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Comments
See you around!
Julie
Also, which major chains provide oil changes with Mobil 1? I would be glad to do it myself but need receipts for warranty.
I plan to do 7500 miles intervals (city and highway) with synthetic vs. current 4000-5000 miles on dino (SL) oil.
Anybody did oil analysis with either mineral or synthetic oil in Subaru?
My oil anxiety started when I bought 2003 Toyota Corolla and learned about Toyota sludge problems (not in Corollas though).
After maaany hours of researching engine lubrication issues, I realized how complicated and “slippery” this subject is ;-)
bit
Alland
What I am trying to say in my usual convoluted way is, If Subaru installs variable intermittent wipers on some models, and non-variable on others, wouldn't the overall cost of just installing the better spec part be so small it's not worth the hassle of having two separate spec parts?
I always wondered how a small manufacturer like Subaru can justify building so many variations on cars they sell all over the world. Why do they produce 2 separate front fenders for the Impreza,(actually 4, - 2 for the wagon and 2 for the sedan) one with the indent and cut-out for a side flasher for the rest of the world (just ahead of the front door) and another without the indent and cut-out for the US market? Those flashers aren't illegal here so why not just include them? The old Impreza had them.
Why do they produce Imprezas with rear drum brakes? The WRX, and RS and most Legacys have 4 wheel disks, yet they put rear drums on the OBS and TS wagon. Wouldn't the added cost of producing 4 wheel disks on all Imprezas be so small as to be not worth the hassle of producing, stocking and shipping 2 separate parts? It just cheepens the brand. I'd be glad to pay another $50 per car for 4 wheel disks. I bet the cost is less than that.
So I stumble across this ad in the paper, 1995 Legacy Wagon 5sp "fair condition means you get it below book at $12,500". Needless to say I called to see if they're a candidate for the "Dream-On Prices" BB or if there's a typo, maybe... Sure enough, they're asking $1k, and the darned thing needs a valve job... which their friendly mechanic at the Mobil station will do for $2k -- ouch. So they need to say bye-bye to it, and I'm thinking this'd make a great winter beater.
Plus they said they had a dog, and my 3yr-old LOVES dogs, and they live a mile from here, so what the heck, we went and looked at it. Big mistake; i kinda like it.
The nitty-gritty: It's got matching dents in the frt bumper, a little scrape here & there, it's red, it's got 146k miles, and yeah, the compression IS lousy and it does need a valve job (how do I know it isn't rings?), cuz it died on me once before it warmed up. Also, the interior is pretty chewed up (literally: Dachshund), the tires are totally warn out, and the seat is ripped, and if it weren't 21 degrees this fine morning, it woulda smelled like dog I just know it.. the pass side mirror is duct-taped together from ripping it off in the garage, you get the idea. ALso, the check-engine light is on permanently and they don't know why, and neither does the dealer; they think a valve job might fix it, and I'm thinking what does compression have to do with emissions??? It would have to be really bad, and the darned thing runs like a bat out of hell... they say the AC works, and I believe them....
They are very nice people, they don't know from cars, but they know to change the oil, and they have realistic ideas on price... so what say you?
Just buy it and drive it as a winter beater and not worry about all the "stuff" on it? Once it gets warm again, the dog smell is probably the killer, but if I get it for <$1, i'll probably get my money back at least... it needs a good vacuum, a coupla seat covers, and some black tape over the MIL, and would last me through the winter, no?
Or do it right; what am I looking at for the valve job -- anybody have a feel for it? $2k sounds high, but I really don't know... then get a smart tech to figure out the MIL if they can... Unfortunately this puppy is OBD-II, and the first year no less, so there is a good chance the light will just stay on... once everything is fixed, it's prbably still a $1k car....
Whaddayathink?
TIA -Mathias (East Lansing, MI)
a side question: to all long time subaru owners - does the frame less windows pose any problems as the car ages?
You don't mention what you're currently driving, so this is a little tougher. But overall I think the concept of a "winter beater" is more promising than the reality of doing it.
The idea of having a 2nd car just for winter is founded in economics - to reduce damage from salt to your main car. But my past experience (lived in Michigan's salty climate for many years and had winter beaters) did not bear it out. By the time you spend enough money on this car to make it safe to drive during harsh weather, you'll have spent some coin (and you actually don't know how much this will be until it's opened up - a gamble). Then add plates, registration, insurance and normal wear and tear on the beater, PLUS the depreciation happening to your main car while it sits to get a feel for the actual economics of it.
Then there's the intangibles. You're basically parking a nicer and safer car to drive a less reliable vehicle during the most dangerous time of the year.
I think the theory of this approach does not bear out in reality.
