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Chrysler Concorde

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  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    You can also check out Ebay for them too.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Hello, I am from the 300M board (if you haven't guessed by my name). We are working on a group Purchase of HID conversion kits, for $340. The kit would consist of 2 HID bulbs, 2 Ballists, Harnesses and intructions. Since your cars use the same bulbs I am putting this here if you are interested. The company that is doing it is www.midnightmoose.com But for getting on the list go to www.300Mclub.org for more info, or contact me at 300M@eboxmail.net If you decide to purchase the company will bill you do not send any money to me or the company until contacted.
    Thanks, a Fellow LH owner.
  • kendrasuejoneskendrasuejones Member Posts: 15
    I like what I read about the Dunlop SP Sport A-2.
    Thanks for the input; will report later about their performance.
  • yabadayabada Member Posts: 19
    Yesterday I decided to change the battery in my Concorde `98. THIS IS UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
    I have to take off the front wheel to get access to the battery!!!
    At the beginning I tried to remove the air filter
    case but then I asked a guy from Autozone to help me and he told me how to do it.
    Anybody else noticed that?
    I didn`t find any message about it but I read a lot how the engineers in Chrysler had smartly designed everything under the hood. Everything???
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    Yeah, the battery is not in the most convenient place for inspection or removal. I recall the thought was that by isolating the battery from the heat of the engine bay would result in a longer life span.
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    Earlier, when I was having starting problems I took it to Sears to test the charging system.
    They offered to test the charging system for $10. As they were entering the vehicle make/model on their computer, during check-in, they said their computer says that accessing this battery is a complex task and will cost me $30 instead of $10. It was still cheaper than the dealer estimate of $50.
    As far as lifespan is concerned, my first battery broke down suddenly at 28000 miles and the vehicle had to be towed.
    I have also read in the 300M posts that the wheel need not be removed. Someone mentioned that the wheels need to be rotated completely to the left. The access panel can then be opened. Now remove the air filter case. Pull the battery thru the wheel access panel and then lift it from the top.
  • njeraldnjerald Member Posts: 689
    Try Yokohama YK420's. P225/55R-17 95V B. Treadwear 420, Traction A, Temperature A. 65,000 mile wear warranty. All better than the Avids. Discounttire.com.

    $120 ea installed with lifetime balancing.

    Avid's will cost you about $105 delivered.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    You could have taken the battery out from under the airfilter, thats how we do it at the plant. We never take the tire off, way to much work.
  • rrmanrrman Member Posts: 21
    I see LOTs of Dodge Intrepid's around, and notice more 300Ms than Concordes. At the Davis Monthan AFB Lodging parking lot last week there were 3 300Ms. The Chrysler dealers always have a 300M on the lot, but not always a Concorde. I favored the Concorde as it was cheaper and I didn't care for the $$$ and "chopped" off 300M trunk. But I'm curious as to how my tastes compare 'popularity ' wise.
    Just a percentage estimate will satisfy me - they all come from the same plant. I'm sure the Intrepid is the winner, but how do the Chrysler's compare?
    Thanks!
  • yabadayabada Member Posts: 19
    I went to Autozone store today to check the battery and replace it if neccessary, but first I read the manual. It says to turn the wheels all the way RIGHT, remove the panel in the fender, remove the air filter and slide the battery thru the opened fender. It took me an hour to remove the battery and another one to install it back.
    Autozone check and recharge the battery for free
    but the work was pretty tough. It should be easier than this to replace the battery!
  • hysterwvhysterwv Member Posts: 5
    Kendra,

    I feel your pain with the "badyears". I'm in sales and drive over 1,000 miles a week on my Michelin Rainforce tires. They are great riding tires are much quiter than the stock tires. I currently have 50,000 miles on them and they've got at least another 20,000 left to them.

