I love my cavalier. But resently I've been having some problems and I'm not sure what it is. While driving on a trip and accelarating my car start making a noise that kind of sounds like an airplane. When I am driving at slower speeds not really any noise. And now yesterday while I was about to start driving my flashers flickered and my service light went on. I turned off the car and turned it back on and it was off. So drove the car home. When I started the car again and was switching the car to drive the flashers flickered again and my service light went on again. And now it is not going off. What is wrong with my car?????? :sick: :sick: :sick:
Well, I am in the supposed '44% category' of Consumer Reports, then. I am almost completely satisfied with my 2004 Cavalier which now has 6,600 miles. I guess I am just easily pleased. I am a subscriber to CR, too, so when the satisfaction results for 2005 comes out, I will be one of the satisfied.
'Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc.' people get too brainwashed with their stories of their "wonderful Japanese" cars. But, we all have our opinions. :shades:
I took loving care of my old '92 Cavalier (bought new). Much highway cruising. Frequent washing. Very few sudden starts/stops. Oil/filter every 3K w/o fail. Major dealer-performed tune-ups every 15K, and all the rest of normal preventive maintenance on time or early.
I would have to say my experience was mixed at best -- the most significant problem being a leaking head gasket at 50K (replaced at considerable cost), and then again at 106K (when I gave up). Other weaknesses--the paint failed early and badly, the power locks broke repeatedly (both under and after warranty), rust set in earlier than I would have expected (especially since I had it Ziebarted when new). Other than that it was pretty normal. Replaced alternator and exhaust once each, replaced brakes and struts twice each as well as some other relatively minor suspension repairs over 106K and 13 yrs.
I was considering buying a Cavalier myself but bought a 2001 Toyota Echo instead (Ziebarted too )
At 110k miles everything is still working. The front brake pads were replaced although the old ones still had 30% useful life left. No coolant leaks or rust whatsoever. No rattles or unusual noises.
The only Cavalier I have driven was one loaned to me for a week, while fixing a mysterious electrical problem with my Chev. K1500 had (did not leave me stranded). Great gas mileage (33 MPG) and very comfortable.
I've been lucky with GM. My 91 Caprice went past 300k with only minor problems and my pickup truck never fails.
If your check engine light is staying on, take it to the dealership and have them hook up to the on board computer. If your car is just under five years old and under 100000 miles, it should only cost you around $80. The computer is considered part of the polution control. Your computer may have dropped it's programming. That may sound funny, but it happened to me and my 98 Z24. The car still ran like a champ. The dealership couldn't understand why it was still running so well. Try this and see if it doesn't fix your problem.
Because its the best car for the money, and does a great job being what it was built for and thats an econobox. Magazines, media and those so called car reviewers have crapped on the car for years, and while the car has been improving constantly the media gave it a bad stigma. I work as an auto tech (although not at a dealership so we dont see warranty stuff) and considering there is more cavaliers on the road then just about any other car, we dont see many coming here for repairs, most are for maintenence.
The cars did have problems, 95-96 2.2L engine did have a head gasket issue. But a head casket job on those cars is cake and can be done in a little more time then it takes to change a timing belt on an import. Blower motor resistor is also crap on these cars and goes south fairly regularly, but again its a $30 dealer part that can be replaced by anyone with minimal mechanical knowledge and a 10 dollar tool kit from wallmart.
To me the problems with the Cavalier are minor. I dont read car reviews by CR or other car reviewers often, and I don't put much faith into generic reliability ratings, and too me CRs sample base is way too low to have meaningful and accurate numbers.
The best advice you can get on any car is from someone who had owned it for a good period of time and if they are satisfied with it. This speaks for all cars and not just Cavaliers.
I own 2 Cavaliers, a 2000 2.2L 5spd manual which i bought new, so far other then oil changes and a set of pads I replaced the serpentine belt tensioner, idler pulley and blower resistor. The car is at 86k mi atm and runs like a champ. I also have a 97 2.2L 4spd auto that i bought in 2003 at 61k miles. I replaced the alternator, both rear coilovers and again the blower motor resistor. This car is nearing 100k and still runs great.
There are a few screws holding the console in. One is in the storage area in the front part of the console past the cup holders. You need to pry up the circular plastic piece to acecess it. The other screws are in the storage compartment/arm rest thing, open it up and remove the screws. There may also be some under the coin box/power window swithches if u have PWs, though im not sure, that piece can be popped out easily too.
