if you read back many posts, maybe even in part 3 of this discussion, you will find a lady named Scarlett who had some problems with that dealership also! she calls her posts "scarletts nightmare"
It's a darn good thing for Infiniti that Nissan really screwed up in designing the rear end of the new Maxima. Otherwise, there would be no other reason to buy the I-30.
Just picked up my new I30t; what a great car! However, I've noticed that when playing certain bass-intensive songs and CD's, the rear parcel shelf that supports the subwoofer rattles noticeably. I know there was a TSB issued several months ago regarding this issue, and I'm wondering if anyone has taken their vehicle into the dealer to correct this problem.
Were they able to fix it, and if so, how did they do it? Any information regarding this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I was offered a 2001 I30 Touring lease. 6 cd changer and pinstripes included. The lease is for $459/month with $ 1650 down. 48 months/48,000 miles. Is this a deal or can I do better???
Sounds like a competitive lease to me. I live in Southern California, and just got my '01 I30t with side sill spoilers for the following terms: $2500 drive off, $408/month (including tax), 42 month term, 12K miles/year. I used MSN's "Carpoint.com" to get several local dealers competing against each other, and none of the others could beat the deal I subsequently got from Santa Monica Infiniti.
I am caught up in a dilemma whether to go for an Infiniti I30 or a Lexus ES300. Had anyone driven both ? Which is superior in quality and service ? I have taken the test drive for both. The lexus seemed to be more quiet than the Infinity. But then the Infinity had a better pick up and felt very sporty. The leather interiors were far superior in quality than the Lexus . Please advice me in making a decision . What would help me is '+'s and '-' for both sedans if any.. Thanks in advance. Sincerely Soumi
I read some TSBs about hard starting on the VQ engines recently...one particular TSB described a situation in which the car would almost never start, or would have to be cranked a few times before it actually started. In that situation, the TSB said there were carbon deposits building up, and there was a fix available. However, if the situation is related to cold weather, a TSB detailed some guidelines to make the start easier, by depressing the accelerator about 1/3 of the way while cranking, but do not crank for more than 10 seconds. If the car does not start after 10 seconds of cranking, wait another 10 seconds before trying again. Hope this helps...
Soumi, I tested both of them and my sister has ES300 (I also considered TL). However, I picked I-30 and I just bought one a week ago. ES300 is a little bit more quite than I-30 but I-30 gives me more room and I like its interior as well as its engine performance. I only see '+' for I-30 except the steering. Comparing with my C280 Benz, I-30 steering is a little bit soft. I can give you couple big ' -' about ES300: the style is too old, Lexus is going to change it soon and it is overprice. Good luck.
I have a 2000 I30L that has a problem with the Driver's door automatically locking. Also at times when you go to open it, the door will open about an inch and hang. The rear doors of course will be unlocked during all of this. Has anyone had this problem? I took it in for service and the dealership was of no help. They said that unless it hangs up at the dealership there is nothing they could do. I have also been hearing wind noise, to which the dealership responded with no help. Any suggestions? I am quickly becoming frustrated with the dealership. Also, could I take it to a Nissan dealership to have it fixed?
There are no free sites that allow you to view the TSBs for your car. However, you CAN get free access to the TITLES of the TSBs. I found a site called www.alldata.com which allows you to acquire a one-year subscription for $20...this subscription allows you to sign up one vehicle, and access all the service-related features available on the site (one of them being the TSBs for the model). I did see a TSB about wind noises coming from multiple locations, and how to diagnose the problem and how to solve it...so you may be lucky to find some applicable info on that site. Good luck.
That was my point exactly... the TSBs are available for viewing on alldata.com. If you merely go to the site and enter your vehicle selection, it will only show you the titles of the TSBs. However, since I am having a problem with my car and wanted to find out more, I paid the 20 dollar subscription, which allows me to read each TSB pertaining to my vehicle. However, the site only allows you to view the entire TSB for the car you register for... so if you own 3 cars for example, and you wished to have access to each car's TSBs, you would end up paying 60 bucks. BTW, canadiancl, how is your CL running...I was tempted to order the TSBs for my CL also, but the website claims that Honda/Acura does not allow the site to publish their technical data for some reason! How pathetic.
I should have read your previous post more closely re: alldata. I must have just read the first line and then blacked out! I haven't put on too many miles on my CL-S. Only about 3000 km so far. But no major problem so far. Just some minor rattles & squeaks, some minor misaligned body panels. Gas mileage is a bit down since the onset of colder temperature. How's yours running?
