Yes, I've noticed that when I do remember to fill it, seems that I can pour about 5 times as much in as I remember using. Darn thing holds something like 1.5 gal. too!
(anyone else think the resevoir was manufactured in the bermuda triangle?)
The Kona wheels have six spokes, not five as previously mentioned. They look great in person, kind of like the wheels on the new beetle. The Kona is available in 3 colors, CD Silver, Dirt Metallic, and I believe RF Green. The Dirt Metallic is a beautiful deep color and is only available on the Kona edition ZX3.
In 1976 I was 1 year old
Maybe the washer fluid reservoir is open to the environment somewhere along the tubing or maybe even at the end. Could evaporation account for the mysterious fluid loss?
I've wondered about evaporation as well - I can't imagine where its going, since a leak would be pretty easy to spot thanks to the blue dye added to the fluid... and so far I can't find a leak anywhere. I'm sure the reservoir supplies the rear washer as well, so there's obviously a fair amount of tubing in the system. A puzzler.
First report: the EBC Green Stuff brake pads are great. Pedal feel and stopping power is as good or better than the stock brakes (which felt good to me), they are quiet, and they aren't producing any dust to speak of! Clean wheels! Yay! Well worth the time and $ in my opinion.
I have ramps and find them to be a major hassle. They work on my car but I find it to be much easier and faster to do it from under the hood like I did. Its much quicker and easier. You dont get hurt if you do it like that anyways. It only tokk me 10 minutes to change my oil, and will take less now that I know how to access the filter from up top. Ranps might be nice for me if I had a level driveway or street, but it is so bumpy that it requires alot of shims to get the ramps sturdy Thanks for the advice though. On the subject of oil changes, I ALWAYS change it at 3k, but they recommend 5k. it doesnt seem right to do it at 5k. I am also surpised to find out that Honda says there "is no break in" on their cars. I find that very hard to believe...
I called around the Seattle area quite a bit until I found a dealer who was friendly and wasn't BS-ing me. The first guy I called (Prestige Ford in Bellevue--DON'T anybody go there) was an absolute slimeball, and the dealership was classic "pass you to the manager and screw you" type of place. I got the whole "I can sell thee to anybody" routine, so I said, "Go ahead, you won't be selling one to me." They had a $2000 dealer markup.
Finally I found a friendly dealership (Harris Ford in Lynnwood for you Puget Sound folks) who sold me my car for $300 over invoice. He actually had a car for me, but it had 300 miles from the owners daughter and he suggested I NOT buy it. I decided to factory order, and he was very up front with me on wait time.
The moral: There are lots of sleazy dealers out there. Just walk away. There's a good one down the road somewhere.
Focuszx3r, good point about the sloping driveway and ramps problem. It is a real no-no to jack a car or elevate it on ramps if you don't have a reasonably level work area. Never take a risk that might result in damage to you or the car. Living in Houston, I forget about things like hills - it couldn't be much flatter here.
You gave me warning to heed. Don't go over 7500 RPM for the first 100 miles?
I guess I don't understand, as explained before because of delivery the car had over 100 milkes on it when I got it last saturday and will have about 1000 on it by this saturday. PLUS, I've already said I don't go over 3500 RPM
On your alignment situation-keep in mind that many roads are crowned to allow for water runoff. It's fairly normal for a properly aligned car to gradually start pulling to the right because of the crowning. A hard pull would indicate misalignment, a pull only on braking would be a whole 'nuther matter. BTW, sounds to me like your break-in practice is fine.
I believe Mr ZX3 was pulling your leg, when recommending not to go over 75,000 rpm. (I do not think Zx-3 said 7500).
Please let us know your dealer experience. All of your concerns are legitimate and they should be easily diagnosed and fixed for you.
I am sure they will fix the brakes. The other person had a point regarding road design and how your car should slightly drift to the right due to crowning.
If you keep driving the way you do, you will have 52,000 miles on your z in a year!!!
I hope you have a good experience when you bring your z to be fixed!
I believe if you go back to your first post on break-i, you accidentally typed that you shouldn't go over 35000 RPM. The rest of us poked a little fun, that's all... Nothing to get or not get, just a harmless joke =]
I've noticed that if I don't have my clutch depressed completely (and I mean slammed to the floor) I can feel it spinning. If I really push it all the way down, I can't feel it. Do you all think that this is the result of it being a very new clutch, or might I be wise to adjust it up a hair? I've never noticed this in my other cars, and my clutches tend to last a long time, so it's not bad habits. I treat it very well.