I own a 2005, and a 1996, always had good luck with the 96, that's why i bought a 05. my wife likes to drive the 96, so after 118k on the car, I had a new engine, trans, clutch, and new tires on it, to the tune of $ 3400.00, she was rear ended, and the damage was in the range of $ 1400.00, now the insurance co. wants to total the car and give me almost nothing, I'M STILL FIGHTING WITH THEM.
I really appreciate the support I am getting from other satisfied Cavalier owners.
In particular, the input from krism is a really great example of the sort of positive and helpful information that is often missing from these discussions.
In any case, it's been a pleasure to see some activity on this board for a change!
sport4, I am very sorry for your apparent loss. Hope you are able to leverage something from your insurance.
>>The cars did have problems, 95-96 2.2L engine did have a head gasket issue. But a head casket job on those cars is cake and can be done in a little more time then it takes to change a timing belt on an import. <<
I see you have done the gasket. I did my 94 2.2 and it cost me $15 for the head gasket and oil and filter, 40K later when I traded it still no leaks. I'm not a believer in bolt replace at gasket change, I have done too many with out replacing the bolts. I get into a lot of arguments over reusing the bolts from techs.
I own three Cavaliers. They have a dated appearance but are very reliable. My 1996 Cavalier has 184,000 miles on it. I have not had any really major repairs done to it. All my Cavaliers have been good to me. They are very reliable. They are also very affordable. I am very disappointed they are discontinuing the model.
"believe that is mostly the result of the brainwashing that occurs after years of media inattention, and finally abuse, that is usually given to any proven design that doesn't give the media very much new to talk about from year to year, over a long lifespan"
That is Priceless! What the heck, lets bring back the escort.
Thanks Chevygrl28 for the suggestion. This miss is intermittent. Generally runs good 98% of the time but when it runs bad, it runs bad. I don't think it is the fuel. I hooked up a timing light to each plug wire and notice that the miss is on #2 and sometimes on #3. Replaced coil but no change. I have heard suggestions that it is the DIS module on which the coils ride. Any clue? thanks again for your suggestion and I will look into it.
My check engine light is on and the computer you plug into the car says that the crankshaft sensor is going out and I could use a little bit of written help from someone who knows how to replace it since the Haynes and the Chilton are not very creditable books so if you know please help me out it is a 98 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter four cylinder
Its located on the rear of the engine about 5 inches to the left of the oil filter. There are 2 sensors there right nest to each other, the first and closest to the oil filter is the crank position sensor, the one next to it is the knock sensor.
Jack the car up or put it on a lift, if you have the manual transaxle then replacing it is easy. Auto tansaxles will be a PITA because the auto is much larger and takes up a lot of room down in that area.
i have a 1995 chevrolet cavalier rs and it has 195, 000 miles on it current to date. it needs to have an exhaust system replaced and i was wondering how much it cost and if anybody know how much or hwere to find a new engine to put in the car. i like because its small and easy to park with great pcik up.
My check engine stays on & went to have it checked out & got the P1870 code which is transmission slipping. Had it checked to see if it had any metal shavings & there were none & even had the screen changed with new oil. The car has over a $100,000 miles BUT it's running really good now that I had the screen changed because it was slipping a little bit.
The problem is that I can't pass inspection because of that sensor box. I have a buddy that knows cars really good & told me if I can find out where the sensor box is located he could get rid of the light. In hopes I can pass state inspection. He said that the manufactuerers do a really good job these days of hiding those boxes.
I figured this Cavalier board would be full of reliability debates. But can anyone help me out here? Does anyone know where the cabin air filter is in a '94 Cavalier, if there even is one? I know in a lot of cars it seems to be behind the glove box, but does anyone know where it could be in my car? It's never been replaced, and I use the vent a lot, so I'd really appreciate some help. Thanks, guys.
I have owned 2 Cavalier LS (1996 & 1999) and I had this problem and typically it was that the gas cap wasn't fully tightened. I suggest you check that and then restart the car. It should go away after doing that. If not, take it back to the dealer as it would most likely fall under your warranty.
For the past year I have been driving around unable to see the odometer as the LCD lighting is no more. Has anyone else experienced this? I refuse to repair it because the dash needs to be removed and shipped to be fixed so that the mileage is recorded.
That won't work, the light has to come on when the key is turned to run to see if the light functions. They all ready thought of the light being disabled.
For the introduction of the Cobalt, The Cobalt keeps the cavalier alive with is engine. It uses the same 2.2L Ecotec with 145Hp. Unless you get the cobalt SS, that has a 2.0L Ecotec with an Eaton M62 Supercharger, putting out 205 Hp.
Its still a beautiful new addition to the GM Family i think.
