Don't Buy a Cobalt

tqdizzletqdizzle Member Posts: 4
edited September 2014 in Chevrolet
I made that mistake and it has been problems since. Power Steering out at 41,000 and Fuel pump out at 50,000. Piece of junk. The rest of my problems are detailed here:


  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    What year?

    Sounds like you bought it used. Never know what you'll get if that's the case.

    While they had some issues the first 2 years, I've seen very few issues since and yes I work on cars every day and have since the late 60s.

    I own a 07 and 09 and am considering a third before they phase it out.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,743
    Sounds like you didn't buy an extended warrant when you bought it new or before the 3 year/36000 mile or 4-year/48000 mile warranty expired. Then you wouldn't be complaining.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tqdizzletqdizzle Member Posts: 4
    The dealership would not sell me an extended warranty when I purchased it. Even so, the power steering going out at 41,000 is ridiculous. That is a testament to the quality of product that Chevy makes.
  • tqdizzletqdizzle Member Posts: 4
    As long as Chevy continues to use electronic power steering modules before they have them fully tested, then you are playing with fire with the cobalt. Just google "Cobalt Power Steering" there are tons of pages detailing the problem and its frequency.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,743
    Did you buy the car new? Certified used?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    I have no issues what so ever with GM's electrical steering. In fact, as hinted at earlier, I have a much wider understanding of these issues than most.

    With nearly 40 years in the service bays, I've yet to see any manufacturer not have some issues. Odds are some abuse was in play here too.

    A warranty is a contract, nothing more. Most if put in the same position would do the same if asked to warrant something past the contracts terms.

    Cobalt #3 is coming to a new home in Feb.
  • tqdizzletqdizzle Member Posts: 4
    I bought it certified used, with 31,000 miles, one previous owner and a clean history.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,743
    Then the warranty went to 48,000. However you could have bought a 7 year and 100000 mile warranty or some other combinations before the original 3 year, 36000 miles warranty expired. You can buy those from GM dealers selling them. Look for GMPP warranty on the internet. One is Black in Pennsylvania, IIRC>

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    Now we finally get some needed info. If that is the case and you have all required documentation you could have a case. Like I said, a warranty is nothing more than a contract.

    Many times I've had people with issues that didn't fall within the parameters of the contract. If they are nice I've gone out of my way to try and help and in many cases I've had the shop do the work at a discount to cover costs only. Those that are rude get nothing extra.

    Bottom line be nice and make sure your documentation is in order. Even if your documentation is in order and the dealer won't help then go to corporate. No response there contact your states AG office and the BBB.

  • jhurt612jhurt612 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2006 chevy cobalt 20,000 miles, last year and have had nothing but problems with it. It first started with, just a week after I had it, both of my head lights blowing at the same time. That is really no big deal. It happens. But then, I started having the problems with the key getting stuck. My friend at the dealership cleaned the shifter and put something in the switch and I haven't had anymore problems with that. But, then the steering column went up. I had that fix. Then the car started stalling and I lost reverse. (transmission) I haven't taken it to the shop yet. Not quite sure if I still want the car. It has been nothing but trouble and I've only had it for a year...
  • nevbc73annevbc73an Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    In a way I know what you mean. For I to have purchased a Cobalt that is a big problem child. It has all the warrantys but how many time dose one need to use them.
    It was a pre-owned so I got someone else problems. The one I have is a 2009 LT and at time of purchase only had 19700.
    By 20000 the steering shaft had snaped, by 20090 a problem with the airbag light, by 20100 relized was only getting 16 MPG. By 20200 had exhaust fumes coming in when I would use heater,by 22240 all lights would turn off and then come back on when ever I would hit a bump in the road.
    The car has been back many times and will keep going back until the problem is fixed.
    I like the Cobalt very much I just don't like all the problems.
    Today it went back once againg for the exhaust fumes and this time another bandage was placed on the problem by drilling holes in the heater and installing deoderizer.
    Well if you can not fix the problem cover it up.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    From your post I would conclude the service department is as defective or more defective than the problems on your Cobalt.

    Consider a different dealer.
  • nevbc73annevbc73an Member Posts: 2
    That is the second dealer.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    The only problem I've had with my 09 (bought it in Sept 08 and it has 13,000 miles on it now) has been a door rattle and noisy steering when going over bumps. GM replaced something twice in the electric steering and it is ok so far. It is an 1LT Coupe and gets 36-42 mpg on the road and around 23-25 in town.
  • octavianoctavian Member Posts: 1
    I hate machines beeping at me, so obviously my cobalt security system has got to go. Using the manual you can play around with it but nothing serious.
    To be clear I don't want to hear my horn unless I press the horn button on the steering wheel.
  • crvdude1crvdude1 Member Posts: 47
    "Today it went back once again for the exhaust fumes and this time another bandage was placed on the problem by drilling holes in the heater and installing deodorizer. "

    Seriously? The carbon monoxide will kill you.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    I just went in for the power steering motor recall. I haven't had other problems except for two steering columns. I have 16,800 miles on my 09 and will buy a GM Protection Plan that will cover me for 6 years and 60,000 miles then I'll get rid of the car. I can't afford $800 for a steering column out of warranty or the other things people have written about. I wanted a neat looking inexpensive coupe that got good gas mileage and got one but perhaps I should have bought a Hyundai or Nissan Altima. Has anybody bought a Cobalt and had good luck with it reliability-wise?
  • jenndollins23jenndollins23 Member Posts: 3
    2008 Chevy Cobalt 73,000 miles

    Does or has any one else experienced these problems?

