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The rear lens on most cars is a single unit. It is on my VW and it is on our Honda. I haven't attempted a bulb replacement, but I do know that the owner's manual is sparse on details for the DIY'er.
I don't know what special tool you need for an oil change other than, let's see, 10 mm socket and screwdriver to remove/replace the belly pan and an oil filter wrench to remove/replace the oil filter. It's not exactly rocket science.
Sorry to hear about your electrical issues...now that would drive me nuts.
BULBS:
Although all American and Japanese cars that I've owned required taking the entire tail-light OUT (using a phillips screw-driver from outside the vehicle) every European car that I've seen built in the last couple decades allow one to change bulbs without ANY tools, from the inside (such as trunk).
With my wife's Eurovan, you lift the access panel on either side (which also houses the jack and tools on one side, plus additional storage where we keep a first-aid kit) and then you simply squeeze the big tabs on the sides of the bulb-holder assembly and out comes this big plastic assembly with ALL the bulbs (tail-light/brake, signal, backup) easily accesible.
No tools, you don't get dirty, and you can do it on a rainy night without a flash-light from inside the van without getting wet!
My kids can change bulbs on any modern VW without risk of scratching the paint. Are the Japanese catching up yet, or do you still have to dismantle your car to change bulbs?
A Framon Sidewinder will make VW key and it is what my local locksmith and dealer both use to cut keys of the VW type.
If you still have at least one working key, you can order a replacement key off the internet for under $50. Examples are www.keylessride.com and www.streetkeys.com .
I checked with local dealer and they charge $80 for valet and $120 to $150 for remote key depending on year of VW.
Certain VW dealers should be ashamed of themselves for the prices they charge. $170 for valet key is extremely excessive.
My local indie has no problem opening the belly pan to get at the filter. The "special tool" required was a socket wrench. And he stocks the filters and fluids specified by VW.
OTOH, I too replaced both headlights at about the same time (they are easy to replace too), and was towed a couple times. Turned out that there was nothing wrong with my car - it's just sensitive to flooding. If I had gone to flooded-mode engine starting it would have started. Now I know.
Thanks.
Question: Does your car have a air deflector on the sunroof? If not try one; if so, try it without.
The only time I'll get the "blowing over the opening of a coke bottle" noise is if only one rear window is opened.
I just traded in a Ford Expedition for a Passat Wagon TDI. I have two kids under 4. I don't want the little mats for the back seat. I'm looking for something comparable to the husky liner I had in the Expedition that covered the entire rear floor area.
Sorry if this has already been discussed. I ran a search and couldn't find anything.
In almost two years of ownership, I've gotten 22.5 mpg overall (with over 95% of my driving in the city/suburbs). This is very consistent with other cars that we've owned - over the long haul we average about 1 or 2 miles over the EPA city mileage value.
On the Interstate, I consistently will get in excess of 30 mpg, with my record being about 32.5. Any Interstate trip over 30 minutes will get me these kind of results, driving an indicated 72 mph. If I slowed down to the posted 65, I believe that 35 mpg would be possible.
Incidental other info that may impact the mileage:
I've run Valvoline Synpower 5w-40 since the first oil change. I keep the tires (OEM Michelin MXVs) at 32 PSI all around.
"Dear Mr. Klauss:
I wrote to you on February 24, 2004 concerning maintenance/service issues concerning our Passat Wagon (1.8T) purchased in May of 2001. You evidently referred my concerns to Volkswagen of America’s regional coordinator, who was very responsive. Thank you.
Now with the car at just over 40,000 miles, we’ve incurred two new expenses on parts that generally should not fail; an oxygen sensor and turn signal switch. You should also know that the shielded vacuum hoses used on the 1.8T have disintegrated, appearing as though they were replaced after 140,000 miles. Honestly, the problems we’ve had since our purchase have been specifically with inexpensive parts from VW suppliers that create expensive repair bills.
During the initial two years of ownership, we’ve had to replace a windshield wiper relay, a malfunctioning key fob, fuel sender unit and the ignition coils (all under warranty). A coolant sensor had to be replaced just after the warranty expired.
It’s pretty obvious that VW, in its efforts to cut costs, has squeezed its suppliers to the point that they’re delivering parts of poor quality. Most car companies have taken cost cutting measure as well, but many seem to have avoided the poor quality records now befalling German companies.
As stated in my previous correspondence, we love the car for its design, handling and performance characteristics, comfort and good fuel mileage. But this string of nagging quality issues has made it very difficult for me to recommend a Volkswagen much less purchase a new one. Most certainly, VW must get the cooperation of all its suppliers and demand the same high quality it demands of itself.
Once again, thank you for your kind indulgence."
We'll see where that letter gets me. My previous letter resulted in a check to cover the service cost to replace the coolant sensor.
Otherwise, I can report that the initial lag when stomping the throttle of the 1.8T is normal. It's not as bad with the AC turned off. We had the same problem as some of the other postings stated with the fule gauge. That was corrected with a new fuel sender unit. The wind buffeting with the sunroof is also common. Crack the rear windows or buy a wind deflector. They look sharp anyway. Like my letter says, everything about the car, including build quality, is generally great except for the inferior parts that break.
