This is not entirely true anymore. For many years auto manufacturers have been gearing their cars higher and higher as both speed limits rise, and average actual driving speeds. Peak mileage will occur at peak torque intersect with lowest horsepower. There are several cars that get better mileage at 65 to 70 than they do at 50 to 55 because the car is not generating enough torque at such a low rpm to sustain the speed without downshifting.
the best advice is to leave your nice, new Accord alone. None of the changes you're thinking of making will do anything to make the car better and will likely create problems. Enjoy your new car and resist the temptation to louse it up ---
This isn't exactly on the mark, and your comments are fairly prejudicial. If you read the original post, you will see that he wanting to purchase factory Honda wheels, the EP-R5, which is an option on the EX-V6.
As such, it not only WILL make the car better (to look at), but it will also NOT create any problems, nor "louse it up" anymore than if it arrived from the factory that way. Making slight changes to cars, especially using oem parts designed for the car does not hurt or louse it up at all. If that were true, then there would be only 1 trim level available for all cars without rim options or anything else for that matter.
One reason why your comment bothers me so much is because I too am looking to do a slight tire mod to my 05 EX-L. The Michelins that come on it suck. I have already had to replace one due to what I consider a defect but the dealer didn't agree on. They are also horribly noisy and I can't say much for them in the rain. I need to get rid of them prior to winter.
I have had great luck in the past with Goodyear Regatta 2's, and would like to put them on the Honda, however - their narrowest 16 inch 60 series is a 215, and the OEM tires are 205. Can I go to a 215 without anything rubbing when turned lock to lock? I was able to do this on my Lincoln in going from a 215 to a 225...
The regattas are also a T rated tire vs. a V rated, but I am not planning on driving it 120+ mph anyhow, and as far as I am concerned, the ride is a little too stiff anyway.
Anyone done any tire mods on 2003 or newer?
Dutch - I cannot find the information online - do the 17inch rims come loaded with 215's and not 205's?
I am interested to get your feedback on this 2001 Accord EX that has only 51 miles on it. The dealer selling the vehicle just bought it on auction from American Honda Motor Company, and apparently it was a showroom vehicle.
It seems to me that the car would have only be in the showroom during the year it first came out. Do you have any idea where the car could have been for several years between now and then?
Isn't the TSX geared a lot shorter than the regular Accord. I know our 04 Accord EX-L cruises 75 mph at 3000 rpm or so. Gets mileage in the mid 30's too. Considering there are people out there driving Hummers and suck that can barely got out of the single digits, Accord owners should be able to go top speed without any guilt of harming the environment or wasting resources.
If it was owned by Honda, it sat on their showroom, and now this dealer is selling it, why is the car listed as "used". I would think that since it came from Honda, it would have been treated as any other new car from a manufacturer?
they say they bought it directly from Honda. But they couldn't buy it from American Honda .. they would've had to "buy" it from a dealer.
A couple of things strike me as odd about the car. The paint doesn't look as shiny as I would expect a car would look if it were inside a showroom and the rear tail light is cracked..... However, looks like the Carfax is clean .... I don't know .... You don't really "know" what you are getting with any used car. If it checks out in person then I guess it would be worth it ...
I upgraded my 03 coupe's 16" to 17" Acura TSX rims (Honda center caps) with 215/50/17 tires with no problems whatsoever due to the TSX's rims being exactly on-spec with either the 16" or 17" (6-speed) rims of the Gen 7 Accord.
Let me re-post factory specs: +55 mm offset, 17 x 7 or 16 x 16.5.
Odo and speedo error is virtually nil: based on revolution/mile of 816 for the 215/50/17 vs 813 for the factory 205/60/16, the 215/50/17 is just 0.36% smaller, translating to odo error of 36 miles/10,000 miles or 69.75 mph vs 70.0 mph (ref for rev/mile: Tirerack.com).
On the EP-R5 17" rim, this is a lightweight Honda HFP (Honda Factory Performance) wheel originally designed for the Gen 7 Accord. On top of looking good, it reduces "unsprung weight" for improved handling and longer suspension life. Highly recommended.
