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Mazda 626

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Comments

  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    I reviewed the link. That light coming on could be a number of things. That's why you don't go to a mechanic who says O2 sensor. I'm going to wait for the light to come on more frequently and for longer peiods of time before repairing. Knowing that this car is OBD 1 means it probably won't have much info stored in the computer.

    Thanks for the assist.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Member Posts: 191
    if your 95 4cyl is an automatic, you will need the factory (or similar) diag unit to retrieve the code(s). If it is a manual shift, you can use a paper clip to get the codes. High mileage cars like yours usually have weak O2 sensors or backed up/stuck egr valves, but anything is possible. Like you probably saw in that link, there are a # of things that can go wrong, and interpretation of those codes is most important.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    Mine is a 5 speed.Have put 500 miles on the car since the light last came on. I'm not going to worry about it at this point.

    Thanks for the feedback.
  • lewshellewshel Member Posts: 37
    It is now in California (we live in New England) with our son. At 77,000 miles in 3 3/4 years it has been a good car with the usual Mazda auto transmission problems, better than the 97 4 cylinder LX we also had. The Mazda cloth seats are still amongst the most conmfortable and hold up. The V6 has a great power/weight ratio and always started in the winter. If Mazdas had a 4wheel drive sedan or sold a diesel in the US we might still be driving them.
  • cherostar2cherostar2 Member Posts: 4
    Our 2002 626 is a 4cyl and is a gas eater, getting no more than 22 in all around driving.The dealer did all his diagnostics and said according to his figures the car was getting 26! This is our 6th Mazda and the 2nd 626. The other was a '94 and got 29 on average with the same driver but had a 5 speed. Our two Proteges get 32 and more on the 1500 cc engine. In considering replacing one of the Proteges with another, with the same 4 and automatic that the most current 626 has, I am very, very skeptical. Sorry, Mazda, that dealer BS just does not wash, and I am off to other makes. Fairbanks Mazda in Longwood, FL is the dealer.

    cherostar
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    You were commenting that the transmission for the most current Protege is the same as the most current 626. I don't think its is. The 98-02 uses Ford At's doesn't it? I don't think the Protege uses a Ford AT at all. Thak god the 98 doesn't uses the same 4 cyl auto tranny that the 94-97 626's did. Those Ford AT's in the 94-97 626's still hurt Mazda to this day.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    At 60K you should replace the following:

    timing belt (cam and front crank seals optional)

    spark plugs (use OEM platinum plugs)

    spark plug leads (wires)

    fuel filter

    engine coolant (including radiator flush) - use only orange Mazda type coolant.

    In addition recommend fuel injector cleaning and EGR valve circuit cleaning, as well as EGR valve inspection and cleaning. Also, have all brake pads checked for wear.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Cory Fairbanks Mazda? I almost bought a car from them, Almost, because they charge $ 650 dealer fee (preprinted on their sales form and non-negotiable) and that is ridiculous (even if they sell you a car at invoice).

    BTW Mazda cars are not very fuel efficient. My 92 Protege LX with 1.8 liter DOHC 4 cylinder and 5 speed manual would only deliver 26 MPG on mid grade fuel in combined driving with A/C on. The 99 626 ES V6 with a 2.5 liter DOHC V6 and 5 speed manual is worse - I get only 23-24 MPG on premium fuel (combined MPG with A/C on). Both cars are geared really low and they both tach about 4000 RPM at 80 MPH in 5th gear. Redline is 7000 RPM in both. Low gearing is what kills the fuel economy. My 98 Nissan Maxima with 3.0 liter DOHC V6 and 5 speed manual gets 27-28 MPG in combined driving with A/C on on premium fuel. At 80 MPH the RPMs are 3200 in 5 th gear. And performance is much better than that of a 626 Mazda V6.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Except for the timing belt, you could do most of this work yourself. Instead of injector cleaning you could buy a couple of Bottles of Techron cleaner and pour it into your gas tank. Also, they recommend replacing the brake fluid every year, or at least every couple of years.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Member Posts: 124
    is your car V6?
  • fromoratfromorat Member Posts: 1
    did you ever gat an answer to your question? I have the same problem and traced it to the EGR Control sensor that is out of spec. I haven't replaced it yet because it is a $300 plus part from Mazda. I was hoping I could reprogram the car's computer to overcome the problem but haven't found anyting on the usbject yet that will enable me to do that. The sensor is mounted on top of the engine over the air filter to the right. It is only about 2 " by 1.5" by .5" and has one electrical connector and a vacuum tube. It takes about 5 minutes to remove.
  • njtrininjtrini Member Posts: 2
    99 626 LX 4cyl AT 60,000miles

