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BMW 7-Series 2006 and earlier



  • Jkim2121Jkim2121 Posts: 2
    I just picked up my vehicle and had to shout to the world what an incredible aftermarket job I had completed on my '01 740iL. I finally found a company that was able to turn my standard BMW factory navigation screen into a #!@#$%^& DVD/TV screen!!!! I have the later '01 longer nav screen (as opposed to the more square smaller screens) and it looks and works awesome! I also had a rearview camera installed and it comes on my screen as well.

    If any of your BMW dealers tell you that it can't be done, tell them to do more homework. Not only can it be done, but it is unbelievable.

  • sergeymsergeym Posts: 274
  • rmorin2rmorin2 Posts: 110
    Where can I buy a well designed quality cup holder for my 740. Would prefer one that is not permanently mounted or that interferes with any of the controls. Thanks.
  • SergeyM I believe that for 2003 they are making the much discussed and debated 745 only.
  • Jkim2121Jkim2121 Posts: 2
    Here's a website to try. I just placed an order yesterday. They seem to only have black or gray. I happen to haven a tan interior, but oh well.
  • rmorin2rmorin2 Posts: 110
    Found one at
  • jtuotijtuoti Posts: 12
    I don't understand why KBB values a MY '99 540i w/30,000 miles and sport package about a grand more than a comparably equipped MY '99 740i w/sport package. Because a new 7 series style came out and the 5 series is still current? Anyone have any ideas? I think the 740i w/SP is a smokin' deal - I'm on the hunt for one w/low miles. Wish me luck...
  • sysadbsysadb Posts: 83
    The resale values (as a percentage of original cost) on the 5-series in general have always been better than the 7-series. The 540 holds it's value better than most cars in it's class, and the 7-series, like most large luxury cars, drops in value like a stone. KBB prices tend to be wildly optimistic in my experience. They do not accurately reflect market prices in most cases, but the 540i/s should be worth more than the corresponding 7-series (especially after 3 years).

  • Hi.
    I am contemplating the purchase of an 1991 BMW 735i with 186K miles, "but" it's absolutely immaculate. All maintenance was done at the BMW dealership and everything is documented. Including a brand new BMW transmission put in at 160K miles. It even smells like new inside... I never owned a 7-series before and I heard both horror stories and praises for them. This one looks beautiful and the maint. records are impressive. I don't know is what specific things I should look for in the maintenance logbook, or what particular items I should feel for in the test drive...

    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


  • greddygtrgreddygtr Posts: 54
    To anyone who was considering purchasing a 745 but can't stand the err, controversial styling, BMW is already working on a redesign of the front headlights and rear deckid. Check out _code=carnews&loc_code=index&content_code=02012541 for details. I guess even the "ultimate manufacturer" admits to making mistakes on occasion.
  • sysadbsysadb Posts: 83
    Well, they can always improve it. But I would not call the current design a mistake. While it is fair to say the design is controversial (my term is unique) , the change has actually been a good thing for the 7. Sales are WAY up on this car. My local dealer says rarely do any buyers that consider the car criticize the styling. Most that reject it do so due to apprehension over the i-drive. Personally, I strongly prefer the styling over my previous gen 740, which looks plain in comparison. I would think it more accurate to say that Bangle and co. may believe a *mild* restyling will make the car even more successful than it already is, rather than imply that the styling is a flop. If it were that bad sales would not be so strong...

    As for AUTOWEEK's comment about the car being poorly received at auto shows, that might have been true initially (by the press), but I've been to three auto shows in the last 3 months, and out of all it's competitors (A8, Q45, S Class, XJ and LS430), the 745 is drawing much more attention from the public. Given the success of the car I would only expect minor changes, if any.

  • rmorin2rmorin2 Posts: 110
    I picked up a real nice '00 740iL for under $35K. It was listed at $38.9K. Lease return with under 50K miles. Car listed at $70K so this is a 50% drop in value in 3 years.
  • tasillotasillo Posts: 51
    I, as many others on this forum have discovered, the great deal that is a used 7 series! Last October I purchased a '00 740iL from a domestic brand dealer in Gainesville, GA (no BMW dealer for 25 miles). The car is the rare Orinocco blue/green with the 750 series hi-line interior (contrasting leather and carpet/dash) as well as the 18" M wheels. A stunning car with only 27k for 40k! Less than a new basic 525 or C320, both of which can't hold a candle to the 7 in terms of room, ride, power or appearance.

