You can get rid of tire vibration by going to http://www.gsp9700.com and clicking on "Find a GSP9700 Near You" and taking your car to a shop that will rebalance the tires with the GSP9700. Spend some time reading the material at the GSP9700 site and you will understand why it is needed and you can make sure the mechanic uses the machine correctly. You are looking for a road force variation of under 15 pounds. Even lower is better, with typical numbers being 3-10 pounds. If a tire can't meet that spec, have it replaced under warranty.
Driving a car with an unbalanced tire will soon create an irregular wear pattern in the tire that will cause the tire to become very noisy as it wears, even if you rebalance the tire, so get the tires properly balanced as soon as possible.
your ride impressions are almost the same as mine. serene, I wonder if the VRX is less so. It has a tighter suspension. Gas mileage is good and so is power. I agree the structure is not as solid as some newer cars but that's easily accountable to platform age.
was at a dealer today checking out the new Galant. I always liked the Diamante, having rented several in the past, so I also looked at them. Then I noticed they were all new 2002's. Is this common? What kind of money should these go for ($29,700 sticker) Are these the "new" ones that past posters are seeing for $19,000. Or should they be less. kinda peaked my intrest.
had new rotors installed today and specifically asked for hand torqueing....picked the car up and checked the torque using my new craftsman torque wrench and found some of my lugs were over 140 foot pounds....retorqued all the wheels myself using the information received in mr. vivona's diamond and pearls article...i hope this helps...keep up the good work mr. vivona and keep writing those informative articles.
charlie1970200 - Your experience is not at all uncommon. As I have posted recently, and in the past, EVERY time I have had a mechanic remove and replace wheels on EVERY car I have owned, despite my insistence that they use a torque wrench, they do it wrong and I find nuts tightened all over the range, from 30 to over 200 ft lbs. Mechanics do not understand the physics of nut tightening and either continue pulling on the torque wrench after it clicks, or they first overtighten the nuts with an impact wrench or extension bar, then put the torque wrench on it and it clicks and they think they have done it right.
Just today a co-worker asked me to pick her up at a tire dealer where she was dropping her car off to have the tires rotated. When she got her car back I told her about lug nut tightening and offered to check hers (I always have my torque wrench in the trunk). I found nuts tightened from 30 to 142 ft lbs. Had I not retorqued her lug nuts, she would have had brake pulsation problems in 3-4K miles. I get a free lunch for helping her!
This is a problem that will not go away, so the best thing an owner can do is immediately retorque the lug nuts anytime after a mechanic has removed and replaced the wheels. Now the bad news... many other types other work done by a mechanic involves nuts and bolts and they overtighten those, too. I have had oil drain plugs stripped out, grease fittings broken off, etc. over the years. That is why I do all my own work now. And doing my own work I believe contributes greatly to the fact that I can easily get over 100,000 trouble-free miles on a car.
I have a 96 D I just bought 2nd hand here in NZ. I seem to have the following issues that I would be grateful if someone could throw some light on.
1) Incredibly huge amount of tyre roar at about 50knph - I first thought it may be the bearings but the dealer insists it is the tyres which incidentally are Dunlop Mud & Snow tyres - Any ideas???
2)The radio antenna is embedded in the rear windscreen - it is not very effective in picking up the radio stations I most often listen to and they continually fade and are scratchy. Also because the car is a Japanese import I had to fit a FM band expander to the radio which means all stations jump by 12MHz in the frequency displayed - should I simply fit a normal antenna to the radio??
3) One of the speakers (Right Driver side front)is awfully scratchy - upon opening it up I found the voice coil detached from the paper cone - should I just glue this back to the cone or what??
I need your expertise please! I took my car in yesterday to have the weatherstripping and glovebox replaced and get the wheels aligned. The wind noise is still there! Since I'm friends with the guy who did the work, I talked to him online to see what he found. He said he did hear the noise but felt it was the mirror making the noise because the pitch of the noise changed when folding the mirror in. He also noted that pushing out on the weatherstrip no longer stops the noise as it did previously. The noise is quieter and starts at a higher speed then before (so the weatherstrip was bad), but its still there and the driver's door doesn't make any noise at all. I asked him about the alignment of the piece you referred to as the "delta" piece. He said he doesn't think its adjustable but he will look into it for me. Do you know how this piece adjusts and whether it does for sure? As far as I know the door and window are in proper alignment. He really is at a loss for how to get rid of the noise but I'm not gonna listen to the racket in a 30k car. Would masking off certain areas around the window help me pinpoint where the noise is coming from? Any info is greatly appreciated!
p.s. How does your glovebox work? Does it slowly extend to the fully open position no matter how empty or full it is? The old box on my car dropped immediately as if it had no damping. The new one drops slowly to the halfway open mark and then stops. You have to push down on it a little to get it to drop all the way open. Granted this was with nothing in it. My buddy told me it does have a spring but give it a little time to break in. He felt it was operating normally. I'm just curious if it is. Slowly extending to the halfway mark is at least better then dropping down and bangin my knees
I took my car back in today (uuggh) and it looks like I finally got the wind noise fixed! My poor buddy said he was pullin his hair out trying to fix it so I guess it was a bear to figure out. Here's what he did: he adjusted the up stop point of the window, the front pitch of the window, the delta sash panel, and sealed the outside delta sash cover. We both think sealing the delta cover is what fixed the problem. I thought the gap was rather wide on that panel. Anyway, so far, no more wind noise! What a hassle to get fixed, but I'm hoping this is the last of my problems.