My new I30 just hit 1,700 miles. I tested the TL and CL and picked the I30. I think the car is excellent. The ride on both highway and local streets are fine. Only problem - have to use premium gas.
c: i always noticed the misalligned body panels on the acuras also...our TL also had similar "problems." The Infiniti has perfect panels, even after two accidents from the rear. I also noticed the horrible gas mileage...seems like nobody can figure out exactly WHY this occurs in colder weather. However, no major problems with the CLS...just a weird shaking feeling when the car is idling (feels like the entire car shakes)
m: why did you prefer the I30 over the TL/CL? I thought the TL was a better choice for 2000, especially since the steering wheel is thicker, and while driving the TL, the car feels much more solid and quiet compared to the I30. I also noticed that my I30 slides around in the snow covered parking lots/roads A LOT more than the TL. Maybe its the tires?
I own an 2000 Infinite I30 and I love the car. One thing I have noticed is that when the car is in 4th gear, and I have my foot slightly on the accelerator, there is a little bit of a lugging sound, like the car needs to downshift to a lower gear. If I take the I/I off, the car does downshift and this problem does not occur. I drove my brother's car, which is the exact same car, and I did not notice this problem.
Has anyone noticed this? Any suggestions on what to do?
Just took my 2000 I30 out to play in the snow. Well, was realy going to work this am. We had a good 6 inches of fresh snow on unplowed roads this morning. I30 handled very well, the traction control worked as advertised, and the car felt very secure on the road. Windows stayed clear with the auto setting on the climate control. ABS worked well, but it did make a chatter as expected. Nothing unusual.
STEVE
ps Anyone have an answer for #420? I am the brother with the I30 that doesn't lug when going 30 MPH in 4th gear. Only diffence between the cars is that I have traction control and I added a drop in K&N air filter. Yes, you guessed it, I am the wild one!
seeing its a transmission related problem, it must be the TCM problem everyone was talking about on the maxima boards. dunno for sure...try checking out the TSBs for the I30...I know there is one for the TCM replacement. Good luck.
To Sescuderi and others who are using K & N filters: before you get carried away with these filters please read about the detrimental effects of these filters and what kind of havoc it will create in your engine. For my I30 I installed the filter at 4000 miles and removed it at 7000 miles after I read the problems that the K&N filter could create in the engine. Be sure to read http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbme/m7971.html which is posted by George Mason dated Jan. 21, 1995.
That link was a dead link; do you have any info on how it has a negative effect? (I have read that if you don't clean it correctly you can put small holes in the cotton mesh and cause more dirt to pass into the engine)
You are right, the server no longer carries this message. Fortunately, in October 2000 I did download the message. It is about a 1 page in length. I will quote it exactly as it appeared in the original form from http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbmc/m7971.html. The message from that webpage is the following:
"Subj: K & N filters To: John M. Saturday, January 21, 1995 5:14:10 Pm From: George Morrison John: If I wrote 'subjective' I meant 'objective'.. I was responsible for evaluating re-usable air filters for a major construction/mining company that had hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers to pick-up trucks and salemen's cars. This study was embarked upon due to the fact that we were spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on paper air filters. Using them one time then throwing them away. I initiated the study in that I was convinced that a K & N type filter or oiled foam would save us many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour savings, and of course engines as these would filter dirt better than paper. (yes, I had read the K&N ads and was a believer. Representative test units were chosen to give us a broad spectrum from cars right through large front end loaders. With each unit we had a long history of oil analysis records so that changes would be trackable. Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having alternative re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate large jump in silicon (dirt) levels with corresponding major increases in wear metals. In one extreme case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, the secondary (small paper element) clogged before even one day's test run could be completed. This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine that had paper/paper one bank and K&N/paper on the other bank; two completely independent induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY duplicated for each bank yet the K&N allowed so much dirt to pass through that the small filter became clogged before lunch. The same outcome occurred with oiled foams on this unit. We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost immediately but continued with service trucks, foremen's vehicles, and my own company car. Analysis results continued showing markedly increased wear rates for all the vhicles, mine included. Test concluded, switched back to paper/glass and all vehicles showed reduction back to near original levels of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with the K&N on my company car out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine. End of test. I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test was hoping that alternative filters would work as everyone was sick about pulling out a perfectly good $85 air cleaner and thowing 4 of them away each week per machine... So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an individual's long term plan for their vehicles they simply run an oil anlysis at least once to see that the K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed working in THAT APPLICATION. It depends on a person's priorities. If you want performance then indeed the K&N is the way to go but at what cost??? And no, I do not work for a paper or glass air filter manufacturing company nor do I have any affiliation with anything directly or indirectly that could benefit George Morrison as a result."
