Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems
Just a quick question i am new to this group but was wondering if i can replace my own brake line to the rear and front brakes? I know i need new lines they're leaking and was hoping i could replace them without going into a shop? I have almost all the tools needed, anybody else replaced their brake lines? any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
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Next, The brakes seem to be fine but, the indicator light for ABS and Emergency brakes come on all of the time. Jimmy has no squeaking or scrubbing in the brakes. Is this a brake problem or a faulty indicator light problem?
Steve, Host
If an SLT assume 4.3 V6 with the rear drum brakes and front discs. See if the gas pedal is binding or most likely its the throttle butterfly in the throttle body sticking from deposits so take the air housing off it and open and spray (engine OFF) and clean with a toothbrush so its clean. Also spray the cable on the side and see that the mech is free - the cruise is there too and should be free. Install the housing BEFORE starting and it will run rough for a short time till the carb cleaner is burned up!
Sounds like 2 brake problems - the emerg brake release may be sticking so after you release it see if the pedal is all the way up. Next the ABS light could be a bad front wheel sensor or wire (connects from the hub to a frame connector) so check the wires first. Rear sensor (VSS) for 2wd is on the trans and 4wd on the transfer case. ABS codes require a special code reader, so if not one of these quick fixes get the codes read to pin point.
"Prompted by over 7,000 consumer complaints, NHTSA opened an investigation into ABS brakes in June 1994 on all 1991-94 S/T pickups and utility vehicles. Many drivers reported the brake pedal suddenly "went to the floor" without warning. The ABS brakes in the smaller 1991-96 Blazer, Jimmy, Bravada and S/T-series pickups and Sonomas randomly failed to stop the vehicle with consumers reporting more than 2,000 accidents and 600 injuries. In August 1999 NHTSA announced a recall of over one million 1991-96 S10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy with 4-wheel drive & EBC4 ABS to replace a safety switch that caused the vehicles to go into 2-wheel drive and increased stopping distance. In addition, 1993-96 models with 3-sensor (versus 4-sensor) EBC4 ABS were to get improved computer software for the braking system."
Mark
Looking for advice on removing the rear rotors on a 2002 Chevy Blazer, 4WD. I suspect that the emergency brake pads are holding the rotor on.
My assumtion is this is a combination rotor / drum design and there is a small ridge that the internal pads are catching as I try to remove the rotor.
Can anyone confirm and offer advice?
Thanks
The rotor does move outward a little (maybe an 1/8") and then hangs up. That's why I thought it must be catching on the pad inside. It even sounds like something inside is catching. The lug holes move in comparison to the lug bolts so it seems to be moving in relation to the hub itself.
I didn't see any clips on the lugs. I'm in the northeast so the first thing that came to me was a ridge at the edge of the inside of the rotor / drum caused by some corrosion or wear. Will try the old way, get a bigger hammer :-)
Then hit away. The axle will move in the housing some - its a GM.
On nights where the temperature hovers around or falls below freezing, the emergency brake pedal will "stick" in the engaged position when I pull the release handle. Sometimes I have to get my foot behind the pedal to help it forward and disengage the ebrake. Any other weather, no problems at all.
Last night it was WAY cold and I had to help the pedal forward after nothing happened when I pulled the release handle. When I got to my destination and pushed down the ebrake pedal, it didn't engage! It just snapped back forward to the disengaged position, and continues to do so.
I have yet to twist my body under the dash to look at it. Before I do, does anyone have any insight or experience with this weirdness? Possible cable wear maybe?
From what I can see, the "ratchet" workings themselves are behind a panel.
The rears are known for binding as the single piston is composite plastic.
And there's nothing like getting grease on your laptop keyboard.
I would prefer not to buy a manual. I read the Haynes and it seemed a bit confusing...
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
Now, getting it off of an 8 year old car took some 8lb persuasion, but still a simple repair.
Mechanics make nearly as much money off the parts as they do their labor. I would get another opinion about replacing the EBCM (electronic brake control module) in fact they can be rebuilt for a third of what a new one would cost. The jobber price for a GM EBCM is $516 with a MSRP of $992. Jobber price is what the mechanic would have to pay for the part at a Chevrolet or GM dealership parts department. Most so called "discount" aftermarket parts stores sell to the public at jobber price. In other words, you can purchase the parts at AutoZone just as cheap as the mechanic. When the mechanic buys at jobber price, he adds at least 20% to that price for his parts profit margin. Some mechanics add more than that! Unfortunately, hardly any mechanics will let you buy and furnish your own parts. They gotcha coming and going.
The labor cost to replace the front hub bearings w/ABS rings is about $200 . The EBCM is about the same. Labor $400 + $785 for parts = $1185. I considered replacing the hub bearings on my 1991 Blazer 4x4 SUV whe I do a brake pad and rotor replacment in the next few days. I want to replace the hub bearing wABS ring and rotors just because they are OEM equipment that is 18 years old and I plan on playing with the vehicle for a long time. I have no ABS codes yet. I will do the labor myself so all I will be paying is for the parts.
If you disable the ABS, you will have standard power brakes. I have owned five high performance Pontiacs and Chevrolets in the 1960s that were equipped with drum brakes and two of them did not even have power brakes! My 1963 Pontiac Catalina had 370 HP, weighed 3900 lbs., with standard drum brakes without power assist! It was sometimes quite an adventure coming to a high speed stop!