    The biggest issue is BMW dealers! They tend to view previously-owned cars (non-certified) as 2nd class citizens. No loaner privlages (even under remaining factory warranty) and definitely a "you didn't purchase the car new , from us? attitude.

    I've put 13k on the car in 5 months and have only had minor issues. However the 18" Z-rated tires are toast in about 15-18k and everyone I've spoken to has had the same experience. The car had brand new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on it when I got it, they're a cool $1300 for a new set. Plus the staggered sizes prohibit rotation. The price of good handling and looks, I suppose.

    Anyway, I'd strongly recommend anyone considering a smaller new BMW, 'Benz or Cadillac to check out the 87-01 7 series.
  • jtt30jtt30 Posts: 2
    I own a '01 (July build) 740il w/sport package, which I purchased used last October at 12,000 miles. In the last five months have put a whopping 2,000 miles on the car. The low miles are the result of me using the car mainly to deliver my kids to daycare or drive them around on errands (I'm normally so thrifty that I justified the purchase of a 7 series as being safer than a Volvo and much better looking than an MB 4-door).

    I love the car, but I experience this maddening glitch of the battery draining if the car sits for more than three days. Can anyone offer any insite on this? The dealership has replace the battery twice, and kept the car for a two day period to run diagnositics to determine if there existed some type of irregular draw on the battery. I was told the results were within normal spec range. When not being driven, the car sits in my garage without the alarm system engaged. My wife has a $50,000 SUV that has almost as many features as my 7 series, which can sit for weeks at a time with no adverse effect to the battery. In addition, I have a '75 3.0 Coupe which sits parked for months at a time. The dash mounted clock, which still keeps great time, doesn't kill off the battery in the car - at least not after two months of sitting. What am I missing?


  • sosaksosak Posts: 5
    Can anyone suggest some tires for 740il? I am looking for reasonable tire with a fair price. Thank you.
  • px260px260 Posts: 42
    The astronaut looking into the hood ad strikes me as the cost of repairing one of these things. Anyone disagree?
  • tasillotasillo Posts: 51
    jtt there is definitely something wrong with the electrical in your 740. Mine ('00 iL) has sat for a week at a time both in the garage and at the airport and I've never had a starting problem. And, it has the original 3 yr. old battery! The only thing I can think of outside of a major short or malfunctioning accessory is the auxiliary ventilation system. I've never figured out how this thing actually works but my understanding is it can be programmed to come on at a specific time and run the A/C fan to venitlate the interior. I assume it's so you can set it to cool the interior if the car is parked in the sun. On my '00 there is a small red indicator loght to the left of the NAV display that comes on to indicate the system is programmed and activated. The owners manual even cautions against excessive use as that will drain the battery. Other than that, I cannot think of anything else. Good Luck!
  • eric312eric312 Posts: 71
    I am looking to buy a 2001 740i with a sport package and about 25,000 miles on it. What would be a good proce for such a car. Also was looking at the new E320 and 2001 S430 (roughly the same price range), any comments on similiarities, differences, preferences etc. appreciated.
  • rgilbanergilbane Posts: 2
    I have owned 3 740 il's. In considering the new 740Li I have several concerns 1) seats are very uncomtable-much harder than previous model 2)several friends who have purchased it state the battery drains after 7 days-car is dead 3)parking attendants don't know how to drive it. In lieu of purchasing a new Li I picked up a 2001 il with 28,000 miles for $42k. Car was like new. I can live with the crazy styling and the I drive but BMW needs to fix the above to win back loyal buyers.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    Assuming you have the 16" wheels as opposed to the 18" M-parallels, I would recommend going with the Dunlop Sport A2's. They were rated #1 for an all-season tire by Consumer Reports. They ride very nice. Michelin's (like the OEMs) are good too but pricey.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    Get the Benz if you want pure luxury. Get the 740 if sporty handling is important to you. I would consider the 5-series as well if you are seriously considering a new E320. It's about $10k less and still gets top ratings and reviews after 7 yrs since the current 5 debuted. You can get a MY99/00 pre-owned 528i for $20k - $30k and a 540i in the high 20's low 30's.
  • sosaksosak Posts: 5
    Okay I have 105k on my 740iL and I am wondering if I myself can reset the inspection II lights if I do the service myself. I continue to have BMW change the oil.
    Thanks goose1207 for the tire info. They are great tires Dunlop Sport 16 inch. I would love the sport rims if I had them, but I don't. Anyone know where I can get these 17 for a good price.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    The Dunlop's are called Sport A2's. I have them on my standard 16" ellipsoidal rims.
  • sysadbsysadb Posts: 83
    There is a reset tool used to reset your status. I've seen them advertised in Autoweek, etc. Can't remember exactly, but the price seemed to be about $70.
  • bmwdougbmwdoug Posts: 248
    I agree with the other posters on this board. I am currently looking for a used 740i or 740il as they are being offered at GREAT prices. I think the new body style has drove the price down quite a bit. The used 7 Series is the BMW sweet spot right now in terms of value. And, what a car!! Now, what car would you folks go after: the 740i or th e740il??? Thanks
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    I have the iL and am glad that I have the extra ~6" in back. It is much easier to manuever around back there when I am placing my baby in the car seat. I would go with the i if you don't need the additional space, ie-if you don't use the back seat that much or don't have kids.
  • wabendswabends Posts: 102
    After carefully perusing through the messages on this board for several months, I have decided to acquire a 00/01 740iL. I am going for a test drive at two dealerships tomorrow.