    sound coming from right side of car, like if tire rubbing against a mudflap. Problem is i don't have a mudflap. Any answers/fixes?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Pretty good chance one of your wheel bearings is going bad. They make more noise when you put stress on them, like going through a turn that leans the weight of the car on the bad side. It will also get louder the faster you go. Have the bearings inspected on the right side of the car, but chances are its probably the front wheel since they are under the most stress.
  • njtrininjtrini Member Posts: 2
    thanks, i figured, wheel bearings, cv joint or axle. have 90 day bumper to bumper warranty, just wanted to narrow it down to save on making trips back to dealer.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I finally replaced the timing belt for the first time at 101k miles. Now in retrospect, doing this myself was not worth it. Working on this V6 engine is a nightmare. Absolutely no room to get to anything. Interestingly enough, the belt was in good shape after 101K miles with no visible signs of wear or deterioration. Two of the three belt tensioner pulley bearings were rattling though, and needed replacing. All oil seals were still dry. The water pump was dry and in good shape (no coolant seeping through the weep hole and the shaft rotating smoothly).

     

    I replaced the belt, all three idler pulleys, the tensioner, the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals,

    the waterpump, and the valve cover gaskets.

     

    The cost of Mazda parts is outrageous. Each idler pulley for the belt is $ 160 from Mazda, the tensioner is $ 190, the belt about $ 90. The valve cover gaskets are $ 30 a piece, plus you need 18 bolt sealing washers at $ 6 a piece. Even though I get parts at a substantial discount from the local Mazda dealership, I found a timing belt kit at Autozone for about $ 100, which contains the belt and all three idler pulleys. Mazda sells these parts idividually for a total of about $570! I still had to buy the tensioner from Mazda because apparently nobody else sells it.

     

    Two of the three idler pulley bearings were really shot after 101 K miles, so they needed replacing. Valve cover gaskets were seeping oil a little, so I replaced them. In order to get to the rear head valve cover, you need to remove the intake manifold. This means replacing another two gaskets, unbolting the fuel lines, vacuum lines and harness connectors. The intake manifold and the injector fuel rail are removed as a unit.

     

    Some tips on replacing the belt:

     

    Use an impact wrench to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt, then a puller to remove the pulley. Do not use a gear type puller on this one because you can damage the crankshaft sensor teeth on the back of the pulley.

     

    You need to remove the oil dipstick tube to be able to remove the crankshaft position sensor. It is a good idea to replace the dipstick tube sealing O-ring ($ 3.50 from Mazda).

     

     

    You need to remove the front engine mount to remove and install the timing belt. You need to support the engine by placing a piece of 2X4 on a jack saddle and jacking under the flat portion of the oil pan. One of the engine mount bolts goes through the waterpump housing.

         

    To remove one of the timing covers, you must first remove the power steering pump pulley.

     

    I you reuse the timing belt tensioner, you must compress the piston in in a vise or with a hydraulic press and insert a thin hardwire pin to hold the piston compressed (You pull out the pin to release the piston after the new belt is on).

     

    There is no room to use an impact wrench on one of the camshaft sprocket bolts, so to break the bolt loose I held the cam in place by slipping an adjustable wrench over the hex portion of the cam (with valve cover removed of course). You hold the cams the same way to torque the camshaft sprocket bolts to about 100 ft-lbs.