Hi everyone, I have a quick question for you. I have a 1997 Chevy Cavalier Convertible that I recently had work done on. As soon as I drove it off the lot, I experienced the same problems and the problem persists after visiting there again and having more work done. Please, someone help. Whenever the car is at a stop and I press the accelerator, the engine stalls 1-3 times and then starts going. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to be concerned. It starts to pull, then decides it's not going to, then pulls, and sometimes repeats this process. No matter how slowly I apply the accelerator, the car usually jerks forcefully. It has gone from almost being dead to spinning the wheels. Twice it has even gone dead on me when I started to accelerate. Periodically (every few weeks) the check engine light will come on, stay on for a week or so, and then go off. The car did this before, but hadn't done it in 3 years. The last time it was fixed, the guy casually mentioned two wires that were going to an inoperable security device which was apparently applying the incorrect voltage and causing problems with another part of the system. The problem abated after that guy fixed it...until now when the guys likely re-attached the two wires without thinking twice about it. Does anyone know where these wires would likely be located, how to tell them apart from other wires, and/or how much it would cost to pay a mechanic to figure it out?
Thanks for the comment. When I took it to the dealership to get the tires rotated, they mentioned that it may be the gas cap. Actually, though, something did have to be replaced, but when I asked the service guy what it was, he said he did not know what they had done to it. Since then, the light has not come on and I now have over 7,000 miles. I am still very satisfied with the car.
Do you have the electronic instrument cluster? I mean is the odometer LCD or the old rotating wheel type? If its LCD then it shouldn't have to be shipped anywhere. The milage of the vehicle is stored in the cars computer not the cluster. The LCD simpy displays the milage, nothing more. The cluster just has to be replaced. No matter if the replacement cluster is from a wreck with 100k miles or a new unit, it will display your vehicles actual milage. You could probably get a new cluster from a salvage yard for less then $50. Any cluster 99 and up will work, even out of a sunfire provided its electronic.
If you have the old style mechanical odometer then yes you have to do all they say its needed as the cluster itself keeps the cars milage and states require the milage be recorded on the replacement unit.
The instrument cluster in the 1999 Cavalier LS was a mechanical odometer and speedometer. I do not remember any digital dashes in the third generation Cavalier. The 1980's Cavaliers could have one if you ordered it as an option for the Cavalier RS. It was standard on the Z24. I say this because when I owned a 1986 Cavalier RS, it had the full digital dash. I do agree with krism that you will have to return it for repair since it is a mechanical odometer. The laws the law about milage being recorded correctly on the car.
Youre right, they dont have digital clusters. Although either in 99 or 00 they did go from mechanical to digital display odometer. Im assuming the poster has a digital one since even with a backlight out he still would be able to read the milage.
This could really be anywhere. Aftermarket alarms are normally mounted under the steering column somewhere with plastic straps. They ahave a bunch of wires going from them up the steering column and are spliced into the oem wires going up the column. They way to tell those wires is to take the column cover of to acces the wiring. What you are likely to see is a wire going up the steering column with another wire going right to it in the middle, with it all being covered with electrical tape. Taking the tape off will reveal the original wire with about 1 inch section of insulation missing and the alarm wire would be woundup around it. This is just for information. DON'T go ripping into it since airbag wires are also in there. Have a qualified technician do this. Airbags are expensive to replace and can cause some serious injury if they go off while working in their vicinity. An experienced tech will spot/distinguish between cars original wiring and alarm wires very quickly.
Does the electical power go out or dim when the car jerks like that? If thats the case then its probably a bad engine/tanny ground strap. Will the engine stall/sputter when the transmission is not in gear or does it only do it if its in gear? Does it do it when engine is cold or after warmup?
My odometer is a digital display and the speedometer is mechanical.
I really wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this problem. I saw a recall for backlighting, but I'm not sure if this is that issue or if it is the LCD display or are they the same. :confuse:
Hi my cavalier wont start it will turn over but wont start.. All the lights such as the ABS, water, brake, seat belt lights are on, after i tried to start the car and it wouldnt start the THEFT LIGHT came on. Can anyone help me out here..... THANKS
Is anyone aware of any issues with CD-Rs and the standard CD player that comes with the 2005 Cavalier Coupe VL. I just picked mine up last Friday (thoroughly enjoyed driving it over my old beat up 1988 Hyundai). I have tried various brands of CD-Rs and none of them work. I'm thinking the CD player is defective.... Any comments?
I have a 2005 Cavalier with the "Up Level" factory radio. I believe the CD player would be the same as yours. I have had no problems playing any of my commercial CDs or the CD-Rs I have created myself from ripped sources. Do you see any read-out at all on the dial after you insert a CD?