Anyway, whadya think? Has anybody else noticed it. I don't mind adjusting it, but I like where it engages right now, so I don't wanna if I don't hafta...
Guess, I didn't see my typo. I called the dealer to schedule the oil change for Saturday (the only day I can get it in 'cause of work) which shouldnt take to long... so I am not worried about that.
I am worried the brakes and possibly the alignment will take a few days or something. I was told when I bought the car a loaner would be available as long as I scheduled a day in advance. Well guess what, the girlie who schedules appoitments not only said my car didn't need to have an oil change til 3,000 miles ( I KNOW that --but its a new car/break in...awhforgetaboutit) and surprise surprise. 2 weeks to get a loaner.
I really shouldn't be surprised. years ago, I scheduled appts. did reception for a service dept. It was a mess.
So, what I need to know, has anyone had any brake problems? If so, should I be worried about waiting forever for brake parts?
With the clutch pedal partially depressed, it is normal to feel some slight vibration from the spinning throw out bearing. ZX3s have hydraulically actuated clutches, so there is no adjustment per se. You could monkey with the pedal cluster pivots, but you wouldn't accomplish anything positive in the way of a clutch "adjustment". As you know, depressing the clutch pedal causes an actuating arm to push the throw out bearing into contact with the clutch cover's diaphragm spring arms. since the clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel of the engine, a sensitive foot might pick up on these rotational vibrations as well. Sounds like what you're noticing is normal mechanical feedback from the clutch mechanism.
I thought it wasn't much...it just struck me as odd that I had to depress it so hard to get no vibration. Don't wanna be wearing my clutch for no reason.
fgaydos-you just hit on it- pale yellow.that best describes the zinc yellow.i thought the zinc yellow had a pale orange cast in the yellow.does the pottery have an earth tone or terra cotta base to it?fgaydos,what color is your z? drebe,i forgot to tell you ,last week i saw that commercial,it was really cool. audiolizard-wish i could say the same.youth rules! also,the kona wheels remind me of vw bugs wheel as well.i have not seen the dirt metallic in person, but it looks very fine in the ads. washer fluid unsolved mystery? it has been reported that a nationwide hunt is on for a band of honda owners who have been allegely siphoning washer fluid from zx3's. an unidentified source claims the honda owners are upset about z owners leaving them in the dust.
re:zx3 -are they male or female?mine is definitely female.because if it wasnt,you wouldnt catch me riding in one.jw-you just couldnt resist asking that now,could you?
I had ramps years ago and they slid when I attempted to drive up on them. I'm sure the Rhinos are better, but...... Reading all your informative posts about the benefits/problems -- has given me pause. My driveway slopes in spots, can be hazardous, my Mobil-1 will only changed 1 or 2 times per year -- I'll let a pro do it. Thanks again to All, for the info. zx3
zx3- i know what you mean about ramps.lost a friend working under car.have never attempted to go under since then.freak accidents of course,can happen anytime.you just never know when unfortunately.its always the law of averages at play.
Not much to report on here. I heard that my local dealer has to deliver 500 foci before the end of August, 80% of them turbo-diesel wagons.
The pulling to the right that you are complaining about, zgrrl, has been quite a problem for foci owners over here and Ford distributed a solution to the problem to all its mechanics. Good luck getting it fixed.
On the zinc question, zinc in its natural state is white. "Zinc Yellow" is an additive added to paint to improve its corrosion resistant properties. "Zinc Oxide" on the other hand is a white pigment.
I'll start by saying I'm paranoid about rust. Living in upstate NY, the land of salt, cars dissolve frighteningly fast. My current 93 Escort is still in pretty decent shape with the exception of the rust.
That said, back around 1989 or so my sister bought a Honda Accord (I think it was an Accord - they all look alike to me) and spent quite a bit on an after market, dealer installed, electronic anti-rust thingy. We all made a lot of fun of her for it. "That thing won't work." "You're wasting your money."
Recently she just replaced the old Honda and passed the old car, with some 200,000 miles on it, to my dad. With the exception of the plastic on the dash drying out and cracking, the car looks nearly like new! So much for knowing it all.
It seems that the company that supplied the original device has gone bellyup, and I don't know if there are any other reputable makers outthere today.
Anyone have any comments on this? I'd love to keep my new ZX3 looking good for 10 years.
Beast..... Yeah, I don't think I'll crawl under cars anymore. Too much to lose. If I still had the "drive-over" pit (I could stand up in it, it was great for every kind of car work, and 100% safe) I wouldn't hesitate.
