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Mazda 626

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Comments

  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    I am in the market looking for a SPORTY sedan ... I've tried the Altima SE and it was not bad .. got as far as placing the offer but couldn't get it at the price I wanted. I stopped by the local Mazda dealership yesterday mainly because of the 2.9% finance incentive (in Toronto) and test drove the 626 LX-V6. Man, WHAT A BLAST to drive!!

    I tried a 5sp V6 and despite what Edmund's test report said, I found the gearbox to be ok. It's not Honda great but it's pretty good. At least I didn't miss a gear at all thru my 20min 'spirited' test drive. The clutch is a bit high ... power is smooth and great, lots of torque starting right from 2000rpm .... handling was even better. I expected the 626 to drive like a boat cos it's very sedan-ish looking but man, this is almost the best handling mid-sized sedan I've driven. The only better one is the Passat. I think it's up there with the Accord, and is lightyears better than the Altima SE (despite the racey styling and the supposingly sporty suspension).

    Anyways, I think it's a great deal overall. I don't like the grey interior all that much, nor the sedan-ish styling .... nor the lack of additional features like alarm, heated seats, stnd ABS ... that are usually available on competitiors. But the V6 with a stick in this price range is the whole point. I'm seriously thinking about purchasing it while the 2.9% still lasts.

    One quesiton though- are the 2000's reliable? I thought the prev. generation 626 has not been all that reliable ... has the O2 sensor problem been fixed on the 2000 model?

    Thanks, any info / comment is appreciated.

    #17
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Stick with the stick, and get the V6. It's reliable and stays as fun as your test drive.

    You're right about price. That Passat you like with a V6 and ES levels of equipment costs several grand more.

    -juice
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our Foxmoor 626 LX 5spd came with 2 remotes and
    three keys.
  • I'm in the market for new (to me) car. I recently saw an ad for 93 626LX w/ 78k. the guy only wants 5200 for it which is in my range. My quandry is, is this a decent price and how reliable/good is this vehicle? Most of the posts that I've come across are for newer (99/00) models. Some input would be very helpful.

    Also, if I do go this route, are there any problems that I can "nip in the bud" while they're still cheap to fix???

    THANX,
    Chad
  • samzsamz Posts: 4
    I'm also interested in buying a 2000 Mazda 626 V6 either LX or ES. I wonder if anyone can comment on its reliability and also if the car is quiet enough while driving. A dealer in San Jose offers me a price of invoice+$100 including all options for either of the above. Do you guys think it's a good deal? Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The concensus seems to be that you should avoid the automatic/4 cylinder combo, for reliability as well as acceleration. Anything else is a good bet in my book.

    -juice
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    I've driven the car and I'd say the car was very quiet. It's more like Passat quiet than Camry quiet though ... which is good, cos you won't be TOO isolated.

    As per reliability, so from the sound of it the V6 w/stick option (which is what I'll go for) is reliable? So far the followins seem to be the common problems:

    1/ Check engine light flickering, and engine dying all of a sudden.

    2/ O2 sensor problem (causing problem#1?)

    3/ Misaligned panels

    Appreciate if current 99/00 owners can comment on these problems .... I was *really* impressed with my test drive but want to clarify the reliability issue before I place an offer ....

    Thanks a lot
    #17
  • Saw your post on the Altima thread. I have a '99 V6 LX Auto tranny. Bought it in september and have 12,000 miles with no problems except a rattle in the door that was fixed by mazda. We have taken several long trips with the only complaint being the lack of comfortable seats for long journeys. We are thinking about buying an MPV now but if we had the need for another sedan we would buy the 626 V6 again. However, I would get a sunroof. Great car for the price.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I have a 1999 Protege DX. I was thinking (in a few years, of course) of upgrading to the 626. I want the V6, but don't wanna pay for the premium gas for it! Maybe I could get away with mid-grade??? Anyway, I took my Protege to the dealer for a tranny problem and they couldn't find it either. They said if it were a 626, it would make sense, because those tannys go up all the time. Pretty bad when the mechanic at the dealer tells you that. Anyway, should I go for the 626 ES V-6 about two years down the road or not? Also, can I get away with mid-grade (or regular) fuel for the V6? Thanks in advance. :)
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    (there was actually a thread on this particular topic .... I think it's still there under maintainence ... with 6 responses or so)

    Talking to the sales guy during my test drive (who also drives a 626 LX V6) he said the manual recommends using premium .... but he gets away so far by using mid grade .... he said the service tech's told him the mid-grade's fine.

