They sell adapters that go from the smaller box to a 2" box, I'd suggest getting the correct hitch for the OB and then add the adapter for the 2" items.
I am just concerned about the ability of an adapter to support the weight of the bike rack & bikes (about 100 pounds - loaded). I guess I'll just stick with my roof rack and keep the hitch rack for a future SUV/Truck purchase. Thanks for the help!
Just purchased an '02 VDC Wagon w/45k. Clean CarFax report, no current major (visible) problems - though the steering column grinds when turning the wheel (sounds like dry bearings), and the drivers window is more loose than the passengers (causing more wind noise). I plan on driving between 30-40K/per year, so the 4/48 warranty will really last me only 2 years at best. Reading through posts, it seems there may be tranny or rotor problems in the near future. Being that warranty is only going to last 2 years at best - should I purchase it? Cost is about $1,900 - which could be used to pay it off or put aside for potential repairs. Any ideas?
I have one, but in your situation, I'd say no. Price is too high, plus you're way beyond the 36k mark so already missed the chance to have coverage since that time.
Finally, the H6 is very reliable, even the tranny.
In this case I'd say no. If you have 35k miles and the warranty cost $1300 or less I'd change my tune.
Hi. New to this forum. Just about to get a 2001 VDC with 47k (or 77 000km up here in Canada). What am I to expect in terms of fuel consumption (super unleaded recommended?) and other (unfortunately "common") repairs for this kind of car of this age/milleage? Thanks.
It would be best for your to contact the Hitch specialists to install the proper hitch for your vehicle. I am putting a hitch on my 2001 VDC H6 3.0L Outback and special parts had to be ordered. The bottom line is to get it done professionally with peace of mind. The total cost for my hitch with installation is $250 CDN.
H6 recommends premium, but only regular fuel is required. At one point Subaru stated that with 87 octane the engine makes 208hp (vs. 212hp with premium). Try it, if the engine runs well, buy the cheap stuff.
47k is still low miles, I'd expect no repairs at all if it was maintained properly. Ask for service receipts, it should have had one big one around 30k miles (maybe 45k km).
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So I bought the 2001 VDC. Three questions: Is there a 12V power outlet in the front? I have a cigarette lighter and the owner's manual states that there can be only a lighter plugged in this outlet, nothing else. Secondly, is the glove box illuminated ONLY when parking (and other lights) are switched on? I did not see any light in the glove box. Finally, is the CD player a 6CD type or a disc-at-once type? This latter question must appear a bit stupid to you, but I was wondering...
I have an 02 VDC. You can use the outlet for the cigarette lighter as a 12 V power outlet. My manual says that once you use it as a power outlet, you can never again use the cigarette lighter. I've read that the cigarette lighter will no longer pop out when it heats up and there is a risk of a fire. The glove box light only works when the lights are on, and the CD player is SINGLE play. Subaru went to the 6 CD player (McIntosh) in 03.
Thank you for your responses. As you said, the CD player is of single play type. However, the user manual has a section for a 6 or 12 disc stack (if installed). It must have been an option at the time. Now, another question: the user manual talks about a space in the rear cushion that you can use to store long objects such as skis. The rear seat effectively has an armrest in the middle but I don't seem to have this trap in the cushion that I can lower to store long objects. Finally, where is the plaque with the date of manufacturing of the vehicle? It is not in either of the two front doors or their pillars.
The six CD changer referred to in the manual was an option on the non-McIntosh system. If you are referring to the "pass-through" in the back-seat, its on the 4 door sedan to compensate for the non-folding rear seats. I have a date of manufacture sticker on the side edge of my front door. Enjoy your car.
Hello, I'm looking into getting an 05,06 Outback, right now I'm suck on the 2.5X limited or the 3.0 VDC model. I know that the MPG goes down with the 3.0 but it does have more power and I've been told is very fun to drive. The deal breaker would be its fuel requirements. I can't seem to get a straight answer on the premium fuel or regular unleaded. The dealer said the XT requires premium but with the 3.0 it is optional. Different websites say its needed and not needed. Does anyone out there who owns one have an opinion on this. If it needs premium then I don't think I would get the 3.0 too much $$$$$ for gas(but I do want it...) and would get the limited.
One other question- Is there any real cons with the AWD in an automatic? Thanks,
Subaru says regular fuel is fine, and they wouldn't say that if it could cause potential damage to an engine they have to warranty.
For the 04 and earlier H6, they said power went from 212hp on super to 208hp on regular. So you give up a couple of horses, the ECU will dial back the timing to a less aggressive mapping.
Great info thanks for helping out. I think we are going to go drive one today. I was talking with a buddy of mine about the fuel question and he was saying that hot climates could effect the need for premium v regular. We live in southern AZ. He said I should check to see the compression ratio, if it was around 9-9.5 premium would be needed. I check on the global site and the ratio is 10.7. This means very little to me, anything to you? Thanks again this forum is very helpful, I feel very educated about Subaru while talking with the dealer!
Your friend is correct - dry heat can increase the need for a more stable fuel. Lower temps and water moisture tend to cool the mixture, reducing the tendency to pre-ignite on hot carbon deposits, etc. Let your ears and how the car drives be your guide. If it pings a lot, or you feel excessive sagging in power as the mixture and timing fight to prevent knocking, then you may be a candidate for a higher octane fuel. Otherwise, go with the lowest octane the car will run efficiently on. Look into mid-grades offered by some stations.
10.7 sounds way high, but who knows. Reminds me of the muscle car days. Perhaps the global site is listing an engine variant not sold in the USA?
My friend said the same thing, reminded him of a muscle car. I've looked on the non global page and can't seem to find any info. So the engine might be different. Part of the outbacks appeal is its better than average gas and off road abilities. If the H6 requires expensive gas, and it really sounds like it does, then it loses its appeal. I think we would get the H4 2.5x limited instead. People complain about it being slow but speed aside it seems like a great car. We drove the auto, can't seem to find a manual!, and it was very nice. I've never owned an automatic before, but with the sport shifting I felt a bit more in control. Any opinions on the manual verses the automatic? I know that the AWD is slightly different. It does seem worth while to get the limited though.
I don't want to sound callous or insensitive, but fuel costs should not be your first concern here. You are looking at Outback models that span at least a $6-7k price range (H4 with manual, thru a fully equipped VDC H6 auto). You are making an investment in a vehicle for the long haul. The incremental fuel cost difference is pretty small by comparison - basically a few cups of coffee per week - especially if you economize by alternating between premium and regular when the tank is about half full.
Understand... I have an '02 base model H4 auto. At the time it was a relative bargain at $22k. But I was in a bad situation in the fall of '01, in need of two cars at once. Lease on wife's van was almost over and the new Odyssey was going to set me back another $28k, and my Toyota was in need of major work). For that reason, I wouldn't even test drive an H6, as I knew that I would never be happy with the H4 if I did!
Yes, there are days that I wish for more power and a bit more refinement, but the basic car is quite rich on features for the money.
I agree with you on that. I made the mistake of driving the turbo and I can't get it out of my mind now. But my wife is not open to the premium fuel situation. I looked around and the compression ratio is 10.7 on the H6 the H4 is 10. I really liked the H4 limited and I've found an 05 for about 26k without any bargaining. If I could find a manual the price would most likely go down.
Hi, I own a 2005 VDC Outback wagon. Since the 2006 is the same body style. Is it possible to add a factory GPS Navagation system to my 2005. When I contact 800 Subaru or various dealerships nobody knows the answer. Thanks.
My Outback broke down Sunday the 21st. It had been running fine, then the battery light and brake light came on, but the car was running fine until I exited the freeway. The radio then started going on and off, the speedometer and other gauges were bouncing all over the place and some of the other lights came on and the interior and headlights went dim. After, I turned it off, the car would not start, I got a jump and it ran for about ten more minutes and died. I had it towed to the dealership, where they put in a new battery and alternator in. I drove it home and then to the store last night, and it did it again. Dead again. Approximately, 9 months ago, I got a new alternator but not from the dealership. Has anyone else had the problem before or know what it could be. The car is back at the dealership today, but I was hoping to have some information before they call me. The car only has 56,000 miles on it.
I just, within the last couple of weeks, bought a 2005 2.5 XT limited. The dealership that I purchased the car from said that I could not get a GPS navigations system added to the car. Perhaps they will make it available at a later date. I would also like to get it.
We're possibly looking at purchasing a 2001 Outback Limited (2.5L H4) for approximately $12k. Searches online suggest for the mileage (67k) the price is pretty reasonable considering the features included. We're moving down from a larger SUV (98 mountaineer) to this vehicle (gas prices, repairs on the @#%* truck, and trying to re-examine what we actually need). Are there any general issues to be aware of with a vehicle like this (specifically repairs or future problems)? We're buying it from the original owners, who, while they can't provide any documentation indicate that they've done the regular maintenance on the vehicle. We determined where they got their service from and contacted the dealer who couldn't say much, but did share that its only undergone regular maintenance. Carfax report doesn't suggest any problems either. I guess the general notion is to go ahead, but I thought I'd ask if there are any general issues we should try to be aware of (if there are any) and if there was any advice. Thanks for any suggestions/ideas.
They didn't keep receipts or records, so how careful were they, really?
I dunno, I'd red flag that aspect. Maybe have a mechanical inspection before you buy it. Have them look closely at the head gaskets, the brakes, and the clutch or auto tranny.
While I am religious about keeping records, I don't personally know anyone else who bothers to keep receipts. Most people simply toss the paperwork, not thinking that they might be of value to a potential next owner.
My parents, for instance, are religious about maintaining their cars every 3000 miles at the dealer and never miss a service -- they don't, however, have any receipts in the car to "prove" the work was done. Same goes with my partner...he doesn't have a single receipt saved for his Accord, but it's received very consistent maintenance. I wouldn't let the absence of records sway you from the car purchase, but I WOULD have a mechanic fully inspect the vehicle just to look for anything obviously wrong.
My 2001 Outback was an excellent car, but I did have trouble with the clutch (fixed by a TSB at the dealer), wind noise at the front windows, and there was a paint defect that was causing the paint to crack under the clearcoat. All was fixed under warranty, but be sure to look at these things on a used model. I miss this car and wish I still had it! Good luck with your purchase!
Thanks for all the suggestions. Based on them I think we're going to have it checked out by the dealership where we know they had service work done, there might be a chance in doing that that the dealership would feel more forthcoming in sharing the vehicle's history. I should have just gone with my gut and headed in that direction anyhow.
Actually, juice, your My.Subaru.com notion gives me an idea that I might try to see what happens. I have the vehicle's VIN number, I wonder if the site would let me get access to the service history myself!?
Brian, your comment about wind noise reminded me that I thought it seemed as if the driver side window looked loose somehow. It was a passing thought, and when I checked it the window seemed fine, but its worth taking a closer look at.
I'm kinda anxious to get this sorted out, I can't believe gas prices over the last couple days. Anything at this point that's more efficient than our truck would be great. The seller hasn't gotten back to us yet....why you would advertise selling your car a day before you're going to have a baby (C-section) is beyond me. ;-)
Quick update to answer my own question, apparently there are pin numbers that are sent out by Subaru when owners change hands. So it sounds like I could get access to the history *after* we transfer the ownership. Supposedly an owner letter is sent out by Subaru welcoming the new owner that includes the pin.
I have an 2000 outback . original owner , with the same problem for about 18 months now . brake /battery lights come on at the same time . if I let the car sit , sometimes overnight , they don't come on again . might not come on for a few months. one time in traffic , during a heavy snow storm, it came on, then the abs came on also . eventually , when I shut it down , would 'nt, start . the battery was stone dead. I charged the battery at home , & no problem. took it to the dealer, they checked the charging system & said it was fine. just came on again the other day . I parked it , started it in the am , no problem. basically the dealer says bring it in when the brake/battery lights are on . then they could check & see what to fix. still have the original battery . 67K miles. the mechanic said probably the brushes in the alternater were hanging up every now & then. sounds logical, but why does the brake light com on ? my guess it's a ground wire that 's common to the two lights. one should not have anything to do with the other . please let me know if you find out anthing . winter is coming & I don't like to have a car that acts up.
My 2003 Outback VDC has had problems with both the ABS and VDC lights coming on. While driving under normal conditions on the freeway. The problem started while under warranty about 30 days into owning the car. The brakes barely worked, which almost cost me an accident. The dealer had to rip my dashboard out to find the problem, not sure what the problem was. Anyway my warranty is up and I am again having the same problem. Car is back at the dealership. If anyone also has had the same type of problems, I would love to hear from you. I feel that my brakes are very soft and sometimes scary when needing to stop suddenly. :sick: :confuse:
the early WRXs had a problem with the ABS, NTSB had an investigation but were unable to reproduce the problem and did not order a recall but Subaru ended up offering free ABS ECU swaps to any WRX owners who wanted it. Wonder if your VDC has a similar problem though I've not heard of any complaints about the ABS from OB/Legacy owners.
As you can read from an earlier posting, I had both ABS and VDC lights come up while driving. The garage suggested that it might have been dust in the ABS captors or a loose fuse. I opened the hood, tokk out and replaced the fuse in its housing. Since then, those two warning lights never went on again. As opposed to you, when both lights were on, the brakes worked normally (though without ABS capability). Did you check that your fuses are securely and tighly in place? There is one under the dash and the other one, a 50amp, under the hood in the big fuse box.
I am planning to buy a Subaru wagon in the near future. Am confused about whetehr it's worth the extra money to get the VDC with traction control (and navigation, which I don't really need) or go with the LL Bean, which has the same AWD system but no traction control I have traction control on my FWD Saab wagon, and it is awesome in snow with snow tires. I live in New England and have a child, so driving in snow and safety are important concerns. Dealers are saying it's no big deal to live without traction control but Cinsumer Reports says it's a key safety feature. Help please. I am technologically ignorant. Thanks.
I think the Bean is a better value. Even though I'm a fan of stability control, a Bean with good snow tires is extremely capable. Thing is the premium for the VDC is hard to justify.
Stand-along stability control is usually just a few hundred bucks, not a few thousand.
I have an 02 VDC which I like. The 06 models are nicer and have more horsepower. At the time, I purchased the VDC over the Bean not because of stability control, but because I wanted the McIntosh stereo that came with the VDC. What about a Tribeca 5 seater Limited. Stills seats five like the VDC and Bean, but is a little roomier. It has stability control and costs a bit more than a Bean and a lot less than a VDC. I found that even with VDC my car slid in the snow because the tires that came with it were terrible (similar tires are on the 06 Outbacks and there are similar complaints about them). I ended up buying Nokian WRs which are year round tires, but great in the snow. Martin
Having the stability control will give you an extra edge in New England. Especially if you use the stock tires. The AWD system will actually be slightly more capable in the VDC because the traction control system will manage power distribution between left and right wheels, as opposed to front-to-rear.
I wish Subaru made VDC available on more models, and without the alarming price tag.
Personally, unless the budget is too tight, I would never buy another vehicle without stability control. Even if it has AWD. Eventually more and more brands will have stability control standard throughout their model lineups.
I am planning to buy a Subaru wagon in the near future. Am confused about whetehr it's worth the extra money to get the VDC with traction control (and navigation, which I don't really need) or go with the LL Bean, which has the same AWD system but no traction control
I just sold my second OBW - ('97 - 164,000 miles) - and will be ordering the third - a 3.0R wagon - next week. The 3.0R is like the basic 2.5i but with the 3.0 6 and 5 speed auto. No leather, sunroof, nav etc.
The older OBW's I had didn't even have a limited slip differential on the rear drive. I used M&S all season radials on both previous OBW's and honestly I can count the number of times I even spun a wheel. This includes a lot of driving throughout Northern New England and including lots of dirt roads in VT.
VDC is neat, but not essential. If you are really concerned about Winter driving, buying a set of dedicated snows (ones with the snowflake designation) will be the best investment you can make.
We conducted a test last Winter in a snowstorm with a Honda Accord equipped with Nokian RSI snows; an Accord with all season tires, and my Subaru with Michelin HydroEdge M&S-rated all season radials. Three drivers drove them back-to-back on an unplowed road and then made notes before speaking to the other drivers.
Conclusions were the same for all three of us. The Nokian equipped Honda didn't accelerate as well as the Subaru, but stopped and turned better. We wound up shutting off the traction control, though, as more wheelspin than it allowed worked better accelerating up hills. I was so impressed I'm getting snows for the new Subaru.
VDC and other stability control systems are neat. But in terms of actual winter safety, the #1 heart-stopping scenario seems to be the requirement to stop short on ice. The ABS system standard on all these vehicles handles that situation very well.
Comments
-mike
Finally, the H6 is very reliable, even the tranny.
In this case I'd say no. If you have 35k miles and the warranty cost $1300 or less I'd change my tune.
-juice
Now i have 2 Subaru Ourback VDC 3l and i need a to buy petrol station !
Mine has ~ 20% and my pertener's has 25% medium fuel consumption...
Both have ~ 3000 Km
47k is still low miles, I'd expect no repairs at all if it was maintained properly. Ask for service receipts, it should have had one big one around 30k miles (maybe 45k km).
-juice
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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Review your vehicle
Not sure about the glove box light.
Their 6CD changers you feed in one CD at a time. Hit the "Load" button and then insert a CD. Repeat up to 5 more times.
-juice
One other question- Is there any real cons with the AWD in an automatic?
Thanks,
Recommended (but not required) on the H6.
So get the H6 if you might use lower octane fuels.
-juice
For the 04 and earlier H6, they said power went from 212hp on super to 208hp on regular. So you give up a couple of horses, the ECU will dial back the timing to a less aggressive mapping.
I doubt you'll notice in normal driving.
-juice
-juice
10.7 sounds way high, but who knows. Reminds me of the muscle car days. Perhaps the global site is listing an engine variant not sold in the USA?
Steve
Steve
Yes, there are days that I wish for more power and a bit more refinement, but the basic car is quite rich on features for the money.
Steve
I own a 2005 VDC Outback wagon. Since the 2006 is the same body style. Is it possible to add a factory GPS Navagation system to my 2005. When I contact
800 Subaru or various dealerships nobody knows the answer.
Thanks.
Steve
-juice
scott
I dunno, I'd red flag that aspect. Maybe have a mechanical inspection before you buy it. Have them look closely at the head gaskets, the brakes, and the clutch or auto tranny.
-juice
My parents, for instance, are religious about maintaining their cars every 3000 miles at the dealer and never miss a service -- they don't, however, have any receipts in the car to "prove" the work was done. Same goes with my partner...he doesn't have a single receipt saved for his Accord, but it's received very consistent maintenance. I wouldn't let the absence of records sway you from the car purchase, but I WOULD have a mechanic fully inspect the vehicle just to look for anything obviously wrong.
My 2001 Outback was an excellent car, but I did have trouble with the clutch (fixed by a TSB at the dealer), wind noise at the front windows, and there was a paint defect that was causing the paint to crack under the clearcoat. All was fixed under warranty, but be sure to look at these things on a used model. I miss this car and wish I still had it! Good luck with your purchase!
Brian
Ask the seller to open an account on My.Subaru.com, that has all the dealer services in it. Then ask him to just print the list.
I have a similar list for my Forester, it's great. The dealer stuff was already entered, but you can add the stuff you do yourself.
-juice
Actually, juice, your My.Subaru.com notion gives me an idea that I might try to see what happens. I have the vehicle's VIN number, I wonder if the site would let me get access to the service history myself!?
Brian, your comment about wind noise reminded me that I thought it seemed as if the driver side window looked loose somehow. It was a passing thought, and when I checked it the window seemed fine, but its worth taking a closer look at.
I'm kinda anxious to get this sorted out, I can't believe gas prices over the last couple days. Anything at this point that's more efficient than our truck would be great. The seller hasn't gotten back to us yet....why you would advertise selling your car a day before you're going to have a baby (C-section) is beyond me. ;-)
I'm not sure, call and ask, 800-SUBARU3.
-juice
I went home, stopped the car and restarted it: both lights were out. How do you explain that?
-juice
I charged the battery at home , & no problem. took it to the dealer, they checked the charging system & said it was fine.
just came on again the other day . I parked it , started it in the am , no problem.
basically the dealer says bring it in when the brake/battery lights are on .
then they could check & see what to fix.
still have the original battery . 67K miles.
the mechanic said probably the brushes in the alternater were hanging up every now & then.
sounds logical, but why does the brake light com on ?
my guess it's a ground wire that 's common to the two lights. one should not have anything to do with the other .
please let me know if you find out anthing . winter is coming & I don't like to have a car that acts up.
Stand-along stability control is usually just a few hundred bucks, not a few thousand.
-juice
I wish Subaru made VDC available on more models, and without the alarming price tag.
Personally, unless the budget is too tight, I would never buy another vehicle without stability control. Even if it has AWD. Eventually more and more brands will have stability control standard throughout their model lineups.
I just sold my second OBW - ('97 - 164,000 miles) - and will be ordering the third - a 3.0R wagon - next week. The 3.0R is like the basic 2.5i but with the 3.0 6 and 5 speed auto. No leather, sunroof, nav etc.
The older OBW's I had didn't even have a limited slip differential on the rear drive. I used M&S all season radials on both previous OBW's and honestly I can count the number of times I even spun a wheel. This includes a lot of driving throughout Northern New England and including lots of dirt roads in VT.
VDC is neat, but not essential. If you are really concerned about Winter driving, buying a set of dedicated snows (ones with the snowflake designation) will be the best investment you can make.
We conducted a test last Winter in a snowstorm with a Honda Accord equipped with Nokian RSI snows; an Accord with all season tires, and my Subaru with Michelin HydroEdge M&S-rated all season radials. Three drivers drove them back-to-back on an unplowed road and then made notes before speaking to the other drivers.
Conclusions were the same for all three of us. The Nokian equipped Honda didn't accelerate as well as the Subaru, but stopped and turned better. We wound up shutting off the traction control, though, as more wheelspin than it allowed worked better accelerating up hills. I was so impressed I'm getting snows for the new Subaru.
VDC and other stability control systems are neat. But in terms of actual winter safety, the #1 heart-stopping scenario seems to be the requirement to stop short on ice. The ABS system standard on all these vehicles handles that situation very well.