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Audi A6



  • OD, here's a new one. After 39,000 rattle free miles all of a sudden I'm getting a metallic tink-tink sound at about 40 mph. Sounds like it's coming from the left "A" pillar but it could be the headline, air conditioning vent or even the drivers door frame. What a mystery. Anyone else have a similar issue... if so what was the fix?
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    always want to know all the factors that went into your purchase...kinda like my standard barrage of questions...tell me what you specific thing...with all the things I read about quattro, do you feel your 2.8 handles as well as the others?...since I live in Atlanta, your reasons may apply to me...good luck with your audi, and thanks for your time and comments.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Dollars over dealer invoice for 4.2 should be similar to 2.7T, I.., $1K to $2k. Residuals aren't that simple. Depends on many factors - length of lease, number of miles allowed, month of year, region of country, and most importantly, what the lessor is willing to give you. Audi Financial can be generous. If you wish to em-ail the specifics, I'll try to give you an approximation.
  • rwishrwish Posts: 20
    I've been checking a lot of the Audi boards recently and the number one enhancement recommendation for the A6 2.7T seems to be for 17" tires. Most who do recommend a 17" tire upgrade speak of the Dunlop SP Sport 5000. A few comments/concerns:

    The pros of this tire seem to be the price, cornering and "all weather" ability. I've heard some complaints about thin sidewalls though (some have even called it a "cheap" performance tire). I'd be interested in comments about this tire and in general comments about other 17" performance tires for the 2.7T. Also, why don't I see more people recommend the SP Sport 9000 in the 17" variety? I was under the impression that this was also a high performance tire that was decent for all weather driving.

  • $.02 worth:

    The Dunlop SP 9000's (255 x 40 x 17") came on my 2000 A6 4.2 -- I replaced them at 20,000 miles with new 9000's -- best tires from any perspective I have ever had (well, OK they're not all season tires, so they are only OK in the winter -- but with a quattro in Cincinnati, snow or all-season tires are a performance compromise we don't really have to make).

    I would recommend them very highly -- they are better than the Pirelli P6000's on my 2001 A6 4.2 (sport package). I will replace the P6000's with the SP 9000's -- they (the 9000's) are just that good!

    Heck, even the 8000's are pretty darn good (came on my friend's '99 A4 2.8 q w/ sport package). Better, in my opinion than the Pirelli's I have now.
  • rwishrwish Posts: 20

    Actually I live in Cincy too! My 2000 2.7 come with the same Dunlop 9000 tires you mentioned BUT they are 16" and there in lies the rub. I'd really like to have 17" for better and tighter handling. My justification for 17" Dunlop 5000 or 17" Pirelli P7000 tires was going to be that that they were "all-weather". The 8000 series isn't an option. While the 9000 may hold up in Cincy winters, the 8000 won't. They are strictly a "sticky" tire for the summer. If I had your 17" 9000's, I'd be content too. I'm kind of in a quandary as to what to do. I see 3 options:
    1.) stay with Dunlop 9000's in 16"
    2.) move to Dunlop 9000's in 17"
    3.) move to Dunlop 5000's in 17" (or the Pirelli)

  • I Had the same problem on my 2000 2.7T. Although I was certain it was coming from the headliner, the dealer insisted on replacing the A-pillar first. This, by the way is an EXTREMELY difficult process as the pillar is damaged during removal. Finally, the cause was found to be the headliner rattling against the roof. It was corrected by taking down the headliner and installing some extra padding. Of course,in the process, the 2nd A-pillar was damaged and had to be replaced. So, all in all, I went through 3 A-pillars before the problem was ultimately corrected. It also took 3 trips to the dealer. Good Luck!
  • Rwish:

    My one month old 2001 A6 4.2 w/sport package has Pirelli P6000's Z rated 255 x 40 x 17 -- and they are OK -- but not when compared to the SP 9000's. I have not personally had experience with the 8000's -- but my friend (he lives in Dallas) swears by them (on his 1999 A4 2.8 quattro with sport suspension package).

    If I were in your shoes, I would PROBABLY go with 17" SP9000's == you can even buy Audi 17" wheels (from the Audi accessory book) either on line or at the dealer (I think they will cut you a deal if you ask nicely -- at the dealer, that is).

    I plan to replace my P6000's with the Dunlop SP 9000's -- and keep the Audi 17" sport package wheels.

