If the car was leased, or if I'd had it for a few years or even a few months, it wouldn't be that big of a deal to me. But it's not leased and it was only 3 days old, so it's a bit of a different situation. One of the reasons I bought this car (Honda Pilot) was for safety...now I feel like I have a car whose safety is potentially compromised through the dealership's mistake and they are not even willing to apologize. Very frustrating.
Does anyone know what the proper channels are for providing negative feedback about a dealership to an automotive company (assuming I'm not able to come to some sort of satisfactory resolution with the dealership?)
....... Depending on the damage, it being only a few days old and based on what you are saying, then the dealer should just replace it from another vehicle in stock .. if I were you, I would just call the lender and explain the situation .. good customer relations is what keeps a dealer alive ...
Within a few days, you will receive a call from Honda Customer Service asking about your purchase experience. As someone whose income was partially based on those surveys at one point, try to let your emotions over this incident sway your answers on questions not related to it.
I can remember customers that purchased cars and had a negative experience with the service department answering 'completely dissatisfied' to every question - even those like "manner in which you were greeted" and "knowledge of product features". Answer your survey questions honestly, and ask (I believe Honda does phone surveys) for an address for customer relations concerns.
Bear in mind that it's common practice to include all parties in a deal like this, whether they're at fault or not. They then fight it out, and the person suing everyone deals with whomever is left.
I'll give a separate example if it'll make more sense and the hosts don;t mind an off-topic post.
Common practice doesn't make it right and doesn't lessen the stress on the innocent victim. Imagine being sued and having to deal with the stress involved when you are in that situation purely by being in the wrong place at the wrong time. We have a great legal system but unfortunately it's not perfect.
I keep a tight leash on my customers during demo drives. I once made a young punk pull over. I tried to just leave him standing there but he knew what I was going to do and jumped into the passenger's seat.
I didn't say a word to him as I drove back. when I pulled into the lot, I said GET OUT!
BMW doing 95 MPH plows into Saturn making left turn. Court determines that accident is 99.9 percent the fault of BMW driver but 0.1 percent the fault of Saturn driver cause she didn't turn blinker on.
Now if BMW driver doesn't have any money in these multi-million dollar settlement guess who has to pay the entire judgement. You guessed it the Saturn driver due to the "deep pockets" laws.
Obviously we all have to make assumptions since we weren't there, but drawing from my own experiences....
I threatened to call the police (w/cell phone in hand) when one customer was driving aggressively, went off route and refused to pull over, (he pulled over and I drove back), and
I ended the test drive of one of the owner's friends once because of aggressive driving (he pulled over and I drove back).
Not to speak ill of those involved, but I'm not sure that I would allow one of our younger salespeople to take one of our "sportier" cars out with a group of their contemporaries w/o verifying our test drive route first.
...... Very sad for the salesman and his family ... but I have a feeling after all the smokes clears, the dealer will be paying Big Money to the passengers because of their whiplash and broken fingers .... we don't charge the folks that are guilty anymore, we charge the ones with the deepest pockets, what a system ........
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Bear in mind that I am commenting from a Canadian perspective but the whole thing will be fact driven. No doubt the driver of the BMW was speeding based upon the reports. However, with respect to the Saturn driver, generally there's a pretty high onus on the left turning driver. The onus can be discharged of course, depending upon the facts and the conduct of the driver driving straight ahead. It all depends upon what the road was like, i.e. did the hill prevent the Saturn driver from seeing the BMW, particularly given it's speed?
As for the dealership being on the hook, their garage policy contains a liability coverage. It was their car being driven with their permission by the test driver. The salesman should have told the punk to slow down or pull but didn't.
Unfortunately, that makes the dealership vicariously liable. The underlying theory of tort law is not to punish the wrongdoer but to compensate the injured party. Equally unfortunately, there is a public policy decision that insurance should be there to pick up the pieces. Since the dealership, through their salesman, was best placed to control the situation, they're on the hook. That's not to say that the driver is absolved of any responsibility but generally the liability policy of the car respondes first with the driver's own policy, maybe, picking up anything over the limits of the garage policy.
Lesson in all of this, do as a number of you have suggested, make the punk pull over and take back the wheel. If they refuse, call the cops, it may not stop an accident but it shows due diligence to take every effort to avoid one.
