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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • vanman10vanman10 Posts: 3
    Every morning when I start my 2000 Dodge Caravan (3.L V6) I have a ticking noise coming from the engine. Once the engine warms up the noise goes away. This only happens in the mornings. Is it possible to adjust the lifters on these 3.L V6 engines. I currently have 144,000 km's on this van. I maintain my vehicle very well. What would cause this problem?
  • It's the AM/FM/single CD unit. One day my wife (it's her car) told me the radio wouldn't shut off. I checked it -- with the ignition on the radio was on and unresponsive to *any* buttons or knobs, couldn't change station, volume, etc. I pulled the radio fuse & replaced it, no effect. So I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, when I reconnected it the radio was dead, wouldn't turn on, no clock display, buttons didn't light up with headlights on. All other electrical stuff works great.

    A while later I replaced the battery. When I cranked it for the first time with the new battery, the radio lights came on for half a second, but then it blanked.

    Any ideas on how I could fix this myself, or should I just buy a new radio?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I replaced the Infinity unit in our 1996 Caravan recently, after finding out the dealer price for a replacement rebuilt unit was $200 and this was for one without CD player, just a cassette. CD unit would have been $300.

    I went with aftermarket unit a low end Pioneer radio/single CD, bought from and installed by the local big box electronics store. Total cost: about $109 for the radio and $100 for installation and parts.

    It works great, the only downside is the buttons and controls are small and not very user friendly, and the display is not bright enough under some daylight conditions, but that is the case with most aftermarket units.

    You could however have some other problem associated with power to the unit, but most likely it is in the radio itself.
  • radamsradams Posts: 2
    I had this exact problem and Goodyear recommended a new TCM. They replace it and the engine now runs great.
  • my 94 voyager will be running fine,,, 50-60mph down the road,, all of a sudden, it will just die, you then have to wait 5- 10 min before it will start,, if you try before that, it will crank over but acts like it is out of gas, or has no spark.. after a little wait, it will start right up run just fine,, it seems if i have the defroster on, i won't have to wait as long for it to start,,,, any help would be greatly appreciated.. thank you
  • radamsradams Posts: 2
    Is it just the speedometer or everything else? My entire dashboard is dead. The only life it has is the check-engine light (go figure) and the ABS light. My Goodyear mechanic seems to think it is the Body Control Module. We tried one, but it worked even worse than my current one! Any other ideas?
  • Just over a month ago I purchased a used 2001 GC with 54,000 miles on it. I gave it a thorough going over before I bought it and everything seemed to work wonderfully. Then about 3 weeks later I had an alarming thing happen. When I came to a stop at a stoplight, it lurched forward in such a way that I thought I had been rear-ended. After that, I continued to drive and about ten minutes later as I turned a right corner, it jumped into neutral and the engine roared. I pulled over to shift it back into drive. This didn't happen again for a piece of time, but I took it back to the dealer. They drove it for two days 35 miles later, and told me they couldn't replicate what happened and that my transmission works great. Sent me on my way. Last night while driving, this same thing happened again, lurched forward at a stop and then shifted to neutral as I turned a right corner. I know if I take it back to the dealer, it probably will not do this again, because it has only done it twice since I purchased it, and they will charge me a diagnostic fee again and send me on my way. Does anyone have this problem, or have any idea what my problem could be? The dealer also said they checked the repair history on the van and it had never been serviced in the past for transmission problems.
    Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed some light on this situation.
  • rlcfixitrlcfixit Posts: 2
    Have had this challenge for over a year. However, now we cannot get through emissions testing.

    Problem is not continuous, comes and goes. Do not notice any roughness in engine or poor performance. Van drives great.

    Some time ago, we replaced: Plugs, Plug Wires, Rotor Button and Rotor Cap. Did not fix problem.

    Just took to shop and they checked compression, rechecked all of the above and possibly a few other simple things. Reset codes and drove. Code came back just prior to completion of readiness tests. However, it takes a while for the code to show-up.