My wife and I notice that when we hit the gas, the turbo seems to emit a sort of "whistle". We didn't notice this when we test drove, but we really seem to notice now.
I assume it has something to do with rapid air intake into the turbo. Does anybody else have this and is this normal? If not, perhaps I have a problem with vapor leak or something.
Any thoughts?
kcram
Host
Smart Shopper and Wagons tc, eessage Boards
Does anyone know if the brake or accelerator pedals can be adjusted? If I move the seat so that the accelerator is fine, the brake pedal is too close and uncomforable to use. If I adjust to the brake, the accelerator is too far away. I asked the dealer, and they said the pedals are set at the factory and cannot be adjusted. Again, they are fine in our '03. Any suggestions?
the main page select Tires, then Survey Results. It's organized by tire types,
like performance, all-season, winter, etc.
She has a problem with the front doors not latching and flying open while driving. She also has trouble in a very small amount of snow. I can't understand why a fwd vehicle would have as much trouble as she is experiencing. Tires are new all season Kumho oem replacements
Any similar experiences and cures?
As for snow, the one thing that matters most is tires. It sounds like the Kuhmo's may not be the best in snow.
What year is your daughter's vehicle? When do the doors fly open - warm weather, cold weather, freezing weather? Does it happen even when the doors are locked? Does it happen when turning, stopping or what? Has the vehicle been in an accident?
How the car performs in the snow depends on many things. What Kumho tires are on the car (specific model)? What size?
Is the car an automatic or manual? How much driving experience has your daughter had in snow driving? What specifically is the problem - can't get going, can't stop, can't turn, or what? Are we dealing with a deep snow issue, light snow, or slush?
Give as much info as you can and you'll probably get more detailed responses. Good luck!
At purchase - water condensation in left rear tail light
At 4K miles (May 2002), ignition coil failure #1
At 8K miles (September 2002), ignition coil failure #2
At 18K miles (July 2003), acknowledgment of ignition coil defect and
replacement of all four ignition coils.
At 24K miles, (April 2004), cracked brake booster vacuum hose
At 28K miles, (this past Xmas eve), oil pump and camshaft driver failure.
We were told this latest problem was NOT covered under warranty because we did not have documentation of oil changes at 10K and 15K miles, even thought the last two oil changes at 18K and 24K were done at the dealer. Repair costs were estmated to start at $2300.
We traded in our Passat wagon for a new, non-VW car last night.
Link below for further info on oil sludge problem in Passats:
http://www.noln.net/tech/11-04/audi-vw.html
Happy New Year
klh
The ignition coil problem was well known and they fixed it.
Warning for anyone with a car under warranty-you should always keep maintenance records!
Did you call VW about the problems at 28K?
I've also got a 1999 GLS 1.8T with a manual transmission and other than normal maintenance I've only spent $100 on repairs in 50,000 miles.
VW builds great cars that are fun to drive. Buy the 2005 Passat.
Can someone enlighten me?
Also, why is there an on/off switch for this? Why would you ever want it off? Mileage?
If you haven't pressed the button and you see the light flashing while driving, it's actually being utilized by the car.
Even with gas at $2:35 a gallon I am looking forward to driving.
Any thoughts would be great.
Are you saying that the VW deaelr doesn't have 5w-40 oil available? They should, it's mandatory in 1.8T for 2005 and "recommended" for the 1.8T for older model years ("recommended" as in "we won't cover you under the sludge warranty if you don't use it"). The VW dealers that I've visited had Castrol 5w-40 in stock.
Many people report that Autozone Auto parts carries 0w-40 Mobil 1. NAPA Auto parts carries Valvoline Synpower 5w-40. Both are VW Spec 502.00 approved.
I'd switch to 5w-40 and see if that helps the consumption issue. Meanwhile, I'd keep a close eye on the oil level by checking it at least every other fuel fill.
On other Passat-specific forums on the web, there have been a number of threads concerning oil consumption with the v6 engine. Keep careful records of your oil changes and consumption (with a good paper trail of complaints with the dealer) in the event that you need to pursue an oil consumption test in the future.
VWoA seems to feel that anything less than 1 quart of oil consumed in 1,000 miles is acceptable (presumably to them, rather than the vehicle owner).
It has the LATCH system on either window seat (I don't think it has it in middle...I should check...but that's what VW said and I already had installed seat.)
I think I'll be able to reach over if absolutely necessary a little better with the baby in the right rear seat, but could see him better if he's behind driver's seat. (I have the mirror set up on the headrest.)
I'd love to hear what other moms are doing...thanks so much.
Leslie
(first baby arrives anytime in next 2-3 weeks
I'm a Dad, not a Mom. Anyway, after much thought, I placed our car seat in the rear right hand seat. The reason we did this is that in parallel parking situations, I didn't feel it was safe to be entering the car from the street side with our baby. Plus, it takes a little bit of time to make sure everything is secure and I see no reason for us to be sticking our, ahh, rears out into traffic for that amount of time when we could be much more safe on the sidewalk.
For visibility, I suggest those convex mirrors you see in the baby departments. They've worked great for us.
Congratulations on your first baby! Hope all goes well.
Thanks for the well-wishes!
Leslie