     

    When replacing cam sprocket and crank seals, take care not to damage the rotating surfaces or the aluminum seal housing. The best way to do this is to drill a small hole in the middle of the seal body, screw in a small sheet metal screw and use a small sliding hammer to pull the seal out.

     

    When replacing the intake manifold gaskets, make sure the convex side of the gasket is facing toward the manifold.

     

     

    Replace the copper sealing wahers on the fuel rail banjo fitting when reinstalling the intake manifold. I could not find these washers anywhere except at Mazda dealer and they had to order them.

      

    Use a torque extension with an impact wrench to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to spec (in this case 120 ft-lbs). (Note: NAPA sells torque extensions individually and you can also buy a set. They work only with an impact wrench).

     

    I also found that both engine drive belt (alternator, water pump, A/C compressor, P/S belts) tensioner pulley bearings were marginal and needed replacing. Of course, nobody except Mazda sells these pulleys. Mazda offers replacement bearings for the pulleys which will do the trick. They are available for about $ 18 a piece, but must be pressed in with a hydraulic press.

     

     

     

    I have changed a number of timing chains and timing belts before, but this one was the most difficult by far. If you decide to do this yourself, have fun.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    My 99 ES V6 has two drive belt tensioner (idler) pulleys, one for each belt. The pulley bearings did not sound good after 101K miles, so I decided to replace them. I could not find them anywhere except at the local Mazda dealer, and they wanted about $ 170 for both of them. Fortunately, Mazda offers replacement bearings for these pulleys. The part number is 9960-62-203. They cost about $ 18 a piece. Not cheap, but a lot better than $ 170 for two pulley/bearing assemblies.

     

    The pulley bearing replacement procedure is as follows:

     

    1. Jack up the front of the car and remove the passenger side front wheel (I always use two small 2 ton jacks, one under each front fender crease, plus jackstands for safety reasons)

     

    2. Remove the splash panel

     

    3. Break loose the center bolt on each tensioner pulley with a 17 mm box end wrench. This is best done from under the car for the upper pulley. Turn the tensioner screws with a 10 mm wrench or nutdriver counterclockwise to loosen the belts. Remove the tensioner pulleys by removing the center bolt.

     

    4. Use a 7/8 inch socket to press out the old bearings. Use a 30 mm socket to press in new ones until they are fully seated. These bearings are an interference fit and greasing the side of the bearing helps ease the installation. Note: These sockets happened to be about the right size for the job. I used a 20 ton hydraulic shop press for the job.

     

    5. Installation of the upper pulley is difficult, because there is so little room to work. You may have to remove the collant overflow tank to gain better access. Each pulley has a special thick washer on the backside, which centers the pulley on the tensioner bracket. Make sure you do not forget to reinstall these, and in proper orientation to the pulley (flat side of the washer goes against the pulley mount bracket).
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Member Posts: 124
    wow sounds like a lot of work...I'm at 90K now so it looks like I will be doing mine next summer...but after reading your post I just might let my mechanic do it....I wonder how much do they charge for the job?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I got a quote of $ 570 from my local Mazda dealer. This was for replacement of the timing belt and three oil seals only. This did not include three idler pulleys at $ 160 a piece, waterpump at $ 120 plus labor, timing tensioner at $ 190, or replacement of the valve cover gaskets, (which is by itself about $ 400 job including parts because of the amount of work required to remove and reinstall the intake manifold), or drive belt pulley bearings.

     

    If you have a Mazda dealer do this work, you will not have the option of using aftermarket belt idler pulleys if you need them, so you will have to pay them additional $ 480 for a set of three. And if you replace the water pump, you must also replace the engine antifreeze mix.

     

    As I mentioned before, Autozone sells a timing belt kit for Mazda 626 V6. It is a good quality kit, made in the USA by Goodyear company (part # GTK0214). This kit contains a timing belt and all three idler pulleys (but no tensioner, which is Mazda exclusive and retails for $ 190).