The above is the quoted message from http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbmc/m7971.html. With Morrison's compelling message I removed my K&N filter from my I30. Good luck on your engine if you are still convinced in keeping the K&N in your I30.
Ford says that the K&N filter can not be used in their cars under warranty. The mass airflow sensor will be clogged by the oil the filters require to be put on at each cleaning interval. Another reason we shouldn't use K&N filters.
Yes, I have heard these things before and had read that letter from "morrison", but I am rally not sure where the morrison letter can from and if it is real. Anyway I like the added performance, can feel a difference, and used it in my last car(95 Max) for more than 4 years without a problem. I guess I could have an oil analysis, where do you get one?
I sent a copy of the negative K&N posts and the letter from the construction company to K&N. Here is their response:
Dear customer, It is a fake. Note the date, 1995 and still going around. How do I know you ask? We DO NOT make filters for mining or construction equipment. If he used a small Honda filter on a turbo charged V12, no wonder he had problems!!! Here is the truth to it. Our filters are tested by an outside, independent laboratory. They have been proven to stop at least 99% of particles on a SAE dust test. This test uses particles in the 0 - 5 micron range and goes up to 20 microns. For comparison, a paper filter also stops 99% on the same test and the OEM minimum standard is 96%. Foam is generally the worst media with a typical efficiency rating of 75 - 85%. To get higher ratings, the foam must be more dense and therefore way more restrictive. The "tack" characteristic of a K&N allows for increase filtration without loss of flow as well. The testing procedure used is SAE J-726 using ISO Coarse Test Dust. This test is the standard of the air filter industry. The test procedure consists of flowing air through the filter at a constant rate (airflow rate is determined by the application) while feeding test dust into the air stream at a rate of 1 gram per cubic meter of air. As the filter loads with dust the pressure drop across the filter is increased to maintain the prescribed airflow rate. The test is continued until the pressure drop increases 10" H2O above the initial restriction of the clean element (in this case .78" to 10.78" H2O). At this point the test is terminated. The dirty filter element is then weighed. This weight is compared to the clean element weight to determine the total Dust Capacity. The amount of dust retained by the filter is divided by the total amount of dust fed during the test to determine the Cumulative Efficiency.
The K&N filter achieved the following results:
Dust Capacity: 305 grams
Cumulative Efficiency: 99.05 %
We got started over 30 years ago making filters for motorcycles and off road racers. The filters did so well that these guys wanted them for their cars and trucks. We started making filters for these applications and here we are today. If they did not work, we would not still be here and growing every year. We now make filters for Chrysler/Mopar, Ford Motorsports, Edelbrock, Rotax Engines, and Harley Davidson. We come as original equipment on the 2000 Ford Mustang Cobra-R. We even made the filters used in the Apache helicopters used in Desert Storm and the US Marine Corps new Osprey tilt-rotor aircraft. If they work in these conditions they will work for you. This leads me to the Ford post. The dealership may not void the warranty per Federal laws. The Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act of the Fair Trade Commission states that if a part is not covered under warranty, the consumer may use any brand they choose to. Air filters are not covered under the warranty so you are free to use any brand you choose. The real clincher is the fact that Ford carries and sells a line of our filters at the dealerships. We make the filters for Ford Motorsports and they even took out a 1 page "ad" in our catalog. In fact, we are original equipment on the 2000 Mustang Cobra-R. I find it highly unlikely Ford would endorse a product that causes problems with their vehicles. In fact, Honda and Toyota only recommend K&N filters when using aftermarket high flow filters as K&N is the only brand of filter the oil does NOT come off of. You may post any or all of this if you like, in fact, it would be appreciated. I would be interested in seeing the responses. Bottom line, the internet is opinions not facts. Don't take all you read as accurate. Thanks for writing, Rick
I'm looking at purchasing the I30 luxury with traction control, heated seats and splash guards. The dealer can add a little more wood around the dash for about 525.00 Normally it runs 620.00 Has anyone gotten a wood package from the dealer and is this a good price. BMW, I'm dealing with the folks at Motor jerks in Barring ton, IL. They are very accommodating :-)
Several months ago I went looked into purchasing a wood package for my 2000 I30. I spoke with the dealership and they informed me that they had discontinued installing wood packages because sometimes the wood would get cracked. They did refer me to local car detailing installing businesses. After much research on the internet, I found several locations that sell the OEM wood dash kits. They are as follows: http://www.salesco.com/dash/infiniti.htm ; http://www.woodtrim.com/catalog_home.cfm ; http://www.exoticwooddash.com/infiniti.htm ; There are various options to the packages and the price of course depends on your exact taste. These sites should at least be helpful in showing you where the pieces would go. This is just an option if you are interested in doing it yourself for less than half the price that the dealership can do. One other option if you don't want to install yourself, check with a local body shop and see if they will install, if so you will still be saving money by buying on the internet. Please let me know how it all turns out, since I am still trying to decide if I really want to purchase a kit or not.