An interesting side note: the service lady said they service quite a few Diamantes because the owners tend to hold on to them longer. She also said they are fiercely loyal to the car, often trading one D in for another. This tells me the D is a reliable car that holds up well. I just hope mine does.
Hello...You may want to sit down and set your coffee aside because you will be having a hearty laugh when you read this and I would not want to be responsible for burns...here goes...Bought a 1999 D new and at 9k I smelled a oil based burn coming from the engine area. The dealer added dye and found that a head gasket was leaking. Ok, so I am a little depressed but it was under warranty and I do like the car so they replaced the gasket. Haven't ever used this phrase but I indeed was a happy camper as I left the dealer knowing that my problem had been solved. I was concerned about the resale potential with a large blemish like a head gasket on record, but I do like the car and had no intention of selling it. At 17k I pulled into the garage and as I was admiring the Burma black paint up close I noticed a smell much like the first one I had from the same area under the hood. To the dealer I go with a heavy heart and after dye they discover the gasket is leaking again. What can a guy do?..I got all the assurences from the dealer that the problem was probably a faulty gasket. So they replaced the gasket again and about all I had to offer was asking that they confirm that the head was not warped and that the block was flat. Little did I know, but the dealer had contacted the factory and they were instructed to replace both head gaskets in anticipation that the 'good' one would soon fail. So now , finally the car is tight and with only 17k and the fact that I do like the car and the idea of trying to sell a vehicle for any value that has had three head gaskets installed,I drive off into happy motoringville...that is until two weeks ago and yes you guessed it, another head gasket leaking...at 36k I am under the powertrain warranty, but what, other than checking for flat surfaces and making sure the tech allows the cure of the sealent can a person do? I mean I do like the car..sort of.....thanks for any help.....T
TIRE NOISE - Excessive tire roar is most likely due to irregular tread segment wear. Run your flat hand over the tire tread and you will most likely feel it is scalloped. You will feel a difference as you feel the tread in each direction. The wear is usually the greatest on the outside edge(s) of the tread. Irregular wear can come from failure to rotate tires or from an unbalanced tire. If the tire is feathered in one direction, then that is caused by an out of alignment suspension. The only cure is to replace the tires, but be sure to find and correct the original problem first. The new tires should be balanced on a Hunter GSP9700 to assure a good balance.
ANTENNA - I am not totally familiar with the antenna arrangement on the 96. If the antenna is only in the rear window glass, then reception will not be as good as with a regular rod antenna. Be sure to check all connections before adding a separate antenna. Your problem may merely be a bad connection. Don't forget to check the film wiring on the surface of the glass. Also, if there is a metallic window tint on the glass, that could be causing your problem.
If your Diamante did not ever have a rod antenna, you will have to drill the mounting hole. Remove the trunk lining and check for mounting clearance before deciding where to drill. Be sure to paint over the bare metal edge of the new hole to prevent rust. You can usually get motorized antennas at many auto parts stores for less than $50. Non-motorized antennas are even cheaper and easier to install. Remove the wiring from the window glass antenna and connect it to the new rod antenna. Make sure you use coaxial antenna cable for the entire run.
SPEAKER NOISE - If the cone has come loose from the voice coil, you can re-glue it with Elmer's white glue. Make sure the cone is centered so the voice coil is not pulled off center. Another common cause of speaker rattle is disintegration of the foam surrounding the cone. You can get replacement foam with an instructional video at www.wooferrepair.com for about $20.
As to the glove box, on both my 1999 and 2002 the glove box drops freely when opened. I am pretty sure the 2003 works the same. If you glove box is openly slowly, it may be rubbing against something under the dash. Check the glove box of another 2003 at the dealer to see how it acts.
To be sure, are you talking about the head gasket or the cam cover gasket? The head gasket goes between the head and block. The cam cover gasket (also called rocker cover gasket) goes on top of the head and its failure is often the cause of oil leaks.
Neither the head gasket nor the cam cover gasket should be failing unless the mechanic is doing something wrong during installation or there is a problem with the surfaces that the gasket is sealing. If it is the cam cover gasket, a clogged PCV valve (though not likely) can build up crankcase pressures and force out oil.
You need to have a good mechanic diagnose and fix the problem for good. This is not a common problem for a Diamante.
Thanks for the thoughts on my engine issue. It does appear to be the cylinder head gasket because that, along with the inlet manifold, air intake and rocker cover gaskets were ordered. This will be done at a different dealer and they seem to be genuinely concerned about the history of repairs. So,I will pay close attention to the checks of the surfaces and hope that the techs do the job right. I really do like this car. Did the XM radio install a few months ago..a real pleasure to have..T
I have not had such a problem with either of my Diamantes, nor have any of my friends that own a Diamante, so I can't answer from direct experience.
I am answering this without having the manual handy, but I seem to recall that the weatherstrip is held in place by clips and grooves. If that is the case, try using a black automotive silicone glue to glue the weatherstrip in place. I have had excellent luck with that type of glue for weatherstrips. Remove the weatherstrip in the area that comes loose, thoroughly clean the weatherstrip and contact area with alcohol, then dry it. Then apply an even bead of silicone on the underside of the weatherstrip and push everything back together. Clean up any silicone that shows. Don't apply any stress to the glued area until it has had a day or two to dry.
