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if you have good plugs and wires and the coils are performing right have the crankshaft position senor and the camshaft position sensor checked. Usually these will pop the service engine light.
On my 94 the light didn't come on immediately for the same bucking and sputtering problem. The shop tells me that these can be intermittent problems that lead up to the failure of the sensor.
When your crankshaft position sensor or camshaft sensor fail you will crank with no start.
my crankshaft sensor went at 159,000 miles and the camshaft sensor at 210,000.
I have a '99 Silo that has to be catagorized as a LEMON! Fortunately all that has gone wrong has been mostly covered by either the original warranty or the expended one that runs out tomorrow :sick:
The AC compressor went out about 1 year ago at about 45K..other costly problems included the torque converter/trans shifting, replacement of all coils, replacement of all fuel injectors, trip computer replaced twice, ....
I like the van, it's comfortable, rides well, looks ok--but I will NEVER BUY another GM van again--had I not had the warranties this thing would have cost me a fortune. For example to replace 1 injector costs $382---when the second one went we replaced them all for about $850---of that $850, GM picked up $400 :mad:
Just over a year ago the rear AC stopped working. A local shop serviced the AC and said the rear expansion valve was bad. OK...
So yesterday I pulled out all the left hand rear trim to replace the valve and was able to do so in place without pulling the whole ac/heat unit.
Before changing the expansion valve the system was emptied. During the replacement of the valve there was a "POP" and a release of gas through the rear lines. An odd thing considering there was no pressure (or appeared to be...) in the system.
After replacement and purge/evacuation of the system I started the vehicle and began to add gas. When the pressure was adequate the ac clutch closed. In seconds I could hear the gas circulating in the rear evap. Now the front doesn't work.
So I have two questions:
1 - Is there some kind of flow divider / check valve that seperates the two AC circuits ? 2 - If so, how do I reset it ?
Yesterday I opened my car door and the bell indicator was ringing very quickly, similar to when you leave the keys in the ignition. When I started the vehicle, the headlinghts did not turn on automatically as they always have (I had to turn them on manually), and I have no dashboard/control panel illumination (althought the individual "trouble indicators" are working) I checked all the fuses and they look fine. It's a 2003 Silhouette.
I am the 2nd owner of a 2001 GLS and is currently dealing with that issue. It has been leaking for a while however, I did not know of the "coolant issue" and now I face the possibility of a rusted engine. This happens when the leak goes on for too long and it leaks into the oil (or visa versa) the coolant then becomes like a gel hence an engine replacement is neccesary. Besides that the only other common problems are the warmer drivers side vents, the ac switch burnout, the power sliding doors issue and the difficulty of routine maintainance, the van performs well.
I'm a newbie here in the forum so forgive me, but I have been reading many of the posts out of interest and partly out of necessity. I have a couple of questions to ask and a couple of comments to make. We purchased our Premier in 2000 with about 7,000 miles on it as I remember. The Dealer's daughter had used the van (loaner) for a short period of time so we got a good deal on it. And it was loaded including the towing package everything.
I just realized that this could turn into a book so I will just make a few statements and questions and if anybody's interested in more of a detailed story I will oblige.
Too be honest you won't believe the things we have experienced. Let's just start of by saying that from the time we drove it off the lot until I demanded a check (before the extended warranty ran out) the rear brakes NEVER worked on the vehicle PERIOD. And I am not BSing it was confirmed by the dealer to GM, they even flew an expert in.
Anyway GM's Extended Warranty is an ABSOLUTE RIP OFF. You are better off taking the money and sticking it into a bank account for when you have problems. Why because it is at THEIR discretion as to whether they have to cover it or not. It is nothing like the original Bumper to Bumper warranty and we bought the BEST extended warranty they offer. And I want to think it was 3 to 4 grand for that warranty. What did I get out of GM for that warranty, nothing but headache and maybe $500.00 in parts. Anyway they did finally fix the rear brakes but refused to pay 1 cent for the front brakes that were ruined as a result. And I don't just mean pads, it had 4 sets of lifetime warranty pads go bad in less than a year in the front. It damaged the rotors, caused overheating of the brake fluid causing all the lines to have to be drained etc. etc.