I recently purchased an I30L, love the car. My only concern with it is the rear suspension. It doesn't have an independent rear suspension, and I'd noticed it on a friend's I30 as well as on one that I'd borrowed for the night from my dealer. I don't sit in the back seat of mine, but I don't doubt it happens in mine too. Going over dips in the road at moderate speeds, it seems that the rear suspension bottoms out. I guess it's normal. Anyone else experience this?
I just received a call from the service manager about my car. It seems that there is a known problem with wind noise from the rear windows on 2000 and 2001 I30's. The manufacturer is trying to come up with a solution, but as of yet there is not one. They are keeping a log of problems to determine if a recall is necessary though. If anyone has this problem, you might want to notify your dealership to be placed on the list of problem vehicles. Maybe if enough people complain the problem will be resolved.
As far as the door lock problem, they replaced a part on the driver's door but are not sure if it will resolve the problem since it is inconsistent in doing it. Guess I'll have to wait and see.
I have had two large adults in the back seat of my '00 I30t and have never bottomed out the suspension. However, the I model has a heavier suspension than the L. I've recently noticed radio (CM) static when the rear window defroster is on. I know the antenna in in the rear window too, but don't recall it happening last winter. Has anyone in the cold regions noticed this problem?
Anybody know for sure whether the 1997 Infiniti I30's have ELECTRONIC motor mounts or just silicon filled ones? I understand that the current 2000/2001 I30s have electronic motor mounts. Do the 1997s have them or no?
vtgt, that sound like a decent price. Pretty much invoice price, so it's good.
Should I fill up with premium or regular gas in the I30? If my car gets used to premium gas, pinging will occur whenever I downgrade, but if I never use premium, are there long term effects?
If I use premium every once in a while (every 4 fill-ups), will that keep it clean?
What are some things I should keep in mind to break in a new vehicle?
I haven't read the archived posts, so I don't know if this subject has come up before.
Oh yeah, the new dual floor mats to replace the old rear floor mats stink. I like the single floor mat style much more. It must be a way to cut costs for Infiniti.
Folks, I bought a 1998 I30 (loaded, blk/beige)with 25k miles(72k or 3/03 warranty) for $20850. I do not know whether the price is right or not but I love the car.. it looks/drives as new. jkr
I took my 2001 I30T to the dealer for it's first oil change (2.5k miles - switching over to Mobil 1 Syntec) and have him look at the delay in shifting from 1st gear to 2nd. I was under the impression that all he has to do was change the TCM, as I read in other posts. Well, I was wrong. He told me that I need a whole new transmission.
He stated that the solenoid (?) is gone and so is the transmission. He told me that I will be getting a new (not rebuilt) tranny with updates, that is better than the previous one. He said that he worked on a car a few days ago where he just replaced the solenoid. But in mine, he as to replace the whole trans. He also stated that I won't get the car back till mid next week.
Well, I told him that I was unhappy with the G20 loaner and wanted something else (a Q45 actually). He said he can swap the G20 loaner for an I30 loaner.
So I went back to the dealer and got a 2K I30L for the G20.
For those of you who feel that your trans is not shifting smoothly, take it back to the dealer ASAP. I believe there is a service bulletin for this.