    Good Luck
  • yabadayabada Member Posts: 19
    Recently I had some unexplained problems with starting the engine (see my post #843) a few days ago I went to Autozone (see post #861) and test my battery that appeared to be good but the connectors were extremely corroded which I cleaned. The location of the battery is pretty unfortunate!? The problem with starting the engine - "gone. Where is it? Don't know. You good, oh yeah you damn good" ( "Analyze This")
  • bassthumperbassthumper Member Posts: 2
    Last night my '98 concorde lxi w/ 64k miles went nuts. My wife says first the check engine light came on and the car stopped. After resting, the car started and ran briefly before the oil light came on followed by the check engine light. I'm hoping it's only an oil pump. Thoughts??
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    The Allpar site has procedures for retrieving and decoding the check engine light codes.

    http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html

    Hope it is only the pump!
  • jester72jester72 Member Posts: 1
    Is there any way to tell, either from the VIN or other distinguishing characteristics, if my 1997 Concorde was originally equipped with the keyless entry system? I purchased the car about 7 months ago and have been very happy with it, but miss the keyless entry system my previous cars have had.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    Try sending a query via the Contact Us link on the www.budbrown.com site. This dealer has been very good about promptly responding to me on similar questions. Be sure to include the VIN in your message.
  • moriczmoricz Member Posts: 2
    Hi!
    I have a problem with some checking lights on the control panel. When I am starting the engine yellow colored engine checking light doesn`t turn on at all, but the air bag light doesn`t turn off during 30-60 seconds after engine is started. Does anybody know what it means and where the problem is? Thank you!
  • jcijci Member Posts: 1
    I bought an a/c recharge kit, but the owner's manual doesn't show where the a/c unit is. Does anyone know how to get to the a/c ports to recharge and meter the unit? Is this something that needs to be done on a lift? Thanks.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    On the 3.2 they are right on top on the right side. So I'm guessing that you have the 2.7? If so maybe someone else knows where they are.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    I was sitting in a parking lot in my Concorde LTD listening to a CD (Dave Matthews Band) when I discovered...

    Steering wheel mounted audio controls!

    They are on the back side of the steering wheel behind the cruise control pods.

    I just ran out of complaints for this car!
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    Just wait till you drive your Buick without them.
    I got so used to using them I hate to drive my other car or truck. I was never one to fiddle with the stereo while driving but with this car I am constantly playing around.
    Any non gvmt mods yet? :>)
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Actually, my Buick has EVERY amenity you can think of (including steering wheel audio controls). That's what spoiled me!

    No mods yet (do wig-wags and siren count?). Actually, I'm pretty satisfied with the car right from the factory and I doubt I'll do any aftermarket mods...except for some better tires when the Michelins wear out?

    BTW, I posted on the 300M board that even the stereo sounds half-way decent now. After a couple of months of break-in, the high end has warmed a little and the bass has tightened up. Still not "premium sound", but it's satisfactory.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    be very careful, you will be dealing with very hi pressures. I hope you are not using any of the freon based products, or you will really screw up your system.
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    Just sold my 94 Concorde. (piece of crap) Sorry for all you mopar lovers but this car's engineering sucks. Aside from having a good engine the rest was lousy. I've fixed/experienced almost everything on that car. The front suspension is too special. Be ready to fork out the buck if you don't want it to rattle and wobble. The climate control unit (electronic) is also a piece of crap. The dealer wanted to sell me a replacement part for $400.00. Turns out that after tinkering with it for so long it's just a cold solder (very small but you can see it). My sister and a friend had the same scenario on their Concordes and I fixed it for them. They never had a problem since. The emergency brake pads keep un-gluing. They (94, 95,and 96 models) all rust at the very same spot... you know where.... on the tip of the hood (very classic case). Oh! Let's not forget the A/C. Dang thing worked for the first two years and kept leaking since. I can go on and on. I tend to consider myself an expert when it comes to this model 'cause believe me I've experienced it. I got rid of it because I spent more time underneath it rather than inside it and the funny thing is... my sister has a 96 Concorde and guess what ... I'm still underneath it and she has the exact same issues. Sorry for being winded on this. I just had to get it off my chest.
  • centarforcentarfor Member Posts: 22
    I am thinking of buying a 2002 Concorde with 30,000 kms (LX).. how reliable is this car? What are some of the problems that often happen? Thnx in advance.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Well, it's rare to see something like this for sale (other than the 01' M this past summer), but a local used car dealer has a 1998 Chrysler Concorde LXI limo for $14,995. This would be quite an interesting buy, especially as a normal, everyday car. It would be kind of cool though...wonder how it drives (i.e. really noisy like most stock 98's?).


    Take a look at the ad:

    http://community.webshots.com/photo/12315199/52282554EIlLPP

  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Generally, yes, the newer Concordes are reliable vehicles. Since intro in 98', common issues include things like excessive interior noise (not a problem, just annoying), shrinking weatherstripping, transmission sensors, electro/light problems, and a few others. But, with the 01's and 02's, most, if not all, of these things are cleared up and shouldn't be much of a problem.