    The only thing consistent about this problem is that it seems to happen towards the end of the readiness tests. The last time code appeared only had Oxg Heater Test to complete. We had planned to reset and take to emissions after readiness tests and before code appears. Have tried several times now and it seems to repeat.

    The shop said that they thought that it is an injector with an intermittent challenge. Took home for the weekend and decided to replace injector in Cyl. #2 myself to speed up process. Problem still there.
  • steve67steve67 Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Grand Caravan with a 3.3L V6 that we purchased new in December 2001. In June 2003, while driving at about 35 mph (after about an hour on the road) without warning the engine suddenly lost power and died. After getting it to the side of the road, we had to wait about 5 minutes before it would start again. Then it ran fine until the same thing happened (again after about an hour on the road) at about 45 mph later that same weekend. The same problem also occurred in May 2004 and two days ago happened twice more. All of those times we were driving at about 65-70 mph. The van was in the dealership in June 2003 and May 2004 and will be going back there in a couple of days. Both times we previously had it at the dealer they could not replicate the problem (of course) and there were no trouble codes indicated. They had no idea what the problem might be. This has become a severe safety issue. Any ideas, or has anyone experienced something similar?

    Thanks for any ideas or other information.
  • rlcfixitrlcfixit Posts: 2
    Have some additional info on this.

    I had logged the freeze data about a year ago and also a couple times today.

    It appears that the misfire detection occurs at 6 mph. I have four data points two from a year ago and two from today. All four froze the data at 6 mph. I think this is significant. Also, the other data tells me that the vehicle is slowing down, i.e. the in-Hg is about 10 and engine speed is about 700 rpm. I ran a test and sure enough at 6 mph at a constant speed or slowing down, rpm is about 700-800 rpm. If accelerating, engine speed is about 1800 at 6 mph.

    However, the calculated load is about 25%+. So this does not add-up. The load says that the vehicle is accelerating and the other data says that it is slowing down.
  • caravan2caravan2 Posts: 198
    Hello,

    I have the same Airbag light problem. Mine is 1997 Dodge Caravan. Is there recall form that? Would this also cause "Service Engine Soon" light also? "Service Engine Soon" light came first and then Airbag light latter intermittant and goes away by istself.

    Two other questions:

    1) Is it dangerous to drive like this? Will Airbag go off for no reason? Would airbag work when it is needed?

    2) If it is not covered by recall, is it difficult/expensive to fix?

    Thank you,
  • rubberduckrubberduck Posts: 5
    It is just the speedometer that doesn't work, all other gauges work fine, the only other things that don't work are the day time running lights and the cruise.
  • ahzooahzoo Posts: 7
    My GC is quite a bit older than yours ('95), but my radio has worked only sporadically over the last few years. I can't quite find rhyme or reason to it, although sometimes I think damp weather conditions may be a factor. Like your wife, I have found that sometimes it will work but then become loud with static and won't turn off until I turn off the engine.

    I decided not to spend money on it and, happily, it did work during a recent road trip. But, with a 2001, you may just want to replace yours. Good luck!
  • chuck7429chuck7429 Posts: 2
    I have a puzzling electrical problem:

    When the ignition is switched off the radio continues to play (like it should). When the driver door is opened the radio and clock display are switched off (again, like they should). When returning to the vehicle and switching ON the ignition the radio and clock remain OFF (that's the problem). Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will return the clock and radio to operation - but only temporarily.

    This problem is coincident with needing a new battery.

    I have checked the accessory relay by switching it with another known good relay without success.

    The problem appears to be related to the open-door curoff. Thus far I have not found any information on how this works.

    Any suggestions?
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ... one needs to be careful, if any circuits are on, eg when a door is open, connecting the new battery can cause funny stuff to happen. I have seen a Dodge Caravan have flashing four-way flashers after replacing a battery. That case was cured as follows, and this may work for you.

    Shut off the car, and make sure no accessory circuits are on (ie the radio is off, door lights are off, and also that any door switches are properly adjusted etc.) Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, and then reconnect.