I bought a I30T in febuary of 2000. I ended up getting the car with heated seats, cd-changer, and that was pretty much it on the options list. I walked out of the dealership thinking I had gotten a good deal. I got the car for 30,773.48 before tax and stuff. With tax license and an extended warranty ($1400), I ended up at 35,157. Did they make a fool of me ? OK now here's the sad part. The car hasn't lived up to its price. I've had it in the dealership habitually. everything from sticky and non-operational drivers side window, to an annoying humming at high speeds. ... To having the engine mounts need replacement TWICE!!! The damn transmission has a mind of its own.... it throws (very unpleasant shifting), doesn't downshift correctly etc. Quite frankly I've had it with Infiniti's service guy's BS. they've supposidly fixed my tranny, and its only getting worse. My milage has gotten horrible....and I think that's compliments of a poor tranny. I'm very frustrated and desperate for advice or help. I just hit the 10K mark. ~Please advise, or comment if you have shared my same problems. Thank You
Sorry to hear about your unlucky purchase...but if you're looking to be satisfied, you will have to keep bringing your car back to your dealer to have things looked at. At least your dealer is trying to help you with your problems by replacing parts. My dealer refuses to even order one small valve for my car, and thats not even the bulk of the problems i am experiencing. You're right, they do spit out a lot of BS, but then again, almost every auto company's tech people do that (they think they know too much sometimes). If your dealer has gotten to the point where they dont feel they can satisfy you anymore, you will probably have to take it to another dealer and hope to be lucky. Otherwise, try to take it to a good, knowledgeable third-party mechanic. Finally, if it seems like everything is failing, the vehicle may be a lemon, and well, you know where to go from there. Good luck with everything...
Djrunner and all ... I am experiencing the wind noise from the rear window(s) in my 2001 I30t as well. It seems to happen at speeds over 50mph. Are a lot of other people experiencing this? Has anyone gotten a fix from an Infiniti dealer yet? I haven't seem many posts on this board about this problem and I'm wondering whether I'm going crazy worrying about this noise or not.
At the L.A. auto show this weekend, I noticed that the EPA fuel estimates have dropped from 20/28 to 19/26 mpg (same for the Maxima). Did something happen to the gearbox ratios, or are these figures more 'realistic'. When I took my 2000 I30L in for its 15K service, I was given a 2001 I30L as a loaner. The new model is nicely improved with the steering wheel controls, but I also noticed a distinct improvement in throttle response.
I realize this topic has been discussed before, but I thought I would call my local Infiniti dealer regarding the shifting problem from 1st to 2nd gear. My car experiences the delay in shifting from 1st to 2nd when I punch the gas. Overall I think the transmission is poor on this car. At times the transmission can be "jerky" when it shifts.
So I called the dealer, and his attitude was that this was "normal". I brought up the TCM and he said that he has not heard of one problem related to the transmission of the I30. It was obvious from the start of our conversion that I was wrong and he was right, which pissed me off.
The dealership was Leith Infiniti in Releigh. Has anyone had experiences with them?
To redbaretta: I spoke with the service manager at a local Nissan dealership (different dealership than the one I am having trouble with) and he said the wind noise explanation sounded ligitamate. He told me that Nissan's policy was to log reported problems. After the same problem has been logged three times, it becomes an issue. At this point a group of service tech research the problem and try to come up with a solution. I asked him if it was possible for the wind noise problem to last for a year without being fixed and he said no. According to him, Nissan should have the issue resolved in a couple of months. If you are like me, you have to drive with the radio on all the time to keep from going nuts!!! On the last set of paper work I received for the wind noise check, I was given reference# 442433 pending. I'm not sure if this is a manufacturing reference# or not, but you can check with your dealership. My dealership did acknowledge that the 2001 I30 courtesy cars that they loan out had the wind noise problem as well. It sure is funny though that on the first time I reported the problem, the service tech couldn't hear anything!!
To ALL: Everyone should probably check their security system. It seems that if you have all four doors unlocked and you get out of the car without locking it, the security system will kick on and lock the driver's door only. This has occurred on my car as well as on one other that I personally know of. This could be a common problem. Most people always lock their doors when they get out of the car, thus the problem is not noticed, but I live in an area and work in an area that I don't have to lock the doors all the time. After speaking with the Service Manager about the recent discovery, he informed me that the security system should not be kicking on. When I stop the car and get out and shut the door, I can clearly hear a buzzing sound under the hood and then I see the security light blinking. All this occurs with the doors unlocked and he said that it was not supposed to. It might be worth checking out, because if the security has a door locking glitch there is no telling what else is wrong. The security system could fail altogether!!
Again, I have a 2001 I30L, brand new. I brought the car in for detailing (after 1.5 weeks, ~700 miles), since it wasn't presented to me clean at the time of purchase (which is fine with me, cuz an ice storm just passed). The night I brought the car back home, after backing it into the garage, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I brought it in the next morning. Initially, the service rep assumed that sensors needed adjustments for the high content level of a certain element (Sulfur?) in Texas gasoline. After waiting about 35 minutes, my car was returned. They ordered the 4 shift solenoids for the valve body.