     

    What is unusual about the 626 V6 timing belt is that there is a dip and an idler between two cam sprockets. This makes the belt reinstallation much more difficult because you have to pull the belt tight over both cam sprockets, and bolt the no 1 idler pulley on while pushing down on the belt. Starting the bolt in the block is hard and there is danger in crossthreading it. On the plus side, the cams stayed in their positions after the old belt was removed, unlike my Protege, in which case I had to line up the cam sprockets with the timing marks and hold each with a wrench against the valve spring tension while installing the belt.

     

    Well, at least I did install the belt and waterpump correctly. The car started immediately and idled as smoothly as before. No oil leaks or coolant leaks. the waterpump on this engine uses a moulded O-ring for a gasket. You must be very careful not to pinch this O-ring while installing the pump, or you will get a massive coolant leak when you start the car and will have to redo the entire timing belt job again.

     

    A friend of mine had his engine destroyed on a Mazda 323 when somebody overtorqued the crankshaft pulley bolt with an impact wrench. The end of the crankshaft split, causing massive oil leak and seizing of the engine. This is why I recommend the use of a torque extension with an impact wrench or a special tool which enables one to hold the crankshaft pulley stationary while torquing the bolt. (I still have such tool for Mazda Protege, but it will not fit the 626 V6 engine.)

     

    In another local case, a man took his Toyota Tacoma pickup to Pep Boys for timing belt replacement. They apparently installed the belt incorrectly and tried to compensate by altering the ignition timing. His truck is still messed up and now it will not start.

     

    I definitely do not recommend doing this job by yourself if you do not have the proper tools and mechanical knowledge. And if you have somebody else do it, please take it to a reputable mechanic. I trust our local Mazda dealership mechanics, even if they charge high rates for labor.

     

    The most agravating factor for this job on this car is lack of space and access. You have only few inches of room to work with. Removing the intake manfold involves unplugging just about every electrical harness connector and vacuum line in the engine compartment, so you need to label these for proper reinstallation. And of course, they use a manifold support bracket in the rear of monifold where you cannot see it, so there is always one more line to detach, or one more bolt to remove. Also recommend bagging the bolts and screws, as there will be a lot of them.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    Hi all im in the market again and I ran over two Mazdas that caught my eye, one is the 929 the interior and the larger engine brought me to that one, the other is the 626 the interior isnt as plush but its ok and a stick would be preferable with a V-6. Now with im guessing 100k miles on them used what can I expect to go wrong? These are the first Mazdas I have ever considered buying and I am serious about it but I am just worried about the long term cost, especialy the Auto tranny on the 929. Im working with a 6.5k budget so they would be mid 90's with around 100k on them, I will not go with a 4 cylinder modle.

     

    Also how do they handle? I know the 929 is RWD and the 626 is FWD does that create a very noticeable differance.. because most likly i will be trying to cut the apex on that corner in the mountain...
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    after researching a bit it seams as though the 929 has alot of tranny drive train problems, this is discouraging because I liked the interior the most...
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    If you are looking for reliability, get a 626 with a manual transmission, either a 4 cylinder or a V6. For a car with about 100K miles the most important thing is the condition of the car. Be prepared to spend some money on repairs, such as CV joint boot replacement.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Currently Autozone has a special on the Bosch MicroEdge wiper blades. If you buy two, you get $ 5 off. I recently bought a set for my '99 Mazda 626 and so far I am very pleased with the performance. These are the best wiper blades I ever had on any car! You need a 19 inch blade for the driver's side and a 20 inch blade for the passenger side. The cost for two blades is about $ 15. You cannot even get a pair of refills from your Mazda dealer for that! The installation is very simple - simply push the new blades onto the wiper arm hook mounts.
  • navy_dudenavy_dude Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I'm new to this site. I own a 89 626 which I love dearly. It has 180k but it's been a great car to me. Lately, I've been having high rev problems with my engine. When I start the engine or I'm standing in a traffic light sometimes the engine revs up to 2000 rpm. Someone said that I should replace my distributor. Anyone having this problem?

    Thanks.