Here's a horror story. (This poor guy was asking for it)..... In my area a guy was under the car in his driveway, car was jacked up with a bumper jack (of all fool things!). It gave way, car came down on his head. zx3
torinopaddy- what exactly is the problem ? what was the solution ? i believe you made mention of it way back.is it the same problem? major or minor adjustment needed.? thanks!
JW: I know how you feel, and agree wholeheartedly.
Chevrolet Cavalier is a $12K car with "all body panels, Zinc rust-proof coated, both sides". It's right on Mfr's sticker on window. That's awesome. (Otherwise, it's an "under-performer" with mediocre handling n'power).
I one-time saw a statement (in a car website) that said our z also has zinc-dipped body-panels. If true, THAT would be Grrrreat!!! I never again saw the statement anywhere. Has anyone else read/heard that? zx3
Zinc yellow is a very common name in oil paints, but the zx-2 version (not a typo ...zx-2) of zinc yellow is not true zinc yellow. I am still waiting to see a zinc yellow zx-3. Is it the same color as zx-2?
Most cars body panels are galvanized. The zx-3 is no exception.
Galvanization is a process where oxide free iron (rust-free) body panels is dipped in molten zinc to form a thin coating of zinc that is metallurgically bonded to the iron. Afterwards, the body panels are painted.
So when you dip a steel panel in molten zinc, you can't help but coat each side with zinc. So GM's statement is redundant and more of a marketing ploy. In fact, coating one side would be a lot harder.
Zinc seems to be a hot topic tonight. Maybe the z in zx-3 is not for zetec, but for zinc. At least we have all learned more about zinc (a very nice element!).
Still, I am talking about Zinc Yellow. I really want to see that color.
ND
PS: I still love my rainforest green (Pacific Green in Europe) color.
PSS: Who would dream of buying a Forester that is not Forest Green. That color rules for the Subie!!
norway is right.it is definitely a marketing ploy by gm. its been many years,er decades since ive seen rusty cars from any mfg.at one time it was commonplace to see rusty cars on the road.you would have to completely neglect todays finishes to produce rust. this is one area where the auto industry has really improved their product.there are no exposed bumpers or chrome left on most cars. fgaydos- could i have passed you last week on county line road.silver zx3 heading towards 202?
It never occurs free in nature, but is found as zinc oxide, ZnO, in the mineral zincite; as zinc silicate, 2ZnO·SiO2H2O, in the mineral hemimorphite; as zinc carbonate, ZnCO3, in the mineral smithsonite; as a mixed oxide of zinc and iron, Zn(FeO2)O2, in the mineral franklinite; and as zinc sulfide, ZnS, in the mineral sphalerite, or zinc blende. The ores most commonly used as a source of zinc are smithsonite and sphalerite.
I work with Zinc Carbonate and that might explain the color as blue zinc is never found in nature.
A great plate for the yellow ZX3 would be "ZN ZX3" I hope everyone "gets this" since we have all just had a lesson. I just ordered "AG ZX3" wanna make a guess?
When you get to the page, click on Top Sites, then click on Ford and Jaguar Spy Shots. Go into the Gallery and there are a few pictures of Focus 4X4, Cosworth, and a really nice Focus Cabriolet.
< I am still waiting to see a zinc yellow zx-3. < Is it the same color as zx-2?
The Ford paint code is B7 for Zinc Yellow on all cars as far as I know. I definitely saw B7 on the dealers paint sample for the Zinc Yellow Mustang, it was B7 for the ZX3, and I think the window sticker for the ZX-2 (the dash is for the lack of a usable back seat I guess) said B7.
As for cars not rusting today, you must not live in in these parts. Most Hondas the age of my sisters old car bearly cast a shadow. I was passed by a white Geo Storm (probably shouldn't count) this morning and the lower side of the car was pretty much missing, while the top of the car and the plastic bumpers looked like new. Ford Aerostar vans are all rusting away. It's sad to see an otherwise newish looking car with big rusty holes in it, but that's very common.
So the question remains, anyone familiar with the electronic rust inhibitors?
Comments
Yes, I've noticed that when I do remember to fill it, seems that I can pour about 5 times as much in as I remember using. Darn thing holds something like 1.5 gal. too!
(anyone else think the resevoir was manufactured in the bermuda triangle?)
Gabe
In 1976 I was 1 year old
Maybe the washer fluid reservoir is open to the environment somewhere along the tubing or maybe even at the end. Could evaporation account for the mysterious fluid loss?
teamzx3yellow - I'm "expecting" my zinker around the same time ... ordered May 12th. Our cars might be brothers - Or would it be sisters?