The explanation was that too much pressure was building up in the valve body because one of the pressure driven solenoids was not triggering and shifting at the correct time. Which faulty solenoid could not be easily determined, so they're replacing the set of 4. The rep claimed that no long term effects would have occurred, but the sensors were sensitive enough to warn me early on. He claims that there is no service bulletin for this, and mine is the first instance of it he's seen.
I'm at 1000 miles now. Hope I caught it in time.
Any help on post 439? What octane level of gas do you use in your I30?
I always thought that the security system does not kick in automatically to protect us from accidentally locking our keys in the car. I park in my garage at night and don't turn the security system on and when I get back in the car in the morning, the doors are not locked. They have never locked automatically for me. Is this an option you can turn on?
I need some advice from you good folks. I am considering an 01 I30 to replace my wifes car. I like the looks and would like something not everybody has. I purchased a 01 LE Pathfinder 9,000 miles ago and really love it. Didnt want to pay the difference for the QX4. The Infiniti dealer is about 75 miles away and you have to go thru 3 million people to get there. Is that worth it? I was enjoying this forum until I started seeing the tranny problems and wind noise complaints. I was of the opinion that the Infiniti was a first class quality car and the Infiniti folks treated customers like Kings. I know the Nissan folks are great. I can not see alot of difference, so I ask your comments. Infiniti or Nissan? Thanks
Upon taking my '00 i30T to the dealer again to have some of the many problems looked at.....i was told that its time for my 10,000 mile service. I had no problem with it until the guy told me it's gonna cost me $150 dollars. !!!!
For what may i ask? they rotate tires...change oil and inspect my braks? lol give me a break.
Wondering if any of you other folks have passed the 10K marker and have had similar service....and what "if" anything you've paid for it.
Comments
Were they able to fix it, and if so, how did they do it? Any information regarding this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Good luck; you'll enjoy your new ride!
Thanks in advance.
Sincerely
Soumi
Also, could I take it to a Nissan dealership to have it fixed?
I haven't put on too many miles on my CL-S. Only about 3000 km so far. But no major problem so far. Just some minor rattles & squeaks, some minor misaligned body panels. Gas mileage is a bit down since the onset of colder temperature.
How's yours running?
m: why did you prefer the I30 over the TL/CL? I thought the TL was a better choice for 2000, especially since the steering wheel is thicker, and while driving the TL, the car feels much more solid and quiet compared to the I30. I also noticed that my I30 slides around in the snow covered parking lots/roads A LOT more than the TL. Maybe its the tires?
Has anyone noticed this? Any suggestions on what to do?
Thanks for your help,
Tony Scuderi
STEVE
ps Anyone have an answer for #420? I am the brother with the I30 that doesn't lug when going 30 MPH in 4th gear. Only diffence between the cars is that I have traction control and I added a drop in K&N air filter. Yes, you guessed it, I am the wild one!
There was a service bulletin on this site for noise coming from the rear speakers.
I'm still looking for info on my door problem as well as wind noise.
"Subj: K & N filters
To: John M. Saturday, January 21, 1995 5:14:10 Pm
From: George Morrison
John: If I wrote 'subjective' I meant 'objective'.. I was responsible for evaluating re-usable air filters for a major construction/mining company that had hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers to pick-up trucks and salemen's cars. This study was embarked upon due to the fact that we were spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on paper air filters. Using them one time then throwing them away. I initiated the study in that I was convinced that a K & N type filter or oiled foam would save us many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour savings, and of course engines as these would filter dirt better than paper. (yes, I had read the K&N ads and was a believer.
Representative test units were chosen to give us a broad spectrum from cars right through large front end loaders. With each unit we had a long history of oil analysis records so that changes would be trackable.
Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having alternative re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate large jump in silicon (dirt) levels with corresponding major increases in wear metals. In one extreme case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, the secondary (small paper element) clogged before even one day's test run could be completed. This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine that had paper/paper one bank and K&N/paper on the other bank; two completely independent induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY duplicated for each bank yet the K&N allowed so much dirt to pass through that the small filter became clogged before lunch. The same outcome occurred with oiled foams on this unit.
We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost immediately but continued with service trucks, foremen's vehicles, and my own company car. Analysis results continued showing markedly increased wear rates for all the vhicles, mine included. Test concluded, switched back to paper/glass and all vehicles showed reduction back to near original levels of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with the K&N on my company car out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine. End of test.