    So, generally speaking, you should be pretty safe with a 2002.
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    Hi everyone...
    My sister has a 96 with a 3.3 and she notices that her lights dim (blink) along with a lowered idle speed every 5 to 10 seconds. I too noticed that her cooling fans momentarily turn on and off thus creating the dimming of the lights. I changed the cooling sensor (near the thermostat housing) and it still does it. She also has an erratic idling (all the way up to 2000rpm) I changed the AIS motor and it still won't idle normally. Any comments are welcome.
  • 96lxi130k96lxi130k Member Posts: 7
    Hi all,

    I recently purchased a 1996 Concorde LXi with about 130k on it for 2000 bucks from a private seller and it seems to be a pretty nice car. I totaled my 2000 Taurus SEL and have only ever driven Ford's but I wanted something inexpensive and easy to drive and this car seems to be it. There are a few things I've had to do since taking ownership on it which I figured I'd talk about just to see if other owners have had to deal with these issues. I've replaced the brake light switch and the battery on it so far. This car needs a new ATC module because the heater fan runs all the time. It shakes horribly between 50 and 60 mph when you're on the accelerator and originally the Chrysler dealer diagnosed it as a bad drive shaft. I took it in for a state inspection and after a closer look they've deduced that the bushings on the tie rod end on the front left side all need to be replaced as well as the engine cradle mounts. The dealer believes that after these are replaced the shaking will stop. The weather stripping on both front doors needs to be replaced. Unfortunately someone had the bright idea of gluing the original strips to the doors and there are goops of dried glue that need to be removed before the strips can be replaced. I also had the remote keyless entry programmed for it and had to add the cupholders (it's the 60/40 seating without the center console) that are attached to the armrests on the front seats. The car also has some rust on the corner of the hood above the left headlamp and some scratches on the trunk. For the most part though the paint is in great shape.

    For 2000 bucks I can't complain. The car runs great and the transmission seems to be flawless. It has just about all the available options on it (moonroof, CD, leather, dual power seats, dual airbags, ABS) and after Weds when the dealer fixes all of the above mentioned problems I'll have put about an additional 1200 in it to get it up to snuff. I was just wondering if these were common problems for this year/model so I don't feel so bad for putting the money into them. If anyone can think of anything else at 130k that would be a good idea to check I'd appreciate the heads up. Thanks!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    A few things I would do now are change the trans and differential oil. Who knows if they have ever been done .Use ATF+4 for the trans, this is the latest and best oil . Next I would imagine the car has the 3.5 , if so has the timing belt ever been changed ? Most manufactures say around 100 K is the time to change the timing belt.If this has never been done I would give this a very high priority . Spend a little money now and save a lot in the long run on a engine job. Also if you are going to change the timing belt I would also replace the water pump at the same time. Only a couple of extra bolts and a few extra $$ can save you down the road. As for the ATC and fan blowing all the time check to make sure that the Blower motor power module is ok before changing the ATC head unit.The power module costs way less than a control unit so check that out. Other than that I hope you enjoy your LH car . Take care
    OTTO
  • 96lxi130k96lxi130k Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the heads-up. It does have the 3.5 and I'm going to assume the timing belt has not been done. I'm definately willing to invest time and (some) money into this car to get it running smoothly. Thanks for the info...
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    I believe I can help with your ATC. Check for cold solders. This is quite common. You will notice that they are barely visible but they are indeed broken (contact). I fixed three ATCs and they all had the same problem.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    <<the bushings on the tie rod end on the front left side all need to be replaced as well as the engine cradle mounts>>
    This sounds pretty normal for the 1st gen Concordes with that much mileage.
    <<some rust on the corner of the hood above the left headlamp>>
    as well as this rust area.
  • 96lxi130k96lxi130k Member Posts: 7
    Canayjun64 you're not the first one I've heard that from regarding the ATC so I will definately take a look at the solders first.

    Frito thanks I wanted to make sure. It's going in Thursday for those 2 so I can get the pass inspection sticker on it from Pennsylvania.

    I have one more question for everyone. It's about the weatherstrips on the front doors. Is there any info on replacing these things? I have the strips but I've mentioned how poorly the previous owner tried to attach the strips and they really are ripped to shreds. There are also some dried goops of glue which I'll have to remove but I wanted to know if there is a certain way (more like a CORRECT way) of attaching these things. I can't find anything on the web and I'd prefer to do them myself if possible.

