Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems

cbrux71cbrux71 Posts: 1
edited September 2014 in Chevrolet
Just a quick question i am new to this group but was wondering if i can replace my own brake line to the rear and front brakes? I know i need new lines they're leaking and was hoping i could replace them without going into a shop? I have almost all the tools needed, anybody else replaced their brake lines? any help would be appreciated!



  • jonesvmjonesvm Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Jimmy SLT truck. i have had no major problems and I'm hoping this is not one. First, when I first start Jimmy, it seems as though my accelerator is locked. I have to push hard to pop it loose. Jimmy jerks off(of course) because I have to give the accelerate one hard pump. After then everything is fine until I cut Jimmy off and have to start again. What is this and is it an easy fix?

    Next, The brakes seem to be fine but, the indicator light for ABS and Emergency brakes come on all of the time. Jimmy has no squeaking or scrubbing in the brakes. Is this a brake problem or a faulty indicator light problem?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Check out Stop here! Let's talk about brakes while waiting for responses in here.

    Steve, Host
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Use the main forum - I usually never look in here.
    If an SLT assume 4.3 V6 with the rear drum brakes and front discs. See if the gas pedal is binding or most likely its the throttle butterfly in the throttle body sticking from deposits so take the air housing off it and open and spray (engine OFF) and clean with a toothbrush so its clean. Also spray the cable on the side and see that the mech is free - the cruise is there too and should be free. Install the housing BEFORE starting and it will run rough for a short time till the carb cleaner is burned up!
    Sounds like 2 brake problems - the emerg brake release may be sticking so after you release it see if the pedal is all the way up. Next the ABS light could be a bad front wheel sensor or wire (connects from the hub to a frame connector) so check the wires first. Rear sensor (VSS) for 2wd is on the trans and 4wd on the transfer case. ABS codes require a special code reader, so if not one of these quick fixes get the codes read to pin point.
  • My mechanic is stumped about my 94 jimmy. While driving as you apply the brake they will feel spongy at first and then there it's as if there are no brakes. It is a very scary situation but it only happens every once in awhile. My mechanic has had the vehicle for 3 months and can't figure out what it could be no computer codes come up. One suggested a solenoid inside the transmission. Another the power brake module, a part that is over $600. The mechanic just wants me to trade it in so the problem will end for him. But there has to be an explanation for this problem. Can anyone shed some light? Thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did a search on your year and abs and here's a possible reason from the "Center for Safety". Call the dealer and run your VIN and it may be free to fix -report back here when resolved.

    "Prompted by over 7,000 consumer complaints, NHTSA opened an investigation into ABS brakes in June 1994 on all 1991-94 S/T pickups and utility vehicles. Many drivers reported the brake pedal suddenly "went to the floor" without warning. The ABS brakes in the smaller 1991-96 Blazer, Jimmy, Bravada and S/T-series pickups and Sonomas randomly failed to stop the vehicle with consumers reporting more than 2,000 accidents and 600 injuries. In August 1999 NHTSA announced a recall of over one million 1991-96 S10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy with 4-wheel drive & EBC4 ABS to replace a safety switch that caused the vehicles to go into 2-wheel drive and increased stopping distance. In addition, 1993-96 models with 3-sensor (versus 4-sensor) EBC4 ABS were to get improved computer software for the braking system."
  • Thank you repairdog, just called the local dealership and there are no outstanding recalls for the brakes on my vehicle.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I would try them again with the data above and state your issue because the time limit and mileage are too high for them to cover a 94 - I was dreaming they might actually have someone that had been there awhile or cared - seems like you have to ask several times to get anything done. Ask for the service manager and if he can't help ask for the zone rep to review this (thats the area problem resolution guy) but the vehicle will have to go in to a dealer before the rep can step in.
  • stumped6stumped6 Posts: 2
    My 1999 Jimmy just started showing signs of a similar problem posted earlier. If you press on the brake pedal while the engine is off, the pedal moves about 3/4" before backpressure is felt. When the engine is running, the pedal feels very spongy, even when driving. After a short drive, the brake appears to start working, and you feel the braking effect on the first push, as when approaching a stop light. On subsequent pushes, the brake pedal feels much softer, and you really have to push on the pedal to stop. I have always done my own repairs for the last 30 years, but have never come across a problem like this. The brake pads are good, and there is no air in the system. Could it be the ABS?? Any thoughts?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be but would guess not. Make sure the large vac line to the power brake unit is not leaking and look at the intake end too cause that connector can be loose and rotate. But I would look at the rears as well - those rear calipers are junk and I always replace with rebuilts when doing a brake job - thay have a plastic type piston single and jam and the slide pins often are not pulled out of the bracket and greased - you have to pull them completely off to verify all this - been there and one stuck slide pin raises hell with the operation of the whole system. Easliest way is to buy "loaded" calipers that have the bracket/caliper/slide pins/pads all and you bolt it in and solves many headaches - only about $55-60 on rear each. Fronts are better cast 2 piston and I have had no problems with those except rusted bleeder screws and I replace those. After you do this reply back.
  • stumped6stumped6 Posts: 2
    Hey repairdog, thanks for the info. I checked the system again for air, and found the master cylinder full of black powdery stuff. I thought the MC was the problem and replaced it. I got air out of the front brakes and they seem to be working, but have no fluid pressure on both rears. You may be right about the rear calipers, but now I suspect some of the black stuff may have gotten into the ABS system.
  • germcagermca Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 gmc jimmy SLT. I've replaced the brake booster 3 times. The last with a NEW booster. The brake pedal is harder than ever! I've checked the vacuum line and it is good. The pedal doesn't appear to be hung up on anything. Yet, still the brake pedal is high and hard. Any ideas as to what could be the cause? :sick:
  • nhomadnhomad Posts: 2
    I Recently bought a 04 Blazer. The brakes are new all around, stops like a charm. However...when slow braking between stop signs (light braking at 15-20 mph) they squeal. I was tols at an auto store that new breaks will do that and it's a matter of wear. Is this true or should I call the dealer?