I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test was hoping that alternative filters would work as everyone was sick about pulling out a perfectly good $85 air cleaner and thowing 4 of them away each week per machine...
So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an individual's long term plan for their vehicles they simply run an oil anlysis at least once to see that the K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed working in THAT APPLICATION. It depends on a person's priorities. If you want performance then indeed the K&N is the way to go but at what cost???
And no, I do not work for a paper or glass air filter manufacturing company nor do I have any affiliation with anything directly or indirectly that could benefit George Morrison as a result."
The above is the quoted message from http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbmc/m7971.html. With Morrison's compelling message I removed my K&N filter from my I30. Good luck on your engine if you are still convinced in keeping the K&N in your I30.
Dear customer,
It is a fake. Note the date, 1995 and still going around. How do I
know you ask? We DO NOT make filters for mining or construction equipment.
If he used a small Honda filter on a turbo charged V12, no wonder he had
problems!!! Here is the truth to it.
Our filters are tested by an outside, independent laboratory. They
have been proven to stop at least 99% of particles on a SAE dust test. This
test uses particles in the 0 - 5 micron range and goes up to 20 microns.
For comparison, a paper filter also stops 99% on the same test and the OEM
minimum standard is 96%. Foam is generally the worst media with a typical
efficiency rating of 75 - 85%. To get higher ratings, the foam must be more
dense and therefore way more restrictive. The "tack" characteristic of a K&N
allows for increase filtration without loss of flow as well.
The testing procedure used is SAE J-726 using ISO Coarse Test Dust.
This test is the standard of the air filter industry. The test procedure
consists of flowing air through the filter at a constant rate (airflow rate
is determined by the application) while feeding test dust into the air
stream at a rate of 1 gram per cubic meter of air.
As the filter loads with dust the pressure drop across the filter is
increased to maintain the prescribed airflow rate. The test is continued
until the pressure drop increases 10" H2O above the initial restriction of
the clean element (in this case .78" to 10.78" H2O). At this point the test
is terminated. The dirty filter element is then weighed. This weight is
compared to the clean element weight to determine the total Dust Capacity.
The amount of dust retained by the filter is divided by the total amount of
dust fed during the test to determine the Cumulative Efficiency.
The K&N filter achieved the following results:
Dust Capacity: 305 grams
Cumulative Efficiency: 99.05 %
We got started over 30 years ago making filters for motorcycles and off
road racers. The filters did so well that these guys wanted them for their
cars and trucks. We started making filters for these applications and here
we are today. If they did not work, we would not still be here and growing
every year.
We now make filters for Chrysler/Mopar, Ford Motorsports, Edelbrock,
Rotax Engines, and Harley Davidson. We come as original equipment on the
2000 Ford Mustang Cobra-R. We even made the filters used in the Apache
helicopters used in Desert Storm and the US Marine Corps new Osprey
tilt-rotor aircraft. If they work in these conditions they will work for
you. This leads me to the Ford post. The dealership may not void the
warranty per Federal laws. The Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act of the Fair Trade
Commission states that if a part is not covered under warranty, the consumer
may use any brand they choose to. Air filters are not covered under the
warranty so you are free to use any brand you choose. The real clincher is
the fact that Ford carries and sells a line of our filters at the
dealerships. We make the filters for Ford Motorsports and they even took
out a 1 page "ad" in our catalog. In fact, we are original equipment on the
2000 Mustang Cobra-R. I find it highly unlikely Ford would endorse a
product that causes problems with their vehicles. In fact, Honda and Toyota
only recommend K&N filters when using aftermarket high flow filters as K&N
is the only brand of filter the oil does NOT come off of.
You may post any or all of this if you like, in fact, it would be
appreciated. I would be interested in seeing the responses. Bottom line,
the internet is opinions not facts. Don't take all you read as accurate.
Thanks for writing, Rick
> ----------
The dealer can add a little more wood around the dash for about 525.00 Normally
it runs 620.00 Has anyone gotten
a wood package from the dealer and is this a good price. BMW, I'm dealing with the folks at
Motor jerks in Barring ton, IL. They are very accommodating :-)
There are various options to the packages and the price of course depends on your exact taste. These sites should at least be helpful in showing you where the pieces would go. This is just an option if you are interested in doing it yourself for less than half the price that the dealership can do. One other option if you don't want to install yourself, check with a local body shop and see if they will install, if so you will still be saving money by buying on the internet.
Please let me know how it all turns out, since I am still trying to decide if I really want to purchase a kit or not.
