The one on my car is way too sensitive, any passing breeze will set it off. Dealer says there's no way to adjust it except pressing the button on the B-post, which cancels as soon as you turn the alarm off.
My 2003 A's manual said it was still there. I haven't tried it. A friend set his off by waiting in the car and not knowing the car had one. He wasn't very pleased with it.
Did you push 'menu' when the CD was playing and scroll through the options with the tuner knob? I know it varies depending on the setting but forget what the choices were.
My wife's old mini-van (traded in on the A4) only randomed across one CD at a time. I agree its because the change time is too long between CD's.
Plus you don't want to overwork the CD change mechanism. Imagine it randomly cycles to another CD after playing each song.....if each CD has 15 songs (let's say), it has a chance that it will cycle 89 times to play all songs in 6 CD's.
Actually my motion sensor in my 01 A4 was not sensitive but became way too sensitive after a battery draining episode. The dealership has a choice of using the diagonostic tool to change the sensitivity to 50%, 75% or 100%. Now it's back at 50%, it goes off at the right moment. Andys120, you might want to check that with your dealership.
I just purchased an 01 A4 Quattro with only 13000 miles on it a few days ago. (A little graduation present) Any who. A few questions
1. The dealer recommended changing the oil at intervals at 15000 miles. That seems extremely high, for on my previous car I never went over 4k. I know that oil changes are covered through the dealer, but should I change it more often than 15000 miles? And should I use synthetic?
2. The dealer also recommended using 91 octane, but said 89 would work just fine. I know all the facts an lies about octane, and if he says 89 will work than i assume I should be able to run 89 no prob. Correct?
By the way, you did not mention if this new/used Audi was turbo or non turbo -- the answers are not necessarily different, but they COULD be.
The following applies to both the 1.8T and the 2.8 powerplants.
=====
Thus far the maximum Audi oil change interval is: oil + filter @ 10,000 miles -- syn not required.
If this is a keeper car -- I would suggest that you look in the manual and do what it says. Moreover, I would use syn oil (the dealer will upcharge you ONLY the diff in price, which should be about $4 -$6 per liter) and always change the filter even if your manual says every other time.
15K miles? Sounds like the new Porsche's -- my 2003 Audi 2.7T turbo motor has 10K intervals.
I changed at 3K miles (oil and filter) and then at 10K miles using syn oil and filter. Planning my next change to be @ 20K miles with syn oil and filter. I am leasing and may or may not consider this -- an all optioned 6spd manual allroad -- to be a "keeper" car.
If you don't plan to keep the car, follow the manual to the letter (with my personal suggestion to always always always change the filter whenever you change the oil regardless of factory specifications).
=====
Gasoline
This car requires 91 - 94 octane. It is a false economy to use 89, although the engine managment will most likely prevent any serious damage to it should you use low octane. Your milage will suffer and your power will be reduced. Conversely, the engine will advance the spark -- so to speak -- with 93 octane and improve the power output (although the difference between 91 and 93 would have to be something that you "studied" so that you could really notice it). A couple of 91 octane tankfulls, follwed by a couple of 93 octane tankfulls then returning to 91 octane will produce a sense of "what happened to the power?" which is reminds me of some of the older cars that you could feel the difference when the air conditioner compressor kicked in.
Also use gasoline -- not a blend of gas and "corn squeezin's" -- it says right on the side of the pump if the gas you are pumping contains something other than "pure" gasoline. Again, the issue is power loss and for these Audi engines, it too is a false economy.
Both turbocharged and naturally aspirated engines lose power in high altitudes due to the less-dense air. However, because of the forced induction, the turbocharged car will lose a smaller percentage of its power.
Up in Denver, the performance difference between the 1.8T and the 3.0 is going to be a lot smaller than at sea level, where the 3.0 should be noticeably more powerful than the 1.8T.
I think I heard on Audiworld.com that the 03 A4 maintenance intervals will be 15,000 miles. Don't know if that's right or not (maybe the 03 owners here can verify.) Anyhow for a 01 (I have a 01.5), it's every 10k. I know motor oil technology has advanced and they can stay in the engine for longer than 3k miles, but 10k still sounds too much. I change my oil every 5k. And by the way, Audi covers the oil changes only at the recommended intervals. Anything more frequent, you have to pay for it.