    I live in VA but I am negotiating for a 2000 740iL from a dealership in NY. The salesman is asking for $43,500 for the car with the following specs:
    1 previous owner
    Close to 20K miles,
    Anthracite metallic with gray leather interior
    Rear air bags
    Cold weather package
    Adaptive ride
    Electric rear shade
    Active comfort seats
    Parking distance control
    18" alloy wheels
    Certified pre-owned

    Because of the distance, the car would be delivered for an additional $400. Now my question: is this a good deal?

    Also, this is the first time that I am going to purchase a car from such a distance and hence do not get to test drive it before the actual purchase. If anyone has done so before, please share your experience with me. Thanks in advance.
  • bmwgurubmwguru Posts: 51
    I would be cautious about the deal. You're not going to test drive the car, the distance from the dealer. Doesn't sound good to me. Besides there are several good dealers in the D.C./Maryland area. Give them a shot.
  • wabendswabends Posts: 102
     Thanks for your advice. I am going to visit the dealerships today and I will consider the outcome seriously.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    $43,500 is very high. If you are going to purchase out of your area, I would buy via eBay. There are tons of '00/'01 740iL's on there selling at wholesale value. You can get a decent one for $30k or so. You can even find some that are CPO'ed on there. Most of the eBay sellers allow you to hire an independent, 3rd party vehicle inspection service. They will test drive it for you and give you a comprehensive report. The fees are usually between $100-$200 but well worth it. The seller will usually give you a free Carfax report as well if you request it.

    I almost bought a 3-series convertible off eBay last October but a friend of mine found a 7-series at the local ADESA auction for me so I bought that instead.
  • wabendswabends Posts: 102
    Thanks for your suggestions; I will check eBay to see what is available. This will be my first attempt at buying from this source so I will do so with caution. I will keep you posted.
  • wrb1wrb1 Posts: 2
    I am looking for 90-96 7 series car in Ohio. My mechnic likes the v6 in 735i. I have found good price(I think) on 94 740i $8000 122000 miles. Engine replaced at 50,000 miles. Can I have some advise comparing the two. Also should the engine replacement by BMW scare me off.

  • bmwgurubmwguru Posts: 51
    First get a new mechanic. The 735i is an inline 6. As far as the engine change goes, it might have been done as part of the recall on the early V8's. I wouldn't worry about the engine change anyway. BMW engines last a long time if routine maintainance is performed. The 735 might cost a little less to repair but that engine has been out of production for 10 years. I would have the 740 checked by a BMW dealership. Problem areas for the V8 are intake gaskets and seals and the valve cover gaskets.
  • wrb1wrb1 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input. Do you have any idea if $8000 is a good price for 94 740i with 122,000 miles. Edmunds thinks it is!
  • bmwgurubmwguru Posts: 51
    It sounds on the low side, but if the car is in good shape you may have a deal. It can be an expensive car to repair however. So have it checked out completely by someone very familiar with the 740.
  • pj740ilpj740il Posts: 1
    I recently found an '99 740il ebay listing in my Atlanta metro area which did not meet reserve and called the seller. After going to look at the car, checking Carfax, Edmunds, NADA, KBB etc., I arranged a pre-purchase inspection at the local BMW dealer who also was a big help in furnishing info on other service records. Negotiation was a breeze and I picked the car up in time for a trip to the mountains. What a dream car to drive and I am thrilled with the car and the purchase price in the lower 20K range. I'm passing down my Volvo turbo wagon to my son and mom will step up in luxury and pampering.
  • Hi, I have always wanted to own a 5 or 7 series BMW. Recently, I located a 1994 740il with about 70k miles for a price of $12k. I have done an Edmunds search and a Consumer Guide Vin search which was clear.

    Is this year of the 740il a good one? What problems with the engine/drivetrain should I be aware of? I'm going back to school for a second degree and don't want to also have to get a minor in auto repair...;-) thanks!
  • bmwgurubmwguru Posts: 51
    Not a lot of drivetrain problems with the 94 740i. The problems areas are usually the intake gaskets/seals and valve cover gaskets. Look to replace the waterpump soon if it hasn't been replaced. Have the front suspension checked for play in the control arms and thrust rods.
  • tbrown12tbrown12 Posts: 18
    I was looking into getting a new Acura 3.2TL-S when I found out that a friend of a friend sells luxury cars at wholesale. He has a few low mileage 2000 740 sports for about the same price as the new Acura and I am going to look at them this week. He gets various new luxury cars often but mentioned that the 740's are great deals in the current market.

    My concern is about the annual maintenance costs for the car compared to a Japanese car that requires oil changes only for the most part.

    How are the maintance costs (ballpark)? Insurance? Other concerns vs buying a new 30k Japanese car?

  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    Get the 740 if you want a sedan that handles like a sports car and if you enjoy driving. Get the Acura if having bulletproof reliability is important to you. This is not to say that the BMW will be a problem but there are a few known items that will need to be replaced starting at approx. the 60k mile (or greater) range. This includes the radiator and O2 sensors.

    Most of the cars that I've owned in the past have been Japanese but the sheer enjoyment that I get from driving the 740 outweighs the concern of having to replace a few parts.

    If I were in your shoes and opted for the TL-S, I would get it used and save $10k --they have been selling for approx. $19k wholesale.

    In my opinion, the maintenance costs are about the same. The Inspection I (oil change) can range anywhere from $50-$100 depending on the dealer. It takes 8 quarts of synthetic. However, you will not be changing the oil every 3000 miles. The BMW Maintenance Indicator will tell you when it's time. It calculates this based on the type, amount and driving conditions. Based on my personal experience, it goes a lot more than 3000 miles before you need to change it.

    The Inspection II runs about $600 or so at the dlr here in Boston. That is usually done every 30k miles. I use a good independent mechanic and he charges me half of that. This encompasses:

    BMW Inspection II
    Includes all items listed under Inspection I.

            Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
      Check transmission for leaks.
      Check rear axle for leaks.
      Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
      Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
      Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
      Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary:
    Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean and brake pad contact points in calipers.
    Grease wheel centering hubs.
    Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads.
    (7 Series Note: applies to 740i/iL beginning 9/96 production)
      Remove and install front and rear disc brakes, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
    (7 Series Note: applies to all 750iL, and 740i/iL thru 8/96 production.
      Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
      Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
      Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
      Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
    Note: If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*
      Check thickness of parking brake linings
    7 Series Note: Applies to all 750iL, and 740i/iL thru 8/96 production.
      Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
      Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
    Engine Compartment
      Read out diagnostic system.
      Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
    Note: Coolant must be replaced every 3 years (time interval begins from vehicle production date).
      Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
      Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*
      Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
      Check air conditioner operation.
      Reset Service Indicator.
      Replace spark plugs.
      Replace intake air cleaner element.
    Note: Reduce replace interval in dusty operating conditions.
    Body/Electrical Equipment
      Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
      Perform battery load test.
      Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
      Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
      Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
      Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
      Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.
      Check condition and function of safety belts.
      Oil hood, trunk/tailgate and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
      Check central locking/double lock.
      Replace batteries for alarm remote controls in all vehicle master keys.
      Replace microfilter.
    Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
      Check heater/ air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
      Check rear view mirrors.
      Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
    Final Inspection
      Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission.
  • dlim3dlim3 Posts: 1
    I just pick up my '03 745li from my dealer's service dept. for the 2nd time. Dealer states that car phone can't be used without the portable phone(motorola v.60i) set in the cradle. The owner's manual states that the car phone can be used w/o the portable pnone in the cradle. Who is right? In addition, I can't seem to charge the portable phone while it is in the cradle.
  • tasillotasillo Posts: 51
    I'm the very pleased owner of a '00 740iL that I bought used at a non-BMW dealer. In Oct. '02 I paid 39k for a loaded il with 27k and brand-new Michelin Pilot Sports on it. Since then I've added over 20k and have the following observations:

    With 95% highway driving, the oil life indicator lights at about 15k, makes the 59.95 Synthetic oil change easy to stomach

    Highway driving nets 21 mpg at approx 75-80 mph. Much better than I thought

    Alignment is critical, mine was slightly out and began to cup the front tires at 10k.

    The 18" wheel/tire combination looks and handles great, but is expensive and offers short life-span. The Pilot Sport A/S's on my car are about shot after 21k, the staggered size prevents rotation which would help greatly. Replacement shoes are about a thousand bucks!

    The original front brake pads wore out and the indicator light came on after 45k. The rotors on these cars cannot be resurfaced, new rotors, pads, sensor and assorted hardware were about $450.

    For a 70k car with beautiful appointments, the stereo sucks! My wife's Caravan with the Chrysler/Infinity system blows the BMW away.

    Look for a good dealer, Athens BMW in Athens GA has been helpful but is small, sometime hard to get a service appointment. United BMW in Atlanta took the car with no appt., changed oil, aligned and installed new front brakes in 1 day, plus the car was detailed nicely upon return!

    The 7 series is an absolute freight train on the highway. Fast, stable, secure and extremely comfortable. My dad's Lexus LS400 isn't even close on the highway.

    If buying used, the newer the better. Up until about '96, BMW had a problem with the original equipment engine blocks which were made out of Alusil, apparently the sulfur content in U.S. gasoline ate these blocks alive from the inside out. Some blocks failed in as littel as 30k! BMW replaced many of these engines with a newly designed block made from Nikasil, a different aluminum process. The '97 and forward cars had these blocks as well. No reported problems. If a pre-'97 car interests you, make sure the engine was replaced or your looking at a 10k job!

    Happy Motoring!
  • sysadbsysadb Posts: 83
    Tasillo - I bought my 98 in August 2000 ( with 13k miles). It now has 40k on it. I can second most of your observations.

    Those 18" tires do come at a price. The standard 16" H-rated ones are half the price, and do not wear as fast. I still have the original MXV "green" tires on mine, although I plan to replace them this summer. The ride is another issue; my dealer gave me a ride to my office in an 01 (with sport wheels) when my car was in for service, and I was turned off by the jarring ride over rough pavement compared to mine with the standard 225-60 16 inchers. The sports look great and may handle a tad better, but the cost and degraded ride make them a tradeoff decision.

    Using a dealer vs another repair shop is an option owners might look at for repairs. Personally, I'll take mine to the dealer for most problems and pay extra, but there are some items I'd have no qualms getting attended to elsewhere. The brakes are an example. The parts are surprisingly reasonable..

    I have the DSP with CD changer option on mine. I like the quality just fine, but at a $2k option price some might not be overwhelmed.