FYI, I took over a lease of a Saab 9-5 wagon and, as part of my due diligence, I got the VIN from the seller (lessor) and called the local Saab dealer who would be doing my service and asked them to look up the VIN and the service history. They told me the same thing. I explained that I was assuming the lease and not just calling to try to find out info, but they'd have none of it. I called Saab USA and asked if this was their policy and they said "No"--the dealer should help a prospective buyer out with a service history. Maybe you should try to call Saab USA and see what they say--they were very nice and helpful to deal with.
Great car, BTW--I had almost no problems with mine and now my wife has an '03 Aero wagon.
**likely traveling more than 90 m.p.h. when he crashed in August, killing a car salesman --- The police report said authorities believe the driver of the BMW, Christopher Maher, 20, of Inverness, was traveling "probably in excess of double the posted speed limit" of 45 m.p.h.**
**Unfortunately, that makes the dealership vicariously liable. The underlying theory of tort law is not to punish the wrongdoer but to compensate the injured party** ....
Hmm, I must not get out much .. the only injured party I see here is the salesperson and his family, probably because he's dead ... the driver should have been charged with manslaughter - oop's thats right, we don't do the responsibility thing anymore ...
We've veered off topic here - the US (or any other) legal system isn't appropriate for this board. Thanks!
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to the salesfolks, this raises a good question. How do you sell performance cars, without letting the buyer actually try out the performance?
Isell, I know in the past you restricted S2000 buyers (that is, no joy rides), but once you had the deposit, how much did you allow the pending buyer to exercise the car?
To me, it's a tough sell saying it accelerates fast, handles like a race car, etc., but you have to take my word for it that you will like it?
I'm at a C.J.D. store, so the only things 'performance related here are anything with the Hemi, the Crossfire, and the Viper. Vipers don't get driven - in fact, most buyers have them towed away. The Crossfire, not really being about power, generally attracts a mature audience so joy rides are not usually an issue. That leaves the Hemi. That's in several products now, and everyone wants to feel its power. We keep people on a straight, flat road with a speed limit of 45mph. I personally don't mind a brief full throttle stomp, but I always say something like, "Keep in mind that this road is heavily patrolled by the local police." That calms everyone down right away. Also, keep in mind that performance does not mean that you can drive 90mph - I used to do that in an '86 4cyl Turismo (not a performance car by any stretch).
Also, before a test drive I have had several minutes of conversation with the customer about their wants/needs. This pre-qualification is necessary, especially with these kinds of cars, so that everyone is as sure as they can be that all involved are on the same page.
The backwards hat, pants falling down crowd often stops by to test drive our RX-8 and Mustangs. Of course they get huffy and obnoxious when we question their abilities to buy and insure the car before any test drive. Legit customers seem to fully understand the questioning. The ones who get noisy are usually noisy because they have been exposed as a joyrider.
We will allow a customer to give our performance cars a spirited test drive but if they get nutty or questionable the ride ends quickly.
I would like to ask a question of this forum to find out what the salesman's side of the issue. I gather that these "surveys" have become the measuring tool for all automotive transactions (be they purchase or service). Being a scientist I believe in gathering meaningful data if it eventually impacts the current process. To my question...
Recently my wife and I purchased a luxury SUV from the lone brand dealership in our area. After a fair bit of haggling over price I was told that I could only get the negotiated price if I gave the dealership all "10's" on the survey. Is this fundamentally wrong? I understand that training dollars and vehicle allotment and God forbid INCOME may hinge on these surveys but c'mon. Ultimately we can see where these surveys will end up. Each dealership will bolster their score with all 10's and they survey becomes insignificant. From now on I will be less likely to give the perfect score unless I am overwhelmed with service.
Lastly I would like to express my theory on negotiating price on these vehicles which may give insight to my survey responses. I believe that inherently there is some value (to me) to every vehicle. Some cars are nowhere close to a purchase price so I do not frequent those dealerships. When shopping vehicles I shop for many brands and determine where the line falls for that vehicle. If the value to me is enough to get me laughed out of the dealership I do not go. So when negotiating on price I realize the dealership has to make money and I want to feel fulfilled. Now I have come to realize emotion can have NO place in this process. The line that I negotiate at is what I'm willing to pay... If the dealership cannot sell the vehicle for that amount of money then than you for your time. I have very little tolerance for salesmen that would lead you to believe that you are taking food from their children's mouths! You're not "doing me any favors" when you give me this price. Supply and demand is all it boils down to. I've walked from many dealerships without ill feelings for the staff but with an understanding that the two lines (value to me and their margin) did not meet. I refuse to give a salesman a score of 10 if he tells me that I am "making it very hard on him". One last note. If the amount of time that I spend taking up the salesperson's time has anything to do with it, it is negligible. All of my automobile transaction have taken less than four hours. Let me know your side of the story. I'd love to hear what you guys think.
