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So some time next week, I must return to the same place and give them another try!?
I am hoping someone else out there had this problem already so i can give the service people some hints as to what to look for. Being told that perhaps it is an "intermittent problem" in not satisfactory for a safety device, much less a flagship/$27000+ car.
I am going to have my dealership work on it on next visit.
The Edmund's review on Avalons is something every potential buyer ought to read.
Hawaii... The air bag light flashes and there is no code? That is very unusual. When is it flashing and how long does it flash? You are aware that it will flash for several seconds after start up right?
footie, I am curious about this noise you are hearing. Do you have a moonroof? Before you have anybody tear the roof apart, allow me to tell you the most common cause of excess wind noise. People are not closing the roof properly. The let it shut until the roof looks flush from the inside. They don't let it move up into its recess. From the inside, it looks like the roof is shut but it isn't. I can't tell you how many very intelligent people make this mistake and I include a demonstration of this when delivering a car. This is also the most common cause of roof leaks.
The roof noise in our Avalon XLS is a clicking, popping sound from the passenger, rear roof area and it appears to be caused by driving over rough pavement. It doesn't happen on every bump I hit, but about 50% of the time. It is reproducible and has been demonstrated to Toyota zone and confirmed by our local delivery dealership.
We've had this clicking, popping (along with four other rattles and squeaks that have been fixed) since June 2 and 3 unsuccessful passes at it by Toyota "Master Technicians" to resolve.
Very disappointing that there was even one. I've had three Corolla and one Camry loaners during service, and driven them over the same interstate that I drive each day to/from work, they were all quieter from a rattles and squeaks point of view than our Avalon.
Yes, the moonroof takes up an inch or two of headroom. I wish I didn't have one. The Passat does have great headroom, as do Mercedes and Audis (I think). The avalon could be as good if they just gave it a couple of inches more seat travel, downward.
Who knows, maybe the 2001 will have some refinements like that.
As I read it, this year is @ 87% ahead of 1999. Not bad!
By the way, that site has stats for other makes too. Click "home", then "Industry Stats" and "choose an automaker". Buick LeSabre sales are down from last year, but still far ahead of the Avalon, so the Avalon is not the #1 large car. Not yet!
It doesn't happen often, but it is really blinding. Has anyone found a fix for this problem?
this is intentional to prevent someone from taking a coat hanger or stiff wire and pushing it through the side of a window and then using it to press the unlock button. It is much more difficult to move the maunal button this way.
Thanks!!!
First, I'd like a more sports-like suspension. http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto3/9906AUASRM.html suggests that "sportier suspension tuning" is coming. In 2001? Or is there aftermarket equipment that will help? (I really don't want to get a BMW! I've have good luck with Toyota's in the past, one over 100K and one over 200K.)
Second, the audio system doesn't seem to have any form of dynamic range compression on CDs. I listen to a lot of classical music and had to keep adjusting the volume during my two extended test drives. Is there a setting I missed?
I'm resigned to an automatic, although I've driven nothing but stick for decades. Seems like the Japanese has forgotton about manual transmissions in conjunction with 6 cyl.
In regard to UWILSGD Automatic locking and unlocking please note that several months ago someone wrote in a response to a question similar to yours. Look back in the files about 2 to 3 months ago (I don't know if there is a way to search for it). I tried the procedure they reccomended but it did not work. It may be because I have an XL or the fact that I don't have the security system. If you can't find it or no one responds I may have saved the procedure. I won't have time to look for it until the weekend. I'll watch the postings until then.
thanks for the info regarding the roof noise. Please keep me posted. I'd like to know what they say. There are far too many squeaks and rattles in my car and I'd like to eliminate as many as possible.
uwilsgd:
I was told that you could not turn off the auto-lock feature. However, I did go to a shop in that installed after market theft alarms and they installed a module in the car that unlocks all four doors when the car is turned off. This is a much better feature than having just the driver's door unlock.
http://www.toyotapart.com, I ordered a set and installed them this evening. I have had my 2000 XLS for 9 months, and have 11,000+ miles on it with no problems, however it has always bugged me that Toyota did not offer mud flaps, as wheel spray marks really show up on white pearl paint. These flaps came in a Toyota box, with bilingual markings (english and french), so I suspect that they are from Canada (the instructions, however, are only in english). Molded into the flaps are "Avalon Left Front" etc. Before ordering, I checked with my local Toyota dealer here in Southern California, and was told they were not available. They are black, fit perfect, are straigt forward to install, and came with all required hardware. The front flaps utilize two existing screws on the front side of the inner fender, and require a 1/16" hole be drilled in the underside plastic of the front fender. I had to jack up the car to drill this hole. The rear flaps utilize three existing holes, and also require one 1/16" hole be drilled in the front face of the inner fender plastic. I did not remove the rear wheels, but in hindsight it would have probably been easier to remove the wheel as clearance is tight. I have not seen the Contura aftermarket mud flaps mentioned in previous posts, but these are Toyota factory parts, look great and fit perfect, even to the point of having a molded-in bump to fill in the gap between the front fender and the rocker panel. At $80 a set, plus $8 for shipping, they are a bit pricy, but they do go on a $30,000 car! I won't miss scrubbing tar streaks off the rocker panels every week!
However toyotaparts4u is offering colorkeyed mudguards (AND NO drilling) for less than than $57 plus shipping. Apparently these come from the previous maligned (in this forum) SE dealership group. Will update when I get them. BTW, thanx to the previous posts for the addresses... I also lost a bid on ebay at $61 plus shipping.
