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Real world mileage with 2.5 and CVT
I didn't see a thread dealing with actual mileage on the newer Legacy/Outback with the CVT so I thought I'd start one. I'm pretty sure the EPA rating is higher than with the old 4AT so let's see what we're actually getting.
I wasn't sure how "full" the dealer had mine on delivery but I filled it 4 days later and had 25+/-, which was all in town and some of it in snow. On the next tank I drove it up into the mountains, we live at 5100 feet and went over some high passes (through the Eisenhower tunnel and 10,000 at Vail pass) and then back again 3 days later. Most of that was at 65-70 MPH.
I got 29.6 MPG on that tank which I thought was great. Only about 30 miles of that was non freeway and obviously the downhill coming back really helped offset going up, but still I'm pretty happy.
easypar
I wasn't sure how "full" the dealer had mine on delivery but I filled it 4 days later and had 25+/-, which was all in town and some of it in snow. On the next tank I drove it up into the mountains, we live at 5100 feet and went over some high passes (through the Eisenhower tunnel and 10,000 at Vail pass) and then back again 3 days later. Most of that was at 65-70 MPH.
I got 29.6 MPG on that tank which I thought was great. Only about 30 miles of that was non freeway and obviously the downhill coming back really helped offset going up, but still I'm pretty happy.
easypar
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Comments
Is this drivetrain in an Outback or Legacy (in order to define performance vs.weight)? While traveling I-70, did the car feel underpowered? My wife and I test drove a 2010 Outback 3.6R Premium w/HK & Moon, and a 2.5i Limited w/Moon. We're unsure if the size and weight of the 2010 Outback would overwhelm the H-4 in terms of acceleration/performance; Are the increased cost of the H-6 and lower MPG's worth it? Your insight would be appreciated.
Merry Christmas,
Matt.
We didn't feel it was underpowered and that had been a concern of my wife's when we first looked. I've generally been driving V6s and V8s but as I've gotten older my right foot has gotten a bit "lighter".
easypar
in it for a test drive. We pulled a fairly steep highway grade up a hill for about 1.5 miles at an elevation of about 4,500 to about 75 MPH before he eased off. The car performed adequately pulling that grade without much fuss, it could have gone more for sure.
Test drive the H-4 at highway speeds and judge for yourself.
The H-6 will cost about $3,000 more for equivalent trim packages and get 4 less on the mpg per EPA. On the other hand there's no substitue for power especaily for crunch highway passing. Decisions decisions.
I bet you'll be getting 1-2mpg better after it's broken in.
easypar
35-45 mph is actually a good speed to achieve excellent fuel economy if little or no stopping is involved, so keep an eye on the economy and look for it to improve with even the next tank. If you are in an area that uses winter-blend fuel, the economy will jump later in the year, as well.
easypar
The car had me, my ski gear and some extra weight I was carrying for a buddy. I'm still a couple of hundred short of 3,000 miles on the car-Legacy-2.5-CVT.
32.2 on this tank, for a not yet broken in or oil changed engine I'm pretty happy.
Anyone else tracking their mileage?
easypar
Curious ... how did the trip computer MPG compare to your calculated figures?
I would attribute that to the CVT versus whichever tranny the Forester has. Still 4AT?
BTW, your mileage comports with that experienced by a friend with a new (09 or 10) Forester.
easypar
Our smaller, even lighter 1998 Forester manual got about the same. I'd say peak mileage is actually better with our 2009 automatic.
And that's good enough for me. I used to own a Jeep Wrangler that got 9 mpg if I was lucky on the highway. It also couldn't go faster than 60mph and had a tendency to catch on fire. :P
So why the difference in mileage?......
After refilling the tank, resetting the trip odometer, and clearing the avg. MPG in the computer, I noticed something. The needle on the fuel economy meter was not moving; It was fixed in the negative position until 1.0 miles were registered on the trip odo. Additionally, the avg. MPG indicator in the dashboard did not give a reading unil the trip odo showed 1.0 miles.
Does this mean the computer calculates avg. MPG based on whole miles only?? Is this the source of the difference??
So I checked my math using the numbers from our last tank: 366.1 mi. driven and 14.7gal. filled.
Removing the value in the tenth position: 366/14=26.1 MPG = Computer
With the value in the tenth position: 366.1/14.7=24.9 MPG = Manual
What do you think? Does the same hold true for your calculations?
If you zero out the odometer while coasting downhill, it would probably read 99.9mpg or something like that.
The trip computer is using the ECU to estimate metered fuel, while you're using actual gallons used. 1.2mpg is a bit optimistic but not so far off that it's not useful.
I didn't realize you could "clear" the reading on the dashboard. I notice you wrote "average MPG", mine (Legacy Limited) has a distance to empty reading. Most of my other cars have allowed me to change the dashboard settings. Maybe I should read the owner's manual :confuse:
easypar
There are 2 pegs in the gauge cluster, one left and one right. The left toggles and clears the trip odo's. The right toggles and clears the display in the dashboard. In the dash display, there are displays for avg. MPG, instant MPG, and distance to empty. You can toggle through the different displays at any time, but when the peg is depressed and held on a particular display, it will reset. We leave the display on the avg. MPG setting and reset it, and the trip odo, after refilling the fuel tank, prior to leaving the fuel station.
Back in the day, my grandparents' Chevy Caprice wagon (the family Trukster) had a gauge that indicated instant fuel economy like our OB does. Weird.
Hey, look at that! I guess I should have figured it was there, my last 3 or 4 cars have had similar buttons.
One other thing I've noticed is that the "distance to empty" is VERY SENSITIVE to real time changes in driving pattern. For example I'll fill up near home and put 50 miles or so on a tank, then I'll get on the interstate and head up to the Rockies for some skiing. As I start down the highway to Denver the DTE will go from 390 to 400 plus, until I start climbing the mountains, then it'll drop like a rock going up to the Eisenhower tunnel. On my way home (all downhill) it'll climb like crazy.
I'm assuming that this rapid change may be a function of not having many miles on the car (about 3700) but as I get more miles it'll still change, just not as rapidly.
Thanks for the head up regarding the right hand button
easypar
Ummm, no. In fact the opposite is true, it seems to change almost every 10 miles or so DEPENDING ON HOW THAT DISTANCE DRIVEN.
BTW, mine does great in the snow, but then I grew up and lived in snow country (except for that 30 year sentence in Texas) so I know the way to drive in snow; no sudden maneuvers, no sudden starts or stops, 4 wheel drive only helps you GO, not STOP, and most important, the OTHER GUY IS AN IDIOT. This last one applies everywhere, not just in snow!
easypar
That's basically what I meant.
Let's say you change drivers at a gas stop on a road trip. The new driver goes 20mph faster than the previous driver.
Makes sense for the trip computer to estimate the new driver's range.
The OB's winter MPG is the same as the Stratus' summer MPG, and she uses the remote start to preheat when it's cold. Also, the OB's long travel suspension and taller tire sidewalls are more forgiving on our sh!++y cratered roads.
The next week I took 5 people, their ski stuff (I have the Thule/Subaru top box) over to Glenwood and Aspen. No problems at the tunnel approaches, or Vail pass. Average was 26-28 MPG.
Cheers
2.5 CVT "Goldie"
12 gallons exactly, and I topped it off. 4130 miles on the odometer.
26.25 MPG, not too shabby.
I turned over 5,000 miles so I got the oil changed and tires rotated because we were going to Mt. Rushmore and that area. One one tank, with all but 100 miles being interstate we got 33.2 MPG. That was with two adults, a golf bag and a suitcase in the car. Usually drove 75 on the freeway.
Pretty happy with the mileage. The only thing I don't lke is the seats don't give enough support and my back hurts after two hours in either seat. The lumbar support doesn't help so I'm going to look around for a little "bolster" thingee.
Amazing fuel efficiency!
Bob
I find the same with my '10 Forester. It typically reads about 27.3 when I fill up and I usually get up to 0.5 mpg under 26 mpg calculated. This tank, though, we are at about 385 miles on the tank (local driving) and the readout is showing 29.4 (so, maybe an actual 27.5?). I'm happy about that for sure, with nothing different except having changed the air filter just before the last fill with a K&N. I hope the two are related, but I actually bought it because it is reusable for life, basically, so it will cut down on waste.
I did point out that the Reno to Salt Lake leg is (I think) slightly downhill. Still, with all the stuff in the trunk I'm pretty impressed.
Turned over 10K miles coming through Wyoming so took it in for the oil change. I've always just changed my oil on the 5,000 mile marks, much easier to track than the 7,500. Also with as much in town as we do I don't like to go that far on them.
BTW: car never felt underpowered on the highway
ldl20
I calculate every tankful.
In the 2600 miles I have driven in my 2011 Outback with CVT, I have averaged 32 MPG. 65% of that is interstate cruising, the remaining 35% is suburban driving witha little stop and go driving.
This past weekend, I was driving into a 20 MPH headwind. That tankfull was 2 MPG lower than the previous tankful. In terms of aerodynamics, the 2011 Outback is like a brick compared to the 2006 Outback I owned previously.
*gasp* AVERAGE?!
That is sweet! I can break 30mpg in our 09 Forester PZEV auto, but not when I mix in stop and go.