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Mitsubishi Galant



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    You could call them and ask, they'd probably know better than anyone. Usually, aftermarket parts aren't covered for more more than a year.
  • Thanks to everybody who responded to the warranty question. I think I did not make some things clear in the first place: the new headlight was an original factory item; the misalignment was not a result of incorrect installation, but was caused by a bad reflector inside the assembly, and could not be fixed by the normal alignment of the lens (to be more specific, while the low beam was OK, the high beam aimed down, and there is no separate alignment for them, only for the entire assembly). So, what I needed was a fix to an internal lens problem, not the mounting or alignment. That problem came with the new Mitsu lens, which had a warranty, and I did honestly expect the dealer to fix or replace it. If the rules do not let them, fine.

    My worry is, as I said, the potential problem in a hypothetical situation when one authorized dealer makes a warranty repair, and the other refuses to revisit it if the part or labor fail (that's what the cust. service told me).
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The customer service rep was correct partially. If a part fails due to improper installation or sloppy work, it is the responsibility of the dealer that messed it up to fix the problem. This makes sense because how do they know you weren't responsible for replacing the part improperly and breaking it? However, if the part fails due to a manufacturer defect, any dealer is required to honor the warranty and replace the faulty part. So, the warranty can be denied by one dealer for bad labor at another dealer, but they cannot deny warranty work for a bad part that was replaced under warranty by another dealer. If warranty work is denied due to the former, you have to get in touch with the manufacturer and get reimbursed for the repair.

    Here's an example: Someone in the Hyundai Elantra forum went to a dealer while on vacation to get his oil changed. The mechanic notified him that the last person who changed his oil (the dealer in his hometown) stripped the oil pan threads and the pan would need to be replaced in order to put the drain plug back in. The dealer refused to warranty the oil pan since they didn't damage it and charged him $400. He took the situation up with Hyundai, who agreed it was covered under warranty and reimbursed him for the repair cost.
  • lngtonge18, thanks for in-depth reply. In other words, authorized dealers are not part of the company, and should be treated as contractors, not representatives, right? Somehow the idea of a blanket coverage on parts and labor seems logical, still.

    The above Hyundai example is a good test: did the company take responsibility for the bad labor (stripping the thread), or for a bad part (oil pan, which was originally OK) as a good gesture? It is a question of principle, because it shows to where the company vs. dealer responsibility extends. I wonder if different manufacturers have different arrangements with their dealers in this regard.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I believe Hyundai reimbursed him based on bad labor on the part of the dealer. Since he took the car to an authorized dealer to have an oil change done, Hyundai was required to warranty the work of its "factory" technicians since the car was under factory warranty. Now, had the car been out of warranty, the dealer would have been responsible and probably would have fixed it if it was proven to be their fault. Conversely, had a quick oil lube place done the damage while under factory warranty, than Hyundai probably would have replaced it as a good will gesture.

    You are correct in saying that the dealer is not part of the company. They are separate entities with contracts to sell specific models.
  • Does anyone know the 1-800# you call for Roadside Assistance in case you get a flat tire or something of that nature?
    I've been looking thru the Owners Manual and it's not there.

  • The # is 1800-800-6868
  • Hello, all. I own a 2000 Galant ES (4cyl). So far, the car has been very reliable, and I've put over 30000 miles on it since I bought it. One thing I have noticed is the lack of aftermarket parts for this car. The only things I have found for the current Galant are springs (which are actually for the V6 model). Has ANYONE had better luck than this? I am interested in larger brake rotors, suspension mods, clear corner lenses, etc. Is it possible to order JDM parts from a distributor here in the U.S.?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238

    more mods than you can imagine
  • I am replacing my galant factory speakers in the rear 6x9 size
    wondering how to remove top part to get to speaker in the back seat area
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Assuming it's a '99-'02, you take the seat cushion out (has plastic pulls on the front), then you unbolt the back cushion. Then you can unbolt the rear dash. It's not overly fun, but not that difficult either.
  • Hey sebring95

    It's a 99 galant
    Can you elaborate a little more and about how long would this take can I do alone or will i need help. I also want to replace front speakers.
    Where is the best place in Manhattan to get them
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Sorry, was a little short on time before. Plus I don't remember exactly how it went! But here goes: There are two tabs on the bottom seat cushion down behind where your ankles would be if you were sitting in the seat. Pop those tabs and the bottom seat cushion just pulls out. This will reveal a few bolts that hold the back seat-cushion in place. Once those are out, I believe you just push up on the seat back and it comes loose. That leaves you with the back dash cover, which I believe has some plastic tabs, a couple screws, and the window brake light. Once you get all that apart, the rear parcel shelf should come out revealing the speakers. I had no clue how to get to them, but I would guess it only took about 15 minutes to get everything pulled out and to the point you could start removing speakers. I've done this stuff before though, but never on a Galant. Shouldn't need any help, the seat cushions weigh nothing. No idea on the fronts, but my guess is there will be tabs on the outside edges of the doors and some screws in the armrests/door handle area. It's very easy to screw up the doors as most have some very difficult to reach clips etc. Again, I've never done a Galant but have done my fair share of other vehicles (and have broken plenty of clips!).

    I'm not from NY, but I've dealt with some shops located in that area. I've bought from Smile Photo/Video and they've always treated me right. If I remember correctly, they are right off broadway, around 30th. Only been to their shop once, but have bought from them through the mail a few times. Lots of places in your area to shop around!
  • My 99 Galant ES V6 goes off lease in November and I was hoping to buy the vehicle as I have been very satisfied with it.

    Everything I have read recently indicates that because of the weakness in the used car market leasing companies are taking huge hits on off lease vehicles with the average loss in the area of $2700. For that reason it has been suggested that leasing companies are highly motivated to sell vehicles to the leasees at below residual prices so that they can avoid the process of refurbishment and resale as well as a financial hit. Therefore, I was shocked when I approached Mitsubishi Leasing the other day and was told flat out that if I want to buy the car they are 100% non-negotiable off the residual price. Since the Customer Service rep I spoke to didn't even know what I was talking about and had to speak to a supervisor I thought I would double check this. I spoke to the Finance Manager at the dealer where I leased and he confirmed this. He even commented that he has leased 3 Mitsubishi vehicles in a row and tried to get them to sell to him below the residual and they refused.

    Obviously the company has the right to insist on the residual (it's in the contract afterall) but it's hard for me to believe that Mitsubishi is doing that much better on resale than virtually every other manufacturer that they can afford to be so hard nosed. Afterall, these aren't Lexus'.

    It's left me with a bit of a bad taste and now I have to decide whether I still want a buyout (at $10,800) or I start looking for another car which I really don't want to do. I just thought I'd inform this board of Mitsubishi's policy in this regard should anyone else be contemplating the same thing.
  • I just checked resale values on my 99 ES V6 on Edmunds and they don't encourage me to go through with a buy of my car off lease. Residual is around $10,800 which is about what dealer retail is. Wholesale (trade in) is only about $8300 and private sale around $9600. It seems to me with my wanting to sell the vehicle 12-24 months after I buy it I would probably take a pretty good hit trading in or selling privately.

    This plus potential repair costs is probably enough to make me move on to a new vehicle.

    Still doesn't make sense to me that the company would rather take this vehicle back, refurbish and try and resell in a weak used car market when they could never have to see the car if they were willing to knock a grand or so off the residual buyout.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    it's possible they made their money in other ways on the lease sales and therefore the residual isn't an accurate display of their true financial position. High money factors, reduced incentives on the front-end, arrangements with insurance companies, etc. etc. They aren't going to spend much money on turning the car around. Mostly likely it will go straight to in auction as-is. Some transportation charges or possibly sell it for wholesale to the dealer where you turn it in.
  • I'm no expert on leasing company finances but I have read numerous articles about how badly they are being hit in this used car market. It's hard to imagine Mitsubishi is immune to this.

    To make matters even more bizzare I called Mitsubishi about the possibility of extending the lease another year (certainly an opportunity for Mitsubishi to make some more money off this vehicle) and was told "Mitsubishi does not extend leases". This is contrary to the general market as I know for a fact that a friend just recently extended on a Camry and I know others who have extended on Accords. I'm scratching my head. It seems Mitsubishi will do just about whatever it takes to discourage me from remaining a customer. I've got 5 weeks to look for a new vehicle so I don't feel terribly rushed. Nevertheless, I'm still disappointed that I'm basically forced to dispose of a car I would really like to keep.
  • Not trying to defend them or anything, but its the contract, and they probably see deviating from it as more of a liability than any increase in term or decrease in residual would afford them. In other words, they don't want to bother with it. Chances are, such situations come up so seldom that it just isn't worth their while.
  • I'm not sure how seldom these situations come up. Afterall, many leasing companies charge a disposition fee to the leasee if you don't buy the car at lease end. Admittedly Mitsubishi does not but given the economy I would think many people who are satisfied with their lease car wouldn't mind buying it used to keep expenses down.
  • Well Mitsubishi did not disappoint me. First they refused to budge on a buy of my Galant even as used car prices continue their free fall. Then they refused to consider an extension of my lease despite my efforts to convey to them how much I liked the car. Well that wasn't enough. Today was my lease inspection. Not only does my car have $500 worth of brand new tires (two months old) but I added after market alloy wheels to a car that was sold to me with nothing but cheesey wheel covers. Forget about the fact that the car is still stunning to look at with gliistening paint. The inspection revealed what the inspector described as "excess wear and tear". What pray tell is that? Well Mitsubishi only allows for 3 miniscule door dings per panel and horror of horrors I had five. Forget about the fact that they are practically invisible and you need a microscope to see them. That will be $125 please. What a joke. This is just another way to ripoff the customer. I can assure you that I will not be paying this $125. Not when I've put a thousand dollars worth of vehicle enhancements into this car that Mitsubishi gets the advantage of.

    It seems that corporate America is always looking for a way to squeeze a few more dollars out of the poor consumer. My credit card company tells me that If I'm a day late on a payment I must pay a $29 penalty. I figure 20% of people are a day or two late. A few million people at $29 and your friendly credit card company has pocketed an extre hundred million or so. Unreal.
  • Maybe you should get some cheapo Pep Boys or Walmart tires with some hubcaps for your car and keep the rims. As for the dings, you can have them removed on your own for $40 a piece. have two removed and it will only cost you $80.

    As for the credit cards .... that's why you have a choice of what companies to use. And with online payment you shouldn't be late anyways.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The experience above is exactly why I refuse to lease even though I love to get a new car every 2-3 years.
  • fm2279fm2279 Posts: 3
    Okay, I need some serious help here. I'm on the NOPI website looking to buy the Ground Control coil-overs, but, which one to buy? One description says "for Koni shocks on rear" while the description for the other identical coil-overs says "for stock/Sachs/Boge shocks."

    Will the first set of coil-overs only allow Konis on the rear, or can I use Konis all around? I assume the second description means I can use either stock, Sachs, or Boge shocks all around.

    I called the customer service number and the guy told me I could use the coil-overs (which use Eibach springs) with stock shocks all around and have no problem. This didn't sit too well with me because I've seen aftermarket performance springs DESTROY factory shocks!

    Has anyone tried the Ground Control kit, and if so, what shocks are you using? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
  • I have 96 galant, have 71K just got problem with engine light came on. Checked with Auto zone it showed Idle Position sensor malfunction. We replaced throttle position sensor, the problem still on did not go away. The check engine light stays on. Only problem is when A/C is turned on the rpm goes too low 200/250. Anybody have similar problem, Please post.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    The throttle position sensor is different from the idle position sensor. Probably have to get that one from the dealer. It's a "speed-up" motor to keep the idle up when things like the AC come on.
  • wgrwgr Posts: 127
    I just read ( that the 04 model is coming out earlier than planned - Spring of 03. Does anyone know if this is a major re-design and where there might be pictures ?
  • wgrwgr Posts: 127
    Does Mitsubishi have a web site ?
  • I've just bought used Mitsubishi Galant ES V6 2000 priced $10K. When i changed my headlights bulbs with Piaa Super Plasma GT bulbs, i unplugged the battery... then my car's audio systems haven't worked... it asked for security code...
    'cause it's used car, so i don't have security code card that was sent to previous owner. I contacted to Mitsubishi dealer and they said they would charge me $78...
    Is anyone have that code, pls send it to me...

  • Did you pull out the ashtray and look in the glove box to see if the previous owner put the sticker in the car? If you purchased it from a dealer see if they can get it for you or if you went private party contact them and see if they have it.
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