    ANyways, you also get better mileage from premium over mid-grade, so you end up paying SLIGHTLY more for gas afterall ... unless you drive A LOT.

    #17
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Premium is "recommended", not required.

    We're actually running on 87 octane for the past several months, and mileage is unchanged, as is the power.

    -juice

    PS I stopped buying premium after 5 years on a 93 octane diet still required a fuel system service
  • billusbillus Posts: 4
    I have a '98 Mazda 626, 55000 miles that has been run exclusively on CA-MTBE regular unleaded from Rotten Robbie's gas stations. I've changed oil every 12,000 miles, skipped the 30,000 mile major servicing, but did the 60,000 at 51,000 miles. Other than that, I had the wheels realigned and tires replaced when I ran over a pipe on I-880.

    The car has been incredibly reliable. It stalled once on me, when mashing on the brakes, going uphill, shortly after I purchased it, but never since. When the idle was set a tiny bit too low (before the 60,000 mile servicing), the car did flutter when I had the turn signal on at a stop signal if it was in drive...annoying, but easily fixed.

    I have the ES/V6/automatic, by the way. The Bose stereo is mighty fine with the moonroof rolled back, though I wish it would automatically go to a safe volume when the car is started like my Taurus used to do...scared myself half to death a few times. The paint job is awesome (people still think the car is new), though it looks remarkably like a Honda, BMW or whatever other green car happens to be sitting around...I actually got upset trying to get into my boss' Honda one day and almost broke my key in his lock.

    I drive mostly on the highway, but am frequently in traffic (hey, it's Bay area, California). I get a solid 24 mpg overall.

    Acceleration isn't great when entering the Interstate...UNLESS you pop the "overdrive off" button, then it's like you cracked the whip on a horse. YOWZA, this baby can go! 0-60 takes about 12 seconds, but with O/D off, 10-60 is around 7 seconds with much tire squealing, growling and chest-thumping. I did this one day and found myself going 90 mph very quickly; the tachometer rolled over to 6000 rpm, then settled in just above 3200 rpm. If O/D is on, the car seems to develop torque right about the time when you let go of the gas...whodathunkit, but there's a growl when you back off and a sudden spurt of speed. Where was it when that 18-wheeler was bearing down on me?

    The car looks so mild-mannered the police don't pay too much attention to you...maybe if it were red.

    Toss this car into the curves while on a winding road, it comes back smiling and begging for more.

    The transmission is decidely harsh lately at low speeds (bounces between 1st/2nd)... If I shift it, it's much happier.

    I was rear-ended and walked away with a one-inch rip on the bumper and a displaced moonroof that popped back in.

    Oh, I did have a cooling problem that went away after I changed the coolant. It would heat up, the fan would come on, it would cool down...so forth and so on. Never overheated though.

    I'm looking at a new Jaguar S-V8 to replace my 626 when the lease expires (I was silly to get a 36000 mile lease), but it's hard not to just keep the car. I've spent less than $1000 on maintenance and repair, including 4 new tires when I hit the pipe in the road and oil changes at Jiffy Lube, plus one "60,000 mile major servicing" at Speedee Oil Change. When it comes out of the car wash, it looks so new and shiny, the engine running so quietly I have to check the tach so I don't hit the starter by accident.

    I couldn't be more happy unless it looked like a sports car or were a convertible. Now there's a thought! Make the 626 kinda' like a CLK!
  • The '93 was the first year of the fourth generation of 626, with a new body and a couple of new engines. The automatic is a revised version of Mazda's G4A-EL, now under computer control. (The Ford box much reviled in this forum and others was not installed in a 626 until the '94 model year.) It is decidedly willful, but a stomp on the loud pedal will adjust its attitude, and the little four-cylinder mill doesn't object to fairly high revs. (Torque peaks at 4500 rpm for this year, and horsepower at 5500 rpm; beyond that, the engine mostly processes gasoline into noise, and I've never hit the indicated 6500-rpm redline.) The estimate of 23/31 mpg is actually realizable in real life - the absolute worst I've ever recorded for a tank of gas was 20.8 mpg, and that was in the dead of winter.