Anyway time for a question. We are about 10,000 miles after having what work was performed at the dealer, and all of a sudden the van is now running real rough at idle and at acceleration, like it is missing or a valve not firing. At first I thought it was the air filter (we have seen some weird things when your air filter needs replacing), replaced it .. little improvement, thought maybe bad gas, so STP'd it and filled with High Octane. Still missing. (By the way should have mentioned the Service Engine Soon light blinks on and off and intermittently just stays on) There doesn't seem to be any blue or black exhaust so I am leaning towards a fowled or bad plug or possibly a dirty fuel filter, Anyone had an experience with such a problem?
I will continue the rest of my story for anyone that's interested. Let me just say until the problems started we loved the van. And until it hit about 60K most of the problems I can just blame on GM dealers. But after that things really have gone down hill. Would appreciate any response from anybody that has had similar problem. My next question will be on water pump life - ours started leaking at 60K and they refused to cover it under the extended warranty too. What happened to that Cooling system that should last until 150K with no service as long as you used the DEXCOOL coolant. Seems to me that the water pump is part of the cooling system but I guess GM doesn't think so. Thanks!
Just wondering if you ever figured anything out or if anybody was able to help you at all. I have a 2000 with the optional REAR AC unit and mine seems to have quit working as well - blows hot air. The question I have is does the Rear System have it's own compressor and charge points or does everything come from the front compressor. My Haynes manual shows you how to get to the rear unit by removing the trim, but that's about it! Any guidance would be appreciated! Thanks!
Hey there folks. Just bought a 2001 Olds Silhouette Premiere and two days ago I started the van and the cabin lights came on but did not shut off. The only way to kill them is by using the over-ride. Any suggestions?
Thanks claires but I managed to correct the problem by leaving the lights on for 10 minutes and letting the van's battery saver function shut them off. I guess it reset itself after that all is working now . Cheers!
We just purchased a 99 olds silhouette from a personal owner. It did not come with an owners manual so therefore some of the questions could hopefully be answered quickly. Our passenger door is supposed to be automatic but it does not work. You can hear it trying to and it is alot harder to close than the drivers side door. There are buttons on the dash and on the side of the vehicle for this and still I am confused if I am doing something wrong. There is also a note on the side of the door that says you can disable this by turning it off. I am unsure of where this could be and how to locate it. Could you help please?
Just had the head gaskets replaced on my 02. When we purchased we were given the option to have the 6yr or 60,000 mile warranty. We have 54,000 miles. Dealership had heads milled and replaced gaskets and "No Charge" Vehicle now drives perfect and everything seems to be put back as it is supposed to be. Wonderful no hassle service. While in there they did the recall on the back inside door handles. We noticed some kind of liquid leaking on garage floor. The temp gauge went to almost in the red and I returned home immediately. Probably only drove a mile. The next day I took to dealer, less than 3 miles and they diagnosed as head gasket failure. We love this car and dealer rep said this is not very common for head gasket failure. The intake gasket has been a problem in the past for some but the head gaskets have not been much of a problem. Other than an ignition switch failure this vehicle has just been oil, grease and tire rotation maintaince.
Hi! Ok, there is 3 ways to open and close the automatic door. If your key has the remote lock control use that, or there is a button located in the overhead console. from the manual 2-26(Overhead console switch) "Pushing the bottom of the button turns the power sliding door off. When the power sliding switch is turned off, you will not be able to open the door using the switch located on the overhead console, the wall mounted switch in the front passenger's sliding door or remote lock control transmitter. " To open or close the sliding door, press and release one of the 2 power door switches. Overhead console(main lock)release this button. or passengers wall mounted switch. There was a recall on the passenger auto door a few years ago. It could open auto. when driving. You should see if it's been serviced for this recall. Hope this worked. The door will be very hard to open when auto is turned off or broken.
Same thing happened to my silo. Was told yesterday from Olds service that the main ac unit is in the front, but the rear has it's own expansion valve and orfus tube . This needs to be replaced. The front blows cold, but back blows warm or current car temp. All comes from front compressor, but has rear valves to control back climate.
My 1998 Silhouette has 130,000 miles on it and has been a fairly good vehicle. However, it has just developed a problem with the air flow through the dash vents. The passenger side and the two center dash vents closet to the passenger blow cold air, but the drivers side dash vent and the center vent most close to the driver is now blowing air that is about 20 degrees warmer than the passenger vents. This appears to be somewhat of a common problem as I have seen other posts that refer to it, but I have seen nothing that addresses a solution. Can anybody out there tell what the cause and solution are? I might as well mention a couple of other problems since I am posting. One problem that only happens every now and then is that the transmission will disengage while driving. It is like it goes into neutral. You can let off the accelerator, coast for a moment and then you are good to go again. The problem may not happen again for weeks or months. The problem started around 70,000 miles and only at highway speeds and would only occur every six months or less. Lately it has started at normal or in-town speeds and occurs more frequently. However, the frequency has not increased for highway use. I could mention the sliding door problems (keeps re-opening, sometimes will not work at all) but I have taken enough space for now.
The tires on my '90 Silhouette are about shot. I have a pair of aftermarket alloys previously used on a '93 Buick LeSabre, they are mounted with 205/55 16's. Bolt pattern is the same. An internet source says the offset for the Buick is 52 and 42 for the Silhouette. Will they fit?
I know this is an old message, but, I have a 99 and the rear speakers are all distorted also when the video is playing. Can you tell me what part was finally changed that fixed this issue? The speakers work fine when the radio, CD, or tape is playing. Just bad when the video is on. The headphone jacks work fine. Thanks for your help.
2 1/2 weeks ago, we had to replace the Intake Manifold Gasket on our '02 Silhouette just 2K miles past the warranty. Just the next day, the check engine light starts coming on for the EVAP Purge Solenoid (P0443 error).
The dealer sees no connection between their work and the Check Engine Light that lights up the very next day (it was never on before).
So I ask, is there a connection between the two?
I realize that it is hard to trust the dealer when I make the comment that the Intake Manifold Gasket seems to be the biggest problem with the 3.4 GM engines. His reply was: "I haven't noticed that". :mad:
We bought this vehicle 6 weeks ago, 85K miles, for $5995 form a small car lot. claimed it was used by some banking concern, whatever! First excursion took us from home to Orlando International. Guess what it, overheated for the return trip home. We bought "as is", however the guy we bought from said that if we brought it back they would fix the problem, they had it 5 days. Yup it was the manifold gasket that I have read about in this forum. Next day took it to St.Augustine area. Guess what? Overheated big time, they had it again for another 5 days. We got this vehicle because our previous car was a Ciera that we lost to a head on crash, and my wife needed a different vehicle that she didn't have to climb into or fall into. This is the first van we have ever owned, having had 3 kids and gone through a '79 Chevette (we took this thing on 5 round trips from FL to MI), '69 and '75 Impala, Buick Wagon, 1972 Subaru DL, ' 81Chrysler Lebaron, and "66 Ford Wagon. I have read all the previous postings about this 99 Silhouette. I am not sure which model we have. We dont have the VCR or a CD player, so I assume we have a middle of the road model. Problems we have noticed with it so far (1) MOISTURE under driver and passenger front. I think this is from rain, not A/C. location of entry point unsure, Yet! (2) COOLANT LOSS. I have seen steady loss over the past few day and strong odour upon exiting the car though no odour inside. Today spent 3 hours trying to trace that. I think I have found a partial cause not listed so far in forum. The Radiator cap was dripping minute drops of fluid(once in 5 secs). Also the overflow pipe to that tank exhibited fluid where it exited the tank. I will watch if this where the smell comes from. I have not seen any other evidence of fluid about the engine or on the ground,Yet! Still trying to get used to the remote key deal. Learn that one cant have car running and have door closed with me outside vehicle, yes that part works well fortunately it was in my driveway, and my missus was home with her key. Still cant figure out why we have to turn engine off to open automatic door when stopped, or why dome lights dont come on when unlocking car at night, perhaps someone could enlighten us.(no pun intended) Condition of vehicle is very nice, carpet shows the evidence of the water leak but no oppressive odour Found the A/C filters in glove box, looked like never cleaned, full of dirt and leaves, remedied good wet bath and deodorised, works great now. I try to be a little pragmatic. 1 more thing the engine light came on, twice, took it to Autozone, they put their little gizmo under dash and the number 0440 popped up, they claimed that it was from the gas cap not being tight enough, we'll see. Also gas gauge doesn't work so we refill at the idiot light or 180 trip miles. not sure of gas tank capacity. Thanks in advance for any input, Mike
I have a 94 Olds Silhouette. I have been enjoying it without many problems until lately. My power sliding door simply quit the other day. I have checked the fuses and they are fine. The manual that came with the mini-van is no help (big surprise), and my Haynes manual does not even mention power sliding doors. I have looked in the read only archive for Power door & lift gate problems, and tried the diagnostics trouble codes procedure listed (though I fear it is for newer models) no joy as I was unable to enter the diagnostic mode.
The only possible help I see in my Haynes manual is in the chassis electrical system diagrams that mention that each motor for power doors or lift gates contains an (ECB) or electronic circuit breaker. However nowhere does it tell me where this blinking motor should be or how to get to it so I can check the ECB
The Haynes manual also mentions a solid-state control module but once again no information on where it might be located or how to trouble shoot it.
The only thing I can add that might help here is that if you leave the door open and place the mini-van in gear the warning buzzer still buzzes.
I have scoured the forums and not found any help for this problem. If someone could help me out I would really appreciate it.
I have also placed this request for help in the “GM's triplets: Venture, Silhouette, and Montana” forum.
I also have a '94 minivan. I just had a new battery put in the vehicle and the power door no longer works. My symptoms are very similar to yours. I can add one other fact. This happened once before when I had some electrical work done on the vehicle and one day it mysteriously started working again.
If you get any responses, I would love to hear the answer. I do not think it is mechanical. I think their is some kind of reset switch somewhere in the vehicle.
Perhaps it is a mysterious electrical issue but I found the motor it is over the right rear wheel well. To get to it simply pop the snaps on the trim and it comes right off.
I applied a voltmeter to the motor connections and when you depress the open buttons no juice to the motor.
Hope someone has an answer it is almost impossible fro my kids to get the door opened or closed.
I bought a 2001 in August. The "problem" with the passenger power door is a child safety restraint. I've found that putting car in Park and manually using the unlock button on the driver arm-rest allows the power door to be opened without having to turn ignition off. I also had the interior light "problem." I found out that the interior light flywheel to the left of the steering-wheel was turned off. After I toggled it back on the interior lights worked properly when entering and exiting the car. TO ALL FORUM MEMBERS:
Before I bought this car, I read through the entire forum, and I'd like to thank all of you (and Edmunds) for the great information you all provided. - Jim
Hello, I have no answers but my 2001 with 78000 on it did the same thing tonight. I was going down the road (at night) heard a pop and the lights went out. I got home and found a 20 amp fuse had blown, put in a new one and it popped too. Put a 30 amp fuse in and lights came on but started to smell something burning so quickly pulled fuse out. Taking to mechanic tomorrow. Have you any suggestions yet. Thanks.
Had the same thing happen tonight in my 2001 Silhouette. I found a 20amp fuse blown. replaced and it blew. Thought i would try a 30 amp fuse. Lights came on but started to smell something burning, so quickly pulled it out. It definatlely has something to do with that fuse. Something has gone to ground. Have you learned any thing. Im taking to mechanic tomorrow. :confuse: thanks
I have a 2001 Olds Silhouette with a VCR Player. I put a new Battery in it & ever since the VCR Player keeps blowing 5 amp fuses . I also put a 7.5 & a 10 amp in as well, but didn't go any higher for fear of burning wires, etc. The VCR worked fine before changing the battery. I know of no other issues. Any Ideas anyone?
I recall my sales person telling me the same thing when I bought a Silhoutte in 03. It was a promotion to sell the Oldsmobiles after they announcements. I just took my van in today for an issue and the service dept is telling me I have a 5/60 and unfortunately I am at 61K and have the infamous leaking lower intake gasket. Tomorrow I am going to contac the sales person - assuming he is still there and try and get this cleared up.
Thank you Gary. I do not check this sight very often, but now I cannot wait to go home and try the solution. My kids have the same problem with the door. I hope it works for me!!