I assume you know that CD-RWs will not play on the "Base Level" or "Up Level" radios, only on the over-priced MP3 version of this radio.
I have a 2004 Cavalier LS with the CD Player and AM/FM Radio. (It's not the MP3 CD Player Upgrade though.) I have played various CD-R's and they have all worked fine.
Sorry, but the forum won't allow me to post a new topic for some reason. Could someone please help me. I bought a used 2004 chevy cavalier. It has no manual. Where is the dipstick for the transmission fluid? I can't find it. Please send me an e-mail at billienv@yahoo.com if you can help me. Thanks so much! Have a great day!!
It has no dip stick, it has a check plug, you need to have the car lifted, level and running to check. >> Where is the dipstick for the transmission fluid?<<
Um, that's exactly what he was doing, speaking for himself, just as you spoke for yourself the other day. There are Cavaliers that don't have problems - you had a bad one, yes. Other bad ones exist/ed, yes. But it's not across the board, of course.
Why don't you go outside to play in your Mazda discussions now.
I know that my local dealership has 3 remaining Cavalier's and are not receiving any more with the replacement of the Cobalt. Out of curiosity, though, has GM quit producing the Cavalier yet? I know they are soon if they already haven't.
PS-I have a 2004 Cavalier LS that I am completely enjoying.
Comments
'Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc.' people get too brainwashed with their stories of their "wonderful Japanese" cars. But, we all have our opinions. :shades:
I would have to say my experience was mixed at best -- the most significant problem being a leaking head gasket at 50K (replaced at considerable cost), and then again at 106K (when I gave up). Other weaknesses--the paint failed early and badly, the power locks broke repeatedly (both under and after warranty), rust set in earlier than I would have expected (especially since I had it Ziebarted when new). Other than that it was pretty normal. Replaced alternator and exhaust once each, replaced brakes and struts twice each as well as some other relatively minor suspension repairs over 106K and 13 yrs.
At 110k miles everything is still working. The front brake pads were replaced although the old ones still had 30% useful life left. No coolant leaks or rust whatsoever. No rattles or unusual noises.
The only Cavalier I have driven was one loaned to me for a week, while fixing a mysterious electrical problem with my Chev. K1500 had (did not leave me stranded).
Great gas mileage (33 MPG) and very comfortable.
I've been lucky with GM. My 91 Caprice went past 300k with only minor problems and my pickup truck never fails.
That may sound funny, but it happened to me and my 98 Z24. The car still ran like a champ. The dealership couldn't understand why it was still running so well. Try this and see if it doesn't fix your problem.
Because its the best car for the money, and does a great job being what it was built for and thats an econobox. Magazines, media and those so called car reviewers have crapped on the car for years, and while the car has been improving constantly the media gave it a bad stigma. I work as an auto tech (although not at a dealership so we dont see warranty stuff) and considering there is more cavaliers on the road then just about any other car, we dont see many coming here for repairs, most are for maintenence.
The cars did have problems, 95-96 2.2L engine did have a head gasket issue. But a head casket job on those cars is cake and can be done in a little more time then it takes to change a timing belt on an import. Blower motor resistor is also crap on these cars and goes south fairly regularly, but again its a $30 dealer part that can be replaced by anyone with minimal mechanical knowledge and a 10 dollar tool kit from wallmart.
To me the problems with the Cavalier are minor. I dont read car reviews by CR or other car reviewers often, and I don't put much faith into generic reliability ratings, and too me CRs sample base is way too low to have meaningful and accurate numbers.
The best advice you can get on any car is from someone who had owned it for a good period of time and if they are satisfied with it. This speaks for all cars and not just Cavaliers.
I own 2 Cavaliers, a 2000 2.2L 5spd manual which i bought new, so far other then oil changes and a set of pads I replaced the serpentine belt tensioner, idler pulley and blower resistor. The car is at 86k mi atm and runs like a champ.
I also have a 97 2.2L 4spd auto that i bought in 2003 at 61k miles. I replaced the alternator, both rear coilovers and again the blower motor resistor. This car is nearing 100k and still runs great.
In particular, the input from krism is a really great example of the sort of positive and helpful information that is often missing from these discussions.
In any case, it's been a pleasure to see some activity on this board for a change!
sport4, I am very sorry for your apparent loss. Hope you are able to leverage something from your insurance.
I see you have done the gasket. I did my 94 2.2 and it cost me $15 for the head gasket and oil and filter, 40K later when I traded it still no leaks. I'm not a believer in bolt replace at gasket change, I have done too many with out replacing the bolts. I get into a lot of arguments over reusing the bolts from techs.
