I own a 98 Town & Country. It has been nothing, but a pile of junk! I have about 87K miles on it. Replaced the Transmission & Steering Column locking mechanism. Currently we have problems with the emergency brake, alignment (constantly is out), shocks now need to be replaced and passenger window motor sticks. Since I've owned this vehicle it has cost me almost $500 per month. I could have purchased a new car. Next time I will buy an import.
HAS ANYBODY HAD THE NOISY EXHAUST PROBLEM RESOLVED? I JUST BOUGHT A NEW 2005 TOWN & COUNTRY LIMITED BACK IN OCTOBER OF THIS YEAR. I LOVE THE VAN BUT THE ONLY DISAPPOINTMENT HAS BEEN THE LOUD EXHAUST GLASS PACK NOISES. ON THE HIGHWAY GOING 70 IT IS NOT VERY NOTICABLE, BUT CRUSING AROUND TOWN IT IS ALMOST UNBEARABLE. IT MAKES A LOUD GROWLING SOUND THAT DRIVES ME CRAZY.
THIS IS NOT THE QUIET MINIVAN THAT I HAVE READ REVIEWS ON. WHEN BUYING A SO CALLED "LUXURY" MINIVAN, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS CRANK UP THE RADIO TO DROWN OUT THE MUFFLER SOUNDS.
IF CHRYSLER HAS DONE NOTHING ABOUT THIS & IS JUST SAYING THIS IS INHERENT TO THE VEHICLE, THIS WILL BE THE LAST CHRYSLER THAT I WILL BUY(I STILL OWN A 99' T & C THAT IS VERY QUIET--AND HAS THE SAME ENGINE?).
I AM NOT SURE IF ALL 2005 T & C'S HAVE THIS ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN NOT FIND MANY POSTS ON THE INTERNET ABOUT THIS PROBLEM --THE LAST ONE DATED SEPTEMBER 2005 IN THIS EDMUNDS FORUM.
CAN A DIFFERENT MUFFLER BE USED TO REPLACE THE ONE ON THE VAN & SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
My 2005 DGC SXT has this "droning" at about 70, I've heard its due to routing of exhaust around Stow N Go seats. My SXT is much quieter than my 2 previous base vans, so it didn't bother me much and I normally cruise 75mph. Around town it's extremely quiet.
QUESTIONS? Are you the original owner? Are you taking the van to the selling dealer?
My 2002 T&C LX has had ONE problem: Intermittent raising of driver's door power window. Was fixed under extended warranty for the $ 100 deductible.
Everything else works perfectly on the 02 T&C and overall gas mileage is 22.4 MPG. Needless to say, I am another satisfied Chrysler minivan owner who will probably buy another DC minivan .
Glad you brought us up to date gino45. Learning what repair finally fixed something is important here too.
Sometimes things remain the same for years and then they can suddenly be entirely different.
Although $40 seems a lot to flash the computer's memory, it isn't any more than you would have paid to replace the part I was talking about. I probably paid $20 to $25 in a wreckers for a used part.
The more I look around the more I wonder if some major reworking of the electronic controls took place in 2001 (or thereabouts). Perhaps the vehicles computer now controls fan speed instead of using the old fashioned resistors.
If you look back at #3299 you'll read
"Replying to: ohmbudsman (Jun 30, 2005 8:07 am)
I have the same problem with the blower on my 2001 T&C. In addition, when I turn off the A/C unit, the blower blows harder. You may already have an answer to your question, but for anyone else who's researching this problem - the dealer said that the circuit for the blower on the circuit board has gone bad. The circuit alone can't be replaced, they have to replace the entire circuit board to the tune of about $550.00."
this was a response to 2953, who said:
"Blower speed control failure & Battery failure.
Just recently I have had my blower control switch stop working except for the highest setting. Can that be fixed without going to a garage?"
I haven't heard anything more from these people but perhaps the solution is different than I thought.
Let us know what you find out when you solve the problem so we know for the future.
Just be clear on whether the price difference is worth it. I don't have a van as new as yours and I compare used prices but if you take the money you save initially and bank it, and if you do any work yourself, you could come out ahead with a chrysler. I just couldn't afford a toyota of the same vintage. But if I could I'm sure I wouldn't worry about my transmission everytime I cold start the van.
The interesting thing is that if the autopact wasn't in place Hondas and Toyotas could probably cost the same as "domestics" containing in some cases more offshore parts than toyotas. take my Mitsubishi engine in the 99 Voyager, for example.
I doubt the autopact will disappear anytime soon though. As much as it is protectionist, Japan imports far less per capita then we do so they are even more protectionist.
This is a tough one to tackle. You've been to the mechanic and had it looked at, no codes, but a replacement idle motor done. Probably cost a bit too.
There are two ways to tackle this: I'll let you know some things I'd try if it were me. These really only make sense if you do the work yourself. If you have to pay someone you might as well take it to the dealer where they deal with the same van every day.
Cold weather is terrible on startup. if it's not showing a code it means it's something specific to startup when the engine is too cold for the computer to expect good readings.
You've got fuel. I'd suggest injector cleaning and a fuel filter change but the smell of gas in your exhaust suggests fuel but no spark.