Silhouette 1999. I am still befuddled as to why my passenger power sliding door will not operate automatically, I have changed the fuse and still no change, the power lock button on the drivers door has never worked since I purchased the vehicle, but the PSD did and now doesn't. As for coolant leaks, how about this revelation, on top of the engine there appears to be a high pressure water line that has a plastic coupling. I am still losing fluid and this area around the coupling was never wet as the fluid went directly to the manifold cover and was vaporised(hence the odour). the extremely fine spray from the plastic coupling is on the side opposite side of viewing when looking straight on at engine, It appears that the replacement part is a dealer item and one has to have Spiderman characteristics to undo the the pipe. As for water on the floor under passenger and driver, I sealed around top of windshield where there were to potential points of entry as well as sealing around the rubber. :surprise:
I don't know if this will help, but recently I left the interior light on in my 94 Silhouette and the battery died. After I charged the battery the sliding door wouldn't work, I had to open it manually (which is a huge pain). We tried everything we could think of including checking fuses. Finally we decided to disconnect the battery for about 15-30 minutes. Once we hooked he battery back up it worked fine. Like I said, don't know if that helps, good luck!
Update on PSD. Went to local shade tree mechanic. He had a computer diagnostic device. It came up with nothing about the door. Fuses checked out too. Guess what the problem was? On the PSD there are 7 pins that hit a metal plate on the opposite door frame. One of those pins was stuck down and thus didnt make the contact. It also affected the dome light when I opened the door. We pulled up the pin and hey presto the door runs like its supposed to do. Cost of his time $10. Tomorrow we get the problematic water leak fixed, then lastly the fuel tank sending unit
Just picked up a 99 Sil. (not running) The serp. belt was off, and upon insp. saw the vib. damper was not lined up with other pulleys. The outer section has worked itself away from the engine almost 1 inch. In my 40+ years of shadetree mechanicing Ive never seen one seperate like that...Anyone else? What would cause this?? :confuse:
Apparently this got the dreaded intake/ head gasket sickness as it was super overheated. Water in oil, coolant was like dark brown syrup... what little bit came out.
Question... I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar to remove 2 of the 3 front spark plugs..took out some of the threads on one of them. Could this be caused by overheating and severely distorting the heads?
This sounds like a real project. You might get a motor from the junkyard of a same year Chev/Pont/Olds and just go with that. If a motor gets "super overheated" it can warp the heads, damage gaskets and bearings, etc. It might be fine, but I'd look to junkyard motor, then check/replace intake gasket before installing.
Sparkplugs - maybe were replaced w/o anti-seize on threads. Common mistake w/aluminum heads. Too bad, sounds like it caused some damage that will be effort/$ to fix.
HELLO I HAVE A 1997 OLDS SILHOUETTE.BOTH OF MY FRONT POWER SEATS QUIT WORKING AT THE SAME TIME. FUSES -CIRCUIT BRAKERS GOOD. EVEN HAVE POWER TO THE SWITCHES. BUT SEATS DO NOTHING, LIKE THEY ARE GETTING NO POWER??ALSO THE POWER DOOR JUST MAKES A CLICKING SOUND IN THE REAR, NO MOVEMENT? ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN CHECK FOR??? THANKS
On my wife's 2003 Olds Silh Premier she scratched off the paint on the radio buttons with her "very short" nails.Dealer said they know of no problems or recall for this problem. Anybody have a silmilar experience. I don't know how to change AM/FM or presets without taking my eyes off the road for an extra couple of seconds.
On our 2000 Silo, the paint has worn off the most used radio buttons also. I don't think it is done with finger nails, but just normal friction of pushing the buttons. I think you can use the button on the steering wheel to jump from one preset to the next. Or is it from one station to the next sequential strong station?
I took this car into the dealer because the tension belt literally fell apart and it was undriveable. This is my mother's car so as you can understand i'm trying to save her any money possible. I read all about the "infamous intake manifold gasket" problem and this is pretty much what the dealer says we have to replace. Dealer said the coolant looks a little bit rusty and wants to do the works. They want to do a total of about $1300 dollars worth of repairs. Much more than I expected to pay so i'm here looking for options.
Rundown: Replace Tension belt: $180 Air Filter: 42.20 Inductioner (might be wrong about this one) $95.00 Intake Manifold gasket: $943.00 etc, etc, Total about $1300
I'm having them replace the belt alone for now and will take it to a mechanic friend of mine who is fair, but not cheap either. Any thoughts of this guys/gals? Is there a way i can get GM to pick up some of the load or anything else I can do besides sucking it up at the dealership?