Also, see if the weatherstrip is being pulled out of place by the action of the window when you close the door. Perhaps the window glass needs adjusting.
So far so good. I'm almost to 3k and the first oil change. I finally got my bottle of touchup that the selling dealer owed me. It took them over a month to get it to me. I slammed them good on the JDpower survey I installed OEM front mud flaps which were a simple bolt on process and greatly reduced the amount of crud thrown up on the front doors, but will need to drill holes to install the rear flaps If I had something to complain about it would be the high insurance rate on this car. My "sports car" 03 Tiburon is cheaper to insure then the Diamante! Replacing my 02 Lancer with the D increased my insurance $300 per 6 months.
As for the rear defroster, has anyone noticed how slow it is? It takes a long time to clear frost from the window. My Tiburon's has the whole window cleared up in the time it takes the D to clear 1/8. I've heard Japanese cars have slow defrosters but this is a little sad.
Recently I switched jobs and no longer have to drive 30 miles a day to a suburban location and the train is much more convenient and hassle free to my new location in d'town Chicago. I had a 2000 Lexus RX 300 and since it sat in my garage 70% of the time, I figured I didn't need the weight of those monthly payments anymore. In my consideration set for a used car were Accords, Camry's and the Diamonte as my neighbor is a car nut and said it was one of the best deals out there for price/value. I drove a number of A's and C's and they are what you'd expect for a $12K price range. Reliable but so BORING. So, it came down to a 2000 Camry with about 50K on it, but "certified" through the Toyota dealership and a 2001, Silver "D" LS, with 52K from the Mitsu dealership, which they had listed for about $1,000 more than the Camry. In the end, there was no contest with the price vs. value equation and I bought the D. Paid a little over $11K for it and it is in exceptionally clean condition. As I am now a member of said "club", I'd like to ask this question: Should I get the ATF changed now or wait until the big 60K check-up. The weather stripping on the rear passenger side window also came undone from its channel. I suspect the dealer will be able to fix this annoyance. Thanks in advance for your help with this. I suspect I won't be able to offer much if anything, as far as helpful hints on this post, but REALLY appreciate the guidance that I'll get from finding all of you. Let the journey begin.
In normal service, the ATF is okay for the life of the car. In severe service, you change it every 24,000 miles. Since you do not know the history of the car, I would change it at 60,000 miles. Remember to have this done only at the dealer and insist that they only use the exact Mitsubishi ATF as specified in your owner's manual. The Mitsubishi ATF is specially formulated to work in your transmission. Use of other brands of ATF will result in transmission problems, usually torque converter shudder.
At 60,000 miles you also want to change the timing belt, air cleaner element, spark plugs, ignition cables, coolant and drive belts. Have them inspect the distributor cap and rotor, brake components, CV joint boots, suspension parts, fuel system and exhaust system, replacing anything that they find defective. That way you are up to date with all services and can then just keep the car up to date from that point on with the service recommendations listed in your owner's manual.
To assure the longevity of you leather seats, clean with Lexol cleaner and condition with Lexol conditioner every 3 months. Lexol's vinyl protectant, called Vinylex, is your best choice for keeping the interior vinyl looking great. Remember that only the parts of the seats that touch your back and bottom are leather and need Lexol. The backs of the front seats, all headrests, the door trim and all other parts that may look like leather are actually vinyl and need Vinylex.
If you want to save a bundle on your 60,000 service, consider buying all your parts from a dealer that sells online at wholesale and just having your local dealer do the labor. Check www.parts.com to find a Mitsubishi wholesale parts dealer. Before doing so, find out if your dealer will have issues with installing parts from another source. As an alternate, you may try printing out and showing them the wholesale prices you can get the parts for and negotiating the same parts deal with your local dealer.
And, anytime you have anybody touch your wheels (tire rotation, brakes, etc.), assume they will overtorque the lug nuts and retorque them according to my article at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm
Car so far, runs great. It, does not, however smell so great. The previous owner was a smoker and it didn't seem so bad when I was just test driving the car. I requested that the dealer perform a thorough cleansing of the interior, which they did. And . . . it still smells of too many unfiltered Lucky's. I suspect I've got to steam clean/shampoo the entire interior including the headliner. Anything else I can/should do to get the smoke out? Car is a 2001 LS.
bige4 -- The smell of smoke is indeed disgusting. It puzzles me how a person can make an intelligent choice to smoke, but that is not the topic for this forum.
In addition to thoroughly vacuuming and cleaning all interior fabrics, including the headliner, try spraying the headliner and all carpeting with Fabreeze. Test a small area first to make sure that the Fabreeze doesn't discolor the fabric. I don't think Fabreeze works on leather, vinyl or plastic. Read the label.
For the leather surfaces, use Lexol cleaner and conditioner. For the vinyl and plastic surfaces, use Vinylex.
Also, if the smell of smoke is coming from your A/C ducts, try running the A/C on high and spraying some Lysol into the air intake, but be careful to not get any on your paint.
Driving with all windows open and the A/C on fresh air can also help air out the car and maybe take some of the smoke with it.
Has anyone noticed how slow the wipers work on high speed? I haven't encountered it personally but the other half complained loudly about how slow the high speed wipers are and how they weren't able to clear the windshield at all in a downpour. Apparently, they are much slower then the Lancer's. I wonder why?
The antilock brake warning light is on steady and the traction control light flashes until I push the traction control off button, then both lights stay on steady. Can you put jumper wire in the scan plug to obtain a code as to which wheel sensor is a problem? Where is this plug and what code should I be looking for??
I changed the oil yesterday on my D. Boy was that oil filter a bear to get off! They really put them on tight from the factory. I struggled with it for a good 15 minutes and ended up crushing it some. The oil drain bolt is also unusually large (15/16). I had to call the dealer to find out the size of the bolt and then buy a $10 wrench just to get the darn thing off!
One disappointment: the cargo net's attachment point broke off! The plastic hook screws on a plastic stud. This stud snapped off inside the hook! So now the cargo net is useless (in all honestly, they put the cargo net in a stupid spot to begin with. It should be in the middle of the trunk, not right up against the latch). Anyone know how to fix it? I'm sure its under warranty but its a stupid thing to have to take in.
Oh yea, I encountered first hand the slow wipers on Friday. This car was not designed for Florida's downpours. I slowed down to 30 mph and pressed myself up against the steering wheel and still couldn't see the road in front of me. The only gauge I had that I was still in my lane was the headlights from oncoming traffic. Very very dangerous! Shame on Mitsu for giving such an expensive car pitiful wipers! I'm gonna ask my Mitsu buddy if there is any way I can install the better wiper motor from the Lancer or any other Mitsu product.
The OBDII code connector is under the dash, just below the ignition switch. You have to crawl under the dash and look up for a small multi-pin connector. It is very risky to try to contact the pins directly in the connector because you can accidentally short pins and as luck would have it, you would short ones that would result in a damaged computer. In most cases, the code is not read by a voltmeter or flashing light, but with a special scan tool that has an alphanumeric readout.
The best way to read a code is to get a code reader designed to handle OBDII codes, plus codes for ABS and other systems. Read all about OBDII at http://www.actron.com/ but I do not believe any of their readers will read ABS codes. You will have do web searches for "ABS code reader" to find one that reads the ABS codes and make sure it includes the Mitsubishi Diamante.
You can check standard codes on the Actron site. Mitsubishi specific codes are listed in the Diamante service manual. If I get a chance to look, I will let you know the ABS codes.
You may also want to try the $25 annual service at http://www.alldatadiy.com/ which will tell you if you can retrieve codes any way other than with a code reader or scan tool. It might also tell you how to troubleshoot your ABS system.
Rather than try to read a code, you can check an ABS sensor by disconnecting it and putting a sensitive AC voltmeter across the terminals coming FROM the sensor (not going TO the computer). You do this with the car turned off and up on jack stands. Spinning the wheel should result in a few millivolts of AC voltage. Compare the amount at each wheel to see if one is different.
Let me know what you find. In the meantime, I'll try to get some time in my hectic schedule to look up the ABS codes.
I've been looking at the Australian website and am shocked how much more Mitsu offers on their version of the Diamante. They are able to get side airbags, 5 speed automatic, 17" wheels, and all wheel drive! The side airbags alone would make a huge improvement in how the Diamante compares in the safety department. I don't understand why Mitsu didn't bring them over for 04, especially considering the US's infatuation with safety. The 5 speed auto would help bring it up to speed technology wise and improve the value equation. Offering the all wheel drive as an option would give the Diamante something unique in the class and help it stand out a bit more. I personally wouldn't go for the all wheel drive but I'm sure some people would love the option of a large reasonably priced luxury car with good all weather traction. I know Mitsu has been neglecting this car for far too long, but when the technology is already there, why not use it?
Do you guys think Mitsu is just going to let this car die and not replace it or is there a chance they may reinvent their luxury car? If they do redesign it, when can we expect a new one? The fact Mitsu recognizes the loyalty of Diamante owners should give them enough incentive to keep selling the car. I just hope they don't give up like Mazda did with the Millenia. There is a place for inexpensive "executive" class luxury cars. Not everyone wants to spend big bucks for a European nameplate that is often small and more oriented towards a firm sporty ride.
I had a chance to consult the Diamante service manual. It turns out that Mitsubishi did provide a way to read ABS codes. You ground Pin 1 of the OBDII connector, turn the ignition on and then read the flashing ABS light.
There are too many ABS codes to list here, so if you get any post them and I will look them up for you.
Who here is saying the Diamante competes with those cars? Neither the TL nor the G35 were in my sightlines when I purchased the Diamante. I don't think those cars are even in the same class because they are more sports oriented. The Diamante's real competitors are the Avalon, XG350, Amanti, I35, and Maxima. I recognize its old tech, but its still a competent luxury ride. I just hope Mitsu plans on giving us an all new Diamante no later then 06 and something that is better looking then the 04 D and Galant.
2006 Mitsubishi Diamante: Redesign on Project America platform shared by the Eclipse, Endeavor, and Galant. ----------------------------------- This is not unlike the ES300, TL and I35 being based on the platforms of the Camry, Accord and Maxima. Manufacturers are getting better about using one platform to create different cars with different characteristics. The 2006 Diamante is supposed to be on a stretched version of the Project America platform.
It is likely that the production of the 2006 Diamante will shift to the American plant. For now, I think that the Australia plant produces better quality so I hope the American plant does a better job by 2006, or production stays with Australia. The only downside with Australia is the on-again, off-again attitude Mitsubishi Japan has had in the past regarding the future of producing cars in Australia. That probably has a lot to do with Mitsubishi Motors America being low-key about the current Diamante. Switching to American production would give them more confidence in promoting the car.
Ok, I'm beginning to get a little worried about the build quality of the Australian plant. At 3500 miles, my wipers are now making an odd crunching/popping/rubbing marble-to-marble bearing like sound (hard to describe, but it's pretty loud). It's definitely not the wiper blades, but something in the wiper arms or motor.
I also had a question concerning the windshield washer. Mine takes a real long time to start spraying and it doesn't seem to have a very strong spray. The wipers make about 2 whole sweeps (I'm talking up/down - up/down) of the windshield before the spray comes out and then when it does it seems weak. Is this normal or is my washer just too weak?
I forgot to also ask a question concerning the leather. My driver's seat has started turning black on the seat bottom. I realize leather needs to be cleaned periodically, but the amount of sooty film showing on the seats isn't consistent with only 2 months of ownership. Or is it? It just seems like its becoming discolored rather rapidly.
I will try your suggestion and post back to you my findings on Sunday. We are turning this car in for a Galant GTS this week. We have had 3 D's a 93 wagon, 1997, 2000, and want somthing different despite great deals on 03 D's.
I'm needing to refill my powersteering fluid every week or so due to an apparent leak in the Power Steering. Everything was fine with the steering until a few weeks after my last Mitsubishi Service visit, needless to say I don't really trust them. Now, they want over $800 bucks to replace the steering rack. However, the car is a 1998 Diamante ES and has 100K on it. I don't have the money for the repairs and refilling the fluid brings the steering back to normal and the grinding noise when the fluid is low goes away. My question is, notwithstanding the mess this is leaving on my garage floor, can I just keep filling this steering pump with fluid indefinitely to avoid paying the hefty repair bill or is there something I can do to repair this somehow? The PS fluid is pretty cheap and one bottle usual covers me for a month or so. Maybe I can wrap the PS hose?
When I asked the Mitsu service how this kind of problem could happen, their answer was something like 'well, these things sometimes just start leaking at around this mileage, nothing you can do about it really but replace the rack', or something to that effect.
Once you get past the warranty period on your car your basically on your own. Your better off going to a local garage than going to customer service after your warranty is expired.
With the car still under warranty you need to take it in and have them diagnose and fix what is making the noise with the wiper mechanicals. The washer is supposed to spray the windshield before the wiper blades start moving to prevent scratching the glass with dry blades. Obviously, something is preventing this. That could be a clog in the fluid line or pickup, or a defective pump or motor. Either way, that should be fixed under warranty.
As to the leather, what color do you have? Both of my Diamantes have the gray interior and do not show any discoloration, with the oldest being 5 years old. A tan seat will probably show dirt easier. Watch out for black pants or belts that get wet. I once found black marks on the bottom of the seatback and traced it to a black leather belt that I was wearing one day when I got caught in the rain. The rain caused the belt to bleed its black dye. I was able to remove it with Lexol Cleaner.
I recommend cleaning the leather seats every three months with Lexol Leather Cleaner, followed with Lexol Leather Conditioner. Spot clean and condition any discoloration found in between regular treatments. The leather surfaces are the parts of the seat you body touches, but not the bottom of the back of the seat back or the outside sections of the cushion sides. The headrests, console cover, door "pleather" and all other interior surfaces are vinyl or plastic and should be treated with Vinylex.
The first thing you need to do if find exactly where the fluid is leaking from. That involves cleaning all parts of the hydraulic components of the power steering system and then waiting a few days and looking for the fresh leak.
If the leak is from a hose, that is the cheapest repair. A leaky pump will be the next most expensive repair. A leaking rack is the most expensive repair. So just replacing the rack is not appropriate unless it has been diagnosed that the rack is leaking. Racks usually leak from the internal seals and drip out of the ends. If it turns out to be the rack, you can buy one at wholesale at one of the Mitsubishi dealers that lists on www.parts.com. You'll have to have a dealer install it unless you are mechanically skilled yourself.
You can continue to just add power steering fluid and put off the repair, but check to see what is getting wet by the leak. You don't want a leaking hose to be dripping down on a brake caliper, or worse yet the exhaust system. The leak won't get better, and probably will get worse, so if you are going to keep the car, consider replacing the leaking part now, not later.
If it is definitely the rack, consider trying a leak stop product like http://www.prestone.com/products/43.htm to see if it helps. These types of products are a last ditch effort to put off a repair, so don't just assume it is the rack and use the leak stop. If it is only a hose or fitting, it is best to replace the leaking part.
For the tips on the power steering leak. I haven't cleaned things up to tell where the leak is for sure, but based on the spots inside the garage (which was clean before the leak), it's coming from the front-left tire (right inside and behind it). No other leaks are visible on the concrete. The service center did check it out at my request and they claim it's the rack, but I don't trust them at all. Lately the car has made a rattle noise during normal acceleration from around 800rpm to just under 2000. I'm thinkin it's power steering related.
I took my D in on Saturday. They couldn't find anything wrong with the wiper. I didn't think they would since the noise mysteriously stopped. As for the washer, they said both washer nozzles are plugged up so they ordered new nozzles. I knew the pitiful spray couldn't be right. Odd that both were plugged up. As for the broken mount for the cargo net, get this..Can you believe they have to REWELD the mount? All I thought happened was the plastic stud broke off inside the plastic hook. Apparently, the mount also has a piece of metal that is welded to the frame of the car and this broke off. The dealer is in the process of buying a new welding machine so lord knows when that will be fixed. So all I really got out of over 2 hours waiting at the dealer was a car wash. But hey, it sure needed it! LOL
Vivona, thanks for your insight. Your help is always most appreciated. My car has gray leather by the way. I was able to clean the black markings off the seat. I think it was dye that rubbed off of black pants. I just hope it won't get that dirty under normal circumstances.
Comments
Driving a car with an unbalanced tire will soon create an irregular wear pattern in the tire that will cause the tire to become very noisy as it wears, even if you rebalance the tire, so get the tires properly balanced as soon as possible.
Mr. Vivona
We got about 24/25 on our xmas roadtrip.
I would love to see a Galant / Diamante comparo.
Just today a co-worker asked me to pick her up at a tire dealer where she was dropping her car off to have the tires rotated. When she got her car back I told her about lug nut tightening and offered to check hers (I always have my torque wrench in the trunk). I found nuts tightened from 30 to 142 ft lbs. Had I not retorqued her lug nuts, she would have had brake pulsation problems in 3-4K miles. I get a free lunch for helping her!
This is a problem that will not go away, so the best thing an owner can do is immediately retorque the lug nuts anytime after a mechanic has removed and replaced the wheels. Now the bad news... many other types other work done by a mechanic involves nuts and bolts and they overtighten those, too. I have had oil drain plugs stripped out, grease fittings broken off, etc. over the years. That is why I do all my own work now. And doing my own work I believe contributes greatly to the fact that I can easily get over 100,000 trouble-free miles on a car.
Mr. Vivona
I have a 96 D I just bought 2nd hand here in NZ. I seem to have the following issues that I would be grateful if someone could throw some light on.
1) Incredibly huge amount of tyre roar at about 50knph - I first thought it may be the bearings but the dealer insists it is the tyres which incidentally are Dunlop Mud & Snow tyres - Any ideas???
2)The radio antenna is embedded in the rear windscreen - it is not very effective in picking up the radio stations I most often listen to and they continually fade and are scratchy. Also because the car is a Japanese import I had to fit a FM band expander to the radio which means all stations jump by 12MHz in the frequency displayed - should I simply fit a normal antenna to the radio??
3) One of the speakers (Right Driver side front)is awfully scratchy - upon opening it up I found the voice coil detached from the paper cone - should I just glue this back to the cone or what??
Many thanks for any tips... Cheers
p.s. How does your glovebox work? Does it slowly extend to the fully open position no matter how empty or full it is? The old box on my car dropped immediately as if it had no damping. The new one drops slowly to the halfway open mark and then stops. You have to push down on it a little to get it to drop all the way open. Granted this was with nothing in it. My buddy told me it does have a spring but give it a little time to break in. He felt it was operating normally. I'm just curious if it is. Slowly extending to the halfway mark is at least better then dropping down and bangin my knees
An interesting side note: the service lady said they service quite a few Diamantes because the owners tend to hold on to them longer. She also said they are fiercely loyal to the car, often trading one D in for another. This tells me the D is a reliable car that holds up well. I just hope mine does.
Haven't ever used this phrase but I indeed was a happy camper as I left the dealer knowing that my problem had been solved. I was concerned about the resale potential with a large blemish like a head gasket on record, but I do like the car and had no intention of selling it. At 17k I pulled into the garage and as I was admiring the Burma black paint up close I noticed a smell much like the first one I had from the same area under the hood. To the dealer I go with a heavy heart and after dye they discover the gasket is leaking again.
What can a guy do?..I got all the assurences from the dealer that the
problem was probably a faulty gasket. So they replaced the gasket again and about all I had to offer was asking that they confirm that the head was not warped and that the block was flat. Little did I know, but the dealer had contacted the factory and they were instructed to replace both head gaskets in anticipation that the 'good' one would soon fail. So now , finally the car is tight and with only 17k and the fact that I do like the car and the idea of trying to sell a vehicle for any value that has had three head gaskets installed,I drive off into happy motoringville...that is until two weeks ago and yes you guessed it, another head gasket leaking...at 36k I am under the powertrain warranty, but what, other than checking for flat surfaces and making sure the tech allows the cure of the sealent can a person do? I mean I do like the car..sort of.....thanks for any help.....T
ANTENNA - I am not totally familiar with the antenna arrangement on the 96. If the antenna is only in the rear window glass, then reception will not be as good as with a regular rod antenna. Be sure to check all connections before adding a separate antenna. Your problem may merely be a bad connection. Don't forget to check the film wiring on the surface of the glass. Also, if there is a metallic window tint on the glass, that could be causing your problem.
If your Diamante did not ever have a rod antenna, you will have to drill the mounting hole. Remove the trunk lining and check for mounting clearance before deciding where to drill. Be sure to paint over the bare metal edge of the new hole to prevent rust. You can usually get motorized antennas at many auto parts stores for less than $50. Non-motorized antennas are even cheaper and easier to install. Remove the wiring from the window glass antenna and connect it to the new rod antenna. Make sure you use coaxial antenna cable for the entire run.
SPEAKER NOISE - If the cone has come loose from the voice coil, you can re-glue it with Elmer's white glue. Make sure the cone is centered so the voice coil is not pulled off center. Another common cause of speaker rattle is disintegration of the foam surrounding the cone. You can get replacement foam with an instructional video at www.wooferrepair.com for about $20.
Mr. Vivona
As to the glove box, on both my 1999 and 2002 the glove box drops freely when opened. I am pretty sure the 2003 works the same. If you glove box is openly slowly, it may be rubbing against something under the dash. Check the glove box of another 2003 at the dealer to see how it acts.
Mr. Vivona
Neither the head gasket nor the cam cover gasket should be failing unless the mechanic is doing something wrong during installation or there is a problem with the surfaces that the gasket is sealing. If it is the cam cover gasket, a clogged PCV valve (though not likely) can build up crankcase pressures and force out oil.
You need to have a good mechanic diagnose and fix the problem for good. This is not a common problem for a Diamante.
Mr. Vivona
that, along with the inlet manifold, air intake and rocker cover gaskets were ordered. This will be done at a different dealer and they seem to be genuinely concerned about the history of repairs. So,I will pay close attention to the checks of the surfaces and hope that the techs do the job right. I really do like this car. Did the XM radio
install a few months ago..a real pleasure to have..T
darn frameless windows!
is there a PERMANENT fix for this minor annoying deal?
(if this is my biggest gripe in two diamantes....)
I am answering this without having the manual handy, but I seem to recall that the weatherstrip is held in place by clips and grooves. If that is the case, try using a black automotive silicone glue to glue the weatherstrip in place. I have had excellent luck with that type of glue for weatherstrips. Remove the weatherstrip in the area that comes loose, thoroughly clean the weatherstrip and contact area with alcohol, then dry it. Then apply an even bead of silicone on the underside of the weatherstrip and push everything back together. Clean up any silicone that shows. Don't apply any stress to the glued area until it has had a day or two to dry.
Also, see if the weatherstrip is being pulled out of place by the action of the window when you close the door. Perhaps the window glass needs adjusting.
Mr. Vivona
As for the rear defroster, has anyone noticed how slow it is? It takes a long time to clear frost from the window. My Tiburon's has the whole window cleared up in the time it takes the D to clear 1/8. I've heard Japanese cars have slow defrosters but this is a little sad.
At 60,000 miles you also want to change the timing belt, air cleaner element, spark plugs, ignition cables, coolant and drive belts. Have them inspect the distributor cap and rotor, brake components, CV joint boots, suspension parts, fuel system and exhaust system, replacing anything that they find defective. That way you are up to date with all services and can then just keep the car up to date from that point on with the service recommendations listed in your owner's manual.
To assure the longevity of you leather seats, clean with Lexol cleaner and condition with Lexol conditioner every 3 months. Lexol's vinyl protectant, called Vinylex, is your best choice for keeping the interior vinyl looking great. Remember that only the parts of the seats that touch your back and bottom are leather and need Lexol. The backs of the front seats, all headrests, the door trim and all other parts that may look like leather are actually vinyl and need Vinylex.
If you want to save a bundle on your 60,000 service, consider buying all your parts from a dealer that sells online at wholesale and just having your local dealer do the labor. Check www.parts.com to find a Mitsubishi wholesale parts dealer. Before doing so, find out if your dealer will have issues with installing parts from another source. As an alternate, you may try printing out and showing them the wholesale prices you can get the parts for and negotiating the same parts deal with your local dealer.
And, anytime you have anybody touch your wheels (tire rotation, brakes, etc.), assume they will overtorque the lug nuts and retorque them according to my article at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm
Good luck with your Diamante!
Mr. Vivona
THX
In addition to thoroughly vacuuming and cleaning all interior fabrics, including the headliner, try spraying the headliner and all carpeting with Fabreeze. Test a small area first to make sure that the Fabreeze doesn't discolor the fabric. I don't think Fabreeze works on leather, vinyl or plastic. Read the label.
For the leather surfaces, use Lexol cleaner and conditioner. For the vinyl and plastic surfaces, use Vinylex.
Also, if the smell of smoke is coming from your A/C ducts, try running the A/C on high and spraying some Lysol into the air intake, but be careful to not get any on your paint.
Driving with all windows open and the A/C on fresh air can also help air out the car and maybe take some of the smoke with it.
The antilock brake warning light is on steady and the traction control light flashes until I push the traction control off button, then both lights stay on steady. Can you put jumper wire in the scan plug to obtain a code as to which wheel sensor is a problem? Where is this plug and what code should I be looking for??
I should have written that the car in message 1101 is a 2000 D with 51,000 miles on it.
One disappointment: the cargo net's attachment point broke off! The plastic hook screws on a plastic stud. This stud snapped off inside the hook! So now the cargo net is useless (in all honestly, they put the cargo net in a stupid spot to begin with. It should be in the middle of the trunk, not right up against the latch). Anyone know how to fix it? I'm sure its under warranty but its a stupid thing to have to take in.
Oh yea, I encountered first hand the slow wipers on Friday. This car was not designed for Florida's downpours. I slowed down to 30 mph and pressed myself up against the steering wheel and still couldn't see the road in front of me. The only gauge I had that I was still in my lane was the headlights from oncoming traffic. Very very dangerous! Shame on Mitsu for giving such an expensive car pitiful wipers! I'm gonna ask my Mitsu buddy if there is any way I can install the better wiper motor from the Lancer or any other Mitsu product.
On that page, click on "How We Make Cars". There also is a link to "How We Make Engines".
Mr. Vivona
The best way to read a code is to get a code reader designed to handle OBDII codes, plus codes for ABS and other systems. Read all about OBDII at http://www.actron.com/ but I do not believe any of their readers will read ABS codes. You will have do web searches for "ABS code reader" to find one that reads the ABS codes and make sure it includes the Mitsubishi Diamante.
