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i have an old 1988 volvo 240 here in toronto. can you recommend a mechanic ( i believe that i have an oil leak).
thanks
I just bought a 98 S70 on Ebay for 3900 dollars. After splitting tires with the seller, I have about 4150 in the car now. It's a base S70. Not many options (heated seats, headlight wipers is about it). Some questions/dilemma.
The AC Evaporator (950 to 1350 repair) is said to be shot. I've also got the ABS/TRACs light issue. Otherwise the car seems fairly good! It's got 116k miles on it. It's very clean. I had it up to 90mph enroute to airport yesterday and it ran great! The car had good service records (dealer) up until about 95K miles.
Given what I paid and given the expectant life of this car, is it worth investing in the big repairs like the AC? Will the car go 150 to 200k? When the evaporator is repaired, will I end up with a rattley dash? Or does the car come apart and go back together fairly cleanly?
I think I'm going to send the ABS/TRACs unit to Victor Rocha for repair. SO that will keep some of the expense down.
Windshield - lots of marks from many highway miles apparently. Is there any way to polish a windshield?
Thanks!
Tom
'98 S70 with 116k
'79 244 with 197k
There is a smell - never smelled it before anywhere, kinda like fireworks (after you shoot them off) mixed in with a mineral spirits/metallic smell. The funny thing is, I can't see smoke and it goes away once you turn the car off. (Why I think something is in the engine...) My boyfriend thinks it's my transmission (changing the fluid was on the to do list - it was very unmaintenenced by the previous owners...), but then if so why would my car idle so rough? It feels like I'm on a boat... seiously! I haven't checked the oil to see if it's a blown head gasket (the temperature gauge points perfectly in the middle when the engine warms up and the engine never over heated in the first place) - I am at work and am heading to my dad's (a 10 minutes drive) as soon as I get off.
Also, today on our way to work, I let off the gas pedal to slow down and it felt like the engine was choking (like it needed spark plugs or something, except when you need spark plugs this usually happens when you push the gas and not let go, right?)
So, here is a list of what could have led to this: (or what I have gathered)
1. Tranny fluid/tranny itself
2. letting the gas tank get empty before I fill it (hey, I am in college... the guy at work said it could be dirty/bad fuel injectors)
3. bad timing belt? timing off (dealer exchanged at 75k, the car is 116k now, could it have gotten messed up with my #6 experience?)
4. throttle body hasn't been cleaned (on the to do list)
5. air pump is out (still haven't replaced that one 'cause I thought it could wait - maybe it's just fried itself completely, but wouldn't that smell after the engine was off and it wouldn't cause the engine to idle rough.... right?)
6. a small incident that I think may have led to this: (no woman jokes please) on our trip back from Atlanta, I stopped at a gas station, but on the off ramp to get there, I took a wrong turn and decided since no one was there I would back up and go the other way - well, as soon as I back up, there is this giant semi coming and I try to stop the car, throw it in drive (like in the good 'ol manual days, without thinking) and the car chokes out and dies (kinda like letting the clutch go while in gear) I restart the car and it is running rough, but then is fine. No problems until Thurs. ...did I throw off the timing? Why does it smell? Did I destory my car? :sick:
Someone please help! I'm afraid to drive anywhere!! Any comments/suggestions will be rewarded with umpteen thank yous and smiles!!!!
How many miles are on the car?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you want AC, I would certainly have it fixed.
Does that service history include a timing belt change? I hope so.
wow. $4K for a base model with 116K miles and broken AC and ABS/TRACS, huh? Man, makes me wonder what I could get for my 110K mile T5 with everything in perfect working order. We've been pondering selling it lately.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Ummmm.... hmmmm.... I'm really not sure of a price. My wild guess is somewhere around $300-$400. Chances are you can't do yourself. I would go to an exhaust shop like meineke.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
$752 Throttle body
$ 300 Labor
$ 10 Gasket and seal
Total (Include tax) $1265 CAD
I also contacted VOLVO Canada to see if they are helping me for the cost, they told me there is a class action against this issue in US. But the out come in unknown so far, He said if VOLVO decided to Recall these car then they will reimburse everybody how did the repair. !
Anyway, Painful repair and Now I am thinking that my second car won’t be European, I will switch back to Japanese,
I am still waiting for you to give me your Volvo mechanic Address / Phone #
Thanks
Your T5 prob $7-9K private party.
T5 - From what I've seen, the 7-9 price is probably right. If this was wasn't so clean and obviously maintained, the AC would have turned me off. But for 5k total (with ac fixed), I think I'm still "ok" but not exactly a steal. BUT - it runs great and it's a safe ride for my 17 year old daughter! :-)
Thanks for all the feedback!