    Fuel milage on mine has been good. I get about 17 knocking around locally, and 21-24 on trips. Not bad for a 4200lb car.

  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    I agree with you guys on the 18" M-parellel sport tires. I live in the Boston area and can't justify spending the $$$ for wheels & tires that I would have on the car 5 mos. out of the year. During the winter, I would put the 16"s back on w/ snows or M+S tires. They do look nice though but the tires are expensive. Unfortunately, BMW does not recommend rotating the 16"s either.
  • brewcrew0brewcrew0 Posts: 1
    I am in the market for a 740 and after careful searching was able to locate 2 good potentials. There are both 740il's, the 1998 one has 50k miles and the 01 one has 52k miles. My question is should I be more comfortable with the 98 knowing that it only averaged 10k a year or with the 01 that averaged 25k a year??????

    The 01 has the M sport package and is listed for $30,000, and the 98 is listed for $26,000. Your help is appreciated.
  • sboothesboothe Posts: 4
    I have a '93 740i. This past week, I had the engine gasket replaced and my serviceman told me about aluminium block engines wearing out early (less than 100k miles). My vehicle has 135k miles. My serviceman told me cylinders 5 and 8 are starting to show the effects. My engine rough idles at stoplights - another indicator of wear. My serviceman told me engine replacement cost was about 12k$!!!! Ouch. I bought a BMW with the expectation of being able to drive it for 300k miles not 150k miles. My serviceman tells me I need new engine mounts as well - another $500 repair.

    Would replacing the engine mounts do anything to increase the life of an otherwise mechnically degraded block?
    Would more frequent oil changes potentially extend the existing life of the engine block?
    Would limiting the daily driving distance to 30 miles or less potentially extend the existing life (i.e., not allowing the engine to heat to critical temperature)?
    Is replacement cost really 12k$? Any feasible cheaper alternatives?
    BMW replaced some engine computers enabling higher operating temperatures. I don't know if this was done on my vehicle becasue it is third-hand? Would replacing this item potentially solve the rough-idle?
    Given that my vehicle is starting to show wear on cylinders 5 & 8 and I now have 135k mles, how rapidly might complete engine breakdown occur - could I potentially have another 75k miles usable life remaining or, lucky to see 20k miles?
    Using higher grade gas (93 octane) was suggested - would this likely extend the engine life given current degradation?

    Feeling fiscally fustrated.
  • sboothesboothe Posts: 4
    Anyone have a slightly used '93/'94 740i M60 Engine?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    and I'm shocked at what I'm reading! One of the people who works for me just acquired a 98 740i with 59,000 miles on it, and he let me drive it. I finally get what the facination is with the 7! I was so impressed with the way it drives and handles, that I am seriously thinking about getting a (new) or slightly used 7 to replace my current car in a couple of years. But I'm very disturbed at what I'm reading with what I call catastrophic problems on their 7's. I'm used to rattles and leaks, but not engine block failures, valve cover gaskets. Any comfort out there for me? Can anybody tell me they've had their 7 for years and lots of miles with little or no problems? If I can't get 65,000 miles out of a car with no significant issues, it's probably not a car for me...... But MAN, what a driver!!!!!
  • sysadbsysadb Posts: 83
    Engines can fail for a lot of reasons, especially at 135k miles. There is nothing in the BMW block construction that makes it bulletproof, and the 93-95 models especially were troublesome due to poorly designed cylinder liners. While some owners may get 300k miles from their engines before major repairs, one should not *EXPECT* to be so fortunate.

    Your quest to find a rebuilt/used engine is probably your best bet, but at some point you may want to consider whether you want to spend more on the car in repairs than it's worth.

  • sboothesboothe Posts: 4
    I've been researching information on BMW Al Blocks & feasible replacement alternatives. Found a new short block replacement for $2400 (plus add'l couple hundred for shipping). Labor estimate for replacement is 40 hours at $70 per hour. So looking more like ~$5,500 vs 12k$. MUCH Better (based on my budget). I don't need to do it RIGHT NOW. Based upon what I paid for the vehicle, how much I've invested in it since, and overall condition; I feel $5,500 is the fiscally feasible solution vs. outright salvage (run it until the engine fails).
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