Chrysler Concorde



  • sarahb5sarahb5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Chrysler w/ 85,000 miles. I too have this problem. I don't think the lights acutally go all the way off but they flicker up and down multiple times before they reilluminate fully. It seems to be totally random. I would love to find out what is wrong with it.
  • sudeepnsudeepn Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with a chrysler concorde 2000 with 88K miles on it. Although its not that big a deal it can be quite annoying at times. Was just stuck in traffic for an hour yesterday and the overhead lights started going crazy going on and off and sometimes flickering. Funny part was that I had a dj mix rolling at the time so it was like a party on wheels :) . In most forums they mention that this has something to do with terminals that are not clean. I'll try cleaning them out and see what happens
  • zaybozaybo Member Posts: 1
    :sick: :shades: mine did the same thing. come to find out my battery had a bad cell in it.and i spent over 600$ tryen 2 fix it. and all 5 shops didnt know what they was talken bout.
  • chickh1chickh1 Member Posts: 1
    OK I was driving down the road 65mph the car started to sputter (like it was not getting enough gas) went about 2 miles and it stalled at a intersection it started and I drove it less than a mile and it stalled and wouldn't start. I let it sit till the next day and checked to see if it ran out of gas it had plenty of gas and it started right upso I headed for a mechanic when it got up to operarting temp it stalled and wouldn't start called for a tow and by the time the tow arrived it started and the driver drove it onto the truck. the mechanic ran a computer diagnostic and said it needed a crank sensor and a cam sensor. When the mechanic fixed this and did a full tune up I picked up the car and drove less then 15 miles and the car made a clanking noise and stalled at an intersection. I started it and pulled it into a parking space (less than 50 yards) shut it off because there was a rattling comming from the front top of the engine (there was no smoke or steam comming from the exhaust) I called the mechanic and he sent a tow truck. The next morning the mechanic said that I had blown a head gasket and there was coolant in the oil and I needed to replace the engine. I asked what the rattle was and he said that it was probably a a spun bearing but apparently he had not done anything past discovering coolant in the oil.
    Would the computer diag shown any indication that this could have happened.
    Does this sound like the engine really needs to be replaced, I thought head gaskets could be replaced
    what do you think I should do?
  • troydaboytroydaboy Member Posts: 1
    I drove to visit my gf in Maryland and attend our dr appt to get our first sonogram for my 1st child.After finding out I'm having a little girl,my joy was somewhat washed away when my car began overheating.The next day,I reluctantly took it to a local mechanic in her area.15 minutes and $40 later,the guy informs me that the cause of the overheating is because my radiator fans won't turn on at all thus not cooling down the engine when it gets hot.He said he cheked the fuse box and it was fine.He said there is a problem with the relay to the fans,causing them not to turn on.I stopped him before he went any further in fear that he would completely drain my wallet.He wanted to order a "sensor" that he wasn't even sure was the problem or the solution and told me it was "non-refundable" so even if it didnt fix the issue,i'd still be responsible for the $90 dollars he claims it cost.PLEASE,IF YOU HAVE ANY KNOWLEDGE ON THIS ISSUE,I NEED YOUR HELP.I DONT START WORKING UNTIL AUG,I NEED TO GO BACK TO VA SO I CAN MOVE TO BEGIN WORK AND THE BIRTH OF MY 1ST CHILD IS STEADILY APPROACHING.I only bought this concorde as a sacrifice for my child.i wanted a sebring convertible or a firebird but i figured the gigantic trunk space,smooth ride and spaceous interior would be a huge help for a new dad.I want a car thats going to be reliable for my gf and my daughter.It's our only vehicle.

    Went to mechanic today and he tried to push both fans with a moved freely (passenger side).the other was locked in place

    p.s. its a 3.2 6 cylinder.just got an oil change if that helps any.
  • jph_lxijph_lxi Member Posts: 1
    I've located an 6-disc radio/cd player to replace the standard one in my '02 LXi. Has anyone done this? How does the burled-wood (plastic) trim come off that surrounds the radio?

    Help please

  • sarahb5sarahb5 Member Posts: 2
    Pry it off gently with a flat head screwdriver. There are clips that hold it in place. That's how I got mine off.
  • ibtayaibtaya Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem, did you get the answer you needed? :mad:
  • lasalle1lasalle1 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to take off the door covers on the inside to check motors and guides of the power windows. The passenger side window doesn't stay in its rails, and I always have to pull it up on one side to close it. It opens ok though.

    The rear windows don't move at all. Can someone make a suggestion as to what to look for?

  • dom324dom324 Member Posts: 2
    yes is cold heating the part cerry red then use a over size sakit and slowly tap in when the part is heated it become biger giving you room to do it but the part is hot so look out and save your $50.00 for the next part you need on the 2.7
  • dom324dom324 Member Posts: 2
    ya as long is not a 2.7 if it is keep a way money pit
  • mookie625mookie625 Member Posts: 1
    I just brought this car in june with a little over 117k on it. I put a 1k on it since then since i have to drive to a larger city for medical treatments bi-weekly. anyway when I back out of my parking space the car is fine but, when I go to put it in drive it hesitates really bad :cry: . do i need to buy a whole new transmission or can it be something like a filter or sensor ? I really do like this car and everything else works great. thanks in advance.
  • joshual1887joshual1887 Member Posts: 19
    replace the fan, you'll notice after its out the fan motor got hot and melted the plastic holding it in place, and seizing the fan blades. its just a bad fan switch pretty common. my brothers intrepid did the same thing. after the replacement no problem
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    My wife drives a 1998 Concorde LX with 2.7L V-6. I have been told that there is no external fuel filter and that the fuel filter lives in the gas tank. I have looked for a filter at NAPA and other places and they say none exists. Could someone please clarify?
  • joshual1887joshual1887 Member Posts: 19
    2002 concord lxi with 3.5L. showing codes B0103, P2E00, and U179C. i have tried finding anwers through google but these codes are manufacturer and model specific. does anybody have any answers?
  • kabooziekaboozie Member Posts: 15
    By chance...those of you that are having this issue.. Do you have your lights set to automatic? Where you turn the headlights on, do you have it turned all the way to the left where it is marked "A"?

    I used to have this issue with my 01 that has 49k miles on it.. except my map lights and stuff would flash too. Kids called it the disco car.

    I pulled up to my garage one morning when this was happening and realized my HEADLIGHTS WERE FLASHING TOO!.

    So...I took it off of Automatic and the issue stopped. I really like the Automatic feature but not if I am out there flashing headlights at people.
  • garrison16garrison16 Member Posts: 28
    I have this problem with my 1998. I never use the automatic setting. Dealer has
    not been able to duplicate. Once when it was happening I turned the switch on and
    off rapidly a few times and it was better for a while
  • redwing1224redwing1224 Member Posts: 1
    mine does the same thing will be going down the road and it will shut off and at times it will fire back up all on its own what would be my problem??????? question 1110 can anyone help email me with an answer please [email protected] thank you
  • chrissichrissi Member Posts: 3
    ok well i have had my 1999 concorde for almost 10 years and has has very little problems but just about a month ago i turned off the car and when i went to restart it it just clicked i had full power to the car so i thought ok well my battery is not dead but my starter must be bad so i got the car towed home and took the starter off and go it replaced and then 2 weeks ago it did it again so i took the starter back off and got it tested and it is still good and i had the cylinoid check and it was fine to so now i and really puzzled what could be wrong with it all the fuse are good and i checked the battery cables and they are tight and clean so i was thinking a wiring problem cause also the lights on the dash dim out and then come back fine but really don't know where to start and everyone tells me wiring is a costly problem . so if anyone has any ideas please let me know thanks so much
  • chrissichrissi Member Posts: 3
    so what happened ? did it fix the problem ? cause my car does the same thing ?
  • chrissichrissi Member Posts: 3
    so waht was the out come cause my car is doing the same thing !
  • jsewelljsewell Member Posts: 1
    the timing blet is in need of replacement my worry is finding a mechanic an if it will be a costly repair it is a 2000 chrysler concorde lxi
  • hopeicanhelphopeicanhelp Member Posts: 4
    I just picked up a 99 concorde - i had passed the state inspection but the check engine light was on - i went to the local auto parts store and used the free diagnosis tool to see the codes - one of the codes was p0700 which told me it was a transmission PROBLEM - i then found 3 transmission places that gave free diagnosis i was commonly told it was the transmission input and output sensors - prices ranged from $180 to $800 for repair - be aware it was in whats called limp mode ( would not shift into higher gears) - went back to auto parts store and picked up sensors for $17 each - they are both located on the same side of transmission (drivers side) take your time on removing connectors - i used a small screw driver to release lock and a 1 inch deep socket to remove and install sensors - pay attention to the part which enters the transmission ( thats the only difference between the two sensors ) - do not over-tighten and check wires and connectors - total time that it took me was about 20 min. - happy to say 200 miles later the car is still running great. I hope this info would be helpful. PEACE
  • hopeicanhelphopeicanhelp Member Posts: 4
    I just picked up a 99 concorde - i had passed the state inspection but the check engine light was on - i went to the local auto parts store and used the free diagnois tool to see the codes - one of the codes was p0700 which told me it was a transmisson PROBLEM - i then found 3 transmission places that gave free diagnois i was commonly told it was the transmission input and output sensors - prices ranged from $180 to $800 for repair - be aware it was in whats called limp mode ( would not shift into higher gears) - went back to auto parts store and picked up sensors for $17 each - they are both located on the same side of transmisson (drivers side) take your time on removing connectors - i used a small screw driver to release lock and a 1 inch deep socket to remove and install sensors - pay attention to the part which enters the transmisson ( thats the only difference between the two sensors ) - do not overtighen and check wires and connectors - total time that it took me was about 20 min. - happy to say 200 miles later the car is still running great. I hope this info would be helpful. PEACE
  • hopeicanhelphopeicanhelp Member Posts: 4
  • saxsnowmansaxsnowman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 with the exact same problem. I have heard ignition I replaced the tumbler, this did not fix it. Did you ever figure out what was wrong & how to fix it?

    Thanx - Bob
  • toda1toda1 Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 Chrysler Concord with a 3.3L engine would inadvertently shut off without warning. Set and cooled for about 5 - 10 minutes; re started and drove until it warmed up to operating temp and then abruptly shut off. Changed the coil ~ started ran for about 10 minutes and shut off. Changed out the coil again and now it won't start. Checked the fuses to the fuel pump, and relays under the hood. Changed out two relays for good luck. Now it doesn't start at all and have connected the battery charger. Check fire to fuses - good. No current to the coil: when I turn on the switch or try to current. Have current to the fuses under the cover in the car. No obvious fuses blown. I'm sure some one has had this problem before...any thoughts - please....
  • diana_elainediana_elaine Member Posts: 26

    I'm new here .. and am looking for a new 'used' car. Thinking of either a Honda Accord, Civic or Hyundai Elantra. But now my heart is sad that I have to give up the power of my Chrysler.

    It has such power still! Take off is strong ... and I think about 145,000. Only thing is, the AC is broke again, and the body is going really bad quickly (hood and top of car is peeling paint and bubbling up).

    I need AC because of a health issue .. get very sick in the humidity, so it's a must ... but man, sometimes I just want to fix him up and keep him. :)

    Sooo .... I know Hondas are great cars that last ... all thought it's hard to find one in my price range, now I'm thinking of looking at a new Concorde instead. Just not sure if I should stay with such a large car (gas wise).

    My question was though: should I keep the Concorde for parts, or sell it? It runs great right now, it's just the hood and top. If I get a newer one, parts might not fit ... so maybe I should sell it for BO? What do you think?

    Oh hey .. great meeting you all!

  • alv1969alv1969 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    What is the best and cheap way to remove very heavy sludge and trouble shoot a knock that sounds like its at the top of the engine. After about 2mins of running the oil light comes on, i can wait until the next day and restart the car and the oil light is off but after 1 or 2 mins it comes back on. Need help please :sick:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I am assuming that you have the 2.7L V-6 and if it is sludged up, you have a serious problem. Also since you have the knocking sound, that too is not a good sign. If you are getting an oil pressure light after two minutes of running and the crankcase is full, then the screen on the oil pump pickup is probably clogged with goo. If you put any kind of engine cleaner in the crankcase, there is a pretty good chance that you will destroy the engine and possibly spin a bearing when you loosen up all of the goo that has accumulated.

    The best way to prevent sludge is with good care and using synthetic oil. My wife has a 1998 Concorde with the 2.7L V-6 and it has been on a diet of synthetic oil since it was 3000 miles old (now has 61K miles). The top end of the engine is spotless and the valve train is quiet, there is no knocking or anything like that.
  • starchild85starchild85 Member Posts: 2
    hey- i also own a 94! same thing happened when i 1st bought mine. it was about $10 crank shaft sensor. on passager side on the transmission. it drove me absolutely nuts till we figured it out!!!!
  • starchild85starchild85 Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    i own a used '94 concorde. been thru the crank shaft sensor when it was shutting off while in mid-drive. fixed that. my main concern is with the check engine light that comes on everytime i drive it now. especially if i try 2 accelerate fast 2 get on the hwy or something. it also kinda jerks & i hear a funny sound come from under the hood if i let off the gas 2 fast?? i also hear a wierd thud when i go ovr decent sized bumps?? wtf is that all about? plz help! i drive daily & i have a toddler. i need a reliable car. cheap fix would be gr8! cuz i dont have alotta $$$ 2 throw around. hense the reason y im driving a car thats ovr a decade & a half old! i actually kinda like this car, its comfy, gr8 on gas, but if its gonna nickel & dime me then i dont want it! :(
  • thummmperthummmper Member Posts: 5
    the jerking could be dirty throttle bodies. the egr valve gets cruddy as well and she wont idle and has less power. you can take that apart and clean it. the throttle bodies need a wiping out after spraying them with a product like berryman B12 chemtool. spray NO silicone around the intake linkage as it could get in the intake and contaminate your oxygen sensors [expensive]. you need to see if the system is showing any trouble codes. autozone has a free scan tool service. this will display them, if any. they will tell us where to start looking for solutions.

    the thud is probably your left stabilizer bar bushing [not expensive] or something is loose on your front end. todd in carlsbad, ca.
  • thummmperthummmper Member Posts: 5
    anybody know the electronic system for this car, or LH's in general??
    I put a 94 3.5v6 and 42le in my 89 vw vanagon and I need to get it running. some one with engineer level knowledge and skill--to mask the data signals for a normal stock running condition. vehicle was intact and passed california smog 3 months ago,[july2010]. seems nobody wants to touch this one......I have all the wiring from the car, all components except door sensors. it has all the features including atc and vtss. dealer mechs shy away too. I need to learn the operating nature of this system so I can enable it. see the project here thanks--todd/carlsbad,ca.
  • thummmperthummmper Member Posts: 5
    if you have experiences with your LH type car, 94-95, malfunctions and cures electrically, regarding the antitheft, engine, trans, etc, please share. I want to learn the nature of this model. any narrative from factory/good mechanics about what went wrong is needed. see this project in action-
  • thummmperthummmper Member Posts: 5
    in the late eighties there was the CVIC, [chrysler vehicle information communication] system that connected 3 control modules. japanese systems used control modules for the fuel injection systems only, as late as 1994. [toyota trucks] the ccd bus was a revolutionary response to the new emissions requirements of the nineties. more communication was more data and more control of functions.
  • smikkeesmikkee Member Posts: 1
    We only got 34000 miles then had to replace the engine. Guess what...Niether warranty covered with PROOF OF MAINTENANCE!!! No more Chryslers for us,
  • terandterand Member Posts: 1
    your message was posted in 2000?---i was just wondering how you feel about the chrysler s today???? thanks te
  • enginefighterenginefighter Member Posts: 1
    It depends on which engine. I had the timing belts replaced on my 1994 Concorde and it cost me about $740. When it comes right down to it, on a 3.5 liter engine, provided you have the right tools, it's not a hard job to do yourself. It would cost you less to buy the tools to do it. I recommend a small air compressor with impact wrenches to remove the fanbelt wheels.
  • elisab26elisab26 Member Posts: 1
    OMG, I am having the same issue, only mines will start just fine but after driving for 10-15 mins, it acts as if it wants to shut off, stalls, slows down and then completely shuts off. Took it to the shop and was told it was the trans but after having the trans fixed and drove it away from the shop, it cut off again could this be the same issue?
  • halie123halie123 Member Posts: 1
    Two days i ago i had the EXACT same problem. i also have a 2000 chrysler concorde. My speedometer had stopped working. As i continued to try and drive home, it died twice and my gas gauge also started randomly going up and down repeatedly. i have 104,000 miles on this car. if you could tell me what was wrong with yours that would be awesome. i'm so scared that this will be an expensive fix.
  • peacewishdreampeacewishdream Member Posts: 1
    What do you guys think could be wrong with my car, stupid mechanic has had it for 5 days assures me he'll look at it tomm. I just had it in, inspection, oil change, new plugs, ect, I keep it very highly maintained, even the harmonic balancer expensive sucker got replaced, almost all on the car is replaced, it's a 2002 lxi, 187,000 miles. Ok it was running rough every morning but evened out, mechanic just said "old car" but Sat I stopped at a signal light, it was like I was rear ended! the car jerked, it was putting out white smoke from the tail pipe so assumed maybe gasket problem but when I went to go from the signal the car strained and finally jerked forward so I got into my driveway. It's at mechanics now. I don't wanna lost my car I can't afford another one. I'm so upset my birthday was yesterday and I got a rental car late in day had to get a ride, my chrysler dealer had a 01 concorde 8,000 for sale with 1 owner, 40,000 miles, I set up today test drive i wanted it, got there to find they sold it! I was so mad. So I have to fix my car I guess can't afford anything more than 8 grand. Think my car is fixable and how much to fix?
  • concorde03lmtdconcorde03lmtd Member Posts: 1
    so i just got a 2003 chrysler concord limited. and i want to upgrade it performance wise. i was wondering if anyone has messed with chips turbos supercharger kits anything like that for this car. its a 3.5l v6.
  • modene81modene81 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 concorde lx 2.7. i recently had the battery replaced, the alternator was checked and checked out good. the problem is my headlamps and gage lights seem to pulsate only when i accelerate. during the day this is no bother but as you could imagine at night this is very troublesome. it does not do it when in neutral, the car has to be moving. i have been reading that these cars are notorious for electrical problems. any advise or info would be greatly appreciated.
  • dresordresor Member Posts: 1

    I have a 2002 Chrysler Concord. The rear defrost does not defrost. The light is on when I push the button, but it does not clean the window. Does this work from a fuse? Please tell me what to do to fix this.

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