    I hope this works for you. It did for my friend. If it doesn't, please post back too.
  • Hi

    I have exactly the same problem with my 95 Dodge Grand Voyager. It's been in top the dealer three times to try and resolve and they can't find anything wrong. Eventually the transmission acted like the clutch was slipping when under load i.e. lots of revving with little or no forward motion and a bad burning smell. I sent it into a little transmission shop and he has had the unit apart several times but not able to fix it. He is replacing the unit with a secondhand one. Hopefully that will resolve our problem. BTW I bought the Dodge in Kansas but it now resides in the UK (120k miles later )!
  • 5bucks5bucks Posts: 10
    Hi,

    Has anyone gotten anywhere with the instrument panel failure? I have a 98 Grand Voyager. This problem has been going on for 2+ years now. Initially it was very intermittent. Everything would go dead for a few minutes then come back. Over time the period of non functioning has become longer and longer. At one point they were out for 3 months, then came back for a few weeks. Only to go out again. This is very frustrating. I've read the stories of others going to dealers for new body control modules etc and paying over $400 with no resolution to the problem. Here's what I've tried so far:

    1. Checked and reseated every fuse and relay in the vehicle
    2. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes in hopes of ressetting the BCM. Checked/cleaned all battery connections.
    3. Reseated all electrical harnesses under the dash.
    4. Tried to find the BCM ground which I read somewhere was located on the passenger side B pillar - couldn't find anything that looked like a ground

    Some other interesting details:
    1. I definetly lose some engine power/performance when the gauges go out - it's not huge, put don't have the same kind of passing power as when the gauges are working. Very noticeable when trying to pass uphill at highway speeds.
    2. Check engine light always comes on when problem starts but then goes off after driving for 10-20 minutes
    3. Cruise control still works (minus the dashboard indicator light) normally when the dash goes out.
    4. Low fuel audible "ding" still sounds (minus he dashboard indicator light) when the dash is out.
    5. Intermittent wipers function somewhat intermittently when the dash is out. They'll swipe a few times, then I have to adjust the timing knob to get them to swipe again.
    6. Red LED indicators for A/C, rear wiper, and fresh air bypass flash a constant and consistent on/off with no pattern for about ten minutes when the van is started without the guages working. I had read that these lights can display trouble codes.

    I've been trying to find a cause/solution to this problem for over 2 years now. I have yet to read of anyone with a solution - someone please help
  • 5bucks5bucks Posts: 10
    Just found this on another forum...

    Question: 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 mileage: 85000. I also have a problem with my 1994 Intrepid. The engine is a 3.5, with 85,000 miles. The gauges have been working on and off for about three months. The dealer's mechanics have not been able to find the problem as the car is in the shop for the third time. The problem seems to get worse over time. If I pull the battery cable, and replace after a couple hours, the problem will go away for a while. I have even seen the gauges pegged when started, and come to life after about ten seconds. They have replaced the module on the trans, and think it may be another. At about $160/parts per try, I am getting desperate. The problem will occur when the car is cold or hot, sometimes the ignition has to be turned on and off for over twenty cycles before the gauges will work. The air bag light will also come on whether the gauges work or not.

    Answer: Without seeing your car, it is impossible for us to help you here. Intermittent electrical problems are the most difficult to find. Your gauges have circuit boards with hundreds of solder joints. If there is just one joint that has moved and cracked the solder, it could cause the problem you described. In addition, an improper ground connection anywhere in the system could be the culprit. We wish we could help you more.

    Follow-up: Well, the dealer's mechanic finally found the gauge problem. It was a wire in the ignition harness. At least that was what they told me. The ignition and wiring was replaced, +$400 and the car is running great. It took them a while but they found it. Hope this helps others out there, I feel this problem is very wide spread. Thanks 2CARPROS
  • mkc4hiremkc4hire Posts: 1
    I don't know if this is going to help. I've owned several Dodge and Plymouth vans. Not for the machinery but for the drive. They are the best in driveability. Transmissions are their biggest flaw and Chrystler and every transmission shop around well and knows it. Every over-drive transmission I've owned has died between 80-100,000 miles. The last van I bought was a 1997 Plymouth voyager with a 3 speed. These were not supposed to have the chrystler curse on them. It lasted to 115, 000 miles. The transmission guy told me they usually see 160,000 out of them but that is the usual kill point.

