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Mazda 626



  • kaspar10kaspar10 Posts: 11
    Although I agree that the 626 is kind of dull, it is not ugly. It is clean, neat and well balanced, a design that will look good for years. Since I tend to own cars for a while, that is important to me. What can you really do with a four door sedan design anyway? It is limited. Nissan took a bold route, which is good, however the Altima may look dated quickly. Like their current truck design. The tail lights on the Altima are a trendy item which will not age well. The Accord and Camry take a very conservative approach. I had to look at the total package and see what fit me the best. Other people may make other choices, for other reasons. That is fine. I like my choice!
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Back in Doubleought when looking to replace our 14yr old car(12 of which it resided in our garage) the above criteria was why I'm now a proud member of this discussion group.We test drove several autos.
    Our sound decision keeps zoom/zoomin' along with only regular visits to our mechanic's shop for oil
    change,tire rotate,filter checks,etc. and his coffee!! The latter was for me not our 130 ponies.
    Thumbs Up USA Bryan
  • A lot depends on whether it's important that your vehicle Make A Statement for you. Personally, I'd rather make my own statements rather than delegate the job to an inanimate object, even one with which it's possible to bond. (Sandy and I have done two extensive road trips totalling around 9000 miles, but I'd never ask her to speak up in my behalf.)
  • Hey, relax, everybody. I just got my new 626 home. It's now officially One Of The Most Beautiful Things On Earth. Only Uma Thurman in Dangerous Liaisons has sleeker curves.
  • Hi

    Want to put synthetic oil in my 626 on the next service. Which one do you recommend? I have 24000 now, will change oil on 25, probably.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    I've been putting Mobil1 synthetic in my 2000 since the second oil change. It's highly recommended in many circles (including the Probe/MX6/626 FAQ site), and seems to be available at most of auto parts stores I frequent.
  • Nice. It's good to hear that synthetic is OK. I'm in Florida and some of my frends have reccomended me to use 10W-40 instead of 5W-30. What do you suggest? Which make is the best for 626? Mobil, Shell, Castrol etc???
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our doubleought has 130hp and we still use pure.
    We want to get opec out of our pockets. What
    viscoity for a 4cyl?
  • I am thinking of buying 2001 Mazda 626 which has about 20000miles. The dealer price is $12K.
    Is this a good car. There are about 4 cars 2000 and 2001 626s around that price range.
    Pickup seems to be sluggish. Otherwise seems like a good car.
    Any comment is appreciated
  • I've got the V-6, so I'm putting in 10W-30 as recommended by the manual. I'm guessing 5W-30 is recommended for the I-4, right? My wife's Taurus has a 3.8L V-6 (my 626 is only a 2.5L), and Ford recommends 5W-30 for that, although it can also take 10W-30. I'm guessing the aluminum alloy block/heads in my 626 may account for the difference there.

    My point is that with most engines you have a choice. Every car I've worked on had a single recommended weight oil which is probably considered ideal for most operating conditions. You will also notice a bar chart in your manual that shows alternative oils which can be selected for use in different operating conditions. It typically shows each acceptable oil viscosity with a temperature range that it can be used in. Personally, I would try and stick to what's in the chart despite what anyone else tells you, as the manufacturer has likely tested those oils for your type of engine.

    hmamontov, you probably hear of folks in your area using heavier weight oils because engines run hotter in the Florida climate, which thins out the oil more. In the NE where I live, some folks put a lighter weight oil in for the winter when the stuff gets thick in the cold. I used to have an old Pontiac V-8 which liked 5W-30 when the temperature dropped below 20, because it had a very worn and tired valvetrain. 10W-30 was the manufacturer recommended weight, but 5W-30 and 10W-40 were on the chart for lower and higher operating temperature ranges, respectively.

    What brand of oil? That's tough to say. I think that decision should be based more on quality and availability of the product than what make of car you drive. I like Mobil1 because it's considered by most to be a high quality synthetic, and it's easy to get in my area (although more costly than most others). There's some discussion about various synthetic oils on the Probe/MX6/626 FAQ at:

    Definitely check out the site even if you use a mechanic to maintain your 626. Whoever put it together really seems to be very knowledgeable about Mazdas. I've used the site a few times to perform maintenance on my 626 (not ready to fork over $100 for the factory shop manual yet), and I've found it to be very accurate and thorough.