Are ZX3s male or female?
If the yellow turns out to be the color that was used on the ZX3's in the cereal commercial you all should be happy.
First report: the EBC Green Stuff brake pads are great. Pedal feel and stopping power is as good or better than the stock brakes (which felt good to me), they are quiet, and they aren't producing any dust to speak of! Clean wheels! Yay! Well worth the time and $ in my opinion.
It only tokk me 10 minutes to change my oil, and will take less now that I know how to access the filter from up top.
Ranps might be nice for me if I had a level driveway or street, but it is so bumpy that it requires alot of shims to get the ramps sturdy
Thanks for the advice though.
On the subject of oil changes, I ALWAYS change it at 3k, but they recommend 5k. it doesnt seem right to do it at 5k. I am also surpised to find out that Honda says there "is no break in" on their cars. I find that very hard to believe...
Finally I found a friendly dealership (Harris Ford in Lynnwood for you Puget Sound folks) who sold me my car for $300 over invoice. He actually had a car for me, but it had 300 miles from the owners daughter and he suggested I NOT buy it. I decided to factory order, and he was very up front with me on wait time.
The moral: There are lots of sleazy dealers out there. Just walk away. There's a good one down the road somewhere.
You gave me warning to heed. Don't go over 7500 RPM for the first 100 miles?
I guess I don't understand, as explained before because of delivery the car had over 100 milkes on it when I got it last saturday and will have about 1000 on it by this saturday. PLUS, I've already said I don't go over 3500 RPM
Did you mean to say somethign else?
BTW, sounds to me like your break-in practice is fine.
Please let us know your dealer experience. All of your concerns are legitimate and they should be easily diagnosed and fixed for you.
I am sure they will fix the brakes. The other person had a point regarding road design and how your car should slightly drift to the right due to crowning.
If you keep driving the way you do, you will have 52,000 miles on your z in a year!!!
I hope you have a good experience when you bring your z to be fixed!
ND
Anyway, whadya think? Has anybody else noticed it. I don't mind adjusting it, but I like where it engages right now, so I don't wanna if I don't hafta...
http://mr2.com/FORMS/tire.html
I am worried the brakes and possibly the alignment will take a few days or something. I was told when I bought the car a loaner would be available as long as I scheduled a day in advance. Well guess what, the girlie who schedules appoitments not only said my car didn't need to have an oil change til 3,000 miles ( I KNOW that --but its a new car/break in...awhforgetaboutit) and surprise surprise. 2 weeks to get a loaner.
I really shouldn't be surprised. years ago, I scheduled appts. did reception for a service dept. It was a mess.
So, what I need to know, has anyone had any brake problems? If so, should I be worried about waiting forever for brake parts?
thanks guys
http://mr2.com/Tires.html
At the bottom of this page there is a set of links to tire size calculators. Good luck.
describes the zinc yellow.i thought the zinc yellow had a pale orange cast in the yellow.does the pottery have an earth tone or terra cotta base to it?fgaydos,what color is your z?
drebe,i forgot to tell you ,last week i saw that commercial,it was really cool.
audiolizard-wish i could say the same.youth rules!
also,the kona wheels remind me of vw bugs wheel as well.i have not seen the dirt metallic in person,
but it looks very fine in the ads.
washer fluid unsolved mystery?
it has been reported that a nationwide hunt is on
for a band of honda owners who have been allegely siphoning washer fluid from zx3's. an unidentified
source claims the honda owners are upset about z
owners leaving them in the dust.
female.because if it wasnt,you wouldnt catch me
riding in one.jw-you just couldnt resist asking that now,could you?
Reading all your informative posts about the benefits/problems -- has given me pause.
My driveway slopes in spots, can be hazardous, my Mobil-1 will only changed 1 or 2 times per year -- I'll let a pro do it.
Thanks again to All, for the info.
zx3
PS... They're right Zgirrl, we were just kidding.
since then.freak accidents of course,can happen
anytime.you just never know when unfortunately.its
always the law of averages at play.
The pulling to the right that you are complaining about, zgrrl, has been quite a problem for foci owners over here and Ford distributed a solution to the problem to all its mechanics. Good luck getting it fixed.
On the zinc question, zinc in its natural state is white. "Zinc Yellow" is an additive added to paint to improve its corrosion resistant properties. "Zinc Oxide" on the other hand is a white pigment.
As I said, not much news!