    To answer your question, it sounds like you may have a failing torque converter or your transmission has slipped and your plates are glazed. Niether one would show typically until the oil viscosity has thinned out to a minimum. If you have paid a service fee and they found nothing, they should be willing to do the second for free if still existing. I would hold them to that.

    The greatest lesson I've learned is to get away from typical ATF. No more "special ATF 4" or anything else. Chrystler is not addressing the problems with their products so you have to arm yourself. Go to a good durable synthetic like AMSOIL. It exceeds your warranty and it will double your life. A regular fill is about $50-70 and the flush will probably run you a couple hundred but compared to a $2500 rebuild it is gravy. Typical ATF starts it's break down around 240 degrees. AMSOIL and like products start around 440 degrees.This ensures the molecular thickness is sufficient all the way back to the pan dramatically reducing friction, heat and ultimately wear.
    Also, Chrystler is serious about re-torquing the bands every 30, 000 miles. The first time it slips, you are on your way to transmission failure. If you do your own work, one band adjustment is outside the unit, one is inside the unit. If you run AMSOIL, just filter the oil before re-use. Oil never wears out it just becomes too contaminated to do it's job. I would advise all chrystler owners to get a plug kit to install in pan and to use gaskets with rubber impregnated cork (usually found at NAPA). These tips will help you keep a happy van. :)
  • There have been no recent posts on the strut tower rusting problem. Our 1999 Town and Country driver's side strut tower is getting to the point where I am getting concerned it may bust out the top if the vehicle accidently hits a large pothole. The passenger's side is not as bad, but will need attention soon. I need to now how people have been adddressing this problem, is there some kit available from the dealers?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Where do you see this rust?

    I just checked our 1998 GC, and there isn't a spot of rust on either strut tower, inside the engine compartment or underneath in the wheel well. Is there something I'm missing? I'm thinking that if this is a universal problem, our van if any would have it since it began its life in the winter road salt region of northern New Jersey, and now spends its days in southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ... on certain vehicles where there was a problem with the quality of one of the body stampings, which created a void that traps mud and salt etc. There is a Chrysler approved repair kit that is bonded and riveted on top of the affected parts and properly rustproofed.

    My 99 has only a few specks of rust at that point, no more than the few others showing up after 6 years in upstate NY.
  • chuck7429chuck7429 Posts: 2
    I followed your recommendation last night and disconnected the battery for ~20 minutes. After reconnecting the battery the radio and clock were again functional. I tried letting the radio time out after turning the ignition off - without opening the driver door. The radio and clock functioned through several cycles of ignition on then off and waiting until the radio timed out. Afther that the radio and clock continued to function normally.

    Until this morning.

    Today I started the vehicle and "yahoo" the radio worked (after sitting overnight). But.....I stopped for gas after about a ~25 minute drive. Afterwards the radio and clock would not function.
  • ru3yrru3yr Posts: 1
    U probably blew a fuseable link (A wire that acts like a fuse) U need to splice in a new Piece. $5 for the wire at local auto parts
  • chuckgchuckg Posts: 69
    5bucks- Here's where I'd start toward a fix. I'm not familiar with your vehicle but I don't think you'll have any problems attempting this:

    1. Based upon the Intrepid solution, I would remove the cladding that surrounds the steering column and check for any pinched or bare wires. I have done this before on my '94 New Yorker and it wasn't difficult at all. I didn't need any special tools and I didn't need to remove the steering wheel to get at it. Just take your time and be careful. While in there, I would also replace the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery cable before doing this.

    Also, you may want to try banging with your hand on the steering column and moving your adjustable steering wheel up and down. Maybe that will loosen something up.

    I had a bad ignition switch on my New Yorker. It did all sorts of strange things to the car. I was told that Chrysler has problems with their ignition switches. Don't know if this is true but the new switch fixed my problems. I had a mechanic track this down, but if it happened again I'd do it myself.

    2. I've read posts on this board that people who had electrical problems solved them by replacing the battery. How old is your battery?

    Make sure you post back what you did and your solution. This helps everyone reading this board.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    I need to replace both the top and bottom door stoppers on both sliding doors. (I have the rubber stoppers). When the dealer tried to install them, the stoppers wouldn't stay in the hole on the door because the metal is pushed in where you place the stoppers. (Not sure how this happened, but my guess is from the old stoppers when making contact with the body of the van when the doors are being slide closed). They told me in order to fix the problem, they would have to knock the dent out which would take about an hours time and cost around $30.00. I figured that I can save us the $30.00 by attempting to do it myself. Any ideas as to how to pull or knock the metal out on the sliding doors? Thanks :)
  • huggybear2huggybear2 Posts: 2
    jeffw1,

    I have a 96 Grand Caravan and I am experiencing the same problem. Please advise the solution to this problem. What was the cost? I was wandering if a person could just disconnect the wire (which one? what color) from the sensor, however you would still have the indicating light on instrument panel, however the dinging would go away.

    It is driving my wife up the wall.

    Thanks,

    HuggyBear2
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    You must have some real gorillas slamming your sliding doors shut! :)

    I would try something like this: Go to your local hardware store, and buy several of the largest size fender washers that will fit through the round opening. Then buy a hex bolt threaded all the way to the head, and a hex nut, and assemble the washers to the bolt and tighten the nut. Put the head and washers through the hole, and grab the end of the bolt with a large vise grips pliers, offseting the bolt from the hole center line and pull toward you. You may be able to pull the metal back flush with the frame for a portion of the hole. Move around the circle and do this repeatedly and you probably will be able to bend it back into place. When you put the new rubber bumper back in, use some clear silicone caulk in the rubber bumper groove to hold it in place better. I lost one of these bumpers on our Caravan for no known reason, and when I replaced it, I did this caulk job so I would not lose the replacement. The hole was not deformed on mine, however.

    Then stop feeding your kids and wife spinach so they lose some of that strength!

    -----An engineer who likes to improvise and save a few bucks wherever possible!
  • huggybear2huggybear2 Posts: 2
    akastu,

    I have a 96 Grand Caravan and experiencing the same problem. Please advise on your fix.
    My wife would appreciate it

    Thanks,

    HuggyBear2
  • Tell me more about this kit, does its installation require a dealer's help or body shop if there is welding to be done. I would also be wary of any welding in the engine compartment, it could damage the engine or ABS control computers.