    Previous problems that I have had resolved already:
    1.Front passenger window sounded like it was letting air in and made a whistling sound while driving down the road. Well, after going into the shop 3 times the issue was finally fixed.
    2.Key kept getting stuck in the ignition. Took it in and they had to replace the gearbox. Took one time to figure out the issue and get it fixed.

    Current problems:
    1.Info button on steering wheel does not work when my headlights are on.
    2.When I am turning the volume up or down on the steering wheel sometimes it will change the radio channel.
    3.Unlocks and locks it self while being turned off and parked.
    4.At a steady speed driving down the road it while just down shift.
    5.Both mirrors on my sun visor the clips broke. I was not over using them either.
    6.Transmission jerks when it shifts between 30-55 mph.
    7.The clips on my mirrors on sun visor broke. I did not over use them.
    8.No for sure, how long this issue has been happening just made aware of it today. When I pulled up to park at work a bunch of employees were setting at the break tables in front of me. I got out of my car and they said, “There is something wrong with your car, when you turn it off it let out a big cloud of smoke!” I was in shock it was not over heating nor is any of my fluids low.

    I suppose I need to take it in the shop but it is so frustrating trying to find a vehicle to borrow to drive while mine is in the shop. In addition, they always say uhhh we could not get it to do any of those things. Now after reading all of these posts and doing research this scares me.
  • sharkman1sharkman1 Member Posts: 19
    4 & 6 could be the transmission control module. If the car acts like it doesn't know which gear to be in. Good luck.
  • jenndollins23jenndollins23 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. It is an automatic though does that make any difference.

    I also for got to mention that when I go to take off it is very hesitant and seems like it doesn't want to go or cannot pull its self.
  • gmcbuicktechgmcbuicktech Member Posts: 2
    i have 07 cobalt 42,000 miles i work at gm dealer and master certified gm and ase technician.mine is great no problems so far 30plus mpg interstate 27-29 normal roads. make sure the service department being used cares about wat they do to your car. that makes a big difference in return problems. maintenance is the most important and it really is a cheap car compared to other cars in its class,if u treat ur car bad it,ll leave u hangin, talk to the tech workin on your car {dont act like u know everything)thats the worst thing u can do to a service tech. make sure ur complaint is understood and figure out if he likes what he does for aliving if hes only fixing your car for a paycheck better off finding you a differnt place to take it. that makes a big differnce in the dependability of your car or any car
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    The seat on my 09 Coupe LT is now starting to wear and pill again. It has already been recovered with original fabric under warranty. Has anyone else had this seat wear problem. The car only has 16k miles on it and I wear normal clothes.
  • chuck2011chuck2011 Member Posts: 19
    Stick with a Honda or a cannot go wrong with either. After all these years GM still cannot deliver a competent small car that will last...what the heck is going on?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,743
    edited October 2010
    >GM still cannot deliver a competent small car that will last

    I see.

    So they should buy a Corolla with steering problems? Really cheap interior? Odd placement of the steering wheel relative to the seat?

    Or should they buy a Civic with the engine block leaks? And other problems known on the various discussion groups for both cars. The regulars respond with "Oh, yeah. That's a known problem"?

    It's nice that you love your Honda. All cars have some problems sometimes the owners cause the problems in various ways.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • willz7565willz7565 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new 2007 cobalt before starting college because I wanted something dependable and good on gas. All was good until at about 50,000 miles I kept hearing a clunk coming from the front of the car when I hit speed bumps. Turns out its the front control arm bushings, and stabalizer bar. Turns out this is a VERY common problem with Cobalts but there will not be a recall because its not a safety issue. Try to be a good American and buy Domestic = Screwed!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Recalls are not formed based on if they are safety issues. GM monitors the complaints from customers to customer assistance. This is how they discover widespread problems. I am unsure of how common this problem is or what is the cause of it. The service department at your dealer would be a good resource for this information.
    GM Customer Service
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    edited March 2011
    I've had my 2009 coupe into the dealer twice for this rattling or buzzing noise inside the driver's door when on a macadam surface. I'm about to try and take the door panel off and jam insulation material inside. Does anyone know how the door panel comes off? It looks different than the ones that use the removal tool to pull out the plastic pieces that hold the panel on. Do I use a flat putty knife?
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