Older Honda Accords

piloti_sti

Thanks, that is the one concern, does the interior look much worse than an EX? Seems hard to find pics, on Honda.com they only show pics of fully optioned EX-L with navi etc.

Test drove TL the other day and loved it, would love to think that the power in the V6 Accord feels similar.

mrbill1957

There are places on the web that repair CD changers.

As an example:

http://www.carstereohelp.com/

Mrbill

glennglenn

I too am in the market for a 2007 SE V-6 Accord. I like the Nighthawk Black BUT will also miss the heated mirrors (a must in Chicago's winters); I drove one and it felt quicker than the 2006 EX V6 my friend has (lighter by about 100 lbs I guess???) For about 21 K, its the best deal on the market right now. Grand Honda in Elmhurst is advertising them for 21 K plus tax title license BUT the price includes shipping.

piloti_sti

I wonder if that kind of deal can be had on a lease? As far as the $21k purchase price.

canddmeyer

I never looked at an EX or EX-L. Cloth seating is our preference, and my head rests against a sunroof. If you wait long enuf, the EX or EX-L will eventually have a lease or APR offer. Just the same, happy shopping.

piloti_sti

Well I got this quote and am curious if I can do a lot better. Anyone?
2007 Honda Accord SEV6
36 months @ 12,000 miles per year
with $1,000 down
$299 + tax
selling price- $21,900
residual- $14,455
money factor- .00220

elroy5

I would not call it a great deal. But it would probably cost you less than buying a car, and trading it in after only 3 years. Some people would have a problem with the 12,000 miles per year. What happens if you go over? Find out how much extra this would cost you.

piloti_sti

It is .15 cents per mile over 12k/yr. I don't think I will have a problem but will see how much more it is per month for 15k.

Do you think the purchase price should be lower?
Thanks

elroy5

If you want to buy the car, buy it. Leasing, then buying, doesn't look like a good deal. The residual is usually more than the car is worth, at the end of the lease. You would pay a little less for the first 3 years, but a lot more after that.

If you normally buy a car, then trade it in every 3 years, leasing payments are usually cheaper than purchase payments. It is the only situation that I think you come out ahead by leasing.

tom83

I am looking for help for a noise coming from the left/driver's side of the engine compartment. Most of the time (but especially after the car has sat for awhile and cooled!)when accelerating (slowly or quickly)there is a distinct clicking/rattling/low quality racket coming from the left side of the engine. I don't know if it's a valve or solenoid or what but it makes the engine sound as though it has 100,000= miles on it. The dealer says they cannot hear it and/or all 4 cyl. Accords make this sound but mine is so clearly distinct and unpleasant. I drove similar cars at another Honda dealer and they did not have the noise. It's bad enough to ruin my otherwise good feelings about this car. I have 6,300 miles on it and have noticed the noise from 500 miles to current. I have had one oil change at 5300 miles. Owners, what can you tell me? Many thanks in advance.

blackexv6

Does the noise occur once from a cold start or is it a constant noise?

Are you sure it is not the ABS self test? If it makes a grinding noise at 5 mph problem solved.

colonel35

I'm not sure if this is equivalent, but Honda's running a lease special on the V6 SE right now:

$249/mo with $1055 CCR ($1900 down total), 36@12k, resulting in a net capitalized cost of $20,941">link title and a residual of $14,907.

Honda website

tom83

It occurs from a cold start or after the car has sat for even 5 to 10 minutes. It's not the ABS self test but but almost has a repeated staccato (sp?)or a noise like a playing card stuck in a child's bicycle spokes. The noise/clatter increases with speed/RPMs and then seems to fade after 25 mph or so. It really is a bad or cheap sounding noise. The noise does not help sell future Hondas to those who ride in my Accord. Any help or suggestion is appreciated.

blackexv6

I'm baffled. Is is coming from the engine? Knocking?

Maybe you have a bad tire or wheel bearing.

I would try using another dealership. There are a lot of good Honda service techs out there. Go for a ride with one of the techs or the service manager - they are more than happy to help.

Honda usually stands behind their products. Unless, it is an engineering problem which may take months or years to resolve.