Yes, the lens is cracked. Probably a lens is $150 or more. And, it looks like the bumper just under the cracked lens might have a 'dimple' in it. This thing has been backed into a pole.
It didn't sell at $16,400. Has a BuyItNow of $17,900. Looks like they are wanting low-milage addon retail out of this 4-year old, almost 5 year old car.
Why would Honda keep a car sitting around for 4 years?
I think Grandma bought this new, drove it home, had a mild stroke, and stopped driving. It's been sitting in her garage all this time and she died earlier this year. The trust department of her bank is closing out her affairs, which included selling the car. MJB Autos picked it up from the bank.
Can someone run a Carfax and see if it had a previous registered owner?
What's strange also is that the MJB Motors has 30 or so car pics in their other items for sale, but each one is photographed in an empty parking lot of a ???business???. wouldn't a car sales with that many cars in inventory have pictures with cars in the background?
Did anyone check their sales record from the comments on the selling location?
Look at the first picture with the rim - there are marks on the lip... either from an old weight, curb check or who knows what. If like others suspect - it has been wrecked, then maybe that is a salvaged rim or something from another car. Regardless of miles, the price is a little high for that year, and there is no warranty left from the factory. Run the VIN through carfax and see what pops up - i am betting this car has a history.
I did. They are batting 100% with over 400 reviews, and 0 negatives in the last 12 months. Oddly enough, all their past sales which still have pix were shot in the same lot with the same background. They have everything from Mercedes to Dodge to GM, and at fairly decent prices for the most part.
Thanks to everyone for your responses. Here is the story on this vehicle. The Carfax reports shows that the dealer, MJB Auto Sales, bought the vehicle on 6/4/05 at an auto auction and that it was purchased from the manufacturer. The report is completely clean for this car.
I talked to someone at MJB and he confirmed that he bought it directly from the manufacturer and that it was never at a car dealership. The way he described it, the car is not really a showroom vehicle and it is not a research vehicle. He said that the manufacturer keeps a sample car for each model year, maybe to show off to the executives and other people who visit the site. I'm not sure why the manufacturer would decide to sell one of these vehicles, but I am still hoping to get this information from MJB. The car sounds legit to me, and as was mentioned before MJB does have an excellent reputation on Ebay with over 400 transactions.
Looking at accord 2005 LX, either manual or auto-unsure as of yet. Could some of you post what kind of MPG you are getting for the 4 cyl. either 5 spd or auto? Thanks!
I have an EX-L, 05, 4cyl. When it is cool enough out, I drive with all windows down and the roof open, even at interstate speeds - however lately I have been running the AC a lot. Averaging 30 to 32 mixed driving city/interstate.
I have 2005 Accord LX-4 and I measured both highway and suburban (not downtown of big city with lights every 200 yards but still a lot of brakes applied and frequent stops) MPG numbers - they are (approx.) 32.5 and 26
In post #17560, regarding actual mileage, you wrote "When it is cool enough out, I drive with all windows down and the roof open, even at interstate speeds". With today's modern automobile air conditioning, using it with the windows closed, is probably about as fuel efficient as not using it with all of the windows and roof open. The problem with all those openings is that you reduce the windtunnel-designed and tested aerodynamics Coefficient of Drag (Cd) of your vehicle. (Sorry, but the d in Cd should have been in subscript, but that can't be done in these forums.)
From another website:
About 60% of the power required to cruise at highway speeds is taken up overcoming air drag, and this increases exponentially with high speed. Therefore, a vehicle with substantially better aerodynamics will be much more fuel efficient.
I know. That was the point of mentioning "windows down at interstate speed"... because I know it tears up the airflow and impacts the mileage. However, even with that in mind, I am still getting stellar mileage. I just happen to also like fresh air.
I apologize ahead if this is the wrong forum, but something bugs me a lot about Accord.Recently i drove 05 EX V6 and i love the car (my wife dont- rear end is ugly, i hope facelift one will come soon enough). What really bothered me was average audio performance and no possibility to get better one if i would be wiling to pay extra. I tried systems in Nissan Maxima and Mazda6 (both Bose), and they sounded great- is this Hondas way separating Acura from Honda or? I tried TSX's stereo too, and that thing was miles ahead of Accords..