    Thanks,
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    From what I've read, all existing rust must be removed and painted, then repair caps are epoxyed and held in place by rivets. The rivets are not part of the structural repair, just to keep everything in place while the epoxy cures. This site will not allow me to link to the how-to repair write-up.
  • ecker1ecker1 Posts: 1
    Mine did it too. I have a 98 Caravan.
    Dealer said the heater/ac needs to be recalibrated "on the computer" for $65.
    What a rip off!
    Lights stopped flashing in 5 minutes,but they will probably re-flash after new start up.
    Dodge shouda made an EEPROM for the settings instaead of a cmos "power down and forget" system. Groan I can't believe they engineered a rip off scheme into the car! :lemon:
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ... by the owner too. With the engine at idle and AC engaged, move the temp lever to full cold, fan on full with the engine running. Hold the two buttons with the flashing lights for 10 seconds. This should initiate the diagnostic mode, which will cycle through its test. At the end, if everything pases, the lights should go out. If the AC is low on refigerant, it will fail the cool down test, and the lights will continue to blink.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    My windshield wipers began their deviant behavior at 40,000 (I bought this 97 Caravan 4 cyl new). I could NOT make them turn on for their either two or five-six swipes, but they continued to do that periodically for 60,000 miles. Then the wipers refused to come on in any position. The wiper motor and squirter continued to work, however. I took it to the dealer and said: NOW, it is no longer an intermittant problem. The wipers will NOT work. $741.00 later, they replaced the Body Control Module (BCM) and said "fixed". Forty-seven miles later, the wipers started up their intermittant coming on. More frequently than before. Then they would NOT turn off until I moved the switch from OFF to Intermittant--then they turned off. Moving the wiper stalk switch back and forth, I got them to turn on in intermittant and off with "OFF". I have another appointment with the dealership to let them "look at it" and contact the STAR line in Michigan ("Strange, Terrible, And Riduculous ?) for "help". Can anyone out there offer any advice? Have you had this problem and REALLY fixed it? Thanks - (I don't have enough hair left to "tear any of it out".) 97Vanowner
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    My wipers died at 102,000, and finally the dealer installed a new BCM (Body Control Module) to fix it. The fix lasted 47 miles. I am taking it back Monday for a second round. What happened with your second round? Thanks. 97Vanowner
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    I had to have a new head gasket to deal with oil consumption problem at 72,000. My van is a 4 cyl. You might check that out - if this is the problem you may have some blue smoke OR just spillage down the engine block (but Not on the top of the head. If you have a six cylinder motor, the above probably does not apply.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    Sorry about your experience, but I have a 97 Caravan with 102,000 miles and the original battery. I disconnect the terminals and thoroughly clean it every year, but the little "eye" showing battery condition is still green after 8 years! Maintenance folks!
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    Exactly what happened to me - except that after replacing the BCM (Body Control Module) to the tune of $741.00, it is still acting up. Most of the time I can turn the wipers on, but they still come on at odd moments, especially when turning left - both with and without the left turn signal. No solution yet. I'll keep you posted. If you found a solution that works, please post it or send me an e-mail. Thanks.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    With regard to your battery problems. Did you have the charging system of the vehicle checked? Your problem sounds like it could be a defective voltage regulator--which could be a function taken over by the Body Control Module and it is incorrectly programmed internally. I can't even imagine how to check voltage regulation of these "modern" cars, but the results sound like that might be a voltage regulation problem.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    First, did you find a solution? If so, PLEASE send me an email with the details. I just spent $741.00 to get this fixed and the repair worked for 47 miles!. I am going back to the dealer for round 2 tomorrow. The completely replaced my switch and that did not fix the problem. They ended up putting a new BCM (body control module) in, and although the wipers now work, they also are screwed up. e.g. they come on when the switch is off. they will not turn off until you turn the switch on and then off again. Sometimes several times.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    Actually Chrysler/Dodge is pretending that they never heard of such a problem and my dealer says they have never had a similar complaint. I believe they are truly trying, but they are getting little technical help from the Daimler/Chrysler folks in Michigan and the first try at fixing the wiper problem cost $741.00 and lasted for 47 miles. If you know of anyone who has SUCCESSFULLY fixed the windshield wiper problem, please e-mail me the information and I will have my dealer tech call for help since corporately they seem to be suffering from amnesia about this fix.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    Good Evening Dave:

    If you still remember what the dealer did to fix your windshield wiper problem, I would appreciate knowing as my dealer's techs are stymied. Thanks.
  • 97vanowner97vanowner Posts: 11
    Could not help but wonder if you have discovered that ABS does not work when you are going backwards! I have ended up sideways on my driveway three times in my van. Stops great going forward, but locks brakes on one or the other of the rear wheels and pulls the backend off the driveway. Also, I could NOT get traction control unless I upgraded to the Sport Model (which cost almost $7,000 more than the LE I ordered.).
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I really find it hard to believe they cannot diagnose this, as the phantom wiper issue was fairly widespread in the generation of Daimler-Chrysler minivans introduced in 1996. The problem if I recall is in the column, either an intermittent short in the wiring or in the multifunction switch itself. I do not recall the exact solution, when ours was replaced on our 1996 caravan under warranty about eight years ago, but it definitely was not a body control module, and the dealer knew exactly what to do to fix it.

    My advice, find a new dealer.
  • qstrangeqstrange Posts: 1
    I have a leak in my oil pan and ran out of oil. Didn't have the money to get oil right away and drove it around. the oil pressure went up and down then finally down. Just last night the gas would not work nor the brakes, but the car did not stall. After shutting it off, it would not start. I am wondering if I put oil in it now, will it run? or is it finished?
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Please do NOT encourage other members to email you with the information. If it is in email then the next person with a similar problem doesn't benefit from the answer. Sharing in the discussion is what makes this a rich resource for you and others.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    What did the engine sound like when you turned it off?
    Did you hear any knocking/pounding?
    Was there any smoke issuing from under the hood?
    Did you smell any burnt smells?
    How much oil was left in the pan?
    Did the temperature gauge go all of the way to the right?
    What year and displacement of engine does your van have?

    Having asked all of those questions, if you add oil, and it restarts and is reasonably quiet/knock free, you might have dodged a bullet. So, if it does run reasonably well, the only other thing I would do is to have the compression tested to see if you destroyed the cylinder walls or stuck a valve.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 5bucks5bucks Posts: 10
    After 2 years of trying to find a fix, I finally was able to do something to get my gauges to start working again. Just took aparta few dash panels and removed the instrument cluster enough to access the modular plug that connects to the back of the cluster. Disconnected and reconnected this connector and boom the gauges are working again. Did this last Thursday. It's now Monday and instruments are still working after driving the van about 300 miles with lots of starts and stops. It has been more than 2 years since it has driven this far with the guages in continious operation. Very simple to get at the instrument cluster. just removed a few of the dash panels and the drivers side window air vent molding. Probably about 10 screws holding the assorted dash moulding pieces in place. All screws same size. Took about 10 minutes
  • 5bucks5bucks Posts: 10
    Can anyone provide info on the strut tower repair? I have a 98 voyager and the strut towers are rusting out. I've read a post or two about a "repair kit" but no specifics. a google search turned up nothing. Thanks.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    There is a lot of info out there but this site frowns on posting links to other sites.
    Here is just a small sample:

    There is a Technical Service Bulletin issued by Chrysler on Oct. 14,2002 (TSB 23-044-02) on the problem and it covers all minivans build from 1996 until 2000. If you were lucky enough to see it before your warranty ran out it would have been covered. What Chrysler told me was keep the reciept for the repair, if there is ever a recall in the future it would be paid for. Of course there will be no recall unless enough people complain to the National Highway Safety Transportation Agency.

    NHSTHA can be found at www.nhtsa.dot.gov. I filed a complaint, you can find it under complaint number 10090457. It's easy and I'd ask everyone with this problem to issue a complaint and tell others who own 1996-2000 Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge mini vans to look for the problem and issue a complaint as well.

    The parts number are 05080008-AA and 0580009-AA. The price is 27,65 CAD each. I have been lucky to find them. My dealer had one left side in stock and he found the right side for me at another dealer. They are back order everywhere.

    If you want to do the job the way they want you to do it, you will have to buy also a set of aluminium rivets (I don't know how much) and a kind of glue they sell for 70,00$.

    I did not use the glue nor the rivets. I used bolts instead. 5/16" by 3/4" long with washers. 6 bolts each side plus 4 self tapping #14 x 1" screws for the side wall.

    Need to remove the wipers arms, the cover under the wipers arms, and the pan containing the wiper motor (sorry, I don't know the names of these parts.) I think you dont need to remove the hood as I did.

    If you want to do a good job, you should get the strut assembly out of the way. Maybe removing them.

    Me, I just lowered them as much as possible by removing the 3 nuts and raising the car.

    My job is just a quik fix for an already almost dead car. My 96 voyager has 316000 Km and many other things are falling apart. The motor and the transmission are going. If he run another year, I will be happy.

    Took me about 4 or 5 hours to do the job. No more that 2 or 3 if I had to do it again.

    If you want to keep your car more than one year, I suggest that you make a better job than this one, removing the strut assembly, using the glue and rivets and putting a lot of rust protection.

    There is no instruction available and it is not really needed. The dealer told me that this problem is affecting 1996 to 2000 Caravan and Voyager.
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