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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Thanks for the information. For some reason I got it in my head that those filters were only available at the dealer. I wonder if the aftermarket ones are the same quality. The Ford filter looks normal but the GM filter looks like a finer material, kind of fuzzy like a HEPA filter. I guess next time I'll give the aftermarket a try.
  • 2001ody2001ody Posts: 17
    I have 94 GL wagon with 3L and AXOD tranny with 110,000 miles. Recently, the tranny started acting up. AFter driving 10 or 15 miles, when stopping for a light or traffic, the car slows to a stop normally, but after stopping, the tranny shudders into first gear. Until the shuddering stops and first is engaged, the vehicle will not move. After this started, I had the tranny power flushed but no improvement. Any suggestions?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Lately, majority of discussion groups in town hall are not generating helpful suggestions. You may not even get a reply. If you need good help visit this site, it is much much better than edmunds. Not fancy but good info.
  • shank6shank6 Posts: 64
    Just replaced the Affinity tires on my 99SE with slightly wider BF Goodrich T/A Touring Radials.
    215/60R 15 instead of the 205s. Handling and ride are much better.

    The deal at BJ's wasnt too bad either. $269.76 for all four. Free lifetime rotation, balancing, and warranty. The sale expires August 31st in case anyone is interested.
  • I replaced the Affinity's (garbage tires) with Yokohama P225/60R16's. Reduced road noise tremendously. Somewhere around $70 a piece at discount tire. Why didn't Ford think of this to reduce to LOUD road noise from the rear cabin?
  • is absolutely atrocious. This is due to the huge number of Taurus ex-rental cars being dumped on the market every year by Hertz. The resale value is further eroded by Ford's reliability reputation and a style that is now out of date. I recently bought a new car, a Subaru WRX, and was interested in selling my 1996 Taurus GL. The Ford dealer offered me $4200 (69K miles). If I sold it myself I could probably get all of $7500. DO NOT BUY FORD UNLESS YOU ARE PLANNING TO DRIVE IT UNTIL THE WHEELS FALL OFF! My daughter will be driving in two years so I will now be keeping it for her.
  • My wheels are ready to fall off! I need a third set of rotors right now. The second set warped again after being cut,with only 11,000 miles on them. I need an equity loan to keep this car running with only 49,000 miles!!
  • I have 1997 Taurus and have had the brakes redone.
    Front and rear. The Brakes now squeak at very low speed.
    This is annoying. I had the rotors turned when the bakes where done. Seems to be coming from the rear discs. Any suggestions as to how to fix this?
  • The key to keeping Ford rotors going without warping is to never, never allow the lug nuts to be tightened by an air gun. They should always be done by hand tools, preferably a torque wrench. I have put about 150,000 miles on an assortment of Tauri (92, 93, 98, 00) and a Sable (95) without ever having to replace a rotor because I have followed this simple rule. When you do get the third set installed, insist that the lug nuts be tightened only with a torque wrench. Good luck!
  • Does this mean I need new rotors or can they turn the ones I have?
    The noise is only coming from the rear discs.
    I have never had a car with 4 wheel discs is this a common problem? Other than this the car is great.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not a great mechanic, but brake squeak is usually NOT caused by rotors.

    The squeek/squeal usually comes from the pads. Ususally from the back of the pad vibrating aganist the mountings at slow speed.

    There is adhesive that cane be applied to usually or sometimes stop this. It will probably cost about in labor what a brake job (without turning the rotors) would cost because the pads have to be pulled, adhesive put on the backing, and replaced.

    On some brakes, there are also anti-rattle or anti-squeek clips on the pads. These might not have been reinstalled on your last brake job and are causing the noise.

    A thought - if it isn't much of a noise ignore it.

    I once put 'full metallic' drums brake linings on a 1972 Duster. The last 30 feet coming to a stop, these things just screamed. People on the sidewalk would look at the car, sometimes appearing to be about to cover their ears. I just drove it. The brakes were great!
  • i have this squeak...yes from the rear discs that has been bugging me greatly the last couple months.

