I too have been experiencing the same symptoms. The car has 145k miles on it and it's a '95 (L) in great condition. Should I replace the head gaskets or cut my losses and get rid of it?
Had mine repaired twice, 1st lasted 4 months, 3nd about 6 months, new radiater, cap, themostate, timing belt....car never ran the same, swapped engines and it's ok now, Spent to much on that car
My quote from a reliable, honest mechanic is $2600. For that they will replace both head gaskets, I believe, and R&R both heads. Is this the way to go? :
What makes these cars blow head gaskets? I have a properly maintained car with oil changed at every 5k miles and coolant every two years. Never a overheating problem and I bled the air out each time. What gives? Low mileage for a 13 y/o car but this is the first major problem. :sick:
Unfortunately Westofleft, that might be the way to go. Its mainly the labor that makes it cost so much. I had it done twice on my 1993 Legend sedan. The first time was cheaper than the second because labor prices went up from $60 per hour to like $72 per hour for labor. They break the engine down and you'll be surprise how many pieces there are. I believe when or if you get it done to replace all coolant systems if you can. (i.e. new radiator, water pump, hoses, timing belt, fluids, thermostat) Because if you think about it, one part of the cooling system has been contaminated which also circulates to other parts throughout the entire cooling system. So it is bound to be contaminated in some way or form. Yes its costly but so is restoring a 57 chevy. We are talking about a car that is about to be 18 years old!(1991 models) Definitely shop around! I think u can find a better deal.
Well, after much soul searching and debate with the boss (wife) I decided to go ahead and repair the car. She and I both really like it, it's still a solid vehicle and I just can't see disposing of it with such low mileage. It's in great shape, still looks good. I am going to have it smogged by the shop doing the repair just to make sure everything came out ok tho. That's the problem I ran into with my daughter's '89 Camry. Wish me luck
I bought a legend 91 recently. It runs smoothly and the car condition is good. I do change the oil, transmission fluid, brake pad and disk when I purchased it. However, it stopped before a red lamp today and then can not start again. The car fully lost its electricity. My friend came and use his battery charged my one. Then we can start it and drive it back home. It looks like the alternator's problem because the battery lamp is red for a few minutes before we get stacked at a red lamp. Anyone has idea of the repairing cost? Could it be any other problem? many thanks in advance.
I would look at both the battery and alternator in that order. OTC car parts places like Pep Boys or Kragen can test both. Start with the battery. It may not be producing the cranking amps it needs and it's the cheaper of the two fixes.
I'm thinking about purchasing a 1995 Acura Legend Gs with 165,000 miles for $4000. What problems should I look for before buying? Is $4000 too much to pay for it?
I am looking at possibly buying a used 1993 or 1995 Legend and was wondering what repair costs in general are like. Are they considered high, average, or low in general?
I have heard that Acuras in general are fairly expensive to repair.
Hi, I have not had to pay any excessive repair bills on my 1992 Legend, just normal maintenance bills, however I only have approx. 50,000 total miles since new. It is garaged all the time. Only driven on nice days. It is a real driver. I am always amazed how far advanced in design and performance the 1992 Acura was compared to the US built cars.
The Legend is so well set up that (in my case at least) I get about 10% better mileage with premium, while it costs about 6% more than regular. And, of course, since the price differential between regular and premium remains pretty rigid at ~$0.20/gal., the more expensive gas gets, the smaller the percentage in price difference.
Plus, it's a WHOLE LOT more fun to drive on premium, as the engine is high-compression and the computer has to compensate for regular.
Good luck, and have fun. Caution to the winds!
If it doesn't work out for you as it does for me, change. But you're better off with premium.
With my 92 Legend I use both. but, if I want maximum preformance and power it runs best on Premium fuel. For the difference in cost, the car will just run much better I find. But, I do not my car as an every day driver, only nice sunny days.
I have a 1990 Legend also that had the ABS warning light come on only after I would break a while. I found that replacing the relay in the under the hood fuse box on the driver side did the trick. Later the motor on the ABS motor became noisy and I also replaced it. GOOD LUCK hawks 1.
I have a 1990 Legend LS. I parked the car on my neighborhood street last night. When I tried to start the the car this morning,I turned the key and the dash board lit up like always , but the only sounds are a click under the passenger side dash and the radiator fan under the hood.The starter does not engauge. The battery checked fully charged 12 volts a bit more in fact. HELP !! any ideas?
I would check your connections - if the battery is fully charged but the starter motor not getting any juice - there has to be a disconnect there somewhere. I would also check the ingition switch in the steering column - they have a history or failing on a car that old. Love the 1990 Legend - had one in our family from 2000-2008, 122,000 - 180,000 miles - she never let us down.
My mechanic just came up and took a look at the same problem. It's a speed sensor they run 30-40 $. It's up on the transmission which is pretty in there on the legends.
His buddy that was with him seemed to think my oil problem was internal due to seeing blue smoke but when I changed oil the guy told me I just had a gasket valve cover on the top that was leaking. Any ideas from anyone on that? No other engine symptoms than going through a lot of it.
i just recently bought a 1990 acura legend to but mine came with a manual so im going to give u sum usuful tips for the raido to preset a station u like, all u do is tune into that staiton and hold one of the buttons labled 1-9 until u hear a beap and it should turn green once u set all the staitons. u know that button that says radio on it right by ur sterring wheel hit that and it cycles through ur station now u know all those little buttons on the bottom labbled htz or sumthing like that u should see 4 buttons to the right of it and one should say netural the first three let u memorize the way u want the frecuncys and thats pretty much it on the raido
Hi, i am looking to buy an 1993 Acura Legend. The one i am looking at has a V6, 3.2L engine, leather seats, CD player, Acura Alarm and a little bit of rust around back wheel wells. It has 245 000 kilometers on it and the guy is selling it for $1400. I would like a second opinion on it, if anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I just purchased a 1990 Acura Legend.">It has 106,000 and is almost perfect inside and out. It had 2 owners, the second of which only held onto it for 5 months. The timing belt has never been changed, it idles a little rough and the AC Expansion Valve needs to be replaced. I discovered the Expansion Valve when I switched over to 134a from R-12. I first thought the compressor wasn't working but i was told the compressor shuts off if the expansion valve is clogged. Has anyone changed it before? If so, what exactly is involved. Oh and does anyone know where I can get the hardware to fix the inside driver door compartment? Thank you for your time.
my 92 acura legend, When I start it, it lopes between 1k-3k rpm as if it has a big block chevy cam in it lol. drive or rev it gos away, but on idol it is very annoying. Been checking for vac leaks, but to avail. Any sugestions? Thank you for your time in this matter.
I have a 94 L sedan automatic; the cash for clunkers (not that I think it is a clunker at all) lists two, one "PRE-CAT" that qualifies and the other that doesn't. How can one tell if their car is "PRE-CAT". I've called my mechanic and an acura dealer, and no one seems to know the answer. Anyone out there that knows?
I have a 93 Legend and I have the same question...I have been to two dealers and called Acura, they do not know what I am talking about: The pre-cat car is listed as 18 mpg and the other is listed at 19mpg, I even went online to break down the VIN and it does not tell me anything... So maybe the GOV. can't tell either??????
I have a 90 Acura Legend that has trouble starting when it is hot outside. Also, I recently had a transmission put in it and since then the coolant has been complete leaking when it is hot outside. The problem of it starting has been a problem since before the transmission was put in. Sometimes when the car wont start and I notice the coolant is gone I fill the resivor up and it starts right away. In any case when the car wont start its hot (above 78) and the engine just turns over, nothing catches.
I have a '88 Legend L, which has a problem with the climate control panel (non-automatic heater control switch assembly, p/n #79600-SD4-A02 - I think this is the correct p/n). The left knob, which controls the fan speed, is very difficult to turn on and off. It is basically stuck in the same spot meaning I can't increase or decrease the fan speed.
I've looked on-line on replacing the entire unit. New ones run over $500. However, I found one on e-bay for < $100. Has anybody had issues with this part and is it difficult to replace. If I replaced the entire unit, does this solve my problem on turning the on / off knob or is their another unit behind this one? Any information would be appreciated. The car is extremely low miles for a 21 year old car (< 90K) and I would love to keep it.
We have a very clean-bodied 1987 Acura legend sedan that has various mechanical problems. How can we best fix it up, or get it to someone with the know-how to get it fixed up? It has an alternator problem, transmission whining, and some sort of missing going on. Suggestions?
If you follow the manual, then yes. I have to say if you put 87, the car will run considerably rougher, that is, you will notice a difference in smoothness provided that your Legend is in good condition. So I'd follow the manual, and put the 93. But if you're struggling then 89 may be ok, but never 87!!!
did u ever find out what the problems were when your acura wouldnt start, i am having the same problem, could u please tell me if u know , how i can fix the problem.
I have the flashing D4 along with erratic speedometer. Car runs fantastic otherwise. I am 300 miles from closest Acura dealer. I am a DIY kind of guy. What are the details on the speed sensor in the transmission? If it only cost $250 that would indicate the tran did not need removing so it sounds pretty minor.
12 volts reading in your tester does not your battery is fully charges. The best way to check your battery without a tester is to turn on your head light on..a bright light means your battery might be good and then start your engine. If the head light dims then you battery is in low charge. Clicking sound means your car is ok, it just yur battery is discharges. . If your battery come out good or strong, then you need to replace your starter. Simple as that.
12 volts reading in your tester does not mean your battery is fully charges. The best way to check your battery without a tester is to turn on your head light on..a bright light means your battery might be good and then start your engine. If the head light dims then you battery is in low charge. Clicking sound means your car is ok, it just yur battery is discharges. . If your battery come out good or strong, then you need to replace your starter. Simple as that.
You have a low coolant/green liquid/anti freeze level..your idle air control motor is not warming up enough to re act to your current engine temperature. Possible cause, fluid hoses to the (AIC) air idle control is leaking. Make sure the engine is cold when opening radiator cap. If there is not leak then it is time to replace the (AIC) check all those small hoses for anti freeze and air vacuum.
pre cat means... all cars manufactured when catalytic converters is not required. This means cars made from 1940 to part of 1970 and 80. simple isn't it. hahaha.
Your car is running hot.. hot engine equals low compression. Gasoline only burns when the mixture with air is right,. Hot engine is too lean to fire. You said putting the coolant fires the engine, right, because to made the engine cooler. Simple, yeah, of course, now, look where the leak is coming from then fix it or call a guy who can. The transmission guy did nothing in your coolant system..only your car is too old and has those hard hoses that moving around it causes it to crack then you have the leak. I know that is the easiest excuse but transmission system had b nothig to do with your cooling system. Also, I recommed that you replace your thermostatic valve in your cooling system. It is located inside the big hose towards your cylinder head coming from the top of the radiator. Make sure your engine is cold when opening the radfiator cap and replacing hoses.
Your car is running hot.. hot engine equals low compression. Gasoline only burns when the mixture with air is right,. Hot engine is too lean to fire. You said putting the coolant fires the engine, right, because to made the engine cooler. Simple, yeah, of course, now, look where the leak is coming from then fix it or call a guy who can. The transmission guy did nothing in your coolant system..only your car is too old and has those hard hoses that moving around it causes it to crack then you have the leak. I know that is the easiest excuse but transmission system had b nothig to do with your cooling system. Also, I recommend that you replace your thermostatic valve in your cooling system. It is located inside the big hose towards your cylinder head coming from the top of the radiator. Make sure your engine is cold when opening the radfiator cap and replacing hoses.
You know, and non responsive speed motor control means only one thing . or I should say two things. One the shunt resistor for the blower motor is not doing the job or the selector knob ( actually a variable resistor some call it reostat) is burned. The restriction to movement is evident enough that it is burned. Check your circuit diagram and locations of the things mentioned and replaced it. I hope your good with electric stuff.
Best is to sell it and have the other guy solve the problem. Look here, 1987 to 2009 is actually 22 years ago....I think you see the picture. However, Legends are made to last so I suggest first get and tune up (change ignition rotor, Cap, plugs and wires) this should solve the missing. Have an oil change and top up the fluids. Transmission whining means only one thing either is worn out (gears) or low in transmission fluid. The alternator is a 90 amps rated made by beck and arney and it is around 116 USD at pep -bees plus the cost of the core (old alternator) they usually add 36 usd for it. Turning over the core to them will refund you the 36 USD. Replace all the engine belts..then check all the wheel brakes pads. I suggest you do all these in sked but do the engine first and foremost. You're project legend will cost you approximately 2 grand or more but if you know some guy who can help, yes, bring it over. Inde. shop might help. Lastly, don't rush things. I assure you, won't regret it. I got one and it still running strong at 354 thous miles. Power and response is awesome hopefully the new cars the make today can match it. Good luck.
I want to give you some history on speedometer .. they used to be taken direct from the the transmission gears connected to a flexible cable which is attached behind the speedometer gage at the dash board. Yeah, the one in front of you when you are driving. Now, one electronic engineer replaced that with a small motor (actually an electric generator producing milli amps/volts ) connected to a flexible cable or direct gearing into the transmission (located outside the tranny) which in turn wired to the logic board in dash which is read by the transducer and translated into a digital (signal) numbers or dial gage display. Speed sensor can be order at rock auto. com ..cheap too. Replacement and installation is very straight forward but you should know where it is located. Check your maintenance book or maybe google can help.
Although you did not particularly mentioned what actually going on about the failure. I will give you some pointers to help you. An engine will only start if the ignition, fuel, and starting system are working good. Assuming you engine turns over when you turn the key, a failed start means there is nt Gasoline into the cylinders. Either the fuel injectors are not working or the fuel pump is dead. For fuel injected engine, you need a pressure to push that gasoline from the injectors into the intake port ..so no pump..no pressure no start. Now, assuming the pump is working and gasoline is present into the cylinders. the one at fault is the ignition system. You need the spark to burn the compressed air and fuel in the cylinders. To test for spartk, take out one spark plug wire and insert a philips screw driver into the end and lay it down on top of the engine close to a metal surface but not touching the engine. Have somebody turn the key to start and watch if spark come out of the screw drive body. (do not touch while engine is turning for it will shock you ) Absence of spark means the ignition module is shot assuming the pick up coil and reluctor inside the distributor is in good condition. (this seldom gets bad ) If spark is present, then check the pump. To test it, get someone open the gas tank and stick his ear close to the opening and listen for a buzsing sound when the car is being started. The buzz means the pump is working but the injectors are not .. system presure is too low. No buzz, the pump is dead. You need a tech to work on fuel system due to risk of fire and hazard to you health. The ignition module is is located close to the ignition coil left side of the engine bay, on top of the right fender near the fuse and relay box. It has two (2) ten millimeter bolts and a wire socket coming out of it. It aprox inch and half square and 5/16 or 3/8 inch thick. Hope this helps.
I REMOVED THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AFTER I REPLACED IT SINCE THEN MY GAS GAUGE DON'T MOVE TO FULL OR EMPTY. DOESN'T INDICATE HOW MUCH FUEL I HAVE. HOW DOES ONE TROUBLESHOOT OR DIAGNOSE THIS PROBLEM? THANKS CARSPACE
I purchased a 1995 Acura Integra for $800.00. It had been in a wreck and got T-boned on the driver side. The only visible damage is the front and rear doors are damaged. Moreso the front that the rear. The damage was basically the whole driver side front door up to the beginning of the rear door. I'm almost sure the door frame is broken. But the problem I'm faced with is if I purchase the front door ($100-used) and find a used rear door and door frame, what should I be concerned with when finding someone to do the body work? What would be considered a reasonable amount to pay to have this repaired. My daughter need the car to go to school and take my grandson to daycare. Money is limited. Anyone with any suggestions or ideas is greatly appreciated.
I know some guys over at acura-legend.org have done the 3.2 to 3.5L swap, but I don't really see a benefit of that. Hell, my 1994 Legend has more horsepower than a 2004 RL! Yeah, the RL has like 20lb more torque, but so what. It has 5 less HP.
Anyways, I was just thinking about stuff because my headgasket is starting to leak, and I'm getting some super light ping on occasion as well. That and my timing belt needs to be changed. So I'm just figuring I'd drop a JDM motor in it with< 50k miles, instead of spending 2k on fixing the used motor.
Man I'd love to get something with 290-310 HP in that car.
At approximately 40 mph, engine shakes really hard, as if falling out of car. Does anyone know fix. Mechanic has replaced and balanced tires, replaced motor and transmission mounts, ruled out differential and appears stomped.
I need a reliable 4 door used under $4000, and I'm partial to Honda/Acura brand. Saw a 92 Acura Legend automatic w/197K miles on it that is owned by a mechanic; going to look at it tomorrow, but is this something that will last me another say, 50K miles if necessary? Thanks.
Comments
Once the head is replaced/repaired and a new head gasket applied, all should stop.
Good luck.
many thanks in advance.
Thanks.
I am looking at possibly buying a used 1993 or 1995 Legend and was wondering what repair costs in general are like. Are they considered high, average, or low in general?
I have heard that Acuras in general are fairly expensive to repair.
I am considering buying a 1993 Acura Legend 4D sedan. Is it true that this car can only use premium gasoline?
What will happen if I just use regular unleaded gas in it?
The Legend is so well set up that (in my case at least) I get about 10% better mileage with premium, while it costs about 6% more than regular. And, of course, since the price differential between regular and premium remains pretty rigid at ~$0.20/gal., the more expensive gas gets, the smaller the percentage in price difference.
Plus, it's a WHOLE LOT more fun to drive on premium, as the engine is high-compression and the computer has to compensate for regular.
Good luck, and have fun. Caution to the winds!
If it doesn't work out for you as it does for me, change. But you're better off with premium.
His buddy that was with him seemed to think my oil problem was internal due to seeing blue smoke but when I changed oil the guy told me I just had a gasket valve cover on the top that was leaking. Any ideas from anyone on that? No other engine symptoms than going through a lot of it.
Seth
When I start it, it lopes between 1k-3k rpm as if it has a big block chevy cam in it lol. drive or rev it gos away, but on idol it is very annoying.
Been checking for vac leaks, but to avail. Any sugestions?
Thank you for your time in this matter.
The pre-cat car is listed as 18 mpg and the other is listed at 19mpg, I even went online to break down the VIN and it does not tell me anything... So maybe the GOV. can't tell either??????
I've looked on-line on replacing the entire unit. New ones run over $500. However, I found one on e-bay for < $100. Has anybody had issues with this part and is it difficult to replace. If I replaced the entire unit, does this solve my problem on turning the on / off knob or is their another unit behind this one? Any information would be appreciated. The car is extremely low miles for a 21 year old car (< 90K) and I would love to keep it.
-Steve Ligor
The transmission guy did nothing in your coolant system..only your car is too old and has those hard hoses that moving around it causes it to crack then you have the leak. I know that is the easiest excuse but transmission system had b nothig to do with your cooling system. Also, I recommed that you replace your thermostatic valve in your cooling system. It is located inside the big hose towards your cylinder head coming from the top of the radiator. Make sure your engine is cold when opening the radfiator cap and replacing hoses.
The transmission guy did nothing in your coolant system..only your car is too old and has those hard hoses that moving around it causes it to crack then you have the leak. I know that is the easiest excuse but transmission system had b nothig to do with your cooling system. Also, I recommend that you replace your thermostatic valve in your cooling system. It is located inside the big hose towards your cylinder head coming from the top of the radiator. Make sure your engine is cold when opening the radfiator cap and replacing hoses.
electric stuff.
when the car is being started. The buzz means the pump is working but the injectors are not .. system presure is too low. No buzz, the pump is dead. You need a tech to work on fuel system due to risk of fire and hazard to you health.
The ignition module is is located close to the ignition coil left side of the engine bay, on top of the right fender near the fuse and relay box. It has two (2) ten millimeter bolts and a wire socket coming out of it. It aprox inch and half square and 5/16 or 3/8 inch thick. Hope this helps.
Anyways, I was just thinking about stuff because my headgasket is starting to leak, and I'm getting some super light ping on occasion as well. That and my timing belt needs to be changed. So I'm just figuring I'd drop a JDM motor in it with< 50k miles, instead of spending 2k on fixing the used motor.
Man I'd love to get something with 290-310 HP in that car.