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Should we all be worried? I see Teejay & Ann joined the town Hall in Oct/Nov, both with the oil burning, and now Bill is a new member with the same problem. Will we see our Celica engines start dropping like flies soon?????
2000 Toyota Celica GT for sale - Excellent Condition!!
:lemon:
Is there any indication of sludge building up in the oil?
I wish I had noticed that bluish exhaust prior to the sale - Surprised the mechanic who checked the vehicle out did not notice it. Not sure about Sludge build up in the oil. How would you know - What would cause it - What is done to correct it?
I suggest you try using Castrol 5W30 High Mileage Oil (or high mileage oil of your choice) & see if it cuts your consumption (worked like a charm on my daughter's '01 GT).
Also, check out the fine folks at http://www.newcelica.org for other assistance and hints for your Celica.
I checked out the newcelica.org forum and read all of the Celica Oil Consumption messages including yours. I will register at some point in the near future to further discuss this Oil Consumption issue and request feedback on what folks think of the Toyota Highlander.
but anyway, I have a 2001 GT, auto. every morning when I start the car, the rpm goes up to about 2000 and drops down to about 1000/800 in 8-10 minutes (it has been like this in the last 6 yrs). :sick: Does this happen to anyone by any chance? Does this mean that there is a problem with my car.
also, if i park the car in cold weather (below 30F) for more than 2 hrs, the starting rpm is normally high, too.
thanks much for any help.
In your case, does the car do this when the temperature is reasonable (50-60°F)? If so, I would think that there is a temperature sensor not working correctly. Otherwise, you described how a normal choke mechanism would work to warm the car up in cold weather.
For all those who doubt the veracity of some of the statements made regarding the oil consumption issue, I can tell you with certainty that four weeks after a scheduled full oil change/maintenance, the engine had apparently burned through all four quarts without even a drop of leakage.
My understanding is that the new catalytic converter (which I had to replace presumably because the oil burning issue had mucked up the first one) is so efficient that there winds up being being no visible sign of burning oil from the exhaust pipe at all.
So far I have been unable to find anyone at Toyota who will acknowledge this issue with the 2000 GT engines, though I have heard from several mechanics over at Toyota that there was indeed a problem with the 2000 GT engine which has subsequently been resolved in later models.
If anyone knows of a direct contact at Toyota where I can have this issue appropriately addressed I would appreciate receiving whatever information you can give me. I've been a lifelong Toyota owner, but this experience has made me question their historically high standards of quality.
Eltonron
Host- Automotive News & Views
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Best regards..
Are you the original owner? If so you should make requests of the dealership that sold you the car. Aka, give the dealership every chance to resolve the issues. If not, or if the dealership is of no help, find a 1800 number for Toyota's customer service to place an inquiry with.
My rpm drops very steady from 2000-800 over the 8 minutes period without bouncing up and down.
the rpm during a fine summer morning is about 1500 rpm and settles down to 800 in about 5 minutes.
so now i just assume that it is not too abnormal for this car.
Thanks In Advance,
~Bogdan
A lack of oil would explain the seizure of the engine. I have never heard of piston damage resulting from this, but I am no expert on the subject. Perhaps the piston bound to the side of the cylinder...? If so, that force will continue to bend everything connected to it.
Other Toyota engines have had their oil turn to sludge. While Toyota covered some of the repairs, they also said that people were extending their oil changes way too long.
This engine (same as mine) I am pretty sure did not have sludge problems.
If there was no oil and low compressions, was there a significant leak in the heads? That would spew oil all over the engine compartment. You would know where that missing oil went.
Of course, a compression test after a seizure might be an invalid test, as all of the pistons and/or cylinders may be obviously damaged.
I do not know if this is an interference engine, but you do have the signs of a timing chain skipping or breaking on an interference engine.
Did the damage happen during extreme acceleration and/or revving the engine past the redline?
The Celica is a beautiful, fun car. If you want to save gas money, you could end up disappointed. If you want it, buy the Celica for the fun-factor alone and forget the rest.
I have an '01 Celica with 78K on it.
About 6 months ago, during regular servicing at toyota, they said that the car had no oil in it. They wanted to come back after 1000 miles to see if all was good which I did. They did not find any issue. Since then, I gave it for servicing 3K later with no problem keeping an eye on the oil consum
ption. The other day, after 2 K oil was nearly empty.
Two mechanics have confirmed there is no oil leak. A friend of mine noticed a tinge of blue smoke once. I've been regularly maintaiining this vehicle and I'm the original owner.
I'm seeing a lot of other owners with similar oil burning issues. Anybody have any ideas what the causes are?
Did the mechanics just peek underneath the car? Have a detailed inspection done is my advice. Something will hint at the problem.
After fixing the tires, wheels and broken plactic radiator grill, now I feel the steering wheel vibrate slightly when I cruise at 90MPH or above.