1. Pull the back plugs yourself and have a look at them. You may have a very trustworthy mechanic but since I don't know I'll tell you that it's possible the back ones are much older as I've heard stories of mechanics not changing them because they are so tough to get to. Look for differences between plugs. this might indicate one cylinder that isn't getting the ignition it requires.
2. change the cap and rotor. I assume your engine has one. This is usually a pretty cheap repair. The harder it is to pass current between rotor and the spark plug wires the more chance you have of poor ignition at start up.
3. changing the wires might help but this might be expensive. there also may be a spray that can better insulate them against electrical loss. I haven't looked.
I keep a log book of when I've made repairs. Because I don't have a lot of diagnostic tools at my fingertips I try to change things at regular intervals and use the log book to minimize the replacement again before I should have to.
Everything is stretched pretty fine at startup. In extreme colds or in wet weather it is even more so. If you don't have the money to put into a $90 per hour mechanic, try some of the things I've suggested. You will have made some routine repairs that you don't have to feel badly even if it turns out to be something different because these things need changing periodically.
If the engine stays cold after 5 minutes to warm up, a new thermostat will help. But I think the problem he's talking about is when the engine is started initially. Everything's cold at that point so whether the coolant's flowing or not won't matter.
sometimes people start that way and in the end get a lot of help from these forums.
But I think many people feel owned by their vehicles rather than the other way around. When things get out of control, they need to blow off steam and this offers them a venue. I wonder if they ever come back to hear what others have to say.
Vehicles are very complicated devices. But there are many things that we average folks can learn to fix/understand. The more we do, the more we are empowered. And the less it feels like our vehicles own us.
Hopefully most people will be interested enough to stick around to learn what types of problems are commonplace, eg. transmission failure. how to minimize their risk, eg. regular fluid and filter change with only ATF +3 or +4, no tires spinning in snow to destroy a differential, and easy acceleration when cold, and how other people fixed their problems.
Even if people aren't about to strip down their own transmissions with rebuild kits, at least they will go to a repair shop with a good background as to how these repairs tend to work.
It's because of repair forums like this that we can drive these complicated/expensive vehicles and not have to sell our homes to maintain them.
And the original owner purchased it almost 4 years ago. Now has 38,000 miles on it and there is still about half the tread remaining on the original Goodyear tires.
I used to believe this too. However as my life has become more and more busy, and "value" has taken on a different meaning for me, I find two things:
1) the resale value on the back end typically makes up for the price difference on the front end (that's why my other car is now an Acura, instead of a Taurus)
2) in my point in life I just don't have the time to deal with the hassle of taking the car in to the shop for repairs like this.
I'm taking our 2003 with just over 55K on the clock in for new rubber tomorrow. It doesn't really need new tires just yet, in fact we could probably get another 10-15K out of the OEM Bridgestone Turanzas. The problem is that these things, worn as they are, stink in the snow.
Last summer I bought 8 Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires from TireRack.com for our two GCs, and promptly had the first 4 mounted on our 1998. Even though the 1998 doesn't have traction control and our 2003 does, the older van with the new rubber can literally run circles around its newer sibling. I figure even a small accident due to the lack of grip of the older tires and I will have lost way more than their remaining value.
I don't have the receipt in front of me but here's what I recall:
- *BOTH* front headlight bulbs burned out at the same time (brights worked; low beams did not); cost: ~$50 ; I don't necessarily blame Chrysler for this...though one must admit it's a bit odd for both to go out at the same time, and at 42,000 miles
- Driver side sliding door locking mechanism was broke; about $100 to repair it. This was not defective before 36,000 miles.
- Dashboard M.P.H. gauge light was broke. About $75 to repair this. This was not broke before 36,000 miles.
- Something was wrong with the front-end suspension. I forget what. But it didn't happen before 36,000 miles. This was about $325.
If the follow-up logic is that none of this should be covered under warranty because they weren't broken before 36,000 miles - I don't necessarily disagree. My point would be that the manufacturing company should take a consumer-oriented stance on this and say "you know, our vehicles SHOULD hold up better than that. So here's 50% of the cost back on this repair.". That would seem fair to me.
Upon riding on the front passenger side of my vehicle today, Grand caravan 2001, I noticed that my feet were getting progressively colder, even with the heat on high. Upon further inspection I noticed that ice cold air is pouring out of a vent on the floor, but next to it where the center console is, warm air is also escaping, but the cold air is overpowering. Then, to add insult to injury, it cannot be shut off. I tried turning down the heat, changing over to defrost or vent heat only, and ice cold air was still pouring in. The only way to disable the cold air is to turn the heater completely off. This also explains why it never feels completely warm in the vehicle even though the vents are blowing out hot air. This is not a very pleasant thing to deal with when the temps have been below 10 degrees. I tried to search the forum for this problem but it seems to have been futile. Anyone have similar problem or a possible solution? My passengers thank you.
- Something was wrong with the front-end suspension. I forget what. But it didn't happen before 36,000 miles. This was about $325.