The 4cyl Accords are great cars - stay positive.

piloti_sti

Yes, this would be my first lease, we tend to go through cars fast for one reason or another. The big advantage for me would be not having to put a huge down payment and being able to leave that cash invested in things actually appreciating.

piloti_sti

That is what I based the quote off of, after I read it on the website. I just preferred to not put more than $1000 down, so with 7% tax it is $319/mth.

tom83

It's definitely coming from the engine compartment. I thought it was knocking but it's a different sound. It occurs even if I very slowly accelerate never breaking 2000 rpm. Tires are fine as are the wheel bearings. I've stuck my head out the drivers window to listen and again, it's definitely coming from the engine compartment. I rode with my dealer's service manager and his top senior tech and they could not distinguish a separate noise. My dealer is independently owned. There are two Dobbs/AutoNation dealers in town so I guess I will have to check out their mechanics and/or service managers. I just wish the collective forum member group would have some answers. Thanks so much for your ideas.

ray_h1

Knocking (rod bearings or wrist pins) is more evident at steady speeds or when decelerating because the worn bearings aren't under load as when accelerating. Piston slap, however, will occur under any driving mode and could be the culprit if it's actually an internal engine noise. (very unusual for a Honda motor to have that problem, though) Can you hear the noise at idle? If so, have you raised the hood to try to better isolate the general location of the noise? Sometimes a temporary clicking noise will develop at the heat shield covering the exhaust manifold as the sheet metal expands and creaks during warmup - especially if one or more attaching bolts have worked loose or were improperly tightened. To test, wait until the car is cold and then try shaking the heat shield to check if it's loose in any direction of applied force.

stickguy

also, while parked and with the hood up, have someone rev it up and down to see if you can duplicate the noise. If you only hear it when moving, it sounds like something non-engine related.

Noises like this are a big pain, since it is very hard to isolate where they are coming from, especially if you have to be moving to hear it. That, and sound travels in funny ways, so it may sound like it coming from one area, when it really originates elsewhere.

Wonder if something is loose and flapping around somehow? Could end up being something really silly.

slazenger

Hello:

I am planning on purchasing a 07 Accord SE soon. Wondering if the current Accord owners can recommend good websites for accessories and Honda extended warranty. I don't think I can get good deals with dealers in my area.

Thanks!

elroy5

good websites for accessories

This is a great website for accessories.

http://www.handaaccessories.com/accord.html

tamu2002

Does anyone know how to add an mp3 input to the standard CD player? If this is doable, it's definitely easier and cheaper than to replace the whole unit for an mp3 capable CD player. Thanks.

pat

Hi - you can see what others have done in this discussion: Honda Accord Audio Questions (iPod, MP3, speakers, etc.)

yanker

Can anyone provide me with a rational reason why the EX without leather has power up and down seat while the EXL has a real power seat?????

ray_h1

This availability restriction is purely a M-A-R-K-E-T-I-N-G / T-R-I-M - L-E-V-E-L decision - the same busines school herding mentality psychology behind being forced to accept a headroom-robbing sunroof in the EX and LX V6 models or be denied certain paint color choices in the VP and LX models. Unfortunately capital punishment's not an option for the dweebs who come up with these brain phardtz.

jaxs1

To give you more reason to upgrade to the leather model.
You get the full power seat plus automatic climate control and a few other items when you get the EX-L.
They need those extra luxuries for enticement to people debating whether or not to go for leather.

bolivar

Ah, I remember the old days, when you could order a car and specify almost each and every option that was listed for a car. Only things that combined were reasonable things, like if you wanted a heavy duty suspension, you also had to take larger wheels/tires.

But, you see, I'm old. That's the only reason I can remember when such things were possible.

You could also pick and chose interior and exterior color combinations. Even obscene, horrid combinations, if you checked and double-checked certain option boxes, and then made a very healthy non-refundable deposit.

jack47

And I loved that tool box and spare tire on the running board.

Ah...the good old days. :P

yanker

Thanks for the insights I already own an 03 Ex with leather and would consider an EX without weather. It gets cold up here and the seat heaters are great but..... I was amazed to find no power seat in EX sedan. It is a really tough choice between this Honda and a comparable Toyota Camry where even the LE has a real power seat and some of the Avalon's have two of them

tom83

Sorry for the delay reply--been out of town. Thanks so much for the ideas. I'll give anything a try.

tom83

Thanks and sorry for the delayed response--I hope it's nothing loose as I have only 6400+ miles on it but there's a chance something may not have been assembled properly. I may take it to another dealer to see (or Hear) what they may be able to determine. To all others, I'll gladly listen to (read) any other ideas. Many thanks.

tamu2002

I posed this question on another board but wondered what folks on this one think. Basically I'm wanting to find out what would be a safe range of RPM for the engine. Now I try to keep the RPM below 3K for my new car, but wonder if it's be ok to rev it to 4K regularly once the engine is broken in.

thegraduate

Now I try to keep the RPM below 3K for my new car, but wonder if it's be ok to rev it to 4K regularly once the engine is broken in.

