Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I have a 2001 Olds Silo Prem w/63k miles. The driver's heated seat is not working. The light on the dash comes on and all fuses check out OK. Does anyone no what could be the problem? My haynes manual does not mention the heated seats at all. If it is the heating element, I noted from another post that this is a $45 part and 1.7 hours of labor. Is this a do-it-yourself job? Dealer gets $90/hour here. And you never know what you are going to get going some place else (for nearly the same price or more after f/ups fixed). Passenger heated seat works fine.
Also, I had the lower gasket replaced just out of warranty (that hurt). Then I noticed coolant leaking near the top of the engine in the vicinity of the water pump although I could not find the exact source of the leak. Oil has always checked out OK when changing it - no sign of any coolant in it at all. I went ahead and changed the waterpump (skipped draining the radiator step). Topped off the reservoir and bled the system. No more leaking and the reservoir has maintained a constant level for well over 1k miles now. I am keeping my fingers crossed on the upper intake gasket. The water pump was quite easy to change - a pleasant surprise. It was harder changing the battery!
Any way, we have really enjoyed this van and have had relatively few problems. I am thinking about trading out because it seems like more problems are starting to happen. In addition to the heated seat not working (and the wife loves that feature), I noticed that one of the power rear vent windows is not working. Any thoughts on that one?
Thanks
If I had to guess, I think the reason is expansion and contraction due to temperature causes the dissimilar materials to separate. With mine, the metal cap separated from the plastic housing.
Oh, sometimes if you start off from a dead stop or just after starting it it will die then crank right back. Has about 127,000 miles.
I remove the plug (yes, the bcm prgrm one), get in the car (all doors including liftgate are shut), I turn to ACC, off and back on again (within a sec.), open a door (chime) close it (chime - seems because there's a key in the ingnition), wait 14 secs, nothing. hold lock/unlock for 30 secs, nothing. Somebody help! what am I doing wrong?
I was wandering if anybody else has had the fuel lines rot out on a silhouette or venture? I have looked at two other 2000 models and have seen the same thing. I am in the middle of replacing them now. You had better sit down for this one. In order to replace these lines you must firs drop the the engine cradle out complete with engine and trans. Once in there i found that the brake lines are starting to rust out as well, as well as the power steering lines and a coolant pipe that runs around the engine. Now with all this rust you are probably thinking that the car is a rot box. Not true the rest of the under carriage is fine as well as the rest of the lines that are under the car. Oh yeah the 100k spark plugs that have only 84k on them are suppose to have a .060 gap these are .188 thank god for electronic ignition. Anyhow I will post anything else that I find as I finish the job. Feel free to email me "mgcmn@optonline.net. I would be glad to answer any questions. Don't get me wrong, I have been impressed with this vehical since we bought it in 2000. Still runs s tong, 3400 is quite the little powerhouse, put many a tuner to shame.
Mamma Mobile Mechanic
It will close but will open right up unless I turn off the
switch and do it by hand there is a recall on that problem
just not for my V.I.N or year also my side mirrors stopped
working Also we have a crunching sound from the front right
when we turn
I am not 100% sure but I had an older 3800 engine in a wagon that did the same thing. It would buck and hesitate til about 1\2 to 3\4 throttle. 3\4 throttle or better it ran great, but youd better hang on. Turned out to be the Mass air flow sensor, also check its connector. Hope this helps
Magic
The intake manifold gasket is a real pain to change on this vehical. If you do some searching on the web, There was a class action suit that was being put together for this problem. It is form the use of DEX-COOL antifreeze. Apparently it reacts with the gasket material and breaks it down. It is sold as 5yr. or 100k antifreeze, but it turns to mud before this and starts clogging up your hole cooling system. I had the same problem but the car ran fine, with just a slight loss of coolant. You may want toask your mechanic friend about a STOP LEAK additive. Definitely flush your cooling system and see how bad the leak is. Good luck
Magic
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
I've had the radiator replaced about eight months ago to solve a leak. For the temperature spike problem listed above I had had the thermostat (2 times), both fans, the sensor and manifold gasket repaired last week but it didn't fix it. Please help as my mechanic is at a loss and I'm running out of funds.
Thanks in advance,
Charles
the stop plate on your main plate has worn out or bent
take off your wiper motor look at the base.there is a little piece of metal which sticks up that is the stop.
your wiper motor is missing it .just hit it back up so hit hits it again and your good to good.cheap fix for the cheap gm part..good luck its easy
the stop plate on your main plate has worn out or bent
take off your wiper motor look at the base.there is a little piece of metal which sticks up that is the stop.
your wiper motor is missing it .just hit it back up so hit hits it again and your good to good.cheap fix for the cheap gm part..good luck its easy
Thank you.
to the forum,and could not find a problem ,as this.
The sensor arm,was a repacement from the dealer.
I'd appreciate any advice or help. Thanks Gil
hi ..a hammer and screw driver will fix your problem..
the stop plate on your main plate has worn out or bent
take off your wiper motor look at the base.there is a little piece of metal which sticks up that is the stop.
your wiper motor is missing it .just hit it back up so hit hits it again and your good to good.cheap fix for the cheap gm part..good luck its easy
Thanks
Also, I'm aware from previous posts of commom condenser leak problems in the Silos and its siblings. Note# 984 mentions a repair of this leak. Can anyone help with a few questions?
1. Can this leak be fixed with something like JB Weld?
2. If I need to get a new condenser, is there any diffeence between using an OEM or Aftermarket condenser?
3. When I checked the internet for silo condensers, I found references to "front" and "rear" condensers, and also references for condensers "without dual air."
Can anyone help me with these questions?
Thanks - and also a big thanks to everyone involved in this forum, it has really helped in the past.
If you are sure the condenser is leaking, it will need to be replaced.
I wouldn't be afraid of an aftermarket condenser, especially if it's less expensive. If you know a good independent garage, ask them.
My 2000 Silo has dual air, but only one condenser in front of the radiator. Vans with dual air have two evaporators however.
My son has a 94 Olds Silhouette that has developed a low rpm engine knock. It is very loud and disipates when the rpms go up. This engine also has a frozen ac compressor and a smaller drive belt has been put on to avoid the frozen ac compressor.
With the engine running we put a wrench on the idler pulley and rotated counter clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt and the knock went away. Thinking that it was the idler pulley, we then replaced the idler pulley and belt with new parts to find that the knock was still there.
I suppose by relieving the tension on the drive belt that the pressure was also off of the alternator, water pump and power steering. We did take the alternator off and had is checked, the bearing and output is fine. The car is also not over heating nor is the water pump pully running wobbly.
At this point we would appreciate any assistance you might offer.
Thanks in advance for your assistance....
Sincerely, Straight Razor....
How is this diagnosed?
Will the compressor (and any other parts) need replacing?
What may have caused this (since things were working just fine up until today)?
What will this likely cost?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Redbarron
Relay?
Switch?
Motor?
Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks
I haven't rebuilt a power window motor in 20 years! Yuck!
I was hoping for an easy answer like "it's the switch they all do it"
Oh well.