    Keep us posted as to your choice. And good luck.
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    Be aware that going to 17's will probably give you a substantially harsher ride (not to be confused with farmer). You'll feel every crack in the pavement.
  • Rwish:

    My 1997 A8 came with 17" wheels and 55 series tires, I "plus zero'd" them to 50 series tires and even replaced the stock US A8 suspension with the German "S8" sport suspension -- what little harshness I noticed was minimal (a stiffer ride, better performance, yes -- hardly harsh). Both of my A6 4.2's (one with sport suspension and one with standard suspension) came with 255 x 40 x 17 wheel/tires (the lower the profile, i.e., the number "40" in this case, the harsher the ride). I "dreaded" the harsh ride I was absolutely certain would accompany this wheel/tire combo.

    Again, "hardly harsh" at all was my reaction. The lowest profile tire I had even ridden/driven was on an S4 which had 225 x 45 x 17"s and I "knew" my butt would feel every expansion joint and my ears would hear every crack -- cross my heart -- no butt bouncing and -- especially with the Dunlop SP9000's -- very little road noise (on the A6's that is).

    I read an article that said lower profile tires (which usually are a consequence of increasing the wheel's diameter over "the stock set up") can improve handling, can make the car look better, can make the car ride more harshly and can be noisier -- and, they can be more susecptible to "damage" from pot holes (because the sidewalls are stiffer). The article said that lower profile tires have become more "viable" as the body and frames of cars in recent years have increased torsional stiffness.

    While I do not have an engineering degree, I think this means the stiffness of the sidewall is much more of an issue (with respect to ride harshness) if the car that these stiff tires are mounted on/under is itself NOT stiff.

    Audi (and several others) have made huge strides in chassis stiffness over the past few years (must be working with all that aluminium) -- and with my butt and my ears as witnesses, a 2000 or 2001 Audi A4, A6, A8, TT, Allroad, S4 and S8 are not adversely effected by a "plus one" [17" wheel in your case, rwish] sizing of the wheel/tire combination (the 8's even seem great with the 18" wheels).

    So while I agree with the sentiments and the principle of dwpc's statement, I believe that you will NOT have a substantially harsher ride. You may notice some extra firmness and you will notice better performance and, depending on the wheels, the car will have an improved appearance. There are some pretty nice Audi wheels -- they will set your car apart, but they are "Audi" accessories (and there are a whole host of cool wheels available from many sources here on the WWW).

    That's the way I see it rwish!

    Go for the 17's.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    for all of your aggravation with the headliner repair, at least it sounds like the dealer was attempting to fix the problem, rather than poo-poo it and say that the problem will "go away with time."
  • bthirkbthirk Posts: 8
    Ready to go forward with a purchase of a 2.7T. Curious if anybody has thoughts on the 17" version of the Sport Package (PST) and the Premium Radio (PBS). I have heard mixed reviews on these items. Any comments would be helpful.

  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    I suggest listening to both (standard and dose) systems before you decide. The two systems have quite different sound characteristics. Although the dose system costs more, there are MANY A6 owners (including me) who prefer the sound of the standard system. This is a perfect example of a situation where your own personal taste may very well favor the less-expensive choice.

    Here's a recommended methodology: Take a few of your favorite ODs to a dealer and locate a pair of A6 sedans, one with the standard system and one with the dose. (Note that you can listen to the stereo systems without a key; as long as the cars are unlocked you don't need to involve a sales person.) I usually then set the bass, treble, and mid range controls to their "flat" (decent) positions; another logical approach is to adjust them for the best sound, subjectively determined by your ear. Once you've adjusted each system to your liking, it's a simple matter of deciding which sound characteristics you prefer.

    In addition, be aware that the head unit is the same regardless of which system you choose; only the maps and speakers differ. With the dose system, the maps and speakers are matched to each other. (The amps provide required equalization for the Bose speakers.) Therefore, you can't replace one (with an after-market upgrade) without upgrading the other; if you upgrade the amps and speakers you've thus completely nullified the Bose package. Bottom line: If you intend to upgrade amps and/or speakers, get the standard audio system.
  • cgwcgw Posts: 7
    I see you used the new spell checker (since I assume you meant Bose, not dose and CDs, not ODs). In a post I made elsewhere, it changed hp to up. Such is progress.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Wow, look at that! Yes, I used the spell checker and didn't realize that it changes things on its own!

    Thanks for the heads-up, Chris!

    - Mike
  • If you want to upgrade the sound system in your Audi -- DO NOT BUY THE PREMIUM BOSE upgrade. Do not even think about it.