Yes, and it is safe to do so often once the car is properly broken in. The danger level is obviously, at redline. Under that, the car should run fine for years and years.

Every once in awhile I have to take my 1996 LX Accord (130hp) Automatic for a romp north of 5,000 RPM, sometimes within 500RPM of redline (the Auto shifts about 300 RPM short of the 6,300 RPM redline), mainly because that's where it is strongest in the powerband. No smoking, no burning oil, no problems from it. 166,000 miles.

binu

My main gripe is with Honda forcing the ivory interior on certain colors.
For the Carbon Bronze, Black and White exterior colors, I am very dissappointed that Honda makes the Accord available only with the Ivory interiors.
I like the Carbon Bronze exterior and I ended up buying a 2006 in late July mainly because the 'Charcoal' interior was also offered on a 2006 (which is the one I bought) and the 2007 model with Carbon Bronze Exterior was offered only with 'Ivory' Interior.
My favorite would have been a red with charcoal interior but again the red is available only with a gray.

I wish they would offer multiple interior choices with most exterior colors.

tamu2002

"Now I try to keep the RPM below 3K for my new car"

Did you get it new? And how long did you drive that way before letting all hell break loose

thegraduate

Sorry, i forgot to make the statements I was replying to in bold! That was you driving like that that I was replying to, haha.

Personally, I stayed under 4k RPM for the first 1,000 miles of my 2006 EX I-4 Auto, then drove like I normally do (which is not really any different) but was not afraid to wind up to 6,000 RPM on an on-ramp if I needed to squeeze ahead of somebody to merge.

blane

I love the ivory interior in my Accord. It's bright and striking. I probably would never have considered a gloomy black or gray interior.

thegraduate

The problem with the Ivory is that it shows dirt/stains much worse than the black, and somewhat worse than the gray. It looks much more worn out to me than a gray.

My grandmother has a 2002 LX (83k)with ivory interior, and I also have a 1996 LX (166k miles)with gray. The gray interior looks newer than the ivory does.

You better keep a bottle of carpet cleaner in your trunk, or your stains will add up fast!

blane

I'm in my 34th month and just over 30,000 miles with my Coupe with ivory leather interior and it looks great. Maybe I just wear cleaner clothes than others and don't carry messy kids or people very often.

Of course I wouldn't want to eat off of the floor mats, but they get a regular vacuuming... about once every six months. I've never even thought of cleaning any other surfaces, except for the windows and dashboard.

jaxs1

I drove 2006 VP for a couple days and thought it was great driving around town.
However, as soon as I took it out on a freeway with frequent expansion joints and other irregularities, I noticed the ride was unacceptably rough. It rode like a truck or worse.
Is that what they're all like?
After discounting, the price is much better than a Camry, but I wouldn't want to just live with driving high mileage on freeways for hours and deal with that bumpy of a ride.

elroy5

The Accord can have a fair amount of road noise, and has a stiffer ride than the Camry. But on most roads it is quiet and smooth (very little wind noise). If you ride on rough roads every day, and ride smoothness is a top priority for you, you may want to get the Camry. I can deal with the occasional road noise, and slightly rougher ride, for the sportier feel of the Accord suspension. The Camry feels like it might roll over in a hard turn, and feels kind of boaty on smooth roads.

jaxs1

Actually there was no noise problem, the ride was just too bumpy. I plan to drive about 180 miles a day, mostly freeway miles and I want something suitable.
Since I will be in the car about 3 or 4 hours a day, it needs to be comfortable, but since I will be driving high mileage, I need fuel economy too.

atlantabenny

Many cars coming out of the dealership these days have over-inflated tires, which might explain the excessive firmness of the VP you test-drove.

We have two gen 7 Accords which I keep at 32 psi all around, and the ride is BMW-firm but stll compliant enough in rough roads. I prefer it over the Toyota suspension setting, and I'm refering to a "sporty" Solara I owned awhile back.

