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Subaru Legacy/Outback



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    The list as indicated by its name is made up of GT owners. Not a lot of traffic but what there is comes from knowledgeable enthusiasts. There is an archive but you have to be a member to access it.

  • bit,
    thanks for the response. It seems to do it more when turning right, but I've experienced it in both directions.

    the car has 1700 miles, so it's still pretty new. I got the oil changed at 1000.

  • francophilefrancophile Posts: 667
    Steering: get the alignment checked, front AND rear.

    Mileage: give the car another few thousand miles to loosen up. Subies are famous for being "tight" when new. My mileage improved 2MPG after 7K miles or so, and the shifting is much less notchy too.

  • kmcleankmclean Posts: 173
    Greg -

    I picked up a tidbit from the Maxima board (I own a 2000 OB Ltd wagon and a '97 Maxima SE) - a fellow with a Max had a leaking problem like yours. The Max moonroof both pops up at the back, or slides back into the roof, as I believe yours does. Turns out that despite the apparent "tight seal" of moon roofs, they are actually expected to let some water get in - and there is a drain system (at the four corners on the Max) in the housing frame that lets the water drain out. This fellow's problem was that somehow one or two of the drains had become blocked with some kind of "crud" (parks under trees that drop seeds, etc.?) that had accumulated over time. As your car is new, there's likely another explanation, but it's worth checking out (perhaps the drains were blocked with paint?).

    Good luck, let me know what the answer is.

    And to all - a happy (and safe) fourth from the Pacific Northwest!


    Ken M.
  • Interesting about those drains. Never heard of it before but it makes sense. Have to check it out. Thanks for posting that info.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    1700 miles is still very green. Let her loosen up and you'll probably improve to about 20mpg. My Forester improved by a good 2mpg once it had 15k miles.

    I've seen better on the 2.5l, but that's acceptable for a mid-size AWD automatic wagon. At least it's regular fuel.

  • ddtyddty Posts: 12
    My $26k LAB came only with all standards.
    It does include 4 tires, Greg. -:( 4 Firestones. -:)
    So far, it works well, except for its 'native' brake noise when driving backward. The dealership service man told me the correction will soon be available from Subaru. It doesn't hurt anything except for your ear, maybe.
    I bought the car from Kirkland Nissan&Subaru, Washington. The sales person is John Simon.
  • sbennett1sbennett1 Posts: 3
    thanks for your response. I was advised by a subaru tech to turn off the a/c and run the vent for a few minutes before turning the car off. frankly, i don't think that's what one should have to do with a brand new car and i can't tell you how badly the vent stinks after the a/c is turned off!!! i have to then open the windows and hold my breath. your comment about the puddling was right on target for me because i have been saying for weeks that i don't see the normal puddles under the car after the a/c is used and i suspected a faulty evaporator. of course, the dealer's service people never looked into this and acted like i was imagining the odors, so they just sprayed a "fungicide" into the system. i will be going back for round two shortly, but i will demand that they now look at the evaporator and the conpressor to ensure that they are not defective. thanks again.
  • johnmeijohnmei Posts: 44
    OK you folks who have been lamenting that there isn't a pop-up camper made for the Outback Wagon. Well, NOW there is one. See hit floorplans and look at the last one listed the "ltw". Looks pretty neat. When you get to the "ltw" floorplan, click on it and you will see a photo of an Outback Wagon with it.

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    my 98 GT has started to have this incredibly loud high pitched squeak, comes on after you brak and then you release it. I thought it was the pads going and took it in , of course it was just fine when it was there and the pads were great too. Seems to occur more when its very hot or you've had your foot on the brake a long time like in traffic etc. Is the caliper not releasing? Anyone come across this, the guy I brought it to is a very good mechanic, he thought it was just the semi metallic pads acting up.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sue: I'd say a few seconds, rather than a few minutes. It's been a HOT summer around here and I'd melt if I had to turn off the A/C for that long! :-)

    It's noisy when you release it? Sound like something is sticking.

    That LTW camper looks like fun. I prefer my trusty tent and an air mattress, though.