Can anyone explain how the traction control and vehical stability work. I am considering this option, but an having trouble finding any information on it.
Potatoe,
Thanks for the information, I will give Walnut Creek Toyota a visit.
Have now driven our '00 XLS about 1,000 miles. Love It! Cannot believe the dynamic improvements over the '98 model. Only complaint is a paint chip picked up on the leading edge of the hood. (Where is the chip-resistant paint?) However, near that chip was a factory 'nub'. Factory is paying to fix all and blend in.
Here's my question: I've noted there are some areas, under the fenders, that the spray-person missed. Also, there appear to be open areas around the fender inserts. Is this normal? Is it O.K. to apply more undercoating/sound proofing material? Is there a particular brand I should look for?
Thanks for your response. You should look forward to greatly increased sales on this winner.
One thing - the internet group is located in a separate building from the dealership, across the street, in the back of the car lot.
Traction Control:
The "VSC" option on the Avalon includes 3 functions; Traction Control, Brake Assist and Vehicle Skid Control.
All 3 functions build on the ABS system.
Traction Control - keeps the drive wheels from slipping when too much power is applied, or the road is slick. I think it does this by using the ABS sensors to detect wheel spin, and then it brakes the slipping wheel(s) and, if necessary, cuts back the throttle. Since the Avalon doesn't have the power to spin its wheels on dry pavement, Traction Control is most useful on snowy or wet pavement.
Brake Assist - helps you stop quicker in emergency situations. The computer detects when the brake is applied more quickly than usual, and instantly applies full braking power. (ABS still keeps you from skidding.) People sometimes hesitate to stomp on the brakes, so this can help in avoiding or minimizing an accident.
Vehicle Skid Control (VSC) - helps the car corner better when it starts to slip sideways. For exmple, in an "understeer" condition (the car isn't turning as quickly as desired), "VSC controls the engine output and at the same time brakes the front wheels and inside rear wheel to help control the understeering tendency of the vehicle." (Portion in quotes is from the Avalon "Product Information" booklet.)
VSC is sometimes considered a performance feature because you have to corner really really hard to activate it on dry pavement. It can also enhance safety on slippery roads.
IMHO, the Avalon's VSC option is a great value. Lexus, Mercedes and others charged a lot more for these features in recent years. Unfortunately, somebody decided that it's primarily a bad weather option, so not many cars are shipped to California with the feature. At least, that's how it was 9 months ago.
Also have intermittent air bag light.
Had brake noise at 5000 miles, they did pads and cut rotors. Now I think the rotors are warped, the shake at high speed braking.
Has anyone had the reps look at struts-I know there are service bulletins but I want to be prepared for there statements.
Any help would be great.
Oh well, count me among the lemmings that bought a silver one.
Do you know of other instances where this is happening?
The undercoating was applied at the factory.
Any Ideas as to how this stuff should or should not be removed and reapplied?
I've asked for assistance from Toyota, but it seems to have fallen on deaf ears. They, Toyota, are now passing me from one person to the next without any resolution to this problem.
Thanks,
tossup
Any sightings any one?
They fit perfectly and look real nice. I am glad that i did not get the black ones. But to each his own. They appear to be made of the same materials that bumpers are made of, so they should last. BUt they do not appear to be as sturdy as the OEM ones I had on my 93 Corolla, which were a heavy black rubbery material.
To sum up:
If you want OEM, black mudguards, these are from Toyota-Canada. Toyparts.com will sell them to you
for $64 Cnadian plus shipping. The lowest US price for these imported mudflaps are $61 plus shipping, which is right around what they have gone for on EBAY. If you want them right away,the high end of the price ranged from $99 to &120! See post #176 for install. info. on these OEM mudguards. To avoid the problem of a lack of clearance in the wheel well, you a need a right angle driver with philips attachment.I used a crescent wrench to turn my philips driver head, socket wrench would have been easier. Or a right angle or flexi- drill.
If you want color-matched mudguards, these are sold by SE region dealerhips, I got mine from www.toyotaparts4u.com at a discount $56.41, plus $8 shipping. They install easily.
I also have small areas like you describe, I just thought it was protective grease. My avalon is also @ 3 weeks "old" and was made in 7/00. I had planned on adding to the undercoating on some of the post #184 bare areas, and vulnerable spots depending on how badly the "grease" is coming off. I would be leery of any advice, comments or recommendations from those aftermarket undercoaters. My Dads 1970 Corona had body rust after 3 years (with a ziebart job). So did my moms 1966 dodge. Cons. Reports said this is mainly because ziebart jobs at that time covered the drain holes. Both my 1986 Corolla(after 6 years) and 1993 Corolla (after 8 years) had no body rust, and all I did was spot spray some areas with additional undercoating (less than one can).
According to CR, this is due to the improvements in corrosion control by most if not all automakers. Plus they recommend rinsing/shooting off your undercarriage several times a year, and being careful not to block any drainage holes if you do add undercoating. In Hawaii, we have year round salt in the air, rain etc but at least no slushy roads in the winter.
If we both have a bad batch of undercoating it seems that it still provides protection to a certain extent, though perhaps not enough in certain conditions.
But if it is just grease, maybe that is why a poor response from Toyota so far.
Also, some areas are dry to the touch, but I do have some soft greasy areas as described by tossup.
It's not something I would complain about since I got it for free,but any additional light you can shed would be appreciated.
Look at item # 63,64 & 65 on this forum.
Hope this helps.