Car has 44 thousand miles on it and is my mother's sole mode of tranpsort to work.
Thanks!
~Chris who hates silhouettes if it costs him more than a thousand.
Hi, I've been having problems with my Olds Silhouette door lock mechanisms--don't know the exact term for it-perhaps a "clasp"? It's the u shaped part that goes around the post on the body. Lately I've had problems with it going too far into the door to the point where it completely blocks the post, making it impossible to close the door! I managed to use a screwdriver to fix my driver's side yesterday purely by luck because I'm not even sure what I did to free it! The passenger side seems to defy the laws of physics...Anyone know of diagram of these locks somewhere on the net as well as a procedure to free it? Any help would be appreciated--I'm at wits end here and had to tie my door closed yesterday--not a real good option in the middle of winter up here in Alaska. thanks! Mark :confuse:
We have the same model van and have the same problem. We have taken it to the shop while under warranty and after many attempts no problem was found. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a known existing problem with the Silo. I know that this is not the answer you wanted but we have learned to live with it. We do the same as you by shutting down the van and restart then sometimes the problem goes away. Sorry for the no help
I have a 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette Premier and the power windows work intermittently. I have to shut the van off and take the key out and open the door for them to start working again. All fuses have been replaced and switches are all conected and not loose. It will not work on either the driver door or passenger door. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette and the heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Any ideas on what and how to check the possible cause would be greatly appreciated.
I don't want to scare you, but we had the same problem and it turned out to be that dreaded intake manifold gasket. Luckily we had an extended warranty.
Comments
On my 94 the light didn't come on immediately for the same bucking and sputtering problem. The shop tells me that these can be intermittent problems that lead up to the failure of the sensor.
When your crankshaft position sensor or camshaft sensor fail you will crank with no start.
my crankshaft sensor went at 159,000 miles and the camshaft sensor at 210,000.
Thanks,
Eric
The AC compressor went out about 1 year ago at about 45K..other costly problems included the torque converter/trans shifting, replacement of all coils, replacement of all fuel injectors, trip computer replaced twice, ....
I like the van, it's comfortable, rides well, looks ok--but I will NEVER BUY another GM van again--had I not had the warranties this thing would have cost me a fortune. For example to replace 1 injector costs $382---when the second one went we replaced them all for about $850---of that $850, GM picked up $400 :mad:
Just over a year ago the rear AC stopped working. A local shop serviced the AC and said the rear expansion valve was bad. OK...
So yesterday I pulled out all the left hand rear trim to replace the valve and was able to do so in place without pulling the whole ac/heat unit.
Before changing the expansion valve the system was emptied. During the replacement of the valve there was a "POP" and a release of gas through the rear lines. An odd thing considering there was no pressure (or appeared to be...) in the system.
After replacement and purge/evacuation of the system I started the vehicle and began to add gas. When the pressure was adequate the ac clutch closed. In seconds I could hear the gas circulating in the rear evap. Now the front doesn't work.
So I have two questions:
1 - Is there some kind of flow divider / check valve that seperates the two AC circuits ?
2 - If so, how do I reset it ?
Thanks in advance.
Hot in Arizona,
-Mike :confuse:
Any ideas?
I am the 2nd owner of a 2001 GLS and is currently dealing with that issue. It has been leaking for a while however, I did not know of the "coolant issue" and now I face the possibility of a rusted engine. This happens when the leak goes on for too long and it leaks into the oil (or visa versa) the coolant then becomes like a gel hence an engine replacement is neccesary.
Besides that the only other common problems are the warmer drivers side vents, the ac switch burnout, the power sliding doors issue and the difficulty of routine maintainance, the van performs well.
I just realized that this could turn into a book so I will just make a few statements and questions and if anybody's interested in more of a detailed story I will oblige.
Too be honest you won't believe the things we have experienced. Let's just start of by saying that from the time we drove it off the lot until I demanded a check (before the extended warranty ran out) the rear brakes NEVER worked on the vehicle PERIOD. And I am not BSing it was confirmed by the dealer to GM, they even flew an expert in.
