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Comments
How are the EBC green stuff pads doing?
My feeling is I'd rather buy my tires two at a time then four at a time. Ok, I admit it, I'm cheap!
When I replace the front tires, I have the new ones put in back, and the old, bearly worn rear tires moved to the front, so I do rotate them in some fashon. If I didn't do that, the rear tires would probably rot off before they finally wore out.
Tire pressures have a tremendous effect on ride quality, fuel economy, handling and braking - not to mention tire life! I don't have strong feelings about rotation, but keep in mind FWD cars like ours are hard on front tires - they are doing the steering, driving, and most of the braking. The rears just kind of follow along for the ride. Zgrrrl - anyone with a floor jack and a jack stand or two can rotate your tires... even you :-)
Now, that isn't to say that the car took of, 'cause it didn't. Fact is, there's no power (read torque) in this engine at 1800 RPM. The "hesitation" is really just lack of torque, I think.
My question: What on earth are you all doing trying to accellerate at 1800 RPM? Do you realize how much gas this uses?
Downshift for the love of Pete!
All I could think was, "Man, that's one car you wouldn't want to lower..."
Thank you, thank you...
I'll be here all week...
all right all right, we've been through this before (my favorite was zx3beast's headline "SB removes glass to clean" ) but regarding the DIY car care. Tire rotation is easy enough yes yes yes...I was just wondering though about warrenty paranoia. Should anything go wrong (what I don't know, yes I am a freak
I guess I wanted to know if I am laste with it or skip it or miss it will it harm the car in any way... I know its bad for the tires but just ---- making sure...
Ok, no one else can EVER feel bad for asking a dumb question.......
hesitation occurs in a much wider range.
It is the most noticeable at 2000-2500 rpm on a slight uphill.
And no. I don't have to accelerate in order to reproduce it. Just a steady cruising in the 2nd or 3d gear or a very light acceleration.
And It's noticeable at the high rpms too.(not as often as at the lower ones).
How about full (yes fully open) throttle from 3k all the way to 6k rpm.
It feels like the computer retards timing time to time for a slight second for a no particular reason.
Carl, You are correct, except that it is not nearby. I live on the reservation. Salamanca, NY is located almost entirely on the Allegany Indian Reservation, Seneca Nation of Indians. Surrounded by the State of New York. We "Non-Native Americans" lease the land (with permission of the U.S. Congress) from the Seneca Nation, but we also pay city, county, and New York State taxes on real estate and purchases from non-indian owned stores. No break except on gas and cigarettes and other purchases from Seneca Indian owned stores. They are tax exempt on anything they purchase in NYS, if they are registered members of the tribe. It's a very long story with a lot of history, both good and bad.
Love my ZX3. It's the only one on the Rez.
Pat
can't we say something like..."respectfully apathetic"....
zx3beast - Nice to hear from a fellow cheap skate. Actually, I'm not sure if it's really cheaper in the long term, but in the short term it's a lot easier on the wallet.
The only down side is in the winter. I like to have good tread up front then. I live on a nice hill, and driving home in a snow storm can be a challange.
I am convinced that I have a problem with my engine of my zx-3! I am very surprised since the zetec is not a new design.
The tapping noise (or rattle) appears upon start up as of late. It seems to be getting worse which pleases me because it can be diagnosed easily. It goes tap tap tap. Engaging the clutch stops the tapping sound, but then after releasing the clutch it reappears. Sometimes when I step on the accelerator the tapping frequency can be increased. When the engine is warmed up the tapping sound is more intermittent, but sometimes it is very noticeable. The idle is just noisier than before, maybe even a little rough. It just doesn't feel smooth....it has lost its song. I have checked the oil level and it is fine.
I also notice a raspy sound while just accelerating in first gear and then it clears up abruptly as the rpms build, it occurs in 2nd gear too, but last a much shorter time. It is a strange noise.