  • The four-cylinder/automatic combination will not win many drag races, though it doesn't seem anywhere near as poky once up to speed. I don't recommend it for anyone who goes into conniptions whenever the tach needle pokes into the top half of its range. (I was once married to someone like that; no, this isn't why I am no longer so.)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Check wiith a Mazda Mechanic in your area. In the Intermountain Area they only recommend 5W-30. This is because of the hydraulic valve lifters. Thicker oil makes them click, and wears them out quicker. They don't even recommend 10W-30. So I blend 2 quarts of synthetic and the rest conventional.
  • '98 and after don't have them. Really.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Is strictly for fuel efficiency. Don't let anyone tell you it's for quicker, better lubrication.
  • That's complete BS, maltb. Oil viscosity absolutely does affect the lubrication of an engine. Heavy oil does not flow through oil passages as easily in cold weather. Thin oil breaks down more easily in hot weather. Now, if you don't believe that those two situations adversely affect the ability of the oil to properly lubricate the engine, then perhaps you should go back and take your high school chemistry and physics classes over again.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If you really think that they use thin oil for lubrication I suggest you start reading up. The viscosities used in IC engines really don't vary much (anywhere from 5w/20 to 20w/50). True, the heavier oils will flow slower and cause a higher oil pressure but they also "stick" around longer (basic chemistry , right?).

    Like I said before, the only reason newer cars are using thin oil is to make the engine spin easier making them more efficient and using less fuel.
  • The last Mazda 626 was made Aug 30th. The new 6 starts to be built in October.
  • Ok, I was feeling a bit adversarial the other day maltb, sorry to flame you. If you're claiming that "they", meaning the auto manufacturers, use different oils to acheive better mileage well I can't disagree with that. I completely agree that oil viscosity affects mileage.

    However, I have done my reading, and I don't think you can discount the effects temperature and viscosity have on the lubricating properties of an oil. This is very well documented and I think you'd be hard pressed to argue otherwise. The API classifications specifically factor in ease of cranking and ability of an oil to flow at low temperatures. You can argue that the difference between viscosity ratings are very small as much as you want, but that doesn't equate to insignificant differences in lubrication properties under different operating temperatures.

    Lastly, did you ever put thinner oil in an old engine to quiet the noisy lifters in the winter? It works.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I have yet to see a study that shows thinner oil linked to engine longevity. To reiterate, I'm speaking of commonly marketed weights. It really comes down to efficiency and less to do with lubrication.

    Lastly, did you ever put thinner oil in an old engine to quiet the noisy lifters in the winter? It works.

    It works because of the caking that has has nothing to do with lubrication but everything to do with cleaning. If you think thin oil works well, try Rislone. However, don't pick up 4 quarts of that for your next oil change.
  • I've not seen any research on viscosity's effects on engine longevity either, but I'd like to see it.

    As for quieting lifters, sure there is a long term cleansing effect with the thinner oil. If you've run an engine with nasty valvetrain ticking in the cold you also know that it's much worse in the first few minutes. I'm still maintaining that a thinner oil is going to reach those parts more quickly and have a positive effect. Is it a significant advantage? I don't know for sure, and perhaps I never will. I'm buying new cars now and don't plan to see them through to 200,000 miles anymore!

    I've actually used Rislone many, many times with oil changes in high mileage engines (and no, I never filled the crankcase with it). I was always quite happy with the results, although some say that solvents can strip too much caked oil away from the engine too quickly and leave large amounts of the stuff in bad places. Ever see a problem with that?

    Well, at any rate the recommended 10W-30 is working quite well in my 2.5L, and perhaps this spirited discussion will inspire me to experiment with the 5W-30, and see what it does to my mileage. You drive a 626 maltb? What oil are you using?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    You drive a 626 maltb?

    At the moment no. I had a 98 2.0 and a 99 2.5, both manual trans. The 2.5 was a hoot to drive. I'm looking forward to getting into a Mazda6 sometime next year depending on my transportation needs.
  • My '00 626 is the best car I've owned so far (of course it's longevity is yet to be proven). I'm also not one of the "more HP is better" proponents, and I really think the Mazda 2.5L is a very well designed engine. The 5-spd isn't the best I've driven, but it's not terrible. Love the suspension as well, it handles better than any 4 dr. I've had.

    Financial situation permitting, I'd like to replace my wife's Taurus (the worst car either of us have ever owned) with a new 6 wagon when they come out. Hopefully that Duratec will prove to be a valuable asset for the 6. Our Taurus has the old 3.8L (not very well designed), and I've not had personal experience with the Duratec although I'm hearing good things about it.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Funny, I always heard the opposite from what you guys are saying. Thicker oil has always helped quiet noisy lifters in my high mileage engines. The thinner the oil, the noisier it got.
    Example: my 92 Miata with 142k is known for noisy lifters. 10w-30 oil alone makes all sorts of racket. Adding a thick oil additive quiets them right up except for the first 10-20 seconds after starting it up. So, why is it you guys are saying thinner oil is better when I have always experienced the opposite?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    but typically, hydraulic lifters get stuck by caked oil on the inside. Sometimes, a thin oil or solvent can loosen a stuck lifter and allow it to do it's adjusting and close the gap that is causing the noise.

    I don't know why you would experience the opposite. Maybe it has nothing to do with the lifter adjustment.
  • Whoops! Lets try this again. Greetings all. I am the proud new (to me)owner of a 99 626 v6 at. LOVE THIS CAR. 43k miles and other than a few minor niggles, nothing to complain about. Had to replace a few bulbs in the instrument cluster and replace leaking coolant reservoir but other than that.... I've truly enjoyed reading the posts about this wonderful car and I must thank everyone who ever posted about the 4cyl AT. Almost bought one from a friend last year. Whew! Found this one on a used lot and practically stole it. Mechanic has been over it and can't find any problems. I'll go ahead and change the trans. fluid, flush the coolant and change the oil just to be sure. One question I had is anyone doing any performance mods to theirs? I have found the K&N drop in filter for it but that's been about it. I know this is a sedan and I'm not a boy racer but I do like to make a few changes now and then. Thanks to all.
  • The problem you've described is the opposite of what I was talking about, lngtonge18. I was referring to the situation where hydraulic lifters are quite noisy at startup in cold weather. Not sure why you would experience it the other way around, unless it wasn't the lifters at all. If you have solid lifters (which I believe some Miatas have in the past), I doubt that different oil would even make much difference.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    All Miatas have hydraulic lifters.

    It's the 4cyl 626 that shed it's hydraulic lifters in '98 I believe.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I'm also talking about hydraulic lifter noise when first starting the engine in the morning. Believe me, I know what lifter noise is. The thinner the oil, the greater the racket the lifters have made in every car where its been a problem. All Miatas have hydraulic lifters and most pre-99 models are kown for this problem, as are the 3.0 liter MPV and some older 626 models. The worst problem was with a 91 Stanza with a 2.4 liter. Those hydraulic lifters were terrible! One lifter in particular would get loose and lose oil pressure if the oil level dropped 1/4 of a quart or if thin oil was used. The only way to quiet the bad lifter was by using 20W-50 along with an oil additive. The thick oil increased the pressure enough to force the lifter to adjust right. The lifter design was so bad on these engines that it prompted Nissan to change to a solid lifter design on the 93 Altima. Granted, thick oil is not a good idea for those in cold climates as it will make the engine impossible to start. I live in Florida, where it doesn't get any colder than 18 degrees, so I can use thicker oil without much trouble. But I do know that if I had used 5W-20 on these problem cars, the lifters would have made noise constantly, not just on start-up.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,094
    When I had my 626, I looked far and wide for mods to this car. Didn't have much luck at all. The only thing I ever ran across was lowering/stiffer springs and figured I would probably do that mod. But, the best enhancement for the car was something I didn't opt for when I bought it and that is the manual trans. Oh well.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • So, maybe the thicker oil pumps up the lifters more and reduces clearances. I'm not saying I don't believe you, I've just never tried it. I've always had good luck with thinner oil quieting noisy valvetrains, over the long term and short term. Like I told maltb, I've used Rislone quite a lot with the thinner oil, so that probably makes a difference as well.
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