I wish you better luck than us on that one. We owned a 1996 Sebring Convertible that had a moan coming from the front suspension. (Started around 34,000 miles) Four months and 5k miles later (wouldve been more, but it lived at the dealer ship for a long time), the service techs decided to order parts to completely rebuild the suspension. They wanted us to pay in full for the parts, and the rebuild labor charges (well over $1k).
After some voice raising and finger pointing (service manager to us, calling us crooks not wanting to pay for stuff they had ordered post warranty), we kept the car as-is and traded it in at our faithful Honda dealership and got a Civic for the trade-in. Good choice on that Acura, btw. They are some of the prettiest immports on the road.
I have a 2001 Town Country AWD with 62000 miles. Car broke down and I need a rear differential housing and the coupling which will cost $1900 and $1300 respectively. On top of that I need three $300 items, solenoid, heater line, and I think valve covers. I'm getting the full parts list from the dealer. I just got off the phone with Chrysler and not only will they not pay for any of it, they were downright nasty. Any comments on the repair costs? These Chryslers are absolute garbage.
I had the same problem on my 2001. Blower fan only worked on the highest speed. It turned out to be the resistor. It's located behind the glove box and took me 5 minutes to change. Cost for the part was $20.
I put two studded tires on the front of my 96 GC. Pulls well in snow and ice as I live on top of a hill. However, the rear end of the van will come around on you in a curve if you are not EXTREMELY careful, especially at speed if you hit ice on an overpass. I am ordering two more for the rear. I am getting four used rims to mount the tires and swap them out in the spring. I buy my studded tires on line from Vulcan tires. I drive the van in foul weather instead of my new Buick. Less of a loss if you get wacked.
I also have had bad experiences at my 5 Star dealer when I had a 97 neon. Chrysler did help me out in two instances after being gouged by dealer service. How do they expect repeat customers? My 2001 Caravan (bought used with 24,000 miles) now has 50,000 miles and has been trouble free. Only repair was evap pump diaphram under warranty, and a set of front brake pads which I installed myself. I still have the original tires, which need to be replaced soon. Most of the items you listed I could probably repair myself. If you are not handy, you must find a good, honest independant garage to service your vehicle.
Sound like the same problem or issue we had on our used 01 DGC EX that we bought back in Sep. 2003. I had noticed the same thing you described. I found out the cover for the inside cabin filter, which is located on the passenger side under the dash, was missing. I bought another cover from the dealership for about $12. That fixed the problem.
I should have said, "You folks with the unreliable (by your definition) DC MiniVans have all of the luck."
Mrs. Shipo and I own two 3.8 liter GCs, both of which have been such models of reliability that even the Toyonda crowd in our neighborhood is envious. Unfortunately I wish all of that wasn't so. Why? Well, we don't really need two minivans, and I'd just love to have a practical reason/excuse to buy a new car. That having been said, I'm having a very difficult time trying to justify replacing a minivan that has cost me all of $200 in unscheduled maintenance over the last 7.5 years and 104,000 miles, and currently has no squawks what so ever. Oh well, given that the 1998, which is now my daily driver, is as close to a free car as it gets, I guess I'll just have to live with it for another year or maybe even two.
Hmmm, two more years... Let's see, at my current rate of piling up the miles, the 1998 GC would have around 160,000 miles on the clock by January of 2008. I wonder just how much maintenance it will require to keep it running for the next 60K miles. Any bets? ;-)
Mrs. Shipo and I own two 3.8 liter GCs, both of which have been such models of reliability that even the Toyonda crowd in our neighborhood is envious. Unfortunately I wish all of that wasn't so. Why? Well, we don't really need two minivans, and I'd just love to have a practical reason/excuse to buy a new car. That having been said, I'm having a very difficult time trying to justify replacing a minivan that has cost me all of $200 in unscheduled maintenance over the last 7.5 years and 104,000 miles, and currently has no squawks what so ever
Congratulations Mr. LUCKY!!! Keep it up, and keep us posted!
Hi alll i am new to this but here goes I own a 1998 plymouth voyager that has ground problems I just cannot seem to locate the right/left cowl ground and instument panel ground Can anyone help with this one Thanks losing ground in Maine
Shipo, Here's a practical reason for trading, the improvement in safety engineering with graded air bags, side and side curtain air bags, not to mention the fuel efficiency of hybrid technology. In regards to maintenance costs for another 55K, much of your risk is determined by how you have done preventive care, particularly oil, coolant and transmission care. After that it is driving style, city vs highway and load demands like trailer use, etc. Then some are luckier than others. If I combine two years and 3 vehicles of similar age & mileage (including a '95 Caravan) my 55K of use includes maintenance of 3 CV/axle repairs(1 on van) for $350 and 2 AC refrigerant refills(1 on van) - $175. My wife's van also is loosing paint in tennis ball size patches ?$450. So I think the chances are significant for ignition problems of coil, cap or plug wires (if not already changed), paint, CV boots, and/or AC failure. The nice thing is that except for coil failure, you'll always get home and can get service when it is convenient and none is unusually expensive. Roy
This is a tuffy. My Chrysler service manual from Detroit only shows how to remove the dash, headlight switch etc. in ref. to a ground location. It doesn't show exactly where the ground is or how to get to it. The Body Control Module (over your left leg under dash) has a junction block in front of it that is separate and may contain ground points. The connectors for both should be cleaned and checked. The connectors on the PCM that is located up against the driver side fender behind the power distribution box should also be cleaned along with both ends of the battery cables. Also the Instrument Panel "leg" supports are grounds that apparently initiate in the printed circuit. I doubt that this is a problem but who knows. They show four ground points at the Instrument Panel "legs". As for the cowl you may have to remove the glove box or pillar trim to get to it. Here is the ground points inside the car as listed. G200---Inst. Panel Center Support (4) G201 " G202 " G203 " G300---Left Side Cowl G301---Right Cowl Panel G302---Left Rear Quarter Panel G400---In Liftgate (rear door) This looks like a grounding strip with several wires run to it) Here is the ground locations elsewhere. You might also look under the right rear tail light for a ground associated for a trailer wiring configuration. G100---Under Battery Tray G101---Left side of engine G102---Under Battery Tray (listed twice?) G103---Left Rear of Engine I think Chrysler made a retro wiring harness repair kit for the engine to alleviate a wiring problem. I was also told that there are grounds close to the radiator but I have yet to locate them. Hope this helps!