Tom
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
around 70K miles is a good interval.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. I talked to a parts guy at the Volvo dealership (both of them in my area are pretty nice - Nashville and Franklin, the one I was at) and when I described what was happening to my car (the choking, uneven boat engine sound of the engine, the shimmying, and the gas mileage, and the smell) he said that his wife's volvo's ECT fuel sensor (something that sounded like this) had gone out and that was kinda what her car was doing until they replaced it... he said that a catalytic converter is sort of unlikely, even with the mileage (they do go out, but it's not common.) :confuse:
2. When we were changing out the spark plugs, my dad said the old ones looked like the engine was getting too much fuel. (That ECT part is only about $60 - a far cry from a catalytic converter...)
3. Weird because now there is smoke coming out of the exhaust... more of a sooty, but grayish black and thin smoke, same smell...
3. BUT First we're going to change out the air pump and the SAS valve (what the check engine code said was wrong), which could also be causing this?
4. The parts guy said to clean the throttle body as well - I was going to anyway, but quick question: what does this part do? Just curious and I don't want to wait 'til my dad gets off of work to find out.
That's about where I stand. If anyone knows where I can find a really good air pump for a really good price, please let me know. Also, I've heard rumors that the S70 and 850 air pumps are the same pump (part #, too) but are priced differently depending on the model of volvo that you ask about. Any info/advice? I'd like to go ahead and get these parts so this can be fixed by the weekend, so I can see if it works - kinda scared to drive the car around like this but I don't have another ride! Arg. I just don't want to screw anything else up by not getting to the root fast enough. :sick:
Oh, and I finally scheduled a transmission fluid change at a local Mr. Transmission - (did you know that they don't do flushes because they think it tears stuff up? How cool - they do it the old-fashioned way... heard good things about them, too... I hope they will do a good job! -comments on experiences will be greatly appreciated!!)
Thanks everyone for dealing with my enourmous posts!
So... how do they plan to change the tranny fluid? Just drain and replace? Because that doesn't get all the old fluid out, which is why flushes are normally done on these. I'm not sure if its the same "flush" as most cars. Its a machine that is filled with new fluid that, when connected to the tranny cooler line, forces new fluid in place of the old, pushing the old back out into the machine. There was a writeup about it in the most recent IPD newsletter, I believe.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Good luck
I went to Autozone to get a diagnostic - 2 more codes showed up! (I forgot & left 'em at home, but I'll post them tonight!)
It's a bad O2 sensor. (The one infront of the converter.) I think the air pump might have helped it go bad when we went to Atlanta. The air pump and valve should be here any day now and I was going to get the sensor from Autozone. (any comments/ suggestions??) They have two types - a universal ($100) and one 'made for this car' ($170) - both are Bosch brand. Any suggestions? Or should I order it from fcp (similar prices)?
I'm just happy, 'cause now I know what it is now. I just hope everything else is good. I have been trying to avoid driving too much... I'm fixing everything as soon as that air pump comes in!!!!!!!! (hopefully today!)
Thanks everyone for your input! I'll post those codes here asap. ^_-
k.
0410 "Secondary air injection system fault"
This one is the air pump...
0172 "Fuel trim bank one condition"
Vacuum leak/O2 sensor
0130 "Cicuit condition" - heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1
So - maybe that'll help someone out.
Air pump didn't come today but that means it will definately be here tomorrow!
I nosed around in here trying to find some info., to no avail. Hope someone can tell me what it means when my "off" and the recirculation buttons blink orange when I first start my 1999 S70. I tried calling the dealership and got a recording. After awhile, the lights stop blinking and everything seems fine. The car doesn't do anything funny - no odd sounds or anything like that. Any thoughts? I should note that the car hasn't been driven for two weeks, as I've been out of town.
However, personally, i'd ignore it unless it continues to happen. I had it happen on mine once .... then never again. That was a couple of years ago.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The process you are talking about only works for older Volvo's.
THANK YOU,
CRAIG PINDER.
So my check engine light comes on about a month ago and I notice that I am getting very poor gas mileage. I take it in and I'm told I need a new Oxygen sensor. I do this, and two days later the check engine light is back on and no change in mpg. I am then told that it was actually the Mass Airflow that was out - which caused the Oxygen Sensor to fail. $800 later I think I am fixed - but no. Nothing is changed. They shop (a high end euro-specialty place) is stumped and after doing some research they tell me that there is an update kit from volvo to replace all the wiring between these devices that will cost $800. According to them this is something that happens on some high mileage '98 and '99 S70s. Has anyone heard this? Is it something else? Please help!
I just hit around 115k. For the past 5K miles or so, the CEL has been coming on once a week. But the code indicates a loose gas cap each time (i'm going to buy a new one and see if that stops the too-often CEL). I've also had a drop in mileage, as well. But its not all that bad. We went from about 25 mpg down to 23 ... lately we've been back up to 24. I figure its just a part of driving a car over 100k miles.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
i love IPD, but not for OEM parts. Upgrades are more their strong point (although still expensive).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Does anyone have a suggestion as to who I should speak to other than the Service Manager at this dealership? Someone who won't keep bouncing this problem back at me.
The vehicle is 6 years old at this point.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thx for responding gbrozen.