Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

igarrett

My wifes 99 Elantra is showing the above codes and the book says these are intermittant misfires. My question is where to start. I can do the plugs, wires and coil, but after that I am kinda limited in the knowledge area. I have run a couple of bottles of injector cleaner through it with no positive change. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please reply to this email and my home email . Thanks

jlflemmons

How many miles are on the car, and have the plug wires been changed? How long since last tune up?

igarrett

I went ahead and changed out the plugs and wires as a start and discovered that one plug was broken, and two wires had fallen apart or deteriorated to the point that I had to use some duct tape on the end of a screw driver to get out all the little pieces. I replaced all the wires and plugs, started it up and it runs like new. It has 85,000 on it and this is the first minor tune-up I have given it. We inherited the car with 66,000 on it.
Thanks for your input and help.
igarrett

jlflemmons

I love it when a plan comes together ...

We sometimes talk about how they don't build 'em like they used to. They sure don't. No way a '60's model car would run 85K without a tune up!

backy

If anyone prefers the previous-gen Elantra, especially the hatchback, there are still a few new ones out there. I saw three of them this weekend at Metro Hyundai in Bloomington, MN. They were all loaded with the ABS/roof package: a champagne GLS AT, a blue GLS AT hatch, and a blue GT MT hatch. That blue is a sharp color. Interestingly the GT was a few hundred less than the GLS hatch (which was an AT though). Hyundai really bumped up the price of the GLS hatch at the end it seems.

doohickie

I wish I could snag that blue one. But... I don't need a second Elantra. :P

nihao4587

Hi,

The battery in my remote seems to be wearking out after 5 years. Where can I get new battery for it and do I need to go back to dealer to have the remote with new battery reprogrammed? Thanks in advance.

By the way, my car is 2002 Elantra GT 5-door.

m.

backy

If the car isn't quite five years old and you have less than 60k miles on it, you might be able to get the remote replaced under warranty.

I am pretty sure the dealer has to reprogram it once the battery is replaced, or if they give you a new one. You can get these remotes pretty cheap on eBay if the warranty has expired and they are going to charge too much to fix or replace it.

kev02gt

The alarm remote takes battery type CR2032 available at Radio Shack for five dollars. Pry open remote with screwdriver or penknife and replace- no programing required. There are instructions in the owners manual. I also have a 2002 GT 5-door, with 115K miles, not under warranty.

1racefan

I bought my battery at Wal-Mart (I found it over at the camera section). Just pryed the alarm open with a small screwdriver, and replaced the battery. No reprogramming neccessary.

I have an '02

doohickie

My understanding is that the remote has its code hardwired into it, and the "programming" that is done is on the car side- the ETACS- which stores the code for that remote as a "good one" that the car should respond to. So I bet it is not necessary to reprogram it after replacing the battery. If you do need to program it though, here are a couple links for how to reprogram a 2001-03 Elantra key fob:

Original version (text only)

New version with pictures

nihao4587

Thanks, all your guys.

I inserted a new CR2032 batter and it totally works.

Now, I have another question about brakes. My 02 GT is on the orginal brakes with almost 50,000 miles. I feel it is probably time to change the pads, but I am not sure which is the best option, going back to dealer or a local shop.

I think I can get OEM or original Hyundai parts online and ask local mechanic to install, but does anybody have such experience and how do you like it. Or, I can just lay back and ask dealer to replace them, but I will have to go 60-mile round trip and pay more. So, which way makes more sense based on your experience?

Thanks in advance.

backy

Are you thinking about changing pads because the car has 50,000 miles on it, or because the pads are worn to the point of needing replacement? I am not trying to be a smart-aleck, but the reason I ask is that when my '01 Elantra had 45,000 miles on it, I had the brakes checked (my sister was buying it and wanted good brakes), and there was still lots of life left on both the front and rear brakes. So just because it's got 50k miles on it doesn't necessarily mean it needs new pads.

nj2pa2nc

our 05 gt has the original brakes and it has almost 60,000 miles. We recently had the car in for service and were told the brakes still have plenty of life left. we do mostly highway driving.

doohickie

From what I've heard, the brakes are pretty normal to change out. On the rear discs, the rear discs a special tool is needed to retract the piston, but a lot of other cars use something similar. I would think a local shop could do it.