As far as the door lock problem, they replaced a part on the driver's door but are not sure if it will resolve the problem since it is inconsistent in doing it. Guess I'll have to wait and see.
I've recently noticed radio (CM) static when the rear window defroster is on. I know the antenna in in the rear window too, but don't recall it happening last winter. Has anyone in the cold regions noticed this problem?
Thanks...
Should I fill up with premium or regular gas in the I30? If my car gets used to premium gas, pinging will occur whenever I downgrade, but if I never use premium, are there long term effects?
If I use premium every once in a while (every 4 fill-ups), will that keep it clean?
What are some things I should keep in mind to break in a new vehicle?
I haven't read the archived posts, so I don't know if this subject has come up before.
Oh yeah, the new dual floor mats to replace the old rear floor mats stink. I like the single floor mat style much more. It must be a way to cut costs for Infiniti.
I do not know whether the price is right or not but I love the car.. it looks/drives as new. jkr
I took my 2001 I30T to the dealer for it's first oil change (2.5k miles - switching over to Mobil 1 Syntec) and have him look at the delay in shifting from 1st gear to 2nd. I was under the impression that all he has to do was change the TCM, as I read in other posts. Well, I was wrong. He told me that I need a whole new transmission.
He stated that the solenoid (?) is gone and so is the transmission. He told me that I will be getting a new (not rebuilt) tranny with updates, that is better than the previous one. He said that he worked on a car a few days ago where he just replaced the solenoid. But in mine, he as to replace the whole trans. He also stated that I won't get the car back till mid next week.
Well, I told him that I was unhappy with the G20 loaner and wanted something else (a Q45 actually). He said he can swap the G20 loaner for an I30 loaner.
So I went back to the dealer and got a 2K I30L for the G20.
For those of you who feel that your trans is not shifting smoothly, take it back to the dealer ASAP. I believe there is a service bulletin for this.
Regards,
Maneesh
OK now here's the sad part. The car hasn't lived up to its price. I've had it in the dealership habitually. everything from sticky and non-operational drivers side window, to an annoying humming at high speeds. ... To having the engine mounts need replacement TWICE!!! The damn transmission has a mind of its own.... it throws (very unpleasant shifting), doesn't downshift correctly etc.
Quite frankly I've had it with Infiniti's service guy's BS. they've supposidly fixed my tranny, and its only getting worse. My milage has gotten horrible....and I think that's compliments of a poor tranny. I'm very frustrated and desperate for advice or help. I just hit the 10K mark.
~Please advise, or comment if you have shared my same problems. Thank You
regarding the shifting problem from 1st to 2nd gear. My car experiences the delay in shifting
from 1st to 2nd when I punch the gas. Overall I think the transmission is poor on this car. At
times the transmission can be "jerky" when it shifts.
So I called the dealer, and his attitude was that this was "normal". I brought up the TCM and
he said that he has not heard of one problem related to the transmission of the I30. It was
obvious from the start of our conversion that I was wrong and he was right, which pissed me
off.
The dealership was Leith Infiniti in Releigh. Has anyone had experiences with them?
To ALL: Everyone should probably check their security system. It seems that if you have all four doors unlocked and you get out of the car without locking it, the security system will kick on and lock the driver's door only. This has occurred on my car as well as on one other that I personally know of. This could be a common problem. Most people always lock their doors when they get out of the car, thus the problem is not noticed, but I live in an area and work in an area that I don't have to lock the doors all the time. After speaking with the Service Manager about the recent discovery, he informed me that the security system should not be kicking on. When I stop the car and get out and shut the door, I can clearly hear a buzzing sound under the hood and then I see the security light blinking. All this occurs with the doors unlocked and he said that it was not supposed to. It might be worth checking out, because if the security has a door locking glitch there is no telling what else is wrong. The security system could fail altogether!!
The explanation was that too much pressure was building up in the valve body because one of the pressure driven solenoids was not triggering and shifting at the correct time. Which faulty solenoid could not be easily determined, so they're replacing the set of 4. The rep claimed that no long term effects would have occurred, but the sensors were sensitive enough to warn me early on. He claims that there is no service bulletin for this, and mine is the first instance of it he's seen.
I'm at 1000 miles now. Hope I caught it in time.
Any help on post 439? What octane level of gas do you use in your I30?
For what may i ask? they rotate tires...change oil and inspect my braks? lol give me a break.
Wondering if any of you other folks have passed the 10K marker and have had similar service....and what "if" anything you've paid for it.
Thanx
~thatoneguy