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2010 Chevy Equinox Problems



  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    I apologize for your experience. How did things go at the dealer? Has your issue been resolved. Please feel free to email me.
    GM Customer Service
  • Gamehawker,

    Did you ever get a resolution to your oil consumption problem? I am having a similar issue with my 2010 Equinox. It is consuming about 1 quart per 2900 miles with no external leaks. I am now getting the "runaround" from the service group and the GM customer service group saying that this is "normal".

    Thank you.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Oil burning will eventually foul emission devices too. And possibly cause it to not pass annual emission testing if you have that in your state. Their wty is usually 8 years.
    Although, if the oil consumption continues to rise, you will probably be making an emission wty claim before your time runs out.

    My suggestion is to ensure you have the correct dipstick for your engine, so that you can rule out overfilling. Overfilling is also very bad as it puts undue pressure on various engine seals and will cause premature failure. Some though will last the wty period before they seep.
    When you check oil, so as per the owner's manual procedure. Level vehicle. best to check in the morning before the engine has been running since the day before. Waiting upwards of 30 min to an hour if the engine was completely warmed up, will also give you a pretty close indicator that enough has drained back into the sump area where the dipstick goes. But confirm the dipstick. Incorrect ones are more common in new vehicles than many realize. Check the part number, jive it with as many sources as you can working your way back right to the engine builder if need be. If the other poster gets back to you, have them check their build date and location also in case that would be a clue.
  • I got my 2010 Equinox last July due to the published 32 EPA est values.
    We have driven it over 25K in 7 months due to long work commutes (90 miles each way, with 90% of it on the interstate highway). We put on the cruise while on the highway.
    Our overall MPG are 24.2! I am very disappointed in this performance for our commuter car. Otherwise, it is comfortable and sporty enough, but the reason we purchased it was due to the EPA.
    Any suggestions on how to boost this overall MPG??
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,643
    Don't have a nox, but in general from my experiance wih other GM vehicles I get the best milage when temps are above 45 or so. 55 MPH on the interstate is good also. Not sure if the Nox has a tach or not but if it does I think 1500~~> 1900 rpms for the V6 or perhaps 1900~~>2100 for the 4 might be good. Also if you have the instant economy display on D.I.C. you can use that as a guide. Your actual experiance/milage will or course stll vary ;)
  • terexterex Posts: 26
    If you have an L4 FWD, published EPA average fuel economy is 26; 23 with AWD. If you have a V6, less. Ambient temperatures, speed, jack-rabbit starts etc impact fuel economy as well. Got to relearn how to drive for better MPG.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I believe the 32 is figured at 55 mph and I'll bet a buck you are going a lot faster than that. Go 55 and I bet you beat the 32 mpg.
  • can you please forward me the actual bullentin to
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Could you please send me the actual TSB as well? Thanks.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    edited February 2011
    The OP hasn't logged in for a few months; meanwhile the spam harvesters are here all the time sniffing out email addresses that people post.
  • My 2010 Equinox is burning what I deem to be exceesive oil (and no leaks found). The dealership has found no issues with the engine and now wants me to bring in the car every 1000 miles to monitor the oil usage over the next 5000 miles. I have almost 30000 miles on my car. The first time noticed something wrong was about 20000 when the car started to stall. I brought it to the dealership and they questioned if I put oil in or changed the oil. I had the information from the places that had done the oil changes so the dealership then suggested that the last garage had underfilled the oil. I went to their garage the next time but I had pt in 2 quarts myself before the oilchange because I had a road trip and didn't want any issues. I had to put in anohter 2 quarts after that oil change befor emy latest oil change again as I was going on a road trip. The dealership wouldn't give me the metric to measure if there is a problem. I do commute about 60 miles round trip via highway everyday to work plus a lot of town driving for family errands. Any suggestions on how I should track and handle future situations with the dealership?
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Keep a log for two or three months, then bring that to the dealer as verification you are losing oil. They will then probably check for leaks, and if they don't find any then the obvious answer is it is consuming it. Then they'll start to look for that, which would be an internal engine issue.

    You might want to go to a different dealer if this one is giving you problems. Also keep an eye out for your mileage. I know the powertrain warranty is 5/100k, but just in case it is something not covered by that be sure that you are within the 36/36 bumper to bumper.
  • Thanks - good idea. I think I will also check the oil myself to check for consistency against what the dealer says. The dealership isn't giving me any issues, but I want them to be clearer about how they are assessing this problem to determine the next steps. I just grabbed my warranty book to see what I can find.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    An oil consumption test is the first steps for the dealer to determine the oil consumption to see if it is what is above what is deemed to be standard oil consumption. Please keep me updated on your progress. If you have any questions please feel free to email me.
    GM Customer Service
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Wally had some good suggestions I see you have read. This is the type of topic that there are so many variables it is hard to help over the internet. I recommend covering the bases I mentioned in my first post. It is a process of elimination when troubleshooting a suspected ailment. You start with the easiest things first and work your way up the ladder. But don't skip the easy steps. Make sure it has the right dipstick (get a second opinion, so you help rule out the yes-man answer) Then ensure it hasn't been over or underfilled (which sounds like you are trying to be on top of).

    In an effort to zero in on a brand's responsibility with a legit wty claim/repair, it often is as simple as comparing your car to the thousands like it out there. Oil consumption "acceptable parameters" are all pretty liberal. i.e. when they say it meets their guidelines, usually those guidelines are excessive oil usage and if ALL the cars like yours out there, all burned THAT amount of oil, then there would be a big uproar and the mfgr would have to address it. A lone voice is way harder to be heard or taken seriously.

    Regardless of their stated acceptable oil usage guidelines, if your car is using a far greater notable amount of oil, compared to your neighbour who has the same car and engine drivetrain etc. then they need to address it. Engines come off an assembly line all built with the intention of a consistent build quality. But sometimes a bad part is used (a scored ring, or a brittle piston ring that breaks) and if that happens in your car, then yours will be the one using way more oil than someone elses. What I am trying to say here, is emphasis should be on a relatively new car with few miles on it (under 50000) engines that have received the recommended oil change etc maintenance intervals, the engine should not be burning more than about half a quart between changes. Tops. My 4 cyl CRV with 51000 miles on it uses so little oil it is barely down on the stick between changes. (about 250ml). I expect that to maybe increase to 350 or 400 ml when I get to 100000 miles. BUT! Not necessarily. Many engines still only use about 1/4 quart even at 100k.
  • gimmestdtranny,

    Thanks for your feedback on my 2010 Equinox oil burning issue.

    The dipstick is the correct version for my vehicle. Also, I have been monitoring the dipstick to see the oil usage. The service group and I agree that my vehicle is consuming about 1 quart per 2900 miles with no external leaks.

    The problem I am having now is that they are saying that is normal or within their limits; they are stringing me along. In my opionion, a new engine burning this much oil has a defect. Based on the users manual and the oil life gauge, I would have to put in several quarts of oil between oil changes. That is ridicule for a new engine.

    I can understand a factory defect because GM manufactures so many vehicles but the customer service response to my issue has been poor. I figure one more trip to the service department. If they still feel there is no problem, I think my only recourse is to see a lemon law attorney.
  • I just had the oil changed at 3k miles (because it's been empty if wait until oil life indicator at 5k) in my 2010 Equinox and the oil didn't even show on the dip stick which he said would be 3 quarts low. 3 quarts in 3000 miles!?!? With no external leaks whatsoever. Ridiculous!

    I wish the Chevy Customer Service person on here would explain this because I can't find in the owners manual anywhere that it should consume a quart of oil every 1k miles.
  • I had my 2010 Equinox at the dealership this weekend to install the "official update", and it did take care of the recurring noise upon acceleration, but there is still a rattling noise! It is especially loud with the a/c unit is running, doesn’t matter what speed. I live in the south so I’ve already had my a/c running, I can really hear it when the vehicle is stopped? Is anyone else experiencing this? I just have a hard time believing a new vehicle should sound like this, right?!? :confuse: :lemon:
  • From my experience with this oil burning issue (consumption test, etc.), the dip stick reflects approximately 1 quart - what I mean is that on the dip stick from the top crosshatched box to the bottom crosshatched box represents about a quart of oil. If it goes below the dip stick (nothing on dip stick) then you have consumed more than a quart and you cannot tell from the dip stick how much more than a quart has been consumed. You may have a similar problem to what I am experiencing.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,665
    ...says that oil usage of one quart per 1000 miles is within spec..

    Personally, I'd be alarmed if my vehicle used that much.... but, that isn't the dealership's opinion... .it comes straight from Chevy (or Honda, or BMW, etc, etc).



    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    We have a 2010 LT2. With a baby in the back seat, we want to be able to turn on the rear dome light. The only way to do this is to turn on all interior lights from the front upper console (or I guess open a door). I was very surprised that the rear dome light can't be turned on from the back seat.

    i went to the dealer, and they showed me a NOX with switches next to the rear dome light. They said we must not have that feature... Very odd since we got about every option under the sun. Anyone know if this can be installed now or what option/trim came with an independent rear dome light? As the father of a 2 month old, we could use this simple feature!