Ok, I'll take that into consideration. Thanks for the quick replys. It's just that I wanted to make my car "different" from all the other 4 door silver sedans on the road.
I had read my accord has a timing chain and I have read I have a timing belt. My dealer says I need to replace it at 90,000 and I should also replace the water pump because it is included in the labor.
Does anyone know if I have a timing belt or chain? Does it need to be replaced at 90,000 miles?
Here in SE VA, it has been blistering hot -- heat index over 100. I discovered today that after using the AC to break the heat, I could continue to get some cool air without the AC when using the upper vents and front window defrost button. It almost feels like AC, but the AC button is off. It is noticable cooler than when vented without the defrost vent. I wonder if the direction of the defrost vent make the difference. Do not let the heat get to you. Happy Hondaring, John
Not sure about your car, but in some cars the A/C switches on when the defroster is on. Often in cold weather when the air is dry and people enter a cold vehicle, the windows fog up from the moist air exhaled by the people in the car.
The A/C dries the incoming air which is also heated if the temperature control is turned up. So, hot, DRY air blows from the vents when the heater AND the A/C are both on together and the dry air quickly evaporates condensation from the inside of the windows.
Another reason for having the A/C on when the defroster is on is that the defroster is most often used in the winter when most people don't need A/C. But if the A/C isn't used for several months, the seals can dry out resulting in refrigerant loss from leaking.
I had an '85 Pontiac Sunbird that automatically turned on the A/C when I used the defroster. Maybe your car is programed to do the same.............Richard
I think almost ALL cars run the air conditioner when the controls are in defrost mode. So, you are running the air conditioner compressor. If you are trying to get better gasoline milage by not running the AC, but are running the defroster - it isn't happening.
It states in the owners manual: "When you select defrost mode the system automatically switches to fresh air mode and turns on the A/C. In this mode the A/C stays on with the indicator off."
Looking through some dealers' online inventories, they list both EX and EXL models. I see no reference to EXL's on either Honda's site or Edmunds. What's the difference?
Oh, is that all? I mean, I've been looking at V6 EX's, all of which are supposed to come standard with leather seats, XM radio, etc. So I don't understand why some listings show EX-V6 and EXL-V6. Seems redundant.
Hi, I just got a new 05 Accord LX auto this month. I never purchased a car within warranty before, so have some questions about the maintenance service at the dealer.
1) Are all costs are covered under the warranty except for oil changes and break pad? How about the labor for routine inspections?
2) What normally you paid for maintenance services if the car is still under the warranty?
3) Is there anywhere I can find a recommended price for each maintenance schedule, so I would know whether the dealer overcharges me.
4) The manual recommends changing oil every 10,000 mile which I think it’s too long. I plan to have oil change at 5,000 / 15,000/ 25,000 at a franchise shop if it’s significantly cheaper than did by the dealer. What do you think?
Sorry for having many questions, but would be very appreciate your answer. Thanks
1) Are all costs are covered under the warranty except for oil changes and break pad? How about the labor for routine inspections?
No. The warranty covers only defects. You will pay for all maintenance and inspections.
2) What normally you paid for maintenance services if the car is still under the warranty?
3) Is there anywhere I can find a recommended price for each maintenance schedule, so I would know whether the dealer overcharges me.
Edmund's has a nice maintenance cost guide. Go here: Maintenance Guide
4) The manual recommends changing oil every 10,000 mile which I think it’s too long. I plan to have oil change at 5,000 / 15,000/ 25,000 at a franchise shop if it’s significantly cheaper than did by the dealer. What do you think?
My Honda dealer charges less than the franchise shops and going there for regular maintenance has gotten me some freebies wrt to repairs.
i've been recently quoted a price of $600+ to have my timing belt and water pump replaced with factory parts from a mechanic. Is this a fair price? What does a Dealer usually charge for this service?
