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My only concern is the rusting window molding on the driver's side rear door. I know a few of you here have had it corrected. Would someone please re-inform me about the best method for removing the rust or the molding? Did warranty cover it?
Earlier, jvenezia asked about good Hyundai service departments. I found outstanding service at the dealership where I bought my car, Fox Hyundai in Grand Rapids, MI. The place was always clean, and the service writers had actually lifted a hood before (I haven't been so sure about the nearby Hyundai dealership just outside of Portland). I would recommend Fox to anyone in Grand Rapids.
I am once again tempted to take the new car plunge, this time with a base Sonata (which already has EVERYTHING) so that I can continue driving a stick shift. It is so beautiful. But then again, how will I see my Betsy cross the 200K mark?
JV -- good luck with Fox; I really like them. As for GR/Holland, it is its own little world of exile.
Jim
in USA now.....
I asked one Hyundai service manager that tells me I should
not use E10 gas, it will cause pinging and knocking.
I ask another Hyundai service manager that tells me...yes
use E10, its good for the engine and will help reduce carbon
deposits and prevent pinging and knocking!
I ask another Hyundai service manager and he tells me E10
is great for the engine!
This is crazy! There seems to be so much misinformation
regarding E10 Ethanol blend!
How can you avoid using E10 if virtually all gasoline is
now selling E10? It makes no sense!
So, what is the truth here? Will E10 prove to be harmful
to the Elantra engine over the years and 150,000 miles??
The Elantra uses a group 24F battery. Mine was replaced under warranty with an Interstate battery.
MTP-24F - Mega-Tron Plus - 85 Months - 800 CCA
SPECIFICATIONS
Weight: 47.10 pounds
Length: 11 inches
Width: 6.88 inches
Height: 8.75 inches
Cranking Amps: 1000
Cold Cranking Amps: 800
Voltage: 12
Termination: A
Jim
I've used it all of this time without any damage to any engine, and I have two cars with over 160K on the clock, and they're still going strong.
I would suggest the one service manager who claimed it would damage your engine do his homework. Obviously, he is terribly misinformed.
BTW . . . the Indy car circuit (IRL) which has burned 100% methanol, and CART before it, for years is switching to 100% ethanol fuel for 2007.
happy motoring
If I have any complaint with the car it's the CELs I've gotten. I had several attributed to loose fuel cap, then one they fixed by putting in a new purge control valve (under warranty). Since that was replaced, no more "loose fuel cap" CELs. Coincidence? Who knows.
The latest one is being blamed on the MAF sensor and a new MAF is being put on as I write this. My theory is that to get the ULEV rating, Hyundai had to tighten up on all their engine parameters such that at least some cars are on the hairy edge of what the computer thinks is okay. I'm hoping that whatever CELs I'm getting all get covered under warranty, but we'll see.
Driveability has never been an issue, though. The car hasn't stranded me, and even though the CELs for the purge valve and the MAF sensor were both P0172, running rich, my mileage has always been consistent and slowly improving, so I tend to believe it is a sensor thing and the car isn't really running rich. We'll see.
BTW, found out yesterday that my trusted Hyundai tech was hit on his motorcycle by a red light runner and may loose some of his fingers. Witness accounts state the lady that ran the light wasn't even close. He had a green light, hesitated, and saw her blowing through at the last second and tried to avoid. I am going over for tranny service on Saturday and will find out how he is doing.
Red light runners here in the Austin area have become epidemic. I have lost count of how many fatalities have occured this year by these idiots. In most cases what I see are not the "it was just pink" violators, but the "screw you, I ain't stopping" jackasses that think they are the center of the universe. Some of the courts here are starting to hand down major sentencing on these where accidents occur.
Interesting Interstate is one of the best out there; reason # 23,651 why I don't trust CR.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Snakeweasel -- I'll trust CR as I have for years because I know people who have worked for the organization, and I haven't yet read how you test batteries to determine that Interstate is "one of the best".
So have I and thats another reason I won't trust CR (among some others), some of the things he told me are down right worrisome.
I haven't yet read how you test batteries to determine that Interstate is "one of the best".
I have never "tested" batteries, but those that have support that claim.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Please forgive me for asking you this question again, but I
dont seem to remember your response completely.....
Im about to replace my OEM Michelin tires on my 2005 GLS.
Im deciding between the Kumho Solus KH16 or Cooper Lifliner
SLE. I know you said that the Cooper were even more smoother
and quieter than the OEM Michilens, but are the Kumhos even
better than the Coopers??
There was much discussion of this in the Stories from the Sales Frontline forum, and I don't doubt it's any different for the service department.
The surveys that the manufacturers perform after sales and after service are, in fact, hidden though it may be, pass-fail. Anything less than a "perfect" is considered failure by the manufacturers and negative financial implications ensue.
Visit the Customer Satisfaction Surveys discussion for more information.
And yeah, the whole concept bites - the consumer, the dealer, everyone involved. :mad:
miles and the timing belt has never been changed. How many miles have some of you gone without changing the timing belt? Has anyone changed their own?
I went 120K on my 2000 wagon, but I wouldn't recommend it. At 76K you should change it to be on the safe side.
Has anyone changed their own?
I would have a qualified mechanic do it.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Is that an interference engine? Or, more to my point, is the engine family that the 2005 falls into an interference engine?
website that you should ALWAYS use the Hyundai Elantra OEM
oil filter because it has a anti drain back valve. Well,
most quality oil filters have this valve! My independent shop
that I has been going to the last 10 years uses either Wix
or Hastings oil filters, which are just has superior as
the OEM oil filter. So why all the fuse??
These kids on this site, Elantraxd.com, have a tendency to
exaggerate a bit and make it sound so dramatic that if you a
use a non-OEM oil filter, you car will self destuct!
I do understand that Hyundai does have a TSB out regarding
"certain" non OEM filters, MAY cause your Elantra to
POSSIBLY ping or knock.
These kids read this and than exaggerate.
P.S. It was clear that I was not in the market for a car in the near future (just stopped in to get some parts), so the sales rep had no reason to give me inaccurate info to push me to buy something today vs. waiting for the '07 Elantra.
I told my service guy that unless they put Castrol in my car they would not be seeing for its 60 day oil changes any longer.
Although Hyundai's web site still shows the '07 Sonata GLS MT available, why would you need one when you could get the roomy '07 Elantra for less money?
I wouldn't put too much stock in that saleperson's line about them running out of Elantras though. I was just up at a dealer in Brooklyn Park (a Mpls. suburb) last week and they had over 30 Elantras in stock. The salesman there said Hyundai had built out the '06s but was still shipping remaining inventory. He also stated they were now building the '07s but hadn't shipped any yet (and wouldn't until the '06s were completely cleared from the holding lots).
I often wonder where these guys get their info and what portion of it is accurate and how much is competely fabricated. Most seemed little more informed than the average buyer.
I wonder how many Days Sales 30 Elantras represents for Morrie's Hyundai, and how many 2006s they'll get from here on out? It's still four months to January.
I've been waiting for the incentives to ratchet up on the '06s and swoop in to replace my '02 GLS. Perhaps I waited too long. The more cars I've test-driven lately, the more I realize why I bought my Elantra to begin with. And I think the '07s look nasty (not in the good way). I'm not trying to pick any fights here - aesthetics are a personal thing.
Which one are you going to get? My favorite is the GLS hatchback with the grey (sport cloth interior), e.g. silver.
True. I got caught up in that. I bought in early October, right after the rebates were reduced. To find a hatch Elantra, I had to drive to a dealer 40 miles from my home (three other dealers are much closer).
If you want a plain-jane whatever-color Elantra, you might wait a little more, but if you want a hatch, NOW is the time; they won't be around much longer, especially since there is no 07 hatch.
Which one are you going to get? My favorite is the GLS hatchback with the grey (sport cloth interior), e.g. silver.
Yeah, I love my interior; very sporty. Every hatch that comes with gray interior comes with this:
I have a technical question on my 2006 Elantra GLS that our local dealer's Service Department can't answer. What is the formulation of the engine coolant/anti-freeze installed at the factory in the 2006 Elantra?
The owner's manual states to simply use an ethylene glycol-based coolant, however, there are three (3) types of ethylene glycol coolant currently on the market:
1). IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology) coolant. This is the old, standard coolant available for years, and is typically green in color. NOTE: My 2006 Elantra's coolant is green.
2). HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant. This is a newer form of coolant that is a low-nitrate, phosphate-free, and low pH formulation which includes greater protection for alloys, including aluminum. Commonly available types include: Mercedes-Benz coolant, and Valvoline Zerex G-05 formulation, and can be various colors, but the most typical is yellow or amber. BTW . . . Valvoline manufactures M-B coolant - M-B and Valvoline G-05 are one and the same! I've personally used this type for years in my other cars, and is excellent coolant. No more "white oxide" around your thermostat housing with this stuff - I've never experienced a cooling system-related failure using this formulation for the last 15 years.
3). OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant. This is the newest formulation of coolant that is nitrate and phosphate-free, and low pH, and also has improved corrosion protection for metal alloys. Commonly available types include: GM DexCool, and Honda coolant, and also can be various colors, including red and gold. Valvoline also has an OAT-type coolant, and their website implies this coolant type should be used by all Asian vehicles, including Hyundai.
Since the latter OAT-type coolant is NOT compatible with the other two types, I would sincerely appreciate to know what type is used by the factory.
No one seems to know, and this is actually a critical question for owners who perform much of their own preventive maintenance. Interestingly, the Service Manager at the local dealer says: "We just go to NAPA and buy their standard coolant for use in all Hyundais." Frankly, I don't think he realizes there are 3 different types of coolants used today.