    This chassis is very tossable; it likes the twisty stuff, something we don't have enough of out here on the prairie grid. The body rolls a bit in tight turns, but you never seem to lose grip unless you're going way too fast.

    There are relatively few issues with the '93. At around 80k, you should have already had one timing-belt change. The CV boots are probably starting to crack; if they're damaged, bite the bullet and get rebuilt axles, which cost scarcely more than proper boot replacement. Minor electrical gremlins occasionally pop up, which can often be blamed on oxygen sensors or plug wires. (Plug wires are startlingly expensive for this car.) So far - I'm at 86k on mine - I've had to replace the idle air control valve, the muffler, and one CV joint, and I have a crack in the mounting for the air tube that will be fixed later this month. And to my great relief, the moonroof doesn't leak.
  • 990501990501 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a '2000 Mazda LX and recieved 2 Keyless remotes, 2 Master Keys, and a valet key. All of this without requesting. Charlie Hillard Mazda-Fort Worth, Texas
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Lena,I too bought an LX.Ours has a left leg flexor.Does yours? This is our very first
    New car.I'm 43 and the wife is 33 and we'll
    have to wait till the winter '01 to get the
    feel of white stuff under the 205 60r 15s.
    Here in Westcentral IL we get alot.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think the longer car life claims are a myth.

    Despite buying the costliest name-brand premium fuel for 55k miles, we still needed the fuel system serviced.

    The only thing octane measures is a resistance to pre-ignition (knocking). It doesn't mean better quality gas.

    Perhaps they add detergents and claim miracles, but it may be those miracle-working detergents that clogged our fuel injection system in the first place!

    -juice
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    I'll throw in my 2cents as well ....

    First, on those additives .... I don't think they work. Most manufacturers do not recommend using them.

    2ndly, changing your oil frequently is the KEY to engine longevity .... using Premium gas has little to do with it.

    There are exceptions though - on engines with high compression (like some Honda VTEC engines, or most turbo engines), the higher octane level is required and you should put in premium fuel to avoid knocking.

    Then again, you get slightly better mileage from premium fuel, and it only costs a little bit more. Since the manual recommends it, I don't see why not.

    my2cents,
    #17
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just to be clear, the fuels we used may have had additives in them, but we certainly didn't add any ourselves.

    -juice
  • emjantamemjantam Posts: 2
    I just cleaned up my car and noticed the tires
    in the rear are in desparate need of replacement.
    I have the a 1993 ES with the V-6. It also has
    the factory alloy wheels on it. I love how quick
    and nimble this car is. My question is how wide
    can I go with the tires. I prefer the widest
    possible. I also understand that these are low
    profile tires and can be rather expensive. Any
    input would be appreciated!
    thanks! mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Going with a wider tire on the stock rims is a concept called Plus Zero.

    You should try to keep the same overall diameter, so you're speedometer is accurate and you don't lose acceleration (bigger tires mean lower gearing, which lowers revs on the highway but hurts acceleration).

    I believe your 93 has 205/55R15 tires, so you could get 225/50R15 tires, which have an almost identical diameter.

    Here's the catch: you have to measure the clearances to make sure the wider tire will fit. Check both the rear suspension, and the front fender clearance with the wheel turned all the way in each direction.

    The 225's will be 20mm wider, or about 10mm towards the inside fender.

    You can also ask a tire shop, but they may try to keep you on the stock size.

    Also keep in mind a wider tire alone will not necessarily improve your handling. You'll actually have more unsprung weight fighting the suspension, and wider tires also increase wind resistance slightly. Just some factors to consider.

    -juice
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    After doing some more homework it seems like the biggest problem with the 626 after the 98 model revision was A/T tranny and Check engine light flickering ....

    I'll be going for M/T so the A/T problem doesn't bother me. But it seems like the Check engine light problem is pretty common for 98 cars .... even some of the test cars for car mag reviews had the same problem ....

    Can 99 and 00 owners let me know if this problem has been fixed in their cars? Thanks in advance.