I had the Skyfi2 satellite radio installed in my car yesterday. I love the radio but the speakers sound really bad. I want to replace the speakers. My question is should I replace the radio too? What will give me the best sound in my car. The radio is the one that came in the car. Also what are some good brands of radio and speakers. Do I need to replace both>
i got a honda accord with an honda navigation system, but i know nothing about how 2 use it since the manual is in japanesse i think, does it work only with the cdrom data ? what the pc-card is for?... i d appreaciate any help
Comments
the best advice is to leave your nice, new Accord alone.
None of the changes you're thinking of making will do anything to make the car better and will likely create problems.
Enjoy your new car and resist the temptation to louse it up
---
This isn't exactly on the mark, and your comments are fairly prejudicial. If you read the original post, you will see that he wanting to purchase factory Honda wheels, the EP-R5, which is an option on the EX-V6.
As such, it not only WILL make the car better (to look at), but it will also NOT create any problems, nor "louse it up" anymore than if it arrived from the factory that way. Making slight changes to cars, especially using oem parts designed for the car does not hurt or louse it up at all. If that were true, then there would be only 1 trim level available for all cars without rim options or anything else for that matter.
One reason why your comment bothers me so much is because I too am looking to do a slight tire mod to my 05 EX-L. The Michelins that come on it suck. I have already had to replace one due to what I consider a defect but the dealer didn't agree on. They are also horribly noisy and I can't say much for them in the rain. I need to get rid of them prior to winter.
I have had great luck in the past with Goodyear Regatta 2's, and would like to put them on the Honda, however - their narrowest 16 inch 60 series is a 215, and the OEM tires are 205. Can I go to a 215 without anything rubbing when turned lock to lock? I was able to do this on my Lincoln in going from a 215 to a 225...
The regattas are also a T rated tire vs. a V rated, but I am not planning on driving it 120+ mph anyhow, and as far as I am concerned, the ride is a little too stiff anyway.
Anyone done any tire mods on 2003 or newer?
Dutch - I cannot find the information online - do the 17inch rims come loaded with 215's and not 205's?
A person on another site did a very intensive and precise milage test of an Acura TSX 6MT. The results were:
80kph (50mph) 41.8 MPG
90kph (56mph) 42.8 MPG, using 87 octane test yielded 38.1 MPG
100kph (62mph) 38.7 MPG
I'd venture to guess that most cars behave the same way.
The gas milage on my Accord LX is certainly better at 60 than at 70.
It seems to me that the car would have only be in the showroom during the year it first came out. Do you have any idea where the car could have been for several years between now and then?
Also, if the car hasn't been driven for 4 years, the A/C seals could be dried and leaking which would require an expensive repair.
The price is getting too close to that of a new Civic or other more believable car, IMO.
If it was owned by Honda, it sat on their showroom, and now this dealer is selling it, why is the car listed as "used". I would think that since it came from Honda, it would have been treated as any other new car from a manufacturer?
Mrbill
A couple of things strike me as odd about the car. The paint doesn't look as shiny as I would expect a car would look if it were inside a showroom and the rear tail light is cracked..... However, looks like the Carfax is clean .... I don't know .... You don't really "know" what you are getting with any used car. If it checks out in person then I guess it would be worth it ...
Let me re-post factory specs: +55 mm offset, 17 x 7 or 16 x 16.5.
Odo and speedo error is virtually nil: based on revolution/mile of 816 for the 215/50/17 vs 813 for the factory 205/60/16, the 215/50/17 is just 0.36% smaller, translating to odo error of 36 miles/10,000 miles or 69.75 mph vs 70.0 mph (ref for rev/mile: Tirerack.com).
On the EP-R5 17" rim, this is a lightweight Honda HFP (Honda Factory Performance) wheel originally designed for the Gen 7 Accord. On top of looking good, it reduces "unsprung weight" for improved handling and longer suspension life. Highly recommended.
Hope this helps...
It didn't sell at $16,400. Has a BuyItNow of $17,900. Looks like they are wanting low-milage addon retail out of this 4-year old, almost 5 year old car.
Why would Honda keep a car sitting around for 4 years?
I think Grandma bought this new, drove it home, had a mild stroke, and stopped driving. It's been sitting in her garage all this time and she died earlier this year. The trust department of her bank is closing out her affairs, which included selling the car. MJB Autos picked it up from the bank.