Firstly - I am not a salesman however I do understand how these surveys work. On a gross scale the intent of these surveys are to improve the sales/delivery process and improve customer satisfaction. However the system is set up as a pass/fail system where any score other than 10 is viewed as a zero.
The surveys really impact the profit(s) available to a dealership/salesman so thats why they are important.
However they are NOT a scientific sample of the buying process. Many people buy a car and because the dealership holds out for a better price or the floor mat had a skuff in it, people give a poor score even though the customer has been treated fairly. Some people use these scores to somehow get even over perceived wrongs.
How would you feel if your salary was set by some goofy opinions based on flippant information.
Per your buying a car opinions, well that's the system we have based on how people choose to spend their money. Dealerships with fixed prices or standard practices are soon run out of business by dealerships that undercut the fixed prices by $20.
close is a good as anything else, like "sure, I'll get you some factory floormats, but we're done on price at that point".
The dealership lives and dies by those scores, just the way it is. The salesman gains or loses certification and additional income based on personal CSI scores; the dealer is allocated for vehicles and certain facets in the service department via these scores.
I have no respect for a salesman who uses the "you're taking food off my table" notion, that's just a really weak salesman.
Goes with the same notion, though, of how many consumer make up their own stats (numbers) on new and used vehicles to "negotiate" the price of the new car and value of their trade. Weak, dishonest, no matter which side of the table you're on.
The indy dealder called me back today with a followup, and said she learned the reason they couldn't give me the service history was because I wasn't the owner. Apparently if I went back today, they'd let me have it without problems. FWIW, the service rep did say it was a US legal issue and not a manufacturer policy, Saab or otherwise.
I agree, and our surveys are divided into numerous sections. Never have I used the survey in negotiations, but after I go through the delivery of the vehicle I bring out a copy of the survey and explain to the customer how important the survey is to me and specifically the questions relating to me. More importantly, I ask them to return it, not matter how they fill it out - we all know that satisfied folks are less likely to mail them back.
My first pay plan had a serious CSI component. Your weekly salary was based on CSI. Essentially CSI>98 = salary and bonuses...CSI<=97 = no salary or bonus. For those of you not in the business...sell 20 cars...average 8 surveys back...if 7 are 100's and 1 is a 75...you just got a 97 CSI. The surveys are brutal and will never be a real measure of anything since they can be bought and are swayed by emotion so easily.
service - was I was a service manager, owners at both stores I was SM at wanted CSI based pay - anything short of 99% got the service advisors NO bonus, just base pay.
That makes a difference between getting $2,000 or $2,000 plus a $2,000 bonus (on an average month).
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Not sure if this is the right place to go, so here goes:
I'm considering buying a used car, but the seller still owes $25K on the car, hence a title lein.
I have cash on hand to make the purchase, but what steps do I take if I were to purchase it from the seller. It doesn't seem wise to give the seller the cash until the title clears - yes?
he can't get a clear title until he has the money to clear the loan...
I would go to a notary and draw up an agreement - still beware that there may be insurance, and certainly registration, issues for you until you have the title.
Notarized sale papers at the courthouse (or wherever you transfer cars). You won't be able to complete the transfer until the lien clears, but you'll have everything on the right forms..
Then, you have the cashier's check made out to him AND his lender, and send off the check to the lender along with copies of the transfer paperwork... They send you release of lien papers and send him a check for the difference between what he owes and what you paid for the car..
Generally, you have to wait to take possession of the car until all of this is done..
But when you say sale paper, do you meant the agreement drawn up by the seller and I, and must the agreement be notarized at the court house or just any notary public?
Finally, the seller will still owe $7K on the loan after I pay him the price we agreed upon. That means if I were to send in my Cashier's check to the lending institution, he would still need to come up with the other $7K to pay off the loan.
Since he claims he has the cash to pay off the loan, would it unreasonable for me to ask he clears his title before I pay him in full? Assuming that could be done, what would be a reasonable amount I should give towards down payment - %?