I think Elantra brakes fall into to camps: For a lot of people they wear evenly and long. For some, they get out of alignment and wear out prematurely. They have that ugly sounding scrape strip, though, so you should know when the brakes need replacing; they'll sound awful!

As for what kind of brakes, I have no clue. On another forum I know that people like to use aftermarket brake pads as an upgrade but I can't remember what they are....

jlflemmons

Oddly enough, on my '05 GT, the rear brakes were down to 20% at 20K. I replaced them with aftermarkets (still organic)and with 24K they still look good. The fronts are the originals with a total of 44K, and they still look to be about 50%.

On the other hand, my '02 GLS would go through a set of front pads every 20K.

Strange. :confuse:

nihao4587

Once again, thanks everyone for your quick responses.

IIRC, my front and rear pads still had 70% and 50% left when I did my 30K service at the dealer. At this moment, I hear the high-pitch brake sounds every morning after I drive out of garage. The noise may last for about 1 or 2 miles and then just go away.

Since I normally don't open windows during driving, I am not so sure if the noise really fades out after the initial driving. I will roll down the window and hear carefully next time I am on the road.

If any of you guys have replaces the brake pads, will you mind giving me an idea on how much I am look at if I replace all four pads at once, dealer or local?

Really appreciate your help. Have a great day.

min

keyser2

My wife had a head-on collision in her 2000 Elantra. The air bags did not deploy. What's up with that? Does anyone keep statistics on that?

jlflemmons

First off, I hope she is okay. Second, at what speed did the accident occur, and third, have you owned the car since new?

If she was traveling fast enough to do serious damage to the car, and you know the history of the car (never been wrecked to deploy bags before) then yes, NHTSA will want to investigate. These are the guys who can initiate a recall for safety issues when the manufacturer doesn't want to. They have the authority over all vehicles sold in the US.

jlflemmons

there are no airbag related recalls on the 2000 Elantra. In fact, there is only one safety recall, and that is associated with the MAP sensor on the engine. Could cause the engine to stall.

While there are some complaints listed over the past few years, none has warranted an investigation. If you go to the NHTSA.gov web site and review the complaints, be aware that not all detail is given, and in some cases the airbags should NOT have deployed, ie "hit a deer".

keyser2

Thanks, she is OK. It was a head-on collision occuring at an intersection. The entire front end was folded in, and the impact was great enough to total the vehicle and cause the drivers side front door to remain sprung. I would think that would be enough to deploy the drivers side airbag at least.

backy

Yes, it would seem so, although it would not take much damage at all to total a 2000 Elantra. Edmunds' TMV for a private party sale of a 2000 Elantra sedan is about $3000. My insurance company will total a car if the damage is more than 70% of its market value, or in this case a bit over $2000.

Front airbags are designed to deploy in moderate to severe frontal collisions at speeds of about 10-15 mph into a fixed object or about 20-30 mph into a similar sized vehicle. So if the collision speed in your wife's case was around 20 mph, the airbags could have been working as designed yet there would have been significant damage to her car. Consider how much damage even a 5 mph frontal impact can cause to a car.

anil111

How can one be sure that compressor of A/C is on when turned on? I know there are atleast 3 things has to happen. Cycling switch, low cutoff switch and the clutch all have to work. But on ellantra a/c is way underand can not c anything. In past when it worked I could here noise, vibrations etc. when the compressor was on. Also lost about 5 MPG in gas when A/C was used.