    Thanks again for your help folks it is GREATLY appreciated.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    You may be able to remove the old glue with a hair dryer and some 'goo gone' solvent? There is supposed to be a 3M adhesive product for remounting rubber parts to metal -- check with auto parts store for the exact product name.
  • frank58frank58 Member Posts: 54
    I noticed on several occasions that the passenger front carpet was damp. I didn't give much thought to it other than it seemed strange.

    Yesterday after a rain storm out here I went to pull the car out from my parking spot. I noticed some moisture on the floor mats. When I looked over at the door the front window speaker had water leaking from it. The first thing I did was confirm that the window was all the way up and it was.

    Anyone else see this issue? Seems like a weird spot but it must be coming from the window somehow and leaking behind that speaker.

    Thanks
    Frank
  • perplexed1perplexed1 Member Posts: 2
    I am an owner of a Tracker and absolutely love it. I however have had surgey on my leg and cannot drive my Tracker..Need something more roomy in the drivers seat and cannot climb into an SUV no matter what the size...
    I went to a dealer today and saw a 99 Concorde LXI for 9999 with 76K miles. I am really concerned about the mileage but after going through ads on the net the mileage on this car is really the norm.
    I have a couple of ??
    Has anyone experienced any serious probs with the 99 Concorde??
    Concerned that an extended warranty will only cover up 100k miles.
    Read prev discussions about brake probs. Is anyone still having probs with brakes...
    And...lastly....Is the car worth the price or purchase with that amount of miles on it???

    Thank you so much for your time to answer. I do want to close thw deal tommorrow pm...Thanks again

    Oh and one last ?? The shift is on the steering wheel and the pictures I see in yahoo they are on the floor for the LXi...Does anyone know why this one is different??????

    Perplexxedddddd1
  • will33will33 Member Posts: 1
    Someone mentioned about gaskets that had been glued on and also about leaking seals causing floor to be saturated with water. I found the Tech Service Bulletin (TSB) on the alldata.com website. This problem was acknowleged and a TSB was issued on august of '98. the tsb # is 23-29-98A. there are 84 other bulletin issues listed here. It sounds like most of these problems have been resolved with the newer models.
  • perplexed1perplexed1 Member Posts: 2
    Would appreciate it if someone will answer my posting below......I wrote this am...

    Thanks for taking the time

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    PLEASE HELP NEED INSIGHT ON 99 CONCORDE LXI by perplexed1 Nov 13, 2002 (04:47 am)

    I am an owner of a Tracker and absolutely love it. I however have had surgey on my leg and cannot drive my Tracker..Need something more roomy in the drivers seat and cannot climb into an SUV no matter what the size...
    I went to a dealer today and saw a 99 Concorde LXI for 9999 with 76K miles. I am really concerned about the mileage but after going through ads on the net the mileage on this car is really the norm.
    I have a couple of ??
    Has anyone experienced any serious probs with the 99 Concorde??
    Concerned that an extended warranty will only cover up 100k miles.
    Read prev discussions about brake probs. Is anyone still having probs with brakes...
    And...lastly....Is the car worth the price or purchase with that amount of miles on it???

    Thank you so much for your time to answer. I do want to close thw deal tommorrow pm...Thanks again

    Oh and one last ?? The shift is on the steering wheel and the pictures I see in yahoo they are on the floor for the LXi...Does anyone know why this one is different??????

    Perplexxedddddd1
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    My 99 LXi has been great - only few minor probs. The speed sensors on the auto tranny seem to fail at least once but this is relatively inexpensive fix.
    The column shifter models are 6 passenger -- there is an extra lap belt for someone (smallish) to sit in the middle of the front seat. Otherwise there is no difference between these and the console shifter models.

    10K for 76K mi seems a bit high but not much and yes at least have the brakes (pads & rotors) evaluated for % of life remaining.
  • rjc10rjc10 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 98 Concorde Lxi with 56000k. Have a
    small leak in A/C system that no one can find. It
    has been checked four times with dye and recharged
    only to leak out in 1000 to 5000 miles. Have had
    dash pulled out to check behind and still no leak.
    If anyone has any solution, I would really
    appreciate it.
  • pevapeva Member Posts: 42
    Bad evaporators appear to be a common problem for LH cars (at least before 2000) (go to http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/ and do a search on "evaporator"). It looks like, even though it is a common problem, you will most likely have to pay for it yourself (around $1000 parts & labor) unless your dealer admits it is a common problem, and even then, it may be your nickel. I assume you have no extended warranty?
  • robw64robw64 Member Posts: 76
    I currently own an '01 Concorde, and had a '96 Intrepid before it. The A/C went out on my Intrepid, requiring an evaporator replacement. By calling Chrysler Customer Care in Auburn Hills I only had to pay for labor (about $400 or so). A young woman I worked with here in Orlando had the same problem with her Eagle Vision about 5 months later and Chrysler Customer Care covered all costs.

    I would recommend calling Chrysler before doing anything. This is a known problem, and if you cite TSB numbers and web sites with user complaints they will probably work with you better.

    Good Luck.
  • frank58frank58 Member Posts: 54
    Took the car in yesterday to the 5* body shop. They found a TSB on the door gaskets and fixed them on all 4 days.

    We have had a lot of rain around here and the car was very wet. The service manger will not replace the floor mats. The car is 2.5 years old with only 16,000 miles. I feel and will contact Chrysler that this is a known issue and the least they can do is to replace the mats.

    Any comments, is that asking too much?

    Thanks
    Frank
  • supplantersupplanter Member Posts: 1
    Today I stopped at a Chrysler dealer and took a glance at a Concorde up close for the 1st time (even sat in it and started it up). It was a 2002 LXi I believe but not sure. They were asking $17K for it with only 10k on the odometer. It had all the "hoochies" I have been looking for. Though my wife is not comfortable with the fuel economy, I'm very satisfied with the vehicle. We are looking at replacing our vehicles in the fall next year so does anyone have any recommendations to us about purchasing one of these. I think I'm sold on it. I went back 60 posts and found only 1 truly negative posting about the car and that was on a 94 model when it was only like 2-3 years old. Feel free to blab blab blab all the unsolicited advice. I really like the car and the funny thing-I haven't even driven it yet.
  • frank58frank58 Member Posts: 54
    My 2000 Coincorde has had very few issues. I like the car a lot, highway driving is the best.

    I have to say for a big car gas milage is not bad at all.

    FRank
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    If you like the LXI look at the Concorde Limited or an 01 LHS same car but with the nicer 300M interior. Look for one with the Luxury package, You can tell by the half wood steering wheel, the wood grain on the dash is real burlwood a lot nicer that the lxi wood grain and should cost about the same price.
    I have an 01 LHS just a gussied up Concorde but it is the best car I have ever owned and I have been driving Mopars for the last 40 years.
    Last car was a 96 Concorde and it was great also no problems on either one.
  • danny2000lxidanny2000lxi Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone,

    About two months ago I purchased a 2000 Chrysler concord lxi with 75,000 miles on it. I payed 11,500 for it. I really love the way the car drives and it looks great inside and out. It is fully loaded with everything, even the spare tire is with the allow rims. I just had one question and hope someone could give me some feed back. Yesterday, I had parked my park and turned it off and came back about ten minutes later to turn it on when the engine and the car started shaking and didn't start. When I turned it on again it still was shaking and as I started driving it for about five second it stopped shaking. Does anyone know what the problem might be or is it something serious.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    Your symptoms need a bit more explanation.

    For example, 'when I turned it on again it still was shaking..."

    Was the engine totally off between these starts? If so, I would suspect fuel starvation to one or more cylinders.

    Since the engine ran fine a bit later, I doubt if your spark plugs might be fouled. Water in the gas could do this also. A car driven 75K could have quite a bit of condensation in the tank.

    Why not try this? Put in a pint of denatured (wood) alcohol (get it from a drug store). It is what commercial fuel dryers are made of and only costs about $1.29 or so versus $7 or $8 for the commercial stuff. It will absorb the water in the tank and clean up the fuel and injectors. You may have to do this a couple of times to get good results, particularly if you have a lot of condensation in the tank.

    If the problem continues, suggest having the dealer check the fuel injectors, though the alcohol should also clean them out.
  • danny2000lxidanny2000lxi Member Posts: 2
    I knew it was brief, but I was heading out the door. What I was trying to say was that when I started the car for the second time it still kept on shaking and decided to drive it out of the parking space. When I got it out of the parking space it kept on shaking for about 5 sec. and then it stopped shaking as if nothing was wrong with it. Which was somewhat weird to me. I really didn't put much hands on to my previous car I had and with the many parts that I'm not familiar with on my chrysler, that I don't have an idea what might be the problem. Thanks for the suggestion and I'm going to check that out and see if that helps out.
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