     

    navy_dude
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    I sold my 626 a year ago and I still miss it. I bought a 1998 model in 2001 from the first owner with just under 50,000 miles. I sold it with just under 100,000 miles. I never had any trouble with it at all; in fact, the only work I did to it was brakes and CV joints (at 80k miles).

     

    It was an ES-V6 with a five speed. Very smooth, very comfortable, very fast. Every now and then I call the guy who bought it and ask how it's doing, and I regret it even more as he has done nothing to it yet! Seller's remorse... If you have one of these hold on to it!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I have a 99 ES V6 5 speed manual with 107K miles, which I bought new. I have never been able to sell mine for any satisfactory amount, so I am keeping it. I advertised this car several times, but never received even a single phone call, and dealer trade-in offers were an insult each time.

    Now I seriously believe that this car is greatly unappreciated by potential used car buyers - a 4 cylinder beat up Honda Accord with twice the mileage sells for more than a mint condition 626 ES V6.

     

    Now I do not mind driving this car because I have had no problems for a long time. And the seats are very comfortable.

     

    Can I ask how much did you sell yours for?
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    I asked one dealer about it and they flat told me I'd be better to sell it myself; with that many miles they'd just wholesale it, so I'd get less than predicted auction value. I think people get turned off by the miles, not realizing it is just as reliable as Honda/Toyota, or don't appreciate the difference the V6/5-speed combo makes in this car.

     

    In December of 2003 I advertised something along these lines:

     

    "1998 626 ES-V6 rare 5-speed, 100k, all power, maint, roof, ABS, trac, exc cond $6,000 obo"

     

    I only got one phone call, a man and his college-bound son. They came straight out and were on the test drive for 20 minutes. When they came back they didn't even get out of the car, he rolled down the window and said it was geared very low. He asked if they could get it out on the interstate (about 5 miles away) to see how it drove, as his son was going to be on the highway alot; so I said "fine." They were back in about 45 more minutes and as soon as he got out he said "I guess we need to talk money."

     

    I let it go for $5700. If I could go back, I'd give myself $1,000 not to sell it! What an idiot.
  • navy_dudenavy_dude Member Posts: 2
    I'm with all the owners of Mazda 626. It's a great car and I would not sell it b/c I know I would not get the fair resale value it deserves. As a matter of fact, my 98 626 has over 180K miles. It zips about a quart between each oil change and the engine idle is often quite high (over 2000 rpm), but it still runs great and the gas mileage is just as good or better than my 2000 Civic! How's that for a 17 year old car?

     

    I'm even thinking about replacing the engine with a rebuilt engine. It will cost me around $2000 to replace it, but I don't think I can buy a car that trustworthy for that kind of money. Besides, once I fall in love, I don't fall out of love (know what I mean!). I'm keeping mine until the car falls apart. This summer, I'm planning to do a cross country from East coast to West coast. That will prove to all you doubters to place your faith to where it belongs. Keep posted. By the way, anybody have any solution to the high rpm problem? Thanks.

     

    navy_dude
  • dougweaverdougweaver Member Posts: 48
    Hi we just purchased a 98 Mazda 626 last weekend. We are happy with it but something feels a little loose in the suspension. When we hit a bump it sounds kind of funny and a little vibration. Could this be the CV joints or struts or shocks? Thanks dpw
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Probably not CV joints, more likely struts or perhaps sway bar links. I had to replace both rear sway bar links on my 94 626, they caused a lot of funny noises over bumps. Don't know if your noise or vibration is coming form the front or rear.

     

    If it is the front, it could be front sway bar links, ball joints, or struts.

     

    I would be pretty easy for a trusted mechanic to put it up on a lift & check these things out.

