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The real problem with shopping for insurance is that you do not know how they are with a claim before you have a claim. I had my first claim (and only) with USAA about 3 years ago after 10 years of coverage. After my experience, I do not expect to ever work with another company. They were that good.
The OTHER issue is that once you have a claim, most will drop you like a hot potato even if you had never had a previous claim in ten years.
I've recently been reminded to watch my P's and Q's, so I will use my one last "See Kirstie, I'm not really rabid after all" on this post. Obviously, I mention this so you can imagine this post in it's true, inhibited glory, but more importantly because you concern me in the way Black_Tulip[1] concerned me, but in a sort of embryonic way that allows experimentation.
You spend the bulk of your post on the right track:
...your right...your car repaired...original state...good parts is your choice. ...If...insurance...doesn't...pay...sue the individual...insurance coverage[doesn't]...release...him from...fixing your car to the original condition....use Honda parts on a Honda car, [or] look for a new company
Then, you say:
The idea of diminished value seems to have gone by the wayside. I recall a notice from State Farm saying something about diminished value in their repairs not being collectible...
Huh?!? You're all sorts of froggy over this guy suing whomever hit him, but State Farm sends a notice that they'd rather not pay DV claims and that is gospel? Granted, there are a few benighted states that do not recognize DV, but the market sure does. Unless you're living in a state that has declared it's inhabitants not to care whether a car has been wrecked[2], I'd hope you were advocating suing the individual for the DV State Farm won't cover.
[1] Speaking of which, I can't make the connection between the handle and the story, but it's not a bad story at all, and definitely echoes The Count of Monte Christo's milieu. Alas, early writing does not play well in a globally televised world.
[2] I can only [non-permissible content removed]-U-ME they mandate disclosure... It wouldn't be a noble sacrifice otherwise, now would it?
I can't speak for anyone elses experience, but my company did not drop me. they did not even raise my rates. They gave me an excellent valuation on my car (totalled), and took care of the other party (also totalled). They paid out over 70K on the accident.
I've been with State Farm for 25+ years, only increase in premium was for my son's policy after a couple minor accidents by him, $400 accident surcharge out of his pocket every 6 months.
I stick with State Farm because I like talking to a person and not having to push the buttins on my phone twelve times before getting through.
But wasn't that your Homeowner's policy? State Farm also cancelled my homeowner's policy a couple years ago after a very small claim (my mistake for reporting a claim of that size), but I'm in the Hurricane State so all companies are looking to get out of insuring homes here.
I bet the huge percentage of folks only shop the price and not the insurance company...When the time comes to make a claim you find out that they can install any junk they want on your car at flybynite autobody.
I've been with them for 20 years.. In '02, I totaled a car.. my fault.. but I didn't even lose my accident free discount, since I'd been accident free for over ten years..
Just one homeowner's claim in that time.... About $4K in damages from a burst pipe..
I can't gripe..
regards,
kyfdx
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By all means they should use factory parts in the repair.
considering i'm seeing it on a number of suspisciously cheap cars, I'm thinking this is bad.
thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'd like to sell my 2001 acura cl-s and get a new tl while the 2005 ML is still available. Trying to determine whether I should trade-in (more convenient, less money), or sell to private party (more money, easier to negotiate new car price). From an edmunds.com article about trade-ins:
"Work the tax advantage. In most states, you only pay sales tax on the difference between the new car and the trade-in. This means that, on top of what you receive for your trade-in, you are paying less sales tax. This is a net savings for you and could make you decide that trading in is worth it."
Does anyone know whether this is true in CA? If so, sounds like i could close trade-in/sell yourself gap by about $1k, based on 8.25% sales tax rate.
thanks
-nikita
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let's try this bimmer
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Not familiar with how Yahoo autos works.. They don't give you a direct telephone number? My first inclination is this is just a scam..
Still... I don't have an answer to your question..
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You can find out real quick.. Send an e-mail.. If you get the story about he is in Spain, but the car is in Philly, etc... send me a deposit by Western Union... you'll have your answer...
regards,
kyfdx
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well, i went ahead and set a message. I'll let you know.
It insisted on a phone number, but didn't have a problem with me putting in my area code, followed by 7 "9"s,
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. Kelly Blue Book - KBB
2. What a dealer would pay in relative to KBB
3. Similar car models sold at the auction
For example, two identical vehicle, one a trade-in and the other is a certified vehicle on the dealers lot. The appraise value is nowhere close to each other. Factors 1 & 2 are nowhere in the negotiation table except for the wholesale value that makes everyone puke. :sick:
The 3rd factor is where I'm troubled by. Is this another dealer trying to pull a fast one? :confuse:
Hmm... You're probably right there. Since I'm in Georgia at the moment and Georgia may well be one of the most pro-DV states and I can't see how anyone could argue against the economic reality if DV with a straight face, I probably underestimate the difficulty of actually prevailing on a DV claim...
Maybe we can change this... Anyone for a DV hunger strike on the Capitol Mall? (I hear the Crawford spot is already taken...)
-Greg
Well here in MA, diminished value claims are not even possible. A recent court decision ruled in the favor of insurers and stated that returning the vehicle to it's pre-accident condition is what they have responsibility for.
....returning the vehicle to it's pre-accident condition is what they have responsibility for.
Is this on contractual or liability claims? (or both) The insurers should have a lot of leverage on a contractual claim, but not much on a liability claim....
-Greg
Effective September 6, 2005, we reserve the right to repair your automobile with new OEM parts, non-OEM parts, and/or recycled (salvage) parts. If you want only OEM parts used in any repair, please notify your agent and your collision premium will be adjusted.
They want 8% more if you want OEM parts.
Anybody else seen this?
Tom
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kirstie_h
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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The federal law says that a cash transaction over $10k has to be reported.
The law also has a provision that says anything that might could be fishy should be reported... so if someone pays $9,995 down on Tuesday, adds $9k on Wednesday, and picks up the car Friday with $8,950, all in green bills, a report is due.
In order to do the registration for you, the dealer will have to see your proof of insurance, and if it was me, I'd probably ask to see your driver's license, just to make sure that "you" is really you. And I would do that because it don't cost nothing, 'cuz I shoulda done that for the test drive, and cuz if anybody comes asking questions, for whatever reason, I've covered my little heinie. So don't be too surprised if you're asked to show some ID... I'd argue against cash anyway cuz most car dealers aren't used to handling the stuff... last time I did it, they miscounted by $1k. In my favor, but still... that was a laugh...
Not in the business, I remain,
-Mathias
I would shoot any mechanic who tried to put non-OEM or salvage parts on my car.
This country needs auto insurance reform almost as badly as it needs health insurance reform.
Good God.
I'm sure the price paid reflected the high miles.
Anyway if memory serves me you need a bill of sale and a passed emissions certificate and the old title signed over by the previous owner. If you are a AAA member they do the registration and title transfer for you.
If you are writing a check, dealer may require a credit app to confirm identity and payment credentials.
I'm sure some dealers do run credit reports with just the lic but it's not our policy.
I have had one or two people balk at giving me their lic when doing a test drive though.
Why do I have to do that they say and I am not going to give it to you you are going to sell my information to someone. Come on people this is not some fly by the night car dealsership here we don't need to sell your personal info to make money.