    There are several after - market upgrades that are better than virtually anyone's "factory" system -- having said that the Audi Bose system is pretty good -- and there is a fair amount of punch added due to the subwoofer in the BOSE upgrade.

    The advice above is best, take a CD that you know VERY WELL and listen to it (from the same posistion -- say, the driver's seat) in a Bose and Standard system equipped cars -- back to back (and with the windows rolled up). Remember that the louder system will appear to be "better" -- set the tone controls for your "best" sound and then crank the volume to the same levels on both cars -- you may find the Bose just isn't worth it -- especially if you mostly listen to the radio and moreso if you mostly listen to AM radio. Much FM radio is so compressed that even it doesn't have much in the way of very low or very high frequecies.

    Also there is a phrase, that does have its roots in truth -- "no highs, no lows. . .must be Bose."

    This phrase came from the original Bose "direct reflecting" loudspeaker which used, as I recall, 8 identical drivers facing the same direction and one "on the other side" -- the speakers in this array were all so-called midrange speakers that produced highs and lows via an electronic manipulation called "equalization." Many Bose systems, today DO have tweeters and woofers -- not just mid-range, but this is just a bit of the very deep Bose root. Mostly a story -- not too true today.

    Take a test listen is still the best advice.
  • I am interested in adding CD Changer to my sound system for A6 2000 model. Are there any suggestions that are less expensive than the dealer installed model.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Quite a few folks have bought their Audi CD changer from Clair via mailorder for a few hundred. Like, 40% to 50% of new list. URL included.
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Yup. The OEM changer is $300 from Clair. You can easily install it yourself in about 15 minutes, and you'll have full compatibility with your factory head unit. If you want a changer, this is the only way to go.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    I've been biding my time thinking that I'd take advantage of leftover opportunities, or in the alternative, a low mileage 2000. I'm leaning toward a 4.2 or a 2.7T. Problem is that the depreciation hit doesn't exist as far as dealers are concerned. I still haven't started playing hardball though, and the tune might change when the rubber meets the road. Anyone else have experience along these lines? Also, I test drove a "used" 2001 4.2 with about 500 miles ( that's right, 500 miles). It had the premium and sport packages, as well as xenon lights. I liked it, but the sport seats have me a little worried. Being 6' and 240lbs. ( running back in college) the seats are a bit snug. Will they break in at all? It's a concern on a $50,000 car. The salesman didn't say much about the car except that it was an executive vehicle out of Detroit. I'm betting the executive didn't like the seats. Any thoughts?
  • I just took delivery of a '01 A6 4.2 in Dec. In Ohio, the '00's that were left were going for almost $5K off of sticker. However, I got my '01 for $50K even (sticker was over $53). Straight cash deal, no trade. When I calculated the value of the extended warranty for four years vs. three, the ESP that the '01 had and the '00 did not, what really amounted to a small difference in price, and the depreciation involved it was an easy choice to go with the '01. Sorry, I can't comment on the sport seats but I found the regular suspension with the 17" wheels to be a great compromise between the too harsh 540i and the wallowy GS400. I can speak from experience because I owned a GS400 for two years and have driven several 540's. I was bored with the GS after a couple of months, I don't sense I'll feel that way about the Audi. Good luck; you may have trouble finding any '00's left.

  • rwishrwish Posts: 20
    The one at Clair is much cheaper than one sold by Audi BUT is even cheaper than Clair. The one with product number OEMAUDI8 is an 8-changer system that is $194.95 with tax and shipping included (the 6 changer at clair is $299 last I saw). Strangely the 6 changer sold at autotoys is more ($233) than their 8! I'm not sure why. The Audi Bose system was intended for a 6 cd changer but the 8 cd changer WILL work and an adapter for the plug is included in the set. With the 8 changer you can't DIRECTLY access the 7th and 8th disks. To get to number 7, you'd need to go to 6th disk and then use the > button. Still, if you get the 6 changer, you won't even have the option for a 7th or 8th disk and it's more expensive. You need to be very careful when buying a changer for the Bose system for compatibility reasons. The one at Clair (a Panasonic), and two at all work fine. For a third option, also sells the same one as Clair. In case that was slightly confusing, here's the cliff note version: - Panasonic 6 changer - $299 - Panasonic 6 changer - $279 - OEMAUDI8 8 disk changer - $195 - OEMAUDI6 6 disk changer - $233

    The two at are also Panasonic changers. The most important thing is that they are compatible and in fact the part description says:

    My 2 cents. Get the one from Autotoys for $195.