     

    Dave
  • awc01awc01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 626 5 speed with about 145k on it. Bought it with 119 k and have had no problems besides the check engine light and high RPMs. Seems to me these are quite common problems. Here's my question I m planing on doing the left CV joint this weekend. Im a fairly accomplished wrench turner, just not on this car. Do I need any special tools or expertise? I can have it done for around 200 at any independent garage, but dont like to spend $ on something I know I can do. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions from anyone? Any ideas on the engine light and high rpm's?
  • scannscann Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 which is bucking. The first year I had no problems. The bucking occurs when slowing (to turn a corner) and then you accelerate. Mazda service can't find anything wrong with it. The used car manager is the only person that can make the car buck besides me. I have taken the car in at least 4-5 times. I have written two letters to Mazda on how dissatisfied I am with this car. They are telling me it is my driving habits! I am 48 years old and have had many cars, this is the only car that I have had that bucks. It is not my driving habits! I bought this car brand new off the lot and if I could afford to be without my car I would paint it yellow and park in front of the dealership. They offer nothing to make things right. I hate this car.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I had a Ford Contour that had the same problem. I had just purchased the car used. Now, if you have the 4 cylinder 626-it is the SAME TRANSMISSION (CD4E) as the Ford Contour. Now, I went through this for months. It was narrowed down to an internal electrical problem inside the transmission. I wish I had some good news for you, but they could never exactly pin-point this problem. I ended up trading the car in and losing about 3K! Good luck!
  • leggealeggea Member Posts: 2
    Hello

    I have 99 626 lx v6, check engine light, EGR MALFUNCTION, not sure if I need to pay $349 for replacement or just try to clean it. Need help.
  • leggealeggea Member Posts: 2
    I have 99 626 lx v6, check engine light, EGR MALFUNCTION, not sure if I need to pay $349 for replacement or just try to clean it. Need help.
  • osorioosorio Member Posts: 1
    Where can I find the part numbers for all the engine mounts of my Mazda 626 1997 ???
  • scannscann Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. Actually I have a 6 cylinder. Would that be the same as a Ford Contour transmission? I will also probably end up trading this car in. I am very dissatisfied with not getting any help from Mazda Corp. or the dealership where I purchased the car. I could understand some problems if I purchased used but I bought this car brand new off the lot.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Nope, it's my understanding that the V6 has a Mazda designed transmission in it. There are a few really good sources on the web for th 626 and the transmissions for these cars. I have them bookmarked, but the rules of use state I can't give you "competing websites". But if you do a "google search" you will find them!
    Good luck!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    The EGR valve could be cleaned if it is sticking due to carbon buildup on its stem. However, if the vacuum diaphragm is dmaged, then the valve muyst be replaced. There are several electrical solenoids in the EGR valve circuit, so it is important to know what is the real problem.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    You should check your CV boots at least every 10K miles (after about 70K original miles)because even if the boots are in good shape, the clamps may come loose and in this case the boot will start slinging grease. This happened to my car recently. No big deal - the clamps are only a few bucks , and I also bought CV joint grease for about $ 1.80. You need a special tool for crimping the new clamp - Auto Zone rents them for free with a deposit. I removed the old loose clamps, slid the old boot down the axle shaft, repacked the CV joint with proper grease (there was no dirt in because the boot was not torn), slipped the boot back on and crimped the new clamps on. I used the "ear" type clamp on both ends of the boot.

    Some say that it is a good idea to spray CV boots with silicone periodically to make them pliable and keep them from cracking and subsequent splitting.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
  • cbrantleycbrantley Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have the exact same problem on my 99 ES V6. Did any one give you a good answer on cleaning it? I am getting replacement costs all over the place. One repair shop quoted me 900.00 for the part and 225.00 for labor!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Must be a V6 thing. OEM EGR valve on my four-banger is around $150 and takes less than an hour of labor.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    The V6 EGR valve retails for around $ 300 from Mazda. I would believe the $ 900 figure if they replaced every component in the EGR control circuit. As I said before, there are several control solenoids in the circuit. You do not want to replace all parts hoping that one of them was defective. They can be individually tested.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Member Posts: 124
    I would try to clean it first..here are instructions on how to do it:

    Cleaning it is quite simple, providing that you have the right tools. It's best you use some compressed air, some TB cleaner and some safety goggles. First off, you want to take off the thottle body by removing the 4 bolts that hold it down and disconnect the various cables, connectors and hoses that hold it down.

    Now disconnect the the EGR hose and the EGR position sensor connector wire. Before removing the unit, make sure that you do a vaccum check to assure that it's holding a vaccum('98 and newer models don't have to worry about that, being that it's electronicly controlled) Once that's done, unbolt the two 10mm bolts that hold it down and don't worry about replacing the gasket, it's metal and is reusable for life.

    With the EGR off and in your hands, very slowly spray some TB cleaner into the EGR valve with the holes pointing up and let it sit like that for the time being while you are doing other work (I'll get to that in a second). Letting the throttle body cleaner sit and soak will break up any carbon that might have built up within the valve and cause it to slightly stick open and cause the eratic idling.

    Now, back under the hood. Sometimes, the EGR passages get caked up with carbon, especially the V6 models and especially the Millenia 2.5L engine. Take your TB cleaner and spray into the hole on the IM. Spray until you see something coming out of the EGR passage where it bolts up at. The TB cleaner should be soaking within the carbon deposits and loosening it up.

    Now that you have sprayed passage down, take an air chuck and blow into that passage within the IM and hold your hand over the plenum hole so it don't blow back on you. If there's pressure, it's clogged pretty bad. But if now, you'll hear it come out of the EGR passage.

    When the hole is unclogged, put everything back together (make sure you empty out the TB cleaner from the EGR valve and reinstall it) and disconnect the battery negative and hold down on the brake for about 10 to 15 seconds to reset the computer (if you have a factory radio, make sure you have the code ready before doing). Now crank it up and you should be ready to go.

    Good luck
  • rondirondi Member Posts: 3
    Hi
    My Mazda OD light started blinking yesterday and the car bucked for about 100 miles. I took it up to Canada, hoping I can find a cheaper way to replace the tranny, since I'm sure that's the problem (and knew this car has that guaranteed problem). Any suggestions for the best way to go in Vancouver, CA? What to avoid? I've heard that they never work well after you replace them (even though it's never been great as is).

    The light stopped blinking after the border crossing, but I'm not assuming it got fixed, but just that I'll be able to get it at least to a repair job instead of a tow.

    thanks!!
    Rondi
  • stuckwith626stuckwith626 Member Posts: 4
    Can someone please tell why my mazda 626 lx 1995 cuts off when i put it in reverse. The mechanic said something about low compression in the engine. I started having this problem when one the car ran hot and shut off on me. I had the water pump, timing belt, and head gasket changed.
    what is the problem i've read alot of horror stories on line.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Did somebody change the timing belt recently? An improperly installed timing belt could possibly cause stalling when the car is put in gear, however, it would tend to do so even if put in drive. (I have seen this happen with a loose timing chain on a Chevy truck).

    Improperly instlaled timing belt will cause low compression because some vavles may be partially open when they need to be closed.
  • stuckwith626stuckwith626 Member Posts: 4
    Yes the timing belt was replaced so was the water pump,head gaket,and radiator flushed. But the problem persists and he says now something about some rings might be messed up. Also he says the check engine light is not coming on anymore.
  • illmaticillmatic Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1996 mazda 626 and it has some problems or it might have some problems.
    The check engine light always come on and I don't really know why. Maybe some of you guys can tell me what could be the cause or what kind of problems can i be looking for in my car.
    Also there is a sound that i here in the transmission box when i press the brakes.
  • rokoszrokosz Member Posts: 2
    Hi Folks,

    I backed up against a rock after sliding off the road and snapped the sway bar links.

    Looked simple enough to replace so I got the parts. Now I've spent the last 2 hours trying to remove the old sets. I got one upper off but the other three are frozen.

    the other upper i can turn with a visegrip -- but can't get the allen/vise combination to loosen.

    the lowers I can't seem to get steady enough leverage because the bar itself wants to move.
    :mad:
    I've had the bolts wd40'd for 2 hours now. I've tap, tap, tapped until my ears hurt and wire brushed the threads to clean them. Still no luck.

    Anybody have any suggestions? Is there a dremel attachement that'll cut nuts and bolts?

    thank you all
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