My other GTS are rock solid at or above 90MPH.
The tire shop says nothing is wrong with the tires or the wheels. He's suggesting a dynamic balancing where they would spin up the wheels, in the car, to about 60 MPH to see if there are any bent parts in the front axle. Will cost about $200.
Any ideas or comment?
All of that in check, my personal, totally inexperienced opinion [that out of the way] is that I agree with the mechanics. The shaking is a balance / symmetry issue. If the wheel is balanced, then something is awry on down the line.
On your side, one would think that Toyota, or an experienced suspension mechanic may find hints of damaged parts without this expensive spinup they want to do.
thecopyqueen
How about this: A fuse for the accessories is not making contact, but the engine warms up the fuse enough for it to make contact? Are the offending accessories on the same fuse, or is the problem with ALL accessories? (Headlights, radio, unrelated stuff...)
Does the car have any accessories that were not professionally installed? Anything in particular that was wired directly to the battery? Check their power and ground for a good connection.
Got any more details?
After that, I had been searching on internet regarding this problem. but no complain as mine(it maybe my car problem
OOOH! The ignition switch controls power to the accessories. Try rocking the key slightly forward or in/out. Can you get the accessories on by doing that? That's a highly used part that would be subject to wear!
This is a very interesting problem, please keep us informed!
There is a TSB issued in the UK for it. :lemon:
The fix is a rebuilt shortblock from Toyota. They take your core, rebuild it, and put it back into parts stock. The problem is the pistons, piston rings, and cylinder wall design. All of which were changed on the '02+ engines. So, either hound Toyota for a rebuilt shortblock (if you're under warranty) or look for an '02+ engine. Corolla, Matrix, and Vibe engines will fit w/some modifications. Those may be easier to locate than a Celica one.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
How can we navigate on the US TSB site to find this problem? I searched the 2000 Celica, and the 2 engine links provided, but could not find a similar report.
Thanks!
It looks like my options are to find a better Toyota-knowledgeable person (any ideas for Joliet, Illinois?) or have a mechanic in the car with me at all times, because the problem never happens when they're around
If it's totally dead, without cranking, then the ingition module is likely dead.
Use the exact type of spark plugs recommended in the manual or this ignition module will not last long.
Trace the wire bundles from the battery in the engine bay into the area under the dash and tape up any areas that may be chafing against metal parts. That should help. Knocking on the parts and panels to loosen any pinched wires may help also
Had the same problem with intermittent electrical shorting which drained the battery. Turned out the car was in a minor accident, denting the door. Wires for the power window motor were pinched between the door panel and internal parts, causing intermittent shorting.
Hook it up to the diagnostic port under the dash at the driver's left knee. Find out what parts are not working.
You can trouble shoot from there.
Dealer shop would do the same thing. The designs of Toyota's engines are very simple and logical. You should be able to find and fix the root cause.
Search the internet or ask other people in this forum.
Good luck and have fun.
Gauge would drop back to normal after engine has been turned off and back on. It does not look like a true over heat since an overheating engine cannot cool off say in 1-2 minutes after an engine restart. I have driven about 30 miles now and engine runs fine.
I did also notice that the coolant reservoir was almost empty after refilling it once when the clutch work was done. The problem persists after refilling the reservoir. Any suggestions?
Problem is likely a broken rotary solenoid inside the door. Dealers sell the complete assembly with the 2 cables for about $250. Order the specific left or right door power door lock assembly.
1. Remove the plastic door panel:
Remove the plastic part behind the door lever: 3 snap in tabs, 1 in front 2 on top adn bottom
Remove 2 plastic caps then 2 screws near the door hinge.
Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the door panel.
Remove 1 long screw in the middle of the door handle.
Remove 2 white plastic snap ins at the rear edge of the door.
Gently lift up and take out the plastic panel.
Disconnect the 2 cable ends attached to the door lever before completely pulling the door panel out.
2. Remove the door solenoid assembly:
Roll glass window up for better access to inside door panel.
Undo the black sealant and remove the upper left/right part of the clear plastic sheet for access inside the door.
Unscrew 3 hex-head screws holding the lock to the door's rear edge
Unscrew 1 10mm bolt on the middle left door corner holding the solenoid assembly. Do not remove the 10 mm free-rolling nut above it. This nut stays in place.
Remove the ends of 2 S-shape rods inside the door from the lock assembly. These rods' ends are held in place by small plastic snap-on locks. Unsnap the locks before pulling out the rods' ends from their sockets.
Now everything is unscrewed, slide the solenoid assembly towards the front of the door and take it out
3. To assemble the solenoid assembly, simply reverse the process.
Everything is logically assembled. Do not use too much force. You should not be able to break anything. You should be able to save aprroximately $500 and half day wait doing it yourself. Good luck