Anyway GM's Extended Warranty is an ABSOLUTE RIP OFF. You are better off taking the money and sticking it into a bank account for when you have problems. Why because it is at THEIR discretion as to whether they have to cover it or not. It is nothing like the original Bumper to Bumper warranty and we bought the BEST extended warranty they offer. And I want to think it was 3 to 4 grand for that warranty. What did I get out of GM for that warranty, nothing but headache and maybe $500.00 in parts. Anyway they did finally fix the rear brakes but refused to pay 1 cent for the front brakes that were ruined as a result. And I don't just mean pads, it had 4 sets of lifetime warranty pads go bad in less than a year in the front. It damaged the rotors, caused overheating of the brake fluid causing all the lines to have to be drained etc. etc.
Anyway time for a question. We are about 10,000 miles after having what work was performed at the dealer, and all of a sudden the van is now running real rough at idle and at acceleration, like it is missing or a valve not firing. At first I thought it was the air filter (we have seen some weird things when your air filter needs replacing), replaced it .. little improvement, thought maybe bad gas, so STP'd it and filled with High Octane. Still missing. (By the way should have mentioned the Service Engine Soon light blinks on and off and intermittently just stays on) There doesn't seem to be any blue or black exhaust so I am leaning towards a fowled or bad plug or possibly a dirty fuel filter, Anyone had an experience with such a problem?
I will continue the rest of my story for anyone that's interested. Let me just say until the problems started we loved the van. And until it hit about 60K most of the problems I can just blame on GM dealers. But after that things really have gone down hill. Would appreciate any response from anybody that has had similar problem. My next question will be on water pump life - ours started leaking at 60K and they refused to cover it under the extended warranty too. What happened to that Cooling system that should last until 150K with no service as long as you used the DEXCOOL coolant. Seems to me that the water pump is part of the cooling system but I guess GM doesn't think so. Thanks!
You might want to ask the folks in the Climate Control Problems (Heat/Air Conditioning): All Cars discussion. Just click the link to get there.
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There was a recall on the passenger auto door a few years ago. It could open auto. when driving. You should see if it's been serviced for this recall. Hope this worked. The door will be very hard to open when auto is turned off or broken.
I might as well mention a couple of other problems since I am posting. One problem that only happens every now and then is that the transmission will disengage while driving. It is like it goes into neutral. You can let off the accelerator, coast for a moment and then you are good to go again. The problem may not happen again for weeks or months. The problem started around 70,000 miles and only at highway speeds and would only occur every six months or less. Lately it has started at normal or in-town speeds and occurs more frequently. However, the frequency has not increased for highway use.
I could mention the sliding door problems (keeps re-opening, sometimes will not work at all) but I have taken enough space for now.
The dealer sees no connection between their work and the Check Engine Light that lights up the very next day (it was never on before).
So I ask, is there a connection between the two?
I realize that it is hard to trust the dealer when I make the comment that the Intake Manifold Gasket seems to be the biggest problem with the 3.4 GM engines. His reply was: "I haven't noticed that".
:mad:
I have read all the previous postings about this 99 Silhouette. I am not sure which model we have. We dont have the VCR or a CD player, so I assume we have a middle of the road model.
Problems we have noticed with it so far
(1) MOISTURE under driver and passenger front. I think this is from rain, not A/C. location of entry point unsure, Yet!
(2) COOLANT LOSS. I have seen steady loss over the past few day and strong odour upon exiting the car though no odour inside. Today spent 3 hours trying to trace that. I think I have found a partial cause not listed so far in forum. The Radiator cap was dripping minute drops of fluid(once in 5 secs). Also the overflow pipe to that tank exhibited fluid where it exited the tank. I will watch if this where the smell comes from. I have not seen any other evidence of fluid about the engine or on the ground,Yet!
Still trying to get used to the remote key deal. Learn that one cant have car running and have door closed with me outside vehicle, yes that part works well
Still cant figure out why we have to turn engine off to open automatic door when stopped, or why dome lights dont come on when unlocking car at night, perhaps someone could enlighten us.(no pun intended)
Condition of vehicle is very nice, carpet shows the evidence of the water leak but no oppressive odour
Found the A/C filters in glove box, looked like never cleaned, full of dirt and leaves, remedied good wet bath and deodorised, works great now. I try to be a little pragmatic.
1 more thing the engine light came on, twice, took it to Autozone, they put their little gizmo under dash and the number 0440 popped up, they claimed that it was from the gas cap not being tight enough, we'll see. Also gas gauge doesn't work so we refill at the idiot light or 180 trip miles. not sure of gas tank capacity.