"Shipo, Here's a practical reason for trading, the improvement in safety engineering with graded air bags, side and side curtain air bags, not to mention the fuel efficiency of hybrid technology."
Hmmm, well I don't think the relative safety of the newer GCs are much different than the one that I have. Yes, yes, yes, I know, graduated air bags and side curtain bags, and such, however, our newer GC has that stuff and that's the one that does family duty. Now, the Audi A3 6-Speed that I have my eye on is a different story entirely, however, safety in and of itself is not enough of a compelling argument.
As for fuel efficiency, even if the absurd EPA ratings for the hybrids were true, it would take well over a quarter of a million miles of driving at $3.00 per gallon of gas to cost justify the twenty something thousand dollar difference between my long since paid for GC (which has a very low street value) and something like a Prius. Speaking of the Prius, ugh, what a soulless car if there ever was one. No thanks at any price. :P
For the sake of argument, let's assume that a Prius could attain 60 mpg (impossible given the speeds that I drive) versus the 22.5 that I get on the GC. At $3.00 per gallon I would save $8,333 dollars per 100,000 miles. Still not a compelling argument in my book.
As for the current state of my 1998 GC, I just had the 100,000 mile tune-up done on it in October, and said tune-up included new MOPAR ignition components including plug wires. The Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires are about 10,000 miles into a projected life of 80,000 miles. The original suspension is starting to feel its age, however, I had it checked at the 100,000 mile service appointment and there's still plenty of life left in the struts, shocks, bushing, CV joints, tie-rod ends and ball joints. As for the engine, it's been on a steady diet of Mobil 1 since the 15,000 to 20,000 mile mark, and as such it is as clean and sludge free as the day it rolled out of the factory. That and it doesn't use a full quart of oil between 7,500 mile oil changes, and the oil that I drain out is still amber in color. Not too shabby in my book. The paint? Still perfect. The Battery? That was one of the items that I already had to do, the car is now running with a top of the line Die Hard, and should easily make it another several years. The brakes? I did all four corners (first time for the rears) last June at the 87K mark, and do the fronts every 30K miles or so, whether they need it or not. So, what does that leave? The transmission. It has had its requisite 30K services performed by a dealer and shows no signs of trouble. Even if it does decide to go Tango Uniform, no big deal as it made it to over 100K miles and as such I don't figure it owes me anything.
At this point, I'm figuring another 60K miles is going to run me maybe a thousand or two for maintenance (brakes, wiper blades, serpentine belt, oil changes, filters, suspension bits, bulbs, switches, fittings and such), assuming no transmission problems and maybe a total of five large if it does fail. Hmmm, sounds pretty cheap to me. ;-)
MORE DC minivan owners with good luck (or just another example of the REAL DC reliability?). Daughter's 1999 GC 3.3L has 83,000 miles with very few repairs. Head gaskets replaced under warranty at 35,000 miles and NO COST. Battery and 4 tires replaced at about 55,000 miles. My 2002 T&C LX had a driver's side power window problem that was repaired for the $ 100 deductible under the extended "Added Care" DC warranty that will last another 4 years and up to 75,000 miles. The 100,000 mile Powertrain Warranty is good for another 3 years and 1 month. I know MANY satisfied DC minivan owners and some are now driving their 3rd DC minivan...because the first 2 gave outstanding service with very little maintenance cost.
Hi all, several days ago I posted a message asking if anyone had ever received non-warranty reimbursement from Chrysler. My issue (briefly) is that I had four things repaired on my '03 T&C minivan and it came to about $550. Our van had 43,700 miles on it at the time of repair - obviously the warranty ran out at 36,000 miles.
I called the D/C corporate customer assistance line today. I was only transfered twice and was on the phone about 30 minutes while they took my info, sent me to another person and then called the dealership to verify the repairs. The lady came back on the phone and said they'd reimburse me for $425 of the repair. No haggling, no yelling, no transferring me five times and dropping my call. Overall I must say I was pretty impressed, and I'm more than pleased w/the amount they covered.
Now, I'm still not overly pleased with the quality of the product. But if the van holds up well over the next few years then I'd probably consider buying another D/C minivan. If there are more "petty" issues down the road, that seem to out-of-the-norm repairs, then I probably wouldn't buy another one, regardless of the help they offer. But again, I was impressed w/their customer service on this one.
I glad you got some $ati$faction from DC. I really like the cars and vans they manufacture, but most of their independant dealer service departments leave very much to be desired. I know they are in business to make money, but the prices they charge for often incompetent work, makes me wonder how they can ever expect to have repeat customers. Unfortunatly, this is true of most manufacturers, not only DC. I think they rationalize that they don't make much profit on the sale of a vehicle, so they gouge you when having routine repairs done.
I have a 2005 Grand Caravan with the stow-in-go seating. It has 39,500 miles on it. The vehicle has always had a lot of tire noise and some vibration. After new tires and a wheel alignment the van still has a faint but noticeable thumbing sound while driving at speeds less than 20 mph. At higher speeds the thumb becomes a low rumble, similar to wind noise. I had a road pressure test on all tires. I replaced the wheel that tested worst. The thumb is still present. Any suggestions as to what this could be? :confuse:
I have a 1998 dodge caravan.Yesterday while sitting at a stop light,the car just turned off by itself.I tried starting it back up and it didnt start.After 5 minutes I tried again and started ok,put it in gear and died again.5 minus later, I tried again and it started.I lefted in idle and it stayed on for a long time,but it wanted to die.I went under the van, hit the gas tank a couple of times and it would accelerate by itself.Sounds like a fuel pump problem but not sure.Anybody had this problem? thanks for any help.
I have a 2001 town and country LX.My blower keeps only working on the highest level, I changed the Blower resistor the firt time and worked fine for about 7 months; the problem recurred and I did the same thing but now the resistor lasted only 3 days! can I get some help please.
I just replaced (1st time) the blower motor resistor in my 01 Voyager (61,000 miles) last night. I hope it lasts longer than yours; however, looks like maybe a bigger problem exists. Mine is working on all settings now. I'll let you know what experience I have with this. Let us know what you find out please.
I have a 1994 3.0L voyager autotrans that will not crank. I jumped it and still it will not crank. The lights, power windows etc all work and seem strong.
There is a faint humming sound when I try to start it but not like the starter missing the gear or something, more like faint wornout buzz sound. How can I test the starter and relay to see if they are good? Thanks
Hey guys couple weeks ago my 94 voyager 3.0 died and wouldn't start. It had been acting up about a week or so. anyway I put in a new pump to realize that the pump isn't getting any power. I have switched relays around and I am getting power to the fuel sending unit but not the pump itself even though they are one unit built together. any help would be great.
I had a 1998 Chrysler Concorde that acted very similarly. It was the idle sensor. If you kept your foot on the gas, it would stay running, but the tach wouldn't work, and the tranny wouldn't shift out of 1st. It would die at idle, and start, but not stay running. If you can get it to an autoparts store, most will scan it for you for free.
I have a 1999 town and country. We recently installed a remote start on it, but if the vehicle is locked either by the door switch or the factory keyless entry remote, the alarm sounds when the remote starter is used. I bought the vehicle used and don't have an owner's manual. Can anyone instruct me how to disable the factory alarm?
My wife noticed transmission slipping and parked the van. I had it towed to a garage so they can take a look at it on monday.I hooked up my obd2 reader and got these codes:
p0700:transmission control system malfunction p1782:P/ES circuit out of self test range P0732:incorrect 2nd gear ratio p0733:incorrect 3rd gear ratio p1784:transmission mechanical failure-first and reverse.
My wild guess is that the transmission is pretty much shot ain't it?
Anybody have ideas about costs of rebuild or any advice to maybe a swap?
I was just wondering if you ever figured out what was wrong with your voyager , Because I am having the same problem with my 90 Grand voyager..Please let me know if you got any answers..
i have a 91 voyager 3.3 v6 i have had 3 flats in 2 weeks on the same front drivers side tire...what could be causing this? i dont see anything rubbing on the tire and i dont hear anything..just all of a sudden i'll get a flat..same spot the first one was when i hit the curb and busted the tire and dented the rim..i replaced that rim but i still got 2 more flats since then....any ideas?? thanks
I have a 91 voyager 3.3 v-6 and i had a flat and drove a little while on it until the tire came off the rim...so i called tow truck and waited 3 hours in the cold and during which i ran the heat intermittantly but the next day the battery was dead..i tried to jump the attery and it started right up and when i went to rev up the gas to keep it started the gas pedal stuck all the way to the ground!! we turned it off and tried to start it back up but it was completely dead again. So when we tried to jump it again i saw smoke come from out of where the air filter is..after further review it loks like smoke is coming from where the solenoid would be..what can i do to fix this? and which solenoid is that?? and why would it not hold a charge?? thanks
not yet still don't have a clue. I did read something in the chiltons manual that says if the distrubutor isn't sending out a signal that the auto shutdown relay will turn off the fuel pump but not sure haven't even done anything with it in a couple days. still waiting to see if anyone has any ideas.
