the hundreds of little pain chips in both rear doors at the bottom side of the vehicle.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606

    I have collapsed the second-row of seats in order to have a temporary extra cargo space. To my disquiet, after the car started to move, the effect of having the rear seats collapsed produced an indescribable number of rattles (at least 3 different sources of noises) from only the event of collapsing the seats. The noises stopped after the seats were put back in their normal and usual seating position.

    Will some members of this forum do a similar experiment of collapsing the seats and report in this forum a similar experience if any?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The dealer order a new back driver cover seat when he saw that 3 stitches (sutures) have become loose from the driver seat cover. The parts department ordered the leather cover by using the VIN# of my car. To the disappointments of the service people the cover was a very dark black that doesn’t match the original color of my imported Japanese car which I believe is a charcoal color (not a deep black). So the technician didn’t do the replacement. The parts department has insisted that in the USA there are only 2-colors being sold: beige and black. This is scary because I did have a very disappointing experience when I ordered a new alloy wheel. The alloy wheel for the 2010 Outlander is made in the USA and its inside design differs from the Japanese wheel siblings.

    It appears that a numbers of parts for the Outlander sold in the USA don’t match those of the Japanese market (site where the cars are manufactured) and MMNA doesn’t bring those parts because MMNA thinks that those parts can be covered with products locally made in the USA by USA companies or subsidiaries. The results are, for example, leather color mismatch, inside wheel design mismatch, oil filter mismatch, jack mismatch, etc.

    I have asked the dealer to take the original seat cover to a reputable upholster to re-stitch it and put it back on my car.

    Furthermore, the bezel leather combination meter one edge protrudes out because the fastener clip will not clip properly as there is too much leather at this edge. The technician cannot put it right (the end finish doesn’t look right). It appears when the car was in Japan the driver right air vent edges and the leather bezel combination meter edges don’t fit evenly producing an ugly look that I wasn’t aware when I bought the car. The Dealer has asked for a new bezel combination meter cover. However I am afraid that the USA color may not match the original (charcoal) color of my car.
  • Ah so looks like my investment in clear bra protection in that area will be well worth it. I feel your pain, batman. When I went a trip to the slopes and went back home, I noticed that those rear quarter panels got quite dirty. It is an area that I didn't think would take a beating because of the way the car is shaped. Good thing I don't have a degree in aerodynamics. HA.

    Thankfully no rocks chipped that area, but I went to my local clear film specialist. He added some nice rear quarter panel protection there. BTW, I do not have mud guards.
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