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    In some dry climates the brakes do squeek alittle but normally if all caliper slides are greased , rears are often not as the pins are on the bracket portion, and the pads all have anti squeal shims or permatex applied to the pad rears, nothing is heard. If from a saltly area then under the metal shims that the pads ride on can get rusted and the pads actually stick against the rotors and make noise. So, bottom line, if they did a complete brake job they should not make noise except a rare few times from dirt/mud if off roading.
  • tamofayetamofaye Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Chevy Cavalier. The pads and rotors have been checked and are fine. Sometimes when I apply my brakes it's as if they are trying to grab and it's like how my car drives when I try to stop it on ice. There is no pulsating in the pedal and the ABS light does not come on. It usually happens when I'm going fairly slow (like pulling out of a parking lot and pausing to check for oncoming cars) and almost always happens when I'm pausing and I'm on a somewhat downward incline in the front. The grabbing is taking place in the front and not the rear. The brake fluid needs to be topped off but other than that, that is the only problem anyone can see.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes a Chevy but not a Blazer/Jimmy so generically could be many things as ABS system, master cylinder, sticking calipers (grease slides) but an easy thing is to bleed the fronts until clean fluid comes out and see if this solves - could have crap in there - a shop or you can do this and check the system out. Did you pull the rotors off and the calipers and check all cause a simple visual will not tell much.
  • After 3 1/2 months, my mechanic sent my jimmy to a friend of his who had a different type of scanner. They believe the problem is the Right front wheel bearing speed sensor, does that sound possible to anyone?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, that is what pulses so the ABS knows the speeds on each front wheel. Dealer would have picked that up first time.
  • New to this, hope this posts OK.

    Looking for advice on removing the rear rotors on a 2002 Chevy Blazer, 4WD. I suspect that the emergency brake pads are holding the rotor on.

    My assumtion is this is a combination rotor / drum design and there is a small ridge that the internal pads are catching as I try to remove the rotor.

    Can anyone confirm and offer advice?

  • Doubt it - those little shoes rarely ever hang up and not like a total rear brake - no ridge forms on a parking only shoe in the drum. So, if as most the rotor/drum has rusted to the axle flange so get a 3 lb hand sledge and wack it a few times - I bought a special dead hit hammer at Sears that is shot filled and plastic coated ends so I can hit away on many parts on the Blazer that require some help coming off. Really thats all you need to do and may take a bunch of hard blows to get off - hit the center and sides but be careful on the rotor face. I would also suggest getting rebuilt calipers cause those ones in the rear always bind after pushing back in for new pads and make sure you pull the slide pins out of the bracket and grease them (a rubber cap holds on and it just pops off). You can get "loaded" calipers with the pads, caliper and braclet all ready to go for about $60 per wheel - cheapest way to go if a slide is frozen.
  • Thanks! I'll give it a try.

    The rotor does move outward a little (maybe an 1/8") and then hangs up. That's why I thought it must be catching on the pad inside. It even sounds like something inside is catching. The lug holes move in comparison to the lug bolts so it seems to be moving in relation to the hub itself.

    I didn't see any clips on the lugs. I'm in the northeast so the first thing that came to me was a ridge at the edge of the inside of the rotor / drum caused by some corrosion or wear. Will try the old way, get a bigger hammer :-)
  • Originals did have I believe clips on 2 lugs and I did assume you have the caliper bracket OFF and the parking brake released and the cable/pedal is not over tighten.
    Then hit away. The axle will move in the housing some - its a GM.
  • 2001 Chevy Blazer, bought used in June 2005 with 63,000 miles, now a little over 75,000. All recommended maintenence kept up in the past. Never wrecked.

    On nights where the temperature hovers around or falls below freezing, the emergency brake pedal will "stick" in the engaged position when I pull the release handle. Sometimes I have to get my foot behind the pedal to help it forward and disengage the ebrake. Any other weather, no problems at all.

    Last night it was WAY cold and I had to help the pedal forward after nothing happened when I pulled the release handle. When I got to my destination and pushed down the ebrake pedal, it didn't engage! It just snapped back forward to the disengaged position, and continues to do so.

    I have yet to twist my body under the dash to look at it. Before I do, does anyone have any insight or experience with this weirdness? Possible cable wear maybe?
  • I forgot to add - the ebrake itself works fine and the cable appears undamaged at the pedal. This is strictly a pedal problem.

    From what I can see, the "ratchet" workings themselves are behind a panel.
  • Yes, there is a release spring that sometimes the wiring bundle gets in the way of so have to get up in there and move it so spring works.
  • leeiswho2bleeiswho2b Posts: 2
    I'm thinking of getting a 97 Jimmy. Anyways, there is a concern I have. Sometimes when you press the brakes you can here a buzzing sound coming from what it seems to be the front driverside. It sounds like an electric motor or something. I was told the ABS sensor, calipers, rotors, and pads have been replaced. Also said he had a diagnostic ran on it and showed no problems. Was worse before replacing the before mentioned parts. The brakes felt a little spongy to me. Had a friend said his Grand Vitara did the same, all it needed was bled. Question is anyone had this problem before, and how did you resolve it?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sure the sound is brakes and not a vac problem - check all the vac lines on the drivers side for rot from PVC to the reservior and also the large hose to the power brake unit. See if all OK and that the throttle cable is not against the PCV as that gives off a buzzing noise as the retainer clips on the intake always break off so resecure.
  • leeiswho2bleeiswho2b Posts: 2
    I don't think I clarified enough. It almost sounds like a really loud fuel pump, like when you turn the ignition on before starting. It comes on for a couple of seconds then goes off. But it is in the front driver side by the wheel. it doesn't stay on. Does it only when you are pressing the brake. But not everytime. This is with the engine running.
  • my97jimmymy97jimmy Posts: 15
    I just put new front brake rotors and pads on my Jimmy, which I've done many times before. Immediately after replacing them I went for a test drive. When I apply the brakes I feel a mild vibration/shaking and the right wheel gets hot and the right brake pads squeel. Do I have a bad rotor, if so which one, or do I have a bad caliper? All worked fine before I changed them. Thanks, Keith
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sounds like when you pushed the pistons back in the right one jammed on applying the brakes. Did you grease the slides? Pads must also freely move in the calipers on the metal inserts - if they jam that could be it too - sometimes the caliper bracket gets rust under that metal insert and the pads bind - pop the insert our and remove all rust if binding and use alittle grease on the pad to insert mating points.
    The rears are known for binding as the single piston is composite plastic.
  • my97jimmymy97jimmy Posts: 15
    Thanks repairdog, that was it! The caliper slides have rubber bushings in them and they were all gummed up. I cleaned and lubricated them and they don't get hot anymore, but now when I brake my Jimmy shakes like crazy. I probably warped the rotors, didn't I?
Sign In or Register to comment.