    And also, after getting my tires rotated by the local station (who i used to trust because they said they tightened the lugs by hand and even wanted me to come back after a couple hundred miles and have them retightened) the wobble and vibration in my steering wheel of my 99 SHO is almost unbearable where as before it was almost hardly a trace. DO YOU THINK THESE PUNKS USED AN AIR GUN ON MY LUG NUTS?????

    Looks like I'll be needing a brake job to get rid of that squeak and wobbling front and only 27k miles. This sucks. My brother in law didnt b put brakes on his 97 SHO until 80k and only had his rotors turned once before that.

    %^$%^**%&))_&%^$%^ MECHANICS!!!!
  • My sympathies on your squeeks and impending brake job. I should also mention that I am a firm believer in NOT rotating tires. There are two reasons that I have for this.

    Number one is that there is less of a chance that someone will not tighten the lug nuts with hand tools if the tires are not taken off as often.

    Number two is that I feel that tires take a "set" on the corner that they are installed on (especially radials). If the tires were properly mounted and balanced when new, then they do best for their entire tread life on the same corner of the car. I used to rotate tires (tried both same-side rotation and cross-side rotation, but invariably this introduced some other problem - vibration, sidewall "wrinkles", etc.). So now, I just leave well enough alone. With front wheel drive, I end up replacing the front tires when they wear out while the rears still have plenty of tread on them. I buy the same tires again as replacements for the front and then replace all 4 tires when the fronts wear out again. More expensive? Yes, in terms of tire cost it is. But in terms of satisfaction with the ride and handling of my car as well as fewer expenses related to solving tire-related problems, perhaps not. I have never been dissatisfied because of some spurious vibration or mysterious "pulling", so the cost is worth it to me. I get about 2 years out of each set of front tires and 4 years out of the rears. At $100 apiece, that's $600 over 4 years, or about 27 cents a day for driving satisfaction. I'm worth it! :-)

    Two words of caution if you follow this approach:
    1 - I usually loosen and retighten all of the lug nuts once or twice a year so that they don't "freeze up" on the lugs.
    2 - When I do have the car serviced and I know the wheels will be coming off, I mark the tires with chalk so I know where they came from (RF, RR, LF, LR) in case they put them back in the wrong place (if they do, I make them fix it). Then, when I get the car home, I loosen all of the lug nuts and retighten them with a torque wrench just to be sure (oh, and wash off the chalk too!). A few extra minutes of my time, but it pays dividends in peace of mind.

    Once again: no warped rotors and no tire related vibrations, shimmies or pulls. What's that worth?
  • Hey Minnesota Art, that was the Excelsior Amoco that did my last rotation.

    Yes I am MN too.
  • I'm in Apple Valley. I'll remember to avoid the Excelsior Amoco! :)
  • well, overall I give them very good marks....but this tire rotation thing does irk me.
  • What if you don't own a torque wrench ?. I'm having new rotors installed, and my car should be ready Saturday morning. Any suggestions ?
  • You can always tighten them with a traditional lug wrench. Get them good and tight, but try not to be a he-man about it (just nice and tight with normal strength applied to the wrench). Remember to always tighten every other lug nut until you've done all 5. In other words, tighten #1 then #3 then #5 then #2 and then #4. Don't do 1,2,3,4,5 as that can make it uneven and cause a rotor problem too! Torque wrenchs (the kind with a pointer rather than a ratchet - can't remember their proper names) really aren't all that expensive. I bought mine at Sears many years ago and it has served me well. Good luck!
  • Why is everybody so worried about the taurus' resale value. In my opinion the idea of buying a brand new car with the intention of selling it in two years is ludicrous! Another point, cars that have "high resale value" are expensive to begin with. In the current issue of Car and Driver the new Jetta compact station wagon was listed at almost $30,000 dollars.!!!
    30,000 dollars for a wagon the size of the Focus wagon. A fully loaded Sable wagon, which is larger I might add, is less than $25,000!!! Any way you slice it the Taurus/sable twins are great cars at unbeatable prices. The only cars that can really compete are the base Passats, which are just as good. Lets stop worrying about resale values and care for and agppreciate the cars we have!!!!!!!! Long live king Taurus!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    I have to agree...if you are going to sell a car in a couple of years, lease the car!