    #17
  • emjantamemjantam Posts: 2
    lot of useful info! Thanks for your time.
    (question # 132) Mike
  • sharmonsharmon Posts: 2
    I just purchased my first Mazda ever and bought a
    626 LX V6. I really love the car and the way that
    it drives. However, within the first 50 miles, I
    noticed a light knocking/tapping noise coming from the engine only when it is in park with the air conditioning off(lowest possible RPM). As soon as it is in gear or the air is on, the noise
    disappears. I returned it to the dealer where
    they looked at the car for two days, tried many
    fixes, but were unable to solve it. They think it
    is being caused by some break-in issue with the
    timing belt and that it will go away. Their
    advice,
    from their top tech was to continue the break in
    process and they would look at it at 3000 miles.
    At
    the time of this analysis, the car had only 600
    miles. While driving, the engine runs and sounds
    great. I just wanted to know if anyone has had to
    deal directly with Mazda and how user friendly
    they
    are in dealing with warranty issues?
  • The 626 was redesigned for '98, so the two models have some differences between them - mostly, the '98 is stretched slightly and the suspension is a tad softer.

    A typical LX option package might include a wheel upgrade, power moonroof, alarm/immobilizer, and power driver's seat. (ABS and audio upgrades are generally separate.)

    The drivetrains are pretty solid, though the automatic transmission tends to be willful (the Ford box in the four-cylinder cars is less so, but it has other problems) and the stick shift is just a little bit notchy. Be aware that at 60k miles you will need to change out the timing belt, which is Not Fun, and when the Mazda store announces a $249.95 timing-belt special, they don't mean for you. The V6 definitely prefers the higher-octane stuff, though it does have a knock sensor and will run on regular unleaded if it absolutely has to. This isn't the sort of car that will lure you out of a tricked-out Passat, but it's charming in its own way.
  • I may be able to pick one up for Cdn $11,900. Drawback: has 110,000 km (~70,000 miles). My biggest concern is that this price is too good to be true! Any recommendations as to what to beware of? I'll have a mechanic look at the car before purchasing and I'd like to point him at the likely soft spots.
    Or is the price about right!?
  • macker1macker1 Posts: 2
    Hi, just purchased a 96 626, it has only 68,000 kl (Canadian)on it so very low mileage, but the engine light continues to come on. The dealer says its not serious, computer check says its a egr valve. This was replaced but had no effect on the light coming on. Check with the previous owner and they said they had the same problem but the dealer could never pinpoint how to correct this problem.
    a. is this a common problem with 626's,
    b. is this a serious problem, and
    c. should the expired warranty still be in effect because of the problem never being fixed thereby making this a reoccurring problem that has never been fixed properly.
  • kathye3kathye3 Posts: 1
    My 98 Mazda 626LX started whining everytime I
    turned the steering wheel. It has 45,000 miles
    on it. I bought it used (it was a Hertz rental).
    It needed an entire steering gear. Fortunately
    it was under warranty. While I was at the Mazda
    dealer, an identical car,even with the same color
    was having its steering gear replaced. The super-
    visor said there must be a problem with a sub-
    vendor who provided these models with steering
    gears.
  • barich1barich1 Posts: 143
    They have also improved the look of the interior (supposedly) and the cupholders in the front now have covers. The headlights are of the prismatic type now. One of the most important improvements is to the ride and handling. Although I have not driven a 2000, the ride and handling are not that great on my '98. Supposedly they improved both for 2000. There aren't really any issues with this car unless you get the 4 cyl. with A/T. Which doesn't apply to you since you stated you want the V6.
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    There're also other minor cosmetic changes like interior color matching shift boot (for m/t), shift knob and steering wheel.

    I think the biggest changes are in steering and handling. The 00 model supposingly handles a lot better than 99 models. I've not driven 99 so I can't comment but I was really impressed by how accurate the steering is and how sporty the suspension setup is on the 00.

    Also, you'll get more for trade in on a 00 model a few years down the road. Personally I'd go for the 00 for the steering+handling improvement ....

    my2cents,
    #17
  • anu0anu0 Posts: 13
    Gwe50, the 93 626ES is a V6 which supposedly has a Japanese transmission (at least if an automatic).