  • mtnshoppermtnshopper Posts: 58
    I just took a trip with a Coleman thermoelectric cooler/warmer in the back of my LL Bean. It did a good job. I put some frozen chicken in it when I left and 10 hours later it was still frozen. And soda pop stayed cold. I wanted to buy the Igloo cooler, but went with the Coleman because Wal-Mart had the best price and included the 110 V adapter as a bonus. I saw the same Coleman cooler for the same price or higher at some camping supply stores, but the 110 V adapter was not included. It sells separately for 40 bucks, so it was a good deal at Wal-Mart. With the adapter, you can plug the cooler in at home and let it cool down for several hours before putting it in your car. That is what Coleman recommends. The cooler instructions said not to leave the cooler plugged in when your car is parked for very long, or it will drain the battery. But the motor on my cooler did not run when I plugged it into the power outlet, until I turned the car on. The motor noise did not bother me while driving, but one of my co-workers bought the same cooler and returned it because she said it was too noisy.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool, Becky. (pardon the pun...)

    The Subaru one is pricey. Even a wholesaler recommended I shop elsewhere.

  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    The Chalet LTW ( is a nice a-frame camping trailer for two people. One of the owners of Chalet told me that they had developed the LTW with the Subaru Outback in mind. Dry weight is about 1000 lbs. w/o options. Chalet dealers are mostly in the western half of the U.S. Another option for those of you on the east coast is Aliner's Sportliner model (

    The biggest problem I saw with the LTW is lack of storage space when you add many options. It's also kind of expensive compared to Chalet's bigger (& heavier) Alpine model which comes with more standard items.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    My wife and I have always used a tent, but with two little girls are thinking of upgrading a bit to a camper. Anybody out there using a Starcraft or Jayco tentcamper? They both appear to have small ones that will fit the Outbacks 2000 towing limit.
  • tew2tew2 Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced a problem with their hatch back closing but not locking? I have a '01 Legacy wagon. The hatch back has only locked on a hit and miss basis. I could slam it or lightly close it with varying results. Sometimes it would lock and sometimes it wouldn't since I purchased the car new last September. Now, the door won't lock at all. I can't get an appointment at my local Subaru dealer until a week from Friday and am quite frustrated since I can't lock my car. I am not sure whether there is a problem with the locking mechanism or the indicator that shows that the hatch is open or closed. I'd appreciate feedback if anyone else has had this problem and how it was resolved.
  • pduboispdubois Posts: 73

    I had the very same problem with my OB when I got it. It would not lock and the light was on on the dash. I took it to the dealer without an appointment and they adjusted the latch right away (takes only a few minutes) and since then, no problem any more. There is an adjustment screw on one side of the latch. You need to remove the plastic at the bottom of the gate opening to access it. This plastic panel is held in place by clips. Be very careful when removing it, the small plastic tabs which go into the clips break easily...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Jay: wow, my wife asked me to upgrade to a Holiday Inn! :-) Especially with our daughter, she's not the type that likes to rough it.

    Tracy: my rear hatch takes a good slam to close. Drop it from about a foot or two away and it does not close completely. Is that the same problem you have?

    First, push the rubber liner forward, if you have one, and out of the way. That's usually it. Then ask your dealer to adjust the latch so it's easier to apply.

    I've never been back to a dealership so I have not had it adjusted. Guess it never bothered me much.

  • hupperthuppert Posts: 4
    Just bought 98 Outback wagon off lease with 48k w/CD, winter package and automatic for $15k. Went with leasee, who we knew, to dealer and wrote dealer the check. Love it (1st Subaru) and have found only one minor problem. Both remote doorlock controls (on keychain) only open the driver's door. Minor inconvenience but I am wondering if there is a simple fix. Thanks!
  • smokeybaersmokeybaer Posts: 38
    Pressing the open button on the fob once only opens the drivers door. You must press it a second time to open all the other locks. Hope this works.

  • hupperthuppert Posts: 4
    Warren, I failed to mention that we pushed the fob twice (as on our GM car) and neither remote fob unlocks the passenger doors. Thanks for your input. It appears that it will require service but we will wait till it needs something more major. We really like it and are getting just under 25 mpg with 90% highway driving and 75 mph on the interstates in Michigan.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    image 6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Try holding the button down for a while. That's how it works on my Forester (also a 98).

  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    try opening up the fobs and cleaning the metal contacts for each of the buttons. a pencil eraser usually works well for this - just 'erase' any grime on the contacts.

    maybe try a new battery for them too - especially if they're the original ones.

  • 20llbean20llbean Posts: 83
    Well my 2001 LLbean just passed the breakin period of 1K miles. The gas mileage was a bit low but considering that I followed the breakin period instructions, with the varying speed and such, I expected not to get the max mpg. It averaged out to about 22 MPG with the premium fuels getting higher MPG (?), don't know why but that was the case. Also, we have just gotten out of heat wave on the east coast so this car was driven around with the A/C on most of the time. I purchased the Subaru cargo basket for the top and when installed it does restrict the airflow considerabley so that adds to the lower mpg. Overall, it is outstanding and my wife gets to drive it and the kids think it is the best car they have every been in! My last new car was a 1991 Ford and it was no where near the Outback in the initial ownership. The Plus and minus are listed below:


    1. Handling is great, as good as my V6 Honda accord.
    2. Room is good, though one may think it is small from the outside, just get in and feel the room.
    3. Comfort is very good, leather seats feel good though they are hot in the summer as expected.
    4. Engine is powerful, I just passed the 4K rpms today's as I passed the breakin period. The speed was at 85 MPH ( on the highway) and still feels like there is a considerable amount of power still left.
    5. Sound system is good (not great) and more then sufficient for me.
    6. The two sunroofs are excellent.
    7. As expected, car is very tight.

    1. MPG average around 22.
    2. Acceleration is average which can create a problem when darting out of traffic such as a highway. It certainly is not on par with my Accord V6 acceleration. But then again, it isn't supposed to be!
    3. 6 Disc CD changer. Had to get this removed after 2 weeks as one disk refused to come out then, the whole unit refused to play a disk. First recall, I am not a fan of in dash 6 disc changers as then are more prone to failure then the cartridge type units in trunk or under a seat.
    4. Driver power seat adjustments: could use more space for a man's arm the adjust the controls. I'm 6' 205 lbs, and my arm hits the door.

    One question: Has anyone had these vehicles in the sand and can you relate your experiences such as tire pressure, sand depth, and overall driveability. Thanks.
  • evilizardevilizard Posts: 195
    I had the same problem with my 96. At first I though it was a problem with the security system but it turned out to be a switch inside the door, about $90 to fix.

    Try this, get inside the car, lock the door. Now manually unlock the door. Do the rest of the doors unlock? Try it from the outside with the key (with sec system disarmed). If you have problems here then it is probably the switch.

    If this works then its probably something with your sec system
  • evilizardevilizard Posts: 195
    I took my 96 H-4 in the sand once. A trip to Mustang Island near Corpus Christi TX. 4 people + camping gear.

    The sand conditions were not good 18 inch deep light powder superfine sand. If it was snow it would have been skiers heaven. It wasn't. Walking in the stuff you sink in past your ankle.

    Tire pressure was not something I knew about. I had them at 30. 10-15 would work much better.

    Handling was not very good. The main reason being the 18" ruts that we constantly had to go across. The lack of ground clearence was a factor. It felt a lot like driving a boat. We got stuck once because of the lack of ground clearence. You essentially plow your way through that sand and once time we slowed down a little too much and high centered. That 4wd has great traction but it doesn't do any good if the wheels are not touching the ground. Took around an hour to dig the car down.

    Gas milage sucked bad, maybe 7mpg because your plowing so much sand.

    I had the front and rear undergaurds. If your going to be going through sand that exceeds your ground clearence you might want to remove that plastic undershield. I doubt that it is going to survive being dragged through the sand and being struck by the occasional hard object.

    These were some pretty tough conditions though. Regular 4-6 inch sand shouldn't be a problem if you lower your tire pressure (though I would still worry about the plastic bottom if there is debris).
  • JustinlJustinl Posts: 13
    Does anyone know the residual values for the '01 Outback LL Bean?

  • hammersleyhammersley Posts: 684
    on my 97 OB: push once briefly to unlock driver's door... push & hold til the rest unlock. FWIW. There's more than one system out there, apparently.

  • ffsteveffsteve Posts: 243

    I had my new Bean (1000 miles) in sand just a couple of weeks ago (Font's Point in Anza Borrego State Park). Consists of about 3-4 miles up a sandy wash to a point overlooking the "badlands".

    Conditions were not as bad as described by evilizard, but there were a couple of deep stretches where it felt I was driving a boat with delayed steering response. But last year I drove a Jeep Wrangler through the same section and it felt just the same. I followed the same Jeep this year and noticed that because he was fully loaded, he had less ground clearance than my Bean.

    I had just myself and some gear in the car. Felt no problems driving, AC worked fine in 108 degrees outside, and the CD player didn't skip a beat. Would do it again anytime.

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