I don't know if you yourself can disable it, but a dealership can hook the van up to their hand-held computer and disable it. You may want to call them. If you try this, I would make sure the remote worked before I left the dealership. Also, maybe the dealership can give you clues to what may be wrong.
I guess the real question here is, are you sure you installed the remote correctly?
Comments
THIS IS NOT THE QUIET MINIVAN THAT I HAVE READ REVIEWS ON. WHEN BUYING A SO CALLED "LUXURY" MINIVAN, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS CRANK UP THE RADIO TO DROWN OUT THE MUFFLER SOUNDS.
IF CHRYSLER HAS DONE NOTHING ABOUT THIS & IS JUST SAYING THIS IS INHERENT TO THE VEHICLE, THIS WILL BE THE LAST CHRYSLER THAT I WILL BUY(I STILL OWN A 99' T & C THAT IS VERY QUIET--AND HAS THE SAME ENGINE?).
I AM NOT SURE IF ALL 2005 T & C'S HAVE THIS ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN NOT FIND MANY POSTS ON THE INTERNET ABOUT THIS PROBLEM --THE LAST ONE DATED SEPTEMBER 2005 IN THIS EDMUNDS FORUM.
CAN A DIFFERENT MUFFLER BE USED TO REPLACE THE ONE ON THE VAN & SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
My 2005 DGC SXT has this "droning" at about 70, I've heard its due to routing of exhaust around Stow N Go seats. My SXT is much quieter than my 2 previous base vans, so it didn't bother me much and I normally cruise 75mph. Around town it's extremely quiet.
QUESTIONS?
Are you the original owner?
Are you taking the van to the selling dealer?
My 2002 T&C LX has had ONE problem: Intermittent raising of driver's door power window. Was fixed under extended warranty for the $ 100 deductible.
Everything else works perfectly on the 02 T&C and overall gas mileage is 22.4 MPG. Needless to say, I am another satisfied Chrysler minivan owner who will probably buy another DC minivan .
Sometimes things remain the same for years and then they can suddenly be entirely different.
Although $40 seems a lot to flash the computer's memory, it isn't any more than you would have paid to replace the part I was talking about. I probably paid $20 to $25 in a wreckers for a used part.
If you look back at #3299 you'll read
"Replying to: ohmbudsman (Jun 30, 2005 8:07 am)
I have the same problem with the blower on my 2001 T&C. In addition, when I turn off the A/C unit, the blower blows harder. You may already have an answer to your question, but for anyone else who's researching this problem - the dealer said that the circuit for the blower on the circuit board has gone bad. The circuit alone can't be replaced, they have to replace the entire circuit board to the tune of about $550.00."
this was a response to 2953, who said:
"Blower speed control failure & Battery failure.
Just recently I have had my blower control switch stop working except for the highest setting. Can that be fixed without going to a garage?"
I haven't heard anything more from these people but perhaps the solution is different than I thought.
Let us know what you find out when you solve the problem so we know for the future.
The interesting thing is that if the autopact wasn't in place Hondas and Toyotas could probably cost the same as "domestics" containing in some cases more offshore parts than toyotas. take my Mitsubishi engine in the 99 Voyager, for example.
I doubt the autopact will disappear anytime soon though. As much as it is protectionist, Japan imports far less per capita then we do so they are even more protectionist.
There are two ways to tackle this: I'll let you know some things I'd try if it were me. These really only make sense if you do the work yourself. If you have to pay someone you might as well take it to the dealer where they deal with the same van every day.
Cold weather is terrible on startup. if it's not showing a code it means it's something specific to startup when the engine is too cold for the computer to expect good readings.
You've got fuel. I'd suggest injector cleaning and a fuel filter change but the smell of gas in your exhaust suggests fuel but no spark.
1. Pull the back plugs yourself and have a look at them. You may have a very trustworthy mechanic but since I don't know I'll tell you that it's possible the back ones are much older as I've heard stories of mechanics not changing them because they are so tough to get to. Look for differences between plugs. this might indicate one cylinder that isn't getting the ignition it requires.
2. change the cap and rotor. I assume your engine has one. This is usually a pretty cheap repair. The harder it is to pass current between rotor and the spark plug wires the more chance you have of poor ignition at start up.
3. changing the wires might help but this might be expensive. there also may be a spray that can better insulate them against electrical loss. I haven't looked.
I keep a log book of when I've made repairs. Because I don't have a lot of diagnostic tools at my fingertips I try to change things at regular intervals and use the log book to minimize the replacement again before I should have to.
Everything is stretched pretty fine at startup. In extreme colds or in wet weather it is even more so. If you don't have the money to put into a $90 per hour mechanic, try some of the things I've suggested. You will have made some routine repairs that you don't have to feel badly even if it turns out to be something different because these things need changing periodically.
But I think many people feel owned by their vehicles rather than the other way around. When things get out of control, they need to blow off steam and this offers them a venue. I wonder if they ever come back to hear what others have to say.
Vehicles are very complicated devices. But there are many things that we average folks can learn to fix/understand. The more we do, the more we are empowered. And the less it feels like our vehicles own us.
Hopefully most people will be interested enough to stick around to learn what types of problems are commonplace, eg. transmission failure. how to minimize their risk, eg. regular fluid and filter change with only ATF +3 or +4, no tires spinning in snow to destroy a differential, and easy acceleration when cold, and how other people fixed their problems.
Even if people aren't about to strip down their own transmissions with rebuild kits, at least they will go to a repair shop with a good background as to how these repairs tend to work.
It's because of repair forums like this that we can drive these complicated/expensive vehicles and not have to sell our homes to maintain them.
1) the resale value on the back end typically makes up for the price difference on the front end (that's why my other car is now an Acura, instead of a Taurus)
2) in my point in life I just don't have the time to deal with the hassle of taking the car in to the shop for repairs like this.
- Rob
Last summer I bought 8 Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires from TireRack.com for our two GCs, and promptly had the first 4 mounted on our 1998. Even though the 1998 doesn't have traction control and our 2003 does, the older van with the new rubber can literally run circles around its newer sibling. I figure even a small accident due to the lack of grip of the older tires and I will have lost way more than their remaining value.
Best Regards,
Shipo
- *BOTH* front headlight bulbs burned out at the same time (brights worked; low beams did not); cost: ~$50 ; I don't necessarily blame Chrysler for this...though one must admit it's a bit odd for both to go out at the same time, and at 42,000 miles
- Driver side sliding door locking mechanism was broke; about $100 to repair it. This was not defective before 36,000 miles.
- Dashboard M.P.H. gauge light was broke. About $75 to repair this. This was not broke before 36,000 miles.
- Something was wrong with the front-end suspension. I forget what. But it didn't happen before 36,000 miles. This was about $325.
If the follow-up logic is that none of this should be covered under warranty because they weren't broken before 36,000 miles - I don't necessarily disagree. My point would be that the manufacturing company should take a consumer-oriented stance on this and say "you know, our vehicles SHOULD hold up better than that. So here's 50% of the cost back on this repair.". That would seem fair to me.
- Rob
Do you recall what the problem/part was when it was under warranty? Do you know what the cost was?
I know I am going to have to eat the cost, just trying to prepare myself.
By the way... thank you for responding.
Eric
I wish you better luck than us on that one. We owned a 1996 Sebring Convertible that had a moan coming from the front suspension. (Started around 34,000 miles) Four months and 5k miles later (wouldve been more, but it lived at the dealer ship for a long time), the service techs decided to order parts to completely rebuild the suspension. They wanted us to pay in full for the parts, and the rebuild labor charges (well over $1k).
After some voice raising and finger pointing (service manager to us, calling us crooks not wanting to pay for stuff they had ordered post warranty), we kept the car as-is and traded it in at our faithful Honda dealership and got a Civic for the trade-in. Good choice on that Acura, btw. They are some of the prettiest immports on the road.
Any comments on the repair costs?
These Chryslers are absolute garbage.
Sorry you are learning the hard way...we did the same thing so I know how you feel.
Mrs. Shipo and I own two 3.8 liter GCs, both of which have been such models of reliability that even the Toyonda crowd in our neighborhood is envious. Unfortunately I wish all of that wasn't so. Why? Well, we don't really need two minivans, and I'd just love to have a practical reason/excuse to buy a new car. That having been said, I'm having a very difficult time trying to justify replacing a minivan that has cost me all of $200 in unscheduled maintenance over the last 7.5 years and 104,000 miles, and currently has no squawks what so ever. Oh well, given that the 1998, which is now my daily driver, is as close to a free car as it gets, I guess I'll just have to live with it for another year or maybe even two.
Hmmm, two more years... Let's see, at my current rate of piling up the miles, the 1998 GC would have around 160,000 miles on the clock by January of 2008. I wonder just how much maintenance it will require to keep it running for the next 60K miles. Any bets? ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Congratulations Mr. LUCKY!!! Keep it up, and keep us posted!
Thanks
losing ground in Maine
In regards to maintenance costs for another 55K, much of your risk is determined by how you have done preventive care, particularly oil, coolant and transmission care. After that it is driving style, city vs highway and load demands like trailer use, etc. Then some are luckier than others. If I combine two years and 3 vehicles of similar age & mileage (including a '95 Caravan) my 55K of use includes maintenance of 3 CV/axle repairs(1 on van) for $350 and 2 AC refrigerant refills(1 on van) - $175. My wife's van also is loosing paint in tennis ball size patches ?$450.
So I think the chances are significant for ignition problems of coil, cap or plug wires (if not already changed), paint, CV boots, and/or AC failure. The nice thing is that except for coil failure, you'll always get home and can get service when it is convenient and none is unusually expensive. Roy
G200---Inst. Panel Center Support (4)
G201 "
G202 "
G203 "
G300---Left Side Cowl
G301---Right Cowl Panel
G302---Left Rear Quarter Panel
G400---In Liftgate (rear door) This looks like a grounding strip with several wires run to it)
Here is the ground locations elsewhere. You might also look under the right rear tail light for a ground associated for a trailer wiring configuration.
G100---Under Battery Tray
G101---Left side of engine
G102---Under Battery Tray (listed twice?)
G103---Left Rear of Engine
I think Chrysler made a retro wiring harness repair kit for the engine to alleviate a wiring problem. I was also told that there are grounds close to the radiator but I have yet to locate them. Hope this helps!
Hmmm, well I don't think the relative safety of the newer GCs are much different than the one that I have. Yes, yes, yes, I know, graduated air bags and side curtain bags, and such, however, our newer GC has that stuff and that's the one that does family duty. Now, the Audi A3 6-Speed that I have my eye on is a different story entirely, however, safety in and of itself is not enough of a compelling argument.
As for fuel efficiency, even if the absurd EPA ratings for the hybrids were true, it would take well over a quarter of a million miles of driving at $3.00 per gallon of gas to cost justify the twenty something thousand dollar difference between my long since paid for GC (which has a very low street value) and something like a Prius. Speaking of the Prius, ugh, what a soulless car if there ever was one. No thanks at any price. :P
For the sake of argument, let's assume that a Prius could attain 60 mpg (impossible given the speeds that I drive) versus the 22.5 that I get on the GC. At $3.00 per gallon I would save $8,333 dollars per 100,000 miles. Still not a compelling argument in my book.
As for the current state of my 1998 GC, I just had the 100,000 mile tune-up done on it in October, and said tune-up included new MOPAR ignition components including plug wires. The Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires are about 10,000 miles into a projected life of 80,000 miles. The original suspension is starting to feel its age, however, I had it checked at the 100,000 mile service appointment and there's still plenty of life left in the struts, shocks, bushing, CV joints, tie-rod ends and ball joints. As for the engine, it's been on a steady diet of Mobil 1 since the 15,000 to 20,000 mile mark, and as such it is as clean and sludge free as the day it rolled out of the factory. That and it doesn't use a full quart of oil between 7,500 mile oil changes, and the oil that I drain out is still amber in color. Not too shabby in my book. The paint? Still perfect. The Battery? That was one of the items that I already had to do, the car is now running with a top of the line Die Hard, and should easily make it another several years. The brakes? I did all four corners (first time for the rears) last June at the 87K mark, and do the fronts every 30K miles or so, whether they need it or not. So, what does that leave? The transmission. It has had its requisite 30K services performed by a dealer and shows no signs of trouble. Even if it does decide to go Tango Uniform, no big deal as it made it to over 100K miles and as such I don't figure it owes me anything.
At this point, I'm figuring another 60K miles is going to run me maybe a thousand or two for maintenance (brakes, wiper blades, serpentine belt, oil changes, filters, suspension bits, bulbs, switches, fittings and such), assuming no transmission problems and maybe a total of five large if it does fail. Hmmm, sounds pretty cheap to me. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Dan
Daughter's 1999 GC 3.3L has 83,000 miles with very few repairs. Head gaskets replaced under warranty at 35,000 miles and NO COST. Battery and 4 tires replaced at about 55,000 miles.
My 2002 T&C LX had a driver's side power window problem that was repaired for the $ 100 deductible under the extended "Added Care" DC warranty that will last another 4 years and up to 75,000 miles. The 100,000 mile Powertrain Warranty is good for another 3 years and 1 month.
I know MANY satisfied DC minivan owners and some are now driving their 3rd DC minivan...because the first 2 gave outstanding service with very little maintenance cost.
I called the D/C corporate customer assistance line today. I was only transfered twice and was on the phone about 30 minutes while they took my info, sent me to another person and then called the dealership to verify the repairs. The lady came back on the phone and said they'd reimburse me for $425 of the repair. No haggling, no yelling, no transferring me five times and dropping my call. Overall I must say I was pretty impressed, and I'm more than pleased w/the amount they covered.
Now, I'm still not overly pleased with the quality of the product. But if the van holds up well over the next few years then I'd probably consider buying another D/C minivan. If there are more "petty" issues down the road, that seem to out-of-the-norm repairs, then I probably wouldn't buy another one, regardless of the help they offer. But again, I was impressed w/their customer service on this one.
- Rob
There is a faint humming sound when I try to start it but not like the starter missing the gear or something, more like faint wornout buzz sound. How can I test the starter and relay to see if they are good?
Thanks
"Useless forum?... You can get an answer a little quicker on the ASE mechanics forum for $10 a question".
87k miles
My wife noticed transmission slipping and parked the van.
I had it towed to a garage so they can take a look at it on monday.I hooked up my obd2 reader and got these codes:
p0700:transmission control system malfunction
p1782:P/ES circuit out of self test range
P0732:incorrect 2nd gear ratio
p0733:incorrect 3rd gear ratio
p1784:transmission mechanical failure-first and reverse.
My wild guess is that the transmission is pretty much shot ain't it?
Anybody have ideas about costs of rebuild or any advice to maybe a swap?
thanks
Ron
Thanks.
Danny
i have had 3 flats in 2 weeks on the same front drivers side tire...what could be causing this? i dont see anything rubbing on the tire and i dont hear anything..just all of a sudden i'll get a flat..same spot the first one was when i hit the curb and busted the tire and dented the rim..i replaced that rim but i still got 2 more flats since then....any ideas?? thanks
I guess the real question here is, are you sure you installed the remote correctly?