IdahoDoug
Sometimes the only reason to have two systems is to differentiate between the models. Marketing over the bean counters.
Jim
Greg
No, it's not just you, it's us
Cheers!
Paul
I like the design, it adds a touch of sophistication to the car.
I have had no problems with them, a slight bit of wind noise on the driver side and literally 3 drops of water in the carwash. Heavy rain poses no problem. No water at all on the passenger or rear windows (Driver door is used the most)
All said and done, I think you will have few, if any problems with a frameless window during the span of 10 years.
Ciao for now
Does anyone have any oil-seal issues when you've 'converted' over to synthetic?
Mike
* my gas mileage was very good, above average at 25mpg
* it was sort of late, at 36k, when I seriously considered it
* it burns no dino oil, it's still full the day I change it
* unnecessary cost
Hi Julie, welcome and congrats. We drove a Bean and I sometimes wish my wife and I had sprung for that instead of our Legacy L.
We have a chat every Thursday, there is a link at the top of this page. Also join the Subaru Crew - Meet the Members topic, which is a good starting point.
nine51: I agree, Subaru has too many models with way too many variations. There are 4 Outback wagon models, for instance. Two would be enough.
I even think the H6 should be standard, one base cloth model and one Limited leather/moonroof model is plenty. Let the L use the 2.5l, and the GT should get a turbo, for differntiation.
Plus, why three different AWD systems? Standardize on VTD.
Beater. Hmm, I like the concept. But if the car was that badly neglected, is it a good candidate? Ideally YOU should be the one to beat it up. Looks like that baby needs serious pampering and attention, not what you want in a beater.
Even though I use the term loosely, my "beater" is a 1993 Miata. I never even lock the doors. The Subaru gets the carport, while the Miata suffers unsheltered. But I bought it with low miles and in good condition. So far all I've done is routing maintenance, so it can be ignored and still start and run reliably every day, even though it's a decade old. It's more of a summer beater, but I guess my point is you want something that runs well now and is reliable.
Frameless doors are fine. Integras had them. So do Porsche 911 turbos and BMW M3s.
I use a 1300 psi pressure washer to wash my cars. The Subies do very well, though the Miata leaks. Even then, it's leaking at a joint where the top folds. The rest of the frameless seal actually works well.
-juice
tidester, host
I hear a hissing sound in the passenger compartment.
Is this normal?
Thanks.
Unless you have algae and moss growing out from the body panels, I wouldn't recommend using a pressure washer.
I find that after a good hand wash I use a jet attachment for the hose and make sure the soap is all off. Try to use a car soap if you can as opposed to a dish detergent.
After washing, I give it a drive to let it feel the breeze and dry off a bit.
You can tell it seems I think my car has some feelings. It almost smiles with the front grille when clean.
Anyway, I really am nor crazy, honest.
Jon
It is time for an exorcism - you have a demon hiding in your dash!!
Seriously, you are probably just hearing the expansion valve adjust the flow of liquid freon into the evaporator core. When the compressor runs, the pressure behind the valve shoots up. The valve opens, spraying compressed liquid into the "radiator" within the dash ducting. The liquid picks up warmth from air blowing past it (inside the car), and evaporates to a gas. This absorbs heat, cooling the core, which provides you with cool vent air.
Depending on the dash design, you hear it more on some cars. I remember hearing some on my '02 OB.
Steve
Steve
My pressure washer has a detergent dispenser. Nice thing is it spreads a bubbly film all over the car.
So first I rinse the whole thing, including the undercarraige. Then I spread detergent evenly. Then I go over it with a wool mitt by hand. Finally, I rinse off.
I adjust the nozzle so it's not using *that* much pressure, of course. The stuff works great on the unpainted cladding. It's clean even after just rinsing it.
-juice
He loved that car, though I have no idea why. White vinyl seats, gas guzzler, awful handling, terrible snow traction.
-juice
Steve
Subaru of America, Inc. has determined that a defect that relates to
motor vehicle safety may exist in your vehicle. Your vehicle may have
been produced with an improperly manufactured transmission parking rod.
When the transmission selector lever is placed in the "P" (Park)
position, the transmission park mechanism that is intended to hold your
vehicle may not engage.
Should the transmission park mechanism fail to immediately engage when
the transmission selector lever is placed in the "P" (Park) position,
your vehicle may move/roll without prior warning. This could result in
personal injury or property damage.
To ensure your vehicle remains stationary while parked, always engage
the parking brake. Properly applying the parking brake will ensure your
vehicle remains stationary while parked, even if this condition does
exist on your vehicle. This is always recommended and is particularly
important at this time.
In the interest of safety, Subaru is sending this notice to you before
repair parts are available. Repair parts are scheduled to arrive at
Subaru Dealers in January 2003. Subaru will send you a second email,
and
you'll also receive notification via first class US mail, when repair
parts become available. At that time, Subaru will install a new
transmission parking rod and related parts at no cost to you.
Your continued satisfaction with your Subaru is important to us. Please
understand that we have taken this action in the interest of your
safety
and your vehicle's proper operation. We sincerely apologize for any
inconvenience this matter may cause and urge you to schedule an
appointment with your Subaru dealer when you are notified that repair
parts are available.
You can access your personal web site at http://my.subaru.com
For further information and frequently asked questions regarding this
recall, visit http://my.subaru.com/public/wwk94/faq.jsp
Thank you for choosing Subaru.
Sincerely,
Subaru of America, Inc.
-mike
-mike
-juice
Mark
Thanks
A few nights ago we got called out for a lost young hunter and most of my fears were alleviated.
There was snow on the dirt access roads we were searching in the higher areas and the command post was established on a saddle where several of these came together. I completed my sector and reported to the CP for another at about 3am. The deputy was not our normal CP commander, and I requested an area I thought likely which he agreed to. About 10 minutes after I left, I was listening to chatter on the radio that the area I was heading to had a surprising amount of snow and there were large patches of ice. A little later another team heading into the area from another direction turned back after encountering this. Following this, the CP called me and suggested I turn around since I was "in a car" that would have trouble. Heh.
I seemed to have trouble getting reception in the valley, so I did not respond as I'd felt from the beginning that these exact conditions were likely to be the reason our hunter was missing - probably slid off the trail. I also had confidence in the Sube's AWD and my brand new Michelin Arctic Alpins.
Encountering the first slippery spot, I made a point of stomping the brakes, flooring it and generally driving sloppily to test my traction. I was favorably impressed and continued on. There were a couple of locations where the snow depth became an issue, but the Sube never missed a beat despite dragging the floor at times. I have lived all my life in snow country, so trust my judgement in these matters, keeping in mind that the worst thing I could do for the victim would be to get stuck and divert resources to rescue me.
I cleared the entire area over a 90 minute period without seeing the victim's truck or any indication he'd slid off the road. Upon arrival back at the CP via another direction (big loop), I pulled up and let them know the sector was clear. Several of my buddies on the Team were standing around with their trucks and SUVs parked, knowing grins on their faces while the substitute deputy quietly ate crow. I found out later he'd been talking to my buddies about sending a rescue vehicle to look for me, but they all resisted this as a waste and assured him I'd be back just fine.
So, the Sube proved itself well. I also got to rib everyone when the search appeared likely to continue all night. I'd folded the seats down and spread a sleeping bag in back with my gear along one side of the cargo area. When the continued search was announced, I let everyone know that I was going to catch a nap all stretched out in my Sube while they sat cramped in their crew cabs. Heh..
I'm sure when the snow gets deeper I'll have to switch to the Cruiser, but it was a bit of fun for me this time.
IdahoDoug
--jay
While back east last week, I noted that AutoZone now carries an STP brand air filter (SA9113) that fits the H4 - saw one in the flesh, and it matched my recollection of the OEM filter. Also noted that Fram now lists a CA9113, although I don't think it's actually made it into the stores just yet. Both were around $10.
I always switch filters more frequently than recommended, so this was a pleasant discovery.
Cheers from (briefly) sunny Seattle,
Ken M.
Cool, Ken, good to know. Thanks for sharing part numbers.
-juice
And Ken - thanks....
Steve
Jim
-mike
IdahoDoug
On a side note, I sat in a '99 TLC with 73K miles. If I hadn't just bought my SVX, I would have traded in the Trooper on it in a heartbeat. Not that the Trooper isn't great, but the TLC was basically like a larger more powerful version of my Trooper! Definitely will be looking at a used one in a few years once the Trooper is paid off! Might opt for a '97 with F+R locking diffys though. But the V8 was nice
-mike
In my case my 2001 with AT is not affected because it was manufactured in October 2000. They didn't mention how exactly the fix will be done.
--jay
paisan: too bad we can't order UN-spec diesel Land Cruisers, with vinyl seats and 5 speed manual trannies!
-juice
-mike
You should have seen how quiet that thing was inside. Like a tomb. Outside the diesel rattled like a giant pager on vibrate! Good insulation.
-juice
You should forward Doug's story to SOA's marketing department. It would make a great 30 second commercial for the Outback! And it is a real storyline!
Ralph
You can't get the inserts alone - it's the whole blade. For $3.75 (libertysubaru) it's a true bargain (and another reminder why I didn't take the leap to a luxury nameplate where wipers go for $30.+)!
Ralph
-juice