Can someone run a Carfax and see if it had a previous registered owner?
What's strange also is that the MJB Motors has 30 or so car pics in their other items for sale, but each one is photographed in an empty parking lot of a ???business???. wouldn't a car sales with that many cars in inventory have pictures with cars in the background?
Did anyone check their sales record from the comments on the selling location?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I talked to someone at MJB and he confirmed that he bought it directly from the manufacturer and that it was never at a car dealership. The way he described it, the car is not really a showroom vehicle and it is not a research vehicle. He said that the manufacturer keeps a sample car for each model year, maybe to show off to the executives and other people who visit the site. I'm not sure why the manufacturer would decide to sell one of these vehicles, but I am still hoping to get this information from MJB. The car sounds legit to me, and as was mentioned before MJB does have an excellent reputation on Ebay with over 400 transactions.
22.4 city
33.2 highway
Average per fill up has been 24 to 28 MPG.
Anyone who wants to comment on that article should post in reply to the message at this link instead of replying here: choe13, "Midsize Import Sedans Comparison Thread" #88, 14 Jul 2005 7:42 pm
Thanks!
In post #17560, regarding actual mileage, you wrote "When it is cool enough out, I drive with all windows down and the roof open, even at interstate speeds". With today's modern automobile air conditioning, using it with the windows closed, is probably about as fuel efficient as not using it with all of the windows and roof open. The problem with all those openings is that you reduce the windtunnel-designed and tested aerodynamics Coefficient of Drag (Cd) of your vehicle. (Sorry, but the d in Cd should have been in subscript, but that can't be done in these forums.)
From another website:
About 60% of the power required to cruise at highway speeds is taken up overcoming air drag, and this increases exponentially with high speed. Therefore, a vehicle with substantially better aerodynamics will be much more fuel efficient.
Does anyone know if I have a timing belt or chain? Does it need to be replaced at 90,000 miles?
You can take your chance to 110K.
Do not let the heat get to you.
Happy Hondaring, John
The A/C dries the incoming air which is also heated if the temperature control is turned up. So, hot, DRY air blows from the vents when the heater AND the A/C are both on together and the dry air quickly evaporates condensation from the inside of the windows.
Another reason for having the A/C on when the defroster is on is that the defroster is most often used in the winter when most people don't need A/C. But if the A/C isn't used for several months, the seals can dry out resulting in refrigerant loss from leaking.
I had an '85 Pontiac Sunbird that automatically turned on the A/C when I used the defroster. Maybe your car is programed to do the same.............Richard
There are all kinds of interesting and informative things in those manuals.
Thanks.
-cb
Owner of a new Honda Accord I-4 EX-L
Thanks.
-cb
1) Are all costs are covered under the warranty except for oil changes and break pad? How about the labor for routine inspections?
2) What normally you paid for maintenance services if the car is still under the warranty?
3) Is there anywhere I can find a recommended price for each maintenance schedule, so I would know whether the dealer overcharges me.
4) The manual recommends changing oil every 10,000 mile which I think it’s too long. I plan to have oil change at 5,000 / 15,000/ 25,000 at a franchise shop if it’s significantly cheaper than did by the dealer. What do you think?
Sorry for having many questions, but would be very appreciate your answer. Thanks
No. The warranty covers only defects. You will pay for all maintenance and inspections.
2) What normally you paid for maintenance services if the car is still under the warranty?
3) Is there anywhere I can find a recommended price for each maintenance schedule, so I would know whether the dealer overcharges me.
Edmund's has a nice maintenance cost guide. Go here: Maintenance Guide
4) The manual recommends changing oil every 10,000 mile which I think it’s too long. I plan to have oil change at 5,000 / 15,000/ 25,000 at a franchise shop if it’s significantly cheaper than did by the dealer. What do you think?
My Honda dealer charges less than the franchise shops and going there for regular maintenance has gotten me some freebies wrt to repairs.
Good Luck.
Thanks.
3/4 x 1/2 = 3/8
That's about where my 2002 EX V6 runs. Just under half gauge.