If the compressor is not on and switches are bad , is there a way to bypass or jump the switches and make comressor run?

thanks for ur replies.

nj2pa2nc

when my daughter totaled her 02 elantra in 04 her air bags DID NOT DEPLOY. she was driving way too fast and failed to negotiate a sharp curve hitting a large tree head-on. she told me her brakes failed but the skid marks were l50 ft. she later admitted she was running late. She was going to college and was in a hurry to get to her job. I was just happy she was ok especially after looking at her car.

bern4

i have a warranty question and I am hope that I am in the right forum. I have a 2003 elantra. great car with 45000 miles on it never had an issue. Now, my seat belts are not rolling up and because of that the seatbealt got stuck in the door and cut out a peace of weaher stripping. The dealer ship will replace the seat belt under warranty and not the weather stripping. I called hundai and they told me that this is a 12/12000 warranty item. I told them that the seat belt caused that problem but they are not willing to replace the stripping. It is disapointing that if you have a problem it is not taking care of. Anyone had a simular issue. Thanks

1racefan

I know there was some discussion earlier as to how long brakes are lasting...

My '02 (automatic) has front discs, rear drums. We got 35,000 out of the first set of front pads, and 33,000 out of the second set of front pads. When they replaced the second set of front pads (at 68,000 miles), they replaced the rear brakes as well, because the rear wheel cylinders were leaking, and I told them to go ahead and do a full rear brake job while they were in there.

Well now, I am on my third set of front brakes (again, they were installed at 68,000 miles), and the car has 91,000 miles (so they have 23,000 miles on them). My mechanic has a pad thickness guage he uses, and when I got my oil changed and tires rotated yesterday, my front pads still show 90% life left...which means I have only used up 10% of the pads over the last 23,000 miles.

This is odd considering my driving habits really haven't changed...if anything, stop and go traffic has gotten worse over the period I have owned the car (as far as I know, the same brand pads have been used since new).

satswac

If your driving environment has you doing more stop and go, that's a good probable cause, but now you say you got 23K mi with only 10% wear? That's really weird.
My 04 Elantra has 50,500 miles on it and I'm still on all original. I travel 84 miles round trip to work and back. Only five lights and I'll cruise at 60 mph all the way, but even back in the days when I lived in NJ (now VA.)and had one of the worse, long commutes in the world, I never had to change brakes as often as you have. You can typically get better after market pads and shoes from NAPA, Advance Auto Parts or other major part stores than what a dealer will give you (so-call original parts) which is not always better, but certainly more exspensive. Look into Midas or one of those other chain repair stores that offer lifetime on the pads and shoes.
Reveiw your driving habits. Reduce hard braking, don't tailgate, slow down grdually. I hope you're not one of those left-footed brakers who keeps their left foot on the brake peddal, right foot onth accelerator and consequently drives with the brake lights on ALL THE TIME.

doohickie

Besides this forum, I post to several other Hyundai forums on the net; one is ElantraXD.com. If you're a member there, please go to this thread:

ElantraXD July Car Of The Month voting

And vote for my car as the ElantraXD July COTM. If you're not already a member, just sign up and vote anyway. ;-)

I didn't think I had a chance; there are some great cars up this month. I'm not a tuner who tries to get every last bit of power from the engine; many of my mods are aimed at improving ride & handling as well as comfort, convenience and style. I think my car is a great example of an Elantra-lover's Elantra.

Through word of mouth I seem to be holding my own, and could even win this thing with a little help.

So please do your part! I really appreciate it!

Thanks,

Paul H.
aka Doohickie

rguedel

Hi all,

I have a '04 Elantra with 38K on it

The cover for my mirror visor just broke off on it's own. Would this be covered under warranty? Or would that have expired at the 36K warranty?

Thanks for your advice.

jlflemmons

Probably will have a lot to do with your dealer. If it were me, I would take the car (and broken piece) to the dealer and just pleasantly ask if it were covered under the 5yr/60k warranty. A good dealer would replace it, even if it weren't under warranty.

Just as a bad service reputation can kill business, good word of mouth is priceless.

newhartford

2003 Elantra GLS 5M with 52K miles on it - mostly short run light traffic driving. Only things I have had to fix are two headlight replacements (under warranty) and taillight, license plate bulb replacements. The driver seat left side bottom moulding broke away from the front screw which I am replacing on my own dime. Still on the original brakes.

My only complaint is a cranky heater floor vent which doesn't put out much heat in the winter.

A lot of trepidation buying a Korean car at the time but no more.

backy

Not sure what you mean by "the 36k warranty." The bumper-to-bumper warranty is 5 years/60k miles. The cover for the visor mirror on the driver's side broke off on my '04 GT awhile back. I don't think it happened on its own; it probably had a little help. Anyway, I told the dealer's service writer about it the next time I brought the car in for its regular maintenance, and they replaced the entire visor with no questions asked.

1racefan

The latch broke on my center console at about 58K. Dealer replaced the cover and latch, no questions asked.

jlflemmons

I warped a rotor on the '05 GT (hard stop, hot rotor+cold standing water= warp)and started to get the Wagner premium pads from the local O'Reilly's that was putting a light cut on the rotors. They didn't look quite the same, cost $30. The clincher was when the counter guy told me they didn't stock semi-metallic for the car, just organic.

Instead, went to the dealer. The pads were about 1/8" thicker than the Wagner, and came with all the clips and parts that Hyundai recommends replacing with the pads. Cost $78! Before I could come down off the ceiling, the lead Hyundai tech whom I've known for years came by to see what I was up to. Told me that without question, the Hyundai pads will outlast the Wagners by more than two to one. Seems Hyundai wants the brakes to last, while Wagner wants to sell brake pads. Hyundai pads had a problem a few years ago with the chatter/squeak pad coming off the backing plate and jamming in the caliper. The Hyundai pads I took off and the new ones both have a different configuration for the chatter/squeak shim. The Wagners had the old style.

Maybe "parts is parts" doesn't hold true, here.

doohickie

I've got just over 30k on my 05 and noticed that the front brakes have plenty left, but the rear brake pads are almost down to the squeelers. I'm trying to figure out which pads to get. Was the $78 for all four wheels, or just two?

jlflemmons

Just the fronts. My rear pads got to the wear indicators at around 20K. All the replacement pads I could find were organic, no semi-metallic.

But the replacement pads (Hyundai) on the rear are wearing much better than the originals.

mantraelantra

Hi. When I rev it up to 3000 rpm in first gear and depress the clutch, the rpm's remain high, sometimes only dropping when I shift into second and engage the clutch, which forces the revs down. It only does this between first and second. In any other gear, it drops quickly after depressing the clutch. I had the service manager at the dealer go for a ride with me this morning, and he says the computer is doing exactly what it is supposed to, keeping the revs high to avoid a spike in emissions. He suggested short shifting, but doing so lugs the engine in second. I don't want to burn out the clutch and/or transmission prematurely by shifting with the revs high. Any ideas out there?

jlflemmons

Tell the manager to try again. I believe there has been a service bulletin issued on this that requires a simple reprogramming of the engine control computer.

Doohickie, do you remember reading about this?

doohickie

All the information agrees with what I've heard. Here is a link to a post by Kiapet on Kia-forums.com where he made a mod to correct the hanging revs (the Spectra has the same 2.0 liter Beta II engine as the Elantra).

Here's a wider angle pic of my car showing the location of the part he modded:

nvbanker

A lot of trepidation buying a Korean car at the time but no more.

I also am a slow learner, or a skeptic. But I have concluded after buying and delivering a variety of Sonatas and Elantras, that Hyundai is probably making the best Sedans for the money on the planet right now. They're not quite as good as
Toyotas, but they cost less, and they are better than the Domestics now. So - until either they become as expensive as Toyotas, or lose their quality - they're hard to beat.

backy

Edmunds.com has named the 2001-2005 Elantra the Best Bet for a used compact car. They've liked it from the beginning, so this is not a surprise. I remember they said in one of their reviews of the '01 Elantra, something like, if the Elantra holds up, there won't be any reason to buy a Japanese compact. Looks like it's held up. My sister, who now owns my '01 GLS which turns 7 in October, reports it's running great, no problems for her. It gave me excellent service also. My '04 GT has been nearly perfect, and still looks and drives like new (just washed it, going to wax it today). If the side crash protection were better, I would seriously consider getting another Elantra from this generation, e.g. a '05 or '06 MT GLS sedan or hatch with the ABS + moonroof package.

http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/bestbet/articles/index.html#csedan

1racefan

I agree - just turned 94,000 miles on my '02 GLS Automatic.

Only issue at all is that after the car has sat for 8+ hours (and it is hot outside), when you first start the car, put it in gear, and hit the gas, there is a hesitation that lasts about a second. After this initial hesitation, the car drives fine for the rest of the time, until it sits again for a long period. I think it is the throttle position sensor.

We just bought a new car, and would have considered a new Elantra, but we just don't like the looks of the exterior of the new design - so we bought a Lancer instead. I am going to keep the Elantra to see just how long it will go, being properly maintained, before it dies.

newhartford

And even better the dealer relented and replaced the driver seat moulding under warranty.

nickimom

I have a 2004 Elantra GT hatchback that has consistently registered 29.8 mpg. It pretty much stayed the same until Friday morning. As I was driving from my house, I had the mpg showing vs. the trip meter, and it was wildly fluctuating, from 23.2 mpg to 23.4, .4, up and down. I stopped and tightened the fuel cap. It has been fluctuating since then when I drive. It has NEVER done this before.
I was at about 69980 miles on Friday, and I am past 70K as of today. Why does it fluctuate so much, literally saying in one trip to a store a mile away from home that I am getting anywhere from 22.4 to 26.3 mpg or something like that. I got gas Thursday at the same place I almost always get gas, and nothing different happened. Que pasa? :confuse:

jlflemmons

If you reset the mpg on the trip computer, it will vary wildly until you get down to about 3/4 of a tank. Is is possible you inadvertently reset the trip computer? Mine will swing all over the place when accelerating, but after about a 1/4 tank it doesn't fluctuate as much. If you do not reset the gauge, after several tanks of gas you will see only very gradual changes in the reading.

nickimom

thanks. I really don't think I reset it but....ok this may be a stupid question, possibly related. I'm a crossing guard, and I sit in the car or stand outside and listen to the radio w/ windows down for about 45 minutes. Recently - 1 day last week, it was hard to start after that time period, engine faltered b4 turning over, and today everything reset - mpg, time and radio stations. Does this actually drain battery that badly? I did it for the month b4 school ended earlier this year w/ no problems. I only have it on so radio comes on no lights or anything. As I said this could be obvious and stupid, but the only reall stupid question is the one you should have asked rather than messing up your car! :confuse: Tanya

nvbanker

Normally, your battery should be able to handle that usage without a problem, so your battery is getting weak, and should be replaced. It'll fail completely in a couple of months anyway even if you don't listen to the radio anymore. Get a new one. Not that expensive, and it's old enough to fail now.

That battery drain is what reset your MPG readout, and is why your are getting fluctuation. It'll happen again when you change the battery. Don't worry about it.

jlflemmons

Check with your dealer. My '05 had a battery croak at 18mos. Dealer replaced it free as there was an issue with the supplier of the battery. Mine had a cell going out, and after running the radio for 15mins with the park lights on, the car wouldn't crank.

nickimom

re checking w/dealer - I got car in June '04, and I have 70,095 miles as of a few minutes ago - would it still be worth it to check re: battery, or just replace?
Also, any recommendations on battery brand/type would be appreciated.

doohickie

It wouldn't hurt to check with the dealer but I think the warranty on the battery is 2 years. I had mine replaced after 10 months; the replacement has been fine.