I've been a AAA member for a lot longer than I have owned the Subaru. Although I also carry the Subaru card in my wallet, when it came time to act, I just responded out of habit and pulled out the AAA card.
To answer the next question, I still own and drive a non-Subaru also, so can't cancel the AAA.
Yeah, this isn't the first time for me either. But I can't stand to carry around extra keys and stuff, so will have to resort to do-it-yourself or calling for assistance. This is the third time in 20 years I've been locked out with the engine running, although I claim responsibility for only two.
I did that last fall in Yellowstone. I had deliberately left the key switched to the accessory position because I was charging up a couple of batteries off an AC inverter plugged into the 12V outlet in the back. When I tried to lock the car with the remote it wouldn't. "Ah ha!" I thought, "very clever. But I'm more clever". So I flicked the door switch and shut the door. Locked. Great. But of course the remote wouldn't unlock the door either. Spare key 2,000 km away at home.
I too called AAA but they won't enter National Parks and put me through to the local guy with the contract. A wizened old geezer and his young sidekick struggled for over an hour with this massive car break-in kit of tools. He got his slim jim stuck in the door but eventually managed to get a long piece of wire around the window to *pull* at the door switch. It was only just above freezing and blowing a gale, none of us were happy campers by the end. I left with his slim jim still stuck in the door. He got it out later, when we'd all warmed up.
Wintergreen 00 OB, 26,000 km, single CD, Subaru/Hidden Hitch towing hitch, painted spoiler, tweeter kit, rear hatch grab bar and invisible plastic stick-on light protectors.
I believe the bare metal one is the valet key, this key won't open the glovebox and/or trunk so that when you have to leave your car you can lock the glove box and trunk while still allowing your car to be driven for parking garages. Theoretically you should get 2 black and 1 metal one.
I carry kayaks, not canoes - close enough, though.
I have Yakima crossbars - already had them, but had to buy new towers to fit the Subie side rails.
tie downs are always a problem, it seems. I just tie down in front through the grill. I figure that if the plastic breaks, it's cheaper to fix or replace that than it would be the bumper. If anyone has a better suggestion I'm open!
We got a master key (black plastic), a seconday key (metal), and a valet key (metal, can't open the glove box). Plus two remotes.
Congrats to Jane and Amy, and welcome.
2003 changes? Let's see if I recall from NY. Chrome trim rings around the speedo, new grille, new wheels for the GT, 2.5 GT model replaces GT and GT Ltd, auto has VTD and shiftronic on 2.5 GT only for now. Any more Bob?
Greetings-I have carried a 16 foot Old Town (58 lbs.) on the factory rack over the past couple of years. Once it's strapped in place, it works pretty well. There were certainly some creaks and groans when going over 60, but nothing too extreme. If I were going more than 50 miles away, I'd probably invest in the Yakima with the gunwale brackets.
eric - I think that's an "aha!" just went out to look for what you spoke of, & I think it would work. There's still the potential to bend or break the plastic bumper with the line, but still you have a sturdy tie-down spot, which is what we're looking for.
I have a 16' Dagger canoe that I have carried on the top of my Jeep Grand Cherokee for many years using the Thule system. This system does not require front or back tie downs. Between the two straps that go over the canoe and the way the system lodges the canoe between the front and back feet of the crossbars you get a great fit. I can rock the canoe and the whole car rocks with it. I had to buy new feet to attach the crossbars to the Outback's rails, but have not put them on yet. My only concern is that the distance between the crossbars is shorter on the Outback than it was on the Jeep, which will decrease the amount of "bow" of the canoe that is captured between the crossbar's strap guides front to back. Now that it is finally warming up in Ohio I will be putting the rack on soon to test it out. I'll let you know how it works.
canoeist ~ I never used to tie down my boats when I could have 5' plus between saddles, but w/ a Subie wagon you have 3'. With a 16'+ boat, I'd rather be safe than sorry! I've seen boats by the side of the road that pulled a whole rack system off the car - that cured me of not tying down!
Chuck, I have dealt with the service department at Kelly Subaru in Tallahassee once, when I took my 95 Legacy for her 60k service. Their work seemed ok, although they did suggest several services that were in addition to the standard 60k service. However, their salepersons do not seem to know Subarus too well.
An alternative is a service center that specializes in Japanese makes; I drive by there everyday and do see Subarus being serviced there. However, I do not believe they are authorized for warranty service (http://www.furrinauto.com)
Other alternatives is Pipkins motors in Valdosta, GA, about 1 hour away, which is a Subaru-VW dealer. There's also a dealer in Gainesville (2+ hours away) and Subaru of Jacksonville (2.5 hours).
With my previous Subie, I fortunately did not have to service it except for the regular oil change and interval maintenance (only 2 minor warranty visits to the dealer in 7 years). So in honesty, I have not dealt much with service centers. However, in talking to 3 dealerships (in Tally, Valdosta, and Jax), the folks in Jax seemed to know their stuff the best, from the owner (who actually works there), salespeople, and service department.
Good luck on your move to Tally (there are a few other Alaska transplants here, including my boss), and I hope you enjoy your so-to-be-acquired Bean!
I got 1 key with black plastic, one metal spare and one valet key. What bothers me though, and I plan to ask the dealer about it is there were no key tags with a number in case you need to have more keys made. The owner's manual says it's supposed to be there. I got the tag for my Toyota.
I drove my new beast home in the evening, since I had to go to work right after I took delivery. So next day, went out to the car to strip off the bits of plastic on the rear seat belt buckles, so my car looked like mine and not some dealer lot car.
Well, it was windy, so while in the back seat working, I shut the door. Imagine my surprise when I couldn't open it again! I tried the remote, nothing, messed with the lock, nothing... reached into the front seat for the master lock/unlock button, nothing. Fortunately, it then occurred to me to try the other rear door and that worked.
Turned out someone had set the childlock on that one rear door. Not having children, it sure caught ME off guard! And I'm not the body type to find climbing over front seats fun! Needless to say, I disabled that quickly upon my escape.
I appreciate your response about service. I was very concerned prior to my decision to purchase the Bean. I will be in a small coastal town in Franklin county and wondered "what if". Any non- american vehicle would have been a problem. I hate to travel several hours for regular service but living away from service areas has some disadvantages. I only talked to Tallahassee once and got the company line. I appreciate your time in talking about the dealers for me. I think the subie will be great in the muddy dirt logging roads near my place. Again, thanks for the time. As always, subaru owners seem to be most helpful. Does anyone know if I can spilt my routein services between dealers with no problem? If so, I could try each one at oil change time.. Chuck B.
Chuck: When you buy a new car your contract on the warranty is with Subaru, not the dealership where you pulled the trigger on the purchase. You are free to get service wherever you want. Sticking with one dealership sometimes makes it easier to maintain maintenance records, but you can do that yourself, too. Just set up a file folder for the history of your Subie's maintenance and repairs (if any). :-)
How is the vertical headlight aim adjustment accomplished on the 2002 Outback? I found the screw that seems to do the horizontal, but not the vertical. Also, no sign of a bubble level that I'm accustomed to seeing.
Local dealer ignored request to properly aim them on 2-week old car.
I just saw an ad in the local paper that said the 2003 Subarus are in. But I drove by the dealer and didn't see any. Has anyone seen any 2003 Outbacks on the road yet? Does anyone have pictures of the 2003? Any new colors this year? Have there been changes other than the ones mentioned here (new grille, chrome rings in dash, etc).?
The dealer's ad had pictures of Foresters and Outbacks with the header above the 2 vehicles saying, "The 2003s are here." Actually, all the dealers in the paper say the 2003s are here, but none say "2003 Foresters." I wonder if they snuck in the 2003 Outback or Legacy without much fanfare...I'll have to swing by tonight. I'd like to see if the 2003 Outback is different enough from the 2002 to justify spending more for it, since there are some great rebates on the 2002 Outback.
I own a Toyota which will not lock the doors when the key is in the ignition. Felt pretty good about how I would never be locked out of the car. That was until the time I removed the keys and placed them on the seat. The damn doors locks worked like a dream. :-(
Both cars now have hidden keys. I have only used the Subaru key twice but both times were in the same week! One of the times was in a snow storm on top of a ski hill. The only trick with using a magnetic key box, is to secure it with duct tape. That way it will still be there when you go looking for it.
God, I'm laughing now! You're right, there is not enough technology in this world that can prevent my acting like a boob. I've never tried a magnetic key box, always thinking that someone, somewhere, is watching as I cleverly hide it in place. Paranoid, me? No...
My wife and I do have an agreement that limits accidents and possible resulting acromony. The driver, and only the driver, has the responsibility to lock the doors when leaving the car. Passenger meekly gets out and closes the door, without hitting the lock button. Also saves arguments determining the fault when we (I) do get locked out. So far the record is me - at least 6, to her - zero! But I still claim one lockout was the fault of the (borrowed) car.
Since Satuday I've begun using the remote key fob to lock the doors, when previously I have depended on the button on the door. I guess as long as I have the remote in my hand, with key attached, I'll be OK.
Definitely - I always use the remote keyless. You even get the dome light at night to aid in dark areas. Once you lock it, the light fades slowly. Neat.
Also, unlock the doors with the keyless, the lights also come on. Once again you have lit entry in dark areas.
"I guess as long as I have the remote in my hand, with key attached, I'll be OK." Steve- =D You should be OK =D Don't leave the keys unattended in the car if your security system has passive arming.
For those who have their key and FOB separately, unless the setup has changed, the FOB [keyless entry] doesn't do you any good if you've locked yourself out of the car with the engine running.
I put a heavy-duty 2" receiver on my 97 OB - also mostly for bikes, but I may tow a utility trailer now & again. Parts & labor was $250, included the stinger & ball. For bikes only, you may very well be able to use the smaller (1"?) lighter-duty receiver, which I would guess is less.
I keep my key with my keyless entry fob. Never separated! So at least I can't lock myself out and with the key in the ignition, and suffer the indignity of the security system preventing my entry.
On the subject of using a key to get into the car, being the stubborn cuss that I am, I tried that when the car was new and still couldn't manage to open the door without the alarm going off. It seemed as if the alarm system needed to be disarmed using the security fob, and wasn't disarmed when using the key to unlock the door. Does anyone else find this, or am I also the victim of decaying memory (and the only one persisting with using the key)? I don't mind it this way, but just found it a bit disconcerting in the beginning.
I do like the lighting features that illuminate the car when using the fob, so have worked that into my habit. But still like to just press the door lock button to lock the doors when leaving the car. What did I say above - stubborn cuss? That's me.
Have I mentioned lately just how much I enjoy my Bean? Even the experience of getting locked out revealed so much that is good with the car.
Didn't think to look in the glove box, but I will. I'll probably ask when I'm up there on Friday to get the CD player and sundries installed if I don't see them in their tomorrow.
The 'standard' class I (& class II type?) that is permitted by Subaru is a 1.25" receiver. I bought the factory kit (slightly over $200 w/ 20% discount) and installed it myself. I use it for a class I utility trailer and a Rhode brand (by Bell) two bike rack. Wonderful addition, even if you just transport bikes. Far easier than lifting them up onto the roof.
The problem comes in if you need to transport more than two bikes. Even though they do sell 4 holder units for the small 1.25" receiver, they usually carry warnings about stability and max load capacity. The small square tube stock is just too thin for four 30lb bikes. Paul mentioned getting a 2" (class III) receiver. The 4 bike units made for this larger receiver are far better built - very heavy duty. But I have never seen a 2" receiver made for the current body OBW.
And I know that this is just my advanced paranoia, but as Subaru limits towing to class I status, you could set yourself up for some warranty problems if you did find one and had a hitch installed that supports way-over-the-limits towing. You would be on the defensive to show that you never used it for such.
Chuck: I'm glad to help. Since you'll be in Franklin county, you may also consider checking out Lee Subaru in Ft Walton Beach, west of where you'll be. I haven't talked to them before, but it can't be bad to spend the day at the beaches there (or in Jacksonville-they have loaners) while your Bean gets serviced.
The salesperson at Subaru of Jacksonville suggested that even if I don't take my Bean to the dealer for oil changes, I should go to the auto parts store (AutoZone, etc.) to get the proper oil filters for my Subie. He said that the generic ones don't always fit properly. Anyone have any experience with this?
The Class I receiver is 1 1/4", so you were close. ;-)
Gary: I haven't had to yet on our Legacy, and the Forester's different. Maybe it's self-leveling?
Amy: an oil filter study circulated a while back, and good filters included Purolater and Champion Labs. There were others, but I specifically remember those two.
Subaru uses a Purolator filter, so that would be one obvious choice. Champion used to sell them under the "Car & Driver" name at Target, but they were discontinued at stores near me. I cashed in - they had filters for just 40 cents each on clearance, so I bought a dozen! Woo hoo!
Hi all, I have been lurking on this board for quite some time and I have a question to pose: How many people use your dealer for routine maintenance (i.e. oil change, tire rotation..etc...)? I have a 2002 Outback H6 Sedan in wintergreen. The car has been flawless thus far and we are very pleased with it (actually, the car is my wife's.) I have always (for some reason unbeknownst to me) used the dealer for routine maintenance but I question if I really need to. My other car is a 2000 Lexus RX300 and I'm a little tired (and broke!) going to the dealer for just oil changes! I have posted on the Outback Sedan boards in the past, but the action here is unbelievable! Just wanted to say Hi to all and thanks in advance......Steve
Beats me why anyone would go to a dealer for an oil change and pay 3 times as much as at one of those quick lube places. The only exception might be if you have a brand new model which the the quickie guy might not have seen before. Or you have too much money.
I've been changing oil and filters for many years on all sorts of cars and never found a filter that didn't fit (unless I bought the wrong one). But filters are not equal in terms of their quality. I have an article at home which goes into this in great depth if anyone is interested.
But nowadays I only change the oil/filter on my TR8 and that's because I'm particular about the brand and type of filter & oil. Plus the damn thing is so low it won't go onto any lift or ramp!
Make sure you go to a reputable shop. I've heard of at least two cases of the quick places draining the trans fluid instead of the engine oil.
I do everything I can myself, it's much cheaper! I found oil filters on clearance for just 40 cents a pop and bought a dozen, and pay maybe another $5 for oil. So even the cheapest places cost 3-5 times as much, and I seriously doubt they torque the drain plug to spec and use a crush washer.
I tend to use dealers for auto service. For one thing, it is just down the road from my office so I can easily drop off the car for the day and walk to work. The Subaru dealer is a little farther away, but still within walking distance.
I've tried a lube/oil place that I liked, but their attention to detail drifted so haven't used them in the last two years. Service experience at other lube/oil places, and another dealer, has been TERRIBLE. So its really a question of finding a place I can trust.
I've done my own own changes, and still have a half full container in my garage, but have preferred to spend the money to have someone else do it in the last couple of years. Like Juice, I KNOW that I address the task with a greater level of detail than the average guy on the job, but my available time is steadily decreasing so I now depend on others.
My Bean comes with 3 years of free oil changes, so I will continue to use the dealer. Probably do all recommended regular service there too, although there is a Subaru-Only place nearby my home (in the opposite direction as my office) that warrants investigation.
To Brian/Goosegog: The oil filter article you mentioned -
Is this fairly recent? I've been looking for a current article like this. Does the article make recommendations for the top oil filter choices, etc. and if so, what brands do they recommend? --------------------
I change the oil in our Sube and Saab because they're both fairly easy. We used to take our former Ford Windstar to a couple different quickie places because the drain plug opened up right over a frame crossmember and it always resulted in a mess. Came back home once blowing out oil all over the drive because of a loose drain plug. Another time I opened the hood a week after an oil change and found the air cleaner housing totally opened up and flopping about because they lost the bolts. Idiots! Thus underlines the value of finding a good service provider if you elect to have it done.
My local Subaru dealers all charge $20 for an oil and filter change. I'd go to them before going to any quick oil change shops.
Me, I prefer to change the oil myself. Sure it takes more of my time, but I can always trust myself to drain, fill and torque properly. It also gives you an opportunity to check the lower engine area for any other potential problems. Changing oil on our Subarus is very easy. I'd recommend DIY to anyone.
I have been changing my oil for more cars than I care to count, My '02 Legacy is one of the easiest cars to change oil in. Filter is actually where you can see it and get a wrench on it and the oil drain is very convenient.
On my VWs, I would do all the service. Then Once I started my own business and family, I found a good indy service (time issues - and who wants to climb under 2 Vdubs every 3k for oil, valves & gaskets, timing, points, condenser and plugs - remember all that). the dealer we bought the GT at does 3yr/60k oil and 10%off other service & parts. So I go to them, even for the almost $400 30K service. Yeah, I figured, they want to do more than the service spec calls for but they take real good care if me and I want them to be around for the next 90K. (car and dealer)
Comments
BTW, I'm curious, why did you call AAA when the Subies now come with roadside assisstance?
Mark
To answer the next question, I still own and drive a non-Subaru also, so can't cancel the AAA.
Yeah, this isn't the first time for me either. But I can't stand to carry around extra keys and stuff, so will have to resort to do-it-yourself or calling for assistance. This is the third time in 20 years I've been locked out with the engine running, although I claim responsibility for only two.
Steve
I too called AAA but they won't enter National Parks and put me through to the local guy with the contract. A wizened old geezer and his young sidekick struggled for over an hour with this massive car break-in kit of tools. He got his slim jim stuck in the door but eventually managed to get a long piece of wire around the window to *pull* at the door switch. It was only just above freezing and blowing a gale, none of us were happy campers by the end. I left with his slim jim still stuck in the door. He got it out later, when we'd all warmed up.
Wintergreen 00 OB, 26,000 km, single CD, Subaru/Hidden Hitch towing hitch, painted spoiler, tweeter kit, rear hatch grab bar and invisible plastic stick-on light protectors.
-mike
I carry kayaks, not canoes - close enough, though.
I have Yakima crossbars - already had them, but had to buy new towers to fit the Subie side rails.
tie downs are always a problem, it seems. I just tie down in front through the grill. I figure that if the plastic breaks, it's cheaper to fix or replace that than it would be the bumper. If anyone has a better suggestion I'm open!
Jillian
Congrats to Jane and Amy, and welcome.
2003 changes? Let's see if I recall from NY. Chrome trim rings around the speedo, new grille, new wheels for the GT, 2.5 GT model replaces GT and GT Ltd, auto has VTD and shiftronic on 2.5 GT only for now. Any more Bob?
-juice
Bob
Eric (Old Town Tripper)
Thanks!
Jillian
Jillian
An alternative is a service center that specializes in Japanese makes; I drive by there everyday and do see Subarus being serviced there. However, I do not believe they are authorized for warranty service (http://www.furrinauto.com)
Other alternatives is Pipkins motors in Valdosta, GA, about 1 hour away, which is a Subaru-VW dealer. There's also a dealer in Gainesville (2+ hours away) and Subaru of Jacksonville (2.5 hours).
With my previous Subie, I fortunately did not have to service it except for the regular oil change and interval maintenance (only 2 minor warranty visits to the dealer in 7 years). So in honesty, I have not dealt much with service centers. However, in talking to 3 dealerships (in Tally, Valdosta, and Jax), the folks in Jax seemed to know their stuff the best, from the owner (who actually works there), salespeople, and service department.
Good luck on your move to Tally (there are a few other Alaska transplants here, including my boss), and I hope you enjoy your so-to-be-acquired Bean!
Somewhat minor, but seemed odd to me.
Well, it was windy, so while in the back seat working, I shut the door. Imagine my surprise when I couldn't open it again! I tried the remote, nothing, messed with the lock, nothing... reached into the front seat for the master lock/unlock button, nothing. Fortunately, it then occurred to me to try the other rear door and that worked.
Turned out someone had set the childlock on that one rear door. Not having children, it sure caught ME off guard! And I'm not the body type to find climbing over front seats fun! Needless to say, I disabled that quickly upon my escape.
But I sure felt like an idiot for a bit there!
Chuck B.
Steve
-juice
Local dealer ignored request to properly aim them on 2-week old car.
Has anyone seen any 2003 Outbacks on the road yet? Does anyone have pictures of the 2003? Any new colors this year? Have there been changes other than the ones mentioned here (new grille, chrome rings in dash, etc).?
-mike
-juice
Actually, all the dealers in the paper say the 2003s are here, but none say "2003 Foresters." I wonder if they snuck in the 2003 Outback or Legacy without much fanfare...I'll have to swing by tonight.
I'd like to see if the 2003 Outback is different enough from the 2002 to justify spending more for it, since there are some great rebates on the 2002 Outback.
Both cars now have hidden keys. I have only used the Subaru key twice but both times were in the same week! One of the times was in a snow storm on top of a ski hill. The only trick with using a magnetic key box, is to secure it with duct tape. That way it will still be there when you go looking for it.
Cheers,
Tom
My wife and I do have an agreement that limits accidents and possible resulting acromony. The driver, and only the driver, has the responsibility to lock the doors when leaving the car. Passenger meekly gets out and closes the door, without hitting the lock button. Also saves arguments determining the fault when we (I) do get locked out. So far the record is me - at least 6, to her - zero! But I still claim one lockout was the fault of the (borrowed) car.
Since Satuday I've begun using the remote key fob to lock the doors, when previously I have depended on the button on the door. I guess as long as I have the remote in my hand, with key attached, I'll be OK.
Steve
-mike
Also, unlock the doors with the keyless, the lights also come on. Once again you have lit entry in dark areas.
-juice
Steve-
=D You should be OK =D
Don't leave the keys unattended in the car if your security system has passive arming.
For those who have their key and FOB separately, unless the setup has changed, the FOB [keyless entry] doesn't do you any good if you've locked yourself out of the car with the engine running.
-Dave
Cheers!
Paul
On the subject of using a key to get into the car, being the stubborn cuss that I am, I tried that when the car was new and still couldn't manage to open the door without the alarm going off. It seemed as if the alarm system needed to be disarmed using the security fob, and wasn't disarmed when using the key to unlock the door. Does anyone else find this, or am I also the victim of decaying memory (and the only one persisting with using the key)? I don't mind it this way, but just found it a bit disconcerting in the beginning.
I do like the lighting features that illuminate the car when using the fob, so have worked that into my habit. But still like to just press the door lock button to lock the doors when leaving the car. What did I say above - stubborn cuss? That's me.
Have I mentioned lately just how much I enjoy my Bean? Even the experience of getting locked out revealed so much that is good with the car.
Steve
Thanks for the idea,
Cynthia
The problem comes in if you need to transport more than two bikes. Even though they do sell 4 holder units for the small 1.25" receiver, they usually carry warnings about stability and max load capacity. The small square tube stock is just too thin for four 30lb bikes. Paul mentioned getting a 2" (class III) receiver. The 4 bike units made for this larger receiver are far better built - very heavy duty. But I have never seen a 2" receiver made for the current body OBW.
And I know that this is just my advanced paranoia, but as Subaru limits towing to class I status, you could set yourself up for some warranty problems if you did find one and had a hitch installed that supports way-over-the-limits towing. You would be on the defensive to show that you never used it for such.
Steve
http://www.thehitch.com/Page_2.html
Your local trailer supply place might even stock them, or if you buy from an on-line merchant they might even have something similar.
The salesperson at Subaru of Jacksonville suggested that even if I don't take my Bean to the dealer for oil changes, I should go to the auto parts store (AutoZone, etc.) to get the proper oil filters for my Subie. He said that the generic ones don't always fit properly. Anyone have any experience with this?
--Amy
Gary: I haven't had to yet on our Legacy, and the Forester's different. Maybe it's self-leveling?
Amy: an oil filter study circulated a while back, and good filters included Purolater and Champion Labs. There were others, but I specifically remember those two.
Subaru uses a Purolator filter, so that would be one obvious choice. Champion used to sell them under the "Car & Driver" name at Target, but they were discontinued at stores near me. I cashed in - they had filters for just 40 cents each on clearance, so I bought a dozen! Woo hoo!
Don't forget a 17mm crush washer.
-juice
Steve
I've been changing oil and filters for many years on all sorts of cars and never found a filter that didn't fit (unless I bought the wrong one). But filters are not equal in terms of their quality. I have an article at home which goes into this in great depth if anyone is interested.
But nowadays I only change the oil/filter on my TR8 and that's because I'm particular about the brand and type of filter & oil. Plus the damn thing is so low it won't go onto any lift or ramp!
I do everything I can myself, it's much cheaper! I found oil filters on clearance for just 40 cents a pop and bought a dozen, and pay maybe another $5 for oil. So even the cheapest places cost 3-5 times as much, and I seriously doubt they torque the drain plug to spec and use a crush washer.
-juice
I've tried a lube/oil place that I liked, but their attention to detail drifted so haven't used them in the last two years. Service experience at other lube/oil places, and another dealer, has been TERRIBLE. So its really a question of finding a place I can trust.
I've done my own own changes, and still have a half full container in my garage, but have preferred to spend the money to have someone else do it in the last couple of years. Like Juice, I KNOW that I address the task with a greater level of detail than the average guy on the job, but my available time is steadily decreasing so I now depend on others.
My Bean comes with 3 years of free oil changes, so I will continue to use the dealer. Probably do all recommended regular service there too, although there is a Subaru-Only place nearby my home (in the opposite direction as my office) that warrants investigation.
ffsteve
-mike
-juice
Is this fairly recent? I've been looking for a current article like this. Does the article make recommendations for the top oil filter choices, etc. and if so, what brands do they recommend?
--------------------
I change the oil in our Sube and Saab because they're both fairly easy. We used to take our former Ford Windstar to a couple different quickie places because the drain plug opened up right over a frame crossmember and it always resulted in a mess. Came back home once blowing out oil all over the drive because of a loose drain plug. Another time I opened the hood a week after an oil change and found the air cleaner housing totally opened up and flopping about because they lost the bolts. Idiots! Thus underlines the value of finding a good service provider if you elect to have it done.
My local Subaru dealers all charge $20 for an oil and filter change. I'd go to them before going to any quick oil change shops.
Me, I prefer to change the oil myself. Sure it takes more of my time, but I can always trust myself to drain, fill and torque properly. It also gives you an opportunity to check the lower engine area for any other potential problems. Changing oil on our Subarus is very easy. I'd recommend DIY to anyone.
Ken
Is this a good idea, or just extra expense?
I can afford it if it's a good idea. And I would like this car to last!
I didn't do anything like this on the old Camry, but then again, her engine did start to burn a little oil when she got old.