    You should stay away from the 4 cylinder Mazdas (93 onwards) with automatics because the automatics are crappy Ford products and not Japanese.
  • All '93s have the revised version of the Mazda G4A-EL - seven solenoids instead of four, rotor pump, no throttle cable - that is currently designated GF4A-EL. Mazda didn't begin installing Ford CD4E transaxles until model year 1994, and then only in the four-cylinder cars.

    Because this transmission is completely computer-controlled, it's possible that something that seems like a tranny problem could actually be an electrical glitch. I'd have it looked at before signing the check.
  • tigger99tigger99 Posts: 1
    I found a '95 626 4 cyl. manual transmission for sale in Southern California for $6500 with about 80k miles. I've seen postings about the AT on the '94 having trouble. Is the MT on the '95 reliable? Is it made by Ford (like the AT on the '94)?

    Also, the dealer that I bought it from said that he just replaced both axles because the boots were leaking. Are there any other problems that I should look out for? Is this a good deal? Thanks.
  • The manuals are not made by Ford. And in the time it takes you to trash the gearbox, you'll probably have worn out three or four clutches.

    This generation of 626 has a tendency to develop CV-boot problems around 70-90k - right on schedule, I'd say. Check for oil leakage around the valve cover gasket, and especially in the spark-plug wells. And listen carefully for signs of the infamous "Mazda tick", which may (but usually doesn't) signal a bad hydraulic lash adjuster.

    Expect a timing-belt change at 120k, and do the water pump while you're at it, since it's essentially no additional labor. Beyond that, there isn't a whole lot likely to go wrong - the overload-prone ignition module in the '93/'94 cars was replaced for '95.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    I too,Wendel, own a new LX. A 4-cyl 5spd thats
    Freeport green. When the sun hits it right the
    primary color sneaks thru and you get a whisp
    of blue! Kinda neat I think. What color ya
    lookin' for?
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    I like that midnight grey (or whatever they call it... ) but there's none in Ontario with a 5sp ... and I'd have to wait 11 wks for them to make it in Flatrock .... so I am taking the black instead.

    Yeah I like that green too. The only 3 cars that are avail with 5 sp V6 in Ontario are black, sage green (that light green color) and driftwood (brownish beidge) ... I like the sage green too but don't like the green / grey interior combo so black is not bad.

    #17
  • 4bagger14bagger1 Posts: 1
    hi all.

    I am looking at a '99 626LX through Hertz.
    The car has 31K miles - anything I should be
    aware of? This is a 4 cylinder model.

    Thanks,
    4Bagger
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd avoid an automatic 626 4-cylinder that was a rental car. There are enough problems with that tranny already, plus you don't know how it was (ab)used.

    Just saw the new Millenia from the NY Auto Show, and I have to say the front end looks just like the 626. I'm not sure what Mazda is thinking - shouldn't they distinguish it MORE, not less?

    It's just a face-lift, but I like the old one better.

    -juice
  • gfoodmangfoodman Posts: 1
    I have a 99 LX-V6, automatic. Just for the fun of it I test drove the 00 LX-V6 with the optional 16" wheels. There is a large improvement in handling and steering feel. Don't know if this is due to the many suspension tweaks or to the larger wheels.
    Jerry
  • kcjones2kcjones2 Posts: 4
    Hi! Dan,

    I noticed a deep rumbling sound (high-low-high...like a wave) coming from my engine (it's a 93, 626Dx, AT with a transmission change at 72K and now doing 90K) as I accelerate between 40-60mph...as if some belt is not OK....beyond 60mph, the interval between 2 rumbles is so less as to be almost unnoticeable. The service engineer says it's vague and I need to wait till it develops further (or deteriorates) for him to make a correct diagnosis (more money in it for the dealership). Previously, the engine used to give out a smooth purr.....now I can distinctly sense and hear the sound has changed. Sometimes, I get the feeling that the one of the pistons is out of sync but smooth idling perhaps rules this out. Can you kindly advice ?