  • Latest is that the dealership tells me (after checking the oil level after 1000 miles) the oil that was used originally from a different garage was not viscous enough and was causing excessive oil usage. Of course, two oil changes were done at the dealership and still had excessive usage - more than 1 qt per 2000 miles. I don't really believe their answer so now I feel I need to take pictures of the dip stick before the dealership checks the oil level every 1000 miles for the next 5000 miles. Opinions on the oil viscosity versus excessive oil usage?
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    If you were using the recommended weight of 5W30 then their claim is bogus. If you were using 5W20 or 0W20 then the lower weight could cause more consumption (shouldn't, expecially in that new of an engine, but could), especially in a defected engine.
  • ags07ags07 Posts: 1
    Boy I should have come to this site a long time ago, like August 2009 when I bought my 2010. I too am having problems with engine knocks, exceleration and deceleration issues. Initially the dealership blamed it on the type of gas I was using. Next visit they did a software update and replaced the timing chain (belt?). Apparently there was a "design" issue with what holds the belt and it would knock against the housing. Sorry I'm sounding so vague but my "SUVEE" (that's her name) is in the shop again with the same issues and I don't have my paperwork for what they "fixed" the last visit. Today I received an update call and he mentioned an issue with the cam housing and transmission issues. Looks I'm stuck driving the HHR rental for a while. Love my SUVEE but like I said I should have checked this site out closer before my purchase - maybe I should have gone with the Hyundai.
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    It is nothing to do with the timing chain. It has to do with them being too agressivee with the spark timing. If you use mid-grade fuel (89 octane) instead of regular (87) you'll be fine. I actually use premium (91 octane if you can find a station that doesn't mix ethanol in, 93 octane if ethanol is mixed in) because I get about 2 mpg better than with plus. It also accelerates better and runs smoother with the premium fuel.

    If you want to still use 87, then you can get an update to the computer that changes the timing of the spark. There is a technical service bulletin out on it that the dealer can look up for you, or you can look it up online yourself. But expect to lose at least 1 mpg. I choose to keep the better mpg and better running engine, but pay more for gas. I figured it out and money-wise it is about even regarding mpg (more for gas but better mpg vs. less mpg but using 87 octane gas), so I go for the option that results in better performance.

    For the transmission, the best you can do is get the updated transmission calibration that came out 15 months ago or so. It still isn't perfect, but is much improved over the original calibration that shipped in vehicles made from March 2009-September 2009.
  • alynorahalynorah Posts: 1
    Hi, just bought my 2011 chevy equinox in dec of 2010. This has been my 3rd checy and I have always been pleased by the GM brand. Well, after about 3 weeks of having the car, I noticed a slight "ping/clunk" every time I would turn the wheel, either a sharp left or sharp right to get out of either a parking spot or my driveway. I have taken it back to the same dealership and finally on the last time, they were able to not only hear but feel the noise.(They have been very patient with me) I left it with them for the entire day and the car made the noise one more time. However, they couldnt find the cause. They said that they check everything under the car and everything was tight. They attributed it it something called "body Flexing". My question is - should a brand new car off the lot be experiencing something with the chassis and suspension already? I have opened a ticket with GM and so far no one else has reported it. They basically told me to wait until the issue becomes worse and then take it in. Ii am just frustrated bc it is a new vehicle and I specifically bought a new vehicle to stay away from these issues! Okay on to the second issue- the high pinging of the engine. I have had trucks and SUV's before this one and none of my trucks/ cars have ever made that noise. When I asked the dealership they told me "That is because the engine sits up high." I think the betook me for a moron.. but I dont think that I should be able to hear the engine over the radio at some points.. When I take it in for an oil change here (I only have about 2000 miles on her so far) I am going to ask them address that issue and not to tell me it is because the engine sits up high.. Has anyone else hear of the "ping/thunk" noise when ou are making a turn? I thought it might be the CV joints but they said they checked that too... arrg... I really do like chevy...but am frustrated
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    I'm not sure about the "ping/thunk" thing, but the engine pinging is caused by them telling you that you can use 87 octane gas, when really you can't. Their spark timing is too agressive for 87 octane but they did it to help improve fuel mileage. There are two solutions: use 89 octane or higher, or there is a computer update that changes the spark timing. But you also lose 1-2 mpg with this update. Personally, I have found that I have no problems using 89 octane. But, if I go to 93 (premium), I improve mpg by 2 mpg, and I get better performance. The cost is about the same per mile using premium or plus (89), so I go with the option that gives the better performance at about the same cost.
  • rocketentrocketent Posts: 60
    87 octane does not result in pinging here. Considering the number of units sold, there's only a small percentage of owners claiming a problem with pinging.

    I stop every Nox I see, whether it's in a parking lot or a neighbor, to listen to the motor and ask the owner about this and I have not heard the sound or the complaint from anyone yet. Still looking, ....'er, listening. :)
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    When I first bought my car I was using 87 octane and would hear the pinging everytime I accelerated, and the pinging got worse if I was going up a hill. I swithced over to 89 octane, (as suggested by some posteres here) and I have not heard the pinging since.

    I've tried different brands of gas, and the pinging always comes back at 87 octane.

    Add me to the "pinging" list.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Have you spoke with a dealer about this?
    Here is what the owners manual states:
    "Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, an audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock, might be heard when driving. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, the engine needs service."
    GM Customer Service
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