    In our disposable society people are always looking to the "next" purchase. We kept our 89 Taurus wagon till we replaced it with my wife's new 2001 Taurus SEL.

    To my mind buying a car based on selling it in 2 years is a very silly notion.

  • The bset thing to do is get a 1 year old car to save the first year drop in value.

    The old saying "a car loses $1000 when you drive it off the lot" is outdated. Now, a car loses $2000 or more!!

    A Taurus at least doesn't lose as much $$ as a Lincoln or Caddy. Those lose $10-115K the 1st year.
  • I have a 99 SE. The other day I pulled my cell phone cord out of the lighter and "pop", out came the whole lighter. I can't seem to find a way to remove the whole ashtray assembly (not just the piece to empty the ashes) so I can get to the cable to reattach the lighter. Does anyone know how to do this?
  • oxx93oxx93 Posts: 67
    looked at both vehicles--taurus was easier to obtain due to the financing--both are very nice cars---very happy with the taurus-2001 ses-just turned 2000 miles-one nit-picking item--has anyone noticed that unless the steering wheel is straight the turn signals will not stay on?
  • iusecadiusecad Posts: 287
    that seems to be a Ford thing...
  • Hi oxx93,
    I noticed the same problem, but mine is like
    the signal switch won't stay if the steering
    wheel is at the opposite direction (eg. you
    want to keep the switch at 'LEFT' while you want
    to turn 'RIGHT'). It happens to my Taurus because
    I need to make a sharp left turn right after
    I move out my garage, which is a sharp right
    turn. Most of the time it's okay to me.
  • Just bought an '01 SE. It has been 18 years since I've had a Ford,(T-bird as a young single), and it feels great to be in a good car again. I've had 2 compacts, (Corolla - not too bad, Cavalier - yuck), a 4 cyl Dodge minivan, and a Dakota truck since then. After testing several Intrepids, I tested the SE upon advice from a friend, and was immediately won over. I traded my 2 year old Cavalier, getting 7K for it - reliable car but just could not subject myself or my now 6'1" son to it anymore. I got the SE for $14,400, and it has 12,000 miles. She is a beautiful dark blue with tan interior. Only lacks the CD changer, which I will get later. I must return it to the dealer tomorrow for better wheel balancing - I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel during braking from 50 mph, but not from less than that. I figure that must be it since they just put new Firestone Affinity's on it (the one's everyone is griping about - lucky me). But, I love this car's ride and handling. I feel very safe in it. The best thing is that my insurance actually goes down with this car by $16.00 per month!!
  • I agree the Taurus is initially a good value but if one's car requirements change five years later then selling the car makes sense. I should not have to keep my Taurus simply because I cannot afford to sell it! Could Ford make some effort to insure a reasonable resale value?
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Get used to the shaking steering wheel. I have the same thing and the dealer said the rotors are within spec so they balanced the front tires. It helped but didn't eliminate the problem. I'm hoping the rotors will go a little more out before the warranty does. This seems to be a chronic Taurus problem, why I can't understand. Let us know what happens with yours.

    P.S. I can give you info about the CD changer if you are interested. I added an aftermarket (Kenwood) unit to mine and it works great.
  • First, tighten each of the five lugs a different tightnesss.

    Then, make several hard stops from 60+ to 0

    Finally, spray some cold water on your very hot rotors.

    I bet you will have severely warped rotors in no time 8^)

  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    Do anything about resale value. That is set by the market. Also large numbers of Tauruses coming from the rental car market. Do you think Ford should stop Fleet Sales?

    The used car market is set by demand. Like other people have said on the board - either buy new and hold em for ten years or buy one year old and enjoy the savings.

    I bought a former rental car. Have had it for 3.5 years and have no complaints. Solid car at a good price. Is it perfect? Nope, but I can live with it very easily thank you.
This discussion has been closed.