I got new tires one time and checking air pressure the next day saw 46 psi, the tire's allowable maximum pressure. Apparently tire technicians interpret max pressure to be the standard pressure.

All told, it may have been overinflation on your test drive. Try it again, but ask the dealer to check pressure before driving off.

tamu2002

Hi jaxs1, I have a new 06 manual VP now with 820 miles. Just filled up for the 2nd time and got 34.5 mpg calculated (90% highway). I'm loving the fuel economy. I think you will too. The car can easily go 450 miles in one tank on the highway.

As far as rough ride, I'm biased because my last ride was a compact Geo Storm. My Accord is light years better than the Geo, but it's definitely a lot rougher than our Quest minivan (of course). My overall feeling about the ride so far is that it's not super comfy but not terribly annoying either. On the other hand, it drives and handles much like a small compact car. And the 4-cy engine has very strong acceleration above 2500 rpm.

Hope that helps a little.

tamu2002

And the engine is SO quiet. I find that the road noise inside the car very much depends on the road surface. On newly paved asphalt it's wisper quiet inside even at highway speed. On bad roads though, it's just roaring

ray_h1

)) "I love the ivory interior in my Accord. It's bright and striking. I probably would never have considered a gloomy black or gray interior." ((

"Gloomy"'s exactly the right word. My better half has another make car in "dark charcoal"* cloth. That motif is very depressing psychologically - at night it's like being trapped in a black hole. Illumination from the dome light just kinda disappears as soon it leaves the milky diffuser.

*I guess that sounds more upscale than "black"...

ray_h1

)) "On bad roads though, it's just roaring" ((

Blame a good deal of that on the Michelin "Energy" tires Honda chooses for performance and fuel economy. Their relatively stiff all-season tread compounding telegraphs the rolling noise of less than ideal road surfacing right into the cabin. Additionally, if your car runs 50 series aspect ratio rubber, the shallower, stiffer sidewalls just exacerbate the problem further.* If you can stand the thought of sacrificing 1/2-3/4 mpg, there are quieter tires to be had at replacement time.

*There's no way I'm advocating returning to the days of flexible sidewall, sloppy handling, bias-ply tires, but anyone old enough to remember them knows what a luxuriant and quiet ride they provided.

bobflyer

I am very close to pulling the trigger on a Honda Accord with the 4 cyl. engine Auto Trans. I have never owned a 4 cyl. But the test drive near town seemed more than adaquate. However, I did not get the opportunity to test it on the open road, cruising I see no real problem, but when it comes to passing another vehicle, if you are running 60mph and need to pass. Is there enough reserve power/performance to pass without the vehicle really bogging down or laboring to meet the needs of passing? I know this is a subjective question. Most of our driving is around town, 75% plus 25% trips, between Alabama and Ind. Some hills, our current V6 Chev shows some signs of slowing down and it will downshift trying to maintain speed when climbing some of the moderate hills.

Any Thoughts appreciated, Thanks in advance BobFlyer

thegraduate

I currently have a 2006 EX I-4 Auto (the same engine and trans you are shopping)... It is more than adequate for passing, but realize that a downshift is usually necessary more often on a 4-cylinder due to peak horsepower being higher in the RPM range. Also, this car has a 5-speed automatic, which means more gears to choose from than your 4-speed (I'm guessing) Chevrolet, and in return, it is going to use all 5 of those gears to your greatest advantage.

In a Honda though, the I-4 engine revs so smoothly all the way to 6,000 RPM and higher(although its never necessary to rev that high for my driving style)that it is never a problem. I live in Alabama too, and understand the hills you are talking about. This car had no trouble cruising at 90 MPH when my dad drove to the beach with a car full a people and stuff through the hills of Alabama.

I have always had enough power to accelerate, even with 4 people and their gear in the car. I usally travel at 75 MPH, and occasionally call for a downshift to pass. The car shifts so smoothly, most people don't realize it's even shifting.

I believe you will find this car more than adequate on the interstate at speeds of 80 MPH in the hills.

May I also ask what V6 Chevrolet you currently drive?

tamu2002

Interesting. I always thought it's the type of material on the pavement to blame, because the car IS incredibly quiet on certain road surface. BTW my new Accord has Eagle tires and not Michelin. :confuse: