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Comments
Were they able to fix it, and if so, how did they do it? Any information regarding this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Good luck; you'll enjoy your new ride!
Thanks in advance.
Sincerely
Soumi
Also, could I take it to a Nissan dealership to have it fixed?
I haven't put on too many miles on my CL-S. Only about 3000 km so far. But no major problem so far. Just some minor rattles & squeaks, some minor misaligned body panels. Gas mileage is a bit down since the onset of colder temperature.
How's yours running?
m: why did you prefer the I30 over the TL/CL? I thought the TL was a better choice for 2000, especially since the steering wheel is thicker, and while driving the TL, the car feels much more solid and quiet compared to the I30. I also noticed that my I30 slides around in the snow covered parking lots/roads A LOT more than the TL. Maybe its the tires?
Has anyone noticed this? Any suggestions on what to do?
Thanks for your help,
Tony Scuderi
STEVE
ps Anyone have an answer for #420? I am the brother with the I30 that doesn't lug when going 30 MPH in 4th gear. Only diffence between the cars is that I have traction control and I added a drop in K&N air filter. Yes, you guessed it, I am the wild one!
There was a service bulletin on this site for noise coming from the rear speakers.
I'm still looking for info on my door problem as well as wind noise.
"Subj: K & N filters
To: John M. Saturday, January 21, 1995 5:14:10 Pm
From: George Morrison
John: If I wrote 'subjective' I meant 'objective'.. I was responsible for evaluating re-usable air filters for a major construction/mining company that had hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers to pick-up trucks and salemen's cars. This study was embarked upon due to the fact that we were spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on paper air filters. Using them one time then throwing them away. I initiated the study in that I was convinced that a K & N type filter or oiled foam would save us many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour savings, and of course engines as these would filter dirt better than paper. (yes, I had read the K&N ads and was a believer.
Representative test units were chosen to give us a broad spectrum from cars right through large front end loaders. With each unit we had a long history of oil analysis records so that changes would be trackable.
Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having alternative re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate large jump in silicon (dirt) levels with corresponding major increases in wear metals. In one extreme case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, the secondary (small paper element) clogged before even one day's test run could be completed. This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine that had paper/paper one bank and K&N/paper on the other bank; two completely independent induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY duplicated for each bank yet the K&N allowed so much dirt to pass through that the small filter became clogged before lunch. The same outcome occurred with oiled foams on this unit.
We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost immediately but continued with service trucks, foremen's vehicles, and my own company car. Analysis results continued showing markedly increased wear rates for all the vhicles, mine included. Test concluded, switched back to paper/glass and all vehicles showed reduction back to near original levels of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with the K&N on my company car out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine. End of test.
I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test was hoping that alternative filters would work as everyone was sick about pulling out a perfectly good $85 air cleaner and thowing 4 of them away each week per machine...
So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an individual's long term plan for their vehicles they simply run an oil anlysis at least once to see that the K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed working in THAT APPLICATION. It depends on a person's priorities. If you want performance then indeed the K&N is the way to go but at what cost???
And no, I do not work for a paper or glass air filter manufacturing company nor do I have any affiliation with anything directly or indirectly that could benefit George Morrison as a result."
The above is the quoted message from http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbmc/m7971.html. With Morrison's compelling message I removed my K&N filter from my I30. Good luck on your engine if you are still convinced in keeping the K&N in your I30.
Dear customer,
It is a fake. Note the date, 1995 and still going around. How do I
know you ask? We DO NOT make filters for mining or construction equipment.
If he used a small Honda filter on a turbo charged V12, no wonder he had
problems!!! Here is the truth to it.
Our filters are tested by an outside, independent laboratory. They
have been proven to stop at least 99% of particles on a SAE dust test. This
test uses particles in the 0 - 5 micron range and goes up to 20 microns.
For comparison, a paper filter also stops 99% on the same test and the OEM
minimum standard is 96%. Foam is generally the worst media with a typical
efficiency rating of 75 - 85%. To get higher ratings, the foam must be more
dense and therefore way more restrictive. The "tack" characteristic of a K&N
allows for increase filtration without loss of flow as well.
The testing procedure used is SAE J-726 using ISO Coarse Test Dust.
This test is the standard of the air filter industry. The test procedure
consists of flowing air through the filter at a constant rate (airflow rate
is determined by the application) while feeding test dust into the air
stream at a rate of 1 gram per cubic meter of air.
As the filter loads with dust the pressure drop across the filter is
increased to maintain the prescribed airflow rate. The test is continued
until the pressure drop increases 10" H2O above the initial restriction of
the clean element (in this case .78" to 10.78" H2O). At this point the test
is terminated. The dirty filter element is then weighed. This weight is
compared to the clean element weight to determine the total Dust Capacity.
The amount of dust retained by the filter is divided by the total amount of
dust fed during the test to determine the Cumulative Efficiency.
The K&N filter achieved the following results:
Dust Capacity: 305 grams
Cumulative Efficiency: 99.05 %
We got started over 30 years ago making filters for motorcycles and off
road racers. The filters did so well that these guys wanted them for their
cars and trucks. We started making filters for these applications and here
we are today. If they did not work, we would not still be here and growing
every year.
We now make filters for Chrysler/Mopar, Ford Motorsports, Edelbrock,
Rotax Engines, and Harley Davidson. We come as original equipment on the
2000 Ford Mustang Cobra-R. We even made the filters used in the Apache
helicopters used in Desert Storm and the US Marine Corps new Osprey
tilt-rotor aircraft. If they work in these conditions they will work for
you. This leads me to the Ford post. The dealership may not void the
warranty per Federal laws. The Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act of the Fair Trade
Commission states that if a part is not covered under warranty, the consumer
may use any brand they choose to. Air filters are not covered under the
warranty so you are free to use any brand you choose. The real clincher is
the fact that Ford carries and sells a line of our filters at the
dealerships. We make the filters for Ford Motorsports and they even took
out a 1 page "ad" in our catalog. In fact, we are original equipment on the
2000 Mustang Cobra-R. I find it highly unlikely Ford would endorse a
product that causes problems with their vehicles. In fact, Honda and Toyota
only recommend K&N filters when using aftermarket high flow filters as K&N
is the only brand of filter the oil does NOT come off of.
You may post any or all of this if you like, in fact, it would be
appreciated. I would be interested in seeing the responses. Bottom line,
the internet is opinions not facts. Don't take all you read as accurate.
Thanks for writing, Rick
> ----------
The dealer can add a little more wood around the dash for about 525.00 Normally
it runs 620.00 Has anyone gotten
a wood package from the dealer and is this a good price. BMW, I'm dealing with the folks at
Motor jerks in Barring ton, IL. They are very accommodating :-)
There are various options to the packages and the price of course depends on your exact taste. These sites should at least be helpful in showing you where the pieces would go. This is just an option if you are interested in doing it yourself for less than half the price that the dealership can do. One other option if you don't want to install yourself, check with a local body shop and see if they will install, if so you will still be saving money by buying on the internet.
Please let me know how it all turns out, since I am still trying to decide if I really want to purchase a kit or not.
As far as the door lock problem, they replaced a part on the driver's door but are not sure if it will resolve the problem since it is inconsistent in doing it. Guess I'll have to wait and see.
I've recently noticed radio (CM) static when the rear window defroster is on. I know the antenna in in the rear window too, but don't recall it happening last winter. Has anyone in the cold regions noticed this problem?
Thanks...
Should I fill up with premium or regular gas in the I30? If my car gets used to premium gas, pinging will occur whenever I downgrade, but if I never use premium, are there long term effects?
If I use premium every once in a while (every 4 fill-ups), will that keep it clean?
What are some things I should keep in mind to break in a new vehicle?
I haven't read the archived posts, so I don't know if this subject has come up before.
Oh yeah, the new dual floor mats to replace the old rear floor mats stink. I like the single floor mat style much more. It must be a way to cut costs for Infiniti.
I do not know whether the price is right or not but I love the car.. it looks/drives as new. jkr
I took my 2001 I30T to the dealer for it's first oil change (2.5k miles - switching over to Mobil 1 Syntec) and have him look at the delay in shifting from 1st gear to 2nd. I was under the impression that all he has to do was change the TCM, as I read in other posts. Well, I was wrong. He told me that I need a whole new transmission.
He stated that the solenoid (?) is gone and so is the transmission. He told me that I will be getting a new (not rebuilt) tranny with updates, that is better than the previous one. He said that he worked on a car a few days ago where he just replaced the solenoid. But in mine, he as to replace the whole trans. He also stated that I won't get the car back till mid next week.
Well, I told him that I was unhappy with the G20 loaner and wanted something else (a Q45 actually). He said he can swap the G20 loaner for an I30 loaner.
So I went back to the dealer and got a 2K I30L for the G20.
For those of you who feel that your trans is not shifting smoothly, take it back to the dealer ASAP. I believe there is a service bulletin for this.
Regards,
Maneesh
OK now here's the sad part. The car hasn't lived up to its price. I've had it in the dealership habitually. everything from sticky and non-operational drivers side window, to an annoying humming at high speeds. ... To having the engine mounts need replacement TWICE!!! The damn transmission has a mind of its own.... it throws (very unpleasant shifting), doesn't downshift correctly etc.
Quite frankly I've had it with Infiniti's service guy's BS. they've supposidly fixed my tranny, and its only getting worse. My milage has gotten horrible....and I think that's compliments of a poor tranny. I'm very frustrated and desperate for advice or help. I just hit the 10K mark.
~Please advise, or comment if you have shared my same problems. Thank You
regarding the shifting problem from 1st to 2nd gear. My car experiences the delay in shifting
from 1st to 2nd when I punch the gas. Overall I think the transmission is poor on this car. At
times the transmission can be "jerky" when it shifts.
So I called the dealer, and his attitude was that this was "normal". I brought up the TCM and
he said that he has not heard of one problem related to the transmission of the I30. It was
obvious from the start of our conversion that I was wrong and he was right, which pissed me
off.
The dealership was Leith Infiniti in Releigh. Has anyone had experiences with them?
To ALL: Everyone should probably check their security system. It seems that if you have all four doors unlocked and you get out of the car without locking it, the security system will kick on and lock the driver's door only. This has occurred on my car as well as on one other that I personally know of. This could be a common problem. Most people always lock their doors when they get out of the car, thus the problem is not noticed, but I live in an area and work in an area that I don't have to lock the doors all the time. After speaking with the Service Manager about the recent discovery, he informed me that the security system should not be kicking on. When I stop the car and get out and shut the door, I can clearly hear a buzzing sound under the hood and then I see the security light blinking. All this occurs with the doors unlocked and he said that it was not supposed to. It might be worth checking out, because if the security has a door locking glitch there is no telling what else is wrong. The security system could fail altogether!!
The explanation was that too much pressure was building up in the valve body because one of the pressure driven solenoids was not triggering and shifting at the correct time. Which faulty solenoid could not be easily determined, so they're replacing the set of 4. The rep claimed that no long term effects would have occurred, but the sensors were sensitive enough to warn me early on. He claims that there is no service bulletin for this, and mine is the first instance of it he's seen.
I'm at 1000 miles now. Hope I caught it in time.
Any help on post 439? What octane level of gas do you use in your I30?
For what may i ask? they rotate tires...change oil and inspect my braks? lol give me a break.
Wondering if any of you other folks have passed the 10K marker and have had similar service....and what "if" anything you've paid for it.
Thanx
~thatoneguy