That said, back around 1989 or so my sister bought a Honda Accord (I think it was an Accord - they all look alike to me) and spent quite a bit on an after market, dealer installed, electronic anti-rust thingy. We all made a lot of fun of her for it. "That thing won't work." "You're wasting your money."
Recently she just replaced the old Honda and passed the old car, with some 200,000 miles on it, to my dad. With the exception of the plastic on the dash drying out and cracking, the car looks nearly like new! So much for knowing it all.
It seems that the company that supplied the original device has gone bellyup, and I don't know if there are any other reputable makers outthere today.
Anyone have any comments on this? I'd love to keep my new ZX3 looking good for 10 years.
If I still had the "drive-over" pit (I could stand up in it, it was great for every kind of car work, and 100% safe) I wouldn't hesitate.
Here's a horror story. (This poor guy was asking for it).....
In my area a guy was under the car in his driveway, car was jacked up with a bumper jack (of all fool things!). It gave way, car came down on his head.
zx3
what was the solution ? i believe you made mention
of it way back.is it the same problem? major or
minor adjustment needed.? thanks!
Chevrolet Cavalier is a $12K car with "all body panels, Zinc rust-proof coated, both sides". It's right on Mfr's sticker on window. That's awesome. (Otherwise, it's an "under-performer" with mediocre handling n'power).
I one-time saw a statement (in a car website) that said our z also has zinc-dipped body-panels. If true, THAT would be Grrrreat!!!
I never again saw the statement anywhere.
Has anyone else read/heard that?
zx3
http://www.chemicalelements.com/elements/zn.html#basic
Zinc yellow is a very common name in oil paints, but the zx-2 version (not a typo ...zx-2) of zinc yellow is not true zinc yellow. I am still waiting to see a zinc yellow zx-3. Is it the same color as zx-2?
ND
Terracotta pottery is orange colored. I have a silver ZX3. Ordered map lights today, Holman Ford in NJ. 7 to 10 day wait for parts.
Galvanization is a process where oxide free iron (rust-free) body panels is dipped in molten zinc to form a thin coating of zinc that is metallurgically bonded to the iron. Afterwards, the body panels are painted.
So when you dip a steel panel in molten zinc, you can't help but coat each side with zinc. So GM's statement is redundant and more of a marketing ploy. In fact, coating one side would be a lot harder.
Zinc seems to be a hot topic tonight. Maybe the z in zx-3 is not for zetec, but for zinc. At least we have all learned more about zinc (a very nice element!).
Still, I am talking about Zinc Yellow. I really want to see that color.
ND
PS: I still love my rainforest green (Pacific Green in Europe) color.
PSS: Who would dream of buying a Forester that is not Forest Green. That color rules for the Subie!!
by gm. its been many years,er decades since ive
seen rusty cars from any mfg.at one time it was
commonplace to see rusty cars on the road.you would
have to completely neglect todays finishes to produce rust. this is one area where the auto industry has really improved their product.there
are no exposed bumpers or chrome left on most cars.
fgaydos- could i have passed you last week on
county line road.silver zx3 heading towards 202?
I work with Zinc Carbonate and that might explain the color as blue zinc is never found in nature.
http://www.ford.co.uk/fo2/fo2flat/index3dr.html
I hope everyone "gets this" since we have all just had a lesson. I just ordered "AG ZX3" wanna make a guess?
you surely remember
focus.
sorry... had a bit to drink tonight, would be fun though
kevin
ZN is the chemical symbol for the element ZINC
There will be a test tomorrow : )
http://fordsites.net/Ford_World/News/english.shtml
When you get to the page, click on Top Sites, then click on Ford and Jaguar Spy Shots. Go into the Gallery and there are a few pictures of Focus 4X4, Cosworth, and a really nice Focus Cabriolet.
cgsangel
< Is it the same color as zx-2?
The Ford paint code is B7 for Zinc Yellow on all cars as far as I know. I definitely saw B7 on the dealers paint sample for the Zinc Yellow Mustang, it was B7 for the ZX3, and I think the window sticker for the ZX-2 (the dash is for the lack of a usable back seat I guess) said B7.
As for cars not rusting today, you must not live in in these parts. Most Hondas the age of my sisters old car bearly cast a shadow. I was passed by a white Geo Storm (probably shouldn't count) this morning and the lower side of the car was pretty much missing, while the top of the car and the plastic bumpers looked like new. Ford Aerostar vans are all rusting away. It's sad to see an otherwise newish looking car with big rusty holes in it, but that's very common.
So the question remains, anyone familiar with the electronic rust inhibitors?