You can check standard codes on the Actron site. Mitsubishi specific codes are listed in the Diamante service manual. If I get a chance to look, I will let you know the ABS codes.
Also check out http://patriot.net/~bmcgin/scanner.html for more information on reading codes.
You may also want to try the $25 annual service at http://www.alldatadiy.com/ which will tell you if you can retrieve codes any way other than with a code reader or scan tool. It might also tell you how to troubleshoot your ABS system.
Rather than try to read a code, you can check an ABS sensor by disconnecting it and putting a sensitive AC voltmeter across the terminals coming FROM the sensor (not going TO the computer). You do this with the car turned off and up on jack stands. Spinning the wheel should result in a few millivolts of AC voltage. Compare the amount at each wheel to see if one is different.
Let me know what you find. In the meantime, I'll try to get some time in my hectic schedule to look up the ABS codes.
Mr. Vivona
Do you guys think Mitsu is just going to let this car die and not replace it or is there a chance they may reinvent their luxury car? If they do redesign it, when can we expect a new one? The fact Mitsu recognizes the loyalty of Diamante owners should give them enough incentive to keep selling the car. I just hope they don't give up like Mazda did with the Millenia. There is a place for inexpensive "executive" class luxury cars. Not everyone wants to spend big bucks for a European nameplate that is often small and more oriented towards a firm sporty ride.
There are too many ABS codes to list here, so if you get any post them and I will look them up for you.
Mr. Vivona
The Diamante is like the current Acura RL(its just dated) and not new and refined enough to compete with the likes of the Acura TL and Infiniti G35.
2006 Mitsubishi Diamante: Redesign on Project America platform shared by the Eclipse, Endeavor, and Galant.
-----------------------------------
This is not unlike the ES300, TL and I35 being based on the platforms of the Camry, Accord and Maxima. Manufacturers are getting better about using one platform to create different cars with different characteristics. The 2006 Diamante is supposed to be on a stretched version of the Project America platform.
It is likely that the production of the 2006 Diamante will shift to the American plant. For now, I think that the Australia plant produces better quality so I hope the American plant does a better job by 2006, or production stays with Australia. The only downside with Australia is the on-again, off-again attitude Mitsubishi Japan has had in the past regarding the future of producing cars in Australia. That probably has a lot to do with Mitsubishi Motors America being low-key about the current Diamante. Switching to American production would give them more confidence in promoting the car.
Mr. Vivona
I also had a question concerning the windshield washer. Mine takes a real long time to start spraying and it doesn't seem to have a very strong spray. The wipers make about 2 whole sweeps (I'm talking up/down - up/down) of the windshield before the spray comes out and then when it does it seems weak. Is this normal or is my washer just too weak?
Thank you for your time on looking up ABS codes.
I will try your suggestion and post back to you my findings on Sunday. We are turning this car in for a Galant GTS this week. We have had 3 D's a 93 wagon, 1997, 2000, and want somthing different despite great deals on 03 D's.
n6547t
When I asked the Mitsu service how this kind of problem could happen, their answer was something like 'well, these things sometimes just start leaking at around this mileage, nothing you can do about it really but replace the rack', or something to that effect.
As to the leather, what color do you have? Both of my Diamantes have the gray interior and do not show any discoloration, with the oldest being 5 years old. A tan seat will probably show dirt easier. Watch out for black pants or belts that get wet. I once found black marks on the bottom of the seatback and traced it to a black leather belt that I was wearing one day when I got caught in the rain. The rain caused the belt to bleed its black dye. I was able to remove it with Lexol Cleaner.
I recommend cleaning the leather seats every three months with Lexol Leather Cleaner, followed with Lexol Leather Conditioner. Spot clean and condition any discoloration found in between regular treatments. The leather surfaces are the parts of the seat you body touches, but not the bottom of the back of the seat back or the outside sections of the cushion sides. The headrests, console cover, door "pleather" and all other interior surfaces are vinyl or plastic and should be treated with Vinylex.
Mr. Vivona
If the leak is from a hose, that is the cheapest repair. A leaky pump will be the next most expensive repair. A leaking rack is the most expensive repair. So just replacing the rack is not appropriate unless it has been diagnosed that the rack is leaking. Racks usually leak from the internal seals and drip out of the ends. If it turns out to be the rack, you can buy one at wholesale at one of the Mitsubishi dealers that lists on www.parts.com. You'll have to have a dealer install it unless you are mechanically skilled yourself.
You can continue to just add power steering fluid and put off the repair, but check to see what is getting wet by the leak. You don't want a leaking hose to be dripping down on a brake caliper, or worse yet the exhaust system. The leak won't get better, and probably will get worse, so if you are going to keep the car, consider replacing the leaking part now, not later.
If it is definitely the rack, consider trying a leak stop product like http://www.prestone.com/products/43.htm to see if it helps. These types of products are a last ditch effort to put off a repair, so don't just assume it is the rack and use the leak stop. If it is only a hose or fitting, it is best to replace the leaking part.
Mr. Vivona
Thanks again,
chris
Vivona, thanks for your insight. Your help is always most appreciated. My car has gray leather by the way. I was able to clean the black markings off the seat. I think it was dye that rubbed off of black pants. I just hope it won't get that dirty under normal circumstances.