    Good luck.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    I've got my eye on a new '00 4.2 in the color I want and the equipment I want : 17" wheels, heated seats, xenons and rear airbags. The dealer was at $47,900 ( msrp of a little over $51,000) back in June and was still there last week! As I said, I haven't walked in with a certified check yet, but I'm close. I'd like to be in the $43-44 ish range to feel good about not buying a year's depreciation. Actually, for that price range I could be in a '01 2.7T no problem, except I really like the 4.2's styling and big engine. I've seen a couple of pre-owned '00 4.2's, all with 9-12,000 miles, and asking price is usually around $46,000. Realistic price should be a whole lot lower. Does anyone have an opinion re ESP? Is that alone worth me going in to a '01? There is also a pre-owned '00 2.7T with about 12,000 miles, for about $38,000...maybe I should buy it and take the family to Disney World.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    I'm with you concerning the sports seats. They catch me in the shoulder blades. That's why I ordered a 2.7T with standard seats, though I think I would have preferred the sport suspension. Irrespective of how much they might break in, the basic configuration would still be too narrow for my back. Regarding seating comfort, a surprising thing is that the interior color selected seems to affect this. Different leathers are used for different colors. Melange and Vanilla both use calfskin and they are softer. They actually do make the seats feel more comfortable. I was surprised to be able to discern a difference.
  • I have owned a 96 Merc E320 since new. Great car except for the wiper blade and cruise control. Would consider another, but model change is still two years away, and I want a change. Have test driven Acura MDX, various BMW,s and narrowed my search for a replacement down to the A6 2.7 and the new Volvo S60 T. I am prepared to make a decision soon. Does anyone have a comment or suggestions why I should choose Audi over Volvo?
  • jim3039jim3039 Posts: 28
    Been out of town, sorry for delayed response. Regarding your quattro question, I felt the front track handled better the Saab 9-5 SE I was considering. Overall, when it came down to it, the drive in the A6 just felt "right." I walked away from my A6 test drive excited. I was not nearly as thrilled after driving the Saab. But, if I lived in Atlanta (and I did for a year) I would opt for the quattro, especially with the weather you've had lately!
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    I looked at the Autotoys web site and can tell you that they use the term "OEM" much too freely. While these changers might work in some Audis, they are not OEM! Of the units listed for Audi, the only one that MIGHT be the real deal is the 6-disc unit for $249, and even that's questionable since they don't provide a picture and they call all of their "Audi-compatible" changers "OEM". (OK, maybe I'm being too tough on them. Maybe they really ARE made by the "Original Equipment Manufacturer", but they're NOT the original equipment changers!)

    Personally, I'd have a problem buying from a company that so obviously tried to misrepresent the products as being OEM. (Not only that, but they consistently misspell "Matsushita"!)

    In addition, they describe most of the changers as not being compatible with the Bose system, which is absolute hogwash. The standard Audi and Bose systems use the same head unit; if a changer works with one it will work with the other. It's remotely possible that a bit of re-programming (with a VAG tool) could be required, but that's it.

    The $299.95 unit at Clair IS the real deal, the same unit as installed at the Audi factory. I think knowing that is worth a few extra bucks.
  • petrie3petrie3 Posts: 47
    Mosi1: Seems to me and leftover 2000 4.2 should be no higher than invoice at this point. If it has been on the lot since June, the dealer is eating alot of interest cost on his floorplan loan. Keep in mind, on the 2000 you've had a year of depreciation already and a shorter warranty ( 3 vs 4 on the 2001). Have you made a solid offer on it yet? I'll bet he takes invoice or even lower. This assumes that you like the color, options, etc. If not, look at a 2001 2.7t. Great car, about the same $ as the 2000 4.2 and an extra year of warranty (better seating for 3 kids in back too!). BTW, buying a used one and going to Disneyworld ain't a bad idea either! Good luck!

    Gem: I have both a 2000 A6 2.7t and a 2000 Volvo s80 T-6. Both are great cars. My wife drives the S80. After about a year of driving both, I prefer the A6. While she says she prefers the S80, even she raves about the Audi's beautiful fit and finish and interior appointments and solid feel when driving. I just feel more solid and glued to the road in the Audi compared to the Volvo. Lots of torque steer to the S80 too. Perhaps that's what contributes to the less "in control" feel when I drive it. I don't think you'd go wrong with either car, but Audi is definitely more of a "driver's" car.
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