My poor car is going into the shop next Thursday. I will keep all apprised of the situation. I am disappointed, but I won't try to speculate and condemn Ford. If it is a real problem and Ford fixes it courteously, I will be quite happy. From what I notice on these postings is that people are not experiencing this kind of problem. I still get 26-30 mpg.
Other comments:
I rotate my tires every 12,000 miles or so. I take it to the dealer or neighborhood shop to have it done.
The car is cooled down now. I think I'll just start it up and tell you all what I hear. I'll post my answer in a minute or 2
Stand By,
ND
I opened the hood and the noise appears to be coming right from the engine. (below the spark plugs---right where the engine name is!) I just hope this sound can be reproduced when the techs are present. I wish I had a tape recorder.
I am disappointed, but this is what warranties are for, right?
ND
Any of you own the silver ZX3 I saw on campus at Lehigh? I didn't have the calicomobile with me at the time, so waving furiously would have made no sense whatsoever. How about the white ZX3 with Connecticut plates I saw when I was in my calicomobile at Musikfest in Bethlehem? (If you are on this site, hello again)
Just one "issue" with my little darling malibu blue: the windshield defroster. What is up with that? My defroster just doesn't seem to work very well. Granted, I am comparing it to my old Escort that apparently had the most efficient defrost in the world, but come on! Anyone else having this problem? What solution have you found?
Pat, I didn't realize you lived on Salamanca. I'm Seneca (and Italian, and....), and I get up there so rarely.
Take care, and it's good to be back!
Calico1
If you want to personalize your ZX3 a little bit, I found the staff at my local NTB to be pretty good. No I don't work for them nor own any stock.
I went to the Ford Dealership and since I have a good relationship with my salesman, he got me a copy of the Focus/Mustang/ZX2 m.y. 2001 booklet. It is kinda cheesy but not too bad. Not much in the way of performance options, but doesn't really need them either. I also spoke with some Service Manager Dude and he said no word on past or future Focus recalls for brakes or gas mileage. Make of that what you will.
Jimmy
It looks like Passat mixed with Focus, rear suspension will be like the one in Focus. Hopefully the price tag will be rather Fordish than Volkswagenish.
$17k-$21k would sound like a good deal.
Ford is making right selections as of late(exception of Firestone?)
I have found it extremely difficult to meet people here in small town Ohio! However, I think I have found a great solution to this. In the past 2 days since I have had my Zinc ZX3, I have had more people stop and talk to me than in the past 6 years! I love driving this car so much that I'm not getting anything else done!
Next week, I'm taking a trip and probably will go through Salamanca, I'll be looking for another zinc!
Anyway, It will be at 2001(or 2 depending) with the premium pack (want those wheels/tires!), power, auto, abs... maybe moonroof if they are any good when i see them. I absolutly dont care about MPG, just how well a car handles and feels, and we all know the focus handles better than any car under 20k (ive driven them all too).
Im tied up though on colors... I really like the Zinc/Egg yoke... but its too flashy, and im a DRIVER not a motorist, but have never gotten pulled over yet (probably cause im not driving anything flashy... and i drive the same speed they do hehe). Green is out, Im not a Red fan, the malibu blue is too corny for me, and the White doesnt work on this car for some reason... So im thinking either black, twilight blue, or silver... right now Tw blue is on top of my mind.
Quick Questions:
Do H+R springs void the warranty, even if the dealer installs them (if they can)?
Does painting the plastic parts on the car void the warranty?
If not, then I was thinking of taking the plastic side striping and plastic peice above the rear license plate and painting them the zinc yellow, and painting the bottom edging twilight blue to match. What about painting the blue in the ford embulems on the front and back yellow? Maybe a yellow license plate frame in front to match... and dont forget the springs (can i get them in yellow?)
This way I can get the yellow, but not get to flashy. Plus Im an art+design major (concintration multimedia) and i know how good yellow accents blues, especially dark blues. What do you guys think, if you can picture it?
The painting and springs should stay under $500 wouldnt you say?
BTW, what about some ground effects to replace the plastic instead of paint... I like the Wings West front and back (good price too) but the side is iffy...
Just saw this though:
http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/
Click on the big "FOCUS" sign in the middle to see the focus RS body kit (replaces the bumpers and the side gfx are nice and simple, but ellegant)
Also the Deleware and Hudson painted their locomotives in a quite striking blue and yellow scheme, called the "Lightning Stripe" scheme. See a rather dark example here...
http://www.crisny.org/not-for-profit/railroad/train1a.jpg
Although it works well on big industrial type settings, I think it could be a bit much on the Focus unless it was done very carefully.
As the owner of a zinc yellow, I've been considering some sort of subtle, tasteful color accents. I was looking at red, but blue on yellow might work. I'm still trying to figure out what to do.
Have a good week-end all, drive safely!!!!
After all, the tires are all that is holding our cars off of the pavement.
Review:
1. Own an accurate tire pressure gauge
2. Check tire pressure every 1-2 weeks.
(be a good idea while you're doing this to inspect the sidewalls for gouges, splits, etc.)
Personally, I run my stock focus tires at 40 psi.
Ok, here is a question for all you focus lovers.. I am getting ready to tag my car and am soliciting ideas for what would be good as a custom license plate. It can have 7 letters... Please give me your best ideas, since I live in Oklahoma and most of you seem to be yankees (no offense or political intent) there shouldn't be someone who has the same thing in my state already.
Thanks all! : )
Drive safely and try not to speed. There are a lot of drivers out there.
Tag suggestion: NCC1701
ND
the reason it's so noticeable on the front is because they are disc brakes. the rears are drums, otherwise you'd notice the dust on them too. and it is perfectly normal. Just sort of an odd design. It is one one of the small things I don't like about the car.
you wrote:
"Engaging the clutch stops the
tapping sound, but then after releasing the clutch
it reappears."
Would you please clear it up for me.
I wonder about the nature of your noise.
In my case (could be a completely different problem) the noise goes away when I disengage the clutch(press down the clutch pedal). The sound reappears upon engaging(releasing the clutch pedal).
silver bullet,
If the source of the noise is the dry lifter, why it(noise) is affected by the clutch action?
Vadp - I can't explain the tapping sound diminishing with clutch action. Noisy lifters would not be affected by depressing and releasing the clutch pedal.
Engaged clutch: When your foot depresses the clutch pedal
Disengaged clutch: clutch pedal is untouched
I am very curious of why our terms are opposite. Who is right, I wonder? Geographical differences?
Therefore, the tapping noise occurs while I am not pressing on any pedal. When I press on the clutch pedal fully the noise disappears.
This leads me to think that the tapping noise is caused when there is a load on the engine. I do not think it is transmission related as you believe in your case.
I do think we have the same problem. I have a feeling it may have to do with a pulley that is tensed by hydraulicly by oil pressure of the engine. If the pulley is defective or oil pressure is low then this will affect the valve train. Pressing the clutch pedal down removes stress on the engine allowing the weak pulley to just be able to do its job and the noise disappears. Hey, I am no mechanic. That is my theory and it is just a guess. I will not present my theory to the mechanic.
It is very noticeable now. I can drive for 10 minutes and allow the car to idle and when the rpms reduce to 500-700 the tapping appears as well as a noisier idle. It used to be so quiet. A colleague heard my engine this morning and said, 'I don't know what's wrong with your engine, but something is....'
I am taking it in on Thursday and I will report their findings (if any)
ND
We have the exact same symptoms, so I assume the problems are matching too.
On my first visit to the dealer the noise hasn't been diagnosed.
I wish you luck. Because this noise spoiles my whole experience with the Z. We need to bring it to Ford's attention.
Believe it or not I developed some kind of a reflex. Being surrounded by cars or people while my engine running (red light or a parking lot) I keep pushing the clutch pedal, even if I don't need to, just to keep the idle noise away. It's very embarrasing to be seen in a brand new car idling like a tractor.
Does the dealer recognize that this is an unacceptable noise? Were you able to reproduce it for them? I personally will not accept that this is not a problem. I will pursue it in my usual pleasant, but firm manner if I encounter a problem.
Sure, it ruins the Focus Experience for me too. Still I won't bow down and push my clutch in to avoid a noise. I will get it fixed and I would advise you to do the same. Don't be embarassed.
I'll keep you updated. Maybe you should go see another dealer. My car makes quite a racket especially when it is cold. I intend to leave the car overnight at the dealer and allow them to start it up while it is cold and experience the tapping symphony for themselves.
ND
My version:
Pressing the clutch pedal - disengaging the clutch
Releasing the clutch pedal - engaging the clutch
The whole deal about the firestone tire replacement discouraged me to do it right away.
(now they're talking about expanding the recall)
But I always kept it in mind. And now will just wait for the results of your experience.
And if you're succesfull, man will I unload on them my frustration.
During my previous visitation I wasn't pushing at all.
And yes it's more louder first thing in the morning.
No. They just used their usual "it's normal".
Can you imagine my frustration?
But I kept it quiet. Was sure that sooner or later somebody with the same problem will try to fix it too.
Tune to the Speedvision channel on September 4
5:30pm pacific / 8:30pm eastern
Happy Holidays everybody!
Pop the hood on your Focus. Notice that there is a black plastic
shield right over the top of your radiator.This is there to control
how incoming air will flow thru your radiator. To the right of it ,
you can see the stock airbox inlet tube that carries cool air to the
fuel injection. Remove this black panel, and cut away the right
section that would be directly in front of this inlet funnel.
Re-attach the remaining panel back onto it's original mounting
position. What you have done is to form a crude "air tunnel" from the
front of the grill to your air inlet.
Things to consider: If you live in a rainy location, you need to
think about avoiding getting water going into the intake. The little
"hump" on the topside of the plastic panel is designed to deflect any
water drops from entering it. It was also mentioned that modifying
this panel causes less air to be forced thru the radiator, which could
present a heating problem for the engine.
However, I have run my ZTS for two weeks with this panel completely
removed, and have not seen the temp gauge change *at all*, even thru a
recent hot spell we have had in Southern Cal.And I usually drive the
car pretty hard.
I plan on ordering another one of these panels to keep stock, and then
do the cutout routine as above.So I can switch it out back to stock if
I want to. Also plan on getting a K&N filtercharger to drop in the
stock airbox, which will further lower air restriction, and adding
some anti-freeze "water-wetter" to the coolant to increase it's heat
transfer properties a little more.
a tweak for those on a budget. heck..it beats $300 "superchips" and
$600 headlamps.Well..it's cheaper than those, anyways.....=)
With the transmission in nuetral there is (relatively) no additional load compared to when you clutch is pushed in.
NJ
http://www.automedia-online.com/e_spion.htm
Worth a look.
http://www.svtexperience.com/
But i'm a bit disappointed with only 169 hp from that 2.5 v-6 engine. Also 7.1sec. from 0-60 is a bit disappointing as well.
Svt should squeeze at least 200 hp from that motor, and get around 6 to 6.5 sec. from 0-60.
Love the tires, though.
I just would like to encourage VADP to get happy about his focus again. I would definitely recommend for him to talk to the service manager. He is an unhappy customer. That is why he should go and see someone at his dealership so that his satisfaction with his very nice car can be 100%. Why should he be unhappy with a car that has less than 10,000 miles on it? Writing a letter to the dealer is a good idea too. Make your voice be heard vadp! Please!!!
Remember Ford is very concerned for their customer. I believe it. It just that you have to talk to the right people. If you believe...they will believe...and positive things happen! Nothing happens if you give up. Never give up. Never.
ND
What you want is a zx-3 that meets your satisfaction. Approach what is best for your car. Talk to them professionally and firmly. Anger is very detrimental.
If they respond poorly to you, then it is best to ignore them and talk to the manager of the dealer. Stay calm.
OK?
ND