That is Priceless! What the heck, lets bring back the escort.
I hooked up a timing light to each plug wire and notice that the miss is on #2 and sometimes on #3. Replaced coil but no change. I have heard suggestions that it is the DIS module on which the coils ride. Any clue? thanks again for your suggestion and I will look into it.
Jack the car up or put it on a lift, if you have the manual transaxle then replacing it is easy. Auto tansaxles will be a PITA because the auto is much larger and takes up a lot of room down in that area.
is transmission slipping. Had it checked to see if it had any metal shavings & there
were none & even had the screen changed with new oil. The car has over a $100,000
miles BUT it's running really good now that I had the screen changed because it was
slipping a little bit.
The problem is that I can't pass inspection because of that sensor box. I have a buddy
that knows cars really good & told me if I can find out where the sensor box is located
he could get rid of the light. In hopes I can pass state inspection. He said that the
manufactuerers do a really good job these days of hiding those boxes.
But can anyone help me out here? Does anyone know where the cabin air filter is in a '94 Cavalier, if there even is one? I know in a lot of cars it seems to be behind the glove box, but does anyone know where it could be in my car? It's never been replaced, and I use the vent a lot, so I'd really appreciate some help. Thanks, guys.
Its still a beautiful new addition to the GM Family i think.
Whenever the car is at a stop and I press the accelerator, the engine stalls 1-3 times and then starts going. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to be concerned. It starts to pull, then decides it's not going to, then pulls, and sometimes repeats this process. No matter how slowly I apply the accelerator, the car usually jerks forcefully. It has gone from almost being dead to spinning the wheels. Twice it has even gone dead on me when I started to accelerate. Periodically (every few weeks) the check engine light will come on, stay on for a week or so, and then go off.
The car did this before, but hadn't done it in 3 years. The last time it was fixed, the guy casually mentioned two wires that were going to an inoperable security device which was apparently applying the incorrect voltage and causing problems with another part of the system. The problem abated after that guy fixed it...until now when the guys likely re-attached the two wires without thinking twice about it. Does anyone know where these wires would likely be located, how to tell them apart from other wires, and/or how much it would cost to pay a mechanic to figure it out?
Since then, the light has not come on and I now have over 7,000 miles. I am still very satisfied with the car.
If you have the old style mechanical odometer then yes you have to do all they say its needed as the cluster itself keeps the cars milage and states require the milage be recorded on the replacement unit.
The instrument cluster in the 1999 Cavalier LS was a mechanical odometer and speedometer. I do not remember any digital dashes in the third generation Cavalier.
The 1980's Cavaliers could have one if you ordered it as an option for the Cavalier RS. It was standard on the Z24. I say this because when I owned a 1986 Cavalier RS, it had the full digital dash.
I do agree with krism that you will have to return it for repair since it is a mechanical odometer. The laws the law about milage being recorded correctly on the car.
They way to tell those wires is to take the column cover of to acces the wiring. What you are likely to see is a wire going up the steering column with another wire going right to it in the middle, with it all being covered with electrical tape. Taking the tape off will reveal the original wire with about 1 inch section of insulation missing and the alarm wire would be woundup around it. This is just for information. DON'T go ripping into it since airbag wires are also in there. Have a qualified technician do this. Airbags are expensive to replace and can cause some serious injury if they go off while working in their vicinity.
An experienced tech will spot/distinguish between cars original wiring and alarm wires very quickly.
Does the electical power go out or dim when the car jerks like that? If thats the case then its probably a bad engine/tanny ground strap. Will the engine stall/sputter when the transmission is not in gear or does it only do it if its in gear?
Does it do it when engine is cold or after warmup?
I really wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this problem. I saw a recall for backlighting, but I'm not sure if this is that issue or if it is the LCD display or are they the same. :confuse:
THANKS
Is anyone aware of any issues with CD-Rs and the standard CD player that comes with the 2005 Cavalier Coupe VL. I just picked mine up last Friday (thoroughly enjoyed driving it over my old beat up 1988 Hyundai). I have tried various brands of CD-Rs and none of them work. I'm thinking the CD player is defective.... Any comments?
I assume you know that CD-RWs will not play on the "Base Level" or "Up Level" radios, only on the over-priced MP3 version of this radio.
Have a great day!!
>> Where is the dipstick for the transmission fluid?<<
There is a lot of value in sharing our views, experiences and knowledge regarding the much-maligned (seldom deserved), but long-lived Cavalier.
Why don't you go outside to play in your Mazda discussions now.
PS-I have a 2004 Cavalier LS that I am completely enjoying.