    Cheers; - KC Jones
  • macarthur2macarthur2 Posts: 135
    I have a 95 626DX four with five speed with 64k miles. Can't get it to idle but otherwise runs as it always had--very well. Is there such a thing as a fuel injection idle solonoid that could be bad? Has anyone had this problem and solved it? To this point this is the first problem I have had with the car. Thanks
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Check the idle air control valve. It may need a cleaning, or worse, replacement. (Mine went at 81k.)
  • macker1macker1 Posts: 2
    96 626 to Wolfie3 or anyone (macker1) Sat 08 Apr '00 (08:15 AM)

    Hi, just purchased a 96 626, it has only 68,000 kl
    (Canadian)on it so very low mileage, but the
    engine light continues to come on. The dealer says
    its not serious, computer check says its a egr
    valve. This was replaced but had no effect on the
    light coming on. Check with the previous owner and
    they said they had the same problem but the dealer
    could never pinpoint how to correct this problem.

    a. is this a common problem with 626's,
    b. is this a serious problem, and
    c. should the expired warranty still be in effect
    because of the problem never being fixed thereby
    making this a reoccurring problem that has never
    been fixed properly.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Too bad, I like my '95's shifter. All the better to rev the engine to overcome con #1.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Hyundai has made great strides, but they'll need long-term quality or buyers will abandon them in droves like they did in the late 80's.

    Mazda needs to get with the program. It's not enough to be Ford's stepchild. They need to keep unique powertrains, and maintain their better quality vis-a-vis Ford.

    Bring back the rotary. Put a real engine in the MPV. Offer a hybrid wagon off the 626 chassis.

    They're too mainstream right now, IMO.

    -juice
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    Korean companies are on the rise, but that's also mainly because they had a tiny market share to begin with, so having a 20% or 30% growth per year is much easier than say, Honda or Toyota.

    Koreans cars, like the Japanese cars back in early 80's, get you in the door by price and value. In terms of engineering, quality, reliability, refinement and build quality they're definitely behind japanaese, as much as they try to make their cars look like japanese imports. Latest survey on initial purchase satisfaction by JD Powers ranked Koren brands, esp Kia and Daewoo bottom in almost all categories. But they're good choices for buyers on a budget.

    Mazda is not doing well .... but it has never been a dominating player in the last 20 years ... as a matter of fact, its been in financial problems since 20 years ago ... and that's how Ford bought into Mazda. It is Ford's stepson and you always get that idea. Mazda does make a few exciting vehicles in Japan though like RX-7 (yeah rotary engine!), Astina (one of the best handling sedan in its class ... ) ... only if they can bring some of those over, they can reduce the engineering expenses for developing NA-specific products, and gives them a niche in the competitive market here....

    my2cents,
    #17
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've heard management say they want to be thought of as having the performance of a BMW with the style of an Alfa Romeo. Bring it on.

    BTW, that JD Power study had incorrect numbers and was withdrawn. They should reissue the revised results this week. Also, keep in mind that's only the first 90 days, not long-term enough to be meaningful to me.

    -juice
  • number17number17 Posts: 69
    I don't think any car manufacturer, with exception of exotic cars like Ferrari's and Lambogini's ... can match the performance of the BMW over the lineup, so Mazda has a LONG way to go just on the first part of their goal.

    JD Power does indeed only survey customer satisfaction in the first 90days (thus it's called 'initial quality survey') but I think it's safe to say if customers have things to complain in the first 90 days I don't think you have much to look forward to over the long term ....


    #17
  • genes555genes555 Posts: 10
    did you read the post # 164?

    the differnece in quality has come down to a fractions of problems... the quality differences are much more meaningless...

    here's an interesting quote that appeared in the 5/5/2000 edition of the LA TIMES...

    "Years ago... there wer significant gaps in there. Now you look at it, and we are fractions of one problem away from each other," said Cindy Hess, vice president of corporate quality for DiamlerChrysler.

    end.
  • I'm thinking of getting 89-92 5spd 626 or MX-6. I'm looking for reliable, comfortable and FUN to drive second car. I'm 6'4", so head room and legroom is very important.... no sunroom for me.
    Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Andrew.
  • genes555genes555 Posts: 10
    yeah but those studies don't indicate serious transmission or engine problems.

    mnay i heard were molding and radio reception quicks, etc across many manufacturers.

    nothing like what they had in the '80's.

    read the links in post #164 carefully and you will see that sonata and elantra ranked pretty high in their class according to strategic vision which i believe is more of a longer term study.
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