By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
http://www.mag-x.com/scoop/accordwagon0110/index.html
It reads credible to me.
Has anyone had this happen before? Any thoughts as to how to approach this? Should I take it to my insurance and have the dealership pay my deductible?
How much is this going to cost? It's only about a quarter inch long, but the primer is what sticks out.
Thanks for your help!
Although I wish they would...
I'm ready to ditch it and move on to something else - Maxima, Passat, maybe a 3.2TL (or Type-S), I35. This time, I'll definately be taking longer than a 15 minute ride on a cold Chicago night.
Jeff
On the other hand, I have a friend who cannot get comfortable in a Mercedes ML because of a perceived lack of lumbar support, so the only conclusion I draw from this is that there are too many variations on human stature for one manufacturer to please everyone.
I prefer the Accord seats to anything I encountered at Toyota or Nissan; the Germans generally feel better still to me, but not by a huge amount. This is easily the most personal aspect of buying a car - only you know what works for you...
And yes you can wait up to 7,500 miles between oil changes, if you driving is not considered severe. If you know that you will not be keeping your car for at least 120,000 plus miles you could save the cost of a lot of oil changes. It will last that long with minimal servicing. But if you are like me and want drive a car for 12 to 15 years, I recommend you change you oil every 3000 and definetly not longer than 5000 miles no matter what your driving habits are.
There was also a question about where to buy an extended warranty. My question is why do you think you need one? Honda is a well made car and unless you have had many problems already with yours, save your money. It rarely pays for its cost, which is over $1000 for the coverage you were talking about. Yes there are a few people who have actually been saved by having one, but they are by far the exception. If you do all of the required service on your car, you should easily get at least 8 trouble free years and 100,000 miles of driving before something significant costs you any money.
My question is why I can't find anything in the owner's manual regarding replacing the cap and rotor. Even in the schedule maintenance table section.
Thanks. Live in Western Washington state. Will give report of price paid for 02 EX V6 when I get it.
Electronic ignition does not mean no distributor!!! It just mean that there are no breaker points (prior to electronic ignition) in the distributor.
Early electronic ignition have distributor. Some late models use distributorless (direct ignition) where each sparkplug has its own coil sitting right above it.
My 2001 4cyl accord has a distributor. I haven't look inside to see if there is a rotor to be replaced. That is why I ask the question in post 2417.
My neighbour has a '97 Intrepid, which he is trying to sell for $6K (negotiable, about 73K miles).
http://www.honda-touch.de/Accord/Aerodeck/AccordAerodeck03.jpg
...No-interest financing worsened an already troubled used car market that has been hurt by a flood of 2- and 3-year-old vehicles coming off leases. And rental car companies have been dumping some of their 1-year-old fleet into the market because of a falloff in business since Sept. 11.
For new car buyers, the glut is costly. Consumers are fuming over how little cash they're getting for trade-ins.
"Some people are losing $2,000 on trades compared to what they could have gotten several months ago," says Randall McCathren, president of Bank Lease Consultants, a research and consulting firm....
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2001-10-23-used-cars.htm
Honda isn't offering "free" financing, so cheaper new cars shouldn't devalue used Hondas as much. Ford, GM and Chrysler probably can't say that - zero financing and rental car glut.
Over at the Mercedes C-Class board, the group has convinced itself, with no data and no experiences worth talking about, that MB's decision to make some Cs in Brazil from German knock-down kits is a sign that the world as they know it is about to come to an end. Woe is us, etc.
Please let us avoid the same arm-waving here...I hope...
More likely sometime after the first of the year, when the undisguised prototypes start surfacing for final testing. Sooner or later, someone gets a camera facing the right way at the right time...
I currently have a '92 LX wagon with 176,000 miles and I wouldn't get rid of it....except for a new one.
Does anyone have confirmation that Honda will be resurrecting the wagon soon...say like for 2002?
I've never had anything but fair bids using this approach, and I have a cashable check in my hands inside of 24 hours.
claywaterfill:
What do you consider the strenghths of these two cars? Really, not just a statement that it is a Honda or Hyundai. That should help you get to the right car far more easily than comparing these cars on paper. For example, I would pay more for an Accord because it just feels like a better car to me. Sonata is too soft, and feels mushy to me. I would not buy a Camry for similar reasons. It feels like a bouncing ball.
As far as the Honda vs. Hyundai comments, I'd say if you have to choose right now, go for the Honda, even if it cost more. The Honda will be more reliable, is made of better quality, has much higher resale value, and is and all around better car than the Hyundai in many ways. I am not trying to hate on the Hyundai or anything, it's just that, for the money, I'd go with the Honda. Just my opinion though.
~alpha
any one have pictures or insights into what Honda is planning for the new design ?
The full article can be viewed
here
Note about resale value; If you only keep your car 4-6 years, you should care about resale value. Yes, Honda's are more expensive, but retain more value within that time frame as a percentage of initial cost. If you said you kept your cars for 8-10 years, then the difference would be more negligible. I'll give you an example. I have a '95 Acura Integra which cost me about 18k new. Now 6-1/2 years later it is worth approximately 7-8k. Thats about 38% of its initial value. Now when I do get a new car, I have that extra value to put into the deal, thus reducing the cost of the next vehicle. No matter what you think, higher resale value = more money for you. This is especially true if you are going to spend a set amount on the car (as you indicated, when you said you could get a loaded Sonata for the cost of of an average Accord). If you want to negate some of the resale difference, then compare equivalently equipped vehicles and save yourself 3-4k with a new Sonata. Then invest the 3-4k in a sensible investment and your covered.
Don't buy a car solely based on resale value, though. Get the car that overall fits you and is the best value. Good Luck.