Another possibility of how to protect yourself...since that's your ultimate goal, right? What is the seller's intention? Is he going to purchase a vehicle? If he is, we are accustomed to doing 'courtesty trades' for customers. His benefit - some tax savings on the new car (depending on the state where you live). Your benefit - dealership paper trail.
In my state, there is a specific form that has to be filled out if both parties are residents of the state.. It is required to transfer the car... In my example above, he would need to also send in a cashier's check along with yours to completely pay off the car.
You definitely want any transfer papers or bill of sale notarized..
And, yes... the best of all possible worlds is that he pays off the car and obtains clear title first... but, it is likely he will want some kind of firm monetary commitment from you, before he pays off his 0% loan... How much? I don't know... I always get the willies giving too much real cash to someone I don't know..
If he "knows" he is going to sell this car for sure...whether to you or someone else.. then he should have no problem paying it off first... but, if he is just "testing the waters" and may decide to keep the car, then of course he won't want to do that.
make sure everything is done 'above board', notarized, done in triplicate, signed 10 times, etc.
Another point to make here is that (unless this car is very rare) there is probably another car just like this one somewhere close. Try one of the used car search sites - you may get one for less, the same or just a little more, but with no potential aggravation.
The worst part about it is that you may have to pay the sales tax when you register the vehicle at DMV, as well as have to get the vehicle inspected. When I did it I took the manufacturer's Certificate of Origin to get an original NJ title. Basically works just like doing a private owner used car transaction.
if its within a reasonable distance, the selling dealer may send someone to the DMV with you to oversee the completion. i used to be in a metro area on a state border, and we did that all the time.
My question...when you buy a used car from a dealer...do you have to pay sales tax?
what about from a private seller...do you pay sales tax to the DMV when you register it?
suppose you register a car in one state --pay sales tax to DMV because the car was bought in another state and a few weeks later have to move to a different state---do you have to pay the difference in sales tax when you register the car again? is the tax refunded? for example...suppose you bought a car in NY and did not pay any tax to the dealer but paid VA sales tax at VA DMV. Now two weeks later you have to move permanently in Delaware (no sales tax)--is the tax refunded? or if you have to move to a state where the tax rate is higher---do you have to pay the difference?
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That's a good idea to have an independent shop look at it. Wish I would have thought of that yesterday when all this happened.
If there is frame damage, where does that leave me, since the dealership is being a real jerk about this whole situation.
Does anyone know what the proper channels are for providing negative feedback about a dealership to an automotive company (assuming I'm not able to come to some sort of satisfactory resolution with the dealership?)
Terry.
I can remember customers that purchased cars and had a negative experience with the service department answering 'completely dissatisfied' to every question - even those like "manner in which you were greeted" and "knowledge of product features". Answer your survey questions honestly, and ask (I believe Honda does phone surveys) for an address for customer relations concerns.
http://www.goacetech.com/Story.php?story_id=61808885&category- - =Automotive
Tragedy.
I don't care if the salesman took the car to 125 mph...it doesn't mean the driver/potential buyer had to speed and drive like a moron.
The only people benefitting from that accident will be lawyers.
And, of course, in the finest American legal tradition, the family of the dead salesman is also suing the poor girl who go hit by this guy.
Poor girl.
Bear in mind that it's common practice to include all parties in a deal like this, whether they're at fault or not. They then fight it out, and the person suing everyone deals with whomever is left.
I'll give a separate example if it'll make more sense and the hosts don;t mind an off-topic post.
I didn't say a word to him as I drove back. when I pulled into the lot, I said GET OUT!
And that was it.
BMW doing 95 MPH plows into Saturn making left turn. Court determines that accident is 99.9 percent the fault of BMW driver but 0.1 percent the fault of Saturn driver cause she didn't turn blinker on.
Now if BMW driver doesn't have any money in these multi-million dollar settlement guess who has to pay the entire judgement. You guessed it the Saturn driver due to the "deep pockets" laws.
Is that justice and is this settlement just??
I threatened to call the police (w/cell phone in hand) when one customer was driving aggressively, went off route and refused to pull over, (he pulled over and I drove back), and
I ended the test drive of one of the owner's friends once because of aggressive driving (he pulled over and I drove back).
Not to speak ill of those involved, but I'm not sure that I would allow one of our younger salespeople to take one of our "sportier" cars out with a group of their contemporaries w/o verifying our test drive route first.
Hey.. just like Arnold in The Terminator!!
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Terry.
http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html
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"Great legal system" my foot.
I suppose it's better than the legal system of, say, Nigeria...
-Mathias
As for the dealership being on the hook, their garage policy contains a liability coverage. It was their car being driven with their permission by the test driver. The salesman should have told the punk to slow down or pull but didn't.
Unfortunately, that makes the dealership vicariously liable. The underlying theory of tort law is not to punish the wrongdoer but to compensate the injured party. Equally unfortunately, there is a public policy decision that insurance should be there to pick up the pieces. Since the dealership, through their salesman, was best placed to control the situation, they're on the hook. That's not to say that the driver is absolved of any responsibility but generally the liability policy of the car respondes first with the driver's own policy, maybe, picking up anything over the limits of the garage policy.
Lesson in all of this, do as a number of you have suggested, make the punk pull over and take back the wheel. If they refuse, call the cops, it may not stop an accident but it shows due diligence to take every effort to avoid one.
Great car, BTW--I had almost no problems with mine and now my wife has an '03 Aero wagon.
**Unfortunately, that makes the dealership vicariously liable. The underlying theory of tort law is not to punish the wrongdoer but to compensate the injured party** ....
Hmm, I must not get out much .. the only injured party I see here is the salesperson and his family, probably because he's dead ... the driver should have been charged with manslaughter - oop's thats right, we don't do the responsibility thing anymore ...
Terry.
Truth in advertising at its most ironic....
Jamie
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Isell, I know in the past you restricted S2000 buyers (that is, no joy rides), but once you had the deposit, how much did you allow the pending buyer to exercise the car?
To me, it's a tough sell saying it accelerates fast, handles like a race car, etc., but you have to take my word for it that you will like it?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Also, before a test drive I have had several minutes of conversation with the customer about their wants/needs. This pre-qualification is necessary, especially with these kinds of cars, so that everyone is as sure as they can be that all involved are on the same page.
We will allow a customer to give our performance cars a spirited test drive but if they get nutty or questionable the ride ends quickly.
Recently my wife and I purchased a luxury SUV from the lone brand dealership in our area. After a fair bit of haggling over price I was told that I could only get the negotiated price if I gave the dealership all "10's" on the survey. Is this fundamentally wrong? I understand that training dollars and vehicle allotment and God forbid INCOME may hinge on these surveys but c'mon. Ultimately we can see where these surveys will end up. Each dealership will bolster their score with all 10's and they survey becomes insignificant. From now on I will be less likely to give the perfect score unless I am overwhelmed with service.
Lastly I would like to express my theory on negotiating price on these vehicles which may give insight to my survey responses. I believe that inherently there is some value (to me) to every vehicle. Some cars are nowhere close to a purchase price so I do not frequent those dealerships. When shopping vehicles I shop for many brands and determine where the line falls for that vehicle. If the value to me is enough to get me laughed out of the dealership I do not go. So when negotiating on price I realize the dealership has to make money and I want to feel fulfilled. Now I have come to realize emotion can have NO place in this process. The line that I negotiate at is what I'm willing to pay... If the dealership cannot sell the vehicle for that amount of money then than you for your time. I have very little tolerance for salesmen that would lead you to believe that you are taking food from their children's mouths! You're not "doing me any favors" when you give me this price. Supply and demand is all it boils down to. I've walked from many dealerships without ill feelings for the staff but with an understanding that the two lines (value to me and their margin) did not meet. I refuse to give a salesman a score of 10 if he tells me that I am "making it very hard on him". One last note. If the amount of time that I spend taking up the salesperson's time has anything to do with it, it is negligible. All of my automobile transaction have taken less than four hours. Let me know your side of the story. I'd love to hear what you guys think.
inukeu2
Firstly - I am not a salesman however I do understand how these surveys work. On a gross scale the intent of these surveys are to improve the sales/delivery process and improve customer satisfaction. However the system is set up as a pass/fail system where any score other than 10 is viewed as a zero.
The surveys really impact the profit(s) available to a dealership/salesman so thats why they are important.
However they are NOT a scientific sample of the buying process. Many people buy a car and because the dealership holds out for a better price or the floor mat had a skuff in it, people give a poor score even though the customer has been treated fairly. Some people use these scores to somehow get even over perceived wrongs.
How would you feel if your salary was set by some goofy opinions based on flippant information.
Per your buying a car opinions, well that's the system we have based on how people choose to spend their money. Dealerships with fixed prices or standard practices are soon run out of business by dealerships that undercut the fixed prices by $20.
The dealership lives and dies by those scores, just the way it is. The salesman gains or loses certification and additional income based on personal CSI scores; the dealer is allocated for vehicles and certain facets in the service department via these scores.
I have no respect for a salesman who uses the "you're taking food off my table" notion, that's just a really weak salesman.
Goes with the same notion, though, of how many consumer make up their own stats (numbers) on new and used vehicles to "negotiate" the price of the new car and value of their trade. Weak, dishonest, no matter which side of the table you're on.
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I agree, and our surveys are divided into numerous sections. Never have I used the survey in negotiations, but after I go through the delivery of the vehicle I bring out a copy of the survey and explain to the customer how important the survey is to me and specifically the questions relating to me. More importantly, I ask them to return it, not matter how they fill it out - we all know that satisfied folks are less likely to mail them back.
My first pay plan had a serious CSI component. Your weekly salary was based on CSI. Essentially CSI>98 = salary and bonuses...CSI<=97 = no salary or bonus. For those of you not in the business...sell 20 cars...average 8 surveys back...if 7 are 100's and 1 is a 75...you just got a 97 CSI. The surveys are brutal and will never be a real measure of anything since they can be bought and are swayed by emotion so easily.
That makes a difference between getting $2,000 or $2,000 plus a $2,000 bonus (on an average month).
One bad survey under that program would kill you.
Shouldn't let those bean counter-types who don't understand the car business run a car dealership. It's not an accounting firm, after all.
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Not sure if this is the right place to go, so here goes:
I'm considering buying a used car, but the seller still owes $25K on the car, hence a title lein.
I have cash on hand to make the purchase, but what steps do I take if I were to purchase it from the seller. It doesn't seem wise to give the seller the cash until the title clears - yes?
Thanks in advance
I would go to a notary and draw up an agreement - still beware that there may be insurance, and certainly registration, issues for you until you have the title.
The seller claims to have the money to clear the title but hasn't done so because he has a 0% loan.
In circumstances like this, how does one go forward - do I put a down payment or pony up the entire amount?
Then, you have the cashier's check made out to him AND his lender, and send off the check to the lender along with copies of the transfer paperwork... They send you release of lien papers and send him a check for the difference between what he owes and what you paid for the car..
Generally, you have to wait to take possession of the car until all of this is done..
regards,
kyfdx
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But when you say sale paper, do you meant the agreement drawn up by the seller and I, and must the agreement be notarized at the court house or just any notary public?
Finally, the seller will still owe $7K on the loan after I pay him the price we agreed upon. That means if I were to send in my Cashier's check to the lending institution, he would still need to come up with the other $7K to pay off the loan.
Since he claims he has the cash to pay off the loan, would it unreasonable for me to ask he clears his title before I pay him in full? Assuming that could be done, what would be a reasonable amount I should give towards down payment - %?
You definitely want any transfer papers or bill of sale notarized..
And, yes... the best of all possible worlds is that he pays off the car and obtains clear title first... but, it is likely he will want some kind of firm monetary commitment from you, before he pays off his 0% loan... How much? I don't know... I always get the willies giving too much real cash to someone I don't know..
If he "knows" he is going to sell this car for sure...whether to you or someone else.. then he should have no problem paying it off first... but, if he is just "testing the waters" and may decide to keep the car, then of course he won't want to do that.
regards,
kyfdx
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Edmunds Moderator
I have a much better idea on how to go forwards.
jglackin,
The seller is moving to NYC and no longer needs his car.
I have a much better idea on how to go forwards.
jglackin,
The seller is moving to NYC and no longer needs his car.
Another point to make here is that (unless this car is very rare) there is probably another car just like this one somewhere close. Try one of the used car search sites - you may get one for less, the same or just a little more, but with no potential aggravation.
I'm trying to help my folks get a good deal on a new
Toyota. How much hassle is it to buy a car out of state to register in NJ? How does one do it?
what about from a private seller...do you pay sales tax to the DMV when you register it?
suppose you register a car in one state --pay sales tax to DMV because the car was bought in another state and a few weeks later have to move to a different state---do you have to pay the difference in sales tax when you register the car again? is the tax refunded? for example...suppose you bought a car in NY and did not pay any tax to the dealer but paid VA sales tax at VA DMV. Now two weeks later you have to move permanently in Delaware (no sales tax)--is the tax refunded? or if you have to move to a state where the tax rate is higher---do you have to pay the difference?
please someone help...