I thought the engine management computer compensated for the higher altitude in the turbo due to the fact that the turbo can be "told" to force more air whenever certain sensors detect what in effect is an air starved loss of power.
The naturally aspirated engine's ability to be so "dynamically tuned" is less.
I think this means I am in violent agreement with Brian (tiredofmanual).
I agree with Billy (Lauk0dg) that 10k or more between changes is a long time. I change mine every 5k and since I am a cheapskate I bring my own synthetic for the tech to put in. I usually use 5W-30 Mobil one but if you can find it 0W-30 is even better. The local Target and Wal-Mart here in Kenosha, WI used to carry it, now they don't. I don't understand that, we are in the snow belt and are one of the coldest places during winter around here!? As far as gas goes I always put in premium but one note to Mark is that here in WI-IL there are no gas stations that do not use straight gas anymore. My friend drives for a petro transport and all they do is blend gas with ethanol. Also, Premium and Regular are combined to make Mid-Grade. Some stations do it themselves, some have a seperate in ground tank and then he'll bring a blend to the station himself. I forget what the mixture is but can ask if anyone is curious... Safe driving. Brian
Some info on Mobil 1 oil, looks like their best grade is now 0W-40 which I have not even seen on a shelf in my area. Brian
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 10W-30 – Higher-Mileage Vehicle Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 5W-30 – Newer Vehicle Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 15W-50 – Performance Driving Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-30 – Enhanced Fuel Economy Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40 – European Car Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is truly a global formulation, exceeding the latest standards from the government, the oil industry and vehicle manufacturers. For instance, the appropriate grades of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ exceed ILSAC GF-3, API Service SL/CF, European ACEA standards and Japanese valvetrain requirements. In addition, some viscosity grades exceed specific OEM standards. One example is Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40, which exceeds Mercedes Benz's 229.3 specification. As a CF rated oil, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can also be used in diesel engines calling for a CD oil.
Yup I bring my own Mobil1 0W-30 synthetic for oil changes too. I also noticed that here in Chicago it's getting difficult to get 0W-30 at Target/Wal-Mart. I just go to Pep Boys and they have them. For 0W-40, I think you need to go to your local Mobil1 distributor and buy direct from them if so desired.
And yup, all the grades of gasoline in the Chicago and Milwaukee areas have 10% max ethanol in it. Reformulated gasoline that burns cleaner for environmental reasons. I think it's the same thing for California. And of course that's why we and Cali always fight for the honor for the "most expensive gas award". Lucky us.
You get what your market allows -- for the time being Cincinnati still has 100% -- but the smog alert days keep increasing, what do you want to bet that we'll soon NOT have 100% gasoline either.
I still advocate to get it if you can and always use Premium
It's possible that the engine computer compensates for the altitude and "turns up the boost," but even a regular turbocharger will show a smaller loss at altitude. I believe that the lower air density makes the turbocharger more efficient, resulting in more air being shoved into the cylinders. While this additional air doesn't make up for the lost combustion energy, it does a better job of coping than a naturally aspirated engine which of course has no aides to help it breathe.
Oh, and by the way, when talking about 15,000 mile oil changes and sounding like Porsche, of course the reason is that Porsche uses a modified dry sump and the engine holds around twice as much oil as our engines. In days gone by, a Porsche engine might hold 15 quarts of oil, while modern ones hold around 10. When you've got that much oil circulating through the engine, you can go a long time between oil changes.
My 98 A4 Avant is just about to cross the river into six figure mileages. I'll give you a condition report in a week or so when TH's highest mileage A4 (AFAIK) flips the 99s over.
I know that these two vehicles are not in the same class, but if you look at the interior/exterior dimensions and weight, they are virtually the same!
I am in the market for a "new" car and am considering either a low mileage (28k miles) 2002 BMW 530i w/ Sport, Premium, and Steptronic, OR a 2004 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro Tip w/ Sport & Premium Pkg. Given this choice, what would you buy?
I live in FL so Quattro is not a must-have. I think the Audi has a nicer interior and more features, but the BMW has better fuel economy and acceleration. The BMW is priced at $35,900...a steal at that price!
Which ever car I get will be a keeper for a while, so reliability is an issue too!
I just got a 2002 A4 with 25k miles and noticed that at higher speeds (75-80) that I am experiencing quite a bit of vibration inside the car, (defintely a lot more vibration experienced in other cars). I did notice that one tire seemed to have more tread than the others, perhaps replacing a badly blown tire. Other than that the car seems perfect, any ideas on what is causing the vibration?
I can tell you after getting a new 2003 5 series and having a 2003 A4 3.0, they are no where near the same dimensions. Our old 3 series (99) was more the same. Their driving characteristics are totally different. The BMW has attributes that the A4 doesn't have and vice-versa. You need to drive both and decide for yourself. Don't trust stats on a piece of paper!
So you have BOTH of the cars! How lucky! As far as the dimensions are concerned, they are nearly identical on paper. I've sat in both, but not long enough to be able to compare them mentally.
The Audi seems to be all about style, while the BMW is certainly graceful in its own rights. I really like both cars and it's such a hard choice!
As far as Quattro is concerned...I know it's not *needed* in FL, but it certainly sounds helpful as far as safety is conerned. Is does rain here a lot! And who knows, I may need when I travel out of town some day. Also, I've driven the CVT and didn't like the driving dynamics as much as the Quattro.
You mean you like the Tiptronic rather than the CVT. Remember A4s with Quattro have Tiptronic, Frontracks have CVT. I also live in S. FL and have a frontrack CVT....absolutely love the tranny, it is very smooth.
. . .but, due to the RWD vs Quattro attribute alone, the Audi would have to be first choice.
And, as I am brainwashed, my opinion should be taken with a grain of salt.
Both BMW and Audi make great cars. Drive them both, drive them long, drive them over the same test drive circuit. Push them both -- perhaps on a rainy day take another test drive.
The merits of Quattro may not be visible or able to be felt on a test drive loop. Over time, the Quattro drive train's benefits make themselves known.
Based on my friend's experiences, the BMW will probably feel the stronger accelerator.
Both of these cars long to be configured as manual transmission cars -- if possible try driving the 6spd manual versions.
And, no matter what, either one of these cars is a good choice.
Remember that decontenting discussion? Here's what I came across today:
Audi of America 2004 Model Year Change Points 2004 Audi A4 1.8 T / 3.0 Sedan * Satellite radio preparation standard on all A4 models * 6-speed manual transmission on A4 1.8 T quattro® Sedan / Avant * 16" 5-spoke cast alloy wheels now standard on all 1.8 T models * 17” wheels now standard on 3.0 models in Canada only (Sedan, Avant and Cabrio) * Driver information display now optional on A4 1.8 T and 3.0 FrontTrak® * Concert radio replaces Symphony radio on all FrontTrak models * Power passenger seat removed from A4 3.0 FrontTrak * Power Lumbar support now optional on A4 3.0 FrontTrak * Tire pressure monitoring system standard * Full body paint standard * 2 stage advanced front airbags, including occupant detection * new generation modular steering wheel family * New valet key
So, Audi is getting rid of more stuff in the upcoming model year. Good bye power passenger seats for the FrontTrak model!
I have recently purchased an 01 A4 1.8T Quattro. The dealer equipped the car with 4 new tires. Then i looked tat the spare.... It was the original tire that the car comes with. I went to the dealer because i was always under the impression that with a full size tire in the trunk i thought that you rotate with the spare... They told me that that is what i get and that the tires are rotated front to back not needing the same in the trunk. It seems to me that they are really cheap. Any suggestions?
Question #2... What will void a warranty. I know chips will, but will a k&n filter void it? Or exhaust or cold air intake? Anyone able to fill me in that would be greatly appreciated.
Matt: The dealer has informed me that the oil coating on the K/N air filters could clog the Audi Mass Air Sensor and at the least cause a rough idle situation.
Synthetic oil is highly recommended and I have used it with no ill effects in my '00 A6 2.7T for about a year now.
marleybarr: The dealer has informed me that the oil coating on the K/N air filters could clog the Audi Mass Air Sensor and at the least cause a rough idle situation.
Anyone else heard of this, or anyone running a K&N filter with problems?
Hey everyone. Has anyone purchased an extended warranty for their A4 at the time of purchase or after? I have a 2001 A4 2.8 Quattro that I plan on keeping for a long time and would like to know if it is worth the cost of an extended warranty to cover it to 100k. I have communicated with the finance director at the dealership where I purchased the car and they said that a 6yr/100k extended warranty with $0 deductible would run around $2500. What do you all think is a fair price for this coverage, and is it worth getting, especially considering the dollar amount repairs would cost after the manufacturer's warranty is up. Thanks.
Anytime anything is purchased (car, TV Stereo, computer, washer/dryer, power tool, etc.) instead of buying the extended warranty, put that same amount in a savings account. If/when things need repairs, draw from the account. Over the years, the odds are that the account will grow substantially.
The latest issue of Car & Driver includes a report on the long-term quality of a 2002 Audi A4 3.0 FT CVT. The authors stated that they wouldn't recommend this car because of the car lurching upon initial acceleration when the engine was cold. They said that this problem gets worse when the weather is cold. I own a 2003 3.0 CVT and haven't had this problem but then again, I live in San Diego where it never gets too cold. On the plus side, they reported that after 40,000 miles the car has improved its 0-60 time from 7.2 to 6.5. Now that's what I'm talking about!!!
I Carfaxed it and it checks out. Has the leatherette interior. Anything to look out for? I'm going to look at it tomorrow. I also think probably more like $14000-14200. Thanks for any info.
Check and see if the timing belt/water pumps had been changed. Audi recommended changing them at 90k miles but people had them failed as early as 60k. Just something to budget for if it's not done yet. It can be pricey due to all the labor involved.
4 yrs and 82k seem a lot of miles. I personally don't think it worths $15k. Is it Audi certified? Most likely not due to the mileage.
Just as a point of reference, we have a '98.5 A4 2.8Q with all options including sport pkg, with 60,200 miles, and will be trading it in. The dealer is giving us $11,000 for it, and I expect it will be sold for something like $13,000 - $14,000 after some minor work (60,000 service has not been done, and the exterior has one minor scratch). I think that the 82K miles on the car you are looking at makes it a little less desirable than ours, even though yours is a '99, as I don't know of any significant changes that were made from '98.5 to '99.
Thanks much for the response. The belt/pumps have not been changed. Looking into pricing that service out. Looks like ~1k range for everything. Not certified. Am buying from private individual.
When I looked at the car, it is in great shape in and out, other than quite a few touch up chips on the front. No door dings, paint everywhere else is great. Tires only have about 3k on them. Has the Bose option. No sport package. Drove quite well.
KBB has it for around $13.6k and Edmunds $14.7 for private party.
On another note, there are several like it listed in Ebaymotors, better options, lower mileage with service around $12.5. All seem to be either previously commercial registered or lease. Anyone have any experience buying one from Ebay?
I'm going to be purchasing an A4, have decided to wait for the 04 models. I'm told the first batch should be in mid to end of August. But, there aren't many cars in that first batch. SEcond shipments should follow closely in mid Sept.
Here is the info I have:
The base price for an A4 1.8T Quattro Automatic (what I want, so thats all I have) is:
Base Price: $28,300 Destination: 690
options- Cold Weather Pkg: 625, same Premium Pkg : 2,000, same
Lighting Pkg: 750 will include Xenon lights, auto dimming mirrior, automatic headlights, and compass.
Infotainment Pkg: 1,000 The Infotainment System is the Bose Premium Sound System with either the Sirius or XM Satellite Radio.
17" All-Season Tires 750
MetallicPearl Effect Paint 450
Other options are: Sport Package, Ultra Sport Package, Audi Telematics and sometimes Rear Side Air Bags.
Cloth Upholstery is a n/c option. Leather Seating Surfaces are part of the Premium Package.
The following exterior colors will be available for the 2004 models:
Brilliant Black Light Silver Metallic Arctic White Canvas Beige Cambridge Green Pearl Effect Dolphin Gray Pearl Effect Ocean Blue Pearl Effect Moro Blue Pearl Effect Brilliant Red Crystal Blue Metallic Crimson Red Pearl Effect
I've been told by some that the 6 disc changer will no longer be standard, you'd have to order the premium sound package for that, but I've heard conflicting reports...
Any additional info anyone has, or a website, anything, please post as well.
Teddy, where have you seen specs? What does your dealer tell you re: availability? I'm hearing mid aug from multiple dealers in multiple states.
A few questions, it says Driver information display now optional on A4 1.8 T and 3.0 FrontTrak®. Is this the digital screen that shows Temp, and other types of information? If so, what pkg will that be available in, is it standard now?
What is the difference in body paint?
I also heard the 6 disch in dash CD changer is no longer standard on the A4 1.8T Qa, is this true?
There is no change in cd changer, and the changes in driver info display, although she did not know what pkg it would come in, is only on the frontrak not Quattro.
Also the tire pressure monitor system and full body paint will not be available till at least Feb.
Does anyone know how the process works with respect to dealers and trading cars. I'm told by one dealer that he could get the car I want as its on the boat now, all he has to do is switch at port. AoA just told me, he can't reserve it while its on the boat, so i have no guarantee.
To Chaseboy: We just bought a 2003 A4, and the dealer was asking for $2900 for the 6yr/100,000 mil warranty,$0 deductible, we decided to take the $100 deductible, knocking off a few hundred dollars more. You maybe able to get better deal with AAA, if you have AAA... As far as for KN filter, I have used it in my Honda, no problem at all. Make sure you don't over oil it when you clean it... We are very happy with our new A4, so far...
This may a good time to post this. I seem to be the canary in the mine as I apparently have the highest mileage A4 of any regular poster on this topic.
In November of 2001 I purchased a certified pre-owned 98 Audi A4 2.8 Avant Quattro with 56,500 miles, my second A4. This past July 11th I turned over the 9s and took the car over the century mark.
My CPO came with an extension of the original factory warranty thru 75k miles. I thought it might be useful to post the total of repairs to my car for which I would not have been out of pocket had a bought warranty coverage thru 100k.
That total is just under $2000.... $1912.00 as nearly as I can figure (my shop bills me for total labor and does not break out specific items so I had to estimate how much was for normal maintainence vs. repairs that would have been covered by warranty.
-Major possible warranty items that would have been covered were a failed electric fan motor, replacement of warped rotors and wheel bearings all around (I have one wb that hasn't been replaced.
-Repair expenses were low until going over the 75k mark with one exception, the 70k service which included replacing the cam drive belt, v.-belt, thermostat front engine seals and pulleys, none of would be covered under warranties.
-Repairing the fan motor was the only occasion for taking the car in other than services performed at the regular 5000 miles I use for l/o/f.
-the car has held up well cosmetically, inside and out. Paint has good gloss, few scratches, chips, some light swirl marks.
-Factory warranty repair was done on replacing front suspension bushing prior to my ownership.
-Factory recall repair was done @ n/c to replace vacuum hose related to emission control system.
-Vorsprung durch teknik! I really believe the A4 is a fantastic car, as well made and reliable as any. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
I am planning on leasing or premier purchase a 2003 A4 1.8T Quattro (auto, premium, 16" alloys, dolphin gray metallic paint). I figure $31560 as the MSRP on this package. I need to make a deal by 9/15/03 due to my old lease ending (Nissan).
I have several questions as to proceeding.
1) I live in New Orleans. What is the best dealer to work with as far as deals and selection? I would be willing to drive a little bit to Jackson, Mobile or Houston.
2) What do you think I should be willing to pay for the negotiated price? How close will I get to invoice? Anyone with recent experience out there as to their negotiated price?
3) With the new 2004 due in late August, will I be able to negotiate a better deal on a 2003? How much better? Will I have to sacrafice options with scarce supply of 2003s?
4) Should I forget the 2003 and just hold on for the 2004? Will I even be able to get my hands on one before my old lease runs out? I'm not sure if I'd be willing to pay more for the new ones, but it may be cheaper to get a 6-speed which would rock!
Comments
The list is growing...
No more aluminum trim in 1.8T
No tiptronic controls on steering wheel
No rear heated seats
No...
I can do fine w/o it.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
My wife's old mini-van (traded in on the A4) only randomed across one CD at a time. I agree its because the change time is too long between CD's.
Actually my motion sensor in my 01 A4 was not sensitive but became way too sensitive after a battery draining episode. The dealership has a choice of using the diagonostic tool to change the sensitivity to 50%, 75% or 100%. Now it's back at 50%, it goes off at the right moment. Andys120, you might want to check that with your dealership.
Billy
1. The dealer recommended changing the oil at intervals at 15000 miles. That seems extremely high, for on my previous car I never went over 4k. I know that oil changes are covered through the dealer, but should I change it more often than 15000 miles? And should I use synthetic?
2. The dealer also recommended using 91 octane, but said 89 would work just fine. I know all the facts an lies about octane, and if he says 89 will work than i assume I should be able to run 89 no prob. Correct?
Thank you all for your input.
-Matt
The following applies to both the 1.8T and the 2.8 powerplants.
=====
Thus far the maximum Audi oil change interval is: oil + filter @ 10,000 miles -- syn not required.
If this is a keeper car -- I would suggest that you look in the manual and do what it says. Moreover, I would use syn oil (the dealer will upcharge you ONLY the diff in price, which should be about $4 -$6 per liter) and always change the filter even if your manual says every other time.
15K miles? Sounds like the new Porsche's -- my 2003 Audi 2.7T turbo motor has 10K intervals.
I changed at 3K miles (oil and filter) and then at 10K miles using syn oil and filter. Planning my next change to be @ 20K miles with syn oil and filter. I am leasing and may or may not consider this -- an all optioned 6spd manual allroad -- to be a "keeper" car.
If you don't plan to keep the car, follow the manual to the letter (with my personal suggestion to always always always change the filter whenever you change the oil regardless of factory specifications).
=====
Gasoline
This car requires 91 - 94 octane. It is a false economy to use 89, although the engine managment will most likely prevent any serious damage to it should you use low octane. Your milage will suffer and your power will be reduced. Conversely, the engine will advance the spark -- so to speak -- with 93 octane and improve the power output (although the difference between 91 and 93 would have to be something that you "studied" so that you could really notice it). A couple of 91 octane tankfulls, follwed by a couple of 93 octane tankfulls then returning to 91 octane will produce a sense of "what happened to the power?" which is reminds me of some of the older cars that you could feel the difference when the air conditioner compressor kicked in.
Also use gasoline -- not a blend of gas and "corn squeezin's" -- it says right on the side of the pump if the gas you are pumping contains something other than "pure" gasoline. Again, the issue is power loss and for these Audi engines, it too is a false economy.
Buy good gas and you will be a happy Audi driver.
Good luck, good car -- congrats.
Up in Denver, the performance difference between the 1.8T and the 3.0 is going to be a lot smaller than at sea level, where the 3.0 should be noticeably more powerful than the 1.8T.
Billy
The naturally aspirated engine's ability to be so "dynamically tuned" is less.
I think this means I am in violent agreement with Brian (tiredofmanual).
As far as gas goes I always put in premium but one note to Mark is that here in WI-IL there are no gas stations that do not use straight gas anymore. My friend drives for a petro transport and all they do is blend gas with ethanol. Also, Premium and Regular are combined to make Mid-Grade. Some stations do it themselves, some have a seperate in ground tank and then he'll bring a blend to the station himself. I forget what the mixture is but can ask if anyone is curious...
Safe driving. Brian
Brian
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 10W-30 –
Higher-Mileage Vehicle Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 5W-30 –
Newer Vehicle Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 15W-50 –
Performance Driving Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-30 –
Enhanced Fuel Economy Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40 –
European Car Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is truly a global formulation, exceeding the latest standards from the government, the oil industry and vehicle manufacturers. For instance, the appropriate grades of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ exceed ILSAC GF-3, API Service SL/CF, European ACEA standards and Japanese valvetrain requirements. In addition, some viscosity grades exceed specific OEM standards. One example is Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40, which exceeds Mercedes Benz's 229.3 specification. As a CF rated oil, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can also be used in diesel engines calling for a CD oil.
And yup, all the grades of gasoline in the Chicago and Milwaukee areas have 10% max ethanol in it. Reformulated gasoline that burns cleaner for environmental reasons. I think it's the same thing for California. And of course that's why we and Cali always fight for the honor for the "most expensive gas award". Lucky us.
Billy
I still advocate to get it if you can and always use Premium
Oh, and by the way, when talking about 15,000 mile oil changes and sounding like Porsche, of course the reason is that Porsche uses a modified dry sump and the engine holds around twice as much oil as our engines. In days gone by, a Porsche engine might hold 15 quarts of oil, while modern ones hold around 10. When you've got that much oil circulating through the engine, you can go a long time between oil changes.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I am in the market for a "new" car and am considering either a low mileage (28k miles) 2002 BMW 530i w/ Sport, Premium, and Steptronic, OR a 2004 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro Tip w/ Sport & Premium Pkg. Given this choice, what would you buy?
I live in FL so Quattro is not a must-have. I think the Audi has a nicer interior and more features, but the BMW has better fuel economy and acceleration. The BMW is priced at $35,900...a steal at that price!
Which ever car I get will be a keeper for a while, so reliability is an issue too!
I am surprised to hear the dimensions are close. The 530 looks larger to me.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Good luck
The Audi seems to be all about style, while the BMW is certainly graceful in its own rights. I really like both cars and it's such a hard choice!
As far as Quattro is concerned...I know it's not *needed* in FL, but it certainly sounds helpful as far as safety is conerned. Is does rain here a lot! And who knows, I may need when I travel out of town some day. Also, I've driven the CVT and didn't like the driving dynamics as much as the Quattro.
Thanks for the input!
And, as I am brainwashed, my opinion should be taken with a grain of salt.
Both BMW and Audi make great cars. Drive them both, drive them long, drive them over the same test drive circuit. Push them both -- perhaps on a rainy day take another test drive.
The merits of Quattro may not be visible or able to be felt on a test drive loop. Over time, the Quattro drive train's benefits make themselves known.
Based on my friend's experiences, the BMW will probably feel the stronger accelerator.
Both of these cars long to be configured as manual transmission cars -- if possible try driving the 6spd manual versions.
And, no matter what, either one of these cars is a good choice.
Audi of America 2004 Model Year Change Points
2004 Audi A4 1.8 T / 3.0 Sedan
* Satellite radio preparation standard on all A4 models
* 6-speed manual transmission on A4 1.8 T quattro® Sedan / Avant
* 16" 5-spoke cast alloy wheels now standard on all 1.8 T models
* 17” wheels now standard on 3.0 models in Canada only (Sedan, Avant and Cabrio)
* Driver information display now optional on A4 1.8 T and 3.0 FrontTrak®
* Concert radio replaces Symphony radio on all FrontTrak models
* Power passenger seat removed from A4 3.0 FrontTrak
* Power Lumbar support now optional on A4 3.0 FrontTrak
* Tire pressure monitoring system standard
* Full body paint standard
* 2 stage advanced front airbags, including occupant detection
* new generation modular steering wheel family
* New valet key
So, Audi is getting rid of more stuff in the upcoming model year. Good bye power passenger seats for the FrontTrak model!
Question #2... What will void a warranty. I know chips will, but will a k&n filter void it? Or exhaust or cold air intake? Anyone able to fill me in that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt
The dealer has informed me that the oil coating on the K/N air filters could clog the Audi Mass Air Sensor and at the least cause a rough idle situation.
Synthetic oil is highly recommended and I have used it with no ill effects in my '00 A6 2.7T for about a year now.
Anyone else heard of this, or anyone running a K&N filter with problems?
Thanks,
Matt
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
100K).
Quick answer: It depends on your tolerance for risk. They're very well-made and reliable but repairs are expensive. It's a crap shoot.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Anytime anything is purchased (car, TV Stereo, computer, washer/dryer, power tool, etc.) instead of buying the extended warranty, put that same amount in a savings account. If/when things need repairs, draw from the account. Over the years, the odds are that the account will grow substantially.
1999 AUDI A4 Quattro, 82k mi, black, 5 spd, V6, pw, pdl, sunroof, 6 disc CD changer, ABS, immac in/out, $15,000
I Carfaxed it and it checks out. Has the leatherette interior. Anything to look out for? I'm going to look at it tomorrow. I also think probably more like $14000-14200. Thanks for any info.
4 yrs and 82k seem a lot of miles. I personally don't think it worths $15k. Is it Audi certified? Most likely not due to the mileage.
Billy
When I looked at the car, it is in great shape in and out, other than quite a few touch up chips on the front. No door dings, paint everywhere else is great. Tires only have about 3k on them. Has the Bose option. No sport package. Drove quite well.
KBB has it for around $13.6k and Edmunds $14.7 for private party.
On another note, there are several like it listed in Ebaymotors, better options, lower mileage with service around $12.5. All seem to be either previously commercial registered or lease. Anyone have any experience buying one from Ebay?
Please post any news!
Here is the info I have:
The base price for an A4 1.8T Quattro Automatic (what I want, so thats all I have) is:
Base Price: $28,300
Destination: 690
options-
Cold Weather Pkg: 625, same
Premium Pkg : 2,000, same
Lighting Pkg: 750
will include Xenon lights, auto dimming mirrior, automatic headlights, and compass.
Infotainment Pkg: 1,000
The Infotainment System is the Bose Premium Sound System with either the Sirius or XM Satellite
Radio.
17" All-Season Tires 750
MetallicPearl Effect Paint 450
Other options are: Sport Package, Ultra Sport
Package, Audi Telematics and sometimes Rear Side Air Bags.
Cloth Upholstery is a n/c option. Leather Seating Surfaces are part of the Premium Package.
The following exterior colors will be available for the 2004 models:
Brilliant Black
Light Silver Metallic
Arctic White
Canvas Beige
Cambridge Green Pearl Effect
Dolphin Gray Pearl Effect
Ocean Blue Pearl Effect
Moro Blue Pearl Effect
Brilliant Red
Crystal Blue Metallic
Crimson Red Pearl Effect
I've been told by some that the 6 disc changer will no longer be standard, you'd have to order the premium sound package for that, but I've heard conflicting reports...
Any additional info anyone has, or a website, anything, please post as well.
Teddy, where have you seen specs? What does your dealer tell you re: availability? I'm hearing mid aug from multiple dealers in multiple states.
http://vwvortex.rely.net/artman/publish/article_1.shtml
Also, I am wary about dealers being honest in regards to new models. They need to move what they've got!
A few questions, it says Driver information display now optional on A4 1.8 T and 3.0 FrontTrak®. Is this the digital screen that shows Temp, and other types of information? If so, what pkg will that be available in, is it standard now?
What is the difference in body paint?
I also heard the 6 disch in dash CD changer is no longer standard on the A4 1.8T Qa, is this true?
Thanks,
Jason
There is no change in cd changer, and the changes in driver info display, although she did not know what pkg it would come in, is only on the frontrak not Quattro.
Also the tire pressure monitor system and full body paint will not be available till at least Feb.
anyone know about this?
We just bought a 2003 A4, and the dealer was asking for $2900 for the 6yr/100,000 mil warranty,$0 deductible, we decided to take the $100 deductible, knocking off a few hundred dollars more. You maybe able to get better deal with AAA, if you have AAA...
As far as for KN filter, I have used it in my Honda, no problem at all. Make sure you don't over oil it when you clean it...
We are very happy with our new A4, so far...
In November of 2001 I purchased a certified pre-owned 98 Audi A4 2.8 Avant Quattro with 56,500 miles, my second A4. This past July 11th I turned over the 9s and took the car over the century mark.
My CPO came with an extension of the original factory warranty thru 75k miles. I thought it might be useful to post the total of repairs to my car for which I would not have been out of pocket had a bought warranty coverage thru 100k.
That total is just under $2000.... $1912.00 as nearly as I can figure (my shop bills me for total labor and does not break out specific items
so I had to estimate how much was for normal maintainence vs. repairs that would have been covered by warranty.
-Major possible warranty items that would have been covered were a failed electric fan motor, replacement of warped rotors and wheel bearings all around (I have one wb that hasn't been replaced.
-Repair expenses were low until going over the 75k mark with one exception, the 70k service which included replacing the cam drive belt, v.-belt, thermostat front engine seals and pulleys,
none of would be covered under warranties.
-Repairing the fan motor was the only occasion for taking the car in other than services performed at the regular 5000 miles I use for l/o/f.
-the car has held up well cosmetically, inside and out. Paint has good gloss, few scratches, chips, some light swirl marks.
-Factory warranty repair was done on replacing front suspension bushing prior to my ownership.
-Factory recall repair was done @ n/c to replace vacuum hose related to emission control system.
-Vorsprung durch teknik! I really believe the A4 is a fantastic car, as well made and reliable as any. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
Long may you run!
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I have several questions as to proceeding.
1) I live in New Orleans. What is the best dealer to work with as far as deals and selection? I would be willing to drive a little bit to Jackson, Mobile or Houston.
2) What do you think I should be willing to pay for the negotiated price? How close will I get to invoice? Anyone with recent experience out there as to their negotiated price?
3) With the new 2004 due in late August, will I be able to negotiate a better deal on a 2003? How much better? Will I have to sacrafice options with scarce supply of 2003s?
4) Should I forget the 2003 and just hold on for the 2004? Will I even be able to get my hands on one before my old lease runs out? I'm not sure if I'd be willing to pay more for the new ones, but it may be cheaper to get a 6-speed which would rock!
Thanks a ton for your help.