Thanks in advance for any input, Mike
The only possible help I see in my Haynes manual is in the chassis electrical system diagrams that mention that each motor for power doors or lift gates contains an (ECB) or electronic circuit breaker. However nowhere does it tell me where this blinking motor should be or how to get to it so I can check the ECB
The Haynes manual also mentions a solid-state control module but once again no information on where it might be located or how to trouble shoot it.
The only thing I can add that might help here is that if you leave the door open and place the mini-van in gear the warning buzzer still buzzes.
I have scoured the forums and not found any help for this problem. If someone could help me out I would really appreciate it.
I have also placed this request for help in the “GM's triplets: Venture, Silhouette, and Montana” forum.
Thanks,
Gary
I also have a '94 minivan. I just had a new battery put in the vehicle and the power door no longer works. My symptoms are very similar to yours. I can add one other fact. This happened once before when I had some electrical work done on the vehicle and one day it mysteriously started working again.
If you get any responses, I would love to hear the answer. I do not think it is mechanical. I think their is some kind of reset switch somewhere in the vehicle.
Ryan
Perhaps it is a mysterious electrical issue but I found the motor it is over the right rear wheel well. To get to it simply pop the snaps on the trim and it comes right off.
I applied a voltmeter to the motor connections and when you depress the open buttons no juice to the motor.
Hope someone has an answer it is almost impossible fro my kids to get the door opened or closed.
Gary
n7don in the gm triplets forum posted a great response to my problem and it works great now. here is the link if I can get it right.
n7don, "GM's triplets: Venture, Silhouette, and Montana" #1226, 15 Sep 2005 6:06 pm
Gary
TO ALL FORUM MEMBERS:
Before I bought this car, I read through the entire forum, and I'd like to thank all of you (and Edmunds) for the great information you all provided. - Jim
As for coolant leaks, how about this revelation, on top of the engine there appears to be a high pressure water line that has a plastic coupling. I am still losing fluid and this area around the coupling was never wet as the fluid went directly to the manifold cover and was vaporised(hence the odour). the extremely fine spray from the plastic coupling is on the side opposite side of viewing when looking straight on at engine, It appears that the replacement part is a dealer item and one has to have Spiderman characteristics to undo the the pipe.
As for water on the floor under passenger and driver, I sealed around top of windshield where there were to potential points of entry as well as sealing around the rubber. :surprise:
Cheryl
Apparently this got the dreaded intake/ head gasket sickness as it was super overheated. Water in oil, coolant was like dark brown syrup... what little bit came out.
Question... I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar to remove 2 of the 3 front spark plugs..took out some of the threads on one of them. Could this be caused by overheating and severely distorting the heads?
In order I would check
Does it heat on defrost?
- Vacume motor that controls heat damper is not working, stuck to cool setting
- Your heater core is possibly clogged (doubtful)
Dirk
Sparkplugs - maybe were replaced w/o anti-seize on threads. Common mistake w/aluminum heads. Too bad, sounds like it caused some damage that will be effort/$ to fix.
D
I HAVE A 1997 OLDS SILHOUETTE.BOTH OF MY FRONT POWER SEATS QUIT
WORKING AT THE SAME TIME. FUSES -CIRCUIT BRAKERS GOOD.
EVEN HAVE POWER TO THE SWITCHES. BUT SEATS DO NOTHING, LIKE THEY ARE GETTING NO POWER??ALSO THE POWER DOOR JUST MAKES A CLICKING SOUND IN THE REAR, NO MOVEMENT?
ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN CHECK FOR???
THANKS
Rundown:
Replace Tension belt: $180
Air Filter: 42.20
Inductioner (might be wrong about this one) $95.00
Intake Manifold gasket: $943.00
etc, etc, Total about $1300
I'm having them replace the belt alone for now and will take it to a mechanic friend of mine who is fair, but not cheap either. Any thoughts of this guys/gals? Is there a way i can get GM to pick up some of the load or anything else I can do besides sucking it up at the dealership?
Car has 44 thousand miles on it and is my mother's sole mode of tranpsort to work.
Thanks!
~Chris
who hates silhouettes if it costs him more than a thousand.
thanks! Mark :confuse: