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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)



  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    No 5S-FE superchargers.

    There are a few turbo kits for the 5S-FE available also.
  • bpraxisbpraxis Posts: 292
    Hello everyone and Happy Thanksgiving.

    My 2000 Toyota Celica GT with 36,000 miles on it will not shift into overdrive.

    Has anyone had a similar problem?

    The dealer could not fix it the first time in.

    The check engine light has also come on and the dealer said they had to order a knock sensor.

    I have the impression they were not to sure about the knock sensor but they dont really know why the check engine light came on.

    These are the first problems that I have encountered with the 2000 Celica and would most appreciate any input.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    the computer stores "check engine" codes PRECISELY so the dealer will know what the problem is!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • bpraxisbpraxis Posts: 292
    The check engine light is on and the dealer said that it is a knock sensor that they have to order. The service manager did not seem confident in his diagnosis.

    The transmission will not shift into overdrive. And the dealer was unable to fix it on the first try. I had to sit there for three hours for nothing.

    Any input would be much appreciated.
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    Dont Leave them alone until you are satisfied that they have answered all the questions that they can. I'm tired of Dealers treating people like they are doing them a favor, you are a patron, even if you are doing warranty service the dealer gets paid big bucks.
  • I am planning on buying a Celica GTS this summer in Aug. and was wondering if anyone knows of any common problems found with them?
  • 01r101r1 Posts: 280
    Rollin_hard- My 2001 GT-S has been a great car so far. I've driven it hard for the past 32K miles and no real complaints. The only repair I've had done was a squealing noise from the belt/pulley area. There was a TSB out for it so they replaced the tensioner pulley and V-belt. Unfortunetly, it's doing it again, almost a year later. It seems like the cold wet weather brings it out. It's just barely under warranty, so I'm taking it back tomorrow to have it fixed.
  • 01r101r1 Posts: 280
    Rollin- I went through for mine, don't remember the exact final price, but do remember it was dealer invoice + $500. I used an online resource (like Edmund's) to figure out the exact dealer invoice first. Costco gave me a contact name and dealer to go talk to, no negotiations, just $500 over invoice, take it or leave it. They didn't have the color I wanted, so they did a dealer trade and the next day I drove it home.

    I got all options, except leather, on my GT-S. That was hard combination to find since most had leather. Every GT-S I drove in the summer with leather seamed too hot for me, even with the A/C cranked up, so I opted for the cloth and have been very happy with it.

    Some mods I've done that dramatically increase performance are: AEM cold air intake w/ K&N cone behind left fog light, TRD catback exhaust, and a front strut tower brace. I got a little more low-end torque and lot more high-end HP with the intake and exhaust. The handling response improved (almost too much) with the front tower brace, although I have to keep a firm grip of the wheel over any pavement irregularities.

    The best thing I like about this car is not only it's performance characteristics, but the great gas mileage it gets. Around town, stop and go type traffic, I get 28-31 mpg consistently. Out on the open road my best is 39mpg but consistently get 36-38 mpg with CC set to 70-75mph.

    Good luck with your acquisition!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    How much louder was engine noise and intake noise after adding the AEM cold air intake? I don't own a Celica but am curious as to the increase in noise these things cause. Is it annoying under normal driving conditions? My filter would be drawing from the front quarterpanel behind the fog light, similar to your set-up. Thanks for any feedback.
  • 01r101r1 Posts: 280
    Ingtonge18- Under normal driving, CAI noise is not noticeable. Full throttle below 6K rpm's it growls and you can hear it a little. 6K-8K rpms, look out, everyone on the block will know you're up to something! The intake noise from 6-8K rpm's is actually louder than the TRD exhaust, while below that it's the exhaust you hear.

    Not sure what you're putting it in, but I've had varied results. I had a '90 Prelude Si before the GT-S and it sounded good, helped power, and the noise was not annoying. Put one on my '98 CR-V and I lost low-end torque, gained noise all the time, and finally pulled it out and put the stock one back in.

  • I just bought my 2000 Celica from a private seller. It only has about 23,000 miles on it and the tires are barely legal and are horrible in the snow (I live in Buffalo). I checked out prices at a couple of tire stores and they said that I am going to need high performance tires for it. I am planning on getting all-season tires instead of winter tires. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy tires and what type of tire should I get? I have been getting a lot of different suggestions and I am now totally confused!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Hmm..I wonder why your CRV was so different? That kind of problem is what I'm afraid of wasting money on. My application is an 03 Suzuki Aerio SX with 2.0 DOHC 16 valve 145 hp engine. This engine is tuned for low-end torque (the max of 136 lb ft occurs at 3000 rpms), so I'm worried that I would loose some low-end grunt for just a little better pull at 6k. Import Tuner tested an intake modification (not AEM as it wasn't released yet) and gained 3-5 hp. Can I make an assumption from this that modifying the intake will produce good results?
  • 01r101r1 Posts: 280
    Did Import Tuner show a graph with the HP & Torque curves? If they did, look at the stock curve down low and compare with their mod curve. Some mods will net 5hp at the HP peak, but may lose 5+ hp somewhere else, yielding less overall power.

    It all depends on how you drive it, do you like to rev it up or short-shift down low? My CR-V I kept the RPM's 4K and below under normal driving. The intake's increase was 5500-6500 rpms, so I had to really get on it right to redline to notice the extra power.

    I think it's safe to say you will see an increase in HP somewhere in the power band, usually the in top 25% of the RPM range. But without looking at some dyno results, you really don't know how much of the low-end is effected.

    Good luck!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    the GTS is designed to run on high performance tires, but I am sure that if you are willing to give up a little dry weather handling, there are plenty of 16" tires you could find that would be all-season and still provide good handling. For instance, Michelin makes XGTV4's and Pilots that are both all-season I believe, and their handling is very good. Toyo makes a really good tire for this type of application too. Go to a tire store that sells lots of brands and ask their advice.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sergeissergeis Posts: 134
    Replaced all these junky Dunlops (stock on GT) with Michelin Pilots XGT - I like them, especially because noise from Dunlops was annoying to begin with and became unbearable after 25K. In my opinion Pilots also handle somewhat better and give slightly softer ride.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    The GTS 16" tire is a unique size. Unless one spends a lot of money on tires, they are going to wear quick, "all season" or not.

    I suggest, as their prices are ridiculously lower than tire stores. I'd pick a price point, and pick a tire with good reviews.
  • Thanks everyone for the tire info. I went to to get some prices and ideas on which kind will best suit me. Happy holidays to all!
  • My mother has a 2001 Celica GTS. I tried to put a child car seat in her back seat but was unable to get it tight enough because the seat belt comes from the side rather than the crease. The reult was that no matter how tight we pulled the straps, it still moved more than the one inch maximum. We went to the police station to talk to an expert installer but he was unable to do it too. My hope is that there is another brand of car seat (we have a Graco) that works well in a Celica. Do any of you have a car seat that you were able to install properly?
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    Senel1, if you haven't already, check the conferences for a car seat topic. I hope you get the info. you need. :)

    Merry Christmas Celica owners! Anyone out there doing donuts today? Got probably 6 inches of snow in a day, taking Cleveland from pure green & brown to pure white. Well, I hope that makes SOMEBODY happy, 'cause I HATE inclement weather. It's just not safe to drive in!
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Senel1- To add, here's a car seat discussion from our Aftermarket & Accessories board that you may find helpful: Car Seats That Fit. Use your copy/paste so you don't have to re-write your message. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your Toyota Celica experience.

    Guitarzan- Thanks for all your help here. Merry Christmas! ;-)


    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    I had a long discussion yesterday with a mechanic. He says he reads 200 pages of manufacturer tech literature a week, which is only a fraction of what they put out. He seems very knowledgeable.

    I found his recommendation frightening & interesting. He said that my 6000 mile oil change interval is way too long, and that I must change the oil every 2-3000 miles. He pointed to the recent cases of oil gelling in Toyota's engines. I had read the newspaper articles, but they weren't that informative. He's read a lot more. Says Toyota is right, that the oil changes weren't frequent enough, and the particles in the oil cause it to gel. His recommendation was for owners of all types of vehicles to change the oil at 2-3k miles. Says the newer recommendations for oil changes are way too long, and driving conditions in this country are all close to "severe driving" conditions, no matter what others say.

    I used to have that opinion, and kept some of my crankcases perfectly clean. But it is hard to justify, without proof, spending double or triple the $ on oil. I guess it just confuses me more.

    I use Mobil 1 synthetic, and a Bosch oil filter, both apparently of very good quality. I understand my GTS engine is very complex. Perhaps I'll change it at 3-4k, a little more frequently. The mechanic DID say that synthetic will go longer between changes, that this is it's "only advantage". I don't know, I'm pretty in-tune to my vehicle. In the cold winter, I can feel changes in vibration in the engine during startup. And these 4-cylinders especially, seem to cold idle much smoother with an oil that flows better, either lower viscosity, or synthetic over petroleum. So, I digress a little with this guy's opinion. And he is one of those people that would be proud to put 200k on his engine, and have it still run perfect. I don't think I'll ever own a car for it's usable life, and I don't think it is that important to treat the engine "gingerly". What's the point of a "like new" engine, when the shocks are done for, joints are ready to collapse, and the 2nd clutch is gonna need replacement...ya know? Sorry for the long rant, but I like to share things I'm told with you guys.
  • 01r101r1 Posts: 280
    I've been changing my GTS' oil every 3000 and I use Castrol Syntec 5-50w 100% synthetic. I too, feel I'm in tune with my car and notice small characteristics, the synthetic makes it run smoother and little more kick up around redline. I drive it pretty hard, so I figured I better stick to the 3K oil change intervals. Though, when I drain it, you can still see through the oil, it's not still clear but it's not that black either. If this was the lower revving GT, or a different driver, I could see 4000-4500 intervals with synthetic, but regularly hitting ~8200 RPMs at full throttle demands clean high performance oil.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I don't think I will ever have the patience to own a Toyota for its useable life either, which prompts the obvious question: are significant extra pains to maintain it worth the effort?

    I think with minimal by-the-book maintenance it will go to 120K+, and that is five years or more, by which time the idea of getting a new car is growing...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • voochvooch Posts: 92
    I have 2000 GT that gets quite disappointing mpg. Although I drive probably 90% city miles on average, it gets in the low 20's. Should I expect this? My experience with all my previous cars have not been the same. On the highway it gets low 30's or right at 30. I've had 2 '84 Celicas before this one that got 28-29 no matter how I drove them. I've also had a 626 that got 30+ regularly. I do drive the 2000 a lot more city miles probably but I expected it to get at least 25+ mpg. Its a stick too, as all the cars I mentioned were. I just can't imagine such a small 4 cylinder car with a stick getting low 20's in any situation.

    I really wish I had never gotten rid of one of my '84s. It was the best car overall I've ever had. Loved it. I drove it like a dog too, although it wasn't too quick, which is probably why I drove it so hard. It was in pristine condition, I can't believe I got rid of it.

    I think I'm getting too old for tiny 2 door coupes though =) I find this one a tad too crowded and I'm ready to get something with a little more room. I'm really going to miss the handling though when I do trade it in. Its by far the most fun to drive.

    Some complaints are the lack of interior space which I can't really complain about because the inside hasn't gotten any smaller than when I first bought it =) Its definitely not a road trip car though. Also, it has a rattle in the hatchback that dealership didn't seem to fix and the CD player sucks. It spits out cds after 15 mins or so.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    and my 85 have the same engine, which is the truck powertrain from those years...essentially a largish high-torque, low-power motor which would vary a lot less in its gas mileage depending on style of driving and city/highway use.

    The current celica (I had an '02) is a much more efficient engine, so that if you baby it you will have exceptional mileage, and if you drive it like it is supposed to be driven, mileage can drop dramatically. Doing mostly city doesn't help.

    I have a light foot and consistently got low-to-mid-30s in mine, which had a manual transmission, in half-and-half city and highway.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • We have a 2002 GT with 12,000 miles on it. We routinely get 33 mpg, with about 80% of our driving highway/ 20% city. The best we ever did was 36 mpg. We bought the car because my wife loved it's looks and for it's handling, and have been very pleasantly surprised by how great the mileage has been.
  • dq1dq1 Posts: 44
    I have a '00 GT with about 32k miles on it. Recently, I've started hearing a slight tapping noise coming from the engine that isn't the injectors. I'm wondering if this is anything I should be too concerned about?

    I don't drive the car excessively hard but I don't baby it either. I normally will run it up to about 4500 rpm's when accelerating, but I spend a lot of time at 80mph (~4,000 rpm) on the interstate, so I don't think I'm being too hard when accelerating. I have taken it to redline quite a few times but from what I've read in this forum, these engines are designed to take a lot of punishment. My previous auto was a truck with a v6, so maybe I'm just not used to these smaller, higher revving cars.
  • sergeissergeis Posts: 134
    2000 GT auto - when bought was doing 34-35 mpg on interstate, after a couple of years and ~20K was getting between 36 and 40 mpg. City miles - anywhere between 20 and 30 mpg, depends on city, engine temp etc.
  • gambit293gambit293 Posts: 406
    I got this data from :

    2001-2003 celica GT MPG city/highway
    Manual 28/33
    Auto 29/36

    I remember noticing this difference on the car window stickers back when I was shopping for a celica in 2001. I asked a salesman why the auto had better mileage than the manual and he had no idea either.
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